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Kay's Improved & Enlarged Edit. 



MACKENZIE'S 



FITi: THOUSAND RECEIPTS 



IN ALL THE 



Wimtnl antr B^mtuiit ^vtu: 



CONSTITUTING 



A COMPLETE PRACTICAL LIBRARY 



RELATIVE TO 



Agriculture, 

Bcos, 

Bleaching, 

Brewing, 

Calico Printing, 

Carving at Table, 

Cements, 

Confectionary, 

Cookery, 



Crayons, 

Dairy, 

Diseases, 

Distillation, 

Dying, 

Enamelling, 

Engraving, 

Farriery, 

Food, 



Gardening, 

Gilding, 

Glass, 

Health, 

Inks, &:c. 

Jewellers' Pastes, 

Lithogra,phy, 

Medicines, 

Metallurgy, 



Oil Colours, 

Oils, 

Painting, 

Pastry, 

Perfumery, 

Pickling, 

Pottery, 

Preserving, 

Scouring, 



Silk, 

Silk worms, 
Silvering, 
Tanning, 
Trees of all kinda, 
Varnishing, 
Water Colours, 
Wines, 
&c. &c. &c 



^ Ne^ American, from tije latest Eontrow IBtiitim, 

WITH NUMEROUS AND IMPORTANT ADDITIONS GENERALLY ; AND THE MEDICAL PART CAREFULT T 

REVISED AND ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE U. STATES ; AND ALSO A NEW 

AND MOST COPIOUS INDEX. 

BY AN AMERICAN PHYSICIAN. 



of Cr 



^ijCIatrcIiJljta , 






JAMES KAY, JUN. & Co. No. 4 MINOR STltor.VVashi'^fi^^ 

31Jitt6l)ur3 : 

JOHN I. KAY & Co. No. 51 1\IARI^T STREET. 



1831. 






-T) 



>'^;^^^ 



pastern District of Pennsylvania, to wit 

BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-fifth day of September, in the fifty-third year of the In- 
dependence of the United States of America, A. D. 1829, James Kay, Jr. & Co. of the said District, have 
deposited in this oiEce the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the words following, 
to wit : 

" Mackenzie's Five Thousand Receipts in all the useful and domestic arts : constituting a complete practical 
library relative to agriculture, bees, bleaching, brewing, calico printing, carving at table, cements, confec- 
tionary, cookery, crayons, dairy, diseases, distillation, dying, enamelling, engraving, farriery, food, garden- 
ing, gilding, glass, health, inks, &c. jeweller's pastes, Uthography, medicines, metallurgy, oil colours, oils, 
painting, pastry, perfumery, pickling, pottery, preserving, scouring, silk, silk worms, silvering, tanning, trees 
of all kinds, varnishing, water colours, wines, &c. &c. &c. Fourth American, from the latest London 
edition. With numerous and important additions generally ; and the medical part carefully revised and 
adapted to the chmate of the U. States ; and also a new and most copious Index. By an American Physician."' 

In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled " An Act for the Encouragement 
of Learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such 
copies, during the times therein mentioned;" and also to an Act, entitled, "An Act Supplementary to an 
Act, entitled 'An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, 
to the authors and pr-oprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned,' and extending the benetita 
thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching, historical and other prints." 

D. CALDWELL, 
Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsijlvania. 



PREFACE 



TO THE LATEST LONDON EDITION. 



As the object of all study, and the 
end of all wisdom, is practical utility, 
so a collection of the most approved Re- 
ceipts, in all the arts of Domestic and 
Social Life, may be considered as a 
volume containing nearly the whole of 
the wisdom of man, worthy of preserva- 
tion. In truth, the present volume has 
been compiled under the feeling, that if 
all other books of Science in the world 
were destroyed, this single volume would 
be found to embody the results of the 
useful experience, observations, and 
discoveries of mankind during the past 
ages of the world. 

Theoretical reasonings and historical 
details have, of course, been avoided, 
and tlie object of the compiler has been 
to economise his space, and come at 
once to tlie point. Whatever men do, 
or desire to do, with the materials with 
which nature has supplied them, and 
with the powers which they possess, is 
here plainly taught and succinctly pre- 
served; whether it regard complicated 
manufactures, means of curing diseases, 
simple processes of various kinds, or the 
economy, happiness, and preservation of 
life. 

The best authorities have been re- 
sorted to, and innumerable volumes con- 
sulted, and wherever different processes 
of apparently equal value, for attaining 
the same end, have been found, they 
have been introduced. 

Among the works consulted have been, 

The Monthly Magazine, 56 vols. 
The Repertory of Arts and Sciences, 60 vols. 
The London Journal of Arts and Sciences. 
The Transactions of the Society of Arts, 30 vols. 
The Magazine of Trade and Manufactures, 6 

vols. 
The Gazette of Health, 9 vols. 
The Series of the Horticultural Society, 5 vols. 



The Series of the Agricultural Society, 30 vols, 

The Farmer's Magazine, 16 vols. 

Young's Farmer's Calendar. 

LouDo.v on Gardening, 1 vol. 

Jennings's Domestic Cyclopasdia, 2 vols. 

TiNGREY on Varnishing. 

RicHARnsoN on the Metallic Arts. 

Thomas's Practice of Physic. 

Cooper's Dictionary of Surgery. 

Thornton's British Herbal. 

Waller's Ditto. 

Imison's School of Arts. 

Handmaid to tlie Arts. 

Smith's Laboratory of the Arts. 

Hamilton on Drawing. 

The Editor's Thousand Experiments in Ma 

nufactures and Chemistry. 
Davy's Agricultural Cliemistry. 
Henry's Elements of Chemistry, 
Chaptal's Chemistry applied to the Arts. 
Gregory's Cyclopasdia. 
The English and other Cyclopaedias. 

Besides innumerable treatises on spe- 
cial subjects, minor journals, and a great 
variety of manuscript communications 
from friends and connexions of the edi- 
tor and publisher. 

A general, rather tlian a scientific, 
arrangement has been adopted, because 
the object of the work is popular and 
universal, and, though likely to be use- 
ful to men of science, it is more espe- 
cially addressed to the public at large. 
In like manner, as far as possible, tech- 
nical and scientific language has been 
avoided, and popular names and simple 
descriptions have been preferred. 

Every care has been taken in the print- 
ing to avoid errors in quantities, as well 
as to select the best receipts of each 
kind J but notices of errors, omissions, 
or experimental improvements, will be 
tliankfully received by the publisher, for 
the use of future editions. 

The Index will render it easy to refer 
to. every article of importance. 



PREFACE 



TO THE FOURTH AMERICAN EDITION. 



In fulfilling the duty of preparing for 
the press a new and enlarged edition of 
the valuable work of Mackenzie, the 
Editor has steadily borne in mind its 
evident aim at general practical utility; 
and consequently he has submitted both 
alterations and additions to its rules. 
Wlule the former will be found but 
few, — a circumstance arising trom the 
nature of the book; the latter are both 
numerous and important, — amounting 
to about fifty pages, exclusive of those 
contained in the Miscellaneous Depart- 
ment and the Appendix. 

The IMedical part has been condensed, 
simplified, and adapted to the climate 
and diseases of the United States. A 
short, but complete manual of " Direc- 
tions for rearing the Silk Worm, and the 
Culture of the White Mulberry Tree," 
together with an extensive article on tlie 
Diseases of the Horse, may be noticed 
as among the important additions. The 
Culinary art has not been neglected — 
the numerous original receipts from 
the best modern authorities of the 
"Kitchen," for preparing various deli- ' 
cacies of the animal and vegetable kino;- 
dom, including Pastry, Puddings, &c. 
•will no doubt prove acceptable to Ame- 
rican housekeepers. The man of family, 
the Sportsman, the Artist, the Mechanic, 
and the Farmer have all been remem- 
bered. And an unusually large and 
correct Index gives every facility of re- 
ference that could be wished. 

The attention of the Reader is called 
to the "Miscellaneous Receipts." In 
this portion, which is very copious, nu- 
merous receipts have been placed, wh'ich 
could not with propriety be elsewhere 



arranged. It has also been made the 
receptacle of much valuable matter ob- 
tained from several kind female friends 
and the fruit of researches into many 
curious and rare books; and which was 
prepared at too late a period for insertion 
in the appropriate departments. The 
Appendix of " Instructions in the Art 
of Carving," with its numerous wood 
cuts, will, it is hoped, prove acceptable 
and useful to our country readers, for 
whose accommodation this work was 
originally designed. 

The Editor more especially notices 
the following works, as sources from 
which he has derived considerable as- 
sistance: The Franklin Journal; Wil- 
lich's Domestic Encyclopaedia, by Pro- 
fessor Cooper; a Tract published by the 
Pennsylvania Society for the Rearing 
of Silk Worms, &c.; and the curious 
work of Colonel Hanger, of sporting 
memory. 

In conclusion, the publishers beg leave 
to state, that neither time nor expense 
has been considered in endeavouring to 
render this edition cheaper and better 
than any other which has been published, 
and at the same time worthy of the pa- 
tronage which is solicited for it. They 
have availed themselves of tlie services 
of a gentleman as Editor, who has been 
for a considerable time engaged in the 
preparatory researches. The type, though 
small, is very legible and distinct; and 
in the selection of the paper, whilst re- 
gard has been had to the colour, it has 
been deemed of main importance that it 
should be sufficiently durable to resist the 
frequent usage into which a work of this 
description must necessarily be called. 



THE 



tV^J 



m^Am mm®mmw 



PRACTICAL LIBRARY. 



— @©©— 



ASSAYING OF 1MET.VLLK3 ORES, 

Before metallic ores are 'worked upon in the 
large way, it will be necessary to inquire wjiat 
sort of metal, and what portion of it, is to be found 
in a determinate quantity of the ore; to discover 
whether it will be worth while to extract it largely, 
and in what manner the process is to be conducted, 
so as to answer that purpose. Tlie knowledge re- 
quisite for this is called the art of assaying. 
Assay of ores in (he dry way. 

The assaying of ores may be performed either 
in the dry or moist way; the first is the most an- 
cient, and, in many respects, the most advanta- 
geous, and consequently still continues to be mostly 
used. 

Assays are made either in crucibles with the 
blast of the bellows, or in tests under a muffle. 
Assay -weifflits. 

The assay weights are always imaginary, some- 
times an ounce represents a hundred weight on the 
large scale, and is subdivided into the same num- 
ber of parts, as that hundred weight is in, the great; 
so that the contents of the ore, obtained Ijy tlie as- 
say, shall accurately determine by such relative 
proportion the quantity to be expected from any 
■weight of die ore on a larger scale. 
Roasting the ore. 

In the lotting of the ores, care should be taken 
to have small portions from different specimens, 
which should be pulverized, and well mixed in an 
Iron or brass mortar. The proper quantity of the 
ore is now taken, and if it contain either sulphur 
or arsenic, it is put into a crucible or test, and ex- 
posed to a moderate degree of heat, till no vapour 
ai'ises from it; to assist this volatilization, some 
add a small quantity of powdered charcoal. 
Flaxes. 

To assist the fusion of the ores, and to convert 
the extraneous matters connected with them into 
scoria, assayers use different kinds effluxes. The 
most usual and efficacious materials for the com- 
position of these are, borax, tartar, nitre, sal am- 
moniac, common salt, glass, fluor-spar, charcoal 
powder, pitch, lime, litliarge, kc. in difterent pro- 
portions. 

As tlie whole process of which we are speaking 
'. t- merely an experiment, made for the purpose of 
ascertaining what is tiie nature of the metal con- 
tained iu the ore, .ind tlie proportion the former 
bears to the latter; the little additional expense in- 
curred by employing animal instead of vegetable 
charcoal is not to be regarded, particularly, when 
the increased fusibility of the ore, occasioned there- 
by, is considered. For the mode of preparing it 
Bee charcoal, article dentifrice. 



Crude or ivhitefniT. 

Tliis consists of 1 part of nitre, and 2 of tartar, 
well mixed together. 

Black Jinx. 

The above crude flux detonates hy means of 
kindled charcoal, and if the detonation be effected 
in a mortar slightly covered, the smoke that rises 
unites with the alkalized nitre and the tartiu', and 
renders it black. 

Cornish reducing Jlux. 

Mix well together 10 ounces of tartar, 3 ounces 
and 6 drachms of niti-e, and 3 ounces and 1 drachm 
of borax, 

Cornish reining Jlux. 

Deflagrate, and afterwards pulverize, 2 parts of 
nitre, and 1 part of tartar. 

The above fluxes answer tlie purpose very well, 
provided the ores be deprived of all their sulphur; 
or, if they contain much earthy mattei's, because, 
in the latter case, they unite with them, and con- 
vert them into a tliin glass: but if any quantity of 
sulphur remain, these fluxes unite with it, and 
form a liver of sulphur, which has the power of 
destroying a portion of all the metals; consequent- 
ly, the assay under such circumstances must be 
very inaccurate. The principal difficulty in assay- 
ing appears to be in the appropriation of the pro- 
per fluxes to each particular ore, and it likewise 
appears, that such a discriminating knowledge can 
only be acquired from an extensive practice, or 
from a knowledge of the chemical affinities and 
actions of difterent bodies upon each otlu:r. 

In assaying, we are at liberty to use the most 
expensive materials to effect our purpose, hence 
the use of difterent saline fluxes, but in the work- 
ing at large, such expensive means cannot be ap- 
plied; as by such processes the inferior inetals 
would be too much enhanced in value, especially 
in working very poor ores. In consequence of which, 
in smelting works, where the object is the produc- 
tion of metals in the great way, cheaper additions 
are used; such as lime-stone, feldt-spar, fluor-spar, 
quartz, sand, slate, and slags. 'I'liese are to be 
ciioseu according to the different views of the ope- 
rator, and the nature of the ores. Thus iron ores, 
on account of the argillaceous earth they contain, 
require calcareous additions, and the coppei ores, 
rather slags or vitresoent stones, than calcareous 
earth. 

Humid assay of metallic ores. 

The mode of assaying" ores for their particular 
metals by the dry way, is deficient so far as relates 
to pointing out the different substances connected 
with theni, because they are always desU'oyed by 
tlie process for obtaining the assay metal. The as- 
say by tlie moist way is more wrrect, because the 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



different substances can be accurately ascertained. 
The late celebrated Bergmai\n first conimunicHted 
this method. It depends upon a kno\vle(l£;e of the 
chemical affinities otdifFerent bodies for each other; 
and must be varied according to the nature of the 
ore; it is very extensive in ils application, and re- 
quires sjreat patience and ad<lress in its execution. 
T(J describe the treatment of each variety of me- 
tallic ores would take up too much of our room; 
but to give a general idea, we shall describe the 
procedure, both in the dry and tlie humid way, on 
one species of all the different ores. 
To assail iron ores. 
The ore must be roasted till the v.tpour ceases 
to arise. Take (! assay quintals of it, and triturate 
them with one of fluor-spar, ^ of a quintal of ])0w- 
dered charcoal, and 4 quintals of decrepitated sea 
salt; th'fs mixture is to be put into a crucible, lined 
on the inside with clay and powdere'i e'ha.-ccal; a 
cover must te luted upon the cruciriie, and the 
crucible itself exposed to a violent fire for an hour, 
and when it is cool, broken. When, if the opera- 
tion has been well conducted, the iron will be found 
at the bottom of the crucible; to which must be 
added those metallic particles, which mav adhere 
to the scoria. The metallic particles so adhering 
may be separated, by pulverizing it in paper, and 
then attracting them with a raagn.-t. 

Another mode. — If the ore should be in a calci- 
form slate, mixed with earths, the roasting of it 
previous to assaying, if not detrimental, is at least 
superfluous; if the earths should be of the argilla- 
ceous and siliceous kind, to half a quintal of them, 
add of dry quick lime and fluor-spar of each 1 quin- 
tal and ^, reduced to powder, and mix lliem with 
■^ of a quintal of ])owdered charcoal, covering the 
vhole with one ounce of decrepitated common salt; 
and expose the luted crucible to a strong forge fire 
for an hour and a quarter, then let it gradually cool, 
and let the regulus be struck otf and weighed. 

Another. — If the ore contain calcareous earth, 
there will be no occasion to add quick lime; the 
proportion of the ingredients maj' be as follows: — 
viz. I assay quintal of the ore; 1 of decrepitated 
sea-.salt; ^ of powdered charcoal; and 1 of fluor- 
spar, and the process conducted as above. 

There is a great difference in the reguli of iron; 
•when the colo regulus is struck with a hammer and 
breaks, the iron is called cold short: if it break on 
being struck red-hot, it is called red short:. but if 
it resist the hammer, both in its cold and ignited 
state, it is good iron. 

Humid assay of iron ore. 
To ass.iy the calciforni ores, which do not con- 
tain much earthy or stony matter, they must be re- 
duced to a fine powder, and dissolvedin the marine 
acid, and precipitated by the Prussian alkali. A 
determinate quantity of the Prussian alkali must 
be tried previously, to ascertain the portion of iron 
ivhich It will ])recipitate, and the estimate made 
accordingly. If the iron contains any considerable 
portion of zinc or manganese, the precipitate must 
be calcined to redness, and the calx treated willi 
dephlogisticated nitrous acid, which will tlien take 
up only the calx of zinc; when this is separated, 
the calx should again be treated either with nitrous 
acid, with the addition of sugar, or with the acetous 
acid, which will dissolve the manganese, if any; 
the remaining calx of iron may then be dissolved 
by the marine acid, and precipitated by the mine- 
ral alkali ; or it may be tki-ther calcined, and then 
Weighed. 

Zinc ores. 

Take the assay weigiit of roasted ore, and mix 

it well with l-8th part of charcoal dust, put it into 

a strong luted earthen retort, to which must be 

fitted a receiver; place the retort in a furnace, and 



raise the fire, and continue it in a Violent heat for 
two hours, surter it then to cool gradually, and the 
zinc will be found adhering to the neck of the re- 
tort in its metallic form. 

In the humid -way. 
Distil vitriolic acid over calamine to dryness; the 
residuum must be lixiviated in hot water; whatre- 
j mains undissolved is siliceous earth; to the solu- 
tion add caustic volatile alkali, which precipitates 
the iron an<l argil, but keeps the zinc in solution. 
The precipitate must be redissolved in vitriolic 
acid, an(>the iron and argil separated. 
Tin ores. 

^lix a quintal of tin ore, previously washed, pul- 
verized, and roasted, till no arsenical vapour arises, 
with h^df a (|uintal of calcined borax, and the same 
quantity of pulverized ])itch: these are to be put in 
a crucible moistened with, ciiarcoal-dust and water, 
and tlie crucible placed in an air-furnace. After 
the pitch is burnt, give a violent heat for a ^ of an 
hoiu", and on withdrawing the crucible, the regulus 
will be found at the bottom. It the ore be not well 
washed from earthv matters, a larger quantity of 
borax will be requisite, with some powdered glass; 
and if the ore contain iron, some alkaline salt may 
be added. 

In the Jatmid way. 

Theassay of tin ores in the liquid way was looked 
upon as impracticable, till Bergmann devised the 
following method, which is generally successful. 
Let the tin ore be well separated from its stony 
matrix, by well washing, an<l then reduced to the 
most subtle powder; digest it in concentrated oil 
of vitriol, in a strong heat for several hours, then, 
when cooled, add a small portion of concentrated 
marine acid, and suffer it to stand for an hour or 
two; then add water, and when the solution is clear, 
pour it ofl^', and precipitate it by fixed alkali — 131 
grains of this precipitate, well washed and dried, 
are equivalent to 100 of tin in its reguline state, if 
the precipitate consist of pure tin; but if it contain 
copper or iron, it must be c.dcined in a red heat 
for an hour, and then digested in nitrous acid, 
which will take up the copper; and afterwards in 
marine acid, which will separate the iron. 
Lead ores. 

As most of the lead ores contain either sulphur 
or arsenic, they require to be well roasted. Take 
a quintal of roasted ore, with the same quantity of 
calcined borax, h a ([uintal of fine powdered glass, 
a ;|^ of a quintal of i)ilch, and as much clean iron 
filings. Line the crucible with wetted charcoal 
dust, and put the mixture into the crucible, and 
place it before the bellows of a fnrge-fire. When 
it is red hot, raise the fire for 15 or '20 minutes, . 
then withdraw the crucible, and break it when 
cold. 

In the humid luay. 

Dissolve the ore by boiling it in dilute nitrous 
acid: the sulphur, insoluble stony parts, awd calx 
of iron will remain. The iron may be separated by 
digestion in the marine acid, and the sulphur by 
digestlon in caustic fixed alkali. The nitrous solu- 
tion contains the lead and silver, which should be 
precipitated by the mineral fixed alkali, and the 
precipitate well washed in cold water, dried, and 
weighed. Digest it In caustic volatile alkali, which 
Will take up tlie calx of sliver; the residuum, being 
again dried and weighed, gives the proportion of 
the calx of lead, 13'2 grains of which are equal to 
100 of lead in Its metallic state. The difterence 
of M'eight of the precipitate before and after the 
application of the volatile alkali, gives the quan- 
tity of silver, 12'J grains of which are equal to 100 
i of silver in ils metallic state. 

Copper ores. 

Take an exact troy ounce of tlic ore, previously 



METALLURGY. 



pulverized, and calcine it well* stir it all the tiilne 
■with an iron rod, without removing it from the 
crucible; after the calcination add an equal quan- 
tity of borax, half the quantity of fusible glass, one- 
fourth the quantity ot ])itch, and a little charcoal 
dust; rub the inner surface of the crucible with a 
paste composed of cliarcoal-dust, a little fine pow- 
dered clay, and water. Cover the mass with com- 
mon salt, and put a lid upon the crucible, which is 
to be placed in a furnace: the fire is to be raised 
gradually, till it burns briskly, and the crucible 
continued in it for half an hour, stirring the metal 
frequently with an iron rod, and when the scoria 
•which adfieres to the rod appears clear, then the 
crucible must be taken out, ;ind suffered to cool; 
after whicli it must be broken, and Uie regidus 
separated and weighed; this is called black copper, 
to refine which, equal parts of common salt and 
nitre are to be well mixed together. The black 
copper is brought into fusion, and a tea-spoonful of 
the flux is thrown upon it, which is repeated three 
or four limes, when the metal is poured into an 
ingot mould, and the button is found to be fine 
copper. 

Jn the Immid -way. 

Make a solution of vitreous copper ore, in 5 
times its weight of concentrated vitriolic acid, and 
boil it to dryness; add as mucli water as will dis- 
solve the vitriol thus formed; to this solution add 
a clean bar of iron, which will precipitate the whole 
of the copper in its metallic form. If the solution 
be contammated with iron, the copper must be re- 
dissolved in the same manner, and precipitated 
again. The sulphur may be separated by filtration. 

Copper, precipitated from its solutions by any 
agent whatever, is always in the state of a fiue 
loose powder. A solid malleable mass of it how- 
ever may be cLt&iiied in the humid way, hy ex- 
posing sohuions of the sulphate, obtained from the 
calcination of copper with sulphur, to the air, in 
tubs. After a certain period, buttons of the pilre 
metal, equ'.-l in specific gravity to fused copper, will 
be found deposited on the sides of the vessel. 
Jiismulh ores. 

If the ore be mineralized by snlpliur, or sulphur 
and iron, a previous roasting will be necessary. 
The strong ores require no roasting, but only to be 
reduced to a fine powder. Take the assay weight 
and mix it with half the quantity of calcined borax, 
and the same of pounded glass; line the crucible 
■with charcoal; melt it as quickly as possible; and 
vhen well done, take out the crucible, and let it 
cool gradually. The regulus will be found at the 
bottom. 

Jn the htimicl ivay. 

Bismuth is easily soluble in ni«:rousacid or aqua 
regia. Its solution is colourless, and is precipitable 
by the addition of pure water; 118 grains of the 
precipitate from nitrous acid, well washed and 
dried, are equal to 100 of bismuth iu its metallic 
form. 

Jlntimonial ores. 

Take a common crucible, bore a number of small 
holes in the bottom, and place it in another cruci- 
ble a size smaller, luting them well together; then 
put the proper quantity of ore in small lumps into 
the upper crucible, and lute thereon a cover; jdace 
these vessels on a hearth, and surround thtm with 
stones about six inches distant from them; the in- 
termediate sj)ace must be filled with ashes, so that 
the undermost crucible may be covered with them; 
but upon the upper, charcoal must be laid, and the 
■whole made red hot by llie assistance of hand bel- 
lows. The antimony beiu"; of easy fusion is 
separated, and runs through tlie holes of the upper 
Vessel into the inferior one, where it is collected. 
Hainid assay of arsetiiated antimrmy. 

Dissolve Uie ore iu aqua regia, both the regulus 



and arsenic remain in the solution, the sulphur is 
separated by filtration. If the solution be boiled 
with twice its weight of strong nitrous acid, the 
regulus of antimony will be precipitated, and the 
arsenic converted into an acid, which may be ob- 
tasned by evaporation to dryness. 
Manganese ores. 

The regulus is obtained hy mixing the calx or 
ore of manganese with pitch, makingit into aball,* 
and putting it into a crucible, lined with powdered 
charcoal, 1-lOth of an inch on the sides, and ^ of 
an inch at bottom, then filling the emptj' space 
with charcoal dust, covering the crucible with an- 
other inverted and luted on, and exposing it to the 
strongest heat of a forge for an hour or more. 
In the humid -way. 

The ores should be first well roasted to deplilo- 
gisticate the calx of manganese and iron, if any, 
and then treated with nitrous acid to dissolve the 
earths. The residuum should now be treated with 
nitrous acid and sugar, by which means a colour- 
less solution of manganese will' be obtained, and 
likewise of the iron, if any. Precipitate with the 
Prussian alkali, and digest the precipitate in pure 
water; the prussiate of manganese will be dissolved,, 
whilst the prussiate of iron will remain undissolved. 
Arsenical ores. 

This assay is made by sublimation in close ves- 
sels. Beat the ore into small pieces, and put them 
into a matrass, which place in a sand pot, with a 
proper degree of heat: the arsenic sublimes in this 
operation, and adheres to the upper part of the 
vessel; when it must be carefully collected with a 
view to ascertain its weight. Sometimes a single 
sublimation will not be sufficient, for the arsenic 
in many cases will melt with the ore, and prevent 
its total volatilization; in which case, it is better 
to ])erform the first sublimation with a moderate 
heat, and afterwards bruise the remainder again, 
and expose it to a stronger heat. 
In the humid way. 

Digest the ore iu marine acid, adding the nitrous 
hy degrees to help the solution. The sulphur will 
be found on the filter; the arsenic will remain in 
the solution, and may be precipitated in its metal- 
lic form by zinc, adding spirit of wine to the solu- 
tion. 

J^'ickel ore. 

The ores must be well roasted to expel the sul- 
phur and arsenic; the greener the calx proves du- 
ring this torrefaction, the more it abounds in the 
nickel; but the redder it is, the more iron it con- 
tains. The proper quantity of this roasted ore is 
fused iu an open crucible, with twice or thrice its 
weight of black flux, and the whole covered with 
common salt. By exposing the crucrble to the 
strongest heat of a forge fire, and making the fusion 
complete, a regulus will be produced. This regu- 
lus is not pure, but contains a portion of arsenic, 
cobalt, and iron. Of the first it may be deprived 
by a fresh calcination, with the addition of pow- 
dered charcoal; and of the second by scorification; 
but it is with difiiculty that it is entirely freed from 
the iron. 

In the humid way. 

By solution in nitrous acid, it is freed from its 
sulphur; and by adding water to the solution, bis- 
muth, if any, may be precip'tated; as may silver, 
if contained in it, by the marine acid; and copper, 
when any, by iron. 

To separate cobalt from nickel, when the cobalt 
is in considerable quantity, drop a saturated solu- 
tion of the roasted ore in nitrous acid into liquid 
volatile alkali; the cobaltic part is instantly redis- 
solved, and assumes a garnet colour; when filtered, 
a grey powder remains on the filter, which is the 
nickel. The cobalt may be precipitated from the 
volatile alkali by any acid. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Cobalt ores. 
Free them as mucli as ])ossible from earthy mat- 
ters by woU washiii!;;, ami from sulphur aiitl arsenic 
by roasting. The ore thus prepared is to be mixed 
M'ith tUre« parts of black flux, and a little decrepi- 
tated sea-salt; ]iut the mixture in a lined crucible, 
cover it, and place it in a foi'c;e fire, or in a hot 
furnace, for this ore is very difficult of fusion. 

When Avell fused, a metallic regulus uill be 
found at the bottom, covered with a scoria of a 
Jeep blue colour: as almost all cobalt ores con- 
tain bismuth, this is reduced by the sa.ne opera- 
tion as the regulus of cobalt; but as they are inca- 
pable of chemically uniting together, they are 
always found distinct from each other in the cruci- 
lle. The regulus of bismuth, having a greater 
specific gravity, is always at tlie bottom, and may 
be separated by a blow with a hammer. 
In the: humid way. 

!Make a solution of the ore in nitrous acidj or 
aqua regia, and evaporate to dryness; the residuum, 
treated with the ncetous acid, will yield to it the 
col)altic part; the arsenic should be first precipi- 
ittted by the addition of water. 

JMerciirial ores. 

The calciform ores of mercury are easily reduced 
V'idiout any addition. A quintal of the ore is put 
into a retort, and a receiver luted on, containing 
some water; the retort is placed in a sand batli, and 
a sufficient degree of heat given it, to force over 
the mercury wliich is condensed in the water of the 
receiver. 

Sulphuretted mercurial ores. 

The sulphurous ores are assayed by distillation 
in the manner above, only these ores require an 
equal weight of clean iron'filings to be mixed with 
them, to disengage the sulphur, while the heat 
volatilizes the mercury, and forces it into the re- 
ceiver. These ores should likewise be tried for 
cinnabar, to know whether it will answer the pur- 
pose of extracting it from them'; for tbis a deter- 
minate quantity of the ore is finely powdered and 
put into a glass vessel, which is exposed to a gen- 
tle heat at first, and gradually increased till nothing 
more is sublimed. Uy the quantity thus acquired, 
a judgment may be formed whuther the process 
V'ill answer. Sometimes this ciimabar is not of so 
lively a colour as that which is used in trade; in 
this case it maybe refined by a second sublimation, 
and if it be still of too dark a colour, it may be 
brightened by the adilition of a quantity of mercury, 
and Subliming it again. 

Humid assay of cinnabar. 

The stony matrix should be dissolved in nitrous 
acid, and the cinnabar being disengaged, should be 
boiled in 8 or 10 times its weight of aqua regia, 
composed of3 parts O'f nitrous, and 1 of marine acid. 
The mercury may be precipitated in its running 
form by zinc. 

Silver ores. 

Take the assay quantity of the ore finely pow- 
dered, and roast it well in a proper degree of heat, 
frequently stirring it with an iron rod; then add to 
it about double the quantity of granulated lead, put 
it in a covered crucible, and place it in a furnace; 
raise the fire gently at first, and continue to in- 
crease it gradually, till the metal begins to work; 
if it should appear too thick, make it thinner bv 
the addition of a little more lead; if the metal 
should boil too rapidly, the fii-e should be diminish- 
ed. The surface will be covered by degrees with 
a mass of scoria, at which time tlie metal should be 
carefully stirred with an iron hook heated, espe- 
cially towards the border, lest any of the ore should 
remain undissolved; and if what is adherent to tbe 
hook when raised from the crucible melts quickly 
Dgain, and the extremity of the hook, after it is 



grown coJd is covered with a thin, shining, smooth 
crust, the scorification is perfect; but, on the con- 
trary, if while stirringit, any considerable clammi- 
ness is perceived in the scoria, and when it adheres 
to the hook, though red hot, and appears unequally 
tinged, and seems dusty or rough, wiili grains in- 
terspersed here and there, the scorification is in- 
complete; in consequence of which the fire should 
be increased a little, and what adheres to the hook 
should be gently beaten ofi", and returned with a 
small ladle into the crucible again. When the 
scorification is perfect, the metal should be powed 
into a cone, previously rubbed with a little tallow, 
and when it becomes cold, the scoria may be sepa- 
rated by a few strokes of a hammer. The buttoa 
is the produce of the assay. 

By cvpdiation. 

Take the assay quantity of ore, roast and grind 
i' with an equal portion of litliarge, divide it into 
2 or 3 parts, and wrap each up in a small juece of 
paper; put a cupel previoush- seasoned under a 
muffle, with about six times the quantity of lead 
upon it. When the lead begins to work, carefully 
put one of the papers upon it, and after this is ab- 
sorbed, put on a second, and so on till the wh.ole 
quantity is introduced; then raise the fire, and aa 
tiie scoria is formed, it will be taken up by the 
cupel, and at last <he silver will remain alone. 
This will be the produce of the assay, unless the 
lead contains a small portion of silver, which may 
be discovered by putting an equal quantity of the 
same lead on another cupel, and working it off at 
the same time; if any silver be produced it must 
be deducted from the assay. This is called tbe 
witness. 

In the humid -vaj/, 

l?oil vitreous silver ore in dilute nitrons acid, 
using aljout 25 times its weight, until the sulphur 
is (|uite exliausted. The silver may be precipitat- 
ed from the solution by marine acid, or common 
.salt; 100 grains of this precipitate contain 75 of 
real silver; if it contain any gold it will remain un- 
dissolved. Fixed alkalies precipitate the earthy 
matters, and the Prussian alkali will show if any 
other metal be contained in the solution. 
7'o assay the value of silver. 

The general method of examining the purity of 
silver is by mixing it with a quantity of lead pro-- 
portionate to the supposed portion of alloy; by test- 
ing this mixture, and afterAvards weighing tlie 
remaining button of silver. This is the same 
process as refining silver by cupellation. 

It is supposed that the mass of silver to be exa- 
mined, consists of 12 equal parts, called penny- 
weights; so that if an ingot weighs an ounce, each 
of the parts will be 1-I2th of an ounce. Hence, if 
the mass of silver be pure, it is called silver of 12 
jienny-weights; if it contain l-l'2th of its weight of 
alloy, it is called .silver of 11 penny-weiglits; if 2- 
rC'.hs of its weight be alloy, it is called silver of 
10 penny-weights; which parts of pure silver are 
called 5 penny-weights. It must be observed here, 
that assayers give tl.\e name penny-weight to a 
weight equal to 24 real grains, which must not be 
confounded with their ideal weights. The assayers' 
grains ■»re called fine grains. An ingot of Sue sil- 
vei-, or silver of 12 penny-weights, contains, then, 
288 fine grains; if this ingot contain l-288th of al- 
loy, it is said to be silver of 11 penny-weights and 
23 grains; if it contain 4-2S8ihs of alloy, it is said 
to be 11 penny-weights, 20 grains, Sec. Now a 
certain re.al weight must be taken to represent tbe 
assay- weights: Rir instance, 36 real gi'ains repi-c- 
sent 12 fine penny-weights; this is subdivided into 
a sufficient number of other smaller weights, which 
also represent fractions of fine penny-weights and 
grains. Thus, 18 real grains represent 6 tiae peu. 



METALLUHGY. 



9 



8 to 9 
12 to 1.3 




13 to 14 

14 to 15 


>y 


Oto 16 


H--" 
9 


to 20 





ny-weights; 3 real grains represent 1 fine peiiny- 
weiglit, or '24 grains; a real grain and a.lialireijre- 
sent 12 fine grains; l-32d ol'a real grain represents 
a quarter of a !ine grain, which is only l-7o2iI part 
of a mass of 12 penny-weights. 

Double assatf of silver. 

It is custoniaiy to make a double assay. The 

silver for the assay should be taken from opposite 

Bides of t!ie ingot, and tried on a touch stone. As- 

sayers know pietty nearly tlie value of silver- merely 

by the look of the ingot, and still better by the test 

of the touch stone. The quantity of lead to be 

added is reguhited by the portion of alloy, wiiich 

being in general copper, will be nearly as follows: 

Of silver 

dwt. a;r. dwt.gr. Requires from 

r 11 "6 to 5 to 6"] -a 

12 to ■ " 

19 18 to 9 
;<( 8 6 to 7 12 
6 18 to 6 
3 to 1 12 
^ 1 12 to 18 
The cupel must be heated red hot for half an 
hour before any metal is ))Ut upon it, by which all 
moisture is expelled. When tile cupel is almost 
vhite by heat, the lead is [jUt into it, and the lire 
increased till the lead becomes red hot, smoking, 
and agitated by a motion of all its parts, called its 
circulation. Then the silver is to be put on the 
cupel, and the fire continued till the silver has en- 
tered the lead; and when the mass circulates well, 
the heat must be diminished by closing more or 
less the door of the assay furnace. The heat .^honld 
be so regulated, tlrat the metal on its surface may 
appear convex and ardent, while the cupel is less 
red; that the smoke shall rise to the roof of the 
muffle; that undulations shall be made in all direc- 
tions; aud that the middle of the metal shall appear 
smooth, with a small circle of litharge, which is 
continually imbibed by the cupel. By this tre.it- 
nient the lead and alloy will be entirely aosorbed 
Ly the cujjel, and the silver become bright and 
shining, when it is said to lighten; after which, if 
the operation has been well performed, the silver 
Mill be covered with rainbow colours, which quick- 
ly undulate and cross each other, and then the but- 
ton becomes fixed and solid. 

The dimiuutio.i of weight shows the quantity of 
alloy. As all lead contains a small portion ot sil- 
ver, an equal weight with that used in the assay is 
teste<l oft', aiid the product deducted from the assay- 
weight. This portion is called the ^V1T^'E8S. — Ri- 
chardson's Metallic Arts. 

Ores and earths containing gold. 
That which is now most generally used is by 
amalgamation, the pro])er quantity is taken and 
reduced to a powder; about one-lenlh of its weight 
of pure quicksilver is added, and the whole tritu- 
rated in au iron mortar. The attraction subsisting 
between the gold and quicksilver, quickly unites 
them in the form of an amalgam, which is pressed 
through shamoy leather; the gold is easily sejja- 
rated from tiiis amalgam, by exposure to a proper 
degree of heat, which evaporates the quicksilver, 
and leaves the gold. This evaporation should be 
made with luted vessels. 

This is the foundation of all the operations by 
■which gold is obtained from the rich mines of Peru, 
in Spanish America. 

Another method. — Take a quantity of the gold 
Band and heat it red hot, quench it in water; repeat 
this two or three times, and the colour of tl.j sand 
v/ill become a reddish brown. Then mix it with 
twice its weight of litharge, and revive the litharge 
into lead, by adding a small portion of charcoal- 
dust, and exposing it to a proper degree of heat; 



when the lead revives, it separates the gold from 
the sand; and tlie freeing of the gold from the lead 
must be afterwards ])erforroed by cupelh-lion. 

Another. — IJergmaim .issayed metallic ores con- 
taining gold, by mixing two parts of the ore well 
pounded and washed, with 1 and a ^ of litharge, 
and 3 of glass; covering the whole with common 
i-alt, and melting it in a smith's forge, in a covered 
crucible; he thcLi opened the crucible, put a nail 
into it, and continued to do so till tlie iron was no 
longer attacked. The lead was thus precipitated 
wliich contained the gold, and was afterwards sepa- 
rated by cupellation. 
Bnmid assaif of gold mixed ivith martial pyrites. 

Dissolve the ore in 12 times its weight of dilute 
nitrous acid, gradually added; place it in a proper 
degree of heat; this takes up the soluble parts, and 
leaves the gold untouched, with the insoluble ma- 
trix, from w hich it may be separated by aqua regia. 
The gold may be again separated from the aqua 
regia by jiouiing ether upon it; the ether takes up 
the gold, and by being burnt olf haves it in its me- 
tallic state. The solution may contain iron, cop- 
per, manganese, calcareous earth, or argil; ifitba 
evaporated to dryness, and the residuum heated to 
redness for half an hour, volatile alkali will extract 
llie copper; dephiogisticated nitrous acid the earths; 
the acetous acid the manganese; and the marine 
acid the calx of iron. The sulphur floats on the 
first solution, from which it should be separated by 
filtration. 



ALLOYS OR COMPOUND IMETALS. 

Metals, in general, will unite with each 'other by 
fusion or amalgamation, and acquire new pf-oper- 
ties. Brass is a compound of copper and zino^ and 
possesses a different colour to either of the com- 
ponent parts. 

The attraction of cohesion of the different me- 
tals which arc to form thecom])Ound must be over- 
come; accordingly, they become intimately mixed 
together. The compound is not formed by a che- 
mical union of the ])arlicles of the difterent metals, 
hut from an equable diftusion throughout each 
other, in mass. As metals fuse in different de- 
grees of heat, care should be taken not to add those 
metals which fuse easily, to others which require 
a greater degree of heat, while they are too hot; 
because the former may evaporate and leave the 
compound imperfect. Or, if they are brought into 
fusion together, it should be under a fiux to prevent 
the volatile metals from evaporating, before tlie 
union is effected. 

Or molii — Mosaic gold. 

Melt together equal parts of copper and zinc, 
at the loive^st temperature tliat ivillfuse the former; 
stir them well to produce an intimate mixture of 
the metals, and add by degrees small quantities of 
zinc; tlie alloy first assumes a yellow colour like 
brass, on adding a little more zinc it becomes pur- 
ple, and lastly perfectly white, which is tiie proper 
appearance of the desired product, when fused. 
The quantity of zinc to be used altogether, should 
be from fifty-two to fifty-five parts out of a hun- 
dred. 

Qiieen''s metal. 

INIelt together 4^ lb. of tin, ^ lb. of bismuth, ^ 
lb. of antiiiujny, and ^ lb. of lead. A very excel- 
lent alloy will be formed by using these propor- 
tions; it is used for making tea-pots and other ves- 
sels which are required to imitate silver. Tiiey 
retain their brilliancy to the last. 

Anotlier. — A very fine silver-looking metal is 
composed of 100 pounds of tin, 8 of regulus ol an- 
tiiaony, 1 of oismulh, and 4 of copper. 



10 



UNIVERSAL RECElPr BOOK. 



Tombac. 
Melt together 16 pounds of copper, 1 pound of 
tin, and 1 pound of zinc. 

Jied tombac. 
Put into a crucible 5^ pounds of copper: -when 
fused, add ^ pound of zinc: these metals will com- 
bine, forming an alio}' of q reddish colour, but pos- 
sessing more lustre than copper, and also greater 
durability. 

White tombac. 
Wlien copper is combined witi* arsenic, by melt- 
ing them togetlier in a close crucible, and covering 
the surface with muriate of soda, to prevent oxi- 
dation, a white brittle alloy is formed. 
Common peviter. 
Melt in a crucible 7 pounds of tin, and when 
fused throw in 1 pound of lead, 6 ounces of cop- 
per, and 2 ounces of zinc. Tbis combination of 
metals will form an alloy of great dm-ability and 
tenacity; also of considerable lustre. 
Best pewter. 
The best sort of pewter consists of 100 parts of 
tin, and 17 of regulus of antimony. 
Hard pinvter. 
Melt together 1'2 pounds of tin, 1 p' ,md of regu- 
lus of antimony, and 4 ounces of copper. 
Finle-key valves. 
Fuse in a crucible 4 ounces of lead and 2 ounces 
of antimony, and cast into a bar. This alloy is of 
considerable hardness and lustre, and is used by 
Hute manufacturers, (when turned into small but- 
tons in a lallie,) for making valves to stop the key- 
holes of flutes. 

Common solder. 
Put into a crucible 2 pounds of lead, and when 
melted, throw in 1 pound of tin. This alloy is that 
"■enerally known by tbe name of solder. When 
heated by a hot iron, and applied to tinned iron 
vith powdered rosin, it acts as a cement or solder; 
it is also used to join leaden pipes, &cc. 
Hard solder. 
Melt together 2 pounds of copper, and I pound 
of tin. 

Soft solder. 
Melt together 2 pounds of tin, and 1 of lead. 

Printers'' types. 
Put into a crucible 10 pounds of lead, and when 
it is in a state of fusion, throw in 2 pounds of anti- 
mony; these metals, in such proportions, form tbe 
alloy of wiiich common printing types are niaile. 
The antimony gives a hardness to tlie lead, with- 
out which the type wouhl speedily be rendered 
useless in a printing press. Ddlerent proportions 
of lead, copper, brass, .ind antimony, fretiuently 
constitute this metal. Eveiy artist has his own 
proportions, so that the same composition cannot 
be obtained from ditterent foundries; each boasts 
of the superiority of his own mixture. 

Small types and stereotype plates. 
Melt 9 pounds of lead, and throw into the cru- 
cible 2 pounds of antimony and 1 pound of bis- 
muth: these raetals will combine, forming an alloy 
of a peculiar quality, 'i'his quality is expansion 
as it cools, it is therefore well suited for the forma- 
tion of small printing types (particularly when 
many are cast together to form stereotype plates,) 
as the whole of the mould is accurately filled with 
the alloy; consequently there can be no blemish in 
the letters. If a metal or alloy liable to contract in 
cooling were to be used, tlie effect of course would 
be very different. 

Another. — The proprietors ofdifferent foundries 

adopt different compositions for stereotype plates. 

Some form an alloy of 8 parts of lead, 2 parts of 

antimony, and l-Sth part of tin. 

Mode of casting. 

For the m.inufactui-e of stereotype plates, plaster 



of Paris, of the consistence of a batter-pudding be- 
fore baking, is poured over the letter-press page, 
and worked into the interstices of the types ■with a 
brush. It is then collected from the sides by a 
slip of iron or wood, so as to lie smooth and com- 
pact. In about two minutes, the whole mass is 
hardened into a solid cake. This cake, which is 
to serve as the matrix of tb.e stereotype plate. Is 
now put upon a rack in an oven, where it under- 
goes great heat, so as to drive off sui)erfluous mois- 
ture. When ready for use, these moulds, accord- 
ing to their size, are placed in flat cast-iron pots, and 
are covered over by another piece of cast-iron jier- 
forated at each end, to admit the metallic compo- 
sition intended for tlie preparation of the stereot\ ])e 
jilates. Tbe flat cast-iron pnts are now fastened 
in a crane, which carries them steadily to the me- 
tallic-bath, or melting pot, wliere they are immers- 
ed and ke])t for a considerable time, until all the 
pores and crevices of the moidd are completely 
and accurately filled. When this has taken pl.ace, 
the pots are elevated from the bath by working 
the crane, and are placed over a water trough, to 
cool gradually. AVben cold, the whole is turned 
out of the pots, and the plaster being separated, by 
hammering and washing, the plates are ready for 
use; having received the most exact and perfect 
impression. 

JMetalUc casts from engravings on copper. 

A most important discovery lias lately been made, 
which promises to he ot considerable utility in the 
fine arts: some very beautiful specimens of metal- 
lic plates, of a peculi.ar composition, have lately 
appeared under the name of " cast exguavisgs.'' 
I'liis invention consists in taking moulds from 
every kind of engraving, whether line, mezzotinto, 
or aquatinia, and in pouring on tliis mould an alloy 
in a slate of fusion, capabh: of taking tlie finest im- 
pression. The obvious utility of Ibis invention, as 
applicable to engravings which meet with a ready 
sale, and of which gre.-;t numbers are required, 
will be incalculable; as it will w holly prevent the 
expense of retouching, ■wliich forms so prominent 
a charge in all works of an extended sale. No 
sooner is one c:ist worn out, than another may im- 
mediately be procured from the original plate, so 
that every impression will be a proof. Thus the 
works of our most celebrated artists may be hand- 
ed down, ad infinilum, for the improvement and 
delight of future ages, and will aftbrd rit the same 
time the greatest satisfaction to every lover of Iho 
fine arts. 

WMte metal. 

Melt together 10 ounces of lead, 6 ounces of bia^ 
muth, and 4 drachms of regulus of antiir.ony. 

Another. — Melt together 2 [lounds of regulus of 
antimony, 8 ounces of brass, and 10 ounces of tin. 
Common hard white metal. 

Melt together 1 pound of brass, 1^ ounce of spel- 
ter, and jt an ounce of tin. 

Tutenag. 

Melt together 2 parts of tin, and 1 of bismuth. 
Fusible alloy. 

Put into a crucible 4 ounces of bismuth, and 
when in a' state of fusion, throw in 2i ounces of 
lead, and, 1^- ounce of tin; these metals will com- 
bine, forming an alio}' fusible at the temperature 
of boiling water; the 'discovery of which is ascribed 
to Sir Isiiac Newton. Mould this alloy in bars, 
and lake them to a silversmitirs to be made into 
half a dozen tea-spoons. If one of these be givea 
to a stranger to stir his tea, as soon as it is poured 
fi'om t.ie tea-pot, he will be not a little surprised 
to find the spoon melt in the tea-ciip. 

The fusibility of tiiis alloy is certainly surprising, 
far the fusing temperature of each ot its compo- 
nents, singly, is higher than twice that of boiling 



IMETALLURGY. 



II 



water. Bismuth fuses at 476", lead at 612°, and tin 
at 442°; whilst water boils at 212°. 

Another. — Melt together 1 ounce of zinc, 1 ounce 
of bismuth, and 1 ounce of lead; this alloy will be 
found to be remarkably fusible (although each of 
the metals, separately, requires considerable heat 
to melt it,) and will melt even in hot w.iter: It will 
likewise remain in a fused state on a sheet of paper, 
over the flame of a lamp or candle. 

Metallftgrapldcal ap/)lication of fusible alloys. 

Paste a piece of white paper at the bottom of a 
china saucer, and let it dry: then write on it with 
common writing ink, and sprinkle some finely- 
powdered gnm arable over tlie writing, which will 
produce a sliglit relief. When well diied, brush 
off the powdir that does not adhere, and pour fusi- 
ble metal into tiie saucer, taking care to cool it 
rapidly, that ciysiallization may not take place. 
In this way a counterpart of the writing will be ob- 
tained, impressed on the metal. Bj' immersing 
the cast in sliglitly warm water, any adhering gum 
may be removed, and then, if examined by a glass, 
the writing ma)' easily be read and seen to be per- 
fect. Afterwards, by using common printer's ink, 
impressions may be taken from it, all of which will 
be true facsimiles of the first wi'iting. 

The difficulties in this new application of the fu- 
sible alloy are, to avoid unequal thickness in the 
plate of metal, which causes it to alter in form, 
and break under pressure; and to prevent the sur- 
face from crystallizing, when the ink will adhere 
■where it is not required. 

Casts from fusible metal. 

A combination of three p.arts of lead, with 2 of 
tm and 5 of bismuth, forms an alloy which melts at 
the temperature of 197° F. 

In making casts with this and similar alloys, it 
is important to use the metal at a temperature as 
low as possible; as, if but a few degrees elevated, 
the water which adheres to the things from which 
casts are to be taken, forms vapour, and produces 
bubbles. The fused metal must be allowed to cool 
in a lea-cup until just ready to set at the edges, 
and then pour it into the moulds, procuring in this 
■Nvay beautiful casts from moulds of wood, or of 
other similar substances. \\ hen taking impres- 
sions from gems, seals. See. the fused alloy should 
be placed on paper or paste-board, and stirred 
about till it becomes pasty, from cooling, at which 
moment the gem, die, or seal, should be suddenly 
stamped on it, and a very sharp impression will 
then be obtained. Journal of Science, No. 26. 
JVletallic injection. 

Melt together equal parts of bismuth, lead, and 
tin, with a suflicient quantity of quicksilver. 

This composition, with the addition of a small 
proportion of mercury, is used for injecting the 
vessels of many anatomical preparations; also for 
taking correct casts of various cavities of the body, 
as those of the ear. The animal structure may be 
corroded and separated by means of a solution of 
potass in w.-vter; and the metallic cast will be pre- 
served in an isolated state. 

For cusliions of electrical machinery. 

Melt together in a crucible 2 drachms of zinc 
and 1 of tin; when fused, pour them into a cold 
crucible, containing 5 drachms of mercury. The 
mercury will combine witli those metals, and form 
an alloy, (or amalgam, as it is called,) fit to be 
rubbed on the cushions which press the pli.te, or 
cylinder of an electrical machine. Before liie 
amalgam is applied, it is proper to rub tlie cushion 
with a mixture of tallow and bees- wax. 
For varnisldng figures. 

Fuse ^ an ounce of tin, wilii the same quantity 
of bismuth in a crucible: when melted, add A an 
oimce of mercury. When pprfectly combined, 



take the mixture from the fire, and cool it This 
substance mixed with the white of an egg, forma a 
very beautiful varnish, for plaster figures, &c. 
To plate looking-glasses. 

This art is erroneously termed silvering, for, as 
will be presently seen, there is not a particle of 
silver present in the whole composition. 

On tin-foil, fitly disposed on a flat table, mercu- 
ry is to be poured, and gently rubbed with ahare's 
foot: it soon unites itself with the tin, which then 
becomes very splendid, or, as the workmen saj', is 
cpdckened. A plate of glass is then cautiously to 
be slid upon the tin-leaf, in such a manner as to 
sweep oft" the redundant mercury, which is not in- 
corporated with the tin; leaden weights are then 
to be placed on the glass, and in a little time the 
quicksilvered tin-foil adheres so firmly to the glass, 
that the weights may be removed without any 
danger of its falling off. The glass thus coated is 
a common looking-glass. About 2 ounces of mer- 
cury are suflicient for covering three square feet of 
glass. 

The success of this operation depends much on 
the clearness of the glass; and the least dirt or dust 
on its surface will prevent the adhesion of the 
amalgam or alloy. 

Liquid foil for silvering glass globes. 

Melt together 1 ounce bf clean lead, and 1 ounce 
of fine tin, in a clean iron ladle; then immediately 
add 1 ounce of bismuth. Skim oft' the dross, re- 
move the ladle from the fire, and before it sets, 
add 10 ounces .of quicksilver. Now stir the whole 
carefully together, taking care not to breathe over 
it, as the fumes of the mercury are very pernicious. 
Pour this through an earthen pipe into the glass 
globe, which turn repeatedly round. 

Another. — To 4 ounces of quicksilver, add as 
mucli tin-foil as will become barely fluid when 
mixed. Let the globe be clean and warm, and in- 
ject the quicksilver by means of a pijie at the 
aperture, turning it about till it is silvered all 
over. Let the remainder run out, and hang the 
globe up. 

Another. — For this purpose, 1 part of mercury 
and 4 of tin have bten used; but if 2 parts of mer- 
cuiy, 1 of tin, 1 ol lead, and 1 of bismuth, are melt- 
ed ;.ogether, the compound which they form will 
answer the purpose better: either of them must be 
made in an iron ladle, over a clear fire, and must 
be frequently stirred. 

Bath metal. 

Melt together 1 pound of brass, and 4^ ounces 
of speller. 

Brass. 

Put 4J lbs. of copper into a crucible, expose it 
to heat in a furnace, and when perfectly fused, add 
1^ lb. of zinc. The metals will combine, forming 
tlial generally used alloy, called brass. 

Another. — For brass which is to be cast into 
plates, from which pans and kettles are to be made, 
and wire is to be drawn, braziers use calamine of 
the finest sort, instead of pure zinc, and in a great- 
er proportion than when common brass is made; 
generally 50 lb. of calamine to 34 lb. of copper. 
Old brass, which has been frequently exposed to 
the action of fire, when mixed w ith the cojjper and 
calamine, renders the brass far more ductile, and 
fitter for the making of fine wire, than it would be 
without it; but the German brass, particularly that 
of Nuremberg, is, when drawn into wire, said to 
be preferable to any made in England, for the 
strings of musical instruments. 
Pinclibeck. 

Put into a crucible 5 ounces of pure copper; 
when it is in a stale of fusion, add 1 ounce of zinc. 
I'hese metals combine, forming an alloy not un- 
like jeweller's gold: pour it into a moiild of any 



42 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



shape- This alloy is used for inferior jewel- 
lery. 

Some use onlv half this riuantity of zinc, in which 
proportion the alloy is more easily worked espe- 
cially in the making of jewelleiT^. 

Another. — Melt togetlier 1 ounce of brass witli 
1^ or '2 ounces of copper, fused under a coat of 
chai'coal dust. 

Prince's metal. 

Melt together 3 ounces of copper, and 1 ounce 
of zinc: or 8 ounces of brass, and 1 ounce of zinc. 

Another. — Melt in a crucible 4 ounces of cop- 
per, and when fused, add 2 ounces of zinc; tliey 
■will combine and form a veiy beautiful and useful 
alloy, called Prince Rupert's metal. 
Bronze. 

Melt in a clean crucible 7 lbs. of pure copper: 
■when fused, throw into it 3 lbs. of zinc, and 2 lbs. 
of tin. These metals will combine, forming bronze, 
■wliich, from the exactness of tlie impression which 
it takes from a mould, has, in ancient and modern 
times, been generally used in the formation of 
busts, medals, and statues. 

Specula of telescopes. 

Melt 7 lbs. of copper, and when fused, add 3 lbs. 
of zinc, and 4 llis. of tin. These metals will com- 
bine to form a beautiful alloy of great lustre, and 
of a light yellow colour, fitted to be made into 
specula for telescopes. Mr Mudge used only cop- 
per and grain tin, in the pi-oportion of iJlbs. to 14^ 
ounces. 

Gtin metal. 

Melt together 112 lbs. of Bristol brass, 14 lbs. 
of spelter, and 7 lbs. of block tin. 

Another. — Melt together 9 parts of copper and 
1 part of tin: the above compounds are those used 
in the manufacture of small and great brass guns, 
swivels, &CC. 

The pieces of ordnance used by the besiegers at 
the battle of Prague, were actually melted by the 
frequency of the tiring; the mixture of wliich lliey 
■were made contained a large portion of lead; it 
•would have been less prone to melt, and conse- 
quently preferable, had it contained none. A mix- 
ture of copper and tin is preferred to pure copper, 
not only lor the easting of cannon, but of statues, 
&c. ; for pure copper, in 'running througli the 
various parts of the mouhl, would lose so much of 
its heat as to set, or become solid too soon. 
Hell metal. 

Melt together 6 parts of copper, and 2 of tin: 
These proportions are the most approved for bells 
tlirougliout Europe, and in China. 

In tlie union of the two metals above mentioned, 
the combination is so complete, that tlie specific 
gravity of the alloy is greater than that of the two 
metals nncombined. 

Another. — Some bells are made in the propor- 
tion of 10 p;;rts of copper to 2 of tin. It may be in 
general observed, that a less proportion of tin is 
used for making church l)ells, than clock bells; and 
tiiat a little zinc is added for the bells of repeating 
■watches and other small bells. 

Hlanched copper. 

Melt together 8 ounces of cup])er, and ^ an ounce 
of neutral arsenical salt, fused together, uiidcra flux 
composed of calcined borax, charcoal dubt, and 
fine powder glass. 

Composition of ancient statties. 

According to Pliny, the metal used by the Ro- 
mans for their statues, and for liie plates on wliich 
they engraved inscriptions, was composed in the 
following manner. They first melted a quantity 
of copper, into which they ])Ut a third of its weight 
of old copper, which had been long in use; to every 
100 lbs. weight of tliii mixture they added 12} lbs. 
of an alloy composed ol etjuid pftrts of lead and tin. 



Mock platina. 

Melt together S ounces of brass and 5 ounces of 
spelter. 

Fine casting of brass, &c. 

The princiiml object in fine casting is to have a 
mould that shall receivi^ a beautiful impression, 
and at the same time sufficiently adhesive to resist 
the foi'ce of the fluid metal, that shall neither wash, 
nor be injured by the heat. The sand that covers 
or surrounds the model should be fine close sand; 
after removing the mould, the model must be faced 
with burnt rotten stone, and covered with loam, 
each dusted tlirough a bag, and the mould laid 
down upon it — this facing may be repeated, the 
mould must be dried and smoked with a torch, in 
lieu of water, the sand is moistened with a solu- 
tion of tartar, or the lees of wine, or with cream of 
tartar. Care must be taken to loosen the bands 
quickly: viz. loosen the first mould, wliile the se- 
cond is poui-ing, &c. On removing the work, every 
jiarticlif of the facing should be carefully scraped 
from the mould and thrown away. Part the moulds 
with coal and black rosin. 

Gilding metal. 

Melt together 4 parts of copper, 1 of Bristol old 
brass, and 14 oz. of tin, to every pound of copper. 
For common jevjellery. 

Melt together 3 ])arts of copper, 1 of Bristol 
old brass, and 4oz. of tin, to every pound of copper. 

If this alloy is for fine polishing, ttie tin may be 
omitted, and a mixture of lead and antimony sub- 
stituted. Paler polisliiiig metal is made by reduc- 
ing the copper to two or to one part. 
Yellow dipping metal. 

Melt together 2 parts of Cheadle brass, 1 parf ct 
coY)per, with a little Bristol old brass, and ^ oz. of 
tin to everj' pound of cojiper. 

Tills alloy is almost of tlie colour, inc. of gold 
coin. Clieadle brass is tlie darkest, and gives the 
metal a greenish hue. Old Bristol brass is pale 
and yellow. 

Another. — Good dipping metal may be made of 
1 pound of copper to 5 oz. of spelter; the copper 
should be tough cake, and not tile. 

When antimony is u-ed instead of tin, it should 
be in smaller quantity, or tlie metal will be brittle. 
Imitation of silver. 

"When copper is melted with tin, about ^ oz. of 
tin to a pound of copper, m ill make a pale bell- 
nietal, they will roll and ring very near to sterling 
silver. 

Tvtania or Britanma metal. 

INlelt togetlier 4 oz. of plate brass, and 4, oz. tin. 
When in fusion, add 4 oz. bismuth, anil 4 oz. re- 
guius of antimony. 

This is the hardening, which is to be added at 
discretion to melted tin, until it has the requisite 
colour lAud harilness. 

Another. — Melt together 2 lbs. of plate brass, 2 
lbs. of a mixture of copper and arsenic, either by 
cementing or melting, 2 lbs. of tin, 2 lbs. of bis- 
muth, and 2 lbs. regnlus of antimonv. 

This is to he added at discretion, to melted tin. 

Another. — Melt together 1 lb. of copper, 1 lb. 
tin, and 2 lbs. regulus of antimony, with or with- / 
out a little bismuth. 

Another. — Melt together 8 oz. Shruff brass, 2 
lbs. regulus of antimony, and 10 lbs. tin. ^ 

This is fit for use as Britannia metal. \ 

German tutania. 

Melt together 2 drachms of copper, 1 oz. of re* 
gulus of antimony, and 12 oz. of tin. 
Spanish tutania. 

To 8 oz. of scrap iron or steel, at a white heat, 
add 1 lb. of antimony in small portions, with 3 ok. 
of nitre. Melt and harden 1 lb. of tin with 2 ot^ 
of this compound. 



METALLURGY. 



13 



Another. — Melt together 4 oz. of antimony, 1 
OK. arsenic, and 2 lbs. tin. This compound is 
ready for use. The first of tliese Spanish alloys 
would be a beautifnl metal, if arsenic were added. 
Engestroom Uitania. 
Melt together 4 parts copper, S parts regnlus of 
antimony, and I part bisinuiii. 

Wiien added to 100 pwts of tin, this compound 
■will be re.idy for use. 

^ustitieii's metal for tinning. 
To 1 lb. of malleable iron, at a while heat, add 
5 oz. reguhis of antimony, and 24 lbs. of the purest 
Molucca tin. 

This alloy polishes without the blue tint, and is 
free from lead or arsenic. 

Snlilev for steel joints. 
Take of fine silver, 19 pennyweights, copper, 1 
«lo. and brass, 2 do. Alelt these under a coat of 
charcoal dust. 

This solder possesses several advantages over the 
usual spelter solder, or brass, wiien employed in 
soldering cast steel, &,c. as it fuses with less heat, 
and its whiteness lias a belter appearance tlian 
brass. 

Brass solder for iron. 
Thin plates of brass are to be melted between 
the pieces that are to be joined. If the v.'ork be 
very fine, as when two leaves of a broken saw are 
to be brazed together, cover it with pulverized bo- 
rax, melted with water ; that it may incorporate 
with the brass powder wliich is added to it : llie 
piece must be then ex])osed to the fire without 
touching the coals, and heated till the brass is seen 
to run. 

Silver solder for jereellers. 
Melt togetlier 19 pennyweights of fine silver; 
coi)i)er, 1 pennyweight ; and brass, 10 penny- 
weights. 

Silver solder for plating. 
Melt together 10 pennyweights of brass, and 1 
oz. of pure silver. 

Gold solder. 
Melt together of pure gold, 12 pennyweiglits ; 
pure silver, 2 pennyweights ; and copper, 4 penny- 
weights. 

Usefnl alloy of gold tuith platinum. 
Put into a cleaa crucible 7 drachms and a half of 
pure gold, and when perfectly melted, throw in 
half a dracimi of platinum. Tlie tAvo metals will 
combine intimately, forming an alloy rather whiter 
than pure gold, but remarkably ductile and elastic; 
it is also less perislwible than pure gold or jewel- 
lers' gold ; but more readily fusible than that 
metal. 

These excellent qualities must render this alloy 
an object of great interest to woi'kers iu metals, 
i'or spriyigs, where steel cannot be used, it will 
prove exceedingly advantageous. 

It is a curious circumstance, tliat the alloy of gold 
and platinum is soluble in nitric acid, which does 
not act on either of the metals, in a separate state. 
It is remarkable, too, that the alloy has very nearly 
the colour of platinum, even wlien composed of 
eleven parts of gold to one of the former metal. 
liing gold. 
Melt together of Spanish copper, 6 pennyweights 
and 12 graiiis ; fine silver, 3 pennyweights and 16 
grains, to one ounce five penny weij^hts of gold coin. 
Tliis is worth about 3/. per ounce. 

Gold from 35s. to 4Us. per ounce. 
Melt together 8 otuices 8 pennyweights of Spa- 
nish ctijiper, 10 pennyweights of fine silver, to one 
ounce of gold coin. 

xManlieim-gold, or similor. 
Melt together 3 ounces and a half of ccrpper, one 
ounce and a half of brass, and 15 gi-ains of ptire 
tin. 



Preparation of foils. 

Foils are thin plates or leaves of metal that ar^ 
put under stones, or compositions in imitation of 
stones, when they are set. 

The intention of foils is either to increase the 
lustre or play of the stones, or more generally to 
imju'ove the colour, by gi^uig an additional force 
to the tinge, whether it he natural or artificial, by 
tliat of a ground of the same hue, which the foil is 
in lliis case made to be. 

Tliere are consequently two kinds of foils ; the 
one is colourless, where the effect of giving lustre 
or play to the stone is produced by the polish of 
the surface, which makes it act as a mirror, and, by 
reflecting the light, prevents that deadness which 
attends the tiaviiig a duller ground under the stone, 
and brings it, by tlie double refraction of tlie light 
tliat is caused, nearer to the eftect of the diamond. 
I'he other is coloured with some pigment or stain 
of the same hue as the stone, or of some other 
which is intended to modify and change the hue of 
the stone in some degree ; as, where a yellow foil 
maj- be jiut under green, which is too mucli incli> 
ning to the blue, or under crimson, wliere it is de- 
sired to have the appearance more orange or scar- 
let. . 

Foils may be made of copper or tin ; and silver 
has been sometimes used, with which it ,has been 
advised, for some purposes, to mix gold ; but tUrt 
expense of either is needless, as copper may be 
made to answer the same end. 

To prepare copper for foils. 

Where coloured foils are wanted, copper may 
tlierefore be best used, and may be prepared for the 
purpose, by the following means. 

I'ake copper plates beaten to a pi-oper thickness, 
and pass them belwixt a pair of fine steel rollers 
very close set, and draw them as thin as is possi- 
ble to retain a proper tenacity. Folish them with 
very fine whiting, or rotten stone, till they shine, 
and have as much brightness as can b^ given tl^ra, 
and they will then be fit to receive the colom*. 
To iv/dten foils. . 

Where the yellow, or rather orange-colour of 
the ground would be injurious to the ett'ect, :;s in 
the case of purples, or crimson red, the foils should 
be wliitened, which may be done in the follovying 
maimer. 

Take a small quantity of silver, and dissolve it in 
aquafortis, and then put bits of copper into the so- 
lution, and preciijitate tlie silver ; which bein» 
done the fluid must be poured ott", and fresh water 
added to it, to wash away all the remainder of the 
first fluid ; after which the silver must be dried, an 
equal weight of ci'eam of tartar and common salt 
must then be ground with it, till the whole be re- 
duced to a very fine powder ; and with this mix- 
ture, the foils, being first slightly moistened, must 
be rubbed by the finger, or a bit of linen rag, till 
they be of the degree of whiteness desired; aftei" 
w hich, if it appear to be wanted, the polish must be 
refreshed. 

The tin foils are only used in the case of colour- 
less stones, where quicksilver is employed ; and 
they may be drawn out by tlie same rollers, but 
need not be further polished, so that etfect is pro- 
duced b)' other means in this case. 
Foils for crystals, pebbles, or paste, to give the lus- 
tre and play of diamonds. 

The manner of preparing foils, so as to give co- 
lourless stones the greatest degree of play and lus- 
tre, is by raising so high a polish or smoothness on 
the surface, as to give them the eftect of a mirror, 
wliich can only be done, in a perfect manner, by 
the use of quicksilver, applied in the same general 
way as iu the ciise of looking-glass. The incUioil 
by which it may be boet performed i» as f ilmn s. 



14 



UN1\'ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Take leaves of tin, prepared in the same manner 
as lor silvering looliing-glasses, and cut them into 
small pieces of such size as to cover the surface of 
the sockets or the stones that are to he set. Lay 
three of thesi; then, one upon another, and having 
moistened the inside of liie socket with thin gum- 
■water, and suffered it to become again so dry, that 
only a slight stickiness remains, put the three 
pieces of leaves, lying on each other, into it, and 
adapt them to the surface in as even a manner as 
possible. Wlien this is done, heat the socket, and 
fill it with warm quicksilver, which must be suf- 
fered to continue in it three or four minutes, and 
then gently poured out. The stone must then be 
thrust into the socket, and closed with it, care 
liaving been taken to give such room for it that it 
may enter without stripping off the tin and quick- 
silver from any part of the furnace. Tlie work 
should be well" closed round the stone, to prevent 
the tin and quicksilver contained in the socket from 
being shaken out by any violence. 

The lustre of stones set in this manner will con- 
tinue longer than when they are set in the common 
way, as tlie cavity round them being filled, there 
will be no passage found for moisture, which is so 
injurious to the wear of stones treated in any other 
way. 

This kind of foil likewise gives some lustre to 

glass or other transparent matter, which has little 

of itself; but to stones or pastes, that have some 

share of play, it gives a most beautiful brilliance. 

To colour foils. 

Two methods have been invented for colouring 
foils: the one by tinging the surface of the copper 
of the colour required by means of smoke, the 
other by staining or painting it with some pigment 
or otlier colouring substance. 

The colours used for painting foils may be tem- 

Eered with either oil, water rendered duly viscid 
y gum arable, size, or varnish. Where deep co- 
lours are wanted, oil is most proper, because some 
pigments become wholly transparent in it, as lake, 
or Prussian blue; but yellow and gi-een may be 
better laid on in varnish, as these colours may be 
had in perfection from a tinge wholly dissolved in 
spirit of wine, in the same manner as in the case 
of lacquers; and the most beautiful green is to be 
produced by distilled verdigrise, which is apt to 
lose its colour and turn black with oil. In com- 
mon cases, however, any of the colours may be, 
■with least trouble, laid on with isinglass size, in 
the same manner as the glazing colours used in 
miniature painting. 

Jtuby colours. 

For red, where the ruby is to be imitated, car- 
mine, a little lake used in isinglass size, or shell- 
lac varnish, is to be employed, if the glass or paste 
be of a full crimson, verging towards the purple; 
but if the glass incline to the scarlet, or orange, 
very bright lake (that is, not purple) may be used 
alone in oil.' 

Garnet reel. — For the garnet red, dragon's blood 
dissolved in seed-lac varnish may Ije used; and for 
the vinegar garnet, the orange lake, tempered with 
shell-lac varnish, will be found excellent. 

Amethyst. — For the amethyst, lake, with a little 
Prussian blue, used with oil, and very thinly spread 
on the foil, will completely answer the end. 

Blue. — For blue, where a deep colour, or the 
effect of tlie sapphire is wanted, Prussian blue, 
that is not too deep, should be used in oil, and it 
should be spread more or less thinly on the foil, 
according to the ligbtness or deepness of which the 
colour is required to be. 

Eagle marine. — For the eagle marine, common 
verdigrise, with a little Prussian blue, tempered in 
shuU-iac varnish, may be used. 



Yello-ai.— Where a full yellow is desired, the 
foil may be coloured with yellow lacquer, laid on 
as for otlier purposes; and for the slighter colour 
of topazes tlie burnisli and foil itself will be suffi- 
ciently strong witiiout any addition. 

Green. — For green, where a deep hue is required, 
the crystals of verdigrise, tempered in shell-lac 
varnish, should be used, but where the emerald is 
to be imitated, a little yellow lacquer should be 
added, to bring the colour to a truer green, and 
less verging to the blue. 

Other colours. — The stones of more dilated co-^ 
lour, such as the amethyst, topaz, vinegar-garnet, 
and eagle-marine, may be very cheaply imitated by 
transparent white glass or paste, even without foils. 
This is to be done by tempering the colours above 
enumerated with turpentine and mastic, and paint- 
ing the socket in which the counterfeit stone is to 
be set with the mixture, the socket ind stone itself 
being previously heated. In this case, however, 
the stone should be immediately set, and the socket 
closed upon it before the mixture cools and grows 
hard. The orange lake above-mentioned was in- 
vented for this purpose, in which it lias a beautiful 
effect, and was used with great success by a con- 
siderable manufacturer. The colour it produces 
is that of the vinegar-garnet, which it affords with 
great brightness. The colours before directed to 
be used in oil should be extremely well ground in« 
oil of turpentine, and tempered with old nut or 
poppy oil; or, if time can be given for the drying, 
with strong fat oil; diluted with spirit of turpen- 
tine, which will gain a fine polish of itself. 

The colours used in varnish should be likewise 
thoroughly well ground and mixt; and, in the case 
of the dragon's blood in tlie seed-lac varnish and 
the lacquer, the foils should be warmed before they 
are laid out. All the mixtures should be laid on 
the foils with a broad soft brush, which must be 
passed from one end to the other, and no part 
sliould be crossed, or twice gone over, or, at least, 
not till the first coat can be dry; when, if the co- 
lour do not lie strong enough, a second coat may 
be given. 



GILDING, SIL\T:RING, AND TINNING. 

To jfild gla&s and porcelain. 

Drinkiag, and otlier glasses are sometimes gilt 
on their edges. This is done, either by an adhe- 
sive varnish, or by heat. The varnish is prepared 
by dissolving in boiled linseed oil an equal weight 
either of copal or amber. This is to be diluted by 
a proper quantity of oil of turpentine, so as to be 
applied as thin as possible to the parts of the glass 
intended to be gilt. When this is done, which 
will be in about '24 hours, the glass is to be placed 
in a stove, till it is so warm as almost to burn the 
fingers wlien handled. At this temperature, the 
varnish will become adhesive, and a piece of leaf- 
gold, applied in the usual way, will immediately 
stick. Sweep off the superfluous portions of the 
leaf; and when quite cold, it may be burnished, 
taking care to interpose a piece of very thin paper 
(Indian paper) between the gold and the burnisher. 
If the varni-sh is very good, "this is the best method 
of gilding glass, as the gold is thus fixed on more 
evenly, than in any other way. 

Another method. — it often happens, when the 
varnish is but indifferent, that by repeated washing 
the gold wears oft': on tliis account the practice ot 
burning it in, is sometimes liad recourse to. 

For this purpose, some gold powder is ground 
with borax, and in this state applied to the clean 
surface of the glass, by a camel's hair pencil; when 
quite dry, the glass is put into a stove heated ic 



METALLURGY. 



15 



tbout the temperature of an annealing oven; the 
;um burns off, and the borax, by vitrifying, ce- 
Tients the gold with great firmness to the glass; 
jfler whicli it may be burnished. The gilding upon 
porcelain is in like manner fixed by heat and the 
ise of borax; and this kind of ware being neither 
ransparent nor liable to soften, and thus to be in- 
ured in its form in a low-red heat, is free from 
he risk and injury which the finer and more fusi- 
)l€ kinds of glass are apt to sustain from such treat- 
nent. Porcelain and other wares may be platinized, 
silvered, tinned, and bronzed, in a similar manner. 
To gild leather. 

In order to impress gilt figures, letters, and 
Dtlier marks upon leather, as on the covers of books, 
;dgings for doors, &c. the leather must first be 
lusted over with very finely powdered yellow resin, 
jr mastich gum. The iron tools or stamps are 
low arranged on a rack before a clear fire, so as to 
36 well heated, without becoming red hot. If the 
:ools are letters, they have an alphabetical ar- 
rangement on the rack. Each letter or stamp must 
t)e tried as to its heat, by imprinting its mark on 
the raw side of a piece of waste leather. A little 
^)raetice will enable the workman to jui!ge of the 
lieat. The tool is now to be pressed downwards 
Du the gold leaf; which will of course be indented, 
ind show the figure imprinted on it. The next 
letter or stamp is now to be taken and stamped in 
like manner, and so on with the others; taking 
care to keep the letters in an even line with eacli 
Dther, like tliose in a book. By this operation, the 
resin is melted; consequently the gold adheres to 
the leather; the superfluous gold may then be rub- 
bed off by a cloth, the gilded impressions remain- 
ing on the leather. In this, as in every other ope- 
ration, adroitness is acquired by practice. 

The clotli alluded to should he slightly greasy, 
to retain the gold wiped off; (otherwise there will 
be great waste in a few months,) the cloth will 
thus be soon completely saturated or loaded with 
the gold. VVlien this is the case, these cloths are 
generally sold to the refiners, who biu'n them and 
recover the gold. Some of these afford so much 
gold by burning, as to be worth from a guinea to a 
guinea and a half. 

1 'o gild -writings, drawings, &c. on paper or parch- 
ment. 

Letters written on vellum or paper are gilded in 
three wrys: in the first, a little size is mixed with 
the ink, and the letters are written as usual; when 
they are dry, a slight degree of stickiness is jm'o- 
duced by breathing on them, upon which the gold 
leaf is immediately applied, and by a little pres- 
sure may be made to adhere with sufficient firm- 
ness. In the second method, some white-lead or 
chalk is ground up with strong size, and the let- 
ters are made with this by means of a brush: when 
the mixture is almost dry, the gold leaf may be 
laid on, and afterwards burnished. The last me- 
thod is to mix up some gold powder with size, and 
to form the letters of this by means of a brush. 
It is supposed that this latter method was that used 
«y the monks in illuminating their missals, psal- 
ters, and rubrics. 

To gild the edges of paper. 

The edges of the leaves of books and letter paper 
are gilded, whilst in a horizontal position in the 
bookbinder's press, by first applying a composition 
formed of four parts of Armenian bole, and one of 
candied sugar, ground together with water to a 
proper consistence, and laid on by a brush with the 
white of an egg. This coating, when nearly dry, 
is smoothed by the burnisher, which is generally 
a crooked piece of agate, very smooth, and fi\ed 
in a handle. It is then slightly moistened by a 
Bponge dipped ia cleaa water, ftaU sijiicezed in the 



hand. The gold leaf !s now taken upon a piece 
of cotton from the leathern cushion, and applied 
on the moistened surface. When dry, it is to be 
burnished by rubbing the agate over it repeatedly 
from end to end, taking care not to wound the sur- 
face by the point of the burnisher. A piece of 
silk or India paper is usually interposed betweea 
the gold and the burnisher. 

Cotton wool is generally used by bookbinders to 
take the leaf up from the cushion; being the best 
adapted for the purpose on account of its pliabili- 
ty, smoothness, softness, and slight inoistness. 
To gild silk, satin, ivory, &c. by hydrogen gas. 

Immerse apiece of white satin, silk, or ivory in 
a solution of nitro-muriate of gold, in the propor- 
tion of one part of the nitro-muriate to three of 
distilled water. Whilst the substance to b. gilded 
is still wet, immerse it in a jar of hydrogen gas; 
it will soon be covered by a complete coat of gold. 

Another method. — The foregoing experiment 
may be very prettily and advantageously varied as 
follows? — Paint flowers or other ornaments with a 
very fine camel hair pencil, dipped in the above 
mentioned solution of goliF, on pieces of silk, satin, 
&CC. &CC. &c. and hold them over a Florence flask, 
from which hydrogen gas is evolved, during the 
decomposition of the water by sulphuric acid and 
iron filings. The painted flowers, &c. in a few 
minutes, will shine with all the splendour of the 
purest gold. A coating of this kind will not tar- 
nish on exposure to the air, or in washing. 
Oil gilding on luood. 

The wood must first be covered, or primed, by 
two or three coatings of boiled linseed oil and car- 
bonate of lead, in order to fill up the pores, and 
conceal the irregularities of the surface, occasion- 
ed by the veins in the wood. When the priming 
is quite dry, a thin coat of gold-size must be laid 
on. This is prepared by grinding together some 
red oxide of lead with the thickest drying oil thut 
can be procured, and the older the better, that it 
may woi-k freely; it is to be hiixed, previously to 
being used, with a little oil of turj)entine, till it is 
brought to a i)roper consistence. If the gold-size 
is good, it will be sufficiently dry in twelve hours, 
more or less, to allow the artist to proceed to the 
last part of the i)rocess, which is the application of 
the gold. For this purpose a leaf of gold is spread 
on a cushion (formed by a few folds of flannel se- 
cured on a piece of wood, about eight inches square, 
by a tight covering of leather,) and is cut into strips 
of a proper size by a blunt pallet knife ; each strip 
being then taken upon the point of a fine brush, 
is applied to the part intended to be gilded, and is 
then gently pressed down by a ball of soft cotton ; 
the gold immediately adheres to the sticky surface 
of the size, and after a few minutes, the dexterous 
■Bpplication of a large camel's hair brush sweeps 
away the loose particles of the gold-leaf without 
disturbing the rest. In a day or two the size will 
be completely dried, and uie operation will be 
finished. 

The advantages of this method of gilding are, 
that it is very simple, very durable, and not readi- 
ly injured by changes of weather, even when ex- 
posed to the open air ; and when soiled it may be 
cleaned by a little warm vvater and a soft brush : 
its chief employment is iii outdoor work. Its dis- 
advantage is, that it cannot be burnished, and there- 
fore wants the high lustre produced by the follow- 
ing method : 

To gild by burnishing. 

This operation is chiefly performed on picture- 
frames, mouldings, headings, and fine stucco work. 
The surface to be gilt must be carefully covered 
with a strong size, made by boiling down pieces of 
white leather, or clippings of parchment, till they 



IB 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



are reduced to a stlfT jelly; this cnatingbeinp; dried, 
eight or ten moi-e must be applied, consist! ii..;j of 
the same size, mixed with fine Paris [duster or 
washed 'cliHlic; wiien a sufticient number of layers 
have been put on, varying; according to tlie nature 
of (lie work, and the whole is become quite dry, a 
moderately lliick layer must be applied, composed 
of size and Armenian bole, or yellow oxide of lead: 
■while this last is yet moist, the gold leaf is to t>e 
put on in the usual manner; it will immediately 
adhere on bein;^ pressed by the cotton ball, rnd 
before the size is become perfectly dry, those parts 
whicli are intended to be the most brilliant are to 
be carefully burnished by an agate or a dog's tooth 
fixed in a iiandle. 

In order to save the labour of burnishing, it is a 
common, but bad practice, slightly to burnish the 
brilliant parts, and to deaden the rest by drawing 
a brush over tliem dipped in size; the required 
contrast between the polished and tlie unpolished 
gold is indeed thus obtained; but the general eliect 
IS much inferior to that produced in the regular 
-way, and the smallest drop of water falling on the 
sized part occasions a stain. This kind ot gilding 
can only be applied oli in-door work; as rain, and 
even a considerable degree of dampness, will occa- 
sion the golil to peal off. When dirty, it may be 
deaned by a sotl'brusb, with hot spirit of wine, or 
oil of turpentine. 

The parts to he burnished (in gilding on metals) 
being covered with the usual guarding, the piete 
is fastened by five iron wires to the end of an iron 
rod; it is then to be highly heated until the guard- 
ing becomes brown, when the gilding will be found 
to have acquired a fine gold colour. It is now to 
be covered with a mixture of common salt, nitre, 
aad alum, liquelied in the Vr-ater of crystallization 
they contain-; the piece is to be carried again to 
fhefire, and heated until the saline coating is in u 
siace of fusion, and becomes nearly transparent, 
when it must be witlidrawn and suddenly plunged 
into cold water, which removes both coating and 
guarding. Dip it afterwanls in veri/ iveak nitric 
iicid, and wash it repeateiUy in several separate 
tubs of water. It may be dried either by exposure 
to air, or gently wiping it with clean, soft, dry 
liaen. 

To gild copper, &c. by amalgam. 

Immerse a very clean bright piece of copper in 
a diluted solution of nitrate of mercury. i5y the 
affinity of copper llir nitric acid, the mercury will 
be precipitated: no«' spread the amalgam of gold, 
rather tliinly, over the coat of mercury just given 
to the copper. This coat unites with the amalgam, 
but of course will remain on the co[)per. Now 
place the piece or pieces so operated on in a clean 
oven or furnace, where there is no smoke. If tlie 
h^^at is a little greater than 660°, the mercury of 
the amalgam will be volatilized, and the copper 
will be beautifcdly gilt. 

In the large way of gilding, the furnaces are so 
contrived tliat the volatilized mercury is again 
condensed, and preserved .for further use, so that 
there is no loss in the operation. There is also a 
contrivance by which the volatile particles of mer- 
^ cury are prevented from injuring the gilders. 
• To gild steel. 

Pour some of the etbereah solution of gold into 
a wine glass, and dip therein the blade of a new 
pei\-knife, lancet, or razor; withdraw the instru- 
ment, and allow the ether to evaporate. The blade 
■^vill be found to be covered by a very beautiful 
coat of gold. A clean rag, or small piece of very 
dry sponge, may be dipped in the ether, and used 
to moisten the blade, with the same result. 

bx tMs case there is no occasion to pour tlie 



liquid into a glass, which must undouotedly lose 
by evaporation; but the rag or siionge may be 
moistened by it, bv applying either to the moutU 
of the phial. This coatmg of gold will remain on 
the steel for a great length of time, and will pre- 
serve it from rusting. 

This is the way in which swords and other cut- 
lery are ornamented. Lancets too are in this way 
gilded with great advantage, to secure them from 
rust. 

Gold powder for gilding. 

Gold powder may be prepared in .three differ- 
ent ways: — put into an earthen mortar some gold 
leaf, with a little honey or thick gum-water, and 
grind tlie mixture till the gold is reduced to ex- 
tremely minute particles. When this is done, a 
little warm water will wash out the honey or gum, 
leaving the gold behind in a pulverulent state. 

Another. — Another way is, to dissolve ])ure gold, 
(or the leaf,) iii nitro-muriatic acid, and then to 
precipitate it by a piece of co|)per, or by a solution 
of sulphate of iron. T^ie precipitate (if Ijy copper,) 
mu^t be digested in distilled vinegar, and then 
washed, (by pouring water over it re[)catedly,) and 
dried. This precipitate will be in the form of rt 
very fine powder: it works better, and is more 
easily burnished than gold leaf ground with honey 
as above. 

Another. — The best method of preparing gold 
powder, is by heating a pi-epared amalgam of gold, 
in an open clean crucible, and continuing tlie strong 
heat until the whole of the mercury is evaporated; 
at the same time constantly stirring the amalgam 
with a glass rod. When the mercury has com- 
pletely left the gold, the ren^uning powder is to 
be ground in a VVedgwood's ijiortar, with a little 
water, and afterwards dried. It is then fit for use. 

Although the last mode of operating has been 
here given, the operator cannot be too much re- 
minded of the danger attending the sublimation of 
mercury. In the small way hei'e described, it ia 
impossible to operate without danger; it is there- 
fore better to prepare it according to the former 
directions, than to risk the health by the latter. _ 
To cover bars of copper, &c. with gold, so us to be 
rolled out into sheets. 

Tliis method of gildinq- was invented by Mr 
Turner of Birmingham. Mr Turner first prepares 
ingots or pieces of cojiper or brass, in convenient 
lengths and sizes. He then cleans them L-jm im- 
purity, and makes their surfaces level, and pre- 
pares plates of pure gold, or gold mixed with a 
portion of alloy, of the same size as the ingots of 
metal, and of suitable liiickness. Having placed a 
l)iece of gold upon an ingot intended to be plated, 
he hammers and compresses them both together, 
so that they may have their surfaces as nearly 
equal to each other as possible; and then binds them 
together with wire, in order to keep them in the 
same position during the process required to at- 
tach them. Afterwards he takes silver filings, 
which he mixes witii borax, to assist the fusion of 
the silver. This mixtm-e he lays upon the edge of 
the plate of gold, and next to the ingot of metal. 

Having tiius prepared the two bodies, he places 
them on a fire in a stove or furnace, where they 
remain until the silver and borax placed along the 
edges of the metals melt, and until the adhesion 
of the gold with the metal is perfect. He then 
takes the ingot carefully out of the strve. 13y this 
j jirocesstlie ingot is plated with gold, and prepared 
ready for rolling into sheets. 

To .silver copper ingots. 

The princi[)al difficulties in plating copper in- 
gots are, to bring the surfaces of the copper and 
silver into fusion at the same time; and to prevent 
tiie coppT fr'^rc valinj;; for which purposes fiiuan 



METALLURGY. 



17 



sre Tised. The surface of the copper on which the 
silver is to be fixed must be made flat by filing, and 
should be left rough. The silver is first annealed, 
and ilfterwards pickled in weak spirit of salt; it is 
planished, and then scraped on the surface to be 
ntted on the copper. These prepared surfaces 
are anointed with a solution of borax, or strewed 
■witli fine powdered borax itself, and then confined 
in contact with each other, by binding wii-e. 
When they are exposed to a sufticient degree of 
heat, the flux causes the surfaces to fuse at the same 
time, and after they become cold, tJiey are found 
firmly united. 

Copper may likewise be plated by heating it, 
and bui'nishing leaf-silver upon it; so may iron and 
brass. This process is called French plating. 
To gild in colours. 
The principal colours of gold for gilding are red, 
green, and yellow. These should be kept in dif- 
ferent amalgams. The part whichis to remain of 
the first colour, is to be stopped off with a compo- 
sition of chalk and glue; the variety required is 
produced by gilding the unstopped parts with the 
proper amalgam, according to tlie usual mode of 
gilding. 

Sometimes the amalgam is applied to the surface 
to be gilt, without any quicking, by spreading it 
■with aqua fortis; but this depends on the same prin- 
ciple as a previous quicking. 

Grecian gilding. 
Equal parts of sal-ammoniac and corrosive sub- 
limate, are dissolved in spirit of nitre, and a solu- 
tion of gold made with this menstrum. Tlie silver 
is brushed over with it, which is turned black, but 
on exposui'e to a red heat, it assumes the colour of 
gold. 

To dissolve gold in aqva regia. 
Take an aqua regia, composed of two parts of 
nitrous acid, ap.d one of marine acid; or of one part 
of sal-ammoniac, and four parts of aqua fortis; let 
the gold be gi-anulated, put into a sufficient quanti- 
ty of this menstruum, and exposed to a moderate 
oegree of heat. During the solution an efferves- 
cence takes place, and it acquires a beautiful yel- 
low colour, which becomes more and more intense, 
till it has a golden or even orange colour. When 
the itiensti-uum is saturated, it is veiy clear and trans- 
pai'ent. 

To gild iron or steel ivith a solvtion of gold. 
Make a solution of 8 ounces of nitre and com- 
ijion salt, with 5 ounces of crude alum in a suffi- 
cient quantity of water; dissolve lialf an ounce of 
gold thinly plated and cut; and afterwards evapo- 
rate to drjness. Digest the residuum in rectified 
spirit of wine or ether, which will perfectly ab- 
sti'actthe gold. The iron is brushed over widi 
this solution and becomes immediately giltJ 
To gild, by dissolving gold in aqua regia. 
Fine linen i-ags are soaked in a saturated solu- 
tion of gold in aqua regia, gently dried, and after- 
wards burnt to tinder. The substance to be gilt 
must be well polished; a piece of cork is first dip- 
ped into a solution of common salt in water, and 
afterwards into the tinder, which is well rul)bed 
on tlie surface of the metal to be gilt, and the gold 
appears in all its metallic lustre. 

Jimalgam of gold, in the large -ti-ay. 
A quantity of quicksilver is put into a crucible 
or iron ladle, whicli is lined with clay and exposed 
to heat till it begins to smoke. The goki to be 
mixed should be previously granulated, and heated 
red hot, when it should be ad-ded to the quicksil- 
ver, and stirivjd about with an iron rod till it is per- 
fectly dissolved. If there should be any supedlu- 
oub raercuiy, it may be separated by passing it 
Uu-ough clean soft leallier; aud the remaining atual- I 



gam will have the consistence of butter, ami con- 
tain about three parts of mercury to one of gold. 
To gild by amalgamation. 
The metal to be gilt is previously well cleaned 
on its surface, by boiling it in a weak pickle, whicfi 
is a very dilute nitrous acid. A quantity of aqua 
fortis is poured into an earthen vessel, and quicks 
silver put tlierein; when a sufficient quantity of ' 
mercury is dissolved, the articles to be gilt are 
put into the solution, and stirred about with a 
brush till they become white. This is called quick- 
ing. But, as during quicking by this mode, a nox- 
ious vapour continually arises, which proves very 
injurious to the healtli of the workman, they have 
adopted another method, by which they, in a great 
measure, avoid that danger. They now dissolve 
the quicksilver in a bottle containing aqua fortis, 
and leave it in the open air during the solution, so 
that the noxious vapour escapes into the air. Then 
a little of this solution is poured into a basin, and 
with a brush dipped therein, they stroke over the 
surface of the metal to be gilt, which immediately 
becomes quicked. The amalgam is now applied 
by one of the following methods: — viz. 

1st. By proportioning it to the quantity of arti- 
cles to be gilt, and putting tliem into a Mhite hat 
together, working them about with a soft brush, till 
tlie amalgam is uniformly spread. 

Or, 2dly. By applying a portion of the amalgam 
upon one part, 'and spreading it on the surface, if 
Hat, by working it about with a hai'der brusli. 

Tl>e wo)"k tlms managed is put into a pan, and 
exposed to a gentle degree of heat; when it becomes 
hot, it is frequently put into a hat, and worked 
about with a painter's large brush, to prevent au 
irregular dissipation of the mercury, till, at last, the_ 
quicksilver is entirely dissipated by a repetition of 
the heat, and the gold is attached to the suiface of 
the metal. This gilt surface is well cleaned by a 
wire brush, and then artists heighten the colour of 
the gold by the application of various compositions; 
this pai't of die process is called colouring. 
To silvei^ by heat. 
Dissolve an ounce of pure silver in aqua fortis, 
and precipitate it with common salt; to whicli 
add 2 lb. of sal ammoniac, sandiver, and white vi- 
ti-iol, and ^ oz. of sublimate. 

Anotlier inethod. — Dissolve an ounce of pm-e sil- 
ver in aqua fortis; precipitate it with common sail, 
and add, after washing, 6 ounces of common salt, j 
ounces each of sandiver and v liite vitriol, and ^ oz. 
of sublimate. 

These are to be gi'ound into a paste upon a tine 
stone with a muller; the substance to be silvered 
must be rubbed over with a sufficient quantity of 
the paste, and exposed to a proper degree of heiit. 
AVliere the silver runs, jt is taken from the fire, 
and dipped into weak spirit of salt to clean 't. 
Silveii,7ig on gilt tvork, by amalgamation. 
Silver will not attach itself to any metal by amal- 
gamation, unless it be first gilL The process is tlie 
same as gilding iu coloui's, only no acid should be 
used. 

To silver in tlie cold ivay. 
Take two drachms of each, tartar and common 
salt; ^ a drachm of alum, and !20 grains oi silver, 
precipitated from the nitrous acid by copper; make 
them into a paste with a little water. I'his is to be 
rubbed on the surtice to be silvered with a cork, &ic. 
AnotJiCr method. — Dissolve pure silver in aquii 
fortis, and [U'ecipitate the silver witii common 
salt; make this ju-ecipitate into a paste, by adding h 
little more salt and cream of tartai". It is applied 
as iu the former metliod. 

To sepcuate the silver from plated copper. 
This process is appli*<i lo recover the sih-er from 

D2. 



18 



UNIVERSAL llECEIPT BOOK. 



the plated metftl, 'wliich has been rolled dawn for 
buttons, toys, he. without destroying any large 
portion of the copper. For this pui-pose, a men- 
striunn is composed of3 pounds of oil of vitriol, 1^ 
onuoe of nitre, and a pound of water. Tlic plat- 
ed metal is boiled in it till the silver is dissolved, 
and then the silver is recovered by throwing com- 
mon salt into the solution. 

To assay plated metals. 

Take a determinate quantity of tlie ])latcd me- 
tal; put it into an earthen vessel, with a sufficient 
quantity of the above menstruum, and place it in a 
gentle heat. When the silver is stripped, it must 
be collected with common s.ilt; the calx must bo 
tested witli le.id, and tlie estimate made according 
to the product of silver. 

To plate iron. 

Iron may be plated by tliree different modes. 

1st. Ky polishing the surface very clean and 
Jevel with a burnisher; and afterwards by exposing 
it to a blueing heat, a leaf of silver is projierly 
placed and carefully burnished down. Tiiis is re- 
peated till a sufficient number of leaves are applied, 
to give the silver a proper body. 

iid. By the use of a solder; slips of thin solder are 
placed between the iron and silver, with a little 
flux, and secured together by binding wire. It is 
tlien placed in a clear fire, and continued in it till 
the solder melts; when it is taken out, and on cool- 
ing is found to adhere firmly. r 

And 3d. By tinning the iron first, anil uniting 
the silver by the intermedia of slips of rolled tin, 
brought into fusion in a gentle heat. 

To heit^hten the colour ofyelloxo gold. 

Take of salt petre, 6 oz. green copperas, 2 oz. 
•white vitriol and alum, of each, 1 oz. 

If it be wanted redder, a small portion of blue 
vitriol must be added. Tliese are to be well mix- 
ed, and dissolved in water as the colour is wanted. 
To heighten the colour of green gold. 

Take of salt petre, I oz. 10 dwts. sal ammoniac, 
1 oz. 4 dwts. Roman vitriol, 1 oz. 4 dwts. verdi- 
gris, IS dwts. Mix them well together, and dis- 
solve a portion in water, as occasion requires. 

The work must be dip])ed in tliese compositions, 
applied to a proper heat to burn them ofl', and then 
quenched in water or vinegar. 

To heighten the colour of red gold. 

To 4 oz. of melted yellow wax, add, in fine pow- 
der, \h oz. of red ochre, 1^ oz. of verdigris, cal- 
cined till it yield no fume.s, and ^ an oz. of calcin- 
e<l borax; mix them well together. It is necessa- 
ry to calcine the verdigris, or else, by the heat ap- 
]ilied in burning the wax, the vinegar becomes so 
c'lnceiitrated as to corrode the surface, and make 
it appear speckled. 

To separate gold from gilt, copper and silver. 

App'y a solution of borax, in water, to the gilt 
surface, with a fine brusli, and sprinkle over it sonic; 
fine i)Owdered sulphur. Make the piece red hot, ami 
queiicli it in water. The gold may be easily wiped 
olf with a scratch-brush, and recovered by testing 
it with lead. 

Gold is taken from the surface of silver by 
spreading over it a paste, made of powdered sal am- 
moniac, with aqua fortis, and heating it till the 
matter smokes, and is nearly dry; when the gold 
may be separated by rubbing it with a scratch brush. 
To tin copper and U-ass. 

Boil six pounds of cream of tartar, four gallons 
of waier, and eight pounds of grain tin, or tin sha- 
vings. After the materials have boiled a sufficient 
time, tlie substance to be tinned is put therein, and 
tlie boiling continued, when the tin is precipitated 
in its metallic form. 

To tin iron or copper vessels. 

Iron whicli is to be tinned, must be previously 



stee])ed in acid materials, such as sour whey, dis- 
tillers' wash, &c.; then scoured, and dipped in melt- 
ed tin, having been first rubbed over with a solu- 
tion of sal ammoniac. The surface of the tin is 
pi'evented from calcining, by covering it with a coat 
of fat. Copper vessels must be well cleansed; and 
then a sufficient quantity of tin with sal ammoniao 
is put therein, and brought into fusion, and the cop- 
per vessel moved about. A liule resin is some- 
times added. The sal ammoniac prevents the cop- 
per from scaling, and causes the tin to be fixed 
wlierever it touches. Lately, zinc has been pro- 
jiosed for lining vessels instead of tin, to avoid the 
ill consequences Avhich have been unjustly appre- 
hended. 

To prepare the leaden tree. 

Put ^ an ounce of the super-acetate of lead in 
powder, into a clear glass globe or wine decanter, 
filled to the bottom of tiie neck with distilled 
water, and 10 drops of nitric acid, and shake the 
mixture well. Prepare a rod of zinc with a ham- 
mer and file, so that it may be a quiuter of an inch 
thick, and one incli long; at the same time form 
notches in each side for a thread, by whicli it is to 
be suspended, and tie the thread so that the knot 
shall be uppermost, when the metal bangs quite per- 
pendicular. "When it is tied, pass the two ends of 
the thread through a perforation in llie cork, and 
let them be again tieil over a small splinter of wood 
which may pass between them and tlie cork. 
"When the string is tied, lot the length between the 
cork and the zinc he such that the precipitant (the 
zinc) may beat equal distances from the sides, bot- 
tom, and top, of the vessel, when immersed in it. 
When all things are thus prepared, ])lace the ves- 
sel in a place where it may not be disturbed, and 
introduce the zinc, at the same time fitting in the 
cork. The metal will very soon be covered with 
the lead, which it precipitates from the solution, 
and this will continue to take place until the whole 
be precipitated upon the zinc, which will assume 
the form of a tree or busli, whose leaves and 
bi-anclies are laminal, or plates of a metallic lus- 
tre. 

To prepare the tin tree. 

Into the same, or a similar vessel to that used in 
the last experiment, pour distilletl water as before, 
and piit in three draclims of muriate of tin, addinjj 
ten drops of nitric aciti, ami shake the vessel until 
the salt be completely dissolved. Replace the zinc 
(wliicii must be cleared from tlie etfects of the 
former experiment,) as before, and set tlie wliole 
aside to precipitate without disturbance. In a few 
hours, the eOect will be similar to the last, only 
that the ti'ee of tiu will have more lustre. In tliese 
experiments, it is surprising to observe the laminae 
slioot out as it were from nothing ; but this piieno- 
raenon seems to proceed from a galvanic aciiou ot 
the metals and the water. 

To prepare the silver tree. 

Pour into a glass globe or decanter, 4 drachms 
of nitrate of silver, dissolved in a ])ound or more 
of distilled water, and lay the vessel on the chininey 
piece, or iji some place where it may not be dis- 
turl)ed. Mow pour in 4 drachms of mercury. In 
a short time the silver will be precipitated in tlie 
most beautiful arborescent form, resembling real 
vegetation. This has beeu generally termed tlie 
Arbor Diante. 

Metallic ivaiering, or for blanc moire. 

This article, of Parisian invention, wliich is mucli 
employed to cover ornamental cabinet woik, <h'esi>- 
ing boxes, telescopes^ opera glasses, kc. Sic. is pre- 
parotl in the following manner. 

Sulphuric acid is to be diluted with from seven 
to nine parts of water ; then dip a sponge or raj; 
into it, and wa.sh with it the surface of a sheet oi 



METALLURGY. 



19 



fin. This will speedily exhibit an appearance of 
crystallization, -wnich is the moire. 

Tills effect, however, cannot be easily produced 
Upon every sort of sheet tin, for if the sheet has 
been much hardened. by hammering; or rolling, 
then the moir6 cannot be effected until the sheet 
has been heated so as to produce an incipient fusion 
on the surfoce, after which tlie acid will act upon 
it, and produce the moire. Almost any acid will 
do as well as the sulphuric, and it is said that the 
citric acid dissolved in a sufficient quantity of wa- 
ter, answers better tlian any other. 

The moire may be much improved by employ- 
ing the blow pipe, to form small and beautiful 
specks on the surface of the tin, pi-evious to the ap- 
plication of the acid. 

When the moire has been formed, the plate is 
to be varnished and polished, the varnisli being 
tinted with any glazing colour, and thus the red, 
green, yellow, and pearl coloured moires are ma- 
nufactured. 

CMnese sheet lead. 

The operation is cai-ried on by two men ; one 
is seated on the floor with a large flat stone before 
him, and P'ith a moveable flat stone-stand at his' 
side. His fellow workman stands beside him with 
a crucible filled with melted lead ; and having 
poured a certain quantity upon the stone, tlie other 
lifts tlie moveable stone, and dashing it on the fluid 
lead presses it out into a flat and thin plate, which 
he instantly removes from the stone. A second 
quantity of lead is poured in a similar manner, and 
a similar plate formed, the process being carried 
on with singular rapidity. The rough edges of tlie 
plates are then cut off, and they are soldered to- 
gether for use. 

Mr Waddel has applied this method with great 
success to the formation of thin plates of zinc, for 
galvanic purposes. 



PARTING. 



Ry this process gold and silver are separated from 
each other. These two metals ef[ually resisting 
tlie action of fire and lead, must therefore be sepa- 
rated by other means. This is effected by differ- 
ent menstrua. Nitrous acid, marine acid, and sul- 
plmr, wliich cannot attack gold, operate upon sil- 
ver ; and these are the principal agents employed 
in this process. 

Parting by nitrous acid is most convenient, con- 
sequently most used, — indeed, it is the only one 
employed by goldsmiths. This is called simply 
parting. 

That made by the marine acid is by cementation, 
and is called cenlrated parting ; and parting "by 
sulphur is made by fusion, and called dhx pabt- 

Parting by aquafortis. 
This process cannot succeed unless we attend to 
some essential circumstances : 1st. the gold and 
silver must be in a proper portion, viz. the silver 
ought to be three parts to one of gold ; though a 
mass containing two parts of silver to one of gold 
liiay be parted. To judge of the quality of the 
metal to be parted, assayers make a comparison 
upon a toucb-stoue, between it and certain needles 
composed of gold and silver, in graduated propor- 
tions, and properly mai-ked ; wliich are called 
mooF KEEDLES. If this trial shews that the silver 
is not to the gold as three to one, the mass is iin- 
jn-oper for the operation, urdess more silver be 
added ; and 2dly, Uiat the parting may be exact, 
the aqua fortis must be very pure, especially free 
from any mixture of the vitriolic or marine acifl. 
l''or if this were not attended to, a quantity of sil- 



ver proportionable to these two foreign acids would 
be separated during the solution ; and this quanti- 
ty of sulphate of silver would remain mingled with 
the gold, which consequently would not be entirely 
purified by the operation. 

The gold and silver to be parted ought previous- 
ly to be granulated, by melting it in a crucible, and 
pouring it into a vessel of water, giving the water 
at the same time a rapid circular motion, by quick- 
ly stirring it round with a stick. The vessels ge- 
nerally used in this operation are called parting 
glasses, which ought to be very well annealed, and 
chosen free from flaws ; as one of the chief incon- 
veniences attending the operation is, that the glasses 
are apt to crack by exposure to cold, or even when 
touched by the hand. Some operators secure the 
bottom of the glasses by a cotiting composed of a 
mixture of new-slaked lime, with beer and whites 
of eggs, spread on a cloth, and wrapped round the 
glasses at the bottom ; over which they apply a 
composition of clay and hair. The parting glasses 
should be placed in vessels containing water support- 
ed by trivets, with a fire under them ; because if ii 
glass should break, the contents are caught in the 
vessel of water. If the heat communicated to the 
water be too great, it may be properly regulated by 
pouring^cold water gradually and carefully down 
the side of the vessel into a parting glass 15 inches 
high, and 10 or 12 inches wide at the bottom { 
placed in a copper pan 12 inches wide at bottom, 
15 inches wide at top, and 10 inches high, there is 
usually put about 80 ounces of metal, with twice as 
much of aqua fortis. 

The aqua fortis ought to be so strong as to act 
sensibly on silver, when cold, but not so strong as 
to act violently. Little heat should be applied at 
first, as the U([uor is apt to swell and rise over the 
vessel ; but when the acid is nearly saturated, the 
heat may safely be increased. "When the solution 
ceases, which is known by the eftervescence dis- 
continuing, the liquor is to be poured oft"; if any 
grains appear entire, more aqua fortis must be 
added, till the silver is all dissolved. If the ope- 
i-ation has been performed slowly, the remaining 
gold will have the form of distinct masses. The 
gold appears black after parting ; its parts have no 
adhesion togetlier, because the silver dissolved from 
it has left many interstices. To give them more 
solidity, and improve their colour, they are put 
into a test under a rauflle, and made red hot, after 
which they contract and become more solid, aud 
the gold resumes its colour and lustre. It is then 
called RiiAix GOLD. If the operation has been per- 
formed hastily, the gold will have the appearance 
of black mud or powder, which, after well washing, 
must be melted. 

The silver is usually recovered by precipitating 
it from the aqua fortis by means of pure copper. 
Tf the solution be perfectly saturated, no precipi- 
tation can take place, till a few drops of aqua fortis 
are added to the liquor. The precipitate of silver 
must be well washed with boiling water, and may 
be fused with nitre, or tested oft' with lead. 
Parting by cementaticm. 
A cement is prepared, composed of four parts 
of bricks powdered and sifted ; of one part of 
green viti-iol calcined till it becomes red ; and of 
one part of common saft : this is to be made into 
a firm paste ividi a little water, it is called th« 

CEMi;ST nOTAI,. 

The gold to be cemented is reduced into plates 
as thin as money. At the bottom of the crucible 
or cementing pot, a stratum of cement, of the 
thickness of a finger, is put, which is covered witli 
plates of gold ; and so the strata ai'e placed alter- 
nately. The whole is covered with a lid, which 
is luted witli a mi.\turc of clay and sand. Tiiis 



20 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



pot must be placed in a furnace, or oven, heated 
gradually till it becomes red hot, in which it must 
1)6 continued during 24 hours. Tlie heat must not 
jnelt the gold. The pot or crucible is then suft'ered 
to cool; and the sold carefully sejwrated from tlie 
cement, and boiled at different times in a large 
quantity of pure water. It is tiien assayed upon a 
touch-stone, or otherwise; and if it be not suffi- 
ciently pure, it is cetaented a second time. In tliis 
process the vitriolic acid of the bricks, and of the 
calcined vitriol, decomposes the common salt du- 
ring the cementation, by uniting to its alkaline 
base, ■while the marine acid becomes concentrated 
by the heat and dissolves the silver alloyed with tlie 
gold. Tills is a very troublesome process, though 
it succeeds when the portion of silver is so small 
that it would be defended from the action of aqua 
fortis by the superabundant gold; but is little used, 
except to extract silver, or base metals, from the 
suiface of gold, and tlius giving to an alloyed me- 
tal, the colour and appearance of pure gold. 
Dry parting. 
This process is performed by sulphur, which will 
easily unite with silver, but does not attack gold. 
As this dry parting is even troublesome, as well as 
expensive, it ought not to be undertaken but on a 
considcrahle quantity of silver alloyed wUh gold. 
The general procedure is as follows. — The metal 
must he granulated; from 1.8 to 1.5 of it (accord- 
ing as it is richer or poorer in the gold,) is reserv- 
ed, and tlie rest well mingled with an eighth of 
l)Owdered sulphur; and put into a crucible, keeping 
a gentle fire, that the silver, before melting, may 
be tliorov.ghly penetrated by the sulpluir; if the 
fire be hastily urged, the sulphur will be dissipated. 
If to sulphurated silver in fusion, pure silver be 
Jidded, the latter falls to the bottom, and forms 
tiicre a distinct fluid, not miscible with the othei-. 
The particles of gold, having no affinity with the 
sulphurated silver, join themselves to the pure sil- 
ver v»herever they come in contact, and are thus 
transferred from the former into the latter, more 
or less perfectly, according as the pure silver was 
more or less thoroughly diffused through tlie mix- 
ture. It is for this use that a part of tiie granulated 
silver was reserved. The sulphurated mass being 
brought into fusion, and kept melting for nearly an 
Jiour in a covered crucible, one-third of tiie re- 
served grains is thrown in, which, when melted, 
the whole is well stirred, tliat the fresh silver may 
he distributed through the mixed to collect the 
gold from it; this is performed with a wooden rod. 
This is repeated till the whole reserved metal be 
introduced. The sulphurated silver appeiu's, in 
fusion, of a dark brown colour; after it has been 
kept in fusion for a certain time, apart of the sul- 
pliur having escaped from the top, the surface be- 
comes white, and some bright drops of silver about 
the size of a pea, are perceived on it. When this 
happens tlie lire must be immediately discontinued, 
for otherwise more and more of the silver thus 
losing its sulphur, would subside and mingle with 
the jiart at the bottom, in which the gold is col- 
lected. The whole is poured into an iron mortar 
gi-eased and duly heated. The gold diffused at first 
through the wjiole mass, is now found collected in 
a part of it at the bottom, (amounting only to about I 
. -- rflucli as was reserved unsulphurated from the [ 
mas.s) by a chisel or hammer; or more perfectly by 
placing the wholj mass with its bottom upwards 
in a crucible, the sulphurated part quicklv melts, 
leaving, unmelted, that which contains the gold. 
The sulpliurated silver is assayed, by keeping a 
portion of it in fusion in an open crucible, till 
the sulphur is dissipated; and tlien bv dissolving 
it in aqua fortis. It it should still be found to con- 
tain gold, it must be subjected to Uie same treat- 



ment as before. The gold thus collected may ba 
concentrated into a smaller part by repeating th» 
whole process, so that at last it may be parted by 
aqua fortis without too much expense. 



IROX AMD STEEL. 

Expeditimis mode of reducing iron ore into maUo 
able iron. 

The way of proceeding is by stamping, washing, 
&c. the calcine and materials, to separate the ore 
from extraneous matter; then fusing the prepared 
ore in an open furnace, and instead of casting it, 
to suffer it to remain at the bottom of the furnace 
till it becomes cold. 
JSl'ev) method of sliirigling and manufacturing iroru 

The ore being fused in a reverberating furnace, 
is conveyed, while fluid, into an air-furnace, where 
it is exposed to a strong heat, till a bluish flame is 
observed on the surface, it is then agitated on the 
surface, till it loses its fusibility, and is collected 
into lumps called loops. These loops are then put 
into another air-furnace, brought to a white or 
welding heat, and then shingled into half-blooma 
or slabes. They are again exposed to the air-fur- 
nace, and the half-blooms taken out and forged into 
anconies, bars, half-Jlats, and rods iovviire ; while 
the slabe3 are passed, when of a welding heat, 
tlirough the grooved rollers. In this way of pro- 
ceeding, it matters not whether the iron is pre- 
pared from cold, or hot-short metal, nor is there 
any occasion for the use of finery, charcoal, coke, 
chafery or hollow-fire; or any blast by bellows, op 
otherwise; or the use of fluxes, iu any part of the 
process. 

Approved method ofiaelding iron. 

This consists in tlie skilful bundling of the iron 
to be welded; in the use of an extraordinarily large 
forge-hammer, in employing a 6rt///?i§--/Mr7Jftce, in- 
stead of a holloiv-Jire or chafertj ; and in passing 
the iron, reduced to araeltingheat, through grooved 
mill rollers of difterent shapes and sizes, as re- 
quired. — Repertory of Arts, vol. iii. 

Welding steel, or iron and cast-steel. 

Melt borax in an ear-then vessel, and add one- 
tenth of pounded sal ammoniac. When well mixed, 
pour it out on an iron plate, and as soon as it is 
cold, pulverize and mix it with an equal quantity 
of unslaked lime. To proceed to the operation, 
tile iron or steel must be first Iieated to a red hea^ 
and the powder strewed over it; the pieces of metal 
thus prepared are to be .igain put in tiie fire, and 
raised to a heat considerably lower than tlie usual 
welding one, when it is to be witiidrawn and well 
beaten by a hammer, till the surfaces are jierfectly 
united. 

Common hardenijig. 

Iron by being heated red hot, and plunged intD 
cold water, acquires a great degree of hardness. 
This proceeds from the coldness of the watesr 
wliich contracts the particles of the irou into Ie«a 
space. 

Case-hardening. 

Case-hardening is a superficial conversion of iron 
into steel by cementation, it is performed on small 
pieces of iron, by enclosing them in an iron bos, 
containing burnt leather, bone-dust, or any otltey 
phlogistic substance; and exposing them for soma I 
hours to a red heat. The surface of tlie iron tlnrs I 
becomes perfectly metallized. Iron thus tretitbd ■ 
is susceptible of the finest polish. 

7'o convert iron into steel by cementation. 

The iron is formed into bars of a convenient 
size, and then placed in a cementing furnace, witli 
sufficient quantity of cement, which is composed 
of cools of animal or vegetable suhsUuices, miKQil 



METALLURGY. 



21 



Tfifli calcined bones,'&c. The following are veiy 
excellent cements: — 1st, one part of powdered cliar- 
coal, and half a part of wood-ashes well inixed to- 
gether; or, 2(lly, two parts of charcoal, moderately 
powdered, one part of bones, horn, hair, or skins 
of animals, burnt in close vessels to blackness and 
powdered; andhalf a ))art of wood-ashes; mix them 
%vell together. The bars of iron to be converted 
into steel, are placed upon a stratuni of cement, 
and covered all over witli the same; and the vessel 
^hich contains tliem closely luted, must be exposed 
to a red heat for 8 or 10 hours, when the iron will 
be converted into steel. 

Steel is prepared from bar iron by fusion; Avhich 
consists of plunging a bar into melted iron, and 
Keeping it there for some time, by which process 
it is (lonverled into good steel. 

All iron wliich becomes harder by suddenly 
quenching in cold water is called steel; and that 
steel which in quenching acquires the greatest de- 
gree of hanlness in the lowest degree of heat, and 
retains the greatest strength in an(i after induration, 
ouglit to be considered as the best. 

Improved process of hardening steel. 

Articles nianutactured of steel for the purposes 
of cutting, are, almost without an exception, 
hardened from tlie anvil; in otlier words, they are 
taken from the forger to the hardener without un- 
ilei-going any intermediate process; and such is the 
accustomed routine, that the mischief arising has 
escaped observation. The act of forging produces 
a strong scale oi- coating, which is spread over the 
wliole of the blade; and to make liie evil still more 
formidable, tliis scale or coating is unequal in sub- 
stance, varying in ])roportion to the degree of lieat 
communicated to tlie steel in forging; it is, partial- 
ly, almost impenetrable to the action of water 
vlien immersed for the purpose of hardening. 
Hence it is that different degrees of hardness pre- 
vail in nearly every razor manufactured: this is 
evidently a positive defect; and so long as it conti- 
nues to exist, great difference of tem])erature must 
exist likewise. Razor-blades not inifrequently ex- 
hibit the fact here stated in a very striking man- 
ner: what are termed clouds, or parts of unequal 
polish, derive their origin from this cause; and 
clearly and distinctly, or rather distinctly though 
not clearbj, show how far this partial coating has 
extended, and where the action of the water lias 
been yielded to, and where resisted. It certainly 
cannot be matter of astonishment, that so few im- 
provements have been made in the hardening of 
eteel, when the evil here complained of so univer- 
Bnlly obtains, as almost to warrant the supposition 
tliat no attempt has ever been made to remove it. 
The remedy, however, is easy and simple in the 
extreme, and so evidently efficient in its applica- 
tion, that it cannot but excite surprise, that, in the 
present highly improved state of our manufactures, 
such a communication should be made as a disco- 
very entirely new. 

Instead, therefore, of the customary mode of 
hardening the blade from the anvil, let it be passed 
immediately from the hands of the forger to tlie 
grinder; a slight application of the stone will re- 
move the whole of the scale or coating, and the 
razor will then be properly i)repared to undergo 
tlie operation of hardening with advantage. It will 
be easily ascertained, that steel in this slate heats 
in the hre with greater regularity, and that when 
immersed, the obstacles being removed to the im- 
mediate action of tlie water on the body of the 
steel, the latter becomes equally hard from one ex- 
tremity to the otlier. To this may be added, tliat, 
!is the lowest possible heat at \oldch steel becomes 
liard is indiibiiobli/ the best, tlie mode here recom- 
mended will be found Uie only one by which Uie 



process of hardening can be effected with a less 
portion of fire than is, or can be, required in any* 
other way. These observations are decisive, aiul 
will, in all probability, tend to establish in gene- 
ral use what cannot but be regarded as a very iro- 
portant improvement in the manufacturing of edged 
steel instruments. — Rhodes'' JLssay on the JMami- 
fuctiire of a Jlazor. 
Improved mode of hardening steel by hamviering. 

Gravers, axes, and in fact all steel instruments 
that reipiire to be excessively hard, may be easily 
rendered so by heating them to the tempering de- 
gree and hammering them till cold. If a graver, 
it is to be heated to a straw colour, hammered on 
the acute edge of the belly, tempered to the straw- 
colour again, ground and whetted to a proper shape. 
A graver thus prepared will cut into steel, without 
previous decarbonization. If the point should oil 
trial be found not sufficiently iiard, tlie oiieraiion 
of heating, hammering, and tempering, &c. may 
be repeated as often as necessary. 
English cast steel. 

The finest of steel called English cast steel, is 
prepared by breaking to pieces blistered steel, anil 
then melting it in a crucible with a flux compose<l 
of carbonaceous and vitrifiable ingredients. Tiie 
vitrifiable ingredient is used only inasmiicii as it ii 
a fusible body, which flows over the surface of ti>& 
metal in the crucibles, and. prevents tlie access of 
tlie oxygen of the atmosphere. Broken glass j» 
sometimes used for tliis purpose. 
• When thoroughly fused it is cast into ingots, 
whicli, by gentle heating and careful hammering, 
are tilted into bars. By this process the steel be- 
comes more highly carbonized in proportion to tha 
quantity of flux, and in consequence is more brittle 
and fusible than before. Hence it surpasses all 
other steel in uniformity of texture, hardness and 
closeness of grain, and is the material employed in 
all the finest articles of English cutlery. 

To make edge-tools from cast steel ajul iron. 

This method consists in fixing a clean piece of 
wrought iron, brought to a welding heat, in the 
centre of a mould, and then pouring in melted steel, 
so as entirely to envelope the iron ; and then forg- 
ing the mass into the shape required. 
To colour steel blue. 

The steel must be finely polislicd on its surface, 
and tiien exposed to an uniform degi-ee of heat. 
Accordingly, there are three ways of colouring : 
first by a flame producing no soot, as s])irit of 
wine ; secondl)', by a hot plate of iron ; and Ihiixl- 
ly, by wood-asbes. As a very regular degree of 
heat is necessary, wood-a.shes for fine worl8- bears 
the preference. The work must be cohered over 
with them, and carefully watched; when the colour 
is sufficiently heightened, the work is perfect, 'i'liis 
colour is occasionally taken oft" with a very dilute 
marine acid. 

To (listiiigvish steel from iron. 

The principal characters by which steel may be 
distinguished from iron, are as follows : — 

1. After being polished, steel appears of a whiter 
light grey hue, without the blue cast exhibited by 
iron. It also lakes a higher polish. 

2. The hardest steel, when not annealed, apiieara 
gi-anulated, but dull, and without shining fibres. 

3. When steeped in acids the harder the steel is, 
of a darker hue is its surface. 

4. Steel is not so much inclined to rust as iron. 

5. In general, steel has a greater specific gra- 
vity. 

6. By being hardened and wrought, it may be " 
rendered much more elastic than iron. 

7. It is not attracted so strongly by the magnet as 
soft iron. It likewise acquii-es magnetic iirojKa-- 
ties more slowly, but tx-tains ttieiu longer ; fur 



22 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



wliich reason, steel is iised in making needles for 
compasses arnl artificial maijnets. 

8. Steel is ignited sooner, and fuses with less de- 
t;i'ee of iieat, than malleable iron, which can scarce- 
ly be made to fuse without the addition of jiowder- 
fd charcoal ; hy which it is converted into steel, 
and afterwards into crude iron. 

y. Polished ste^-1 is sooner tinged by heat, and 
Uiat with liigher colours than iron. 

10. In a calcining heat, it suffers less loss by 
burning, than soft iron does in the same heat, and 
llie same time. In calcination a light blue flame 
hovers over the steel, either with or without a sul- 
phureous odour. 

11. The scales of steel are harder and sharper I 



than those of iron ; and consequently more fit for 
polishing with. 

12. In a white heat, when exposed to the blast 
of the bellows among the coals, it begins to sweat, 
wet, or melt, partly with liglit-coloured and bright, 
and partly with red sparkles, but less ci-ackling 
than tliose of ii'on. lu a melting heat too, it con- 
sumes faster. 

13. In the vitriolic, nitrous, and other acids, 
steel is violently attacked, but is longer in dissolv- 
ing than iron. After maceration, according as it 
is softer or harder, it appears of a lighter, or dark- 
er grey colour ; while iron on tlie other hand is 
white. 



. Vi^R^ISHSS. 



To !rive a drying qnalitij to poppy oil. 

Into 3 lbs. of pure water, put 1 oz. of sulphate 
of zinc, (white vitriol) and mix the whole with 2 
pounds of oil of pinks, or poppy oil. Expose tliis 
mixture in an earthen vessel capable of standing the 
tire, to a degree of heat sufficient to maintain "it in 
a sli^tit state of ebullition. When one half or two- 
thirds of the water has evaporated, ])our the whole 
into a large glass bottle or jar, and leave it at rest 
till the oil becomes clear. Decant the clearest part 
hy means of a glass funnel, the beak of which is 
stopped with a piece of cork : when the separation 
of the oil from the water is completely efteeted, 
remove the cork stopper, and supplv its place by 
the fore-finger, wdiich must be applied in such a 
manner as to suft'er the water to escape, and to re- 
tain onl}' the oil. 

Poppy-oil when prepared in this manner be- 
comes, after some weeks, exceedingly limpid and 
colourless. 

To give a drying gnnlity to fat oils. 

Take of nut-oil, or linseed-oil, S'llis. white lead, 
slightly calcined, yellow acetate of lead, (sal satur- 
ni) also calcined, sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol) 
each 1 oz. vitreous oxide of lea<l, (litharge) 12 oz. 
a head of garlic, or a small onion. 

When the dry substances are pulverized, mix 
them with the garlic and oil, over a fire capable of 
maintaining the oil in a slight state of ebullition : 
continue it till the oil ceases to throw up scum, till 
it assumes a reddish colour, and till the head of 
garlic becomes brown. A pellicle will then be 
soon formed on the oil, wbich indicates tliat the 
operation is comi)leted. ' Take the vessel from the 
fire, and the pellicle, being precipitated by rest, 
will carry with it all the. unctuous parts which ren- 
dered the oil fat. When the oil becomes clear, 
separate it from the deposit, and put it into wide- 
mouthed bottles, where it will completely clarify 
itself in time, and improve in quality. 

Another method.— Take of vitreous oxide of lead, 
(litharge) 1^ oz. sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol; 
3-8 of an oz. or 3 gros. linseed, or nut-oil, 16 oz. 
The operiition must be conducted as in the preced- 
ingcase. 

The choice of the oil is not a matter of indiRer- 
ence. If it be destined for painting articles exposed 
to the impression of the external air, or for deli- 
cate painting, nut-oil or poppy-oil will be requi- 
site. Linseed oil is used for coarse painting, and 
that sheltered from tlw effeots of the i-ain and of the 



A little negligence in the management of thefire, 
has often an influence on the colour of the oil, to 
which a drying quality is communicated; in this 
case it is not proper for delicate painting. This in- 
convenience may be avoided by tying up the dry- 
ing matters in a small bag; but the dose of the lith- 
arge miist then be doubled. The bag must be sus- 
pended by a piece of packthread fastened to a slick, 
which is made to rest on the edge of the vessel in 
such a manner as to keep the bag at the distance 
of an inch from the bottom of the vessel. A pel- 
licle will be formed as in the first operation, but it 
will be slower in making its appearance. 

Another. — A drying quality may be communi- 
cated to oil by treating, in a heat capable of main- 
taining a slight ebullition, linseed or nut-oil, to 
each ])ound of which is added 3 oz. of vitreous ox- 
ide of lead, (litharge) i-educed to fine powder. 

The preparation ot floor-cloths, and all paintings 
of large figures or ornaments, in which argillaceous 
colours, such as yellow and red boles, Dutch pink, 
kc. are employed, require this kind of prepara- 
tion, that the desiccation may not be too slow; but 
painting for which metallic oxides are used, such 
as pi'cparations of lead, copper, h.c. require only 
the doses before indicated, because these oxides 
contain a great deal of oxygen, and the oil, by their 
contact, acquires more of a drying quality. 

Another. — Take of nut-oil, 2 lbs. common wa- 
ter, 3 do. sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol) 2 oz. 

jVIix these matters, and subject them to a slight 
ebullition, till little water remains. Decant the 
oil which will pass over with a small quantity of 
water, and separate the latter b)^ means of a tun- 
nel. The oil remains nebulous for sometime; after 
which it becomes clear, and seems to be veiy little 
coloured. 

Another. — Take of nut oil, or linseed oil, 6 lbs. 
common water, 4 lbs. sulphate of zinc, 1 oz. garlic, 
one head. 

Mix these matters in a large iron or copper pan; 
then place them over the fire, and maintain the 
mixture in a state of ebullition during the whole 
day; boiling water must from time to time be ad- 
ded, to make up for the loss of that by evapora- 
tion. The garlic will assume a brown appearance. 
Take the pan from the fire, and having suft'ered a 
deposit to be formed, decant the oil, which will 
clarify itself in the vessel. By this process tha 
drying oil is rendered somewhat raorc colourtxli 
it is reserved for delicate coloui's. 



VARNISHES. 



S3 



' JResinous drymg oil. 

Take 10 lbs. of drying nut oil, if the paint is 
destined for external articles, or 10 lbs. of diy- 
ing linseed oil, if for internal, resin, 3 lbs. turpen- 
tine, 6 oz. 

Cause tlie resin to dissolve tlie oil by means of 
a gentle beat. When dissolved and incorporated 
with the oil, add the turpentine: leave the varnish 
at I est, by whicli means it ■will often dej)0sit por- 
tions of resin and other impurities; and then pre- 
serve it in wide moutlied bottles. It must be used 
fresh; when suffered to grow old it abandons some 
of its resin. If tliis resinous oil assumes too much 
consistence, dilute it with a little essence, if in- 
tended for articles sheltered from the sun, or with 
oil of poppies. 

In Switzerland, where the principal part of the 
tBason's work consists of stone subject to crumble 
to pieces, it is often found necessary to give them 
a coating of oil paints to stop tlie effects of this de- 
composition. This painting has a great deal of 
lustre, and when fhe last coating is applied with 
resinous oil, it has the effect of a varnish. To 
give it more durability, the first ought to be ap- 
plied exceedingly warm and with plain oil, or oil 
very little charged, with the grey coloui-, v^■hich is 
added to the two following. — 

Fat copal varnish. 

Take picked copal, 16 ounces, prepared linseed 
oil, or oil of poppies, 8 do. essence of turpentine, 
16 do. 

Lir|Uefy the copal in a matrass over a common 
fire, and tlien add the linseed oil, or oil of poppies, in 
a state of ebullition; when these matters are in- 
corporated, take the matrass from the fire, stir the 
matter till the greatest heat is subsided, and then 
add the essence of turpentine warm. Strain the 
whole, while still warm, through a piece of linen, 
and put the varnish into a wide-mouthed bottle. 
Time contributes towards its clarification; and in 
this manner it acquires abetter quality. 
Varnish for -.vatch cases in imitation of tortoise shell. 

Take copal of an amber cohjur, 6 oz. Venice 
turpentine, l^oz. prepared linseed oil, 24 oz. es- 
sence of turpentine, 6 oz. 

It is customary to place the turpentine over the 
copal, reduced to small fragments, in the bottom 
of an earthen or metal vessel, or in a matrass ex- 
posed to such a heat as to liquefj' the copal: but it 
IS more advantageous to liquefy the latter alone, 
to add the oil in a state of ebullition, then the tur- 

i)entine liquefied, and in the last place the essence, 
f the varnish is too thick, some essence may be 
added. The latter liquor is a regulator for the 
consistence in the hands of an artist. 

To make a colourless copal varnish. 
As all copal is not fit for tliis purpose, in order 
to ascertain such pieces as are good, each must be 
taken separately, and a single (h'op of pure essen- 
tial oil of rosemary, not akered by keeping, must 
be let fall on it. Those pieces which soften at the 
part that imbibes the oil, are good; reduce them 
to powder, wliich sift through a veiy fine hair sieve, 
and put it into a glass, on the bottom of which it 
must not lie more than a finger's breadth thick. 
Pour upon it essence of rosemary to a similar height; 
stir the whole for a few minutes, when the copal 
will dissolve into a viscous fluid. Let it stand for 
two hours, and tlien pour gently on it two or three 
drops of very pure alcohol, which distribute* over 
the oily mass, by inclining the bottle in different 
directions with a very gentle motion. Repeat this 
operation by little and little, till the incorporation 
is effected, and the varnish reduced to a proper de- 
gree of fluidity. It must then be left to stand a 
lew days, and when very clear be decanted off. 
This varnish, thus made without heat, may be ap- 



plied with equal success to pasteboard, •wood, and 
metals, and takes a better polish than any other. 
It maj' be used on ])aintings, the beauty of which 
it greatly Ueis^hlens.—.Monihli/JMag. Oct. 180U. 
Gold coloured copal vanush. 

Take cop.il in powder, 1 ounce, esS: .iial oil of 
lavender, 2 do. essence of tur^ienline, 6 do. 

Put the essential oil of lavender into a matrass 
of a proper size, placed on a sand-batii heated by 
an Argand's lamp, or over a moderate coal firt- . 
Add to the oil while very warm, and at several 
times, tne copal powder, and stir the mixture wiih 
a slick of white wood rounded at the end. \Vhea 
the copal has entii-ely disappeared, add at three 
different times the essence almost in a state of ebul- 
lition, and keep continually stirring tlie mixture. 
When the solution is completed, the result will be 
a varnish of a gold colour, exceedingly durable and 
brilliant, but less (hying than the preceding. 

Anotlier method. — To obtain this varnish colour- 
less, it will be proper to rectify tlie essence of the 
shops, which is often highly coloured, and to give 
it the necessaiy density by exposure to the sun iu 
bottles closed with cork stoppers, leaving an inter- 
val of some inches between the stopper and the 
surface of the liquid. A few months are thus suf- 
ficient to communicate to it the required qualities. 
Besides, the essence of the shops is rarely possess- 
ed of that state of consistence, without having at 
the same time a strong amber colour. 

The varnish resulting from the solution of copal 
in oil of turpentine, brought to such a state as to 
produce the maximum of solution, is exceedingly 
durable and brilliart. It resists the shock of hard 
bodies much better .hanthe enamel of toys, which 
often becomes scratched and whitened by the im- 
pression of repeated friction; it is'susceptible also 
of a fine polish. It is applied with the greatest suc- 
cess to philosophical instruments, and the paintings 
witli which vessels and other utensils of metal are 
decorated. 

Anotlter. — Take copal, 4 ounces, clear turpen- 
tine, 1 oz. 

Put the copal, coarsely pulverized, into a varnish 
pot, and give it the form of a pyramid, which must 
be covered with turpentine. Shut the vessel close- 
ly, and pl.icing it over a gentle fire, increase the 
heat gradually that it may not attack the copal; as 
soon as the matter is well liquefied, pour it upon 
a ])late of copper, and when it has resumed its con- 
sistence reduce it to powder. 

Put half an ounce of this powder into a matrass 
with four ounces of tlie essence of tui-pentine, and 
stir the mixture till the solid matter is entirely dis- 
solved. — Journal de Physique. 

Camphorated copal varnish. 

This varnish is destined for articles which re- 
quire durability, pliableness, and transparency, 
such as the varnished wire-gauze, used in ships in- 
stead of glass. 

Take of pulverized copal, 2 oz. essential oil of 
lavender, 6 do. camphor 1-8 of an oz. essence of 
turpentine, a sufficient quantit}', according to the 
consistence required to be given to the varnish. 

Put into a piiial of thin glass, or into a small ma- 
trass, the essential oil ot ^avender and the camphor; 
and place the mixture on a moderately open fire, 
to bring tlie oil and the camphor to a slight state 
of ebullition; then add the copal powder in small 
portions, which must be renewed as they disappear 
in the liquid. Favour the solution, by continually 
stirring it with a stickof white wood; and when the 
copal is incorporated with the oil, add the essence 
of turpentine boiling; but care must be taken to 
pour iu, at first, only a small portion. 

This varnish is little coloured, and by rest it ac- 
quires a transpareucy which, united to the soliditv 



24 



UNI\^RSAL RECETPT BOOK. 



obsen'ed in almost erery kind of copal varnishes, 
renders it fit to be applied witti great success in 
many cases, and particularly in tlie inf;enious in- 
vention of substituting; varnished metallic gauze in 
the room of Muscovy tale, a kind of mica, in large 
lamince, used for the cabin windows of ships, as 
])resenting; more resistance to the concussion of the 
air during the firing of the guns. Varnished me- 
tallic gauze, of this kind, is manufactured at Rouen. 
Ethereal copal varnish. 

Take of amberry copal, \ ounce, ether, 2 ditto. 

Reduce the copal to a very fine powdei-, and in- 
troduce it liy small portions into the flask which 
contains the ether; close the flask with a glass or a 
cork stopper, and liaving shaken the mixture for 
half an hour, leave it at rest till the next morning. 
In shaking the flask, if the sides become covered 
with small undulations, and if the liquor be not ex- 
ceedingly clear, the solution is not complete. In 
this case, add a little ether, and leave the mixture 
at rest. The varnish is of a white lemon colour. 
The largest quantity of cojial united to ether may 
be a fourth, and tiie least a fifth. The use of copal 
Tarnish made with ether seems, by the expense at- 
tending it, to be confined to repairing tliose acci- 
dents which, frequently happen to the enamel of 
toys, as it will supply the place of glass to the co- 
loured varnishes employed for mending tractures, 
or to restoring the smooth surface of paintings 
\vhich have been cracked and shattered. 

The gi'eat volatility of ether, and in particular 
its high price, do not allow the application of this 
varnish to be recommended, but for the purpose 
here indicated. It has been applied to wood a\ itli 
complete success, and the glazing it produced unit- 
ed lustre to solidity. In consetiuence of the too 
speedy evaporation of the liquid, it often boils un- 
der the brush. Its evaporation, however, may be 
retarded, by spreading over the wood a slight stra- 
tum of essential oil of rosemary, or lavender, or 
even of turpentine, which may afterwards be re- 
moved by a piece of linen rag; what remains is suf- 
ficient to retard the evapor^ition of the ether. 
Twpenime copal varmsh. 

Take of copal, of an amber colour, and in pow- 
der, 1^ ounce, best oil of turpentine, 8 ditto. 

Expose tlie essence to a balneum marine, in a 
wide-mouthed matrass with a short neck; as. soon 
as the water of the bath begins to boil, throw into 
the essence a large pinch of co])al powder, and keep 
the matrass in a state of circular motion. When 
the powder is incorporated with the essence, add 
new doses of it; and continue in this manner till 
you observe that there is formed an insoluble de- 
posit. Then take the matrass from the bath, and 
leave it at rest for some days. Draw off^ the clear 
varnish, and filter it through cotton. 

At the moment when the first portion bf the co- 
pal is thrown into tlie essence, if the powder pre- 
cipitate itself under the form of lumps, it is need- 
less to proceed any further. This efiect arises from 
two causes: either the essence does not possess the 
proper degree of concentration, or it has not been 
sufticiently deprived of water. Exposure to the 
sun, employing the same matrass, to which a cork 
stopper ougiit to be added, will give it the quali- 
ties requisite for the solution of the copal. This 
effect will be announced by the disappearance of 
die portion of copal already put into it. 

Another copal vaniish.—Take of copal, liquefi- 
ed, 3 oz. essence of turpentine, 20 do. 

Place the matrass containing the oil in a balneum 
marix, and when the water boils add the pulveriz- 
ed copal in small doses. Keep stirring the mixture 
and add no more copal till the former be iucorpo- 
i-ated whh the oil. If the oil, inconsequence of its 
i)arlicular disposition, can take up tliree ounces of 



it, add a little more; bnt stop if the liquid becomes 
nebulous; then leave tlie varnish at rest. If it be 
too tiiick, dilute it with a little warm essence, after 
having lieated it in the balneum marise. When 
cold, filter it through cotton, and preserve it in a 
clean bottle. 

This varnish has a good consistence, and is as 
free from colour as the best alcoholic varnish. 
When extended in one stratum over smooth wood, 
whicli has undergone no preparation, it forms a 
very brilliant glazing, which, in the course of two 
days, in summer, acquires all the. solidity that may 
be required. 

The facility which attends the preparation of this 
v.wnish by the new method here indicated, willad- 
mit of its being applied to all coloured grounds 
whichrequire solidity, pure whites excepted; paint- 
ed boxes, therefore, and all small artieleSj colour- 
ed or not coloured, where it is required to make 
the veins appear in all tlie richness of their tones, 
call for the application of this varnish, which pro- 
duces the most beautiful effect, and which is more 
durable than turpentine varnishes con>i)Osed witli 
other I'esinous substances. 

Fat amber varnish. 

Take of amber coarsely powdered, 16 oz. Venice 
turpentine, or gum lac, 2 do. prepared linseed oil, 
10 do. essence of turpentine, 15. or 16 do. 

The circumstances of the process are the same as 
those prescribed for the preparation of the cam- 
phorated copal varnish. 

This varnish was formerly much usetl; but it has 
given place, in part, to that of copal, which is pre- 
ferred on account of its being less coloured. Watin 
introduces more essence and less linseed oil; ex- 
perience and long practice are the only authority 
on which I recommend the adoption of the present 
formula. 

.imbcr varnish xvith essence of turpentine. 

Take of amber liquefied, and separated from the 
oily portions, whkh alter its consistence, 6 ov 7 oz. 

Reduce the amber to powder, and if the opera- 
tion of pounding forms it into a paste, break it with 
your fingers: then mix it with the essence, and 
heat the whole in a balneum marias. It will speedily 
dissolve, and the essence will take up, at the least, 
a fourth ^lart of its weight of the prejiared amber. 

When one coating of it is applied to while smooth 
wood, ])ut without any preparation, it forms a very 
pure and very durable glazing, which speedily 
dries, but slower than copal varnish. 

Fat amber or copal varnish. 

Take of amber or copal of one fusion, 4 oz. es- 
sence of turpentine, drying linseed oil, of each 10 oz. 

Put the whole into a pretty large matrass, and 
expose it to the heat of a balneum maris;, or move 
it over the surflice of an uncovered chafing-dish, 
but without flame, and at the distance from it of 
two or three inciies. When the solution is com« 
pleted, add still a little copal or amber to saturate 
the liquid; then pour the whole on a filter prepar- 
ed with cotton, and leave it to clarify by rest. If 
the varnish is too thick, add a little warm essence 
to prevent the separation of any of the amber. 

This varnish is coloured, but f:u" less so than 
those composed by the iisual methods. When 
spread over white wood, without any preparation, 
it forms a solid glazing, and coramunicates a slight 
tint to the wood. 

If it is re([uired to charge this varnish with more 
copal, or prepared amber, the liquid must be com- 
posed of two parts of essence for one of oil. 
Compound mastic varnish. 

Take of pure alcohol, 32 oz. purified raastic, 6 
oz. gum sandarac, 3 oz. very clear Venice turpen- 
tine, 3 oz. glass, coarsely pounded, 4 oz. 

Reduce the mastic and sandarac to fine powdccj 



VARNISHES. 



25 



mix this powder witk >hite glass, from which the 
finest parts have beer separated bv means of a hair 
sieve; put all the iiigi-edients with alcohol into a 
short-necked matrass, and adapt to it a stick of 
white wood, I'ounded at the end, and of a length 
proportioned to the height of the matrass, that it 
may be put in motion. Expose the matrass in a 
vessel filled with water, made at first a little warm, 
and which must afterwards be maintained in a state 
of ebullition for one or two hours. The matrass 
may be made fast to a ring of straw. 

When the solution seems to be sufficiently ex- 
tended, add the tui-pentine, which must be kept 
separately in a phial or a pot, and which must be 
melted, by immersing it for a moment in a bal- 
neum marise. The matrass must be still left in the 
•water for half an hour, at the end of which it is ta- 
ken off; and the varnish is continually stirred till 
it is somewhat cool. Next day it is to be drawn 
off, and filtered through cotton. By these means 
it will become exceedingly limpid. 

The addition of glass may appear extraordinary; 
but this substance divides the parts of the mixture, 
■o'hich have been made with the dry ingredients, 
and it retains the same quality when placed over 
the fire. It therefore obviates with success two in- 
conveniences, which are exceedingly troublesome 
to those who compose varnishes. In the first place, 
by dividing the matters, it facilitates the action of 
tlie alcohol; and in the second its weight, which 
surpasses that of resins, pi-events tliese resins from 
adhering to the bottom of the matrass, and also the 
coloration acquired by the varnish when a sand- 
bath is employed, as is commonly the case. 

The application of this varnish is suited to arti- 
cles belonging to the toilette, such as dressing- 
boxes, cut-paj)er works, &c. The following pos- 
sess the same brilliancy and lustre; but they have 
more solidity, and are exceedingly drying. 
Camphorated mastic varnish for paintings. 

Take of mastic, cleaned and washed, 12 omices, 
pure turpentine, 1^ oz. camphor, ^ oz. white glass, 
pounded, 5 oz, ethereous essence of turpentine, 36 
ounces. 

Make the varnish according to the method indi- 
cated for Compound Mastic Varnish of the first 
genus. The camphor is employed in pieces, and 
the turpentine is added when the solution of the 
resin is completed. But if the varnish is to be ap- 
plied to old paintings, or paintings which have been 
already varnished, the turpentine may be suppress- 
etl, as this ingredient is here recommended only in 
cases of a first application to new paintings, and 
Just freed from w bite of egg varnish. 

The ethereous essence recommended for varnish, 
is that distilled slowly without any intermediate 
substance, according to the second process already 
given for its rectification. 

The question by able masters, respecting the kind 
of varnish proper to be employed for paintings, has 
never yet been determined. 

Some artists, who have paid particular attention 
to this object, make a mystery of tlie means tliey 
employ to obtain the desired effect. The real end 
may be accomplished by giving to the varnish, des- 
tined for painting, pliability and softness, without 
being too solicitous in regard to what may add to 
its consistence or its solidity. The latter quality 
is particularly requisite in varnishes which are to 
be applied to articles much exposed to fi'iction, 
such as boxes, furniture, &c. 

iS'Aaw's mastic varnish for paintings. 

Bruise the mastic with a muller on a painter's 
Stone, which will detect the soft parts, or tears, 
which are to be taken out, and the remainder put 
into a clean bottle with _§-oot/ spirits of turpentine, 
^twice distilled if you can get it) and dissolve the 



gum by shaking it m your hand for half an hour, 
without heat. When dissolved, strain it through 
a piece of calico, and place it in a bottle well corked, 
so that the light of the sun can strike it, for two 
or three weeks, which will cause a mucilaginous 
precipitate, leaving the remainder as transparent 
as water. It may then be carefully decanted into 
another bottle, and put by for use. The propor- 
tions of gum and alcohol are, mastic, 6 oz. turpen- 
tine, 14 oz. If found on trial to be too thick, thin 
it with tui-pentine. 

To make painter''s cream. 

Painters, who have long intervals between tlieiv 
periods of labour, are accustomed to cover the parts 
they have painted with a preparation which pre- 
serves the freshness of the colours, and which they 
can remove when they resume their work. This 
preparation is as follows: 

Take of veiy clear nut oil, 3 ounces, mastic in • 
tears, pulverized, h oz. sal satui-ni, in powder (ace- 
tate of lead,) 1-3 oTan ounce. 

Dissolve the mastic in oil, over a gentle fire, and 
pour the mixture into a marble mortar, over the 
pounded salt of lead; stir it with a wooden pestle, 
and add water in small quantities, till the matter 
assume'the appearance and consistence of cream, 
and refuse to admit more water. 
Sajularac varnish. 

Take of gum sandarac, S oz. pounded mastic, 2 
oz. clear turpentine, 4 oz. pounded glass, 4 oz. al- 
cohol, 32 oz. Mix and- dissolve as before. 
Compound sandarac vaimish. 

Take of pounded copal of an amber colour, once 
liquefied, 3 oz. gum sandarac, 6 oz. mastic, cleaned, 
3 oz. clear turpentine, Ih oz. pounded glass, 4 oz. 
pure alcohol, 32 oz. Mix these ingredients, and 
pursue the same method as above. 

This varnish is destined for articles subject to 
friction, such as furniture, chairs, fan-sticks, mould- 
ings, &c. and even metals; to which it may be ap)- 
plied with success. The sandarac gives it great 
durability. 

Camphorated sandarac varnish for cut-paper 
ivorks, dressing-boxes, Qc. 

Take of gum sandarac, 6 oz. gum elemi, 4 oz. 
gum animi, 1 oz. camphor, \ oz. pounded glass, 4 
oz. pure alcohol, 32 oz. 

Make the varnish according to the directions al- 
ready given. The soft resins must be pounded 
with the dry bodies. The camphor is to be added 
in pieces. 

Another. — Take of gallipot, or white incense, 6 
oz. gum animi, gum elemi, each 2 oz. pouuded 
glass, 4 oz. alcohol, 32 oz. 

Make the varnish with the precautions indicated 
for the compound mastic varnish. 

The two last varnishes are to be used for ceil- 
ings and wainscots, coloured or not coloured: they 
may even be employed as a covering to parts paint- 
ed with strong colours. 
Spiritous sandarac varnish for nvainscotting small 

articles of furniture, balustrades, and i7iside rail' 

ing. 

Take gum sandarac, 6 oz. shell lac, 2 oz. colo- 
phonium, or I'esin, white glass pounded, clear tur- 
pentine, each 4 oz. pure alcohol, 32 oz. 

Dissolve the varnish according to the directions 
given for compound mastic varnish. 

This varnish is sufficiently durable to be applied 
to articles destined to daily and continual use. Var- 
nishes composed with copal ought, however, in 
these cases to be preferred. 

Another. — There is another composition which, 
without forming part of the compound varnishes, 
is employed with success for giving a polish and 
lustre to fui-niture made of wood: wax forms the 
basis of it. 

C 



26 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Many cabinet-makers are contented with waxing 
cominoii furniture, such as tables, chests of drawers, 
&o. Tills covering, by means ofrepeated frictimi, 
soon RCfjuires a polish and transparency which re- 
•Smble those of varnish. Waxiup; seems to possess 
qualities peculiar to itswlf; but, like varnish, it is 
attended with inconveniences as well as advantages. 
Varnish supplies better the part of glazing; it 
pives a lustre to the wood which it covers, and 
heightens the colours of that destined, in particular, 
for delicate articles. These real and valuable ad- 
vantages are counterbalanced by its want of consis- 
tence: it yields too easily to the shrinking or swell- 
ing of the wood, and rises in scales or splits, on 
being exposed to the slightest shock. These acci- 
dents can be repaired only by new strata of varnish, 
vhich render application to the varnisher neces- 
sary, and occasion trouble and expense. 

Waxing stands shocks; but it does not possess, 
in the same degree as varnisli, the property of 
giving lustre to the bodies on which it is ajiplied, 
and of heightening their tints. The lustre it com- 
municates is dull, but this inconvenience is com- 
pensated by the facility with which any accident 
that may have altered its polish can be repaired, 
by rubbing it with a piece of fine cork. There are 
some circumstances, thei-efore, uifder which the 
application of wax ought to be preferred to that of 
vai-nisli. This seems to he the case in particular 
witli tables of walnut-tree wood, exposed to dailj' 
use, chairs, mouldings, and for all small articles 
* subject to constant employment. 

iiut as it is of importance to make the stratum of 
wax as thin as possible in order that the veins of 
the wood may be more apparent, the following 
process will be acceptable to the reader. 

]S'Ielt over a moderate fire, in a very clean ves- 
sel, two ounces of white or yellow wax; and, when 
liquefied, add four ounces of good essence of tur- 
pentine. Stir the whole until it is entirely cool, 
and the result will be a kind of pomade fit for wax- 
ing furniture, and which must be rubbed over them 
according to the usual method. The essence of 
turpentine is soon dissipate.1; but the wax, which 
by its mixture is reduced to a state of very great 
division, may be extended with more ease, and in 
a more uniform manner. The essence soon pene- 
trates the pores of the v/ood, calls forth the colour 
of ir, causes the wax to adhere better, and the lus- 
tre ^S'hich thence resrJts is equal to that of varnish, 
ivithout having any of its inconveniences. 
Coloured varnish for violins, and other stringed in- 
Atriiments, also for plum tree, mahogany and 
rose-iuood. 

Take gum sandarac, 4 oz. seed lac, 2 oz. mastic, 
Benjamin in tears, each 1 oz. pounded glass, 4 oz. 
Venice turpentine, 2 oz. pure alcohol, 32 oz. 

The gum sandarac and lac render this varnish 
durable: it may be coloured with a little saffron or 
dragon's blood. 

French polish. 
The varnish being prepared, (shell-lac) the 
article to be polished, being finished off as smooth- 
ly as possible with glass-paper, and your rubber 
being prepared as directed below, proceed to the 
operation as follows. The varnish, in a narrow- 
necked bottle, is to be applied to the ndddle of the 
flat face of the rubber, by laying the rubber on the 
mouth of the bottle and shaking up the varnish, 
once ; as by this means the rubber will imbibe the 
proper quantity to varnish a considerable extent of 
surface. The rubber is then to be enclosed in a 
soft linen cloth, doubled ; the rest of the cloth be- 
ing gathered up at the back of the rubber to form a 
handle. Moisten the face of the linen with a little 
ra-w linseed oil, applied with the finger to the 
middle of it. Placing your work opposite the light, 



pass your rubber qmckly and lightly over its surface 
until the varnish becomes dry, or nearly so— chai-ge 
"your rubber as before with varnish, (omitting the 
oil) and repeat the rubbing, until three coats are 
laid on, when a little oil may be applied to the rub- 
ber, and two coats more given to it. Proceeding 
in this way, until the varnish has acquired some 
thickness, wet the iiiside of the linen cloth, before 
applying tlie varnish, with alcohol, and rub quick- 
ly, lightly and uniformly the whole surface. Last- 
ly, wet the linen cloth with a litde oil and alcohol 
without varnisli, and rub as before till drj'. 
To make the rubber. 
Roll up a strip of tldck woollen cloth which has 
been torn off, so as to form a soft elastic edge. It 
should form a coil, from one to three inches in di- 
ameter according to the size of the work. 
Fat var7iish nf a gold colour. 
Take amber, 8 oz. gum lac, 2 oz. drying linseed 
oil, 8 oz. essence of turpentine, 16 oz. 
I Dissolve separately the gum lac, and then add 
the amber, prepared and pulverized, with the lin- 
seed oil and essence very warm. When the whole 
has lost a part of its heat, mix, in relative propor- 
tions, tinctures of annatto, of terra merita, gum gut- 
tte, and dragon's blood. This varnish, when ap- 
plied to white metals, gives them a gold colour. 
Fat turpentine or qolden varnish, being a mordaunt 
to gold and dark colours. 
Take boiled linseed oil, 16 oz. Venice turpen- 
tine, 8 oz. Naples yellow, 5 oz. - 

Heat the oil with the turpentine ; and mix the 
Naples yellow pulverized. 

Naples yellow is an oxide of lead, the composi- 
tion of which will be given when we come to treat 
of colouring substances. It is substituted here for 
resins, on account of its drying qualities, and in 
particular of its colour, which resembles that of 
gold ; great use is made of the varnish in applying 
gold leaf. 

The yellow, however, may be omitted when this 
species of varnish is to be solid and coloured co- 
verings. In this ca^e an ounce of litharge to each 
pound of composition may be substituted in its 
stead, without this mixture doing any injur)' to the 
colour which is to constitute the gi-ound, {la teiiite 
dure). 

To make ttirnbr^s vaimishfor boxxuood. 
Take seed lac, 5 oz. gum sandarac, 2 oz. gu; 
elemi, 1^ oz. Venice turpentine, 2 oz. poundei 
glass, 5 oz. pure alcohol, 24 oz. 

[For a mode of bleaching seed or shell-lac for 
varnishes see " Bleaching." — Am. Ed.] 

The artists of St Claude do not all employ this 
formula, which requires to be corrected on account 
of its too great dryness, which is here lessened by^ 
the turpentine and gum elemi. This compositioa' 
is secured from cracking, which disfigures thesd 
boxes after they have been used for some months, 
Another. — Other turners employ the gum lao 
united to a little elemi and turpentine digested 
some months in pure alcohol exposed to the sun. 
If this method be followed,, it will be proper to 
substitute for the sandarac the same quantity of 
gum lac reduced to powder, and not to add the tur- 
pentine to the alcohol, which ought to be exceed- 
ingly pure, till towards the end of the infusion. 

Solar infusion requires care and attention. Ves- 
sels of a sufficient size to allow the spirituous v:*- 
pours to circulate freely ought to be employed, be- 
cause it is necessary that the vessels should be 
closely shut. Without this precaution the spirits 
would become weakened, and abandon the resin 
which they laid hold of during the first day's expo- 
sure. This perfect obituratioa will not admit of 
tlie vessels being too full. 
In general the varnishes applied to articles wliicb 



VARNISHES. 



27 



may be put into the lathe acquire a great deal of 
brilliancy by polishing, a piece of woollen cloth is 
sufficient for the operation. If turpentine predo- 
minates too much in these compositions the polisli 
does not retain its lustre, because the heat of the 
hands is capable of softening the surface of the 
varnish, and in this state it readily tarnishes. 
To varnish dressing-boxh. 

The most of spirit of wine varnishes are destined 
for covering preliminary preparations, which have 
a certain degree of lustre. They consist of ce- 
ment, coloured or not coloured, charged with land- 
scapes and figures cut out in paper, which produces 
an effect under the transparent varnish : most of 
the dressing-boxes, and other small articles of the 
same kind, are covered with tliis pai-ticular com- 
position, which, in general, consists of three or 
four coatings of Spanish white pounded in water, 
and mixed up with parchment glue. The first 
coating is smoothed with pumice-stone, and then 
polished with a piece of new linen and water. The 
coating in this state is fit to receive the destined 
coloiu", after it has been gi-ound with water, and 
mixed with parchment glue diluted with water. 
The cut figures with whicli it is to be embellished, 
are tlien applied, and a coating of gum or fish- 
glue is spread over them, to prevent the varnisli 
from penetrating to the preparation, and from spoil- 
ing the figures. The operation is finished by ap- 
plying three or four coatings of varnish, which, 
when dry, are polished with tripoli and water, by 
means of a piece of cloth. A lustre is then given 
to the surface with starcli and a bit of doe-skin, or 
verj' soft cloth. 

Gallipot varnish. 

Take of gallipot, or white incense, 12 oz. white 
glass, pounded, 5 oz. Venice turpentine, 2 oz. es- 
sence of turpentine, 32 oz. Make the varnish af- 
ter the white incense has been pounded with the 
glass. 

Some authors recommend mastic or sandarae in 
the room of gallipot ; but the varnish is neither 
more beautiful nor more dui'able. When the co- 
lour is ground with the preceding varnish, and 
mixed up with the latter, which, if too thick, is 
thinned with a little essence, and which is applied 
immediately, and vi-ithout any sizing, to boxes and 
Other ai-ticles, the coatings acquire sufficient 
strength to resist tlie blows of a mallet. Eut if 
the varnish be applied to a sized colour, it 
must be covered with a varnish of the first or se- 
Goad genus. 

Varnish, for electrical purposes. 

Dissolve the best red sealing-wax in alcohol — 
two or three coats will make a complete covering. 
It may be applied to wood or glass. 

Mastic gallipot varmsh, for grinding colours. 

Take of new gallipot, or white incense, 4 oz. 
mastic, 2 oz. Venice turpentine, 6 oz. pounded 
glass, 4 oz. essence of tui-penline, 32 oz. 

When the varnish is made with tlie precautions 
already indicated, add prepared nut oil or linseed 
oil, two ounces. 

The matters ground with this varnish dry moi-e 
slowly; they are then mixed up with the following 
varnish, if it be for common painting, or with par- 
ticular varnishes destined for colours and for 
;grounds. 

Lacquer for brass. 

Take of seed lac, 6 oz. amber or copal, ground 
on porphyry, 2 oz. dragon's blood, 40 grains, ex- 
tract of red sandal wood, obtained Ijy water, 30 
r-ains, oriental saffron, 36 grains, pounded glass, 
oz. very pure alcohol, 40 oz. , 

To apply this varnish to articles or ornaments of 
bi-ftss, expose them to a gentle heat, and dip them 
hito vnruisU Two or three coatings may be ap- 



plied in this manner, if necessary. The varnish is 
durable, and has a beautiful colour. Articles var- 
nished in this manner, may be cleaned with water 
and a bit of dry rag. 

Lacquer for plulosophical instruments. 
This lacquer or varnish is destined to change, or to 
modify the coloui" of those bodies to which it is ap- 
plied. 

Take of gum guttw, f oz. gum sandarae, gum 
elemi, eacli 2 oz. dragon's blood, of the best quali- 
ty, 1 oz. seed lac, 1 oz. terra merita, ^ oz. orien- 
tal saffron, 2 gr. poiuided glass, 3 oz. pure alco- 
hol, 20 oz. 

The tincture of saffron and of terra merita is 
first obtained by infusing them in alcohol for twen- 
ty-four hours, or exposing them to the heat of the 
sun in summer. Tlie tincture must be strained 
through a piece of clean linen cloth, and ought to 
be strongly squeezed. Thistincture is poured over 
the dragon's blood, the gum elerai, the seed lac, 
and the gum guttfe, all pounded and mixed with 
the glass. The vamish is then made according to 
the directions before given. 

It may be applied with great advantage to philo- 
sophical instruments: the use of it might be ex 
tended also to various cast or moulded articles with 
which furniture is ornamented. 

If the dragon's blood be of the first quality, it 
may give too high a colour; in this case tlie dose 
may be lessened at pleasure, as well as that of the 
other colouring matters. 

It is with a similar kind of varnisli that the art- 
ists of Geneva give a golden orange colour to the 
small nails employed to ornament watch cases; 
but they keep tlie process very secret. A beautiful 
bright "colour might be easily communicated to 
this mixture; but they prefer the orange colour 
produced by certain compositions, tlie preparatioa 
of which has no relation to that of varnish, and 
whicli has been successfully imitated with saline 
mixtures, in which orpiment is a principal ingi-e- 
dient. The nails are heated before they ai-e im- 
mersed in the varnish, and they are then spread 
out pn sheets of dry paper. 

Gold-coloured lacquer for brass tuatch cases, ivatch 
keys, qJjc. 

Take of seed lac, 6 oz. amber, gum guttse, each 
2 oz. extract of red sandal wood in water, 24 grains, 
dragon's blood, 60 grains, oriental saffron, 36 
grains, pounded glass, 4 oz. pure alcohol, 36 oz. 

Grind the amber, the seed lac, gum gutta, and 
dragon's blood on a piece of porphyry; then 
mix them with the pounded glass, and add the al- 
coliol, after forming with it an infusion of the saf- 
fron and an extract of the sandal wood. ■ The var- 
nish must then be completed as before. The me- 
tal articles destined to be covered by this varnish 
are heated, and those which will admit of it, are 
immersed in packets. Tlie tint of the varnish may 
be varied by modifying the doses of the colbui-ing 
substances. 

Lacquer of a less drying quality. 

Take of seed lac, 4 oz. sandarae, or mastic, \ 
oz. dragon's blood, | oz. terra merita, gum guttje, 
each 30 grains, pounded glass, 5 oz. clear turpen- 
tine, 2 oz. essence of turpentine, 32 oz. 

Extract by infusion the tincture of the colouring 
substances, and then add the resinous bodies ac- 
cording to tlie directions for compound mastic Ta]> 
nish. 

Lacquer or varnishes of this kind are called 
changing, because, when applied to metals, such as 
copper, brass, or hammered tin, or to woodea 
boxes and other furniture, they communicate to 
tliem a more agreeable colour. Besides, by their 
contact wiili the common metals, they acquire a 
lustre which approaches that of the precious me* 



lee 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tals, antl to Tvhich, in consequence of peculiar in- 
trinsic qualities or certain laws of convention, a 
nrach fjrcater value is attached. It is by means ot 
these changing varnishes, that artists are able to 
communicate to their leaves of silver and copper, 
those shininj^ colours observed in foils. Tiiis ])ro- 
<Iuct of industry becomes a source of prosperity to 
tiie manufacturers of buttons and ^vorks formed 
■with foil, which in the hands of the jeweller con- 
ti'ibutes with so much success to produce tiiat re- 
flection of tlie rays of light which doubles the lus- 
tre and sparkling quality of precious stones. 

It is to varnish of tliis'kind that we arc indebted 
for the manufactory of gilt leather, which, taking 
refuge in England, has given place to that of papier 
mnciiee, which is employed foi* the decoration of 
palaces, theatres, &c. 

In tl»e last place, it is by the effect of a foreign 
tint, obtained from the colouring part of saffron, 
tliat the scales of silver disseminated in confection 
Whyacinthe reflect a beautiful gold colour. 

The colours transmitted by different colouring 
substances, require tones suited to the objects for 
which they are destined. The artist has it in his 
own power to vaiy tliem at pleasure, by the ad- 
dition of annattoto the mixture of dragon's blood, 
saffron, kc. or some changes in the doses of the ' 
mode intended to be made in colours. It is there- 
fore impossible to give limited formulse. 
To make lacquers of various tints. 

There is one simple method by which artists 
may be enabled to obtain all the different tints they 
requii'e. Infuse separately 4 ounces of gum guttae 
lu 3'2 ounces of essence of turpentine, and 4 ounces 
of dragon's blood, and an ounce of annatto also in 
separate doses of essence. These infusions may be 
easily made in the sun. After fifteen days' expo- 
sure pour a certain quantity of these liquors into a 
flask, and by varying the doses different shades of 
colour will be obtained. 

These infusions may be employed also for chang- 
ing alcoholic varnishes; but in this case the use of 
saffron, as well as that of red sandal wood, which 
does not succeed with essence, will soon give the 
tone necessary for imitating with other tinctures 
tlie colour of gold. 

JMordant varnish for gilding. 

Take of mastic, I ounce, gum sandarac, 1 do. gum 

rittse, ^ do. turpentine, ^ do. essence of turpentine, 
do. 

Some artists who make use of mordants, substi- 
tute for the turpentine an ounce of the essence of 
lavender, which renders this composition still less 
diying. 

In general, the composition of mordants admits 
of modifications, according to the kind of work for 
which they are destined. The a[)plication of them, 
however, is confined chiefly to gold. M'hen it is 
required to fill up a design with gold le.if on any 
ground whatever, the composition, wliich is to serve 
as the means of union between the metal and the 
ground, ought to be neither too thick nor too fluid; 
because both these circumstances are equally in- 
jurious to delicacy in the strokes; it will be re- 
cjuisite also that the composition should not dry 
till tlie artist has completed his design. 
Other mordants. 

Some prepare their mordants with Jew's pitch 
and drying oil diluted with essence of turpentine. 
They employ it for gilding pale gold, or for bronz- 
ing. 

Other artists imitate the Chinese, and mix with 
their mordants colours proper for assisting the tone 
vhich they are d<;sirous of giving to the gold, such 
as yellow, red, &c. 

Others employ merely £it varnish, to which they 
add a little red oxide_of lead (minium). 



Others make use of thick glne, in which they 
dissolve a little honey. This is what they call bat~ 
ture. When they are desirous of heightening the 
colour of the gold, they employ this glue, to which 
the gold leaf adheres exceedingly well. 

Another. — The ((ualities of the following are fit 
for every kind of application, and particularly to 
metals. Expose boiled oil to a strong heat in a 
pan: when a black smoke is disengaged from it, 
set it on fire, and extinguish it a few moments after 
by putting on the cover of the pan. Then pour the 
matter still warm into a heated bottle, and add to 
it a little essence of turpentine. This mordant 
dries very speedily; it has body and adheres to, 
and strongly retains, gold leaf, when applied to 
wood, metals, and other substances. 
To prepare a composition for making coloured 
dra~mngs and prints resemble paintings in oil. 
Take of Canada balsam, 1 ounce, spirit of tur- 
pentine, '2 ounces: mix them together. Before 
this composition is applied, the drawing or print 
should be sized with a solution of isinglass in wa- 
ter, and when dry, apply the varnish with a camel 
hair brush. 

Jl vaiTiish to colour baskets. 
Take eitlier red, black, or white sealing wax, 
which ever colour you wish to make: to every 2 
ounces of scaling wax, add 1 ounce of spirit of 
wine: pound the wax fine, then sift it through a 
fine lawn sieve, till you have made it extremely 
fine; put it into a large phial with the spirit ot 
wine, shake it, let it stand near the fire 48 hours, 
shaking it often; tlien, with a little, brush the 
baskets all over with it; let them dry, and do iheia 
over a second time. 

To prepare anti-attrition. 
According to the specification of the patent, this 
mixture consists of one hundred weight of plum- 
bago, to four hundred of hog's lard, or otheif 
grease ; the two to be well incorporated. The 
application is to prevent the eftects of friction in 
all descriptions of engines or machines; and a suf- 
ficient quantity must be rubbed over the surface of 
the axle, spindle, or other part where the bear- 
ing is. 

Varnish for pales and coarse -wood tvork. 
Take any quantity of tar, and grind it with as 
much Spanish brown as it will bear, wi.thout ren- 
dering it too thick to be used as a paint or varnish, 
and then spread it on the pales, or other wood, as 
soon as convenient, for it quickly hardens by 
keeping. 

This mixture must be laid on the wood to be 
varnished by a large brush, or house painter's 
tool; and the work should then be kept as free 
froni dust and insects as possible, till the varnish 
be thoroughly dry. It will, if laid on smootlj 
wood, have a veiy good gloss, and is an excellent 
preservative of it against moisture; on which ac- 
count, as well as its being cheaper, it is far pre- 
feralile to painting, not only for [jales, but for Avea- 
ther boarding, anil all other kinds of woodwork 
fur grosser purposes. Where the glossy brown 
colour is not liked, the work may be made of a 
greyish brown, by mixing a small proportion of 
white lead, or whiting and ivory black, with the 
Spanish brown. 

A black varnish for old strain or chip hats. 
Take of best black sealing wax, -^ an ounces 
rectified spirit of wine, 2 ounces; powder the seal- 
ing wax, and put it with the spirit of wine, into a 
four ounce phial; digest them in a sand heat, ov 
near a lire, till the wax is dissolved; lay it oc 
warm with a fine soft hair-brush, before a fire or 
in the sun. It gives a good stift'ness to old straur 
hats, and a beautiful gloss, equal to new, Mid n> 
sists wet. 



VARNISHES. 



29 



Tb paint sailcloth, &c. so as to be pliant, durable, 
and impervious to luate.r. 

Tliis process, which is extracted from the 
Transactions of the Society of Arts, is now uni- 
versally practised in the public dock-yards. 

The paint usually laid upon canvas hardens to 
such a degree as to crack, and eventually to break 
the canvas, which renders it unserviceable in a 
short time: but the canvas painted in the new 
manner is so superior, that all canvas used in the 
navy is thus prepared; and a saving of a guinea is 
made in every one hundred square yards of can- 
vas so painted. 

The old mode of painting canvas was to wet 
the canvas, and prime it with Spanish brown; 
then to give it a second coat of a chocolate colour, 
made by mixing Spanish brown and black paint; 
and, lastly, to finish it with black. 

The new method is to grind 9G lbs. of English 
ochre with boiled oil, and to add 16 lbs. of black 
paint, which mixture forms an inditlerent black. 
A pound of yellow soap, dissolved in 6 pints of wa- 
ter over the fire, is mixed, while hot, with the 
paint. This composition is then laid upon ttie can- 
vas (without being wetted, as in the usual way,) 
Bs stiff as can conveniently be done with the brush, 
so as to form a smooth surface; the next day, or 
still better, on the second day, a second coat of 
ociire and black (without any, or but a very small 
portion of soap) is laid on, and allowing this coat 
an intermeiliaie day for drying, the canvas is then 
finished with black paint as usual. Three days 
i)eing then allowed for it to dry and harden, it 
does not stick together when taken down, and 
folded in cloths containing 60 or 70 yards each; 
and canvas finished entirely with the composition, 
leaving it to dry one day between each coat, will 
not stick together, if laid in quantities. 

It has been ascertained from actual trials, that 
the solution of yellow soap is a preservative to red, 
yellow, and black paints, when ground in oil and 
put into casks, as they acquire no improper hard- 
ness, and dry in a remarkable manner when laid 
on with the brush, without the use of the usual 
diying articles. 

It is surprising that the adoption of soap, which 
is so well known to be miscible with oily substan- 
ces, or at least, the alkali of whicii it is composed, 
Las not already been brought into use in the com- 
position of oil colours. 

Ckiluured composition for rendering linen and cloth 
impenetrable to -uiattir. 

Begin by washing the stutf with hot water; then 
dry and rub it between the hands until such time 
as it becomes perfectly supple; afterwards spread 
it out by drawing it into a frame, and give it, with 
the aid of a brush, a first coat composed of a mix- 
ture of 8 quarts of boiling linseed oil, 15 grammes 
of calcined amber and acetate of lead, (of each 7^ 

frammes) to which add 90 grammes of lamp- 
lack. For the second coat use the same ingre- 
dients as above, except the calx of lead. This coat 
■will give a few hours, according to the season; at- 
terwards take a dry plaisterer's brush, and rub the 
stuff strongly with it, when the hair, by this opera- 
tion, will become very smooth. The third and 
last coat will give a perfect and durable jet black. 
Or ratiier, take 12 quarts of boiling linseed oil, 
90 grammes of amber, 15 grammes of acetate of 
K-ad, 7^ sulphate of zinc, 15 Prussian blue, and 
"^ verdigris; mix them very fine with a lillle oil, 
and add 120 grammes of lamp-black. These coats 
are used at discretion, as is done witli painting. — 
Annates de P Indus, 1821. 

'J'o thicken linen cloth for screens and bed testers. 

Grind whiting with zinc, and to prevent its 

sradiin^j, add a little honey to itj then take a soft 



brush, and lay it upon the cloth, and so do two or 
three times, suffering it the meanwhile to dry be- 
tween layings on, and for the last laying, smooth 
it over witii Spanish white, ground with linseed 
oil, the oil being first heated, and mixed with a 
small quantity of the litharge of gold, the better ta 
endure tiie weather, and so it will be lasting. 
Common leax, or varnished cloth. 

The manufacture of this kind of cloth is very 
simple. The cloth and linseed oil are the princi- 
pal articles required for the establishment. Com- 
mon canvas, of an open and coarse texture, is ex- 
tended on large frames, placed under sheds, the 
sides of which are open, so as to afford a free pas- 
sage to the external air. The manner in which 
the cloth is fastened to these frames is as follow?- 
it is fixed to each side of the frame by hooKs 
which catch the edge of the cloth, and by' pieces 
of strong packtiiread passing through holes at the 
other extremity of the hooks, which are tied round 
moveable pegs placed in the lower edge of the 
frame. The mechanism by which the strings of h 
violin are stretched or unstretched, will give some 
idea of the arrangement of the pegs employed foT 
extending the cloth in this apparatus. By these 
hieans the cloth can be easily stretched or relaxed, 
v/hen the oily varnish has exercised an action on 
its texture in the course of the operation. Tlie 
whole being thus an-anged, a liquid paste made 
with dr}'ing oil, which may be varied at pleasure, 
is applied to the cloth. 

To make liqidd paste ivith drying oil. 

Mix Spanish white or tobacco-pipe clay, or any 
other argillaceous matter, with water, and leave it 
at rest some hoiH'S, which will be sufficient to sepa- 
rate the argillaceous parts, and to produce a sedi- 
ment. Stir the sediment with a broom, to com- 
plete the division of the e.irth ; and after it has 
rested some seconds, decant the turbid water into 
an earthen or wooden vessel. By this process the 
earth will be separated from the sand and other 
foreign bodies, which are precipitated, and which 
must be thrown away. If the earth has been 
washed by the same process, on a large scale, it is 
divided by kneading it. The supernatant water is 
thrown aside, and the sediment placed in sieves, 
on pieces of cloth, where it is suffered to drain: it 
is then mixed up with oil rendered drying by a 
large do«e of litharge, that is about a fou. th of the 
weight of the oil. The consistence of thin paste 
being given to the mixture, it is spread over the 
cloth by means of an iron spatula, the length o5 
which is equal to that of the breadth of the cloth. 
This spatula performs the part of a knife, and 
pushes forward the excess of matter above tlie 
quantity sufficient to cover the cloth. When the 
first stratum is dry, a second is applied. The ine- 
qualities produced, by the coarseness of the cloth, 
or by an unequal extension of the paste, aro 
smoothed down with pumice-stone. The pumice- 
stone is reduced to powder, and rubbed over the 
cloth with a piece of soft serge or cork dipped in 
water. The cloth must then be well washed in 
water to clean it; and after it is dried, a varnish ol 
gum lac dissolved in linseed oil boiled with tur- 
pentine, is to be applied to it. 

This preparation produces yellowish varnished 
cloth. When wanted black, mix lamp-black witli 
the Spanish white, or tobacco-pipe clay, which 
forms the basis of the liquid paste. Various 
shades of grey may be obtained, according to the 
quantity of lamp-black which is added. Umber, 
Cologne earth, and different ochry argillaceoas 
earths, may be used to vary the tints, without 
causing any addition to the expense. 

To prepare Jiiw printed vaiviished cloths. 

The> process cliufi described for manufacturiin 



so 



UNIVERS.VL RECEIPT BOOK. 



common varnished and polislicd cloths, nmy serve 
to give some idea of that emiiloYcd for making 
fine clottis of the same kind, decorated with a co- 
loured impression. The mamifaclories of (ier- 
inany have varnished cloths embellished with 
Jarpe and small subjects, figures, and landscapes, 
■well executed, and which are destined for cover- 
ing furniture subjected to daily use. 

This process, wliich is only an improvement of 
the former, recpiires a finer paste, and cloti\ of a 
more delicate texture. 'I'he stratum of paste is 
applied in the same manner, and wlien dry and 
polished, the cloth is taken from the frame and re- 
moved to the painter's table, where the art of the 
colourist and designer is displayed under a thou- 
sand forms; and, as in that of jjrintcd cottons, ex- 
hibits a richness of tints, and a distribution of sub- 
jects, which discover taste, and insure a ready sale 
for the articles manufactured. 

The processes, however, employed in these two 
arts to extract the colouring parts are not the same. 
In the art of cotton-printing the colours ai'e ex- 
tracted by the bath, as in that of dyeing. In print- 
ing varnished clotiis, tlie colouring parts arc the 
result of the union of drying oil mixed with var- 
nish; and the dift'ereut colours employed in oil 
painting or painting in varnish. 

The varnish applied to common oil cloth is com- 
posed of gum lac and drying linseed oil; but that 
destined for printed varnished cloths requires 
some choice, both in regard to the oil and the re- 
sinous matter which gives it consistence. Pre- 
f tared oil of pinks and copal form a varnish veiy 
ittle coloured, pliable, and solid. 

To prepare varnished silk. 

Varnished silk, for making umbrellas, capots, 
coverings for hats, &c. is prepared in the same 
manner as the varnished and polished clotlis al- 
ready described, but with some variation in the 
liquid paste or varnish. 

If the surface of tlie silk be pretty large, it is 
made fast to a wooden frame furnished with liooks 
and moveable pegs, such as that used in the manu- 
facture of common varnished cloths. A soft paste, 
composed of linseed oil boiled with a fourth part 
of litharge; tobacco pipe clay, dried and sifted 
througii a silk-sieve, 16 parts; litharge ground on 
porphyry with water, dried and sifted in the same 
manner, 3 parts; and larnp-black, 1 part. This 
paste is then spread in a uniform manner over 
the surface of the silk, b}'fmeans of a long kidfe, 
liaving a handle at each extremity. In summer, 
tuenty-four hours are sufticient for its desiccation. 
When dry, the knots produced by the inequalities 
of the silk are smoothed witli pumice-stone. Tliis 
operation is performed with water, and when 
finished, the surface of the silk is washed. It is 
then suft'ered to dry, and flat copal varnish is ap- 
plied. 

If it be intended to polish this varnish,' ap^ily a 
second stratum; after wliich polish it with «i ball 
of cloth and very tine tripoli. The varnishol silk 
thus made, is veiy black, exceedingly pliable, and 
lias a fine polish. It may be rumpled a th'usand 
ways without retaining a'ny fold, or even trie mark 
of one. It is light, and thereby proper for .cover- 
ings to hats, and for making cloaks and caps so 
useful to travellers in wet weather. 

Another method.— A. kind of varnished silk, 
•which has only a yellowisii colour, and which suf- 
fers the texture of tlie stutV to ap[iear, is prepared 1 
■with a mixture of 3 parts boiled oil of pinks, and 1 ! 
part of fat copal varnish, which is extended with a 
coarse brush or knife. Two strata are sufficient 
•when oil has been freed from its greasy particles 
over a slow fire, or wlien boiled with a foui th part 
of its weight of litharge. 



The inequalities are removed by pumice-stone 
and water; after which the copal varnish is applied. 
This simple operation gives to white silk a yellov 
colour, which arises from the boiled oil and the 
varnisii. 

This varnislipd silk possesses all those qualities 
ascribed to certain preparations of silk which are 
recommended to l)e worn as jackets by persons- 
subject to rlieumatism. 

To prepare water proof boot,?. 

Hoots and shoes may be rendered impervious to 
water l)y the following composition. — 'I'ake 3 oz. 
of spermaceti, and melt it la a pipkin, or other 
earthen vessel, over a slow fire : add tliereto six 
drachms of Indian rubber, cut into slices, and these 
will presently dissolve. Then add, seriatim, of tal- 
lo^v, 8 ounces; hog's lard, 2 ounces; amber var- 
nisii, 4 ounces. Mix, and it will be fit for use im- 
mediately. 3^hc boots or other material to bo 
treated, are to receive two or three coats, with a 
common blacking brush, and a fine polish is tlie 
result. 

To make leather and other articles water proof. — 
Patent. 

Dissolve ten pounds of Indian rubber, cut into 
bits, the smaller the belter, in twenty gallons of 
pure spirits of turpentine, by putting tliem to- 
gether into a tin vessel that will hold forty gallons, 
'i'his vessel is to be immersed in cold water, con- 
tained in a boiler, to which fire is to b'e applied so 
as to make the -water boil, occasionally supplying 
what is lost by evaporation. Here it is to remain 
until a perfect solution of the caoutchouc in the 
turpentine is obtained. One hundred and fifty 
pounds of fjitre bees wax are now to be dissolved in 
one hundred gallons of pure spirits of turpentine, 
to which add twenty pounds of Burgundy pitch 
and ten pounds of gum fi-ankincense. Tlie solu- 
tion to be obtained as directed for the caoutchouc. 
Mix the two solutions, and, when cold, add ten gal- 
lons of cojial varnish, and put the wliolc into a re- 
servoir, diluting it with one hundred gallons of 
lime water, five gallons at a time, and stirring it 
well up for six or eight hours in succession, which 
stirring must be repeated when any of the compo- 
sition is taken out. If it is wanted black, mis l2U 
pounds of lamp-black with 20 gallons of turpen- 
tine, (wliich '-'0 gallons should be deducted from 
tiie ([uantity previously employed) and add it pr»>- 
viously to putting iu the lime water. 

To use it, lay it on the leather with a painter's 
brush, and rub it in. 

To make black japan. 

Take of boiled oil, 1 gallon, limber, 8 oz. as- 
phaltum, 3 oz. oil of turpentine, as much as will 
reduce it to the thinness required. 
To preserve tiles. 

After the adoption of glazing, varnishing, &c. 
to increase the hardness of tiles, tarring has been 
found completely to stop their pores, and to ren- 
der them imper^ious to water. Tlie process is 
practicable, and not expensive. Lime and tar, 
wliale oil or dregs of oil, are equally adapted to 
the ])urpose, and still cheaper. Tarring is parti- 
cularly efficacious when tiles are cracked by thu 
frost. It is calculated, that the expense of coal tar 
for a roof of a middling extent, and supposing such 
a roof to retiuire One hundred weight, would uot 
exceed two guineas. 

To bronze plaster fg^ires. 
-For the ground, after it has been sized and ru(>- 
hed down, take Prussian blue, verditer, and spruce 
ochre. Grind them separately in water, turpen- 
tine, or oil, according to the work, and mix tlient 
in such iiroportiousas will produce the colour de- 
sired. 'I'hen grind Dutch metal in a part of this 
composilioa: laying I: witli judgment on the pro- 



VARNISHES. 



31 



minent parts of the figure, whicn pioduces a grand 
eftect. 

To polish varnished fumitwe. 

Take two ounces of tripoli powdered, put it in 
an earthen pot, with water to coyer it; then take a 
piece of white flannel, lay it over a piece of cork 
or i-ubber, and jiroceed to polish the varnish, al- 
ways welting it with the tripoli and water. It will 
be known when the process is finii^^hed by w iping 
• a part of the work ■with a sponge, and observing 
vhether there is a fair even gloss. Wlien tliis is 
tlie case, take a bit of niuttou suet' and line Hour, 
and clcau the work. 

To polish wood. 

Take a piece of jiumice stone, and water, and 
pass regularly over the work until the rising of 
the grain is cut down; then take powdered tripoli 
and boiled linseed oil, and polish tlie work to a 
bright surface. 

To polish brass ornaments inlaid intoood. 

File the brass very clean with a smooth file; 
then take some ti-ipoli powdered very fine, and 
mix it with the linseed oil. Dip in this a rubber 
of hat, with vhich x'olisli tlie work until tlie de- 
sired effect is obtained. 

If the work is ebony, or black rose wood, take 
some elder coal powdered very fine, and apply it 
dry after you liave done willi the ti-ipoli, and it 
will produce a superior polish. 

The French mode of ornamenting with brass 
difi'ers widely from ours; theirs being chiefly wa- 
ter-gilt [ormoidu), excepting the flutes of columns, 
kc. which are polished very high with rotten stone, 
ond finished wiiii elder coal. 

To browngiin barrels. 

After the barrel is finished rub it over with aqua 
fortis, or spirit of salt, diluted with water. Tiien 
lay it by for a week, till a complete coat of oil is 
formed. A little oil is then to be .applied, and 
after rubbing the surface dry, polish it witlvahard 
brush and a little bees' wax. 

To make blacking. 

Take of ivory black and treacle, each 12 oz. 
S|)ermaceti oil, i- oz. while wine vinegar, 4 pints. 

Mix. This blacking, recommended by Mr 
Gray, lecturer on the materia medica, is superior . 
in giving leather a finer polish than any of those 
tliat are advertised, as they all contain sulphuric 
acid, (oil of vitriol,) which is necessary to give it 
.tlie polishing quality, but it renders leatiier rotten, 
:uid very liable to crack. 

To make liquid blacking. 

Take of vinegar. No. IS, (the common,) 1 quart, 
ivory-black, and treacle, each 6 oz. vitriolic acid, 
and spermaceti, (or common oil,) eacli 1^ oz. 

Mix the acid and oil first, afterwards add the 
Other ingredients; if, when it is used, it does not 
<hy quiclv enough on the leather, add a little more 
of the vlti-iol, a little at a time, till it dries quick 
enough. When there is too much of the vitriolic 
acid, which is various in its strength, tlie mi.xture 
"will give it a brown colour. 

N.iJ. Vinegar is sold by numbers, viz. No. IS 
(the weakest), T.9, 20, 21, 22. Tlie celebrated 
blacking is made with No. 18. When this mixture 
is properly finislied, the ivory-black will be about 
one-tJiird the contents of the bottle. 
To make Hailcij^s cumpositioiifur blacking cakes. 

Take gum tragacantii, one ounce; neat's foot oil, 
superfine ivory-black, deep blue, prepared from 
iron and copper, each two ounces; brown sugar 
candy, river water, eiclx four ounces. Having mix- 
ed well these ingredients, evaporate the Avaler, 
and form youi- c;dces. 

To make blacking balls for shoes. 

Take mutton suet, 4 ounces; bees' wax, one 
ouncttj sweet oil, one ounce; sugar candy and gum- 



I arable, one drachm each, in fine powder: melt 
these well together over a gentle fire, and add 
thereto about a spoonful of turpentine, and lamp- 
lilack sufficient to give it a good black colour. 
While hot enough to i-un, make it into a ball, by 
pouring the liquor into a tin mould; or let it stantl 
till almost cold: or it may be moulded by the hand. 
To make liqidd japan blaclmig. 

Take 3 ounces ot ivory-black, 2 oz. of coarse 
sugar, one ounce of sulphuric acid, one ounce o2 
muriatic acid, one table-spoonful of sweet oil and 
lemon acid, and one pint of vinegar. First mix the 
ivoiy-black and sweet oil together, tlien the lemon 
and sugar, with a little vinegai-, to qualify the black- 
ing; then add tlie sulphuric and mui-iatic acids, and 
mix them all well together. 

Observation. Tlie sugar, oil, and vinegar pre- 
vent the acids from injuring, the leather, and add 
to the lustre of the blacking. 

Ji cheap method. — Ivory-black, 2 ounces; brown 
sugar, one ounce and a half; and sweet oil, half a 
t,able-spoonful. Mix tliem well, and then gradually 
add half a pint of small beer. 

.Allot her method. — A quarter of a pound of ivory- 
black, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a table- 
spoonful of flour, a piece of tallow about the size 
of a walnut, and a small piece of gum-arabic. 
Make a paste of the flour, and whilst hot, put i;i 
tlie tallow, then the sugar, and afterwards mix the 
whole well together in a quart of water. 
To render leather ivater proof. 

This is done by rubbing or brushing into the 
leather a mixture of drying oils, and any of the ox- 
ides or calxes of lead, copper, or iron; or by sub- 
stituting any of the gummy resins, in the room of 
the metallic oxides. — liepertory, vol. x. 

To make varnish for coloured draivings. 

Take of Canada balsam one ounce, spirit of tur- 
pentine, two ounces. Mix them togetlier. Before 
this composition is applied, tlie draw.'-^g or print 
should be sized witli a solution of isinglass in wa- 
ter; and when dry, apply the varnish w iiii a caiucl'ii- 
hair brush. 

To make furniture paste. 

Scrape four ounces of bees' wax into a basin, and 
add as much oil of turpentine as will moisten it 
through. Now powder a quarter of an ounce of 
resin, and add as much Indian red as will bring it 
to a deep mahogany colour. When the composi- 
tion is properly stirred uji, it will prove an excel- 
lent cement or paste for blemishes in mahogany, 
and other furniture. * " 

Another method, — Scrape four ounces of bees' 
wax as before. To a pint of oil of turpentine, in a 
glazed pipkin, add an ounce of alkanet-root. Co- 
ver it close, and put it over a slow fire, allending 
it carefully that it may not boil over, or catch lii-e. 
When the liquid is of a deep red, add as much of 
it to the wax as will moisten it through, also a 
quarter of an ounce of powdered resin. Cover the 
whole close, and let it stand six hours, when it will 
be fit for use. 

To make furniture oil. 

Take linseed-oil, put it into a glazed pipkin 
with as much alkanet-root as it will cover. Let it 
boil gently, and it will become of a strong red co- 
lour: when cool it will be fit for use. 
To make -wash for preserving drawings made -wil/i 
a black lead (jencil. 

A thin wash (if isinglass will fix either black 
lead, or hard black chalk, so as to prevent their 
rubbing out; or the same ellcct may be. produced 
by tlie simple application of skimmed niil!<., as has 
been proved by frequent trials. Tiie best way of 
using the latter is to lay the drawing Hat upon the 
surface of the milk; and then taking it up hy one 
corner till it drains atid dries. The milk must be 



S2 



nflVERSAL UECEIPT BOOK. 



perfectly free from cream, or i{ ;till grease tlie pa- 
per. 

jTo make varnish fur -wood, ivJa :h resists the action 
ofhoiUnjr ivater.' 

Take a pound and a half of linsecdroil, and boil 
It in a red copper vessel, not tinned, holdinp; sus- 
pended over it, in a small linen bag, five ounces of 
litharge, and three ounces of pulverized minium; 
taking care that the bag does not touch the bottom 
of the vessel. Continue the ebullition until the oil 
acquires a deep brown colour; then take away the 
bag, and substitute another in its place, containing 
a clove of garlic; continue the ebullition, and re- 
new the clove of garlic seven or eight times, or 
rather put them all in at once. 

Then throw into the vessel a pound of yellow 
amber, after having melted it in the following man- 
ner: — Add to the pound of amber, well pulveriz- 
ed, two ounces of linseed-oil, and place the whole 
on a strong fire. When the fusion is complete, 
pour it boiling into the prepared linseed-oil, and 
continue to leave it boiling for two or three minutes, 
stirring the whole up well. It is then left to settle; 
the composition is decanted and preserved, when 
it becomes cold, in well corked bottles. 

After polishing the wood on which tins varnish is 
to be applied, you give to the wood the colour re- 
quired; for instance, for walnut wood, a slight 
ooat of a mixture of soot witli the essence of tur- 
pentine. When thi.s colour is perfectly dry, give 
It a coat of varnish with a fine sponge, in order to 
spread it very equal; repeat these coats four times, 
taking care always to let the preceding coat be 
dried. — Annales deV Industrie, 1821. 
To restore the blackness of old leather chairs, &C. 

Many families, especially in the couulr}', pos- 
sess chairs, settees, Sec. covered with black leather: 
these, impaired by long use, may be restored near- 
ly to their original good colour and gloss by the 
following easy and approved process: — Take two 
yolks of new laid eggs, and the white of one. Let 
tliese be well beaten up, and then shaken in a glass 
vessel or jug, to become like thick oil; dissolve in 
about a taWe-spoonful or less of geneva, an ordi- 
nary tea-lump of loaf-sugar; make this thick with 
ivory black, well worked up with a bit of stick; 
mix with theegg for use. Let this be laid on as 
blacking ordinarily is for shoes; after a very few 
minutes, polish with a soft, veiy clean brush, till 
completely dry and shining, theu let it remain a 
day to haraen. 

The same process answers admirably for ladies' 
cordovan, or gentlemen's dress-shoes, but with the 
following addition for protecting tiie stockings 
from soil. Let the white or glaire of cggsbe shak- 
en in a large glass phial until it becomes a perfect 
oil; brusii over the inner edges of the shoes with 
It, and when completely dry, it will prevent all 
soiling from the leather. This requires to be re- 
peated. 

To polish and soften ivory. 

This article is polished w'ith putty and water, hv 
means of a rubber, made of hat, wljich, in a short 
time, produces a fine gloss. The following direc- 
tions are given to soften ivory. Let it stand in a 
varm place 4S hours, and you will be able to bend I 
the ivory in any form. 

To varnish draivi/igs and card -work. 

Boil some clear i)archment cuttings in water, in 
a gl.azed pipkin, till they produce a very clear size. 
Strain it and keep it for use. 

Give the work two coats of the size, passing the 
brush quickly over tiie work, not to disturb the co- 
lours. 

To make tzir/jentiiie varytish. 

Mix one gtdlon of oil of turpentine, and five 
pounds of po\vdered resin; put it iu a lia can, oh a 



stove, and let it boil for half an hour. Wlien cool 
it is fit for use. 

To make varnislies for violins, &c. 
To a gallon of rectified spirit of wine, add si* 
ounces of gum sandarac, three ounces of gum mas- 
tic, and half a pint of turpentine varnisii. Put the 
whole into a tin can, which keep in a warm plac&, 
frequently shaking it, for twelve days, until it is 
dissolved. Tlien strain and keep it for use. 
To vaimish har/is and dtdcimers. 
Prepare the work witli size and red ochre; then 
take ochre, burnt umber, and red lead, well 
ground, arid mix up a dark brown colour in tur» 
])entine varnish, adding so much oil of turjjentine 
that the brush may just be able to pass over tlie 
work fair and even. While yet wet, take a muslin 
sieve, and sift as much Dutch metal, previously 
powdered, upon it as is requisite to produce the et» 
feet, after which varnish and polish it. 
To presei-ve steel goods, 
Mr Alkin recommends a thin coating of caout- 
chouc as an excellent preservative of iron and steel 
^irticles from the action of the air and moisture; its 
unalterability, consistence when heated, adhesion 
to iron and steel, and facility of removal, render it 
an admirable substance for this purpose. 

The caoutchouc is to be melted in a close vessel, 
that it may not inflame. It will require nearly tlie 
temperature of fusing lead, and must be stirred to 
prevent burning. 

Mr Parkins, to whom Mr Aikin communicated 
this process, has made much use of it in his blocks, 
plates, dies, kc. He mixes some oil of turpen- 
tine with the caoutchouc, which renders it easily 
applicable, and leaves the substance, when dry, aa 
a firm varnish, impermeable to moisture. This, 
when required, may easily be removed by a soft 
brush dipped in warm oil of turpentine. 

To prepare oil for watch-work, &c. 
Oil used for diminisliinn- frictions in delicate 
machinery, should be free trom all acids and mu- 
cilage. 

Put into a matrass or glass flask, a portion of 
any fine oil, with seven or eight times its weight 
of alcohol, and heat the mixture almost to boiling, 
decant the clear upper stratum of fluid, and suffer 
it to cool ; a solid portion of fatty matter separates 
which is to be removed, and then the alcoholic so- 
lution evaporated in a retort or basin, until redv»- 
ced to one-fifth of its bulk. The fluid part of the 
oil will be deposited. It should be colourless and 
tasteless, almost free from smell, without action 
on infusion of litmus, having the consistence of 
white olive oil, and not easily congealable. — Jour- 
nal of Science, 18'22. 

To make pajiier mache. 
This is a substance made of cuttings of white or 
brown paper, boiled in w.ater, and beaten in a mor>- 
tar till they are reduced into a kind of paste, and 
then boiled with a solution of gum arable, or of 
size, to give tenacity to the paste, which is afters- 
wards formed into iliflerent toys, &c. by pressing 
it into oiled moulds. When dry, it is done over 
with a mixture of size and lamp-black, and aftei>- 
wards varnished. The black varnish for these toys, 
according to Dr Lewis, is prepared as follows : 
Some colophony, or turpentine, boiled down till it 
becomes black and friable, is melted in a glazed 
earthen vessel, and thrice as much amber in fine 
powder sprinkled in by degrees, with the addition « 
of a little spirit or oil of turpentine now and theiu hi 
when the amber is melted, sprinkle in the sama J 
quantity of sarcocoUa, continuing to stirtliem, and 
to add more spirit of turpentine, till the whole bo- 
comes fluid ; then strain out the clear through a 
coarse hair bag, pressing it gently between hoi 
boards. This Aaruisli, mixed wiih'ivorj--black id 



VARXISHES. 



35 



fihe powder, is applied, in a hot room, on the dri- 
ed paper paste; which is then set in a gently heat- 
ed oven, next day in a hotter oven, and the third 
day in a very hot one, and let stand each time till 
tlie oven grows cold. The paste thus varnished is 
hard, durable, glossy, and bears liquors hot or 
cold. 

To varnish glass. 

Pulverize a quantity of gum adragant, and let it 
dissolve for twenty-four hours in the white of eggs 
well beat up ; then rub it gently on the glass with 
a brush. 

To apply copal varnish to tlie reparation of opake 
enaiiKls. 

The properties manifested by these varnishes, 
and which render them proper for supplying the 
vitreous and transparent coating of enamel, by a 
covering equally brilliant,' but more solid, and 
which adheres to vitreous compositions, and to 
metallic surfaces, admit of their being applied to 
other purposes besides those liere enumerated. 

By slight modifications they may be used also 
for the i-eparation of opake enamel which has been 
fractured. These kinds of enamel admit tlie use 
of cements coloured throughout, or only superfi- 
cially, by copal varnish charged with colouring 
parts. On this account they must be attended with 
less difficulty in the reparation than transparent 
enamel, because they do not require the same re- 
flection of the light. Compositions of paste, there- 
fore, the different grounds of which may always 
harmonize with the colours or ground of the pieces 
to be repaired, and wbich may be still strengthen- 
ed by the same tint introduced into tlie solid var- 
nish, with which the articles are glazed, will an- 
swer tlie views of the artist in a wonderful maa- 
ner. 

The bise of the cement ought to be pure clay 
witliout colour, and exceedingly dry. If solidity 
be required, cenise is the only substance that can 
be substituted in its place. Drying oil of pinks 
will form an excellent excipient, and tlie consist- 
enc-e of the cement ought to be sucli that it can be 
easily extended by a knife or spatula, possessed of 
a moderate degree of flexibility. Tliis sort of paste 
soon dries. ■ It has the advantage also of presenting 
to the colours, applied to it witli a brush, a kind 
of ground which contributes to their solidity. l"he 
compound mastic being exceedingly drying, the 
application of it will be proper in cases where 
speedy reparation of the damaged aiticles is re- 
quired. 

In more urgent cases, the paste may be compos- 
ed with ceruse, and the turpentine copal varnishes; 
which dries more speedily than oil of pinks ; and 
the colours may then be glazed with the ethereal 
copal varnish. 

The application of the paste will be necessary 
only in cases when the accident, which has hap- 
pened to the enamel, leaves too great a vacuity to 
ne filled up by several strata, of coloured varnish. 
But in all cases, the varnish ought to be well dri- 
ed, that it may acquire its full lusti-e by polish- 
ing. 

To make -white copal varmsh. 

White oxide of lead, ceruse, Spanish white, 
white clay. Such of these substances as are pre- 
ferred ought to be carefully dried. Ceruse and 
clay obstinately retain a great deal of humidity, 
which would oppose their adhesion t^ drying oil 
or varnish, Tlie cement then crumbles under the 
fingers, and does not assume a body. 

Another. — On 16 ounces of melted copal, pour 4, 
6, or 8 ounces of linseed oil boiled, and quite free 
Prom grease. When well mixed by repeated stir- 
rings, and aftei" tlicy are pretty cool, pour in 16 
«»i«;ts of tlie ebtence of Veuice turpeDliuc 



Pass tlie varni%h (hrough a cloth. Amber TOmish 
is made the same way. 

To make black copal varnish. 

Lamp-black, made of burnt vine twigs, black of 

peach-stones. The lamp-black must be carefully 

washed and afterwards dried. Washing carries ofT 

a great many of its impurities. ■ 

To make yelloxv copal varnish. 

Yellow oxide of lead of Naples and Montpellier, 
both reduced to impalpable powder. These yel- 
lows are hurt by the contact of iron and steel ; in 
mixing them up, therefore, a horn spatula with a 
glass mortar and pestle must be employed. 

Gum guttie, yellow ochre, or Dutch pink, ac- 
cording to the nature and tone of the colour to be 
imitated. 

To make blue copal varnish. 

Indigo, prussiate of iron, (Prussian blue) blue 
verditer, and ultra marine. All these substances 
must be very much divided. 

To 7nake green copal varnish. 

Verdigris, crystallized verdigris, compound 
green, (a mixtm-e of yellow and blue). The first 
two require a mixture of white in proper propor- 
tions, from a fourth to two-thirds, according to the 
tint intended to be" given. Tlie white used for this 
purpose is ceruse, or the white oxide of lead, op 
Spanish white, which is less solid, or white of 
Moudon. 

To make red copal varnish. 

Red sulphuretted oxide ot mercury (cinnabar ver- 
milion). Red oxide of lead frninium), difterent 
red oclires, or Prussian reds, ^tc. 

To make purple copal varnish. 

Cochineal, carmine, and carminated lakes, with 
ceruse and boiled oil. 

Brick red. 

Dragon's blood. 

Chamois colmir. 

Dragon's blood with a paste composed of flowers 
of zinc, or, what is still better, alittle red vermiliou. 
Violet. 

Red sulphuretted oxide of mercury, mixed with 
lamp-black, washed very drj', or with the black of 
burnt vine twigs; and to render it mellower, a pro- 
per mixture of red, blue, and white. 
Pearl grey. 

White and black; white and blue; for example, 
ceruse and lamp-black; ceruse and indigo. 

Flaxen grey. , 

Ceruse, which forms the ground of the paste, 
mixed with a small quantity of Cologne earth, as 
much English red, or carminated lake, which is 
not so durable, and a particle of prussiate of iron, 
(Prussian blue). ■ 

To dissolve elastic gvm. 

M. Grossart, by an ingenious method, succeed- 
ed in forming kidia rubber into elastic tubes. Cut 
a bottle of the gum circularly, in a spiral slip of a 
few lines in breadth; then plunge the whole of the 
slip into vitriolic ether, till it becomes softened; 
half an hour is generally suflicient for this purpose. 
The slip is then taken out of the liquid, and one 
of the extremities applied to the end of a mould, 
first rolling it on itself, and pressing it, then mount- 
ing spirally along the cylinder, taking care to lay 
over and compress with the hand eveiy edge, one 
against the other, so that there may not be any va- 
cant space, and that all the edges may join exactly; 
the whole is then to be bound hard with a tape of 
an inch in width, taking care to turn it the sams 
way with the slip of caoutchouc. - Over the tape, 
packthread is to be applied, in such a manner, tliat 
by every turn of the thread joining another, an 
equal pressure is given to every part It is then left 
to diT, and the tube is made." In remoring the 
bandage great care must b« takjen,that notw of the 



34 



UXIVERSAL RECEUT BOOK. 



outward surface, which may have lodged within 
the interstices of the tape, (of which the caoiit- 
cliouc takes the exact impression), niav be pulled 
asunder. If it is found difficnlt to withdraw the 
mould, it may be jilungcd into liot water. If the 
mould were previously smoked or rubbed witii 
chalk, it might be removed M-ith less difficulty. 
Polisiied metallic cylinders are the most eligible 
moulds for this purpose. As solvents, oils of tur- 
pentine and lavender may he employed, but both 
are much slower of evaporating the ether, and tiie 
oil of turpentine, particularly, appears to have a 
kind of stickiness. Nevertheless, there is a solvent 
vhich has not that inconvenience, is cheaper, and 
nay easily be procured by every one, viz. -Mater. 
Proceed in the same manner as with ether. The 
caoutchouc is sufficiently prepared for use when it 
has been a quarter of an hour in boiling water: by 
this time its edges are sometimes transparent. It 
is to be turned spirally i-ound the mould, and re- 
plunged frequently into the boiling water, during 
the time employed in forming the tube. When the 
wliole is bound with packthread, it is to be kept 
some hours in boiling water, after whicli it is to be 
dried, still keeping on tlie binding. This method 
may be successfully employed in forming the lai-ger 
sort of tubes, and in any other instruments, but it 
would be impracticable to make the small lubes in 
this way. 

Oil of lavender, of turpentine, and of spikenard, 
dissolve elastic gum, with the assistance of a gen- 
.le heat; but a mixture of volatile oil and alcohol 
forms a better solvent for it tlian oil alone, and 
the varnish dries sooner. If boiled in a solution 
of alum in water, it is rendered softer than in wa- 
ter alone. Yellow wax, in a state of ebullition, 
may be saturated with it, hy putting it, cut in small 
pieces, gradually into it. By this means a pliable 
varnish is formed, which may be appliedto cloth 
vith a brush, but it still retains a clamminess. 
To make caoutchouc vanu'sh. 

Take caoutchouc, or elastic resin, boiled linseed 
oil, essence of turpentine, each 16 oz. 

Cut the caoutchouc into thin slips, and put them 
into a matrass placed in a very hot sand-hath. 
"When the matter is liquefied, add the linseed oil 
in a state of ebullition, and then the essence warm. 
When the varnish has lost a great part of its heat, 
strain it through a piece of linen, and preserve it 
in a wide-mouthed bottle. This varnish dries 
very slowly, a fault which is owing to the peculiar 
nature of the caoutchouc. 

The invention of air balloons led to the idea of 
applying caoutchouc to the composition of varnish. 
It was necessary to have a varnish which should 
unite great pliability and consistence. No varnish 
seemed capable of corresponding to these views, 
except that of caoutchouc, but the desiccation of it 
is exceedingly tedious. 

To varnish balloons. 

The compositions for varnishing balloons have 
been variously modified; but, upon the whole, the 
most approved appears to be the bird-lime varnish 
of M. Faujas St Fond, prepared after M. Cavallo's 
method as follows : " In order to render linseed 
oil drying, boil it with 2 ounces of sugar of lead, 
and 3 ounces of litharge, for every pint of oil, till 
they are dissolved, which may be "in half an hour. 
Then put a. pound of bird-lime, and half a pint of 
the drying oil, into an iron or copper vessel, whose 
capacity should equal iibout a gallon, and let it boil 
very gently over a slow charcoal fire, till the bird- 
lime ceases to crackle, which will be in about half, 
or three-quarters, of an hour; then pour upon it 
52^ pints more of the drying oil, and let it boil 
ahout an hour longer; stirring it frequently with 
an U>« or wooden spatula. As tlie varnish, whilst 



boiling, and especially when nearly ready, swells 
very much, care should be taken to remove, in 
those cases, the pot from the fire, and to replace it 
when the varnish subsides; otherwise it will boil 
over. Whilst the stuft' is boiling, the operator 
should occasionally examine whether it has boiled 
enough; which may be known by observing" 
whetlier, when rubbed between two knives, which 
are then to be separated from one another, the 
varnish forms threads between them, as it must 
then be removed from tlie fire. When nearly cool, 
add about an equal quantity of oil of turpentine. 
In using the varnish, the stuff must be stretched, 
and the varnish applied lukewarm. In 24 hours it 
will dry." 

Another. — As the elastic resin, known by the 
name of Indian rubber, has been much extolled for 
a varnisli, the following method of making it, a* 
practised by M. Blanchard, may not prove unac- 
ceptable. — Dissolve elastic gum, cut small, in five 
times its weight of rectified essential oil of tur- 
pentine, by keeping them some days together: 
tlien boil 1 ounce of this solution in 8 ounces of 
drying linseed oil for a few minutes; strain the 
solution, and use it warm. 

To varnish rarefied air balloons. 

With regard to the rarefied air machines, M. 
Cavallo recommends, first, to soak the cloth in a 
solution of sal-ammoniac and common size, using 
one pound of each to every gallon of water; and 
when the cloth is quite dry, to paint it over on the 
inside with some earthy colour, and strong size or 
glue. When this paint has dried perfectly, it will 
then be proper to cover it with oily varnish, which 
might dry before it could penetrate c|uite through 
the cloth. Simple drying linseed oil will answer 
the purpose as well as anv, provided it be not very 
fluid. 

To make varnish for silks, &c. 

To 1 quart of cold-drawn linseed-oil, poured off 
from the lees (produced on the addition of un- 
slacked lime, on whicli the oil has stpod 8 or 10 
days at the least, in order to communicate a dry- 
ing quality, — or brown umber, burnt and powder- 
ed, which will have tlie like eft'ect,) and half art 
ounce of litharge; boil them for half an hour, then 
add half an ounce of the copal varnisli. While the 
ingredients are on the fire, in a copper vessel, put 
in 1 oz. of Chios turpentine, or common resin, and 
a few drops of neatsfoot oil, and stir the whole 
with a knife; when cool, it is ready for use. The 
neatsfoot oil prevents the varnish from being sticky 
or adhesive, and may be put into the linseed oil at 
the same time with the lime, or burnt umber. Re- 
sin or Chios turpentine may be added till the var- 
nish has attained the desired thickness. 

The longer the raw linseed-oil remains on the 
unslacked lime or umber, the sooner will the oil 
dry after it Is used; if some months, so much the 
better; such varnish will set, that Is to say, not 
run, but keep its place on the silk In four hours; 
the silk may then be turned and varnished on the 
other side. ' 

To make pliable varnish for umbrellas. 

Take any qu.intity of caoutchouc, as 10 or 12 
ounces, cut into small bits with a pair of scissors, 
and put a strong Iron ladle (such as painters, 
plumbers, or glaziers melt their lead in,) over a 
common pit-coal or other fire; which must be gen- 
tle, glowing*, and without smoke. When the ladle M 
is hot put a single bit Into it: if black smoke issues, ■ 
it will presently flame and disappear, or it will ■ 
evaporate without flame: the ladle is then too hot. 
When the ladle is less hot, put In a second bit, 
wliich will produce a white smoke; this white 
smoke will continue during the operation, and 
evaporate the caoutchouc; therefore no time is to ! 



VARNISHES. 



be lost, but little bits are to be put in, a few at a 
time, till the whole are melted; it should be con 
tinually and gently stirred ■wiih an iron or brass 
spoon. The instant the sniolce chanijes from white 
to black, take off the ladle, or the wjiole Avill break 
out into a violent flame, or be spoiled, or lost. 
Care must be taken that no water be added, a few 
drops only of which would, on account of its ex- 
pansibility, make it boil over furiously and with 
great noise; at this period of the process, '2 pounds 
or 1 quart of the best drying oil is to be put into 
the melted caoutchouc and stirred till hot, and tiie 
whole poured into a glazed vessel through a coarse 
gauze, or wire sieve. When settled and clear, 
which will be in a few minutes, it is fit for use, 
either hot or cold. 

Tlie silk should be always stretclied horizontally 
by pins or tenter-hooks on frames: (the greater 
they are in length tlie better,) and the varnish 
poured on cold, in hot weather, and hot, in cold 
■weather. It is perhaps best, always to lay it on 
when cold. The art of laying it on properly, con- 
sists in making no intestine motion in the varnish, 
which would create minute bubbles, therefore 
brushes of every kind are improper, as each bub- 
ble breaks in drying, aitd forms a small hole, 
through which tlie air will transpire. 

This varnish is pliant, unadhesive, and unaltera- 
61e by weather. 

Varnish used for Indian shields. 
Shields made at Siliiet, in Bengal, are noted 
throughout India, for the lustre and durability of 
the black varnish with M'liich they are cwvered; 
Silhet sliields constitute, therefore, no inconsi- 
derable article of traffic, being in request among 
natives who carry arms, and retain the. ancient 
predilection for the scimitar and buckler. Tlie 
varnish is composed of the expressed juice of tlie 
marking nut, Semecarjms AmicarJiimi, and tliat of 
another kindred fruit, HoUgarna Ijongifolia. 

The shell of tlie Semecarpns Anacaidimn con- 
tains between its integuments numerous cells, 
filled witli a black, acrid, resinous juice; which 
likewise is found, tliough less abundantly, in the 
wood of the tree. It is commonly employed as an 
indelible ink, to iTiark all sorts of cotton clotii. 
The colour is fixed with quick lime. The corti- 
cal part of the fruit of Holigarna Longifolia like- 
wise contains between its laminte numerous cells, 
filled with a black, thick, acrid fluid. Tlie na- 
tives of Malabar extract by incision, witli which 
tliey varnish targets. 

To prepare the varnish according to the method 
practised in Silhet, the nuts of the Semecarpus 
»duabardium, and the berries of the Holigarna 



Ijongifolia, having been steeped for a month m 
clear water, are cut transversely, and pressed in .-i 
mill. The expressed juice of each is kept for se- 
veral months, takingofF the scum from time to time. 
Afterwards the liquor is decanted, and two parts 
of the one are added to one part of the other^ to be 
used as varnish. Other proportions of ingre- 
dients are sometimes employed; but in all, the 
resinous juice of the Semecarpus predominates. 
Thevarnisli is laid on like paint, and when (hy, is 
polished by rubbing it with an agate, or smooth 
jiebble. This varnish also prevents destruction o£ 
wood, &c. by the -xuldte ant. 

To varnish like gold silver leaf. 

Fix the leaf on the subject, similar to gohl leaf, 
by the interposition of proper glutinous matters, 
spread the varnish upon tlie piece with a pencil. 
Wlien the first coat is dry wash the piece again and 
again witli the varnish till the colour appears suf- 
ficiently deep. "What is called gilt leather, and 
many picture frames, have no other than tiiis gild- 
ing; washing them with a little rectified spirit of 
wine affords a proof of tliis; the spirit dissolving the 
varnish, and leaving the silver leaf of its own white- 
ness; for plain frames thick thi foil may be used 
instead of silver. The tin leaf fixed on the piece 
with glue is to be burnished, then polished with 
emeiy and a fine linen cloth, and afterwards with 
putty applied in the same mannen being then lac- 
quered over witli varnish five or six times, it looks 
very nearly like burnished gold. The same var- 
nisli, made with a less proportion- of colouring ma- 
terials, is applied also on works of brass; both for 
heiglitening the colour of the metal to a resem- 
blance with that of gold, and for preserving it from 
being tarnished by the air. 

2'o recover varnish. 

Clear off the filth with a ley made of potash, and 
the aslies of the lees of wine; then take 48 ounces 
of potash, and 16 of the above mentioned aslies, 
and put them into six quarts of water, and this com- 
pletes the ley. 

To polish vaniish. 

This is effected with pumice stone and tripoli 
earth. The pumice stone must be reduced to an 
impalpable powder, and put upon a piece of serge 
moistened with water: with this rub lightly and 
e(iually the varnish substance. The tripoli must 
also be reduced to a very fine powder, and put up- 
on a clean woollen cloth, moistened with olive oil, 
with which the polishing fe to be performed. The 
varnish is then to be wiped oft' with soft linen, and 
when quite diy, cleaned with starch or Siianish 
white, and rubbed with the palm of tlie hand. 



OIL AND WATER COLOURS. 



HOUSE PAINTING. 

To mix the colours for hon^e painting. ' 
*' All simple or compound colours, and all the 
■ shades of colour which nature or art can produce, 
and which might be thought proper for the difter- 
ent kinds of painting, would forma very extensive 
catalogue, were we to take into consideration only 
certain external characters, or the intensity of their 
tiaU But art, foimded on tiie experience of sevu'al 



centuries, has prescribed bounds to the consnrnp- 
tion of colouring substances, and to the application 
of them to particular purposes. To cause a sub- 
stance to be admitted into the class of colouring 
bodies employed by painters, it is not sufficient for 
it to contain a colour; to brightness and splendour 
it must also unite durability in the tint t* ooloor 
which it comivjunicates. 

To make blnch paint, 
Usflge i-equires attootion in the choice of the 



38 



UXrVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK- 



matters destined for black. The following aie their 
jn'operties: 

lilack from peach stones is dull. 

Ivorv-'liliick is strong and heaiitiful, ivheh it has 
been veil attmuntcd under the init'ler.' 

Jilaeh from the cliarco(d of beech tvood, ground 
on Jioi/jhi/rii, has a bluish tune. 

Lamp "black may be reiulei-ed mellower by mak- 
inj5 it willi black wliich has been kept an hour in 
a stale of redness in a close crucible. It then loses 
the fat matter which accompanies this kind of soot. 

Black furnished by the charcoal of vine-twigs, 
ground on porphyiy, is we.iker, and of a dirty 
ffrey colour, when coarse and alone, but it l)ecomes 
hlacker the more the charcoal has been divided. It 
then forms a black very much sought after, and 
uhicli goes a great way. 

To make paints from lamp black. 

The consumption of lamp black is very exten- 
.sive in common painting. It serves to modify the 
hrightness of the tones of the other colours, or to 
facilitate the composition of secondary colours. 
The oil paint applied to iron grates and railing, 
.tnd the paint applied to paper snuff-boxes, to those 
made of tin plate, and to other articles with dark 
i^i'ounds, consume a very large quantity of this 
black. Great solidity may be given to works of 
this kind, by covering them with several coatings 
of the fat turpentine, or golden varnish, whicli has 
lieen mixed with lamp black, washed in water, to 
separate the foreign bodies introduced into it by 
the negligence of the workmen who prepare it. 

After the varnish is applied, the articles are 
dried in a stove, byexi)Osing them to a heat some- 
what gi'eatcr than that employed for articles of pa- 
l)er. Najjles yellow, which enters into the com- 
position of black varnish, is the basis of the dark 
brown observed on tobacco boxes of plate-iron, 
])ecause this colour changes to brown when di'ied 
■with the varnish. 

To make a sJiperior lamp black. 

Suspend over a lamp a funnel of tin plate, hav- 
ing above it a pipe, to convey from the apartment 
the smoke wliich escapes from tlie lamp. Large 
juushrooms, of a very black caihonaceous matter, 
and exceedingly light, will he lormcd at the sum- 
mit of the cone. This carbonaceous part is carried 
to such a state of division as cannot be given to any 
other matter, by grinding it on a piece of porphyry. 

Tills black goes a great way in every kind of 
painting. It may be rendered drier by calcination 
in close vessels. 

Tlie funnel oiight to be united to the pipe, which 
conveys off the smoke, by means of wire, because 
solder would be melted by the fiame of the lump. 
To make black fra?n ground pitoal. 

The best for this purpose is that which lias a shin- 
ing fracture, ft affords, perhaps, the most useful 
hrown the artist can place on his palet ; being re- 
markably clear, not so warm as Vandyke brown, 
and serving as a shadow for blues, reds, or yel- 
lows, when glaaed over them. It seems almost 
certain that I'itian made large use of this material. 
Coal, when burnt to a white heat, then quenched 
in water, and ground down, gives an excellent blue 
black. This belongs to artists' colours. 
To make black from -xvine lees. 

This black results from the calcination of wine 
lees and tartar; and is manufectured on a large 
.scale in some districts of Germany, in the en- 
virons of Mentz, and even in Frsnce. This ope- 
i-ation is performed in large cylindric vessels, or 
in pots, having an aperture in the cover to aftbrd 
n passage to the smoke, and to the acid and alka- 
line vapours Mdiich escape during the process. 
V\'hen no more smoke is oliserved, the operation 
is finished. The remaining matter, which is niei-ely i 



a mixture of salts and a carbonaceous part very 
much attenuated, is then washed several times id 
boiling water; and it is reduced to the proper d&« 
gree of fineness by grinding it on porpliyry. 

If tliis black be extracted from dry lees, it ia 
coarser than that obtained from tartar; because the 
lees contain earthy matters wliicit are confounded 
with the carbonaceous part. 

This black goes a great way, and lias a velvety 
appearance. It is used chiefly by copper-plate 
printers. ' 

Anotlier. — Peach stones, burnt in a close vessel, 
produce a charcoal, which, when ground on por- 
phyry, is employed in painting to give an old grey. 

Another. — Vine twigs reduced to charcoal give a 
bluish black, which goes a great way. When mix- 
ed with white it produces a silver w hite, which is 
not produced by other blacks; it has a pretty neaif 
resemblance to the black of peach stones; but to 
bring this colour to the utmost degree of perfec- 
tion, it must be carefully ground on poiphyrv'. 
To make ivory and bone black. 

Put into a crucible, surrounded by burning coals, 
fragments or turnings of Ivory, or of the osseous 
parts of animals, and cover it closely. The ivory 
or bones, by exposure to the heat, will be reduced 
to charcoal. Wlien no more smoke is seen to pass 
through the joining of ihe cover, leave the cruci- 
ble over tlie fire for half an hour longer, or until it 
has completely cooled. There will then be found 
in it a hard carbonaceous matter, which, when 
pounded and ground on porpiijTy with water, is 
washed on a filter with warm water, and then driecL 
Before it is used it must be again subjected to the 
matter. 

Black furnished by bones is reddish. That pro- 
duced hy ivoi-y is more beautiful. It is brigbter 
than black obtained from peach stones. When 
mixed in a proper dose with white oxide of lead, 
it forms a beautiful pearl grey. Ivory black is 
richer. The Cologne and Cassel black are fcrin- 
ed from ivory. 

To paint in luhite distemper. 

Grind fine in water, Bougival white, a kind of 
marl, or chalky clay, and mix it with size. It may 
be briglitened by a small quantity of indigo, or 
charcoal black. 

To makx -white paint. 
The white destined for varnish or oil requires a 
metallic oxide, which gives more body to the co- 
lour. Take ceruse, remiced to powder, and grind 
it with oil of pinks, and i; 02. of sulpliate of zinc 
for e.ich ])ound of oil. Apply the second coating 
without the sulphate of zinc, and suffer it to dry. 
Cover the whole with a stratum of sandarac var- 
nish. This colour is durable, brilliant, andagre^a- 
ble to the eye. 

Boiled linseed oil might be employed instead of 
oil of pinks, but the colour of it would in some 
degree injure the purity of the white. 

Another. — Wliite is prepared also with pare 
white oxide of lead, ground with a little essence, 
added to oil of pinks, and mixed with gallipot var- 
nish. The colour may be mixed also with essence 
diluted with oil, and without varnish, which is re- 
served foi* the two last coatings. If for a lively 
white, the colour is heightened witii a little Prus- 
sian blue, or indigo, or with a little prepared 
black. The latter gives it a grey cast. But pure 
white lead, the price of which is much higheif 
than cemse, is reserved for valuable articles. In 
this particular case, if a very fine durable white 
be required, grind it with a little essence, and mix 
it with sandarac varnisli. 

To paint in light grey, and distemper. 
Ceruse, mixed with a small quantity of lamp 
blacky composes a grey, more or less charged ws* 



OIL AND WATER COLOURS. 



37 



cording to the quantity of black. AVith this mat- 
ter, therefore, mixed with black in difterent doses, 
a great variety of shades may be formed, from the 
liglitest to the darkest grey. 

If this colour be destined for distemper, it is 
, mixed with water; if intended for oil painting, it 
is ground with nut oil, or oil of pinks; and with 
' essgnce added to oil, if designed for varnish. This 
J colour is durable and very pure, if mixed with 
camphorated mastic varnisli: the gallipot varnish 
renders it so solid that it can bear to be struck 
Vfith a hammer, if, after tlie first stratum it has 
been applied with varnish, and without size. For 
the last coating sandarac varnish, and camphorated 
ditto are proper; and for the darkest grey, spiritu- 
ous sandarac varnish. 

To make econornical ivhite house paint. 

Skim milk, 2 quarts, fresh slacked lime, 8 oz. 
linseed oil, 6 oz. white burgundy pitch, 2 oz. 
Spanish white, 3 pounds. 

The lime to be slackedjn water, exposed to the 
air, mixed in about one-fourth of the milk; the oil 
in which tiie pitch is previously dissolved, to be 
added, a little at a time; then the rest of the milk, 
and afterwards the Spanish white. This quantity 
is sufiicient for 2" square yards, two coats, and the 
expense not more than ten pence. 

To make pearl grey paint. 

If a particle of blue be substituted for the black 
in the preceding composition, or if this blue be 
combined with a slight portion of black, a silver or 
pearl grey will be obtained; but that the ground 
may not be altered by a foreign tint, the colour for 
the first coating must he ground with essence 
mixed with a little oil of pinks: for the succeeding 
strata, grind with camphorated mastic varnish, 
softenea with a little oil of pinks, and mix the co- 
lour with the same varnish. The pearl grey will 
be still brighter, if the last stratum be glazed with 
sandarac varnish mixed with a little colour. 
To make flaxen grei;. 

Ceruse still predominates in this colour, whicn 
Is treated as the other greys, but with this differ- 
ence, that it admits a mixture of lake instead of 
black. Take the quantity, therefore, of ceruse 
necessary, and grind it separately. Then mix it 
up, and add the lake and Prussian blue, also 
ground separately. The quantities of the last two 
colours ought to bo proportioned to the tone of co- 
lour required. 

This colour is proper for distemper, varnish, 
and oil painting. For varnish, grind it with mas- 
tic gallipot varnish, to which a little oil of pinks 
has been added, and then mix it up with common 
gallipot varnish. For oil painting, grind witli un- 
prepared oil of pinks, and mix up with resinous 
drj'ing nut-oil. The painting is briUiaut and 
solid. 

When the artist piques himself in carefully pre- 

Earing those colours which have splendour, it will 
e proper, before he commences his labour, to 
stop up the holes formed by the heads of the nails 
in wainscotting with a cement made of ceruse .or 
putty. 

Every kind of sizing which, according to usual 
custom, precedes the application of varnish, ought 
to be proscribed as liighly prejudicial, when the 
■wainscotting consists of fir-wood. Sizing maybe 
admitted for plaster, but without any mixture. A 
plain stratum of strong glue and water Spread over 
it, is sufficient to fill up the pores to prevent any 
unnecessary consumption of tlie varnish. 

The first stratum of colour, is ceruse without 
any mixture, ground with essence a<lded to a little 
oil of pinks, and mixed up with essence. If any 
of the traces are uneven, rub it lightly, when dry, 
vith pumice-stone. This operatioa ooDtribules 



greatly to tlie beauty and elegance of the polish 
when the varnish is applied. 

The second stratum is composed of ceruses 
changed to Ikxen grey by the mixture of a little 
Cologne earth, as much English red or lake, and 
a particle of Prussian blue. First so make tlie 
mixture with a small quantity of ceruse, that the 
result shall be a smoky grey, by the addition of the 
Cologne earth. The red which is added, makes 
it incline to flesh colour, and the Prussian blue 
destroys the latttjr to form a dark ilaxeu grey. The 
addition of ceruse brightens the tone. This stra- 
tum and the next are ground, and mixed up with 
varnish as before. 

This mixture of colours, which produces flaxen 
grey, has the advantage over pearl grey, as it de- 
tends tlie ceruse from the impression of the air 
and light, which makes it assume a yellow.isii tint. 
Flaxen grey, composed in this manner, is unalter- 
able. Besides, the essence which forms the vehi- 
cle of the first stratum contributes to bring fortli u 
colour, the tone of which decreases a little by thu 
effect of drying. This observation ought to serve 
as a guide to the artist, in regard to the tint, 
which is always stronger in a liquid mixture than 
when the matter composing it is extended in a thiu 
stratum, or when it is dry. 

To make oak loood colour. 

The basis of this colour is still formed of ceruse. 
Three-fourths of this oxide, and a fourtli of ochre 
de rue, umber earth, and yellow de Berri; the last^ 
three ingredients being employed in proportions 
which lead to the required tint; give a matter 
equally proper for distemper, varnish, and oil. 
To mak,' ivahiut wood colour. 

A given quantity of ceruse, half that quantity of 
ochre de rue, a little umber earth, red ochre, and 
yellow ochre de Berri, compose this colour proper 
for distemper, varnish, and oil. 

For varnish, grind with a little drying nut-oil, 
and mix up with the gallipot varnish. 

For oil painting, grind with fat oil of pinks 
added to drying oil or essence, and mix up with 
plain drying oil, or with resinous drying oil! 
To make j\'aples and MontpelUer ycUonu. 

The composition of these is simple, yellow ochre 
mixed with ceruse, ground with water, if destined 
for distemper; or drying nut-oil and essence, in 
equal ])arts, if intended for varnish; and mixed up 
with camphorated mastic varnish; if for Oelicate 
objects, or with gallipot varnish, give a very fine 
colour, the splendour of which depends on the 
doses of the ceruse; which must be varied accord- 
ing to the particular nature of the colouring mat- 
ter employed. If the ground of the colour is fur- 
nished by ochre, and if oil painting be intended, 
the grinding with oil added to essence may be 
omitted, as essence alone will be sufficient. Qil, 
however, gives more pliability and more body.' 
To make jonqidl. 

This is employed only in distemper. It may, 
however, be usetl with varnish. A vegetable co- 
lour serves as its base. It is made with Dutch pink 
and ceruse, and ground with mastic gallipot var- 
nish, and mixed up with gallipot varnish. 
To make golden yellow colour. 

Cases often occur when it is necessary to pro-' 
duce a gold colour without employing a metallic 
substance. A colour capable of forming an illu- 
sion is then given to the composition, the greater 
part of which consists of yellow. This is accom- 
plished by Naples or Montpellier yellow, bright- 
ened by Spanish white, or by white of Moral, mix- 
ed with ochre de Berri and realgar. The last sub- 
stance, even in small quantity, gives to the mixture 
acolour imitating gold, and which may be employed 
in distemper, varuish, or oil. When destined for oil, 

J) 



38 



UN1\'EKSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



it is ground with drying or pure nut-oil added to 
essence, and mixed up with drvinpf oil. 

To make duimois and buff colour. 

Yellow is the foundation of chamois colour, 
•whicli is modified by a particle of minium, or what 
is better, cinnabar and ceruse in small quantity. 
This colour may be employed in distemper, varnish, 
and oil. For varnisii, it is ground witli one half 
common oil of pinks, and one half of mastic galli- 
l)Ot varnish. It is mixed with common galli|)0t 
varnish. For oil painting, it is ground and mixed 
up with drying oil. 

To make olive colour for oil and varnish. 

Olive colour is a composition the shades ot which 
may be diversified. Black and a little blue, mixed 
with yellow, will produce an olive coloui*. Yel- 
low de Berri, or d'Auvergne, with a little verdi- 
gris and charcoal, will also form this colour. 

It is ground and mixed up with mastic, gallipot 
and common gallipot varnishes. For oil painting, 
it is ground with oil added to essence, and mi.xed 
■up with drying oil. 

To make olive colour for distemper. 

When intended for distemper, it will be neces- 
sary to make a change in the composition. The 
yellow abovementioned, indigo, and ceruse, or 
Spanish white, are the new ingredients which must 
be employed. 

To make blue colours. 

Blue belongs to the order of vegetable substances, 
like indigo ; or to that of metallic substances, like 
Prussian blue ; or to that of stony mineral sub- 
stances, as ultra marine; or to that of vitreous sub- 
stances coloured by a metallic oxide, as Saxon blue. 
Ultra marine is more particularly reserved for pic- 
tures. The same may, in some degi-ee, be said of 
Saxon blue. 

When prussiate of iron or indigo is employed 
without mixture, the colour produced is too dark. 
It has no splendour, and very often the light makes 
it appeal" black; it is, therefore, usual to soften it 
with white. 

To make blue distemper. 

Grind with water as much ceruse as may be 
thought necessaiy for the whole of the intended 
work; and afterwards mi.^ it with iudigo, or Prus- 
sian blue. 

This colour produces very little effect in distem- 
per, but it is not very favourable to the play of the 
light; uut it soon acquires brilliancy and splendour 
beneath the vitreous lamina of the vamiish. Paint- 
ing in distemper, when carefully varnished, pro- 
duces a fine eft'ect. 

To make Pnissian blue paint. 

The ceruse is ground with oil, if for vai-nish 
made with essence, or merely with essence, which 
is equally proper for oil painting; and a quantity of 
either of these blues sufficient to produce the re- 
quired tone is added. 

For varnish, the ceruse is generally ground with 
oil of pinks added to a little essence, and is mixed 
up with camphorated mastic varnish, if the colour 
is destined for delicate objects; or with gallipot 
varnish if for wainscoting. Tills colour, when 
ground and mixed up with drying oil, produces a 
fine effect, if covered by a solid varnish made with 
alcokol or essence. 

If this oil colour be destined for expensive arti- 
cles, such as valuable furniture subject to friction, 
it may be glazed with the tiu-pentine copal vai-- 
nish. 

To 7nake Saxon blue. 

Saron blue, a vitreous matter coloured by oxide 
of cobalt, gives a tone of colour different fl-om that 
of the prussiate of iron and indigo. It is employed 
for sky-blues. The case is the same with blue ver- 
(liter, a preparation made from oxide of copper and 



lime. Both thfese blues stand well in distemper, 
in varnish, and in oil. 

Saxon blue requires to be ground with drj-ing 
oil, and to be mixed with gallipot varnish. If in- 
tended for oil painting, it is to be mixed up with 
resinous drying oil, which gives body to this vitre- 
ous matter. 

To make blue verditer. 

This may be ground with pure alcoholic varnisii 
added to a little essence; and may be mixed up 
with compound mastic yariiish if the colour is to 
be applied to delicate articles. Or mastic gallipot 
varnish, added to a little diying oil, may be used 
for grinding, and common gallipot varnish for 
mixing up, if the painting is intended for ceilings, 
wainscoting, &c. This colour is soft and dull, 
and requires a varnish to heighten the tone of it, 
and give it play. Turpentine copal varnish is pro- 
per tor this purpose, if the article has need of a 
durable varnish. 

To make green colour. 

Every green colour, simple or compound, when 
mixed up with a white ground, becomes soft, and 
gives a sea-green of greater or less strength, and 
more or less delicate, in the ratio of the respective 
quantities of the principal colours. Thus, greea 
oxides of copper, such as mountain green, verdi- 
gris, dry crystallized acetate of copper, green com- 
posed with blue verditer, and the Dutch pink of 
Troyes, or any other yellow, will form, with a base 
of a white colour, a sea green, the intensity of which 
may be easily changed or modified. The white 
ground for painting in distemper is generally com- 
posed of Bougival white (white marl), or white of 
Troyes (chalk), or Spanish white, (pure clay); but 
for varnish or oil painting, it is sought for in a me- 
tallic oxide. In this case, ceruse or pure white 
oxide of lead is employed. 

To make sea green for di'ttemper. 

Grind separately with water, mountain green and 
ceruse; and mix up with parchment size and water, 
adding ceruse in sufficient quantity to produce the 
degree of intensity required in the colour. Watin 
recommends the use of Dutch pink of Troyes and 
white oxide of lead, in proportions pointed out by 
experience ; because the colour thence resulting is 
more durable. 

In the case of a triple composition, begin to make 
the green by mixing Dutch pink with blue verdi- 
ter, and then lower the colour to sea green, by the 
addition of ceruse ground with water. 

To make sea green fur varnish and oils. 

Varnish requires that this colour should possess 
more body than it has in distemper; and this it ac- 
quires from the oil which is mixed with it. This 
addition even gives it more splendour. Besides, a 
green of a metallic nature Is substituted for the 
green of the Dutch pink, which is of a vegetable 
nature. 

A certain quantity of verdigris, pounded and 
sifted through a silk sieve, is ground separately 
with nut oil, half drying and half fat; and if the 
colour is intended for metallic surfaces, it must be 
diluted with camphorated mastic, or gallipot var- 
nish. 

On the other hand, the ceruse is ground with es- 
sence, or with oils to which one halt of essence has 
been added, and the two colours are mixed in pro- 
portions relative to the degree of intensity intendetj 
to be given to the mixture. It may readily be con- 
ceived that the principal part of this compositioQ 
consists of ceruse. 

If this colour be destined for articles of a certain 
value, crystallized verdigris, dried and pulverized, 
ought to be substituted for common verdigris, and 
the painting must be covered with a stratum of tho 
transparent or turpentine copal varnish. 



OIL AND WATER COLOURS. 



39 



The sea-greens, which admit into their compo- 
sition metallic coloui'lng parts, ai-e durable and do 
not change. 

The last compositions may be emploj'ed for sea- 
g^een in oil painting; but it will be proper to 
brighten the tone a little more tlian when varnish 
is used; because this colour becomes darker bj'' the 
addition of yellow which the oil developes in the 
course of time. 

Green for doors, shutters, balustrades, and arti- 
cles exposed to the air. 

Ceruse is the principal base of this coloui". 
When it is required to bring it to the tone most 
agreeable, grind, with nut-oil, two i>arts of ceruse, 
and Avith essence of turpentine one part of verdi- 
gris. Then mix up the two colours with one half 
of common drying nut-oil, and one half of i-esinous 
diying nut-oil. Tliis colour appears at first to be 
a pale blue ; but the impression of the light soon 
makes it pass to green, aud in this state it is very 
durable. 

The doses of the ceruse ought to be carried to a 
third more, when the colour is intended to be em- 
ployed in the centre of large cities: without this 
precaution it acquires a gloomy tone, which leads 
to a blackish green. This effect arises fi'ora the 
thick atmosphere, and the exhalations which viti- 
ate the air in large cities. In these cases white 
ought to be preferred to yellow, as the ground to a 
green colour. The custom among painters is to 
make the first coating yellow. 

To make compound green for rooms. i 

Take two pounds of ceruse, four ounces of Dutch 
pink of Troves, and one ounce of Prussian blue or 
indigo. This mixture produces a green, the in- 
tensity of which may be increased or diminished 
by the addition of j'ellow or blue. Grind with oil, 
to which a fourth part of essence has been added, 
and mix up with camphorated mastic or gallipot 
varnish. Both these contribute to the durability 
of the colour. If it be required to destroy the 
smell of the turpentine, form a glazing with com- 
pound mastic varnisli. 

To make a green for articles exposed to friction, as 
■wheels of carriages, &c. 

The great wear to which carriages are exposed 
by friction and continual washing, requires that a 
durable varnish should be employed when they are 
painted. Whatever care ma}' be taken by coach- 
men, it is impossible that continual rubbing with 
a mop or sponge, which becomes filled with eai'thy 

E articles, should not produce an alteration in the 
est varnish. To render the work solid, first ap- 
ply a ground composed of boiled linseed oil, ceruse 
previously dried over a pretty strong fire, to make 
It lose the white, and a little white vitriol, in a 
dose of a quarter of an ounce to each pound of mat- 
ter. The second stratum must be composed of the 
preceding green colour, viz. two parts (>f ceruse, 
and one part of verdigris, pulverized and ground 
■with boiled nut-oil, added to a fourth part of fat 
oil of pinks, and mixed up with drying oil. The 
third stratum consists of the same colour mixed 
up with camphorated copal varnish. 

To make red for the bodies of carriages. 
Artists differ in regard to the composition of 
the first strata. Matin recommends red de JBerri, 
(a kind of argillaceous ochre, mixed with litharge). 
Others prefer red oxide of lead. Either of these 
substances mny be employed, as the artist finds 
most convenient. vTake one-third of these buses 
for the first stratum, adding a little litharge, 
ground on porphviy, if red de Berri be used. 
Grind with oil, half "fat and half drying, and mix 
up with drying oil. The second stratum should 
be red oxide of lead, ground with drying oil, added 
to one half of essence. . The third ought to be 



composed in tlie same manner, but with vermil- 
ion. Now glaze the wliole with fat copal varnish, 
heightened with a little vermilion, and hasten the 
desiccation of the varnish by exposure to the sun, 
or to a strong current of air. 

The red is often prepared, from motives of 
economy, with red oxide of lead, without ver- 
milion. 

To paint in varnish on -wood. 

Lay on the wood two coats of Troyes white, di 
luted with size water. Next, lay over these a 
third coat of ceruse, then mix the colour wanteil 
with turpentine oil; add the vai-nish to it, and lay 
it on the wood, previously prepared as follows: — 

Polish the wood first with shave-grass or horse- 
tail, and then with pounce-stone. Lay afterwards 
six or seven coats of colour, mixed with vai-nish, 
allowing after each coat, a suflicient time to dry, 
before laying on the next; then polish over the last 
coat with pounce-stone, ground on marble into a 
subtle pov/der. When this is done, lay two or 
three coats of pure white varnish. As soon as this 
is dry, rub it over with a soft rag, dipped in fine 
olive oil; then rub it with tripoli, reduced to sub- 
tle powder, and having wiped it with a clean 
piece of linen, pass a piece of wash leather all 
over it. 

To Tnake red for cuffets. 

Varnish with vermilion is not confined merely 
to the wheels and bodies of carriages; it often 
forms the ground; and in this case it ought to be 
treated in the same manner. It requires, however, 
a little more labour. After the first stratum is ap- 
plied, it is rubbed with pumice-stone; the varnish 
is then laid on. at several times, and polished. 
Grind with boiled oil, added to essence, red oxide 
of lead, and mix up with gallipot varnish. . The 
second stratum is formed of- vermilion, heighten- 
ed with a small particle of Naples yellow. Then 
apply a third stratum of the varnish of the second, 
a little charged with vermilion. This varnish is 
very durable, and is susceptible of a fine polish. 
To make bright red. 

A mixture of lake with vermilion gives that 
beautiful bright red which painters employ for the 
sanguine parts. This red is sometimes imitated 
for varnishing small appendages of the toilette. It 
ought to be ground with varnish, and mixed up 
with the same, after which it is glazed and polish- 
ed. The mastic gallipot varnish is used for grmd- 
ing; gallipot varnish for mixing up; and campho- 
rated mastic varnish for glazing. 

To make cnnison, or rose colour. 

Carminated lake, that which is composed of 
alum, charged with the colom-ing part of cochineal, 
ceruse, and carmine, forms a beautiful crimson. 
It requires a particle of vermilion and of white lead. 

The use of this vai-nish is confined to valuable 
articles. 

To make violet colour. 

Violet is made indifferently with red and black, 
or red and blue; and to render it more splendid, 
with red, white, and blue. To compose violet, 
therefore, applicable to varnish, take miniimi, or 
what is still better, vermilion, and grind it with ^ 
the camphorated mastic varnisli, to which a fourth 
part of boiled oil, and a little ceruse have been 
added: then add a little Prussian blue, ground in 
oil. The proportions requisite for the degi-ee of 
intensity to be given to the colour will soon be 
found by experience. The white brightens the 
tint. The vermilion and Prussian blue, separate 
or mixed, give hard tones, which must be soften- 
ed by an intermediate substance, that modifies, to 
their advantage, the reflections of the light 
^To make chesniU colour. 

This colour is composed of red, yellow, and 



40 



UKR^RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



black. The English red, or red ochre of Au- 
\efgne, ochre de rue, and a little black, form a 
dark chesnut colour. It is proper for painting of 
every kind. If English red, which is dryei,- than 
that of Auvergne, be employed, it will be proper, 
when the colour is intended for varnish, to grind 
it with drying nut oil. The ochre of Auvergne 
may be ground with the mastic gallipot, and mixed 
up with gallipot varnish. 

The most experienced artists grind dark co- 
lours with linseed oil, when the situation will ad- 
mit of its being used, because it is more dicing. 
For ai'ticles without doors nut oil is preferable. 
The colours of oak-wood, walnut-tree, chesnut, 
olive, and yellow, require the addition of a little 
lithai'ge ground on porphyry; it hastens the desic- 
cation of the colour, and gives it body. 

But if it is intended to cover these colours with 
varnish, as is generally done in wainscoting, tliey 
iTiust be mixed up witli essence, to whicli a little 
oil has been added. The colour is then much bet- 
ter disposed to receive the varnish, under which it 
exhibits all the splendour it can derive from tlie 
reflection of the light. 

To make a dryer for painting. 

Vitreous oxide of lead (litharge), is of no other 
wse in painting than to free oils from tlieir greasy 
particles, for the purpose of communicating to i 
them a drying quality. Red litharge, liowever, 
ought to be preferred to the greenish yellow: it is 
not so hard, and answers better for the purpose to 
•which it is destined. 

When painters wish to obtain a common colour 
of the ochrey kind, and have no boiled oil by them, 
they may paint with linseed oil, not freed from its 
greasy particles, by mixing with the colour about 
two or three parts of litharge, ground on a piece 
of porphyry with water, dried, and reduced to fine 
powder, for 16 parts of oil. The colour has a 
great deal of bouy, and dries as speedily as if 
mixed with drying oil. 

Siccitive oil. 

Boil together for two hours on a slow and equal 
fire, half an ounce of litharge, as much calcined 
ceruse, and the same of terre d'onibre and talc, 
■with one pound of linseed oil, carefully stirring 
the whole time. It must be carefully skimmed 
and clarified. The older it grows the better it is. 
A quarter of a pint- of this dri/er is required to 
every pound of colour. 

To make cheap beautiful green paint. 

The cost of this paint is less than one-fourth of 
oil colour, and the beauty far superior. Take 4 
pounds of Roman vitriol, and pour on it a tea-ket- 
tle full of boiling water; when dissolved, add '2 
pounds of pearl ash, and stir tlie mixture well 
•with a stick, until tlie effervescence cease: then 
add a quarter of a pcnid of pulverized yellow ar- 
senic, and stir the whole together. Lay it on with 
a paint brush, and if the wall has not been painted 
before, two, or even three coats will be requisite. 
To paint a common sized room witli tliis colour, 
•\vill not cost more than 5 or 6 dollars. If a pea- 
green is required, put in less, and if an apple- 
green more, of the yellow arsenic. 
To paint inftsco. 

It is performed with -water-colours on fresh 
plaster; or a wall laid with mortar not dry. This 
sort of painting has a gi-eat advantage by its incor- 
porating with tlie mortar, and, drying along -H'ith 
it, becomes very durable. 

The ancients painted on stucco; and we may 
remark in Vitnivius, what infinite care they took 
in making the plastering of their buildings, to ren- 
der them beautiful and lasting; though tlie modern 
painters find a plaster of lime and sand preferable 
to it. . 



To paint fire places and hearths. 
The Genevese employ a kind of stone, knovn 
under the name of molasse, for constructing fire- 
places and stoves, after the Gci-man manner. This 
stone is brought from Saura, a village of Savoy, 
near Geneva. It has a greyish colour, inclining 
to blue, which is very agreeable to the eye. Thia 
tint is similar to that communicated to common 
white-washing with lime, chalk, or gypsum, the 
dulness of which is corrected by a particle of blue 
extract of indigo, or by charcoal black. 

To make red distemper for tiles. 
Dip a brush in water from a common ley, orin 
soapy water, or in water charged with a 20th ])art 
of the carbonate of potash (alkali of potash), and 
draw it over the tiles. This washing thoroughly 
cleanses them, and disposes all the parts of the 
pavement to receive the distemper. 

When dry, dissolve in 8 pints of water half a 
pound of Flanders glue; and while the mixture is 
boiling, add two pounds of red ochre; mix the 
M'hole with great care. Then apply a stratum of 
this mixtiu-e to the pavement, and when dry apply 
a second stratum with drying linseed oil, and a 
third with tlie same red, mixed up with size. 
When the whole is dry, rub it with wslx. 
To distemper in badigeon. 
Badigeon is employed for giving an uniform tint 
to houses rendered brown by time, and to churches. 
Badigeon, in general, has a yellow tint. That 
which succeeds best is composed of the saw-dust 
or powdeF of the same kind of stone, and slacked 
lime, mixed up in a bucket of water, holding in 
solution a pound of the sulphate of alumina, (alum). 
It is applied with a brush. 

At Paris, and in other parts of France, where 
the large edifices are constructed of a soft kind of 
stone, which is yellow, and sometimes white, when 
it comes from the quarry, but which in time be- 
comes brown, a little ochre de rue is substituted 
for the powder of the stone itself, and restores to 
the edifice its original tint. 

To make red lead. 
Fuse a quantity of lead upon a hearth, and work 
it about with au iron wet, till tlie calx acquires a 
yellow colour. Then grind it small with water at 
a mill, constructed for the purpose; and well wasl» 
it to deprive it of small lumps, which may remain 
uncalcined. Put this massicot, well dried, into stone 
pots, whicli are placed horizontally in the colouv 
furnace, till them something more than a quarter 
full, and heat them till tiiey acquire a red colour; 
place a brick at tlie mouth of each pot to "•"online 
the heat; but remove it occasionally to work the 
matter about. By continuing tliis heat a sufficient 
lime, the colour will become finer till the minium 
is perfect. 

Red lead from lead, and also from litharge, is 
not so good as the former, on account of the scoria 
of otiier substances mixed with the litharge. The 
makers of flint-glass, who use much red lead in 
their glass, find tiiat it does not flux so well as that 
made from the direct oxidation of tiie metal, as prac- 
tised in the county of Derby. Those furnaces are 
like a baker's oven, with a low vaulted roof, and 
two party-walls, rising from their floor, which 
leave a middle space, wlierethe pit-coal is burned' 
the flame being drawn over the party-walls, strikes 
on the roof, and is thence reflected on eacii side, by 
which the lead there is kept melted. The surface 
of lead, by its exposition to air, becomes instantly 
covered M-itli a dusty pellicle, which is successively 
removed: the greater part of the metal is thus con- 
verted into a yellowish-greeni powder, which isafter- 
wards ground fine in a mill, and washed; the he- 
terogeneous particles of lead, still remaining, are 
separated by passing the wash throagh sieves; tbe 



OIL AND WATER COLOURSt 



l^^ow colour becomes uniform, and is called mas- 
sicot, by tbe painters. The yellow oxide, *ell 
dried, is thrown again into the furnace, where it 
is constantly stirred in a continual heat; so tliat in 
about 48 hours, this oxide acquires a vivid red, in- 
clining to orange colour, and is known by the name 
of minium, or red lead. 

The red lead made in France is of a consider- 
ably worse quality than what is made in England 
or Holland. A ton of lend generally gives twenty- 
two hundred weight of minium. It is said, that at 
Nuremberg the increased weight of red lead 
amounts to one-fifth of the metal; this may pro- 
bably depend on the method employed, as Watson 
thinks. Neumann says, that the best Venetian 
minium is made from ceruse, or white lead. 
To make a composition, for rendering canvas, lin- 
en, and cloth, durable, pliable, and ruiater-proof. 
To make it black. 
First, the canva?^ linen, or cloth, is to be wash- 
ed with hot or cold water, tlie former preferable, 
80 as to discharge the stiftening whicli all new can- 
vas, linen, or cloth contains; when the stiftening is 
perfectly discharged, hang the canvas, linen, or 
cloth up to dry; when perfectly so, it must be con- 
stantly rubbed by the hand until it becomes supple; 
it must then be stretched in a hollow frame very 
tight, and the following ingredients are to be laid 
on with a brush for the first coat, viz. eight quarts 
of boiled linseed oil, half an ounce of burnt umber, 
a quarter of an ounce of sugar of lead, a quarter of 
an ounce of white vitriol, a quarter of an ounce of 
white lead. 

The above ingredients, except the white lead, 
must be ground fine with a small quantity of the 
above-mentioned oil, on a stone and muUer; then 
mix all the ingredients up with the oil, and add 3 
oz. of lamp-black, which must be put over a slow 
fire in an iron broad vessel, and kept stirred until 
the grease disappears. In consequence of the can- 
vas being washed and then rubbed, it will appear 
rough and nappy : the following method must be 
taken with tiie second coat, viz. the same ingredi- 
ents as before, except the white lead; this coat will 
set in a few hours, according to the weather; when 
Bet, take a diy paint-brush and work it very hard 
with the grain of the canvas; this will cause the 
nap to lie smooth. 

The third and last coat makes a complete jet 
black, which continues its colour: — take tliree gal- 
lons of boiled linseed oil, an ounce of burnt umber, 
half an ounce of sugar of lead, a quarter of an ounce 
of white vitriol, half an ounce of Prussian blue, 
and a quarter of an ounce of verdigris; this must 
be all ground very fine in a small quantity of the 
above oil, then add four ounces of lamp-black, put 
througli the same process of fire as the first coat. 
The above are to be laid on and used at discretion, 
in a similar way to paint. To make lead colour, 
the same ingredients as before in making the black, 
with the addition of white lead, in proportion to 
the colour you wish to have, light or dark. 
To make it green. 
Yellow ochre, four ounces, Prussian blue, three 
quarters of an ounce, white lead, three ounces, 
white vitriol, half an once, sugar of lead, a quarter 
of an ovince, good boiled linseed oil sufticient to 
msike it of a thin quality, so as to go through the 
canvas. 

To make it yello-w. 
Yellow ochre, foui- ounces, burnt umber, a quar- 
ter of an ounce, white lead, six or seven ounces, 
white vitriol, a quarter of an ounce, sugar of lead, 
a quarter of an ounce, boiled linseed oil, as in 
green. 

To make it red. 
&ed lead, four ounces, vermilion, two ouncas, 



white vitriol, a quarter of an ounce, sugar of lead^ 

a quarter of an ounce, boiled linseed oil as before. 

To make it grey. 

Take white lead, a little Prussian blue, accord- 
ing to the quality you want, which will turn it to 
a grey colour; a proportion of sugar of lead and 
white vitriol, as mentioned in the other colours, 
boiled linseed oil sufficient to make it of a thia 
quality. 

To make it -white. 

Wliite lead, four pounds, spirits of turpentine, a 
quarter of a pint, white vitriol, half an ounce, 
sugar of lead, half an ounce, boiled oil sufficient to 
make it of a thin quality. 

The above ingredients, of different colours, are 
calculated as near as possible; but, as one article 
may be stronger than another, which will soon be 
discovered in using, in that case the person work- 
ing the colour may add a little, or diminish, as he 
may find necessary. 

'I'he same preparation for wood or iron, only re- 
ducing the oil about three quarts out of eiglit, and 
to be applied in tiie same manner as paint or var- 
nish, with a brush. 



ARTISTS' OIL COLOURS. 

On colouring materials. 
The composition of colours as respects those 
leading tests of excellence, preservation of general 
tints, and permanency of brilliant hues, dm'ing 
their exposure for many centuries to the impairing 
assaults of the atmosphere, is a preparation in 
whicii the ancient preparers of these oily com- 
pounds, have very much excelled, in their skilful- 
ness, the moderns. It is a fact, that the ancient 
painted walls, to be seen at Dendaras, although 
exposed for many ages to the open air, without 
any covering or protection, still possess a perfect 
brilliancy of colour, as vivid as when painted, per- 
haps 2000 years ago. The Egyptians mixed their 
colours willi some gummy substance, and applied 
them detached from each other, without any blend- 
ing or mixture. They appear to have used six co- 
lours, viz. white, black, blue, red, yellow, and 
green; they first covei-ed the canvas entirely with 
white, upon which they traced the design in black, 
leaving out the lights of the ground colour. They 
used minium for red, and generally of a dark 
tinge. Pliny mentions some painted ceilings ia 
his day in the town of Ardea, which had been ex- 
ecuted at a date prior to the foundation of Rome. 
He expresses great surprise and admiration at their 
freshness, after the lapse of so many centuries. 
These are, undoubtedly, evidences of the excel- 
lences of the ancients in their art of preparing co- 
lours. In the number of them, there is, probably, 
not much difference between the ancient and mo- 
dern knowledge. The ancients seem to have been 
possessed of some colours of which we are igno- 
rant, while they were unacquainted, themselves, 
with some in those more recently discovered. The 
improvements of chemistry have, certainly, in later 
times, enriched painting with a profusion of tints, 
to which, in point of brilliancy at least, no combina- 
tion of primitive colours known to the ancients coulil 
pretend; but the rapid fading in the colours of 
some of the most esteemed masters of the Modera 
School, proves, at least, tliere is something defec- 
tive in their bases, or mode of preparing them. 
This fault is peculiai-ly evident in many of the pro- 
ductions from our esteemed master. Sir Joshua 
Reynolds, which, although tliey have not issued 
from his pallet more than 40 years, carry an im- 
poverishment of surface, from the premature fad- 
ing of their colours, so as almost to lose, in many 



42 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



instances, the identity of the subjects they repre- 
sent. On this head, (and a most important one it is), 
t!ie superiority of the ancient compounders com- 
pletely carries away the palm of merit. 
To prepare vltramariue. 
Separate from the stents tlie most apparent parts 
of tlie ultramarine; reduce them to the size of a 
pea, and, having broui^lit tliem to a red heat in a 
cinicible, tlu-ow Uicm in that state, into the strong- 
est distilled vinegar. Then grind them witii the 
vinegar, and reduce them to an impaljiable powder; 
next take of wax, red colophoniuni, and lapis lazvdi, 
an equal quantity, say half an ounce of eacli of 
tliese three substances ; melt the wax and the co- 
lophouium in a profier vessel, and add the powder 
to the melted matter, then pour the mass into cold 
■water, and let it rest eight days. Next take two 
glass vessels filled with water, as hot as the hand 
can bear, knead the mass in the water, and when 
that the purest part of the ultramarine has been ex- 
tracted, remove the resinous mass into the other 
vessels, where finish the kneading to separate the 
remainder; if the latter portion appears to be much 
inferior, and pale^than the former, let it rest for 
four days, to facilitate the precipitation of tlie ul- 
tramarine, which extractbydecantation, and wash 
it in fair water. 

Ultramarine of four qualities may be separated 
bj' this process. The first separation gives the 
finest, and as tlie operation is repeated, the beauty 
of the powder decreases. 

Kinckel considers immersion in vinegar as the 
essential part of the operation. It facilitates the 
division, and even the solution of the zeolitic and 
earthy particles soluble in that acid. 

Another method. — Separate the blue parts, and 
reduce them, on a piece of porphyry, to an impal- 
pable powder, which besprinkle with linseed oil, 
then make a paste with equal parts of yellow wax, 
pine resin, and colophonium, say, eight ounces of 
each; and add to this paste, half an ounce of lin- 
seed oil, two ounces of oil of tiu-peutine, and as 
much pure mastic. 

Then take four parts of this mixture, and one of 
lapis lazuli, gi-ound with oil on a piece of porphy- 
ry, mix the whole warm, and suffer it to digest 
for a month, at the end of which, knead the mix- 
ture thoroughly in warm water, till the blue part 
separates from it, and at the end of some days de- 
cant the liquor. This ultramarine is exceedingly 
beautiful. 

These two processes are nearly similar, if we 
except the preliminary preparation of Kinckel, 
which consists in bringing the lapis lazuli to a red 
heat, and immersing it in vinegSi-. It may he rea- 
dily seen, by the judicious observations of Mor- 
graff on the nature of this colouring part, that this 
calcination may be hurtful to certain kinds of 
azure stone. This preliminary operation, how- 
ever, is a test which ascertains the purity of the 
ultramarine. 
' To extract the remainder of ultramarine. 
As this matter is valuable, some portions of ul- 
tramarine may be extracted from the paste which 
has been kneaded in water; nothing is necessary 
but to mix it with four times its weight of linseed 
oil, to pour the matter into a glass of conical form, 
and to expose the vessel in the balneum marise of 
an alembic. The water of which must be kept in 
a state of ebullition for several hours. The liquidi- 
ty of the mixt^ure allows the ultramai-ine to sepa- 
rate itself, and the supernatant oil is decanted. 
The same immersion of the colouring matter- in 
oil is repeated, to separate the resinous parts 
which still adhere to it; and the operation is finish- 
ed by boiling it in water to separate the oil. The 



deposit is ultramarine; but it is inferior to that 
separated by the first washing. 
To ascertain whether ultramanne he adulterated- 
As the i)rice of ultramarine, which is already 
very high, may become more so on account of th<j 
difficulty of obtaining lapis lazuli, it is of great 
importance that painters should be able to detect 
adulteration. Ultramarine is pure if, when brought 
to a red heat in a crucible, it stands that trial with- 
out changing its cblour; as small quantities only 
are subjected to this test, a comparison may be 
made, at very little expense, with tlie part which 
has not been exposed to the fire. If adulterated, 
it liecomes blackish or paler. 

This proof, however, may not always be con- 
clusive. When ultramarine of the lowest quality 
is mixed with azure, it exhibits no more body thaa 
sand ground on porphyry would do; ultramarine 
treated w itli oil assumes a brown tint. 

Another method. — Ultramarine is extracted fiom 
lapis lazuli, or azure stone, a kind of heavy zeo- 
lite, which is so hard as to strike fire with steel, 
to cut glass, and to be susceptible of a fine polish. 
It is of a bright blue colour, variegated with white 
or yellow veins, enriched with small metallic 
glands, and even veins of a gold colour, which are 
only sulphurets of iron (martial pyrites): it breaks 
irregularly. The specimens most esteemed are 
those charged with the greatest quantity of blue. 

Several artists have employed their ingenuity oa 
processes capable of extracting ultramarine in its 
greatest purity: some, however, are contented with 
separating the uncoloured portions of the stone, 
reducing the coloured part to an impalpable pow- 
der, and then grinding it for a long time with oil 
of poppies. But it is certain that, in consequence 
of this ineffectual method, the beauty of thei colour 
is injured by parts which are foreign to it: and 
that it does not produce the whole effect which 
ought to be expected from pure ultramarine. 

It may be readily conceived that the emment 
qualities of ultramarine must have induced those 
first acquainted with the pi-ocesses proper for in- 
creasing the merit and value of it, to keep them a 
profound secret. This was indeed the case; ultra- 
marine was prepared long before any account of 
the method of extracting and pui-iiyiiig it was 
known. 

To prepare cobalt bhie. — Bleii de Thenard, 
Having reduced the ore to powder, calcine it in 
a reverberatory fm-nace, stirring it frequently. 
The chimney of the furnace should liavc a strong 
draught, in order that the calcination may be 
perfect, and the arsenical and sulphurous acid va- 
pours may be carried off. The calcination is to 
be continued until these vapours cease to be disen- 
gaged, whicli is easily ascertained by collecting in 
a ladle a little of the gas in tlie furnace; tlie pre- , 
sence or absence of the garlic odour determines 
the fact. When calcined, boil the result slightly 
in an excess of weak nitrous acid, in a glass ma- 
trass, decant the supernatant liquor, and evaporate 
the solution thus obtained, nearly to dryness, in a ^ 
cajisule of platina or porcelain. This residuum is 
to be thrown into boiling water and filtered, and a 
solution of the sub-phosphate of soda to be poured 
into the clear liquor, which precipit.ates an insolu- 
ble phosphate of cobalt. After washing it well on 
a filler, collect it while yet in a gelatinous form, 
and mix it intimately, with eight times its weight 
of alumine, in the same state — if properly done, 
the paste will have a uniform tint, through its 
whole mass. This mixture is now to be spread on 
smooth plates and put into a stove; when dry and 
brittle, pound it in a mortar, enclose it in a cover- 
ed earthen crucible, and heat it to a cherry red. 



ARTISTS' OIL COLOtJRS. 



45 



for half an hour. On opening the crucible, if the 
operation has been carefully conducted, the beau- 
tiful and desired product will be found. Care 
sliould be taken that the alumiiie in the gelatinotis 
^ann, be precipitated from the alum by a sufficient 
excess of ammonia, and that it is completely puri- 
fied by washing with water filtered tlu-ougli char- 
coal. 

To make artificial Saocon blue. 

Saxon blue may he successfully imitated, by 
mixing with a divided earth prussiate of iron, at 
the moment of its formation and ])recipitation. 

Into a solution of 144 grains of sulphate of iron, 
pour a solution of prussiate of potasli. 

At the time of the formation of iron, add, in the 
same vessel, a solution of two ounces of alum, and 
pour in with it, the solution of potash, just suffi- 
cient to decompose tlie sulphate of alumine; for a 
dose of alkali superabundant to the decomposition 
of that salt might alter the prussfate of iron. It 
will, therefore, be much better to leave a little 
alum, which may afterwards be carried off by 
washing. 

As soon as the alkaline liquor is added, the alu- 
mine precipitated becomes exactly mixed with the 
Erussiate of iron, the intensity of which it lessens 
y bringing it to the tone of common Saxon blue. 
The matter is then thrown on a filter, and after 
being washed in clean water, is dried. This sub- 
stance is a kind of blue verditer, the intensity of 
which may vaiy according to the greater or less 
quantity of the sulphate of alumine decomposed. 
It may be used for painting in distempei-. 
To compose blue verditei: 

Dissolve the copper, cold, in nitric acid (aqua 
fortis), and produce a precipitation of it by means 
of quick-lime, employed in such doses that it will 
be absorbed by the acid, in order tliat the precipi- 
tate maybe pure' copper, that is, without any mix- 
ture. When the liquor has been decanted, wash 
the precipitate, and spread it out on a piece of 
linen cloth to drain. If a portion of this precipi- 
tate, whicli is green, be placed on a grinding stone, 
and if a little quick-lime in powder be added, the 

freen colour will be immediately changed into a 
eautiful blue. The proportion of the lime added 
is from seven to ten parts in a hundred. When 
the whole matter acquires the consistence of paste, 
desiccation soon takes place. 

Blue verditer is proper for distemper, and for 
varnish; but it is not fit for oil painting, as the oil 
renders it very dark. If used it ought to be bright- 
ened with a great deal of white. 

To make A^aples yellow. 

Take 12 ounces of ceruse, 2 ounces of the sul- 
phuret of antimony, half an ounce of calcined alum, 
1 ounce of sal ammoniac. 

Pulverize these ingredients, and having mixed 
tliem thoroughly, put them into a capsule or cru- 
cible of eartli, and place over it a covering of the 
same subst&nce. Expose it at first to a gentle heat, 
which must be gradually increased till the capsule 
is moderately red. The oxidation arising from 
this process requires, at least, three hours' expo- 
sure to heat before it is completed. The result of 
this calcination is Naples yellow, which is ground 
in water on a porphyry slab with an ivory spatula, 
as iron would alter the colour. Tlie paste is then 
dried and preserved for use. It is a yellow oxide 
of lead and antimony. 

There is no necessity of adhering so strictly to 
the doses as to prevent their being varied. If a 
golden colour be required in the yellow, the pro- 
portions of the sulphuret of antimony and muriate 
of ammoniac must be increased. In like manner, 
if you wish it to be more fusible, increase tlie quan- 



tities of sulphuret of anthnony and calcined sul- 
pliate of alumine. 

To make Jilontpellier yellow. 
Take 4 pounds of litliarge, well sifted, divide it 
into four equal portions, and put it into as many 
glazed earthen vessels. Dissolve also 1 pound of 
sea salt in about 4 pounds of water. 

Pour a fourth part of this solution into each of 
the four earthen vessels, to form a light paste. Let 
the whole rest for some hours, and when the sur- 
face begins to grow white, stir the mass with a 
strong wooden spatula. Without this motion it 
would require too great hardness, and a part of tlie 
salt would escape decomposition. 

As the consistence increases, dilute the matter 
with a new quantity of the solution; and if this is 
not sufficient, recourse must be had to simple wa- 
ter to maintain the same consistence. The paste 
will then be very white, and in the course ot 
t^^•enty-four hours becomes uniform and free from 
lumps; let it remain for the same space of time, 
but stir it at intervals to complete tlie decomposi- 
tion of the salt. The paste is then well washed to 
carry oft' the caustic soda (soda deprived of car- 
bonic acid) which adlieres to it, the mass is put In- 
to strong linen cloth and subjected to a press. 

The remaining paste is distributed in flat vessels; 
and these vessels are exposed to heat, in order to 
efi'ect a proper Oxidation (calcination), which con- 
verts it into a solid, yellow, brilliant matter, some- 
times crystallized in transverse strise. 

This is Montpellier yellow, which maybe ap- 
plied to the same purposes as Naples yellow. 
'To prepare carmine. 
This kind of fecula, so fertile in gradations of 
tone by the effect of mixtures, and so grateful to 
the eye in all its shades, so useful to the painter, 
and so agreeable to the delicate beauty, is only the 
colouring part of a kind of dried insect known un- 
der the name of cochineal. 

A mixture of 36 graias of chosen seed, 18 grains 
ofcutour bark, and as much alum thrown into a 
decoction of 5 grains of pulverized cochineal, and 
5 pounds of water, gives, at the end of from five to 
ten days, a red fecula, which when dried weighs 
from 40 to 48 grains. This fecula is carmine. The 
remaining decoction, which is still highly colom'- 
ed, is reserved for the preparation of carminated 
lakes. 

To prepare Dutch pink from ivoad. 
Boil the stems of woad in alum water, and theu 
mix the liquor with clay, marl or chalk, which 
will become charged with the colour of the de- 
coction. When the earthy matter has acquired 
consistence, form it into small cakes, and expose 
them to dry. It is under this form tliat the Dutch 
pinks are sold in the colour shops. 

Dutch pink from yelloiv berries. 
The small blackthorn produces a fruit which, 
when collected green, are called yellow berries. 
These seeds, when boiled in alum water, form a 
Dutch pink superior to the former. A certain 
quantity of clay, or marl, is mixed witli the decoc- 
tion, by w hich means, tlie colouring part of the 
berries unites witli the earthy matter, and commu- 
nicates to it a beautiful yellow colom*. 
Broivnish yellorv Dutch pink. 
Boil for an liour in 1 2 pounds ot water, 1 pound 
of yellow berries, 1-2 pound of the shavings of the 
wood of the Barberry shrub, and 1 pound of wood- 
ashes. The decoction is strained through a piece 
of linen cloth. 

Pour into tliis mixture warm, and at different 
times, a solution of 2 pounds of the sulphate of 
alumine in 5 pounds of water; a slight efferves- 
cence will take place; and the sulphate being de- , 



44 



UNIVERSAL RFX:EIPT BOOS. 



composed, the aluminc, which isprrcipitateil, will 
eeize on the colouring part. Tiie liquor musttlien 
Lc filtered through a piece oi" close linen, and the 
paste which remains on the cloth, when divided into 
s«iuare pieces, is exposed on hoards to dry. This is 
Li-own Dulcli pink, because llie clay in it is pure. 
The intensity of the colour sliews the (|uality of 
tliis pink, wliich is superior to that of the other 
compositions. 

Dutch pink for oil painting. 

By substituting for clay a substance which pre- 
sents a mixture of that earth and metallic oxide, 
the result will be Dutch pink of a veiy superior 
kind. 

Boil separately I lb. of yellow berries, and 3 oz. 
of the sulphate of alumine.in 1'2 pounds of water, 
which must be reduced to 4 pounds. Strain the 
decoction througii apiece of linen, and squeeze it 
strongly. Then mix tip with it 2 pounds of ceruse, 
finely ground on porphyry, and 1 pound of pulver- 
ized'Spanish white. Evaporate the mixture till 
the mass acquires tlie consistence of a paste; and 
havmg formed it into small cakes, dry them in the 
filiade. 

When these cakes are dry, reduce them to pow- 
der, and mix them with a new decoction of yellow 
beiTJes. By repeating this process a tliird time, a 
hrown Dutch pink will be obtained. 

In general the decoctions must be warm when 
mixed with the earth. They ought not to be long 
kept, as their colour is speedily altered by the fer- 
rnentation; care must be taken also to use a wooden 
spatula for stirring the mixture. 

Wlien only one decoction of wood or yellow ber- 
ries is employed to colour a given quantity of earth, 
. the Dutch pink resulting from it is of a bright-yel- 
low colour, and is easily mixed for use. When the 
colouring part of several decoctions is absorbed, 
the composition becomes brown, and is mixed 
with more difficulty, especially if the paste be ar- 
gillaceous: for it is the property of this earth to 
unite with oily and resinous parts, adhere strongly 
to them, and incorporate with them. In the latter 
case, the artist must not be satisfied with mixing the 
colour: it ought,to be ground, an operation equally 
proper for every kind of Dutch pink, and even tlie 
softest, when destined for oil painting. 

To make lake from Brazil ivood. 

Boil 4 oz. of the raspings of brazil wood in 15 
pints of pure water, till the liquor is reduced to '2 
pints. It will be of a dark red colour, inclining to 
violet; but the addition of 4 or 5 oz. of alum will 
give it a hue inclining to rose-colour. ' When the 
liquor has been strained through a piece of linen 
cloth, if 4 oz. of the carbonate of soda be added with 
caution, on account of the etfervescence which 
takes place, the colour, whicli by this addition is 
deprived of its mordant, will resume its former 
tint, and deposit a lake, which, when washed and 
properly dried, has an exceedingly rich and mel- 
low violet-red colour. 

Another. — If only one half of the dose of mineral 
alkali be emploj'ed for this precipitation, the tint 
of the lake becomes clearer: because the bath still 
retains the undecomposed aluminous mordant. 

Another. — If the method employed for Dutch 
pinks be followed by mixing the aluminous decoc- 
tion of Brazil wood with pure clay, such as Span- 
ish white and white of Alorat, anil if the mixture 
be deposited on a filter to receive the necessary 
■washing, a lake of a very bright dark rose-colour 
will be obtained from the driers. 

Lakes from other colotirinq- siihstances. 

By the same process a very beautiful lake maybe 
extracted from a decoction of logwood. In general, 
lakes of all colours, and of all the shades of these co- 
^virs, may be extraeted from substances which give 



up their colouring part to boiling water; because tt 'a 
afterwards comnmnic.ated by decomposition to fnc 
alumine precipitated from sulphate of alumine, by 
means of an alkali; or the tincture may be mixed 
with a pure and exceedingly white argillaceous sub- 
stance, such as real Spanish white, or white o? 
Morat. 

To prepare ro7i!^e. 

Carmine united to talc, in ditferent proportions, 
forms rouge employed for the toilette. Talc is 
distinguished also by the name of Briancon chalk. 
It is a substance composed, in a great measure, of 
clay, combined naturally with silex. 

Carmine, as well as carrainated lakes, the co- 
louring part of which is borrowed from cocltlneal, 
are the most esteemed of all the compositions of 
this kind, because their colouring part maintains 
itself without degradation. There are even cases 
where the addition of caustic ammonia, which al- 
ters so many volouring matters, is employed to 
heighten its colour. It is for this pm-pose thattliOise 
■wlio colour prints employ it. 

Carminated lake from madder. 

Boil 1 part of madder in from 1'2 to 15 pints of 
water, and continue the ebullition till it be reduced 
to about 2 lbs. Tiien strain the decoction through 
a piece of strong linen cloth, which must be well 
squeezed; and add to the decoction 4 oz. of alum. 
The tint will be a beautiful bright,red, which the 
matter will retain if it be mixed with proper clay. 
In this case, expose the thick liquor which is thus 
produced, on a linen filter, and subject it to one 
washing, to remove the alum. The lake, when ta- 
ken from the driers, will retain this bright primi- 
tive colour given by the alum. 

Another method. — If in the process for making 
this lake, decomposition be employed, by mixing 
with the bath an alkaline liquor, the alum, v/hich is 
decomposed, deprives tlie bath of its mordant, and 
the lake, obtained after the subsequent wishings, 
appears of the colour of the madder bath, without 
any addition: it is of a reddish brown. In this ope- 
ration 7 or 8 oz. of alum ought to be employed for 
each pound of madder. 

This kind of lake is exceedingly fine, but a 
brighter red colour may be given to it, by mix- 
ing" the washed precipitate with almn water, before 
drying. 

Improvement on ditto. 

If the aluminated madder bath be sharpened 
with acetate of lead, or with arseniate of potash, 
the operator still obtains, by the addition of car- 
bonate of soda, a rose-coloured lake of greater op 
less strength. 

To prepare a substitute for cochineal. 

The insects of the feverfew, or mother wort 
(matricaria parthenium), will produce a substance 
to replace cochineal, in fine scarlet dj^es. To de- 
tach the insects from the plants, without bruising 
them, and thereby losing the colouring matter, put , 
a quantity, as sixteen pounds of stalks, in a case 
nearly air-tight, and heat it in an oven, which will 
suffocate the insects. Thisquantity will yield above 
a draclim of dried insects. In an instance where- 
in a comparison was made with cochineal, two 
similar pieces of woollen cloth were passed througii 
the common mordant bath of muriate of tin, and 
then one of the pieces in a cochineal bath, and the 
other in a bath ])repared with the mother-wort in- 
sects. The difference between the two dyes was 
scarcely perceptible, and they equally resisted tite 
chemical re-agents. Nor were they destroyed by 
sulphuric acid, or oxygenated muriatic acid. 
To make dark red. 

Dragon's blood, infused warm in varnish, gives 
reds, more or less dark, according to the quantity 
of the colouring; resin which combinee with tha 



ARTISTS' OIL COLOURS. 



43 



VarirtSh. Tlie artist, therefore, has it in his power 
to vary the tones at pleasure. 

Though cochineal, in a state of division, gives to 
essence very little colour in comparison with that 
"whicli it communicates to water, carmine may be 
introduced into the composition of varnish colour- 
ed by dragon's blood. The result will be a pur- 
ple red, from which various shades may be easily 
tormed. 

To prepare violet. 
A mixtm-e of carminated varnish and drasjon's 
blood, added to that coloured by prussiate of iron, 
produces violet. 

To make a fine red lake. 
Boil stick-lac in water, filter the decoction, and 
evaporate the clear liquor to dryness over a gentle 
fire. The occasion of this easy separation is, that 
tlie beautiful red colour here separated, adheres 
only slightly to the outsides of the sticks broken off 
tlie trees along with the gum lac, and readily com- 
municates itself to boiling water. Some of this 
sticking matter also atlliering to the gum itself, it 
is proper to boil the whole together; for the gum 
does not at all prejudice the colour, nor dissolve in 
boiling water: so that after tiiis operation the gum 
ia as fit for making sealing-wax as before, and for 
all other uses which do not i-equire its colour. 
To make a beautiful red lake. 
Take any quantity of cochineal, on which pour 
twice its weight of alcohol, and as much distilled 
^pate^. Infuse for some days near a gentle lire, 
aa(f then filter. To the filtered liquor add a few 
drops of the solution of tin, and a fine red precipi- 
tate will be formed. Continue to add a little so- 
lution of tin every two hours, till the whole of the 
colouring matter is precipitated. Lastly, edulco- 
rate the precipitate by washing it in a large quan- 
tity of distilled water and then dry it. — Moiitldij 
MLagazine. 

To prepare Florentine lake. 
The sediment of cochineal that remains in the 
bottom of the kettle in which carmine is made, 
may be boiled with about four quarts of water, and 
die red liquor left after the preparation of the cai'- 
mine, mixed with it, aud the wiiolc precipitated 
•witli the solution of tin. The red precipitate must 
be frequently washed over witli water. Exclu- 
sively of this, two ounces of fresh cochineal, and 
one of crystals of taitar, are to be boiled witli a 
sufficient quantity of water, poured off clear, and 
precipitated with the solution of tin, and the pre- 
cipitate washed. At the same time two pounds of 
alum are also to he dissolved in water, precipitat- 
ed with a lixivium of potasli, and the white earth 
i-epKiatedly washed with boiling water. Finally, 
both precipitates are to be mixed together in their 
liquid state, put upon a filter and dried. For the 
preparation of a cheaper sort, instead of cochineal, 
oue pound of brazil wood may be employed in the 
preceding manner. 

To make a lake from madder. 
Inclose two ounces troy of the finest Dutch mad- 
der in a bag of fine and strong calico, large enough 
to hold three or four times as much. Put it into a 
large marble or porcelain mortar, and pour ou it a 
pint of clear soft water cold. Press the hag in 
every direction, and pound and rub it about with a 
pestle, as much as can be done without tearing it, 
and when the water is loaded with colour, pour it 
off! Repeat this process till the water comes off 
but slightly tinged, for which about five pints will 
1x3 sufiicient. Ileat all the liquor in an earthen or 
silver Vessel, till it is near 1)oiling, and tlien pour 
Lt into a large basin, into which a troy ounce of 
riium, dissolved in a pint of boiling soft water, has 
hoen previously put: stir the mixture togellier, and 
wKile BUrring, poor in gently about 1^ oz. of a aa- 



turated solution of suVcarbonate of potash, let II 
stand till cold, to settle; pour off the clear yellow 
liquor ; add to the precipitate a quart of boiling 
soft water, stirring it well; and when cold, sepa- 
rate by filtration the lake, whicii sliould weigh half 
an ounce. Fresh madder root is superior to the 
dry. 

To give varioits tones to lake. 
A beautiful tone of violet, red, and even of pur- 
ple red, may be communicated to the colouring 
part of cochineal, by adding to the coloured bath a 
solution of tin in nitro-muriatic acid. The eftect 
will be greater, if, instead of this solution, one of 
oxygenated muriate of tin be employed. 

.Another. — The addition of arseniate of potash 
(neutral arsenical salt), gives shades which would 
be sought for in vain with sulphate of alumine 
(alum). 

To make a carminated lake by extracting tJie co- 
louring part from scarlet cloth. 
To prepare a carminated lake without employ- 
ing cochineal in a direct manner, by extracting the 
colouring matter from any substance impregnated 
witli it, such as the shearings of scarlet cloth. 

Put into a kettle 1 pound of fine wood ashes, 
with 40 pounds of water, and subject the water to 
ebullition for a quarter of an hour: then filter the 
solution through a piece of linen cloth till the li- 
qaor passes througli clear. 

Place it on the fire ; and having brought it to a 
state of ebullition, add 2 lbs. of the shearings op 
shreds of scarlet cloth, dyed witli cochineal, 
which must be boiled till they become white ; 
then filter the liquor again, and press the shi-eda 
to squeeze out all the colouring part. 

Put the filtered liquor into a clean kettle, and 
place it over the fire. When it boils, pour in a 
solution of 10 or VI ounces of alum in '2 pounds 
of filtered spring water. Stir the whole with a 
wooden spatula, till the froth that is formed is 
dissipated; and having mixed with it 2 lbs. of a 
strong decoction of Brazil wood, pour it upon a 
filter. Afterwards wash the sediment with spring 
water, and remove the cloth filter charged witn 
it, to plaster dryers, or to a bed of dry bricks. 
The result of this operation will be a beautiful lake, 
but it has not the soft velvety a\)pearance of that 
obtained by the first method. Besides, the colour- 
ing part of the Brazil wood which unites to that of 
the cocliineal in the shreds of scarlet cloth, lessens 
in a relative pi'oportion the unalterability of the 
colouring part of the cochineal. For this reason 
purified potash ought to be substituted for the woo<.l 
.ishes. 

To mal'e a red lake. 
Dissolve 1 lb. of the best pearl ashes in two 
quarts of water, and filter the liquor through pa- 
per; next add two more quarts of water aud a pound 
of clean scarlet shreds, boil them in a pewter boil- 
er till the shreds have lost their scai-let colour; 
take out the shreds and press them, and put the 
coloured water yielded by them to the other : la 
the same solution boil another pound of the shrech, 
proceeding in the same manner; and likewise a 
a third and fourth pound. . AVhilst this is doing, 
dissolve a pound and a half of cuttle-fish bone in a 
pound of strong aijua fortis in a glass receiver; add 
more of the bone if it appear to produce any ebulli- 
tion in the aqua fortis; and pour this strained solu- 
tion gradually into the other; but if any ebullition 
be occasioned, more of the cuttle-fish bone mu^ 
be dissolved as before, and added till no ebullition 
appears in the mixture. The crimson sediment 
deposited by this liquor is the lake : pour off the 
water; and stir the lake in two gallons of hard 
spring water, and mix tlie sediment in two gallon^ 
of fresh water; let this method he repeated four qy 



46 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



five times. If no hard water can be procured, or 
the lake appears too puqile, half an ounce of alum 
should be added to each (juantity of water before 
it be used. Havin" thus sufficiently freed the lat- 
ter from the salts, drain off the water Uirough a fil- 
ter, covered with a worn linen cloth. When it has 
been drained to a ])roper dryness, let it he dropped 
tlirough a proper funnel on clean hoards, and the 
drops will become small cones or pyramids, in 
whicli form the lake must be dried, and the pre- 
paration is completed. 

Another met/wd. — Boil two ounces of cochineal 
in a pint of water, filter the solution tlirough pa- 
per, and add two ounces of pearl-ashes, dissolved 
in half a pint of warm water, and filtered through 
paper. Make a solution of cuttle-bone as in the for- 
mer process; and to a pint of it add two ounces of 
alum dissolved in half a pint of water. Put this 
mixture gradually to the cochineal and pearl-ashes, 
aslong as any ebuUitionarises, and proceed as above. 

A beautiful lake may be prepared from Brazil 
■wood, by boiling three pounds of it for an hour in 
a solution of three pounds of common salt in three 
gallons of water, and filtering the hot fluid through 
paper; add to this a solution of five pounds of alum 
in three gallons of water. Dissolve three pounds 
of the best pearl-ashes in a gallon and ahalf of wa- 
ter, and purify it by filtering; put this gradually to 
the other, till the whole of the colour appear to be 
precipitated, and the fluid be left clear and colour- 
less. But if any appearance of purple be seen, add 
a fresh quantity of the solution of alum by degrees, 
till a scarlet hue be produced. Then pursue the 
directions given in the first process with regard to 
the sediment. If half a pound of seed lac be add- 
ed to the solution of pearl ashes, and dissolved in 
it before its purification by the filter, and two 
pounds of the wood, and a proportional quantity of 
common salt and water be used in the coloured so- 
lution, a lake will be produced that will stand well 
in oil or water, but it is not so transparent in oil 'as 
without the seed lac. The lake with Brazil wood 
may be also made by adding half an ounce of an- 
natto to each pound of the wood; but the annatto 
must be dissolved in the solution of pearl-ashes. 

After the operation, the dryers of plaster, or the 
bricks, which have extracted the moisture from the 
precipitate, are exposed to the sun, that they may 
Le fitted for anotlier operation. 

To make Prussian blue. 

Previous to the making of this substance, an al- 
kali must be prepared as follows: viz. — Fixed al- 
kali must be burnt in ox's blood, or with horn 
sliavings, or any other animal matter. The salt is 
now to be washed out. It is of an amber colour, 
and has the scent of peach blossoms. 

A solution of martial vitriol, and another of 
alum, are put together in a large glass, and the al- 
kaline ley poured upon tliem. A greenish preci- 
pitate is thrown down. The liquor is filtered in 
order to get the precipitate by itself, which is col- 
lected, and put into a glass cup. Upon pouring a 
little marine acid on this precipitate, it immediate- 
ly acquires a fine blue colour. This part of the 
process is called the brightening. 

Prussian blue maybe made without alum, in the 
following manner:— Pour a little of the alkaline 
ley into a glass, drop in an acid till no farther ef- 
fervescence ensues. Let a little of the solution of 
martial vitriol be poured into the ley, and a fine 
Prussian blue is foi-med that needs no brightening. 

The common stone blues are Prussian blue, pre- 
cipitated on large quantities of clay. 

Another method. — A quantity of horns and hoofs 
are to be mixed with an equal weight of clippings 
of leather, and the whole submitted to distillation 
in a large iron retort fixed in a revcrberatorj- fui-- 



nace; the oil and impure ammonia, resulting (hjia 
this process, are collected in a receiver, and the 
distillation is carried on at a high heat, till no fluid 
orVajiour of any kind come over — the oil and al- 
kali are disposed of to different manufacturei-s, and 
the black spongy coal remaining in the retort is Iha 
only part made use of in the preparation of the 
Prussian blue. 

Ten pounds of this coal, and 30 pounds of com- 
mon pptash, are reduced together to a coarse pow- 
der, and heated to redness in an iron pot; by de- 
grees the mass is brought into a state of semi-fu- 
sion, in which it is suffered to continue 12 hours, 
when tlie matter gives out a strong odour of sul- 
phur; it is then taken out red hot, and thrown into 
a boiler of water, where it undergoes ebullition 
for about half an hour. The clear liquor is sepa- 
rated by filtration, and the residue is boiled ia 
fresh parcels of water, till all the saline matter is 
extracted. 'I'hese difturent lixivia are then mixed 
together. Four lbs. of alum, and one and a half of 
sulphate of iron, are dissolved in warm water, and 
this solution is added to the former; a copious 
whitish precipitate is immediately deposited, 
which being collected and washed, acquires, by 
exposure to the air, a beautiful blue colour. 

Another. — Boil G pounds of clippings of leather, 
6 pounds of hoofs and horns, and 10 pounds of 
common potash, together in an iron pot to dry- 
ness; mix the residue with two pounds of crude 
tartar, and, by means of a strong fire, bring it into 
fusion. The lixiviation is conducted in the usual 
way, and a solution of 5 pouudsof sulphate of iron, 
and 15 of alum being added, a precipitate takes 
place, whicli is the Prussian blue. 

Another. — This colour is made in the following 
manner: two parts of purified potass are most inti- 
mately blended with three parts of dried finely 
pulverized bullock's blood. 

The mass is first calcined in a covered crucible, 
on a moderate fire, until no smoke or flame ap- 
pears; and it is after this brought to a complete yet 
moderate ignition: oi', equal parts of potass and 
finely-powdered coals, prepared frombones, horns, 
claws, &c. are mingled and heated in a covered 
crucible to a moderate redness. This done, either 
of these two calcined masses is, after cooling, lixi- 
viated with boiling water, and the lixivium filtered. 
Now make a solution of one part of green vitriol 
and two parts of alum; and add to it, while yet 
hot, the above lixivium, little by little; and sepa- 
rate the greenish-blue pi-ecipitate, which then 
forms, by means of a filter. If, afterwards, a slight 
quantity of diluted muriatic acid is aifused upon 
this precipitate, it assumes a beautiful dark blue 
colour. The operation is terminated by edidco- 
rating and drying the pigment thus prepared. 
To prepare a ntperb liquid bhie. 

Put into a small matrass or common phial an 
ounce of fine prussiate of iron (Prussian blue) re- 
duced to powder, and pom- oyer it from 1 J oz. to 
2 oz. of concentrated muriatic acid. The mix- 
ture produces an effervescence, and the prussiate 
soon assmnes the consistence of thin paste. Leave 
it in this state for 24 hours; tlien dilute it with 8 
or 9 ounces of water, and preserve the colotu" thus 
diluted in a bottle well stopped. 

The intensity of this colour may be lessened, if 
necessary, by new doses of water. If the whole of 
this mixture be poured into a quart of water; it 
will still exhibit a colour sufficiently dark for 
washing prints. 

This colour, charged with its mordant, requires 
the use of gum-water, made of gum tragacanth. 
Mucilage ot gum ai-abic does not possess sufficient 
consistence. 

This colour, applied with gura-water, and co» 



ARTISTS' OIL COLOURS. 



47 



vered. when dtr, with copal varnish, would form 
v&iy beautiful foil. 

To make blue vevdller. 

Into 100 pounds of whiting, pour the copper- 
water, and stir them together eveiy day for some 
hours, till the water grows pale; then pour that 
awaj', set it by for other use, and pour on more of 
the green water, and so till the verditer be made; 
which, being taken out, is laid on large pieces of 
chalk in the sun, till it be dry and fit for market. 

Jlnothev method. — Fully saturate the liquor 
which is used in parting with silver, whicli is pre- 
cipitated by adding very pure copper. This ni- 
trous solution of copper must he properly diluted 
with very pure water; — distilled is the best; and 
the copper precipitated on chalk properly pre- 
pared. The colour and chalk must be well mixed 
together and properly dried. 

Another. — To a solution of nitrate of copper, 
add lime or lime-water, as long as any green pre- 
cipitate falls down. Filter the solution, and dry 
the ])recipitate, which must be ground, and kept 
cjuite free from dust. The green colour will, by 
tJiis time, be converted into a beautiful blue. 
To make blue. 

A diluted solution of sulpliale of indigo. 
To make pink. 

Cochineal boiled with supertartrate of potash 
and sulphate alumine, or a decoction of Brazil 
wood with sulphate alumine; the colour may be 
varied by the addition of carbonate potash. 
To make green. 

The acetic copper (verdige) dissolved in acetous 
acid, forms an elegant green. 

To make purple. 

A decoction of Brazil wood and logwood af- 
fords, with carbonate of potash, a permanent 
purple. 

To make orange lake. 

Boil 4 ounces of the best annatto and 1 pound of 
pearl ashes, half an hour, in a gallon of water, and 
strain the solution through paper. Mix gradually 
with this U lb. of alum, in another gallon of wa- 
ter, desisting when no ebullition attends the com- 
mixture. Treat the sediment in the manner al- 
ready directed for otlier liinds of lake, and dry it 
in square bits or lozenges. 

To make a yellow lake. 

Take a pound of turmeric root, in fine powder, 
.S pints of water, and an ounce of salt of tartar; 
put all into a glazed earthen vessel, and boil tliem 
together over a clear gentle fire, till the water ap- 
pears higldy impregnated and stains a paper to a 
beautiful yellow. Filter this liquor, and gradually 
add to it a strong solution of roche alum, in water, 
till the yellow matter is all curdled and precipi- 
tated. After tliis, pour the whole into a filter of 
paper, and tlie water will run oft', and leave the 
yellow matter behind. Wash it with fresli water, 
till the water comes off insipid, and then is obtain- 
ed the beautiful yellow called lacque of turmeric. 

In this manner make a lake of any of tiie sub- 
stances that are of a strong texture, as madder, log- 
wood, kc. but it will not succeed in the more ten- 
der species, as the fiowers of roses, violets, kc. as 
it destroys the nice arrangement of parts in those 
subjects, on which the colour depends. 
To make another yelloxu lake. 

Make a ley of potashes and lime sufficiently 
strong; in this boil, gently, fresh broom-flowers, 
till tliey are white; then take out the flowers, and 
put the ley to boil in earthen vessels over the fire; 
add as much alum as the liquor will dissolve: then 
empty this ley into a vessel of clean water, and it 
will give a yellow colour at the bottom. Settle, 
and decant off the clear liquor. Wash tl^s pow- 
der, which is found at the hoUom, with more wa- 



ter, till all the salts of the ley are washed off; then 
separate the yellow matter, and diy it in the 
shade. 

To make a yellow. 

Gum guttse and terra merita give very beautiful 
yellows, and readily communicate their colour to 
copal varnish, made with turpentine. Aloes give 
a varied and orange tint. 

Lemon yellow. 

A beautiful lemon yellow may be formed by fol- 
lowing the prescription of the old painters, who 
mixed together the oxides of arsenic, (realgar and 
orpiment). But these colours, whicli may be imi- 
tated in another manner, have the disadvantage of 
being of a poisonous quality. It will, therefore, 
be better to substitute in their room, Dutch pink 
of Troyes and Naples yellow. This composition 
is proper for distemper and for varnish. When 
ground, and mixed with the varnishes indicated for 
the preceding colour, the result will be a bright 
solid colour, without smell, if an alcoholic varnish 
be applied for the last stratum. 

To make JVaples yellow. 

There are two processes given for making this 
colour. 1st. One pound of antimony, 1^ pound of 
lead, 1 oz. of alum, and 1 oz. of common salt. 

2d. I3OZ. of pure ceruse, 2 oz. of diaphoretic 
antimony, ^ oz. of calcined alum, and 1 oz. of 
pure sal-ammoniac. The ingredients are to be well 
mixed together, and calcined in a moderate heat 
for three hours, in a covered crucible, till it be- 
comes barely red hot, when the mass will become 
of a beautiful yellow colour. AVith a larger por- 
tion of calx of antimony and sal ammoniac, the yel- 
low verges towards gold colour. 

Glass may be tinged yellow with the above pre- 
paration. 

To make a patent yellmv. 

It is prepared by triturating minium or red ox- 
ide of lead and common salt together, and then 
exposing them in a crucible to a gentle heat. In 
tliis process, the salt is decomposed, and the acid 
unites with the oxide of lead, and forms the pa- 
tent yellow. The alkaline base of the salt remains 
in the compound, which is to be carefully washed 
and crystallized. 

Muriate of lead tinges vitreous matters of a yel- 
low colour. Hence ilie beautiful glazing given to 
Queen's ware. It is composed of SO pounds of mu- 
riate of lead, and 20 pounds of flints ground to- 
gether very fine^ and mixed with water, till the 
whole becomes as thick as cream. The vessels to 
be glazed are dipped in the glaze, and suflered to 
dry, when they are exposed to a sufficient degree 
of heat to vitrify the surface. 

To make Chinese yellow. 

The acacia, an Egj'plian thorn, is a species of 
mimosa, from which the Chinese make that yel- 
low whicli bears washing in tlieir silks and stuffs, 
and appears with so much elegance in their paint- 
ing on paper. The flowers are gathered before 
they are fully opened, and put into an earthen ves- 
sel over a gentle heat, being stirred continually 
until they are nearly dry, and of a yellow colour: 
then to half a pound of the flowers, a sufficient 
quantity of rain-water is added, to hold the flowers 
incorporated together. It is then to be boiled un- 
til it becomes tliick, when it must be strained. To 
the liquor is added, half an ounce of common alum, 
and one ounce of calcined oyster-shells, reduced to 
a fine powder. All these are mixed together into a 
mass. An addition of a proportion of the ripe seeds 
to the flowers, renders the colours somewhat 
deeper. For making the deepest yellow, add a 
small quantity of Brazil wood. 

To make a pearl white. 

Four some distilled water into a solution of ni* 



4S 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



trate of bismntli, ns long ns precipitation takes 
place; filter the solution, and wasli the precipitate 
with distilled water as it lies on llie tiller. When 
jiroperly dried, by a gentle heat, this powder is 
what is generally termed pearl wliite. 
To make a greeii colour. 
Mix a solution of common salt and blue vitriol 
Ln water, by ])ultirig oo[)per plates therein, and a 
green precipitate will be gradually formed. 
To make Sc/ieele^s green. 
Dissolve 2 pouiuls of l)lue vitriol in 6 pounds of 
water, in a copper vessel; and, in another vessel, 
dissolve a pounds of dry wliite potash, an<l ] 1 
ouncesof white arsenic, in '2 pounds of water. When 
tlie solutions are perfect, ])our the arsenical ley into 
lJ»e other gradually, and about 1 poinid G ouncesof 
good green precipitate will be obtained. 
Bninsiuick green. 

This is obtained from the solution of a precipi- 
tate of copper in tartar and water, wliich, by eva- 
poration, yields a transparent cupreous tartar, 
which is similar to tlie superfine Brunswick green. 
Jfeju green colour. 

Dissolve in a small (luanlily of hot water, fi parts 
of sulphate of copper; in another |)art, boil G i)arts 
of oxide of arsenic witli 8 parts of potash, until it 
tlirows out no more carbonic aeiil; mix by degrees, 
lliis hot solution with the iirst, agitating continu- 
ally until the effervescence has entirely ceased; 
tliese then form a precipitate of a dirty greenisli 
yellow, very abundant; add to it about three parts 
of acetic acid, or such a (juantity that there may be 
a slight excess percei)lii)le lo the smell after the 
mixtiu'e;by degrees the precipitate diminishes the 
hulk, and in a few hours there deposes spontane- 
ously at the bottom of the lifpior, entirely disco- 
loured, a powder of a contexture slightly crystal- 
line, and of a vei-y beautiful green; afterwards the 
floating liquor is separated. 

This process has been i-epeated on a large scale 
by using arsenic potass which was prejiared with 8 
parts oxide of arsenic in place of G. The liquors 
Were concentrated; some hours after the mixture 
there was foi-med at the surface a pellicle of a 
superb green colour; the whole was exposed to 
lieat, and a heavy jiowder )>recipitated which was 
washed, to free it from a great excess of arsenic. 
The green thus obtained was magnilique. — Annuls 
de CIdmie, Sefit. 18'22. 

7 'o improve green paint. 

Take 14 ounces of crude poUish, 14 drachms of 
cmde wliite arsenic. 

Uoil thein in '2 gallons of soft water, until quite 
dissolved; then put the liquoi' into a cast iron ves- 
sel lo coat and settle; draw off the liquor clean 
from the sediment, and ])Ut it into a vessel that 
will hold SOU gallons; add to it six gallons of clean 
soft water, cold; take one pound of lioman vitriol, 
and boil it in two gallonsof soft water till dissolved; 
l)nttiDg the solution into an open vessel till quite 
cold; then add it gradually to the aforesaid solu- 
tion of fixed alkali, stirring it well all the time, and 
it will produce a. genuine green oxiile, with which 
proceed in the usual way of mineral green. It is 
essential in this preparation to make the mineral 
gi-een witliout using caustic alkali Avhich is the 
general way of manui'acturing it fur this puiiiose; 
i)eeause the caustic alkali acts powerfully on the 
vegetable quality of linseed oil used in this opera- 
tion, and renders it mucilaginous. 

To prepare the precijiitateof copper to mix with 
tlie aforesaid oxiile, take one pound of Roman 
vitriol, and boil it till dissolved in two gallons of 
Soft water; at the same lime dissolve in another 
vessel half a [>ound of the first soft American pearl- 
nsh; put liie solution of vitriol boiling hot, into a 
Vessel that will hold 10 or 1'2 gallons; then add to 
I gradually Uj*i solution of pearl-ash, boiling hoi; 



to be Avell stiired all the time. On mixing the s<v 
lution together, it will cause a strong effervescence, 
if the pearl-ash is good, it will be enough to pre- 
ci])itate the vitriol, which will be known by the 
effervescence immediately subsiding, and thepreci- 
jiitate falling to the bottom of the vessel and thereby 
liroducing a fine green colour: when settled, draw 
off' the clear liquo'r, then put it into bags, made of 
canvas, to filter, and when well diained Lay it on 
chalk-stones, lo diaw a further quantity from it ; 
then put it into a stove to dry. 

To mix tlie mineral substances in linseed oiL 
Take I lb. of the genuine mineral green, pre- 
pared and well powdered, 1 lb. of the precipitate 
of' copper, H lb. of refiners' blue vei-diter, 3 lbs. 
of white lead, dry powdered, 3 ounces of sugar of 
lead, powdered fine. 

Mix the whole of these ingi-edients in linseed 
oil, and grind them in a levigating mill, passing it 
through until (|uite fine; it will thereby produce a 
bright mineral ])ea green ])aint, preserve a blue 
tint, and keep any length of time, in any climate, 
without injury, by putting oil or water over it. 

To use this colour for house or ship painting: 
lake 1 lb. of the green colour jjaint, with 1 gill of 
j);de boiled oil ; mix them well together, and this will 
l>roduce a strong pea-green paint: the tint may be 
variud at \)leasure, by adding a further quantity of 
while lead, ground in linseed oil. This colour will 
stand the weather, and resist salt water; it may 
also be used for flatting rooms, by adding tliree 
pounds of while lead, gi-ound in half linseed oil, 
and half turpentine, to one pound of the green; 
then lo be mixed up in tuiiientine spirits, lit for 
use. It may also be used for painting Venetian 
window blinds, by adding to 1 lb. of the green paint 
ten ounces of wiiile lead, ground in tiu'penline; 
then lo be mixed up with turpentine varnish for 
use. In all the aforesaid preparsitions it will re- 
lain a blue tint, which is very desirable. When 
used for blinds, a small quantilj' of Dutch pink mav 
be put to the white lead if the coloui- is required 
of a yellow cast. — lie/jertori/, 1S14. 
.■In excellent azure. 
Take 2 oz. of (juicksilver; sulphur, and ammo- 
niac salt, cf each half oz. Grind all together, and 
put the contents to digest in a matrass over a slow 
heal: increase the fire a litlle, and when an azure 
fume arises, take the matrass troni the fire. When 
cool, these will make as beautiful an azure as ulti-a 
marine. 

To make a fine hro~on pink, 
Kruise, and boil in 3 quarts of water, 4 oz. of 
French berries, lo the reduction of one half. Strain 
them through a cloth, and put in this juice a di»- 
cretional quantity of whiting, pounded and sifted 
into a subtle powder, so as lo make a thick paste, 
w hich put into small tied bags, and set it to tlry on 
tiles. 

^Vhen dry, use it with gum; and to render it 
finer, put in some gamboge. 

To iinitatejiesh coloiir. 
Mix a little white and yellow together; then add 
a little more red than yellow. These form an cs- 
ccllent imitation of the complexion. 
A. -ivltite for painters 7v]dch may be preseit'ed fuT' 
ever. 
Put into a pan 3 quarts of linseed oil, with nn 
equal (luantity of brandy, and 4 quails of the best 
double distilled Vinegar, 3 dozen of whole ne%v-lai<l 
eggs, 4 lbs. of mutton suet, chopped small: cover 
all with a le.ad plate, and lute it well. Lay Una 
])an in the cellar for three weeks, then take skil- 
fully the white off", and dry it. The ^dose of this 
composition is C ounces of white to 1 of bisrriuili. 
To clean pictures. 
Take the picture out of the frame; lay a clean 
towel oa Jt, for 10 or 14 days. Keep continually 



WATER COLOURS. 



49 



■wetting 5t, uniil it has drawn out all the filthiness 
from the picture: pass some linseed oil over it, 
■which has been a long time seasoned iu the sun to 
pui-ify it, and the picture will become as lively on 
Us surface as new. 

Another method. — Put into 2 quarts of the oldest 
ley, a quarter of a pound of Genoa soap, rasped 
very fine, with about a pint of spirit of wine, and 
boil all together. Then strain it through a clolii, 
iind let it cool. With a brusii dipped in the com- 
position rub the picture all over, and let it dr}'^ 
repeat tliis process, and let it dry again. Then 
dip a little cotton in oil of luit, and pass it over its 
surface. When perfectly dry, rub it well over 
with a warm cloth, and it will appear of a beauti- 
ful freslmess. 

Compound for receiving the colours used iu encaus- 
tic /laiitiing. 

Dissolve 9 oz. of gum arabic in 1 pint of water; 
add 14 oz. of finely powdered mastic, and 10 oz. 
of white wax, cut in small pieces; and, v hilst hot, 
add by degrees 2 pints of cold spring water: then 
sti'ain the composition. 

Another method. — Mix 24 ounces oi mastic with 
gum water, leaving out the wax; and when sulli- 
cienlly beaten and dissolved over the fire, add, by 
degrees, 1^ pints of cold water, and strain. 

Or, dissolve 9 ounces of gum arabic iu 1^ pints 
of water, then add 1 pound of white wax Boil 
tl>em over a slow fire, pour them into a cold ves- 
.sel, and beat it well together. When this is mix- 
ed with the colours, it will require more water 
tlian the others. Tliis is used in painting, the co- 
lours being mixed with these compositions as wij,h 
oil, adding water if necessary. When the paint- 
ing is finished, melt some wliite wax, and with a 
hard brush varnish the painting, and when cold, 
rub it to make it entirely smooth. 

Grecian method of painting on ivax. 

Takfe an ounce of white wax, and one ounce of 
gum mastic, in drops, made into powder; put the 
wax into a glazed pan, over a slow fire, and when 
jnelted add the mastic; then stir the same until 
they are both incorponited. Next throw the paste 
into water, and when hard take it out, wipe it dry, 
and beat it in a mortar; when dry pound it in a 
iinen cloth, till it is reduced to a fine powder. 
Make some strong gum water, and when painting 
ti»ke a little of the powder, some colour, and mix 
them all with the gum water. Light colours re- 
quire but a small quant-ly of the powder, but more 
imist be put in proportion to tlie darkness of the 
colours, and to black there should be almost as 
jnuch of the powder as of colour. 

Having mixed the colours, paint with water, as 
is practised in painting with water colours, a 
ground en the wood being first painted, of some 
])roper colour, prepared as described for the pic- 
ture. When tlie painting is quite dry, with a hard 
brush, passing it one way, \arnisli it with white 
•wax, which is melted over a slow fire till the pic- 
ture is varnished. Take ciu-e the wax does not 
boil. Afterwards hold the picture before a fir-e, 
iiejir enough to melt the wax, but not to run; and 
■when the varnish is entirely cold and liard, rub it 
gently with a linen eloth. Should the varnish blis- 
ter, warm the picture again very slowly, uud tlie 
bubbles will subside. 



WATER COLOURS USED IN DRAWING. 

Imlflements. 

Those necessary for drawing are a d:fiwing- 

hoiwd, a ruler, compasses, charcoal, bhick Iwid 

}>cncils, penknife, portu-crayons, black, while, 

iM\il red clialks, Indian ink, crow-quill pens, ca- 



U 



mel's hair pencils, boxes of colours, paper of se- 
veral sorts, and portfolios. 

Draiving-boards are used to fix the paper so 
that it may not sliift, and also to strain it, to pre 
vent the colours when laid wet on the paper from 
causing it to swell, so as to become uneven. The 
simplest sort is made of a deal board framed, with 
a strong piece across each end to prevent warping. 
U])on tJiis the paper may be fixed with pins, wa- 
fers, or sealing-wax, or it may be strained witli 
paste or glue. 

Drawing compasses are instruments of brass and 
steel, for diviiling lines, and laying down measvu-es 
from scales, &;c.; a steel pen is also useful for 
drawing lines, cleaner than tliey can be done by a 
common pen. 

Black-lead pencils are either hard or soft, tlie 
best are without any grit, not too soft, and cut easily 
witJiout breaking; those that are gritty and brittle 
will not answer so well. 

Indian ink. — The best is stamped with Chinese 
characters, breaks with a glossy fracture, and feels 
smooth wlien rubbed on the shell or plate. The 
inferior kind, made in this counti^, may be easily 
known by its grittiness. 

JIair pencils are made of camel's-hair; if they 
come to a point, when moistened, without split- 
ting, they are good. 

Dra-aing paper. — Th.at which is made without 
any wire marks, and called wove paper, is the 
best; it is made of various sizes and thicknesses. 
^Middle tint paper is of a brownish or of a grey co- 
lour, and is used for drawing upon with black and 
wliite chalk. 

Cro-ry/jMjs are used for fining tlie outline with 
ink after it has been determined by the pencil. 
To drav> in -Mater colours. 

This is an art capable of affording tlic highest 
delight; since no mode of representation can dis- 
play the appearances of Nature with greater truth: 
it is an art which has of late been carried to un- 
precedented success; and may be said, at present, 
to be the most perfect species of painting whicli is 
in practice. To this the facility of its materials 
mainly contributes. — It is not attended with the 
embarrassments to which oil painting is liable, but 
proceeds, l)y ready and uninterrupted progress, to 
its completion. 

The general or simple colours, and the various 
species of each fit for painting in water colours, are 
as follow: — • 

JFhiies. — Ceruse, constant white, wiiite lead, 
Spanish white, flake white, spoflium. 

Jilacks. — Burnt cherry stones, ivory black, 
Keating's black, lamp black. 

Greens. — Green bice, green verditer, grass 
green, sap green, verdigris distilled. 

Blues. — Sanders blue, terre blue, blue verditer, 
indigo, litmus, smelt, Prussian blue, light ditto, 
ultramarine, ultramarine ashes, blue bice. 

Bro-wns. — Spanish brown, Spanish liquorice, 
umber, bistre, burnt terra de Sienna, unburnt 
ditto. 

Iteds. — Native cinnabar, burnt ochre, Indian 
red, red lead, minium, lake, vermilion, carmine, 
reJ ink, Indian lake. 

Felloivs. — English ochre, gall stone, gamboge, 
masticot, ochre de luce, orpiment, Roman ochre, 
Dutch pink, saflron M'ater, king's yellow, gold yel- 
low, Fj-ench berries. 

To prepare ivater colours. — White, 

Us'.^ white lead, and clarify it w ith wliite wine 
vinegar; after the wliite is settled, pour off tlie 
vinegar, and wash it with water, thus: Put the 
powder into a glass of water, stir it, and presently 
pour the water oil", while it is wliite, into another 
glass; when it is settled, pour oif the water, and 

E 



60 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



an excellent white will be obtained; to winch add 
as much gfum as is necessary to give it a gloss. 

Another. — Take a pound of the shreddings of 
glove leather, and steep tliem in water; boil them 
with twelve quarts of water, till it wastes to two; 
strain it through a linen cloth, into a well glazed 
earthen pan; tliis is called glue or size, and proper 
to use with colours in candle liglit pieces; to know 
if this is strong enough, try if it is stitf and firm 
under the hand. 

The glue being melted, reduce some white chalk 
to a powder, and while it is hot add such a quan- 
tity of the chalk as will bring it to the consistency 
of a paste, letting it steep for a quarter of an hour; 
stir it with a brush made of hog's bristles. 

In order to make this white brighter, add more 
glue. Be careful to observe that eveiy layer is 
diy before putting on another. If tlie artist works 
upon wood, he must put on a dozen; but six or 
seven are sufficient if tlie paper is thick. After- 
wai'ds dip a soft brush in some water, drain it witii 
the fingers; rub the work with it in order to make 
It smooth. When the brush is full of white, wash 
it again; and also change the water when it is too 
•white. Or use a wet linen rag instead of a brush. 
Tellows. 

In some objects there may frequently be seen a 
shining, like that of gold, through colours of red, 
blue, or green, such as some sorts of flies or bee- 
tles, and the cantharides. This may be well imi- 
tated by laying some leaf-gold on the shaded side 
of the drawing, giving a little to the light side. To 
lay on the gold-leaf, press it smooth and close 
■with cotton, after liaving washed it with strong 
■water; but take care that inlaying on the gum, the 
limits are not exceeded through which the gold is 
to appear. In this case, the gold is only to shine 
through the transparent colour, which is to be laid 
over it. 

As leaf-gold will not receive water-colours i-e- 
gularly, procure some water of ox-gall, and with 
this liquor sti-oke over the gold leat, by which it 
will receive any colour the artist is desirous of lay- 
ing over it. 

In some manuscripts there may be seen gold 
lettei^, which seem to rise above the sm'face of the 
paper. The composition which raises them is 
made -of vermilion and the white of an egg, beaten 
to the consistence of an oil, and fixed to the paper 
■with gum-arabic; on this figurative letter, wash 
some gum-water, with a camel's-hair pencil; lay 
on the gold leaf close with some cotton; and when 
dry, rub it again with cotton, and burnisii it with 
a dog's tooth, wheu it will appear as if cast in 
gold. 

There is also another way of working in gold, 
■which is performed by shell gold. Cover the siia- 
dy parts with vermilion, before using this gold, 
and when it has been rectified with spirit of wine, 
lay it on; when dry burnish it as before. 

In laying on this gold, leave the lights without 
it, as it will appear to much greater advantage 
than if all the objects were covered; but provided 
the whole performance shonld be covered, the best 
■way of setting it otf is to trace over the shady parts 
■with gall-stone, or the yellow made of French ber- 
ries, heightened with minium. 

Gamboge is one of the mellowest colours nature 
\as produced; it is of so mild a temperature, that 
■when it is touched with any tiuid, it instantly dis- 
solves; it is productive of a variety of most agreea- 
ble tints, and will generally shade itself, though 
sometimes it requires help. 

Gall-stmic is a xeij ricli deep yellow, tending 
towards a brown; it is exceedingly useful in many 
cases, needs but little gumming or grinding, 
works free, but will not shade itself. 



If we cut the roots of barhernea, and put them 
into a strong lixivium of pearl-ashes and water, a 
very agreeable yellow will proceed from them. 

Another fine transparent yellow is made by 
boiling the root of a tmilbei-ry-tree, well cleansed, 
in the foregoing lixivium. 

Yello-iv ochre makes a very good pale yellow; 
and being ground with gum water proves extreme- 
ly useful. 

Another ven' agreeable yellow is made by in- 
fusing the plant celadine in water; gently press it, 
and add to the liquor some alum-water; then let it 
boil. 

To eoctract yellota from French berries. 

In a quart of the preceding lixivium, boil 2 oz. 
of French ben-ies, till the liquor is of a fine yel- 
low; strain it from the yellow beiTies, and when 
cold it is fit for use. To the berries put a pint of 
the same lixivium, and boil it till the liquor is as 
strong as gall-stones; with which shade any yel- 
lows: this boil till it comes to a brown; with the 
addition of a little ox-gall, it will serve to shade 
the gold-leaf. 

A yellow may be made by infusing saffron in 
pure water. When tiiis is steeped in rectified 
S|)irit of wine, there is nothing higher; but it is 
verj' apt to tly unless it is highly gummed. 

A good yellow, for the illumination of prints, 
may be extracted from the roots of ginger; which 
make a good green, when mixed with transparent 
verdigris. 

Tliose yellows, called English and Dutch pinks, 
are made with French berries, ground to a fine 
powder, and then boiled. 

King's yelloxo, a fine body-colour, is much used 
in heightening the ochre for gold lace, Sec. 

Orange colour is made of a mixture of vermil 
ion and gamboge, the latter most predominant. 
Jieds. 

Red-lead, or minium, is a strong heavy colour. 
The following are the directions for preparing it: 
Put four ounces in a glass, to a quart of rain water, 
and when it has been thoroughly stirred, pour ofi 
the water; by a fre<iuent repetition of this, there 
will remain at the bottom of the glass a beautiful 
red, when dry, which is to be used with gum-wa- 
ter. When the colour has been thus prepared, 
not more tlian twenty grains will i-emain out oi 
four ounces. 

Carmine affords the highest and most perfect 
crimson, and is the most beautiful of all reds, for 
with this colour and lake the shades may be made 
as strong as wanted. This colour should never be 
purchased but in day-light; for if not good, it will 
spoil the work. 

Lakes. 

Lake is a fine transparent colour, not much m- 
ferior to carmine; but in painting with carmine 
on that part of the print on which the light is sup- 
posed to strike, lay on the first tint as light as pos- 
sible, working it stronger as it grows darker, and 
touch it in the darker parts with lake. 

To make lake, prepare a lixivium, made with 
the ashes of vine-twigs, and to three pints add a 
pound of the best ground Brazil-wood; boil it till 
half the' lixivium is evaporated; strain it otf; boil 
it again with the addition of four ounces of fresh 
Brazil-wood, two ounces of cocliineal, half an 
ounce of terra merita, and a pint of water; evapo- 
rate as before; add half an ounce of burnt al-om 
(reduced to an impalpable powder), and a quarter 
of a drachm of arsenic; dissolve them in it, by 
stirring it with a stick; when settled strain it. To 
give this a body, reduce two cuttle-fish bones to a 
powder, and putting it in, let it dry leisurely. 
Grind it ina quantity of water, in which let it steep; 
strain it through a clolh, and making it into a few 



WATER COLOURS. 



51 



eaKcs, set it by for use, after dicing it on a piece 
of marble. 

If this is wanted redder, add some of the juice 
of a lemon ; and to make it deeper, add oil of 
tartar. 

Another lake. 

Boil the shreds of superfine scarlet cloth in a ley 
made of the ashes of burnt tartar; when sufficient- 
ly boiled, add some cochineal, powdered mastic, 
and alum; boil this again, and strain it through a 
bag several times. The first time, the bag must 
be strained from top to bottom; and the remaining 
gross matter being taken out, let the bag be well 
■washed; after this strain the liquor through the 
bag again, when a paste will remain on the sides, 
which divide into small cakes, for use. 

Another. — Steep four ounces of the best Brazil- 
wood in a pint and a half of the finest distilled 
vinegar, for three weeks at least, though the longer 
it remains the better it is; seethe the whole in bal- 
neum 7)iarigs, till it boils up three or four times; 
let it settle for a day or two; put it to an ounce of 
powdered alum, and into a clean pan with the li- 
quor; let it remain for twenty-four liours; heat the 
composition, and stir it till it is cold; when it has 
stood about twelve hours, strain it, and add two 
cuttle-fish bones, prepared as before. 
Crimsoji. 

In twelve ounces of pale stale beer, boil one 
ounce of ground Brazil-wood, till the colour is as 
strong as desired; strain it through a linen cloth, 
and bottle it up for use. If wanted to bring this 
colour to a body, take some dried ox-blood, re- 
duced to a powder, and mix it with the colour. 

A fine crimson may be extracted from the berry- 
bearing spinach, which, being ])ressed, affords a 
very agreeable juice; to this add a fourth part of 
alum; boil it, and when cold it is fit for use. 

Or a very beautiful red may be extracted from 
the red beet root, baked with a little strong vine- 
gar and alum; when cold it is fit for use. 

Another. — Put twenty or more grains of bruised 
cochineal into a gallipot, with as many drops of 
the ley of tartar as will make it give forth its co- 
lour; add to this mixture about half a spoonful of 
water, or more, and a very agreeable purple will 
be obtained. Reduce some alum to a very fine 
, powder, put it to the purple liquor, and a beautiful 
crimson will 'appear; strain it through a fine cloth: 
use it as soon as possible; for though this is a co- 
lour which, if soon used, looks extremely well, 
yet by long standing it is subject to decay. 

Indian lake is far superior to any other of the 
kind, for the deep shades of red of all kinds, and 
works as free as gamboge. The best is brought 
from China m pots, and has the appearance of 
raspberry-jam, but very bitter to the taste: it re- 
quires no gum. 

Purple. 

Take eight ounces of logwood, a pint of rain 
water, and an ounce of alum; infuse it well over a 
slow fire, in a well glazed pan or pipkin, for about 
24 hours; add ^ ounce of gum-arabic, let ic stand 
for a week: strain it through a piece of fine cloth. 
Keep it close, or it will mould. 

Another. — A redder purple may be made by 
adding to 1 oz. of the above, four ounces of Brazil- 
wood, and a pint of stale beer; boiling it till the 
liquor is as strong as is desired. It may be made 
darker by adding more logwood. 

The richest purple is made by blending carmine 
and Pi'ussian blue, or indigo, to whatever shade is 
wanted. 

Blues. 

Ultramarine is the best and brightest blue. Pre- 
pare it by heating six ounces of the lapis lazuli till 
tt is red; oool it in strong vinegar; grind it with a 



stone and muller to an impalpable powder; then 
make a composition of bees'-wax, resin, linseed- 
oil, and turpentine, of each three ounces: incor- 
porate the whole together over a slow fire, till it 
is near boiling; pour them into a pan well glazed. 
This is called the paste of ultramarine. The lapia 
lazuli being prepared, add to it an equal quantity 
of the pastil, or paste; mix them together thorough- 
ly, and let them remain twelve hours. To extract 
the ultramarine from the paste, pour clean water 
upon it; on pressing the paste witli the hands, the 
ultramarine will come out for its reception: place 
a glass tumbler imder the hand; let it settle in 
this water till the ultramarine sinks to the bottom. 

If the colour seems foul, cleanse it thus: Dissolve 
some tartar in water; add as much of it to the ul- 
tramarine as will cover it; let it stajid twelve hours; 
■wash it in warm water, when the colour will be 
well clarified and perfectly clean. Let the ultra- 
marine be of a high colour, and well ground. 

Next to ultramarine in beauty, is Prussian bhie, 
but it does not grind kindly with water, on account 
of its oily substance. 

Jih/e bice is a colour of a veiy good body, and 
flows very agreeably in the pencil; wash itaccoi'd- 
ing to the rules laid down for ultramarine. 
Slacks. 

The proper blacks for water colours are as 
follows: 

Ivory black, which is prepared in the following 
manner: Let the ivory black be thoroughly ground, 
and there will naturally proceed from it a liquor 
of an oily substance: mix as much of it as will 
make it work freely in the pencil. It has a fine 
gloss, and is extremely serviceable in painting of 
shining objects. 

Indian ink is a very good black, and of great 
service, as it may be laid to any shade, and will 
always shade itself; on which account it is often 
used for drawings. 

Greens. 

Sap-green is a colour extremely serviceable, and 
the best green for water colours, being of a gummy 
substance, and diluting easily in water. It produces 
an endless variety of tints, and has the advantage 
of shading itself 

A sea or artificial green, is made by mixing in- 
digo and sap-green, which may be made lighter by 
adding more or less indigo; it is a very servicea- 
ble colour, easily worked, and productive of many 
tints. Tliis colour, as well as sap-green, shades 
itself. The indigo must be well ground before 
you mix it. 

Another is made with indigo and gamboge, well 
ground together : extremely useful in painting of 
trees, grass, vegetables, &c. With the addition of 
sap-green, it is very serviceable in flowers, and 
shading-in of garments. 

Bro-wns. 

Burnt and unbunit terra de Sienna, are the 
warmest browns for front grounds, dead leaves, &c. 
work very free, and are of general use. 

Bistre is also a good and serviceable colour. — 
The best sort is very bright and close: as it is a 
colour difficult to work of itself, mix a little Span- 
ish liquorice Avith it, that will mellow and take off 
its harshness. It must be well ground; and the 
higher it is gummed, the better for use. 

Spanish liquorice is productive of a great varie- 
ty of brown tints, of a very agreeable colour; it 
will not shade itself, but works as free as any gum 
colours by diluting it in fair water. 

A broivn mixture is made by incorporating sap- 
green and carmine, which is of an extraordinarily 
soft nature; it is a colour extremely serviceable m 
painting flowers in water colours. 

Anot/iei', by blending vermilion and bi:tre tho- 



52 



UNrVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



rong^hW: the bistre must be extremely well gi-oiiml 
bcfoi-e'it is incoqiorated with the vei'iiiilion, and it 
vill produce a M-ry good l)rowii. 

Directions for preparing mixed coloiivn. _ . 

.'Ink colour. — Ceruse, "Keiitini^'s black and white, 
shaded with clicn-y-stnne hlacli. 

Jimj. — Lake aiul Hake white, shaded with cav- 
iiiinc ; bistre and vermilion shaded with black. 

Changeable silk. — Red lead and niaslicot-water, 
shaded w itii sap-green and verdigris. 

Another. — Lake and yellow, shaded with lake 
and I'nissian blue. 

Cloud colour. — Light masticot, or lake and white, 
shaded with blue verditer. 

Anotlier. — Constant white and Indian ink, a little 
vermilion. 

Another. — White with a little lake and blue ver- 
diter, makes a very agreeable cloud colour, for 
that part next the horizon. 

Crimson. — Lake and white, vi'ith a little vermil- 
ion, shaded with lake and carmine. 

Flame colour. — Vermilion and oi-piment, height- 
ened with white. 

Another. — Gamboge, shaded with minitira and 
red lead. 

Flesh colour. — Ceruse, red lead, and lake, for a 
swarthy complexion, and yellow-ochre. 

Another. — Constant white and a little carmine, 
.shaded with Spanish li(iuorice, washed with car- 
mine. 

French green. — Light pink and Dutch bice, 
shaded with green pink. 

Glass grejj. — Ceruse, with a little blue of any 
kind. 

Hair colour. — Masticot, ochre, umber, ceruse, 
and chcrrv-stone black. 

J^ad colour. — Indigo and white. 

Light blue. — Blue bice, heightened with flake 
v/hite. 

Another. — Blue verditer, and white of any sort, 
Veil ground. 

light green. — Pink, smalt, and wdiite. 

Another. — Blue verditer and gamboge. 

Another. — Gamboge and verdigris. The chief 
Ijse of this gi'cen is to lay the ground colours for 
trees, iields, Sec. 

JJ,(in ta-tviiet]. — Red lead, end masticot, shaded 
with umber. 

JMurrey. — 'Lake and white lead. 

Orange. — Red lead aud,a little masticot, shaded 
with gall-stone and lake. 

Orange taivney. — Lake, liglit pink, a little mas- 
ticot, shaded witli gall-stone and lake. 

Pearl colour. — Carmine, a littlv; white, shaded 
■with lake. 

Poj!«Vyfl^5TeeR.— Green and masticot; or pink 
and & little indigo, shaded witli indigo. 

Purple. — Indigo, Spanish brown, and white j 
or blue bice, red and white lead ; or blue bice 
and lake. 

ftusset. — Cherry-stone black and white. 

Scarlet. — Red lead and lake, with or without 
vermilioti, 

Sca-greeru — Bice, pink, and white, shaded with 
pink. 

Sky CO ?«i?jr. -"-Light masticot and white, for the 
lowest and lightest parts ; second, red ink and 
wliitc; third, blue bice and white; fourth, blue bice 
alone. These are all to be softened into one ano- 
ther at the edges, so as not to appear harsh. 

Sky colour for drapery.' — Blue bice and ceruse, 
W ultramarine and while, sliaded with indigo. 

Straw cofo?cr.— JIasticot and a very little lake, 
idiaded with Dutch pink. 

Yellotv ce/oKr.— Indigo, ;Whlte, and lake< or fine 
Jjlatch bice and lake, shaded witit indigo; or lit- 



mus, smalt, and bice, tfle latter most predomi- 
nant. 

Water. — Blue and white, shaded with blue, and 
heightened with white. 

Another. — Blue verdigris, shaded with indigo, 
and heightened with wliite. 

Directions for using the colours. 

The pencils must be fast in tlie quills, not apt to 
pai't in the middle. 

Before I)eginniiig, have all tlie colours resnly 
and a palette for the conveniency of mixing tliem; 
a ])iii)er to lay under the liaiid, as well as to try thii 
colours upon ; also a large brush, called a fituji, to 
wipe off the dust from them. 

Being now prepared, proceed in the painting; 
which, if a landscape, lay on first dead colours 
freely all over the piece leaving no part unco- 
vered. 

Then proceed with the ligiiter parts, as the sky, 
sun-beams, kc: tlien the yellowish beams, with 
masticot and white; next the blneness of tlie sky, 
with blue verditer alone; for purple clouds, mix 
only lake and white, making the colours deeper 
as they go upwards from tiie horizon, except in 
tempestuous ikies. The tops of distant mountains 
must be worked so faint, that they may seem to lose 
themselves in the air. 

Bring the colours forward as the distance de- 
ci'eases; jiainting the first ground next the horizon, 
downwards, of a bluish sea-green; and as you ad- 
vance forward, of a darker green, till you come to 
the fore-ground itself; which, as it is the darkest 
part of all, with dark green, worked aQ as to give 
the appearance of shrubbery, &c. 

In painting trees, having first laid a little verdi- 
gris green for a dead coloiu*, proceed with working 
it so as to give a leafy appearance. 

Bring some of the leaves forward with masticot 
and white; for the trunk, work the brown witli sap- 
green; if oak trees are introduced, lay on some 
touches to express leaves of ivy twined about it. 

All distinct objects are to be made imperfect, as 
they ap()ear to the eye. 

h\ painting flesh, the following are the best di- 
rections for preparing the work so as afterwards 
more readily to produce tlie effects of colours seen 
in nature. 

'lake flake-white and a little lake, blend them 
together, and with that lay the ground colour ; 
then shade with red ochre, cherry-stone black, aiitl 
a little lake, mixed together, touching the lips, 
cheeks, S;c. with a tint of carmine, and heighten 
the flesh with white and a little carmine. Re- 
member never to heighten it with ])ure white, 
which will alwaj's give it a cold appearance. 

It may be recommended to the student in gene- 
ral, whatever is tlie subject of his drawing, not to 
finish any one part first, but to work up every {>ai't 
gradually alike, until he finds nothing wanting to 
con)])lete the whole. 

Wherever he lays on strong touches, he must be 
carefiiV in those places to bring up h.is work to an 
equal roundness and strength, tempering and sweet- 
ening the colours with a sharper pencil than the 
first, that no lumps or harsli edges may be left, but 
that the shadows may all lie dispersed, soft and 
smootli, and gliding gently into one another. 

The occasional roughness of the work need not 
discourage tlie artist; for it is easily softened by 
degre,cs witli other lints and shadows: observing 
only to sweeten, mellow, and heighten them ac- 
cording as the light happens to fall. 

A metliod has been lately discovered of combm 
ing the ett'ects of water colours with those of cray" 
on-painting by means of wax crayons. It is an io- 
geuious and pleasing mode of practicci 



WATER COLOtTRS. 



63 



To prevent the colours from cracking. 
Boil 2 ounces oftlie best jiikI clearest glue, with 
1 pint of clear water, and a Iialf au ouiice of the 
finest alum, till dissolved. This is a very service- 
able liquor, -with whiL-li teinper those colours, in- 
tended for skyj as it will jjreveut them from crack- 
ing. 

To make a solution of gum. 
Dissolve an ounce of while gum arabic, and half 
an ounce of double refined sugar, in a quart of 
bpring-w-ater; strain it tlirough a piece of muslin, 
tJien bottle it off for use, keeping it free from dust. 
Another method. — Take some of the whitest sort 
of gum arabic, then bruise and tie it in a piece of 
voollen cloth, steep it in spring water till dissolved, 
If too stift", which is known by the shining of the 
Colours, add more water; if too weak, more gum. 
Willi this water tem[)er most of the colours, using 
such a quantity of it, that the colours, wheu diy, 
being touched, will come otf. 

To keep flics from the -work. 
Having prepared tlie gum water, add a little co- 
loquintida, which, if the work should be exposed, 
vjll keep it from being damaged by the fiies. 
To prepare alum -water. 
Take 4 ounces of alum, and a pint of spring- 
^vater; boil it till the alum is thoroughly dissolved; 
lilter it through blotting paper, and it is fit for use. 
Before lajing on the colours, take some of this 
water hot, and with a sponge wet the back of the 
l)aper, which, if not good, must be wetted three or 
lour times, "^rhis will not only prevent the sink- 
ing of the colours, but will also keep them from 
fading, and give an additional beauty and lustre. 
Kemember that the paper must be di-ied each time 
before wetting it again. 

To make time-ivaier. 
Put some unslacked lime in a well-glazed pan ; 
caver it with pure water; let it remain so for one 
day, then strain oft" the water, and keep it for use. liy 
tlie means of this water, sap greeii may be changed 
into blue. 

To make a lixivium of pearl ashes. 
Steep half an ounce of pearl ashes in clear water 
for one day; strain off the water as clean as possi- 
ble. This infusion will prove extremely servicea- 
ble in many colours, particularly Krazil wood; to 
which it will give an additional beauty and lustre. 
'J'o restore decuijed colours. 
Take distilled rosemary water, or essence of 
rosemary, ;*.id with a, few drops temper the colours, 
wliich, however dead or faded, will recover their 
primitive brilliancy. This essence will prevent 
the bubbles which are troublesome in grinding 
wiiile and umbre. 

Li(pdd gold for vellum painting. 
Having procured som.e of the finest leaf gold, 
griad it with strong gum-water, adding more gum- 
water as is found requisite; when thoroughl}' ground 
temper it with a small (pianlity of sublimate of 
inerciu-y, binding -it in the 5,hell with a little dis- 
solved gum; spreiid it equally over the shell, and 
use it with watei' only, for gilding fans, bcc. 
Liquid silver for the same. 
The manner of making this is the same as that 
of li(piid gold, only remembering to temper it wiih 
glaire of eggs, and not water. 

Tu make glaire of eggs. 
Beat the whiles with a spoon till they rise in a 
foam; let them stand twelve hours, and they will 
be clarified into good ghdre. 

J rei^tore rusted liquid silver. 
If silver becomes rustv, cover that jiart of the 
performance with the juice of garlic, which will 
t^cover it eHcctually. 

Ground to lav silver or gold upon. 
Take the utiV ihreds of parchment, (as they are 



j far preferable to glove leather) and boil them in a 
I quart of spring water till consumed to a pint; strain 
j the size from the shreds, and put it into a well 
I glazed pan; use it before it is cold. Be careful, 
when laying on the silver or gold, that the size is 
not too moist, nor too dry, for in either case thei-e 
will be danger of impairfng the work. 
I '1 'o prevent gloss on draivings. 

I Too much gum in the composilioi'i of ink em- 
ployed in drawings is the cause of the oftensive 
gloss which arises, in different degrees, from what 
is called Indian ink. according to the caprice or 
ignorance of the inanufacluier. This evil is 
irremediable, made with such ink, without tlierisk 
of defacing their surfaces. But it may be avoided 
by the artisl composing his own ink,"by an union 
of ivory or lamp black, with a small portion ot 
I Prussian blue, or indigo, for a blue black; and the 
I same blacks united with raw or burnt umber, bis- 
j tre, Vandyke, or any other brown instead of the 
blue for a brown black. These should be incor- 
I porated by mixing them in weak gum water, (or 
I perhaps mali-w ort would answer belter), first levi- 
gating them very fine in common water, on a mar- 
ble slab. "When dried to a paste, the glutinous 
matter shouhl be, and not till tiien, we'll mixed 
with them. The proper strength may be readily 
known by a fefv trials, and that w ill be found suf- 
ficiently strong ^\hich binds the composition 
enough to prevent rubbing off by the touch. Indian 
ink drawings should be handled as little as possi- 
ble, for the slightest rubbing produces a certain 
degree of gloss, and frequent repetitions of it 
make the gloss more apparent and decided. 
To prepare luash colours for maps. For yello-w. 

Dissolve gamboge in water: or French berries 
steeped in water, the liquor sti-ained, and gum ara- 
bic added. 

For red. 

Steep Brazil dust in vinegar, with alum, 

Or, dissolve litmus in water, and add spirit of 
wine. 

Or, steep cochineal in water, Etraincd, and add 
gum. 

For blue. 

Dilute Saxon Ijiue wilh water. 

Or, to the solution of litmus add distilled vine- 
gar. 

For green. 

Dissolve distilled water in verdigi-is, and add 
gum. 

Or, dissolve s.ap green in water, and add gum. 
Litnms is rendered green by adding p. p. m. kali 
to its solulioa. 

To keep water-colours from siiddng. 

Boil 4 ounces of alum in a pint of spring water, 
till it is thoroughly dissolved; filler it through 
I brown paper, and keep it for use. 

Before laying on the colours, take a sponge, and 
wet the back of the paper wilh this w aier while it 
is hot. This will not only prevent the colours from 
sinking, but v ill likewise give them an additional 
beauty and lustre, and preserve them from fading. 
If the paper is not good it must be washed three or 
four times with this water, drying it every time. 

If the prints are to be varnisiied, wash them all 
over with white starch, before begiuding to lay on 
the colours. 

To prepare charcoal and chalks for drawing. 

Saw the finest grain charcoal into slips of the 
size wanted, and put them into a pipkin of melted 
bee's-wax; put them near a blow fire for half an 
hour, take them out, and when they are perfectlv 
cool they are fit for use. The advantages of these 
pencils are, that they can be niadc «it the mcmt 
trifiing expense, and that drawings made with \.t\i\k 
ai-e as permanent as ink. 

£3 



54 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



The above process will harden both red and 
black chalks, and make lliem permanent also. 
To make caiimnated lake fur crayons. 

The decoction winch floats over the coloured 
precipitate known by the name of carmine, beinsj 
still' liighly coloured, ttie addition of sulphate ot 
alumine, whicli is afterwards decomposed by a so- 
lution of carbonate of soda, disengages the alumine, 
and the latter, in precipitating itself, carries with 
it the colouring part of the bath. According to the 
dose prescribed lor the composition, 2 or 3 ounces 
of alum may be employed. The greater or less 
quantity of this substance, the base of which seizes 
on the colouring fecula, determines the greater or 
less intensity observed in tlje colour of the lake re- 
sulting from it. When the process is conducted on a 
small scale, and by way of trial, the precipitate is 
received on a filter. It is then washed with warm 
water, and when it has acquired the consistence of 
soft paste, it is formed into small cakes or sticks. It 
is tliis substance which constitutes the beautiful 
carminated lakes used for crayon painting. 

Another, in the large -way. — In operating on a 
large scale, the whole of the alkaline liquor judged 
necessary, after a few trials, to decompose the 
quantity of alum intended to be employed, may be 
divided into three or four separate portions. As 
many cloth filters as there are alkaline portions, 
being then prepared, the first portion of alkaline 
liquor is poured out, and the coloured precipitate 
resulting from it is i-eceived on one of the filters : 
the coloured liquor which passes through the filter 
receives the second portion of alkaline liquor, and 
the latter produces a second precipitate, which is 
received on a new filter. This operation is then 
continued till the last portion of alkaline liquor 
has been employed. Tiie lakes deposited on the 
filters are washed in warm water; and when drain- 
ed, are carried along with their cloth to the plas- 
ter dryers, or to beds of new bricks. These dryers, 
made of wrought plaister in tlie form of thick ba- 
sins, attract the moisture of the paste, and shorten 
the process. The first precipitation gives a car- 
minated lake of a very higli colour; the second is 
somewhat higher; and the rest go on decreasing in 
the same manner. 

By these means the artist obtains from the same 
bath shades of colour varied to infinity, much mel- 
lower, and more delicate than those resulting from 
a mechanical mixture of white clay in different 
doses, and lake saturated with colour by one ope- 
ration. 

To preserve pencil and chalk drmuings. 

Get 9. pMi or tub, sufficiently spacious to admit 
the drawing horizontally ; fill it with clean water; 
and run the drawing through in that direction: 
then lay it on something flat to dry. (Do not lay 
the drawing, while luet, on any coloured wood, 
such as mahogany, &c. which will stain the paper 
in streaks. ) 'i'his will take oft" the loose lead. 

Secondly. Fill the same vessel a second time, 
■with rather more than one-third new milk, and 
the remaining part clean water, through which run 
the drawing again horizontally, and leave it to dry 
as before. 

Should milk be scarce, mix a little (in the pro- 
portions above-mentioned), in a tea-cup, and run 
the drawing lightly over with a camel-hair pencil, 
the water having already taken oft" the superfluous 
lead, and, in some degree, fixed tlie other; but be 
particularly light with the pencil, never touching 
the drawing twice jn the same place. 

To preserve black lead pencil dra-wings. 

Apply a thin wash of isinglass, which will pre- 
vent rubbing off" of either black lead, or of hard 
black chalk. The simple application of skimmed 
milk will produce the same effect. In using the 



latter, lay the drawing flat, upon the surface of the 
milk; tlien taking it up expeditiously, hang it, by 
one corner, till it drains and dries. The milfc 
must be perfectly free from cream, or it will 
grease the paper. 

To fix crayon colours. 

Paste your paper on canvas, stretched on a 
frame in the usual way. When your drawing is 
finished, dilute drying oil with spirits of tui-pen- 
tine, and apply the mixture to the back of tha 
drawing, or on the canvas. In a few daj'S, when 
perfectly dry, give the face of the picture a coating 
of tlie same, and your crayon drawing will become 
(as the discoverer terms it) an oil painting. 
To make artificial black lead pencils. 

Melt together fine Cumberland black-lead in 
powder and shell lac. This compound is to be 
repeatedly powdered and re-melted until of uni- 
form composition; it is then sawn into' slips, and 
mounted as usuah Pencils thus made are uniform, 
and of great strength, and there is no waste of ma- 
terials. 

To make English draiving pencils. 
They are formed of black-lead alone, sawn 
into slips, which are fitted into a groove made in a 
piece of wood, and another slip of wood glued over 
them: the softest wood, as cedar, is made choice 
of, tliat the pencil may be the easier cut; and a 
part at one end, too short to be conveniently used 
after the rest has been worn and cut away, is left 
unfilled with the black-lead, that there may be no 
waste of so valuable a commodity. 

These pencils are greatly preferable to others, 
being accompanied with some degree of the same 
inconveniences, and being very unequal in their 
quality, on account of different sorts of the mine- 
ral being fraudulently joined together in one pen- 
cil, the fore-part being commonly pretty good, 
and the rest of an inferior kind. Some, to avoid 
these imperfections, take the finer pieces of black- 
lead itself, wliich they saw into slips, and fix for 
use in port-crayons: this is doubtless the surest 
way of obtaining black-lead crayons, whose good- 
ness can be depended on. 

To make crayons for dra-ming. 

Mix to one pint of boiling water 3 ounces ol 
spermaceti, 1 lb. of fine ground long ash with the 
colouring matter a sufficient quantity; roll out the 
paste, and wlien half drj', cut it in pipes. 

Another method. — This preparation has given 
birth to a particular kind of painting. In the large 
wa3% it consists in mixing up with the coloured 
bath an argillaceous matter of the first qualityy and 
subjecting tlie whole to careful evaporation, or in 
exposing the liquid paste on dryers of plaster with 
a clean cloth to prevent the crayon from adhering 
to tlie dryer. 

This method is more economical than the che- 
mical process; but it requires a very nice choice 
In the quality of the white desired for the opera- 
lion, and in particular the precaution of previous 
washing, to remove the fine sandy parts with which 
the finest white clays are mixed. 

It the composer of crayons be also a manufac- 
turer of carminated lakes, and prefer to mix the 
bath of cocjiineal with white clay, well washed, 
and of the first quality, he may obtain the same 
shades by diluting with one measure of the decoc- 
tion of cochineal, different quantities of clay. For 
example, a pound of decoction saturated with co- 
lour, and a quarter of a pound of clay; the same 
quantity of decoction, and half a pound of clay; a 
pound, and so on. 

To enlarge or diminish the size of a picture. 

Divide the sides of the original with a pair 01 
compasses into any number of equal parts, and 
rule lines across with a black lead pencil from side 



WATER COLOURS. 



55 



to side, and from top to bottom. Then having the 
paper of the size intended, divide it into the same 
number of squares, either larger or less, to enlarge 
or contract it. Then placing the original before 
you, draw square by square the several parts, ob- 
serving to make the part of the figure you draw 
fall in the same part of the squares in the copy as 
it does in the original. To prevent mistakes, 
number the squares both of the original and copy. 
To prevent the necessity of ruling across the 
original, which may injure it, take a square pane 
of crown glass and divide its sides, and also its top 
and bottom into equal parts; then from each divi- 
sion draw lines across the glass with lamp black 
ground with gum water, and divide the glass into 
squares. I'hen lay the glass upon the original, 
and having drawn the same number of squares upon 
the paper, proceed to copy into each square on the 
paper what appears behind each corresponding 
square of the glass. Instead of a glass, an open 
frame with threads stretched across will answer. 
To take a copy of a print or drawing. 
Take a sheet of the finest white paper, wet it 
over with clean linseed oil on one side, and wipe 
the oil off clean, then let it stand and dry, other- 
wise it will spoil a printed picture by the soaking 
through of the oil. Having thus prepared the pa- 
per, lay it on any printed or painted picture, and 
it may be seen perfectly through; then with a black 
lead pencil copy with ease any pictui'e on the oiled 
paper, tiien put it upon a sheet of clean white pa- 
per, and with a little pointed tracer or burni slier, 
go over the strokes drawn upon the oiled paper, 
and the same will be very neatly and exactly drawn 
upon the white paj>er. 

To make a scale for dividing the vanishing lines 
in perspective. 
Take a sheet of paper, and having made an hori- 
zontal line, fix on a point, as a centre, called the 
point of siglit. Let this point be crossed with 
diagonal lines, in various directions. 

Ibe instrument thus prepared, will form a sure 
guide to an unexperienced eye, in taking the pros- 
pective lines of all objects placed at right angles, 
such as streets, buildings, churches, apartments, 
by merely placing it under the leaf to be drawn on. 
To render the instrument more complete, a plate 
of glass should be added of tlie same size as tlie 
leaf of the drawing book on which tlie dark lines 
should be drawn. 

To mix Toater colours for animals. 
Horses. 
Chesnut brown. — Red ochre and black, mixed 
together, shaded with black, heightened with red 
oehre and while. 

Grey. — Black and white mixed, shaded with 
black, white, and bistre; heightened with pure 
water. 

Mack. — Black lightly laid on, shaded with Keat- 
ing's black and bistre; heightened with masticot. 
Ziions. 
Colour much the same manner as hogs, adding 
lake in the ground colour. 

Hears. 
Brown-ochre, red-ochre, and black, mixed; 
shaded with bistre and ivory-black. 
fVolves. 
Spanish liquorice and black, shaded with black. 

.^sses. 
Black and white mixed; or add a little brown 
ochre shaded with black. 

Elephants. 

Black, white, and Spanish liquorice mixed; 

shaded with black and bistre; the inner part of 

the nose vermilion and white, shaded with black. 

JVlonkeys, &c. 

Dutch pink and black, heightened with masti- 



cot and white: the face, black and bistre mixed, 
as also their feet, and below their bellies, shaded 
with black and pink mixed with a little brown- 
ochre. 

Stags. 
Brown-ochre, shaded with bisb-e towards the 
back; the neck and belly white, the mouth and 
ears inclining to red, the hoofs black, and legs 
shaded with black. 

To paint fniit in water colonrs. 
Jipples. — Thin masticot mLxed vith verdigris, 
shaded with brown ochre. 

Pears. — Masticot, deepened and mellowed with 
brown-ochre; the bloom the same as the apple. 

Cherries. — Vermilion and lake, shaded with 
carmine, heightened with vermilion and white. 

Stratuberries. — White; draw it over with ver- 
milion and lake, shaded with fine lake, heightened 
witli red lead and masticot, mixed; and, after, 
with white; stipple them with white and thin lead 
onl}% 

Mue Grapes. — Dark purple, shaded with blue; 
the bloom bice. 

White Grapes.— A. mixture of verdigris and 
masticot, shaded with tliin verdigris, heightened 
with masticot and white. 

Peaches. — Thin masticot, shaded with brown- 
ochre; the bloom lake, heightened with white. 
To paint flotvers. 
Auricidas. — A tender wash of gamboge, shaded 
with sap green and carmine, blended together. 
Round the centre leave a broad white space, whicli 
shade with Indian ink and gi-een sap, mixed; stip- 
ple the gamboge with a purple extracted from 
logwood; the cup, in the inside, strong yellow, 
shaded with Dutch pink, or gall-stones; stipple it 
with white, darkening the white gradually with 
Indian ink, as the shade increases. 

Anemones. — A thin wash of gamboge, shaded 
with bistre, or carmine and sap green blended to- 
gether; the stripes carmine, shaded with the same, 
indigo in the dai'kest parts, or stipple with it. The 
leaves sap green, shaded with indigo and French 
berries: the stalk brown. 

Yellow Croxvn Imperials. — A thin wash of gam- 
boge, upon that another of washed red lead, shad- 
ed with carmine. The leaves sap gi'een, shaded 
with indigo and French berries. 

Roses. — A light tint of pure carmine, over which 
another equally light of Peruvian blue, which will 
give the flowers a tint of that bloom which appears 
in nature; proceed with darker shades of carmine, 
of the best sort. In the darkest parts of the flower, 
add a little indigo, whicli will give a roimdness 
and body to your work. — If the seeds are seen, lay 
on some gamboge, shaded with gall stone; the up- 
per side of the leaves sap green, shaded with indi- 
go and French hemes mixed; the under part, 
white indigo and sap green, mixed; shaded with 
the same. The stalks brown, made of sap green 
and carmine, shaded with indigo. 

Rose-bnds. — A pale wash of carmine, shaded with 
a stronger wash of the same; let the hatchings be 
extremely tender, preserving tliat transparency 
and sweetness the flower has by nature. The stalks 
and leaves begin and finish with sap green, after 
which, a sliglit wash of carmine. 

Orange Crown Imperials. — A thin wash of red 
lead, the light shades carmine, the dark vermilion 
and bistre mixed; the seed the same as the flower. 
The leaves and stalks as the preceding. 

Honey Suckles. — The inside of the petals white . 
shaded with sap green, or gamboge and bistre; 
which insides are to be shewn by curling the leaves 
back at the ends, or splitting them. The outsides. 
a thin wash of ermine and lake mixed, shaded with 
carmine, — indigo for the darkest shades. It is to 



6G 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



be observed, that some of the flowers gi-owing on 
the same stalk are inclinable to iiutple, others tn 
carmine; the style anil buttons.to be seen al the end 
of tlie flower, are of a faint green. Tlic stalks, 
sap-green and carmine; the leaves, sap green, 
ehuded with indigo and French berries. 
To draw birds in lunter colours. 

Eagles. — l?lack and brown, shaded with indigo; 
the feathers heightened by brown ochre and while; 
the beak and claws safFron, shaded with bistre; tlie 
eyes with vermilion, heightened with masticot or 
saffron, shaded with verrailiou. 

Turkeys. — Both male and female: — the back 
black and white, mixed gradually, shaded off to a 
•white under the belly; sprinkled and shaded with 
black. 

S-ivqns. — White shaded with black; the legs and 
bills black; the eyes yellow, a ball in tlie midst. 

Geese. — Ceruse shaded with black; tlie legs 
black; the bill red. 

Phea~sa7i!s. — White and black mixed; the e3'es 
like tliose of the falcon; the legs Dutch pink, shad- 
ed witli black. 

Owls. — Ochre mixed with white, in different 
shades; the legs yellow oclire. 

Hides for painting landscapes in tvatsr colours. 

The most useful colours for landsca])es are, lake, 
burnt oclire, g;miboge, indigo, or light red, sepia, 
Prussian blue, and terra de sienna. 

Skies are tinted with indigo; and the distant hills 
may also receive a finish wash of the same colour. 
Uuildings, ground, and road, sliouhi be tinlei* with 
ochre. The bushes and grass may be forwarded 
■with a tint of gamboge. The distances may be 
lieightened witli a tint of lake, and the dark sha- 
dows of the building may be tinted with sepia. 

In retiring hills, tint the whole with weak blue, 
then the nearer ones with indigo and lake; then add 
a little gamboge to the next, keejjing one subordi- 
nate to the other; the most distant being lost in 
the aei'ial tints. Clouds should be tinted with se- 
pia. Opposing masses of trees should be tinted 
■with sepia and indigo, and distant trees with grey. 
Tlie lights warmed with gamboge and oclire, and 
their sliades deepened with indigo. Force is ac- 
<]uired by adding sepia to indigo, in the cold parts, 
and sepia with lake to tlie glowing parts. Breadtlis 
of light are obtained by destroying the scattered 
lights with greys. 

To prepare a landscape. 

The student is first to sketch the outlines fjiintly 
with a black lead pencil, and then jii'oceed witli 
the hair pencil to tint and shadow, without the in- 
tervention of the crow-pen, or witliout any other 
fixed outline than what the tints and shadows pro- 
duce. 

I'he mixture of the grey colour is made of burnt 
umber, indigo, and lake; each to be rubbed in a 
saucer separately, and then mixed in due \)ropor- 
tion in a fourth saucer, so as to produce the exact 
colour, which may be called a warm grey. 

The colour is then to be thinned with water for 
the light tints, as tlie sky, distances, Jcc. Deeper 
are to be used for the darker shadows, and near 
parts, finishing off, and softening with water, till 
ihe exact effect is produced. 

He may then proceed to colour according to the 
following directions. 

Colours to be used. — Coal brown, rosy madder, 
Prussian blue, in(hgo, ultramarine, brown sienna, 
Roman ochre, j'ellow oclire, Venetian red, gam- 
boge, burnt sienna, lamp black, Vandyke brown, 
purple lake. 

To select the colours. 

The clouds are produced by a thin mixture of in- 
digo and lake. 

1"|;p agure sky, towards the horizon, is of lake 



and gamboge, and should be done with a clear 

brush. 

The lower, or horizontal clouds, are tinged with 
ultramarine. 
» The distant lands are of ultramarine and lake. 

The distant trees are also of ultramarine, with a 
wash of indigo, gamboge, and burnt sienna. 

The middle distance trees are pro<luced by a 
thin wash of burnt sienna and gamboge. 

Tlie nearer trees arc tinted with a wash of burnt 
sienna, indigo, and gamboge; towards the shadows 
more of indigo is incorporated. 

The grass is waslied with a mixture of burnt sien- 
na, indigo, and gamboge; that in shadow has rather 
more indigo. 

The road and patlis are produced by a mixttU'C 
of lake, burnt umber, and burnt sienna. 

The house is sometimes tinted with a mixture 
of lake and gamboge. The tiling and shadows have 
an excess of lake. 

The windows are of indigo and burnt umber. 

The smoke is lake and indigo. 

The sheep are of burnt umber and gamboge. 

The figures are touched with lake and ineligo. 

For landscapes, no other colours than the above 
are requisite, and they can be purchased in prepar- 
ed cakes. 



TO PAIXT IN CRAYONS. 

Implements. 

The student must pi-ovide liimself with some 
strong blue paper, the tliicker the better, if the 
grain is not too coarse or knotty, the knots should 
be levelled with a penknife or razor, otherwise 
they will prove exceedingly troublesome. , After 
this is done, the paper must be passed very smooth 
on a linen cloth, previously strained on a deal 
frame, the size according to tlie artist's jileasure: 
on this the picture is to be executed; but it is most 
eligible nnt to paste the jiaper on till tlie whole 
subject is first dead coloured Now lay the paper 
with the dead colour on its tiice upon a smooth 
board, when, by means of a brusii, the back side of 
tlie paper must be covered with paste: the frame, 
with the strained cloth, must then be laid on the 
pasted side of the paper; after which turn tlie 
painted side uppermost, and lay a piece of clean 
paper upon it, to prevent smearing it; this being 
done, it may be stroked over gently by the hand, 
by wliich means all the air between the cloth and 
the paper will be forced out. 

AYhen the paste is perfectly dry, the jiaiiitiug 
may be proceeded witli. 

lira-wing the outlines. 

Let the outlines be drawn on tiie glass with a 
small camel's hair pencil dipped in lake, ground 
tliem with oils, whicli ma)' be done with great ex- 
actness. After tliis is accomplished, take a sheet 
of paper of the same size, and place it on the glass, 
stroking over ."dl the lines with the hand, by wliich 
means the colour will adhere to the jiaste, which 
must be pierced with pin holes pretty close. The 
liaper must be next laid upon the table, and the 
pierced paper laid upon it; then with some fine 
pounded charcoal, tied up in a piece of lawn, rub 
over the pierced lines, which will give an exact 
outline; but great care must be taken not to brush 
tins off till the whole is drawn over with sketching 
chalk, which is a com))osi'tion made of whiting atul 
tobacco-pipe clay, rolled like the crayons and point- 
ed at each end. 

Painting from life. 

When a student paints immediately from life, it 
will be prudent to make a correct drawing of the 
ouiliues on another paper, the size of the picture 



CRAYONS. 



67 



he is going to paint, -wlienlie may trace ty the pre- 
ceding mctliod, because erroneous strokus of the 
sketciiing clialk will prevent the crayons from nd- 
nering to the paper, owing to a certain greasy qua- 
lity in the composition. 

Posture and light. 

The student will find tlie sitting posture with the 
box of cravons in his lap the most convenient me- 
thod lor him to paint. The part of the picture he 
is immediately painting, should he ratlier below 
his face; for if it is placed too high, tlie arm will 
be firtigued. Let the window ot the room where 
he paints be darkened at least to the heigiit of six 
feet from the ground; and the subject to be painted 
should be situated in such a manner, that the light 
may fall with every advantage on tlie face, avoiding 
much shadow, which seldom has a good effect iu 
l)ortrait painting. 

Features of the face. 

The features of the face being correctly drawn 
with chalks, let the student take a crayon of pure 
carmine, and carefully draw the nostril and edge of 
the nose next the shadow; then with the faintest car- 
mine tint, lay-in the highest light upon the nose 
and forehead, which must be executed broad. Then 
proceed gradually with the second tint, and the 
succeeding ones, till arrived at the shadows, which 
must be covered brilliant, enriched with much lake, 
carmine, and deep green. I'his method appears 
at first uninviting, but in the finishing it will pro- 
duce a pleasing effect, colours being much easier 
sullied when too bright, than, when its colouring is 
dull, to raise the picture into a brilliant state. The 
several pearly tints distinguishable in fine com- 
plexions, must be imitated with blue verditer and 
white, which answers to the ultramarine tints used 
in oil. But if the parts of the face where these 
tints appear are in shadow, the crayons com])Osed 
of black and white must be substituted in their place. 
When tlie student begins the eyes, let him draw 
them with a crayon inclined to the carmined lint, of 
•whatever colour the irises are; he must lay them on 
brilliant and thin of colour, not yet noticing tlie pu- 
pil : he must then let the light of the eye incline 
very much to the blue cast, cautiously avoiding a sta- 
ring white appearance, preferring a broad shadow 
dirown on the upper part of tlie eye-lash. A black 
and heavy tint is iUso to be avoided in the eye brows; 
it is therefore best to execute them like a broad glow- 
ing shadow at first, on which, in the finishing, the 
liairs of the brow are to be painted; by wliich me- 
thod of proceeding the former tints will shew them- 
selves through, and produce the most pleasing 
effect. 

The student should begin the lips with pure car- 
mine and lake, and in the shadow use some car- 
mine and black; the strong vermilion tints should 
be laid on afterwards. He must be aware of exe- 
cuting them with stiff hard lines, gently intermix- 
ing each with the neighbouring colours, making 
tlie shadow beneath broad and enriched with liril- 
liant crayons. He must form the corner of tlie 
tpouth with carmine, brown ochre, and greens, va- 
riously intermixed. If the hair is dark, he should 
preserve much of the lake and deep carmine tints 
Uierein : tbis may be overpowered easily by the 
warmer hair-tints, which, as observed in pajnting 
tlie eye-brows, will produce a richer effect when 
tlie picture is finished; on the contrary, if this me- 
thod is neglected, a poverty of colouring will be 
discernible. 

After tlie artist has dead coloured the head, he 
js to begin rubbii)g the forehead at the strongest 
light, first over with his finger, passing it very 
lightly till he unites it with the next tint, and so on 
till the whoje is softened together, often wiping 
bis finger to prevent the colours being rubbed. 
li 



After tlie head is forwankd let him lay in the back- 
ground, covering it as thin as possible and rubbing 
it into the paper with a leather stump. Near the 
face the paper should be almost free from colour. 
In the back-ground also those crayons which are 
tlie most brilliant should be used, next paint the 
edges of the hair over in a light and free man- 
ner. 

The artist may now note what parts are too light 
and what too dark. He is then to complete the 
back-ground, and the hair, as the dust in painting 
these will fall on the face, and would much injui-e 
it if completed first. 

In the last painting of Uie forehead, begin the 
highest light with the most faint vermilion tint; iu 
tlie next shade, succeeding the lightest, the student 
must work in some light blue tints, composed of 
verditer and white, intermixing with them some of 
the deeper vermilion tints, so as to let them insen- 
sibly melt into each other: some brilliant yellows 
I may be sparingly used; and towards tlie i-oots of 
the hair, strong verditer tints, intermixed witii 
green, will apply well. Beneath the eyes the 
sweet pearly tints are to be kept eompcsed of ver- 
diter and white, and under the iiose,'and on the 
temples, the same may be used: beneath the lips 
the same is also proper, mixing tliera with light 
green and some vermilion. 

In finishing the cheeks, clear them with pure 
lake, then with the same intermix bright vermi- 
lion; and last of all, if required, a few touches of 
the oi-ange coloured crayon. After, sweeten that 
part witii the finger as little as possible, for fear of 
producing a heaviness on the cheeks. 

The eye is the most difficult feature to execute. 
If the eye lashes are dark he must use some of the 
carmine and brown ochre, and the crayon ot cai'- 
mine and black; and with these last, of brown or 
hazel, make a broad shadow caused by the eye-lash. 
The pupil of the eye must be made ol" pure lamp 
black; between this and the lower part of tlie iris 
the light will catch very strong, but it must be 
gently diffused round the pupil till it is lost in 
shade. When the eye-balls are sufficiently pre- 
pared, the shining speck must be made with a pure 
white crayon, first broken to a point, and th(;n laid 
on firm; but as it is possible they may be defective 
in neatness, they should be eoirected witli a pin, 
taking off tlie redundant parts. 

The difficulty with respect to the nose is to pre- 
serve the lines properly determined, and at the 
same time so artfully blended into tlie cheek, as to 
express its projection, and yet no real line to be 
perceptible upon a close exan'iination; in some cir- 
cumstances it should be quite blended witli the 
cheek, which appears behind it, and determined 
entirely with a slight touch of red chalk. The 
shadow caused by the nose is generally the darkest 
in the whole tace. Carmine and brown ochre, and 
carmine and black, will compose it best. 

Having prepared the lips witli tlie strongest lake 
and carmine, they must, with these colours, be 
made perfectly correct; and when finished, intro- 
duce the strong vermilions, but with great caution 
as they are extremely predominant. This, it pro- 
perly touched, will give the lips an appearance, 
equa'l, if not superior, to those executed in oils, 
notwithstanding tlie seeming superiority the latter 
has by means of glazing. 

The neck, &c. 

To paint the neck, the artist should avoid ex- 
pressing the muscles too strong in the stem, nor 
should the bones appear too evident on the chest, 
as both have an unpleasing effect denoting a violent 
agitation of the body — a circumslau "t»^ seldom ne- 
cessary to express in portrait painting. The most 
necessary part to be expressed, ai.d wlui^h should 



58 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



ever be observed, even in the most delicate subject, 
is a strong marking just above tiie place where the 
collar bones unite; and if the head is much thrown 
over the shoulders, some notice should be taken of 
a large muscle that rises from behind the car, and 
is inserted into the pit between the collar bones. 
All inferior muscles should be in general quite 
avoided. The student will find this caution neces- 
sary, as most subjects, especially thin persons, have 
the muscle of the neck much more apparent than 
would be judicious to imitate. In colouring the 
neck, let the stem of a pearly hue predominate, 
and the light not so strong as on the chest. If any 
part of the breast appears, its transparency must 
also be expressed by pearly tints; but the upper 
part of the chest should be coloured with beautiful 
vermilions, delicately blended witli the other. 
Draperies, &c. 

Dark blue, purple, black, pink, and all kinds of 
red draperies also, should be first tinged witli car- 
mine, which will render the colours much more 
brilliant tlian any other method; over this should 
be laid on the paper the middle tint, (a medium 
between the light and dark tints, of which the dra- 
pery is to be painted), except the dark masses of 
shadow; wliich should be laid on at first as deep as 
possible ; tliese sweetened with the finger, be- 
ing destitute of smaller folds, will exhibit a mas- 
terly breadth, which the lesser folds, when added, 
ought by no means to destroy. With the light and 
dark tints, the smaller parts are next to be made 
with freedom, executing as much with the crayon, 
and as little with the finger as possible : in each 
told touching the last stroke with the crayon, which 
stroke the finger must never touch. In the case of 
reflections, the simple touch of the crayon will be 
too harsh, therefore fingering will be necessary af- 
terwards, as reflected lights iU'e always more gentle 
than those which are direct. With respect to re- 
flections in general, they must always partake of 
tlie same colour as the object reflecting; but in 
cases of single figures, it may be useful to make 
some particular observations. 

In a blue di-apery, let the reflections be of a green- 
ish cast: in green draperies, make them of a yel- 
low tint, in yellow of an orange, in orange reflect 
a reddish cast; in all reds something of their own 
nature, but inclined to the yellow; black should 
have a reddish reflection; the reflection of a reddish 
tint will also present purples to the best advantage. 
Of whatever colour the drapery is, the reflection of 
the face must partake thereof, otherwise the pic- 
ture, like painting on glass, will have but a gaudy 
effect. 

Linen, lace, fur, &c. should be touched spirit- 
edly witli the crayon, fingering very little, except 
the latter; and the last touches even of this, like 
all other parts, should be executed with the crayon, 
without sweetening with the finger. 

To prepare coloured crayons. 
•Take a large vessel of water, put the whiting 
into it, and mix them well together; let this stand 
about half a minute, then pour the top into another 
%'essel, and throw the gritty sediment away; let 
what is prepared rest about a minute, then pour it 
oflf as before, which will purify the whiting, and 
render it free from all dirt and grittiness. When 
this is done, let the whiting settle, and then pour 
the water from it, after which, lay it on the chalk 
to dry, and keep it for use, either for white cray- 
ons, or the purpose of preparing tints with other 
colours, for with this all other tints may be safely 
prepared. If the student wishes to make crayons 
of the whiting directly after it is washed, it is not 
necessary to dry it on the chalk, for it may be 
mixed instantly with any other coloui-, which will 
save considerable trouble. All colours of a heavy or 



grittv' nature, especially blue verditer, must be 
purified by washing after this method. 

The student must be provided with a large flexi- 
ble pallet-knife, a large stone and muller to levi- 
gate the colours, two or three large pieces of chalk, 
to absorb the moisture from the colours after they 
have been levigated, a piece of flat glass, to pre- 
vent the moisture from being absorbed too much, 
till the colours are rolled into form, and vessels 
for water, spirits, &c. as necessity and conveni- 
ence shall direct. 

Heels. 

It is rather difficult to procure either good car- 
mine or good lake. Good carmine is inclined to 
the vermilion tint, and good lake to the carmine 
tint. The carmine crayons are prepared in the 
following manner. 

Carrrdne. 

As their texture is inclinable to hardness, in- 
stead of grinding and rollin.^ them, take a suffi- 
cient quantity of carmine, laying it upon the grind- 
ing-stone; mix it with a levigating-knifc with spirit 
of wine, till it becomes smooth and even. The 
chalk-stone being ready, lay the cover upon it to 
absorb the spirit; but be careful that it is laid in 
a proper state for painting. If it is levigated too 
thin, the crayons will be too flat, and if too thick, 
it will occasion a waste of colour, by their adher- 
ing to the pallet-knife; but practice will render 
the proper degree of consistence familiar. The 
simple colour being prepared, the next step is to 
compose the different tints by the mixture with 
whiting; the proportion to be observed consisting 
of twenty gradations to one, which maybe clearly 
understood by the following gradations. Take 
some of the simple colour and levigate it with 
spirit of wine, adding about one part of washed 
whiting to three parts of carmine, of which, when 
properly incorporated, make two parcels. The 
next gradation should be composed of equal parts 
of carmine and whiting, of which four crayons 
may be made. The third composition should have 
one-fourth carmine, and three-fourths whiting; of 
this mix six crayons, which will be a good pro- 
portion for the rest. The last tint should be made 
of whiting, very faintly tinged witli carmine, of 
which make about twenty cravens, which will 
complete the above-mentioned proportion. As 
these compound tints are levigated, they are to be 
laid immediately upon the cloth, that the moisture 
may be absorbed to the proper degree of dryness 
to form it into crayons, which may be known by 
its losing the greater part of its adhesive quality 
when taken into the hand; if the consistency is 
found to be right, it may be then laid upon the 
glass, which, having no pores, will prevent the 
moisture from being carried off" before it is conve- 
nient to form it into crayons, otherwise the cray- 
ons will be full of cracks and very brittle, which 
will be a great inconvenience when they are used 
in painting. 

Lake. 

This is a colour veiy apt to be hard, to prevent 
which the student must observe the following par- 
ticulars. Take about half the quantity of lake in- 
tended for the crayons; and grind it very fine with 
spirit of wine; let it dry, and then pulverize it, 
which, if the lake is good, is easily done; then 
take the other half and grind it with spirit; after 
which mix it with the pulverized lake, and lay it 
out directly in crayons on the chalk. This colour 
will not bear rolling. The simple colour being 
thus prepared, proceed with the compound cr.iy- 
ons as directed before, and in the same gradation 
as the carmine tint. 

VermiUon. 

The best is inclined to the carmine tint. Noth« 



CRAYONS. 



59 



tng is re<|uired to prepare this colour more than 
to mix it on the stone with soft water or spirit, af- 
ter which it may be rolled with crayons. The dif- 
ferent tints are produced by a mixture of the sim- 
ple colour with whiting, according to the propor- 
tions already given. 

Shies. 
Prussian blue is a colour very apt to bind, and 
is rendered soft with more difficulty than carmine 
and lake. The same method of preparation to be 
followed with this, as directed with respect to lake, 
only it is necessary to grind a large quantity of the 
pure colour, as it is cliiefly used for painting dra- 
peries. The different tints may be made accord- 
ing to necessity. Blue verditer is a colour natu- 
rally gritty, and therefore it is necessarj' to make 
it well. Its particles .ire so coarse as to require 
some binding matter to unite them, otherwise the 
Crayons will never adhere together. To accom- 
plish this, take a quantity sufficient to form two or 
three cr.ayons, to which add a piece of flaked plas- 
ter of Paris, about the size of a pea; mix these 
•well together, and form the crayons upon a clialk. 
Tliis blue is extremely brilliant and will be of 
great use in heightening draperies, kc. The tints 
must be formed with whiting, as directed in the 
former instances, and are higlily serviceable in 
painting flesh, to produce those pearly tints so 
beautiful in crayon pictures. It is not necessary 
to mix the compound with spirit, as clear water 
will be sufficient. 

Greens. 
Brilliant greens are produced with great diffi- 
culty. In Switzerland they have a method of 
making theiu far superior to ours. We usually 
take yellow ochre, and, after grinding it with spi- 
rit, mix it with the powder of Prussian blue ; then 
temper it with a knife, and lay the crayons on the 
chalk without rolling them. Instead of this, some 
use King's yellow mixed with Prussian blue, and 
others, brown ochre with Prussian blue. The 
crayons made of the two last may be rolled. Va- 
rious tints may he produced by these colours, ac- 
cording to fancy or necessity; some to partake 
more of the blue, and others of the yellow. 
Yellows. 
King's yellow is the most useful and the most 
brilliant, levigated with spirit of wine, to compose 
the different tints as before directed. Yellow 
ochre, and Naples yellow ground with spirits, will 
produce useful crayons. Orange is produced with 
King's yellow and vermilion ground together, 
and the tints formed as in other casts, but no great 
quantity of them is required. 
Jiroivns. 
Cullen's earth is a fine dark brown. After six 
or eight of the simple crayons are prepared, several 
rich compound tints may be prepared from it, by 
a moisture of carmine of various degrees. Black 
carmine, and this colour, mixed together, make 
useful tints for painting hair; several gradations 
may be produced from each other of these b}' a 
mixture with whiting. Roman, or brown ochre, 
is an excellent colour, either simple or compound- 
ed with carmine. AV biting, tinged in sevei-al de- 
grees with either of these, will prove very service- 
able in painting. Umber may be treated in just 
the same manner, only it is necessary to levigate 
■with spirit of wine. 

Purjiles. 
Prussian blue ground with spirit and mixed with 
pulverized lake, will produce a good purple. Car- 
mine, thus mixed with Prussian blue, will produce 
a purple somewhat diff'erent from the former. Va- 
rious tints may be made from either of these com- 
pounds, by a mixture with whiting. 



Black. 

Lamp-black is the only black that can be used 
with safetj', as all others are subject to mildew, 
but as good lamp-black is very scarce, the student 
will, perhaps, find it most expedient to make it 
himself; the process of which is as follows : Pro- 
vide a tin cone, fixed over a lamp, at such a height 
that the flame may just reach the cone for the soot 
to gather within it. When a sufficient quantity is 
collected, take it out and burn all the grease from 
it, in a crucible. It must then be ground with spi- 
rits, and laid on the chalk to absorb all the mois- 
ture. Various grey tints maybe formed from this 
by a mixture with whiting, as mentioned in former 
instances. Vermilion mixed with carmine : this 
is a composition of great use, and tints made from 
this with whiting, will be found to be veiy servi- 
ceable. Carmine and black is another good com- 
pound, of which five or six gradations should be 
made, some ])artaking of the black, and others hav- 
ing the carmine most predominant, besides seve- 
ral tints b)' a mixture with whiting. Vermilion and 
black is also a very useful compound, from which 
sever.il tints should be made. Prussian blue and 
black is another good compound, and will be founo 
of singular service in painting draperies. 

It is impossible to lay down rules for the form- 
ing of every tint necessary in composing a set ot 
crayons, there being many accidental compositions^ 
entirely dependent upon fancy and opinion. Tha 
student should make it a rule to save the leaving* 
of his colours, for of these he may form varioui 
tints, which will occasionally be useful. 

The different compositions of colours must bd 
cut into a proper magnitude, after they are prepar- 
ed, in order to roll into pastils, for the conveni . 
ence of using them. Each crayon should be form- 
ed in the left hand, with the ball of the right, first 
formed cylindrically, and then tapering at each 
end. If the composition is too dry, dip the finger 
in water; if too wet, tlie composition must be laid 
on tlie chalk again, to absorb more of the moisture. 
The crayons should be rolled as quick as possible, 
and when finished, must be laid on the chalk again, 
to absorb all remaining moisture. After the grada 
tion of tints from one colour is formed, the stone 
should be scraped and well cleaned with water, be~ 
fore it is used for another colour. 

Arrangement of the crayons. 

When the set of crayons is completed, they 
should be arranged in classes, for the convenience 
of painting with them. Some thin drawers, divid- 
ed into a number of partitions, is the most conve- 
nient method of disposing them properly. The 
bottom of the partitions must be covered with bran, 
as a bed for the colours, which will preser\'e them 
clean and unbroken. The box made use of, when 
the student paints, should be about a foot square, 
with nine partitions. In the upper corner on the 
left hand (supposing the box to be on the lap when 
he paints), let him place the black and grey cray- 
ons, those being the most seldom used; in the se- 
cond partition, the blues; in the third, the greens 
and browns; in the first partition on th.e left hand 
of the second row, the carmines, lakes, and ver- 
milions, and all deep reds; the yellows and or- 
ange in the middle, and the pearly tints next; and 
as these last are of a very delicate nature, they 
must be kept very clean, that the gradation of co- 
lour may be easily distinguished; in the lower row 
let the first partition contain a fine piece of linen 
rag, to wipe the crayons with while they are using; 
the second, all the pure lake and vermilion tints; 
and the other partition may contain those tints 
which, from their complex I'Pture, cannot be class- 
ed with any of the formei. 



60 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT EOOK. 



TO PAINT ON IVORV AND MINIATURE 
PAlXriNG. 

To prepare hiory for miniatures. 

T;ilcc tlie ivory leaves, or tables on wliicli the 
I)aiiitiiig is to he made, and liaviiij;: ck-anscd them, 
rub thL-m over Avilh tiie juice of garlic. 

Tliis tak('s ofVtliat givasiiiess wliicb is so inucli 
complained of, as i)revcntinp; tlic c )lours from tak- 
ing on the ground, and which is not otherwise to 
Ik: remedied by the use of soap, or even galL 

Aniithev method. — Ivory is never sold in a state 
sufFicienlly polished or white. Tiie process of 
vhitening must be done by placing it in a mode- 
rately heated oven, or in t?ie sun, which will warp 
niie side; turn it tlieu on the other,' and when it 
las the de;;ree of whiteness required, take it out, 
that it may not become too dry; for in tliat case it 
loses its transparency, and is apt to s])lit when cut. 
Tills operation finisiied, proceed to the polishing. 
Home painters use a large ssratclier; others, an in- 
strument, witli a blade three or four inches long, 
tmd of a triangular shajie. To either of these, tiie 
use of a razor is preferaljle; to benelit completely 
by it be sure it lias not the smallest notch in it, or 
that it be not too sharp. Open it so that the back 
])urtofthe blade touches tlie handle; in that way 
use it to scrape tlie ivoiy from angle to angle. 
When the whole is thus polished, begin again from 
tlie conti'ary angles, in order tliat no traces of the 
saw may remain upon tlie side reiiuired to be 
painted. Having pi-ovided pounce-stone, pulver- 
ized and passed tlirough a silk sieve, place the 
ivory in the middle of the bottom of a hand box, 
holding it firm with one band, w bile with the otiier, 
fiike a small bit of jiaper, anil rul) the pounce on 
the siile of tlie ivory whicli has been polisiied; 
Leing always careful to do it witii a circular move- 
ment. 

If the ivory be now of a dead -white, and lias lost 
the shine given to it by the razor, take it out of 
the box, holding it so that the fingers do not toucli 
the surface, so troublesome to prepare, and brush 
off lightly with a painting brush any grits tliat mav 
have adhered to it; for this purpose, take one of 
the largest hair-pencils; it may be sei'viceable to 
i-emove, in the same way, any specks or dust while 
painting. 

Never suffer the fingers to toucli the ivory; hold 
it always at the extremities, for the colour will not 
settle in a place touched by tlie hands." If, however, 
such an accident happens, have recourse to the 
jiumice-powder, and with a paper stuiup, rather 
pointed, gentl}' rub the jilace affected. i3ut, to 
avoid, as much as possible, a recurrence of such 
accidents, when- at work, take a sheet of paper to 
I'est the hand upon, and when there is occasion to 
Use body-colour, have a piece of wood or paste- , 
hoard made for the same purpose, in such a way 
that it touch not the miniature: fur, inconsequence 
of the gum which is in the colours, the iieat of the 
liand might cause the paper to stick to the paint- 
ing. Tlie ivory at last prepared, begin the work 
by placing it on the desk, in the middle, witli a 
sheet of paper under it, and the sketch above. 
To soften ivory. 

Slice half a pound of mandrake, and put /t into 
3 quart of the best vinegar, into which put the ivory; 
let it stand in a warm place for 48 hours, aad the 
ivory may be bent in any direction. 
Manner of sketddng. 

Begin by attacking the strongest shades of the 
head: it is only when perfectly sure of the form of 
tlie four features, that the pupil m:iy try to e.\[)ress 
the exterior shape of the iiead, and the wave of 
the hair. Endeavour, while indicating carefully 
the form, not to jfcnder the lines too hard. If, 



when painting the eyes, the lids are marked by too 
strong an outline, it will be veiy difficult to soften 
it afterwards. The same may be observed relative 
to the eye-lashes, and the shade of the nose and 
chin: begin by sketcliing lliem lightly; observe if 
they are exactly of the same colour and shape a* 
those of the model; then go over them several 
times, till they have acipiired the necessaiy strength. 

In order to succeed lipon what the pupil is now 
employed, ^sujipose it to be tlie head of an old man 
jiainteil by (ireuse) take care at first to use only 
warm colours, and do not till afterwards employ 
those grey tints which are perceived attiic edge of 
the middle tints, towards the side approaching the 
light, otlierwise the shades would not be sufficient- 
ly transparent. J5e very careful to preserve the 
lights, particularly those which arc placed upon' 
the upper jiart of the cheeks, the txtremify of lliu 
nose, and the forehead. 

There are some painters who make use, with 
success, of a pen-knife, to scratch out the colour, 
but it requires skill, and the edge of the bhuVe 
must only be employed, avoiding to touch with tho 
point: it is better to proceed carefully, to be ohlig- 
ed to add colour rather than take it off. Work by 
etching; endeavour to place them at equal distances 
the one front the other, that they may as nearly a3 
])ossib!e denote the forms of the flesh, and the mo- 
tions of the muscles. 

If, notwithstanding tiiese precautions, the colour 
is found too thick, in some parts, or in consequence 
of taking too much water in your brush, some clot- 
ted strokes are perceived, use the point of the 
brush, dip\>e;l in water, tinged v/ith the slightest 
quantity of colour, in order to dissolve it wil-hou* 
entirely taking it away. It is essential, also, to 
avoid working too long upon the same spot, for 
fear of disturbing the coioui-s already put on. 
Colours to ba einploi/ed. 

The princijial siiades of ths heail are made with 
bistre, mixed with burnt sienna, and in sonk; 
jilaces ■v.'xih. precipil'', or a mixture of lake and 
lamp-black. The middle tints are made with yel- 
low ochre, ultramarine, and veiy little of the mix- 
ture above-meulLoued. The flesh-tints are made 
with red brown, upon which touch with a small 
quantity of orange-iake. The green tints, near the 
mouth and neck, are made with yellow-ochre, ul- 
tramarine, and a little lake. The grey hairs, of 
this old man are prepared in the shades with tints 
of bistre and black: in the middle tints, withultra- 
marine, to wiiich add some precipite. 

The eye-ba»Is are made with burnt sienna and 
bistre; it would be well to make use of indigo far 
their outlines. In the white of the eyes there are 
ultramarine, black, and lake; make the mouth with 
brown-red mixed with lake and ultran.arine. Far 
the mouth of a woman, or young man, oije may 
employ, with good eifecl, a little vermilion in the 
under lip, as it usually is of a hijjher colour. At 
present it will be siillicieni to touch the corners 
with burnt sienna and lake. 
Colours to be used in sketcJdiig a ■woman''s head. 

He careful to put scarcely any bistre in tlie 
shades, but make them with the same colours, as 
those already named for the niiihlle tints of the 
old man, namely, ochre, ultramarine, and prcci- 
piie; (he local sliades of the liesh are made with 
orange-lake, which must be enlivened in the parta 
most highly coloured with pure lake and evea a 
littlo vermilion. ]Make the middle tints with i 
slight mixture of lake, ochre, and lUtramarinrf. 
Sketcji the mouth with lake and veriiiilioii, and 
retouch the upper-liii with a little red-brown, uj- 
tramarine, and preapllf; [lUt also a small qu;intit,y 
of ultramarine in the cast shadow of the upper-lip, 
and sliglillv beightentlie corners of the mouth with 



MINIATURE PAINTING. 



61 



a toucli of yellow-oclire, or burnt sienna, inixed 
with lake. 

In painting tlic neck and breast do not lose siglit 
of the Socal tint of the flesh, wliicli must be done 
vith orange-lake: let the sliaiiing be very transpa- 
rent; wasii in well the contours; try to round them 
in placing the etching nearer to each other towards 
the edge, being careful not to lose the original 
foi-m. If the woman's hair is of a l)figlit chesnut, 
in order to give this colour, sketch it with bistre, 
mixed with a little black; put also a mixture of car- 
mine, lake, and lamp-black in tlie strongest shades, 
vtnd after having carefully preserved the lights, go 
over them with water, coloiu-ed with very little 
ochre. There is nothing in nature, ligliter, more 
transparent, or more uncertain, than hair; there- 
fore endeavour to study and express it accordingly. 
!Make the extremities harmonize with the back- 
ground, and do not begin the latter till the head be 
in some degi-ee of forwardness. Sketch it boldly, 
but with light tints, and work upon them as equal- 
ly as possible. The blue parts are made with ul- 
tramarine, then add, in those tlwt are grey, some 
black, and a little precipiL". Work it over with 
tints of burnt sienna in the auburn parts, tiien liar- 
luonize the wboie with one single tint to finish it: 
that is to say, if the general effect he too blue, era- 
ploy hlack for that purpose; if too black, use blue; 
Hud if too cold, add some yellow. As to the dress, 
M-hich is muslin, employ lake mixed with yellow- 
ochre and ultramarine. Put some glazing of In- 
dian yellow iu the. reflected liglit, and shade with 
sienna, lake, and a little black. 

Use and advinitage oj body-colmors. 

The use of body-colours is absolutely necessary 
in painting in miniature for those that are desirous 
of producing much ettect. It would be nearly im- 
possible to make a good copy of a painting in oil, 
V. ithout employing them; besides which, for those 
who are become profic-icnt iu the use of them, they 
possess the great advantage of enabling them to 
paint faster. I3efore making use of these colours 
it is necessary to know them; the following is the 
list. 

French colours — English colours. 

Blanc leger, Liglit white. — Ocre jaune. Yellow 
ochre. — ^efe de rut, Roman ochre. — 'Orpin jaune, 
Yellow orpiment. — Orpin rouge, Red orpiment. — ■ 
Terre de sieiine brulee. Burnt sienna. — Urun 
r-ouge. Light or Indian red. — Vermilion, Vermil- 
jon.— Laque, Lake. — Precipi'ce-Violet, Mixture of 
carmine, lake with Indigo. — Cannin, Carmine. — 
Itidigo, Indigo. — lUue de Prusse, Prussian blue. — 
liistre, Bistre.— Terre de Cologne, Cologne earth. 
— Noir de bougie, Lamp-black. — Gomme gutte, 
(Tamboge.— \'erd de vcssie, iMisturc of sap-grceu 
wiih permanent green. 

In colouring flesh, the lights arc only obt.iined 
by the assistance of the transparency of the colours, 
and the natural whiteness of the ivory; with body- 
colours, on the conti-ary, it is entirely covered, and 
the relief can only be produced by the use of co- 
lottrs more or less luminous. 

To cut and paste the ivory. 

Gut the ivory according to the form desired for 
the picture belore beginning to paint, with body- 
colours; for this purpose make usu of scissars, and 
take cai-e always to direct the points to\wards the 
centre from which ever side the pupil is cutting, in 
order to prevent llie ivory from splitting; tlien 
paste it upon a sheet of very white pasteljottrd, of 
<i tliickiiess proportioned to the size of tlie luinia" 
ture. 

For this purpose use paste extremely white, siicli 
fts is niBile with starch; liieu leave it und«;r a press 
tor some hours. Some painters >isc slieets of sil- 
V»rf ■xltivU tUc^ place between th« ivoiy aud tlie 



pasteboard, to give brilliancy to the painting; but 
tlie eft'ect produced by this is very trifling, and fre- 
(piently turns out in the end very barl, as this me- 
tal is subject to become stained. When there is a 
back-ground, or a drapery to paint in body-colours, 
begin by making a mixture upon the palette, ap- 
proaching as nearly as possible to the general tint 
of the object intended to represent, observing, 
however, that it is better to sketch with too dark 
than too liglit a tint, for it is always easier to add. 
to the lightness than to the darkness of a body-co- 
lour. Avoid wetting the pencil more than is ab- 
solutely necessary for spreading the colour. It 13 
belter to use a little more in making the mixture 
than for spreading it upon the ivory; but be very 
careful not to begin painting till it evaporates a 
moment, as the painting will be better and quicker 
(lone if the colour employed be sufficiently diy. 
To sketch portraits on ivory. 

Take for the model the picture of a man boldlv 
drawn, but, at the same time, finished. Choose ,1 
dark man, because black hair is more easily ex 
pressed upon a back-ground done with body-colour. 
Procure before-hand a glass of the same size as the 
model, if you wish to preserve the copy; md when 
the sketch is flnished, use the same glass to trace 
the form of the picture upon the ivory, with the 
assistance of a leaden pencil. Be very careful to 
trace in such a manner, as that the head may be in 
every direction at the same distance from the oval, 
as it is in the model. In painting from nature, the 
pupil will perceive the importance of placing the 
head in its proper place, in order to give grace to 
the picture. It should approach more or less to 
the border at the top, according to the height of 
the person, but in no case should it ever touch, and 
tliere should always be at least the distance of two 
parts, equivalent to the half of the head. 

Now carefully sketch the head, attentively exa- 
mining the model, to know what colours to use; 
but, while endeavouring to render the work neat and 
even, do not put the etchings too close, or be in 
too great a huny to finish. In finishing too soon, 
the pa[>il is frequently obliged to go again over the 
painting with large touches, in ortler to give it 
strengtli; the colour in consequence becomes heavy, 
and the shades are rarely transparent. Sketch the 
hair with black, mixed with bistre, then touch it 
in certain p;u-(s with pure black; and, in finishing, 
spread some glazings of lake and lamp-black, and 
burnt sienna, with a great deal of gum. For the 
back-ground take a large pencil, with which make 
a mixture on the palette of body-colours with m bite, 
black, ochre, and Cologne earth, to which add :i 
slight quantity of indigo. Then compare the ef- 
fect of this mixture with the back-ground of the 
model, and if it is the same, take a pencil of squir- 
rel's hair, with not too large a [loiut, and spread 
carefully round the head and shoulders the colour 
of the back-ground. Endeavour as little as possi- 
ble to alter the masses of hair, or the contour of the 
shoulders. Now use a larger jiencil for the pur- 
pose of spreading the colour with wide short etch- 
ings placed one beside the other. 

When this work has become perfectly dry, go 
over it in the same manner, but without ever pass- 
ing twice over the same spot, for fear of taking it 
oft'. Continue doing this until the ivory no longer 
appears in any jiart. If any unevenness or thick- 
ness be perceived, caused by dust falling from the 
colours, or the inequality of the work, (us soon as 
the back ground is pei-t'ectly dry) use the flat side 
of the blade of a scratcher, in order to smooth it. 
To imitate the* variety of colours in the model, 
bring forward the head, and give transparency and 
vagueness to the back-ground: make a greyish tint 
with white, bluck, and a small degree of odu'O. 



62 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



take a very little of this in a large pencil, being 
careful to pass it over a piece of paper, or upon the 
corners of the ivory, that there may not remain too 
much colour; then touch witli confidence, but 
lightlv, the parts of the back-ground -wliiclj ap- 
proach to the head. 

In consulting the model the pupil will discover 
if it be necessary to go over it again. Touch tiie 
other parts with glazings of ochre, or burnt sienna, 
always mixed witii a little white, to be able to ma- 
rage them. These last strokes must be given 
boldly, using scarcely any thing but water coloured, 
keeping as near as possible to the tint. To make 
the coat, which is blue, use indigo, lake, and a lit- 
tle white for the local tint; for tlie shades black and 
indigo, with a little gum. Add to the local tint 
rather more white and touch the lights with it, 
using for that purpose a smaller pencil. To pre- 
vent the outline of the coat from appearing too 
hard upon the back-ground, touch the edges with 
slight glazings made with the colours employed 
for both. Endeavour to avoid, particularly in fe- 
male pictures, letting the back-ground of body co- 
lour touch the extremities of the flesh; but fill up 
this space with etcliings, made with the colour ot 
the back-ground a little lightened; it is the only 
method of harmonizing the carnations with body- 
colour. In order to finish the hair, the prepara- 
tion of which is already explained, and the lights 
of which are of bodv-colour, make a mixture com- 
posed of wi»ite, indigo, red-brown, and ochre, then 
touch with it the locks of hair, where lights have 
been reserved, very slightly, and with a pencil 
nearly dry: add then a little white to the same mix- 
ture, and make use of it to give another touch to 
the masses that I'ise the most. To represent the 
small locks wliich ai'e made upon the back-ground, 
and give lightness, employ a colour rather paler 
than that ot the hair, otherwise it will appear much 
too dark upon the body-colour, and will want the 
ti'ansparency wliich is always found in nature. 
ijse of the magnifying glass. 

In miniature painting the niagnil'ying glass is of 
great use: in the first place, to find out in the mo- 
del the method of colouring, employed by the mas- 
ter intended to copy: secondly, to give to the work 
the necessary finish, and to touch accurately some 
parts of the head, and at times tlie accessories. 
What is done without the magnifier is always 
softer; make it a rule to have recourse to it oidy 
when the naked eye perceives nothing more to be 
done. 

Procure also a little bottle of gum arabic dis- 
solved in water, with a quantit)' of sugar candied 
equivalent to a fourth part of the gum; this prepa- 
ration is of the utmost necessity to mix the colours 
before putting them on the palette, for it will hap- 
pen that in painting, and above all in using body- 
colour, it will be required for some particular 
touches. 

To execute light hair. 

Draw the mass as correctly as possible, covering 
it over with a general tint, without, however, los- 
ing the contours. Make this tint with a little yel- 
low ochre, black, and a small quantity of lake; 
pi-epare the shades with black, ultramarine, and 
bistre, dot them with tinged water, preserving al- 
ways the lights, and finish tho-m as much as possi- 
ble; retaining, however, their transparency: were 
the light parts to be covered too much, they would 
become heavy when touching them with body-co- 
lour. When the hair is in a state of forwardness, 
tliat is to say, when by finishing it, it becomes veiy 
transparent and verj" silky, then take a short ca'mel- 
hair pencil, and make a mixture of yellow ochre 
and white, with which touch the light you have left 
• .done. Add a little more to this same mixture, 



in order to do the stronger lights; then touch the 
chief shades with bistre, lake with lamp-black, and 
a great deal of gums. 
To represent velvet and satins of different colours. 

Black velvet. — In order to make a black velvet, 
first cover the ivory with a local tint made of lamp- 
black, with very little gum, and as srtooth as pos- 
sible; denote the shades with black mixed with in- 
digo and a little more gum; make the lights with 
a mixture of black and blue, with half the quantity 
of gum, to which add a little brown-red and yellow 
ochre. Be very careful, with the assistance of a 
mixed tint, to blend the darker with the lighter 
shades; then add a little white to this same tint, 
and touch the lights with it as freely as possible; 
to finis!), do over the shades with mixed black, in- 
digo, precipite, and as much gum as possible, then 
pass over smoothly the reflected liglits with lake, 
Vandyke brown, or burnt sienna. 

Violet velvet. — Take some indigo and carmine to 
cover the ivoiy as equally as possible, avoiding 
with care to make thicknesses; then draw the 
shades over it with some black, carmine, and more 
gum than in the local tints; for the last touches, 
make use of carmine and white, with half the quan- 
tity of gum mixed with a little white and carmine, 
to touch the lights; then harmonize the shades 
witii a little violet precif/ite with a great deal of gum 
if the lights are too raw, smooth them over with a 
little carmine and lake, with much gum. 

Green velvet. — Green velvet is made witii a pre- 
paration of Prussian blue and red orpiment, well 
and smoothly laid on; the shades are drawn with 
black anil precipite, then some white and Prussian 
blue, with a little gum, is used to mark the lights; 
the whole is then touched with the finest sap-green. 
The strong lights may again be touched with a mix- 
ture of wliite, ultramarine, but very slightly with 
sap-green. 

Jied velvet. — To make red velvet, mix a local 
tint of carmine with a little red brown; use this 
mixture with great care, only doing it over again 
wiien thorougldy dry, that colour being veiy diffi- 
cult to use as body-colour; indicate the shades with 
precipite and gum; for the strongest parts mark the 
lights witli pure carmine, and afterwards touch 
those most brilliant with pure white, then again 
glaze them lightly with carmine. 

The models copied will show you sufficiently the 
manner in which to place the light on the velvets; 
yet it will be useful to point out that this drapery 
is only brilliant in the reflected lights, and that it 
is different in its effects from all others. 

White satin. — It is very difficult to produce the 
effect of while satin with body-colour; it would be 
belter attained by dotting the shades, the middle 
tints, and touching the lights with a little white. 
To obtain the desired effect, it is necessary, at first, 
to indicate with exactness the folds of the drapery, 
to make the silvery middle tints that are seen in 
it, take a little ultramarine, very little lake, and a 
touch of yellow ochre; for the strongest parts use 
Indian yellow, black, and ultramarine. Be parti- 
cular in making the shades of the satin partake of 
the tints of the objects around it. When thus 
sketched, prepare the lights with some white and 
a little gum, which smooth as much as possible; 
finish the middle tints with the same colour used 
to begin them, only adding a little ultramarine, and 
the most brilliant lights with white without gum, 
tlie sliades with bistre, ultramarine, and precijjite. 

Coloured satins, as well as many other silk dra^ 
peries, may be done with body-colour. 
To paint luhite feathers. 

Outline the shape and the wave with care, then 
sketch them in with ultramarine, ochre, arid a 
touch of lake; dot them lightly over, witliout at- 



]VnNlATURE PAINTING. 



tending nt first to the minutise, after which mark 
out the more massy shades, by the addition of a 
little black to the first tint; then, with care, begin 
to put in the white, and lightly indicate the little 
particles of the feather which hang over the back 
giound or the drapery; with the point of a stronger 
pf ncil mark out the lines of the body of the fea- 
ther, being careful to avoid roughness; touch the 
strongest shades with precipite, and do the lights 
with white without gum. 

To gild ill body-colotirs. 

^V^len there is an embroidery or some other 
gilding to do over a drapery or body-coloured 
ground, draw the outline of it with Roman ochre, 
and sketch with the same tint; do the middle tints 
with bistre and burnt sienna, the lights with yellow 
ochre and white; tlien dot the shades with precipi- 
td, and a little bistre; in these last touches there 
should be a great deal of gum. The more power- 
ful lights are done with white mixed with a little 
gamboge. 

To make the same gilding with dots, prepare 
them with a simple wash of pure burnt sienna, and 
do it over in the manner above mentioned. 
To execute linen, lace, and gauze. 

The difficulty of painting linen is extreme, and 
every attention ought to be paid to it. The shades 
of white draperies always partake of the colours of 
the ground and surrounding objects; white not 
being considered as a colour, it would be all black, 
were they not to be reflected by other objects fi'om 
which they borrow their colouring. Muslin, be- 
cause of its transparency, partakes much of the co- 
lour of the flesh wiiich it is near, and more parti- 
cularly when it covers it; this drapery requiring 
little light, the shades of it consequently should be 
very soit. 

Laces, blond, and gauzes are made over the ob- 
jects they are to decorate; the lights are dotted 
with brilliant white, and the under colours are 
used for the shades; it should border on tiie yel- 
low, that being the predominant colour of these 
draperies. For instance, if you wish to make a 
lace or blond trimming over a violet-coloured 
gown, and the folds of the trimming approach the 
flesh, the tint in that case should be of a red grey — 
when over the dress of a violet grey; because then 
the tint becomes mixed and partakes of the colour 
of the flesh, the gown, and the blond, the shades 
of which are grey. 

To represent pearls upon the flesh, hair, &c. 

If the pupil has a pearl necklace to make, draw 
the outline of each pearl with ultramarine, then 
make the shade with a little burnt sienna and ultra- 
marine, the reflected lights with ochre, the cast 
shadow upon the flesh with burnt sienna, softening 
the extremities witli some ultramarine: the middle 
tint on the side of the light is made with ultrama- 
rine, and the light is touched with white. Be care- 
ful to proportion the strength of the shading to the 
size of the pearl. 

When pearls are to be made either upon the hair, 
above the back-ground, or upon draperies, where 
the pearl is to be placed, first, with a wet pencil, 
take the under colour off, until the ivory, which 
answers the purpose of local tint, appear; then 
make the pearls with the tints above mentioned, 
being careful, however, particularly if they be ra- 
ther large, to make them partake in the reflected 
parts of the objects which surround them. 
Colours to be employed in sketc/iing a portrait from 
nature. 

We shall now give some rules upon the proper- 
ties and the employment of the colours, advising 
the pupil, at the same time, not to make the aj)- 
plication of them until he feels convinced that na- 
ture indicates it. Sketch boldly; place the etch- 



ings, as much as possible, at equal distances from 
each other, and make them in such a manner as to 
show the movement of the muscles, and the form 
of the features. In the shades, use some lustre and 
burnt sienna, mixed with a little precipite. The 
grey tints are done with ultramarine and precipite; 
the green tints with yellow ochre, ultramarine, 
mixed more or less with lake, to heighten them 
and make them brighter. The local tints of the 
flesh must always be chosen from tlie model, and 
serve in a greater or less degree to modify all the 
others. Observe in painting the eyes, that the 
ball being transparent, am! the light passing 
through it, ought to be rather less dark on tlie op- 
posite side to the white speck. However, endea- 
vour not to commit the fault, so common to all be- 
ginners in painting from nature — that of never giv- 
ing sufficient vigour to the eye-balls. In Vandyke, 
particularly in hisportraitsof women and children, 
the colour of the eye-balls is much stronger than 
any of the shades of the head: this is one of the 
means employed, with success, to give, at the same 
time, expression and softness to tlie physiognomy. 
I'o make the pupil or i)lack spot, make use of 
black, and a ]X\.X.\& precipit?. The edge of Oie eye- 
lid is made with bistre, mixed with ved precipite. 
If the person, whose portrait is painting, has a 
florid complexion, replace tlie bistre with yellow 
ochre mixed with lake. 

The white of the eye is made with ulti-amarine, 
pure netu- the ball ; in the corners, add a little 
ochre and lake; in men's heads, employ on the 
shaded side a small quantity of bistre, black, and 
precipite; which is heightened, if necessary, with 
a glazing of burnt sienna. Observe, that the setting 
of the eyes towards the extremities cf the lids, and 
the lid itself, is generally of a violet tint, which 
must, however, be heightened with a little yellow 
ochre, and to which vigour may be given, in cer- 
tain heads, by a touch of bistre, mixed v/ith preci- 
pite. The lower part of the face is almost always 
of a greenisli shade, mixed with lake. The shadow 
cast by the head upon the neck, is nearly of the 
same tint, although stronger and warmer in certain 
parts, which will he discovered by consulting the 
model. 

The chin in women is nearly of the same tint 
as the cheeks in tlie parts most highly coloured. 
It is the same in men, with this exception, that it 
is of a stronger tint, and there must be added to it, 
as well as to all the lower part of the iiwe, a greater 
quantity of ultramarine, to indicate the using of the 
beard. The mouth is the greatest difficulty for all 
beginners, not so much for the colouring, as for the 
form and expression. They generally place it too 
far from the nose, in consequence of ttie serious 
and wearied expression frequently tobefound in the 
countenance of the model while sitting. In endea- 
vouring to remedy this evil, they raise tlie corners, 
and believe by this means that they produce a 
smile, which is never natural but when the eyes, 
nose, and all the muscles of the face partake of 
this expression. The upper lip ought always to be 
of a stronger tint, but of a less brilliant colour than 
the under one. 'I'hey are, generally, both of a very 
lively colour, and modelled in young persons, in a 
determined manner, while in old men, the relaxa- 
tion of their forms, and the loss of their original 
colour, scarcely allows them to be distinguished 
from the local tint of the flesh. The corners of the 
mouth are made with a mixture of carmine, lake, 
ultramarine, aud raw sienna. The last shadow of 
the under lip is made with nearly, the same tint, 
adding to it a little touch of bistre. Observe that 
the reflect of the chin is of a brighter and warmer 
tint than that of the top of the cheek, particularly 
where the bosom is uncovered. It ought, in eveiy 



64 



UNR-EnSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



other instance, ■without losinsj the tint of tlie 
flesh, to partake more or less of that of the drapery 
wJiich siirrniiiids it. 

When hc|i;innin^ the hair, ohservelhat its shade 
upon tlie flesh h;is ahvars a warmer tint, with a 
hliiish edge. Tlierc is idso a greyisli tint at the 
rise of tlie hair upon the foi'ehead, which must he 
indicated, otherwise tlie flesh will appear too ab- 
ruptly cut. It is the Same with the eye-brows, 
which a])pcar, at tlie extremity of the temple, of 
a pinker colour, and must be blended with tlie 
fliesh at the opposite extremity by a greyish tint. 
Many painters use too much lake at the extremity 
of the nose; it produces a disagreeable effect to 
the sigiit, and destroys the charm of the portrait. 
To avoid this, sketch this part lightly with the lo- 
cal tint which nature presents, and model it ^\^\ill 
tints more or less grey. lu portraits of women, 
(he middle tints on the side of the light, which are 
perceived upon the bosom and arir.s, are made 
with a slight mixtux-e of oclu-e, ultramarine, and 
Like; 01) tlie shaded side add yellow ochre, some- 
times red precifjit" and bistre, in particular where 
the back ground is deeply coloured. The local 
tint of the hands ouglitto be the same as that of 
tlie flesh; the nails are rather more violet; the 
. ends of tiie fingers pink. 

The shado^V cast by the hand upon the flesh, is 
made with brown mixed with ultramarine and yji-t?- 
cipitP. The cast shadow is alwavs stronger than 
tlie shade of tlie fingers or tlie hand tliat occasions 
it, and must always l)e separated from it by a re- 
flected light. Generally speaking, the reflected 
])arts ought to have more strength than the middle 
tints, but less than the shades. 

To adjust ilie drapery. 

We shall now proceed to the accessor, as of a 
portrait: these consist of the drapery, the back- 
ground, and many objects which may be introduc- 
ed and infinite!}' varied .according to the subject 
represented. They should be subordinate in co- 
lour, light, and eft'eot, to the head, wiiich must, in 
preser'ing the same energy and the same truth, 
unceasinglj' attr.act the sight and observation. 

The manner of adjusting the dr.apery contri- 
butes more, than is generally believed by porti-ait 
painters, to give animation and character, and 
even expression, to their figures, llaphael, the 
model of perfection in every style, has taught us 
tiiflt the draperies are intended to cover, but not to 
hide, the forms. The large folds ought always to 
be placed on the largest parts of tlie body. JJ'the j 
nature of tlie drapery requires small folds, give 
them but little relief, "in order th.at they may yield 
in effect to those which indicate the principal 
p.arts. Denote the curved folds at the bending of 
the joints, and it should be the form underneath 
which determines those of the drapery. Place 
also larger folds upon the projecting parts, than 
vipon tlie receding ones, and be careful never to 
indicate two folds of the same size and form be- 
side each other. 

All the gi-eat masters succeeded in expressing 
by the iirapery, not only tlie extict form of their 
models at the moment taken, but even discovered, 
by their Scientific execution, the position in which 
tliey were placed the instant before. In order to 
produce this effect, study it in natui-e,- never be- 
gin to dress until the ])riiicipal lines of it are 
drawn from the person sitting: afterwards it may 
be adjusted upon a lay figure, the immobility 
of which will allow the effect to be more easily 
represented. This machine, made use of by al- 
;nost all painters, I'esembles a skeleton in its con- 
struction; it even expresses the movements, by the 
assistance of halls placed in tiie joints: it is stuffed 
Mall liorsc-liiur, covci-e'J tvith knitting, and is 



made in imitation of the interior forms of the hu« 
man figure. After dressing it in the drapery in- 
tended to copy, i)lace it exactly in tiie same situa- 
tion and the same attitude as those of the model. 
Then, attentively examine if the folits it offers re- 
semble those which were ]n'e3ented by nature. If 
this be not the case, remedy it as much as possi- 
ble, by making this figure perform some move- 
ments of the body aufl arms, and then, ^lightly 
with the finger') arranging the folds into which the 
draper}' falls in the most natural manner, and fol- 
lowing, as far as ])ossible, the rules just given. 

Tiie execution of the draperies has great influ- 
ence on the harmony of a poilrait, not only fi'om 
the colour and variety of titits, but also from the 
liLcoming arrangement of the folds, the distribu- 
tion of the light, and the blending of the light with 
the shade. I'here are colours that agree together, 
others that are injurious to each other; in general, 
strong contrasts, produced by opposing colours, or 
blight lights and strong shades abruptly brought 
together, offend the sight, and are contnuy to the 
laws of Irarmony. A portrait-painter, notwith- 
standing the very little latitude usually allowed 
him, ought, however, to endeavour to follow these 
lawsms near as he possibly can, and. for this pur- 
pose, avail himself of the advantage which he can 
obtain from the arrangement of the folds, the 
chiarrj oscuro, and the expression of the reflected 
lights. 

To execute the back ground. 

In the composition of the back-ground, the opi- 
nion of the artist is usually of much importance in 
the mind of the person painted. The colours em- 
ployed in this will offer many resources for giving 
effect to the head and drapeiy, and to correct the 
general aspect of them, when that is necessary. If 
the portrait require colour and relief, and the xi- 
gourofitis not increased, for fear of destroying 
the resemblance, then make a bright back-ground, 
of a grayish tint mixed with blue: this will con- 
tribute to bring it forward, and make it appear 
more animated. If, on the contrary, the head be 
of too high a colour, by the assistance of a warm 
and deep-coloured back-ground, an aspect may be 
given it more resembling that of nature. However 
simple may he the back-ground it is thought right 
to adopt, it must on no account be of an equal 
shade throughout, and it is highly essential, by 
the variety of the primitive tints and glazings by 
which they are covered, to produce some differ- 
ence in the tints, particularly around the head. 
This will give space and uncertainty, detach the 
head, and give it roundness. 

I'rimilive colours and their combinations. 

We have confined ourselves to indicating 12 
combinations of the principal colours of the flesh, 
and, in i-eality, Me might confine ourselves to 4, 
for with black, blue, red, yellow, and reserving 
the lights upon the ivory, we might succeed in 
making all the mixtures necessary for miniature 
painting. 

The history of the fine arts teaches that the emi- 
nent masters executed for a length of time with 
only red, blue, and yellow, which are the three 
primitive colours, black being oidy the ahstraction 
from light, and white the light itself; A le:u-ne(l 
German, named !M.ayer, has calculated that with 
the three primitive colours, modified more or less 
with black and white, we might produce bv their 
different combinations, eight hundreil and nineteen 
tints. We have, then, reason to bL-lieve that the 
Greeks, who have left us such beautiful master- 
pieces in sculpture, had reached an equal <legrce 
of perfection in painting. 
Uiscoverij of nexv substances by mrxlern painters^ 

jNIodern painters have discovertd in tialurc sub* 



MLSIATURE PAINTING. 



65 



stances which presented, ready prepared, the same 
mixture which the ancients wei-e obliged to seek 
for upon their palettes, have increased their num- 
ber of materials for paintiu^;, and have furnished 
artists Avith newer and speedier means of acquiring 
perfection in their art. 

There have, however, been painters, who, since 
these discoveries, have thoun;ht they might dispense 
v'ith making use of them. Santerre, a French art- 
ist, living at the commencement of the last century, 
■was one of these. He voluntarily confined himself 
to the five colours used by the ancients. Notwith- 
standing this, his productions were remarked for 
their soft and pleasing colouring ; the only sub- 
stances he employed were ultramarine, massicot, 
red, brown, French white, and Polish black. This 
proves, that it is not the great variety of tints upon 
the palette which produces fine colouring, but the 
manner of employing them. 
• JManiier of laying the body colours on the palette. 
When the pupil is desirous of renewing the co- 
lours upon the palette, or of putting on fresh, re- 
raember, that ochres, raw sienna, brown, bistre, 
black, vermilion, and ultramarine, require to be 
ground again, and to have gum: habit can alone 
give a just idea of the degree necessary. Lake, 
carmine lake, and precipite, are generally sold with 
gum; experience will teach whether in sufRcient 
quantity, but there is no harm in grinding them as 
much as possible. 

In laying the body-colour on the palette, put a 
large quantity of each, and let there be only three 
or four at most on one side of the palette, iu such a 
manner as to leave room for the mixtures. Grind 
them as much as possible, and add a moderate quan- 
tity of gum. We only make use of light white for 
miniature painting, the white of lead being subject 
to become black from tlie effect of the air. Put 
some of this white into two ditferent places: one 
of these quantities, with much less gum, will serve 
to go a second time over the lights which are pre- 
pared with the other, in order to render them more 
brilliant. Some painters, who wish to give more 
solidity to the back ground and draperies in body- 
colours, put more gum in the first sketch; this pre- 
caution is unnecessary, when the ivory is properly 
prepared; but, in order to succeed in painting bo- 
dy colours, they must not have too much gum. 
\Vhen the pupil has finished, and has been able to 
express all that he was desirous of executing, with 
the assistance of glazings of a warm tint, he may 
make that grey and earthy aspect, wliich it so often 
presents, disappear. 
JDifferent substances used in immature painting. 

Miniature painting can be executed upon several 
kinds of white substances, such as marble, alabas- 
ter, and even egg-shell: artists have succeeded in 
preparing and softening the latter by means of hu- 
midity; they may then be easily spread upon a 
jjate of metal, or a thick sheet of paste-board, after 
■which tliey are susceptible, as well as ivory, of re- 
ceiving the preparation already explained. The 
paper and Bristol paste-board, used for the aqua- 
relles, cannot be chosen too fine or too even; as they 
then require no other preparation tlian that of the 
agate- stone. Vellum, which must be carefully 
«tretched upon paste-board, or a plate of metal, 
may be lightly pounced. 

ivory has generally been adopted in preference 
to any of these substances, because it is subject to 
fewer inconveniences, and in its local tint comes 
uearer to that of the flesh itself; and because it is 
capable of receiving a higher finish, and of being 
executed upon with greater vigour, and, conse- | 
quently, produces works of longer duration. It | 
ought to be chosen extremely while, without appa- j 
reut veins, very even, aud cut iu very lliin sheets; ! 



j because, in proportion to its thickness, its opacity 
I will give it a yellow tint, when otherwise, if it be 
I transparent, the whiteness of the paper or paste- 
I board it is placed upon, will penetrate and increase 
I that which is natural to it. 

Choice of brushes. 

It is extremely important to know how to make 
a judicious choice of pencils: those for the back 
ground ought to be square at the end, short and 
thick; they must be dipt in water, and then be 
tried upon paper to see if they remain united, and 
if there be not one hair longer than the others. 
The pencils of squirrel's hair, made for sketching, 
ought not to be too long, their points should be 
round and firm. The sable pencils must be full of 
hair; the colour will not then dry so quickly, and 
in consequence render the touch larger and softer; 
the points should be firm, supple, and elastic. In 
order to be assured of this, wet them, and tuni 
them in every direction upon tlie finger, or upon 
paper: if they make but one point, it may then be 
concluded that they are good; if, on the conti'ary, 
they do not unite well, or that some hairs are 
longer than others, in that case they are good for 
notliing. The pupil may, however, still make use 
of a pencil too pointed, (provided the hair remains 
united) by cutting them with scissors, hut be very 
careful not to do it too mucii. A surer method'of 
making a proper point is by wetting it, and pass- 
ing it rapidly through the flame of a wax taper. 

Most miniature painters have a habit of passing 
their pencils between the lips while painting, in 
order to unite the hair and make a good point; if 
there be too much water, they, by this means, draw- 
it from the pencils, and leave only suflicient to ena- 
ble them to employ the colour with softness. There . 
is no fear of this being injurious, for all colours 
used in miniature painting, when prepared (except 
the orpiment, which is a poison), have no bad 
qualities, or disagreeable taste. This last men- 
tioned dangerous colour does not make a part of 
the flesh palette, therefore it will be better to era- 
ploy this method for the purpose of making the 
work even, and prevent its being too much loaded 
with colour. In painting with body colour, gather 
only the hair of the pencil, and if there be too 
much colour, discharge it upon paper, or upon the 
palette itself. In short, it will only be after hav- 
ing bought both bad and good pencils, that the pu- 
pil will be able to discover tliose most favourable 
to his own pai-ticular manner. 



TO PAINT ON VELVET. 

Materials required. 

Best •B'hite cotton velvet, or velveteen. Box of 
water colours. Assielte range, or saucer of pink 
dye. Towne's alumina. Velvet scrubs. Fitch 
pencils of different sizes. Small saucers to con- 
tain the diluted colours. 

Subjects for tlie same. 

Flowers," as the rose, demand peculiar attention: 
likewise fine ripe fruits, lai'ge and beautiful shells, 
and the charming tints of tiie feathered tribe, &e. 

Animals, especially the lion, tiger, leopard, &c. 
may be imitated with great fidelity. In landscapes 
choose from artic scenery, without attending to 
the minuteness of figures. 

In the selection of subjects, ever prefer those 
that admit of the broadest light and shade; attempt 
first tlie most simple, as a flower or two: tlie faci- 
lity with which they may be completed will pre- 
li?.re and encourage for greater works. 
.appropriate colojirs. 

Reds. — Lake, carmine, vermilion, light red, and 
assiellc rouge. 

F 2 



66 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



i?7/(e».— Prussian, indii^o, Antwerp, verditcr. 

Yelloivs. — Gamboge, yellow and Iloman oclire. 

Terra <le sienna, burnt and u., burnt. — Umber, 
do. do. — Vandyke brown. — BisU-c.— Lamp-black. 
— Indian ink. 

Compound colours. 

JVeiitral tint, conii)Ounded of lake, indigo, and 
lamp-black. 

Green, compounded of Prussian blue and gam- 
boge in various shades, or with raw terra de sienna, 
or with burnt terra de sieima. 

Purple, of Prussian blue, or indigo, with lake 
or carmine. 

Orange, of gamboge with carmine, Roman ochre 
•with vermilion, yellow ochre with red lead, the 2 
siennas with light I'ed. 

Brown, of umber, lake and lamp-black, differ- 
ent shades, (a deep shade) of lake or carmine, with 
lamp-black or Indian ink. 

Directions to paint on velvet. 

The only preparation velvet i-equires is, the 
making it perlectly smooth by passing over the 
back of it a wai-m iron. 

Fitch pencils should be cut almost to a point, in 
the same manner as the velvet scrubs. Except for 
very large pieces, the former are preferable to the 
latter, being sufficiently strong to force the colour 
into the velvet, without injuring the foil. 

The subject being chosen, it will be requisite 
for tliose who are not proficient, to trace in the 
same by attaching it to tlie velvet, and liolding both 
against a window, making a neat and faint outline 
•with a black lead pencil; but as velvet does not ad- 
mit the same correction as paper, great care must 
be taken at first to obtain a correct outline, by 
tracing the subject witii any smooth round point; 
the impression thus ■will also be left on the vel- 
•vet. 

Dilute the colours with alumini, except the pink 
dye, carmine, and lake; with those use lemon 
juice, particularly the pink dye, wiiich is pi'efera- 
ble to any other colour for the red rose. 

In diluting the colours make them of a creamy 
consistence; in the same manner prepare in sau- 
cers the requisite compounds from the primitive 
colours. 

The assiette rouge is an exception to this direc- 
tion. With a fitch and lemon juice wash some of 
it from the saucer into smaller ones, in shades 
from the faintest tinge to tlve deepest hue of ihe 
rose. 

Lay in the drawing with the faintest colouring. 
By this means the design will be seen at one view, 
and so correct any little inaccuracy by the subse- 
quent shades. Observe in this stage to rub the 
colour well into tlie velvet with the scrubs or large 
fitcher, then let the woi'k dry, and if the velvet is 
not well saturated witii the colour, repeat the ope- 
ration, but by no means in this stage attempt a 
great depth of colouring. 

Proceed with the shadows, lay them with a fitch 
forming the flowers, or any other subject, as accu- 
rately as possible, softening off the edges of tlie 
shadows when necessary, according to the size of 
the design, either with a scrub or fitch, before tlie 
v.'ork gets too dry. 

Before proceeding any further, the drawing 
should be well examined ; the shadows deepened 
and tlie light heightened as they may require; cor- 
rect the ■whole, and add tlie finishing tints; then 
A'ein the leaves. 

For large flowers, especially the rose, damp the 
b.ick of the velvet moderately to assist the colour- 
ing through; wherever there is a large surface lo 
be covered, this mode will be found advantageous. 

Towards the extremitiesof the design and form- 
ing any part ol the outline, do not let the fitch be 



too full of colour, but rather dryer than the othef 
jiarts; attention to this point will preserve the 
drawing perfectly neat and correct. 

Be careful that the scrubs and fitches be kept 
perfectly clean, otherwise they will injure the bril- 
liancy of the drawing, a fault it will be iu some 
cases impossible to correct on velvet. 

Have always ready some clean fitches to take off 
any super-abundance of colour, also for blending 
the colour while wet. 

To paint on silks, satins, &c. 

Wlien the outline is made, lay on a wash of isin- 
glass with care, to take away the glare of the satin, 
otherwise the colours will not work freely. Melt 
the isinglass thin in very clear water, over the fire, 
otherwise it will discolour the satin, and spoil the 
colotirs. 

The lights are to be made by a small tincture of 
the coloiu- of the intended flower, mixed with the 
flake white, so as just to make a degree from the 
colour of the satin; if white, or of any other colour, 
to be mixed proportionably to the colour of the 
flower. If a blue flower, use a very small ([ua'.*tity 
of bice or verditer with the white, using less of it 
as the shades gi-ow darker; and in the most dark, 
use indigo alone, it being by that time rendered 
opaque enough; but take care not to lay tlie colours 
on too thick, otherwise they will crack. A little 
white sugar-candy will be found necessary, when 
mixed with the gum water, as a preventive to 
cracking. If a flower happens to be of so deep a 
colour as not to admit of any pure white in the 
lightest of tlie parts, a sort of priming of white 
should be laid on; after which, when diy, begin 
witii the ground-colour of the flower, and proceed 
gradually with the shades, with any selected ex- 
amples, peculiarly chosen from natwe, for that 
purpose. 



LITHOGRAPHY. 

To lanie and engrave upon stone. 

The stones should be of a calcareous nature, 
pure, hard, and of a fine grain. They must imbibe 
both moisture and grease with equal avidity. The 
chalk is a composition of grease, wax, shell-lac, 
soap, and black. The lidiographic ink is com- 
posed of the same materials, but rather softer. 

The stone must be rubbed down with fine sand, 
to a perfect level, after which it is ready to receive 
the drawing: a weak solution of nitric acid should 
be thrown over the stone. This operation will 
slightly corrode its surface, and dispose it to im- 
bibe moisture, with more facility. AVhile the 
stone is still wet, a cylinder of about three inches 
in diameter, an<l covered with common printer's 
ink, should be rolled over the whole surface of the 
stone. While tlie wet part refuses to take the ink, 
the chalk, being greasy, will take a portion of it 
from the roller. The stone is then ready for 
printing. 

The press consists of a box drawn by a wheel, 
under a wooden scraper, pressing on it with gre.-it 
power. After the first impression, the stone must 
be wetted afresh, again rolled over with the cylin- 
der, drawn under the scraper, and so on. 

Tiie same process is employed for ink drawings, 
except that tlie solution of aqua-fortis must be 
sti'onger, and the Y)rinting ink stifter. 

Imitations of wood cuts are produced by corer- 
ing the stone with lithographic ink, and scraping 
out the intended lights. As the finer touches may 
be added with a hair pencil, prints far superior to 
wood cuts may be obtained, but the chief advan- 
tage of wood cuts, th»t of printing them at the 
same time with the text of the book, is lost. 



LITHOGRAPHY. 



67 



Engraving upon stone is performed by polish- 
ing the stone, and covering it with a thin coating 
of gum and black. 

Tlie part intended for the drawing must be 
scraped out, and wlien finished, of course, it ap- 
pears white, instead of black. The thicker lines, 
as in copper, must be cut deeper, and when the 
whole IS fiuis.ied, the stone should be rubbed with 
linseed oil, which not being able to penetrate the 
coffting of gum, will only touch the stone, where 
it is scraped away. 

Laurent's new method of drmvimr in stone. 
Take the outline of the original design upon 
transparent paper, by tracing all tlie lines of the 
original with a dry point; the outline is then glued 
by its edges on a board, and there is spread over it, 
with a piece of fine linen, al tolerably hard paste, 
formed of lithographic ink, dissolved in essence of 
turpentine. The outline is then rubbed hard willi 
'a piece of clean linen, until the linen ceases to 
have a black tint. Tiie outline is then transferred 
to the stone by means of tiie press, placmg in a 
vertical paper press the stone and the outline in 
contact, laying upon the latter five and twenty 
sheets of paper, wetted in water with some solu- 
tion of calcined muriate of lime. Upon these last 
sheets are placed large plates of paper, about an 
inch thick, to prevent injury from a tliick and [ 
straight plank, which is to be laid over them. 
Pressure is now applied for one hour, when the 
outline will be found adhering to the stone. The 
paper is to be removed by hot water and the de- 
sign will be left on the stone, which is now wasli- 
ed with cold-water till no trace of the paper i-e- 
mains. 

Thenard and Blainville-s lithographic ink. 
Soap one-fourth; mutton suet one-half; yellow 
wax one part; mastic in tears one-half, and as 
much lamp black as necessary. 

Three different methods of printing from stone. 
In the chemical printing office at Vienna, three 
difterent methods are employed, but that termed 
in relief, is most frequently used. This is the 
general mode of printing music. 

The second method is the sunk, which is pre- 
ferred for prints. 

The third method is the fiat, that is, neither 
raised nor sunk. This is useful for imitating 
drawings, particularly where the impression is in- 
tended to resemble crayons. For printing and 
engraving in this method, a block of marble is 
cmployect, or any other calcareous stone that is 
cosily corroded, and will take a good polish. It 
siiould be two inches and a half thick, and of a 
size proportioned to tlie purpose for which it is 
intended. A close texture is considered as advan- 
tageous. When the stone is well polished and 
dry, the first step is to trace the drawing, notes, 
or letters to be printed with a pencil; the design 
is not very conspicuous, but it is rendered so l)y 
passing over the strokes of the pencil a paiticular 
ink, of whicli a great secret is made. This ink is 
made of a solution of lac in potash, coloured with 
the soot from biu-ning wax, and appears to be the 
most suitable black for the purpose. When the 
design has been gone over wilii this ink, it is left 
to dry about two hours. After it is diy, nitric acid, 
more or less diluted, according to the degree of 
relief desired, is poured on tiie stone, whicli cor- 
rodes every ])art of it, except when defended by 
tlie resinous ink. The block being washed with 
Water, ink, similar to that commonly used for 
printing, is distributed over it by printer's balls; 
a sheet of paper disposed on a frame is laid on it, 
andtliisis \)ressed down by means of a copper 
roller or cojiper press. 
I'he sunk, or ciialk method, differs from that I 



termed relief, only in having stone much more 
corroded by the nitric acid. In the flat method, 
less nitric acid is used. It is not to be supposed 
that the surface is quite plain in this way, but tlie 
lines are very little raised so that they can scarcely 
be perceived to stand above tlie ground, but by tlie 
finger. 

Process for printing designs with porcelain plates. 
Lithography oilers to draughtsmen the means 
of multiplying original desin-ns at pleasure; but it 
carries with it great difficulties for the impression. 
If the stones ai-e defective, if the workman is not 
clever and has not had long experience, the de- 
signs are speedily impaired. It is then generally 
to be wished, that lithography might be rendered 
more simple, that the traits may not grow larger, 
and that it may be easy to clean the parts of the 
stone not occupied by the drawing. M. Langlois, 
porcelain manufecturer at Biiyeux, lias discovered 
a peculiar composition which gives liim the me- 
tliod of tracing with the pencil, and of fixing by a 
second dressing, designs on the porcelain plates 
covered with enamel, and of rendering the trailjs 
suftlciently rough to retain the ink in the impres- 
sion, whilst the enamel is washed that surrounds 
them. By this method proofs may be multiplied 
to infinity, without impairing the designs, and 
traits extremely sharp, fine grains, aud even smooth 
tints may be obtained. 

To apply lithography to wood engraving. 

The stone should be covered with a fat varnisii, 
wliich may easily be removed with an engraver's 
point. Then let the stone be hollowed out or bit, 
as copper is done, with aqua fortis, s5 as to pro- 
duce, iiowever, a contrary efiect, for the traces of 
the design, instead of being hollow, are here in re- 
lief. The traces should be afterwards worked u;» 
and repaired, and tlie hollow part dug slill deeper, 
so as to be out«of the reach of the printer's ball. 
In this state, tlie stone will resemble an engraving 
on wood, and may, in case of necessity, answer 
the same purpose, but it would not have the same 
solidity. It may be used, iiowever, as a matrix 
for casting metal plates, presenting the adverse of 
the impression, and vvitli the relief being now hol- 
low, may themselves serve to cast new matrixes, 
in every respect similar to the stone. 15y this 
means, an endless number of impressions may be 
taken, because the materials themselves may be 
multiplied. 

The invention is of advantage, not only for vig- 
nettes and figures to be inserted in the text, but 
also for imitating exactly Tiirkish or Chinese cha- 
racters, kc. It may also be applied to printing of 
paper. 

To make lithographic pencils. 

JMix the following ingredients: 

Soap 3 ounces, tallow 2 ounces, wax 1 ounce. 

"When melted smooth, add ^ sufficient quantity 
of lamp black, and pour it into moulds. 
To take impressions on paper from designs made 
in stone. 

The stone should be close grained, and the 
drawing or writing should be made with a pen' 
diiiped in ink, formed of a solution of lac, in leys 
of pure soda, to which some soap and lamp black 
should be added, for colouring. Leave it to har- 
den for a few days ; then take impressions in the 
following manner: Dip the surface in water, then 
nab it with printer's ink and printer's balls. The 
ink will stick to the desig-n and not to the stone, 
and the impressions may be taken with wet paper, 
by a rolling or screw press, in the ordinary way. 
Several hundred copies may be taken from the 
same design, in this simple manner. 

Cheap siibstiliUe for Uthograf liic stone. 

Paste-board, or card* paper, covtred with anar- 



68 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



gillo-calcarcous raixtiire, has been employed witli 
complete success, and effects a great saviiifj. The 
material is to be reduced to a powder, and laid on 
V el: it sets, of course, immediately, and may be 
applied to a more substantial article tlian paper, 
and upon a more extensive scale than the inventor 
has \et carried it to. Tliis coating receives tlie 
ink or crayon in the same way tiiat the stone does, 
and funushes impi'essions precisely in the same 
manner. 



TO PAINT AND STAIN GLASS AND POR- 
CELAIN. 

To paint upon elass is an art which has gene- 
rally appeared difficult; yet there is no represen- 
tation more elegant than that ot'a mezzotinto paint- 
ed in this manner, for it gives all the softness that 
can be desired in a picture, and is easy to work, 
as there ai-e no outliaes to draw, nor any shades to 
make. 

The prints are those done in mezzotinto: for 
their shades being rubbed down on the glass, the 
several lines, which represent the shady part of any 
common print, are by this means blended together, 
and appear as soft and united as in any drawing of 
Indian ink. 

Provide such mezzotintos as are wanted; cut off 
the margin; then get a piece of fine crown glass, 
the size of the print, and as flat and free from knots 
and scratches as possible; clean the glass, and lay 
some Venice-turpentine, quite thin and smooth, on 
one side, witli a brush of hog's hair. Lay the print 
flat in water, and let it remain on the surface till it 
sinks, it is then enough; take it carefully out, and 
(lab it between some papers, that no water may be 
seen, yet so as to be damp. 

Next lay the damp print with its face uppermost 
Upon a flat tabic; then hold the glass over it, with- 
out toucliing the turpentine, till it is exactly even 
■with tlie print, let it fall gently on it. Press the 
glass dowu carefully with the fingers in several 
parts, so that the turpentine may stick to the print; 
aflSr which take it up, then holding the glass to- 
wards you, press the prints with the fingers, from 
the centre towards Uie edges, till no blisters re- 
main. 

When this is done, wet the back of the paint witli 
a sponge, till tlie paper will rub oft' with tlie fingers; 
tlien rub it gently, and the white paper will roll oi^', 
leaving the impression only upon tlie glass; llie.n 
let it dry, and, wi'^i a camel's hair pencil, dipped 
in oil of turpentine, wet it all over, and it will be 
perfectly /transparent and fit for painting. 
Im/jroved method. 

The first thing to be done, in order to paint, or 
fitain glass in the modern way, is to design, and 
even colour the \*hole subject on paper. Then 
choose such pieces of glass as are clear, even, and 
smooth, and proper to receive the several parts, 
i'l-oceed to distribute the design itself, or the pa- 
per it is drawn on, into pieces suitable to those of 
the glass; always tuking care that the glasses may 
join in the contours of the figures, and the folds of 
the draperies; that the carnations and other finer 
parts may not be impaired by the lead with which 
tjhe pieces are to be joined together. The distri- 
bution being made, mark all the glasses, as well 
as papers, that they may be known ag<iin: which 
done, apply every part of ilie design upon the glass 
intended for it; and copy or tj'auifer tlie design 
Upon this glass with the black colour diluted in 
gum-waier, by tracing and following all tl^ lines 
siad strokes that ap^K-'ar tiirough theglai*, witli the 
Jjoint of a pencil. 

W'li.a Uiiise strokes are well dried, which will 



be in about two days; fthe work being only in 
black and white,) give it a slight wash over with 
urine, gum-arabic, and a little black; and repeat 
this several times, according as the shades are de- 
sired to be heightened, witli this precaution, never 
to apply a new wash till the former is sufiiciently 
dried. This done, the lights and risings are given 
by rubbing oft' the colour in the respective places 
with a wooden jioint, or bv the handle of the pencil. 

The colours are used w itb gum-w.ater, the same 
as in painting in miniature, taking care to apply 
them lightly, for fear of eifacing the outlines of 
the design; or even, for the greater security, to 
apply them on the other side; especially yellow, 
which is veiy pernicious to the other colours, by 
blending therewith. And here too, as in pieces ot 
black and white, particular regard must always be 
had not to lay colom- on colour, till such time aa 
the former is well dried. 

When the painting of all the pieces is finished, 
they are carried to the furnace to anneal, or to bake 
the colours. 

Colours propel' to paint loith iipon glass. 

The several sorts of colours, ground in oil for 
this purpose, may be had at all the capital colour 
shops, fie. 

Whites. — Flake white, podium. 

Bkicks. — Lamp-L-lack, i vory-black. 

Broxons. — Spanish brown, umber, spruce ochre, 
Dutch pink, orpiment. 

JUues. — Blue bice, Prussian blue. 

Jiecls. — Rose pink, vermilion, red lead, Indian 
red, lake cinnabar. 

I'eUoies. — English pink, raasticot, English ochre, 
Saunders blue, smalt. 

Greens. — Verdigris, terra vert, verditer. 

The ultramarine for blue, and the carmine for 
red, are rather to be bouglit in powders, as in that 
state they are less apt to dry; and as the least tint 
of these will give the picture a cast, mix up what 
is wanted for present use with a drop or two of nut 
oil upon the pallet with the pallet-knife. 

To get the colour out, prick a hole at the bottom 
of each bladder, and press it till there is enough 
upon the pallet for use. 

Then lay a sheet of white paper on the table, 
and taking the picture in the li.ft hand, with the 
turpentine side next you, hold it sloping, (the bot- 
tom resting on the white paper), and all outlines 
and tints of the prints will be seen on the glass; 
and nothing remains but to lay on the colours pro- 
per for the different parts, as follow: — 
To use the colours. 

As the lights and shades of the picture open, lay 
tlie lighter colours first on the lighter parts of the 
print, aTid the darker over the shaded parts; and 
having laid oh the brighter colours, it is not mate- 
rial if the darker sorts are laid a little over them; 
for the first colour will hide those laid ou after- 
wards. For example: — 

lieus. — Lay ou the first red lead, and shade with 
lake or carmine. 

Ydloxvs.~-T\\G lightest yellow may be laid on 
first, and shaded with Dutch pink. 

Blues. — Blue bice, or ultramarine, used for the 
lights, may be shaded with indigo. 

G;etrts. — 'Lay on verdigris first, and then a mix- 
ture of that and Dutch pink. This green may be 
lightened by an addition of Dutch pink. 

When any of these are too strong, they may be 
lightened, by mixing white with them upon the 
pallet; or darken them as much as rerpiired by 
mixing tiiem w it!i a deeper shade of the same co- 
lour. 

> The colours must not be laid on ton thick; but, 
if troublesome, thin theni before using them, -^itb 
a little turpentiue oiii 



TO PAIXT ON GLASS. 



69 



Take oare to have a pencil for each colour, and 
never use that which has been used for green with 
any other colour, without first washing it well with 
turpentine oil, as that colour is apt to appear pre- 
dominant wlien the colours are dry. 

Wash all tlie pencils, aftei- using, i« turpentine 
oil. 

The glass, when painted, must stand three or 
four days free from dust, before it is i'ramed. 
To (Iraiv oil glass. 

Grind lamp-black with gum water and some 
common salt. With a pen or hair pencil, draw 
the design on the glass, and afterwards shade and 
paint it with any of the following compositions. 
Colour for grounds on glass. 

Take iron filings and Dutch yellow beads, equal 
parts. If a little red cast is wanted, add a little 
copper filings. With a steel mulier grind these 
together, on a thick and strong copper plate, or on 
porphyiy. Then add a little gum arable, borax, 
common salt, and clear water. Mix these with a 
little fluid, and put the composition in a phial for 
use. 

AVhen it is to be used there is nothing to do but, 
with a hair pencil, to lay it ([uite flat on the design 
drawn the day before; and, having left this to dry 
also for another day, with the quill of a turkey, the 
nib unsplit, heighten the lights in the same manner 
as with crayons on blue paper. Wlienever there 
are more coats of the above composition put one 
upon another, the shade will naiaially be stronger; 
and, when this is finished, lay the colours for gar- 
ments and complexions. 

To prepare lake for glass. 

Grind the lake with water impregnated with gum 
and salt: then make use of it with the brush. The 
shading is operated by laying a double, treble, or 
more coats of the colour, where it is wanted 
darker. 

Blue pic'^ple for the same. — Make a compound of 
lake and indigo, ground together with gum and 
salt water; and use it as directed in the preceding 
article. 

Green. — Mix with a proportionable quantity of 
gamboge, ground together as above. 

Yellow. — Grind gamboge with salt water oidy. 

IVhite. — Heighten much the white parts with a 
pen. 

To trajisfer engrarniigs on glass. 

Metallic colours prepared and mixed with fat 
oil are applied to the stamp on the engraved brass. 
Wipe with the hand in the manner of the printers 
of coloured plates; take a proof on a sheet of silver 
paper, which is immediately transferred on the ta- 
Dlet of glass destined to be painted, being careful 
to turn the coloured side against the glass; it ad- 
heres to it, and as soon as the copy is quite dry, 
take off the superfluous paper by washing it with a 
sponge; there will remain only the colour trans- 
ferred to the glass; it is fixed by passing the glass 
tlirough the ovens. 

The basis of all the colours employed in painting 
on glass are oxidated metallic substances. 

In painting on glass it is necessary that the mat- 
ter should be very transparent. 
I'o prepare metallic calces, and precipitates of 
gold, 

A solution of gold in aqua-regia, wliich is evapo- 
rated to dryness, leaves a calx of gold, which is 
used for glass, enamel, and i)orcehun gilding; or 
by precipitating the solution with green vitriol dis- 
solved in water, with copper, or perhaps all the 
metals a similar calx is produced. This calx is 
mixed with some essential oil, as oil of spike, and 
calcined borax, and the whole made to adhere to 
tJw- surface of the ^lass, by a solution of gum ara- 



ble. It is then applied with a fine pencil, and burnt 
in under a muffle. 

7'o prepare oxide of cobalt. 

When regulus of cobalt i.s exposed to a moderate 
fire in the open air, it calciues, aud is reduced to a 
blackish powder. 

This calx vitrifi-es with vitrifiable matters, and 
forms beautiful blue glasses. Cobalt is, at pre- 
sent, the only substance known which has the pro- 
perty of furnishing a very fine blue, that is not 
changed by the most intense heat. 
To prepare zaffre. 

Zaffre is the oxide of cobalt, for painting pottery 
ware and porcelain of a bUie colour. Break the 
cobalt with hammers into i)icces about the size of 
a hen's egg: and the stony invoiucrum, with such 
other heterogeneous matters as are distinguish- 
able, separate as much as possible. Pounil ihe 
cliosen mineral in stamping-mills, and sift it 
througli brass wire sieves. Wash oft" the lighter 
])arts by water, and afterwards put it into a "large 
liat-boltoraed arched furnace, resembling a baking 
oven, where the flame of the wood reverberates 
upon the ore ; which stir occasionally, and turn 
with long-handled iron hooks, or rakes; and the 
process is to be continued till its fumes cease. 
The oven or furnace terminates by a long horizon- 
tal galler}', which serves for a chimney; in which 
tlie arsenic, naturally mixed with the ore, sub- 
limes. If tlie ore contains a little bismuth, as this 
semi-metal is very fusible, collect it at the bottom 
of the furnace. The cobalt remains in the state 
of a dark grey oxide and is called zaffre. This 
operation is continued four, or even nine hours, 
according to the quality of the ore. Tlie roasted 
ore being taken out from the furnace, such parts as 
are concreted into lumps, pound and sift afresh. 
Zaffre, in commerce, is never pure, being mixed 
with two or rather three parts of powdered flints. 
A pi'oper quantity of the best sort of these, aftev 
being ignited in a furnace, are to be thrown into 
water, to render them friable, and more easily re- 
duced to powder; which, being sifted, is mixed with 
the zaffre, according to the before-mentioned dose; 
and the mixtm-e is put into casks, after being moist- 
ened with water. This oxide, fused with three 
parts of sand, and one of potass, forms a blue glass. 
which, when pounded, sifted, and ground in mills, 
(included in large casks), forms smalt. 

The blue of zaffre is the most solid and fixed of 
all the colours employed in vitrification. It suffers 
no change from the most violent fire. It is suc- 
cessfully employed to give shades of blue to ena- 
mels, and to crystal glasses made in imitation of 
opaque and transparent precious stones, as the lapis 
lazuli, the turquoisef the sapphire and others. 
Purple precipitate of Cassias, 

Dissolve some pure gold in nitro-muriatic acid, 
add either acid, or metal, until saturation takes 
place. Now dissolve some pure tin in the same 
kind of acid; observe the same point of saturation 
as with the gold; and pour it into the solution of 
gold. A purple powder will be precipitated, 
which must be collected and washed in distilled 
water. 

This beautiful purple colour, as before mention- 
ed, is extremely useful to euamellers, and to glass 
stainers. 

When brought into fusion with a clear transpa- 
rent glass, it tinges it of a purple, red, or violet 
colour. Hence the method of lAaking false rubies 
and garnets. 

7 paint coloured drawings on glass. 

This art is exercised two ways. 1. Plates of 
stained glass are cut into tlie shape of figures, and 
joined by leaden outlines. On these plates, a 



70 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



shading is afterwards traced by the painter, -which 
skives features to the face, and fohls to the drapeiy. 
2. Vitrifiable colours are attached to plates of white 
plass, which are afterwards placed in the oven, and 
thus converted into a transparent enamelling. Tlie 
first sort isclieaper, but tlie shading wears off, by 
the insensible corrosion of tlie atmospliere. The 
second sort defies every accident except fracture, 
but the colour of the figures suffers in the oven. 
For small objects, the first sort, and for large ob- 
jects, the second, as far as art is concerned, seems 
best adapted. 

7'o paint or stain glass black. 
The colom-s used in painting or staining glass 
are verj- different from tliose used in painting either 
in ■water or oil colours. 

For black, take scales of iron, 1 oz. scales of 
copper, 1 oz. jet, half oz. Reduce them to pow- 
der, and mix them. 
# To paint or stain glass blue. 

Take fine white sand, twelve ounses, zaffre and 
minium, each three ounces; reduce them to a fine 
powder in a bell metal mortar, then put the pow- 
der into a very strong crucible, cover it and lute it 
•well, and, being dry, calcine it over a quick fire 
for an hour; take out the matter and pound it: then 
to sixteen ounces of this powder, add fourteen of 
nitre \>owder; inix them well, and put them into 
the crucible again: cover and lute it, and calcine it 
for two hours on a very strong fire. 

To paint glass cai-nation. 
Take red chalk, 8 oz. iron scales, and litharge 
of silver, each 2 oz. gum ar.ibic, half oz. Dissolve 
in water; grind altogether for half an hour till stiff, 
then put the compound in a giass, and stir it well, 
and let it stand for 14 days. 

Green. — Take red lead, 1 lb. scales of copper, 
1 lb. and flint, 5 lbs. Divide them into three parts, 
and add to them as much nitrate of potass; put 
them into a crucible, and melt them by a strong 
fire; and when the mass is cold, powder it, and 
grind it on a slab of porphyry. 

Gold colour. — Take silver, 1 oz. antimonj', half 

oz. Melt them in a crucible, then pound the mass 

to powder, and grind it on a copper plate; add to 

it, yellow ochre, or brick-dust calcined again, 15 

ounces, and grind them well together with water. 

Purple. — Take minium, 1 lb. brown stone, 1 lb. 

white flint, 5 lbs. Divide them into three parts, 

and add to them as much nitrate of potass as one 

of the parts; calcine, melt, and grind the compound. 

Ited. — Take jet, 4 oz. litharge of silver, 2 oz. 

red ch.alk, 1 oz. Powder them fine, and mix them. 

White. — Take jet, 2 parts, white flint, ground 

on a glass very fine, 1 part. Mix them. 

Yelloxv. — Take Spanish brown, 10 parts, silver- 
leaf, I part, antimony, half part. Put all into a 
crucible, and calcine them \<iti\\. 



TO COLOUR PAPER HANGINGS. 

There are three methods of effecting this. The 
first by printing the colours; the second by using 
the stencil; and the third by laying them on with 
a pencil, as in other kinds of painting. 
Printing the colours. 

When the colours are laid on, the impression is 
made by wooden prints, which are cut in such a 
manner that the figure to be expressed is made to 
project from the surface, by cutting away all the 
other part, and this being charged with the colours 
properly tempered (by letting it gently down on 
the block on which the colour is previously spread, ) 
conveys it to tlie ground of the paper, on which it 
is made to fall forcibly by means ot' its weight, and 
Dy the eftbrt of the arm of the person who uses the 



print. There must be as many separate prints as 
there are colours to be printed. 
Stencilling, 

The manner of stencilling the colours is this: 
The figure, whicii all tlie parts of any p.ai-ticular 
colour make in the design to be painted, is to be 
cut out in apiece of tinned iron, thin leather, oroil- 
cloth; these pieces are called stencils; and being 
laid flat on the sheets of paper to be printed, spread 
on a table or floor, are to be rubbed over with the 
colour, properly tcmperetl, by means of a large 
brush. The colour passing over the whole, is con- 
sequently spread on those parts of the paper wliere 
the tin, cloth, or leather is cut away, and give the 
same effect as if laid on by a print. This is, never- 
theless, only practicable in parts where there are 
only detached masses or spots of colours; for where 
there are small continued lines, or ])arts that run 
one into another, it is difticult to preserve the con- 
nexion or continuity of the parts of the cloth, or to 
keep the smaller corners close down to the paper: 
therefore in such cases prints are prefei'able. 
Pencilling. 

Pencilling is only used in the case of nicer work, 
such as the better imitations of India paper. It is 
performed in the same manner as other paintings 
in water or varnish. It is sometimes used only to 
fill the outlines already formed by printing, where 
the price of the colour, or the exactness of the 
manner in which it is required to be laid on, ren- 
der the stencilling, or printing, less proper; at 
other times, it is used for forming or delineating 
some parts of the design, where a spirit of free- 
dom and variety, not to be had in printed outlines, 
are desirable in the work. 

To make Jiock paper hangings. 

The paper designed for receiving the flock, is 
first prepared with a varnish ground with some 
jiroper colour, or by that of the paper itself. It is 
frequently practised to print some INIosaic, or other 
small running figure in colours, on the ground, be- 
fore the flock be laid on; and it may be done with 
any pigment of the cjlour desired, tempered with 
varnish, and laid on by a print cut correspondently 
to that end. The method of laying on the flock is 
this: a wooden print being cut, as above described, 
for laying on the colour in such a manner that tlie 
part of the design which is intended for the flock 
may project beyond the rest of tlie surface, the 
varnish is put on a block covered with leather, or 
oil-cloth, and the print is to be used also in the 
same manner, to lay the varnish on all the parts 
where the flock is to be fixed. 

The sheet thus prepared by the varnished im- 
pression, is then to he removed to another block, 
or table, and to be strewed over with flock, whicii 
is afterwards to be gently compressed by a board, 
or some other flat body, to make the varnish take 
the better hold of it: and then the sheet is to be 
hung on a frame till the varnish be perfectly dry; 
at which time tlie superfluous parts of flock ai-e to 
be brushed oft' by a soft camel's hair brush, and the 
proper flock will be found to adhere in a very 
strong manner. The method of preparing the flock 
is by cutting woollen rags or pieces of cloth, with 
the hand, by means of a large bill or choppiug 
knife; or by means of a machine worked by a horse- 
mill. 



TO COLOUR INIARBLE. 

This is a nice art, and, in order to succeed in it, 
the pieces of marble on which the experiments are 
tried, must be well polished, and free from the 
least spot or vein. The harder the marble is, the 
better it will bear tlie heat necessary in tlie opera- 



TO COLOUR MARBLE. 



7J 



tnn; therefore alabaster, and the common soft 
white marble, are very improper for performing 
ihese operations upon. 

Application of heat. 
Heat is always necessary for opening; the pores 
of marble, so as to render it fit to receive the co- 
lours; but the marble must never be made red-hot; 
for then the texture of it is injured, and tlie colours 
are burnt, and lose tlieir beauty. Too small a de- 
gree of heat is as bad as too great; for, in this case, 
though the marble receives the colour, it will not 
be fixed in it, nor strike deep enough. The pro- 
per degree is that which, without making the mar- 
ble red, will make the liquor boil upon its surface. 
JMenstriiums to strike in the colours. 
These must be varied according to the nature of 
the colour to be used. A lixivium made witli 
liorse's or dog's urine, with four parts of quick 
lime, and one of pot-ashes, is excellent for some 
colours; common ley of wood-ashes is very good 
for others; for some, spirit of wine is best; and 
lastly, for others, oily liquors, or common white 
wine. 

Colours. 
The colours which have been found to succeed 
best with the peculiar menstruums are these: stone- 
blue dissolved in six times the quantityof spirit of 
wine, or of the vinous lixivium, and litmus dissolv- 
ed in common ley of wood-ashes. An extract of 
saffron, and that colour made of buckthorn berries, 
and called sap-green, both succeed well when dis- 
solved in wine and quicklime. Vermilion, and a 
very fine powder of cochineal, also succeed very 
•well in the same liquors. Dragon's blood succeeds 
in spirit of wine, as does also a tincture of logwood 
in the same spirit. Alkanet-root gives a fine colour; 
but the only menstruum to be used with it is the 
oil of turpentine. 

Dry and unmixed colours. 
Besides tliese mixtures, there are other colours 
which must be laid on dry and unmixed: viz. dra- 
gon's blood of the finest kind, for a red; gamboge 
ibr a yellow; green wax, for a green; common 
brimstone, pitch, and turpentine, for a brown co- 
lour. The marble for these experiments must l)e 
made considerably hot, and then the colours are to 
be rubbed on dry in the lamp. 

To give a fine gold colour. 
Take crude sal ammoniac, white vitriol, and 
verdigris, of each equal quantities. Mix the whole 
thoroughly in fine powder. 

To stain marble red or yelloio. 
The staining of marble to all degrees of red or 
yellow, by solutions of dragon's blood or gamboge, 
may be done by reducing these gums to powder, 
and grinding them with the spirit of wine in a 
glass mortar. /; But, for smaller attempts, no me- 
thod is so good as the mixing a little of either of 



those powders with spirit of wine in a silver spoon, 
and holding it over burning charcoal. By this 
means a fine tincture will be extr.icted: and witli a 
pencil dipped in this, the finest traces may be made 
on the marble while cold; which, on the heating of 
it afterwards, either on sand, or in a baker's oven, 
will all sink very deep, and remain perfectly dis- 
tinct on the stone. It is very easy to make the 
ground colour of the marble red or yellow by this 
mode, and leave white veins in it. This is to be 
done by covering the places where the whiteness is 
to remain with some white paint, or even with two 
or three doubles only of pap*r; either of which 
will prevent the colour from penetrating. 
To give a blue colour. 

Dissolve turnsole in lixivium, in lime and urine, 
or in the volatile spirit of urine; but a better blue, 
and used in an easier manner, is furnished by the 
Canary turnsole. This is only to be dissolved in 
water, and drawn on the place witha pencil: it pene- 
trates very deeply into the marble; and the colour 
may be increased, by drawing the pencil wetted 
afresh several times over the same lines. 'This 
colour is subject to spread and diffuse itself irre- 
gularly; but it may be kept in regular bounds, by 
circumscribing its lines with beds of wax, or any 
such substance. It should always be laid on cold, 
and no heat given afterwards to the marble. 
To prepai^e brimstone in imilation of marble. 

Provide a flat and smooth piece of marble; on 
this make a border or wall, to encompass either a 
square or oval table, which may be done either 
with wax or clay. Then having several sorts of 
colours, as white lead, vermilion, lake, orpiment 
masticot, smalt, Prussian blue, &:c. melt on a slow 
fire some brimstone in several glazed pipkins; put 
one particular sort of colour into each, and stir it 
well together; then having before oiled the marble 
all over within the wall with one colour, quickly 
drop spots upon it of larger and less size; after 
this, take another colour and do as before, and so 
on till the stone is covered with spots of all the co- 
lours designed to be used. When tliis is done, 
consider next what colour the mass or gi'ound of 
the table is to be: if of a grey colour, then take fine 
sifted ashes, and mix it up with melted brimstone; 
or if red, with English red ochre; if white, with 
white lead; if black, with lamp or ivory black. 
The brimstone for the ground must be pretty hot, 
that the coloured drops on the stone may unite 
and incorporate ^vitli it. When the ground is 
poured even all over, next, if necessary, put a thin 
wainscot board upon it: this must be done while 
the brimstone is hot, making also the hoard hot, 
which ought to be thoroughly dry, in order to 
cause the brimstone to stick better to it. When 
the whole is cold, take it up, and polish it witli a 
cloth and oil, and it will look very beautiful. 



ZSNi^IKZEXiXiZNa. 



The art of enamelling consists in the applica- 
tion of a smooth coating of vitrified matter to a 
bright polished metallic surface. It is, therefore, 
a kind of varnish made of glass, and melted upon 
the substance to which it is applied, affording a 
fine uniform ground for an infinite variety of oi'na- 
Dients which are also fixed on by heat. 



The only metals that are enamelled are gold and 
copper; antl with the latter the opaque enamels 
only are used. Where the enamel is transparent 
and coloured, the metal chosen shoidd not only 
have its surface unalterable when fully red-hot, 
but also be in no degree chemically altered by the 
close contact of melted glass, containing an abun- 



72 



UNTVTIRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



dance of some kind of metallic oxide. This is the 
chief reason why coloured enamelling on silver is 
impracticable, though the brilliancy of its surface 
is not impaired by mere heat; for if an enamel, made 
yellow by oxide of lead or antimony, be laid on 
the surface of bright silver, and be kq)t melted on 
it for a certain time, the silver and the enamel act 
on each other so powerfully, that the colour soon 
changes from a yellow to an orange, and lastly to a 
dirty olive. Copper is equally altered by the co- 
loured enamels, so that gold is the only metal 
■which can bear the long contact of tlie coloured 
glass at a full red heat without being altered by them. 
To enamel dial plates. 

A piece of thin sheet copper, Iwmmered to the 
requisite convexity, is first accurately cut out, a 
hole drilled in the middle for the axis of the Iiands, 
and both the surfaces made perfectly bright with 
a brush. A small rim is then made round tlie cir- 
cumference, with a thin brass band rising a little 
above the level, and a similar rim round the mar- 
igiu of the central hole. The use of these is to 
confine the enamel when in fusion, and to keep 
tlie edges of the plate quite neat and even. The 
substance of the enamel is a fine white opaque 
glass; this is bouglit in lump by the enamellers, and 
js first broken down with a hammer, then ground 
to a powder sufficiently fine, with some water, in 
an agate mortar; the superfluous water being then 
poured ofl", the pulverized enamel remains of about 
the consistence of wetted sand, and is spread veiy 
evenly over the surface of the copperplate, in 
most enamellings, and especially on this, it is ne- 
cessary also to counter-enamel the under concave 
surface of the copperplate, to prevent its being 
drawn out of its true shape by the unequal shrink- 
ing of the metal and enamel, on cooling. For 
this kind of work, the counter-enamel is only about 
half the thickness on the concave, as on the convex 
side. For flat plates, the thickness is the same on 
both sides. 

The plate, covered with the moist enamel pow- 
der, is warmed and thoroughly dried, then gently 
set upon a thin earthen ring, that supports it only' 
by touching the outer rim, and put gradually into 
the red hot muffle of the enameller's furnace. Tiiis 
furnace is constructed somewhat like the assay- 
furnace, but the upper part alone of the muffle is 
much heated, and some peculiarities are observed 
in the construction, to enable the artist to govern 
the fire more accurately. 

The precise degree of heat to be given here, as 
in all enamelling, is that at whicli the particles of 
tlie enamel run together into an uniform pasty con- 
sistence, and extend tliemselves evenly, showing a 
fine polished face; carefully avoiding, on the other 
hand, so great a heat as would endanger the melt- 
ing of the thin metallic plate. AVhen the enamel 
is thus seen to sweat down, as it were, to an uni- 
form glossy glazing, the piece is gradually with- 
drawn and cooled, otherwise it would fly by the 
action of the cold air. 

A second coating of enamel is then laid on and 
fired as before; but this time, the finest powder of 
enamel is taken, or that which remains suspended 
in the washings. It is then ready to receive the 
figures and division marks, which are made of a 
black enamel, ground in an agate mortar, to a 
most impalpable powder, worked up, on a pallet, 
•with oil of lavender, and laid on with an extremely 
fine hair brush. The plate is then stoved to eva- 
porate the essential oil, and the figure is burnt in 
as before. Polishing with tripoli, and minuter 
parts of the process, need not be here described. 
To make the purple enamel used in the JVlosaic pic- 
tures of St. Peter''s at Rome. 

Take of sulphur, saltpetre, vitriol, antimony. 



and oxide of tin, each, 1 lb. minium, or oxide of 
lead, 60 lbs. 

Mix !»11 together in a cnicible, and melt in a fur- 
nace: next take it out and wash it to carry off the 
salts: after melting in the crucible, add 19 ounces 
of rose copper, half an ounce of prepared zaffre, 1 
ounce an(l a half of crocus martis, made with sul- 
phur, 3 ounces of refined borax, and 1 lb. of a com- 
position of gold, silver, and mercury. 

When all are well combined, the mass is to be 
stirred with a copper rod, and the fire gradually 
diminished to prevent the metals from burning. 
The composition thus prepared is finally to be put 
into crucibles and placed in a reverberatory fur- 
nace, where they are to remain 24 hours. The 
same composition will answer for other colours, by 
merely changing the colournig matter. This com- 
position has almost all the cliaracters of real stone; 
and when broken, exhibits a vitreous fracture.— 
P/ulosoph. J\lag. 

To make -white enamel, for porcelain. 

Mix 100 parts of pure lead with fi-om 20 to 25 
of the best tin, and bring them to a low red heat 
in an open vessel. The mixture tlien burns nearly 
as rapidly as charcoal, and oxidates very fast. 
Skim oft' the crusts of oxide successively formed, 
till the whole is thoroughly calcined. 

Then mix all the skimmings, and again heat as 
before, till no fiame arises from them, and the 
whole is of an uniform grey colour. Take 100 
parts of this oxide, 100 of white sand, and 25 or 
30 of common salt, and melt the whole by a mo- 
derate lieat. This gives a greyish mass, often po- 
rous and apparently imjierfect, but which, how- 
ever, runs to a good enamel when afterwards 
heated. 

For metals and finer ivories. 

The sand is previously calcined in a very strong 
heat with a fourth of its weight; or, if a more fusi- 
ble compound is wanted, as much of the oxides of 
tin and lead as of salt are taken, and the wliole is 
melted into a white porous mass. This is then 
employed instead of the rough sand, as in tlie pre- 
ceding process. 

The above proportions, however, are not inva- 
riable, for if more fusibility is wanted, the dose of 
oxide is increased, and that of the sand diminished, 
the quantity of common salt remaining the same. 
The sand employed in this process is not the com- 
mon sort, however fine; bi.t a micaceous sand, in 
which thd nuca forms about one-fourth of the mi.\- 
tui-e. 

JVew enamel for porcelain. 

Melt together, pulverized feldspar, 27 parts, 
borax 18 parts, sand, 4 do. potash, nitre, and pot- 
ter's earth, 3 parts each. 

Then add three parts of borax reduced to fine 
powder. 

From the trial which the society of Arts in Lon- 
don ordered to be made of this enamel, it has beea 
found superior to any hitherto known. It is easily 
and uniformly applied, and spreads without pro- 
ducing bubbles, or spoutings out; it neither co- 
vers nor impairs even the most delicate colours. 
It incorporates perfectly with them, and the por- 
celain which is covered over with it may pass a 
second time through the fire, without this enamel 
cracking or breaking out. 

Materialfor opaque enamels. 

Neri, in his valuable treatise on glass m.iking', 
has long ago given the following proportions for 
tlie common material of all the opaque enamels, 
which Kunckel and other practical chemists have 
confirmed. — Calcine 30 parts of lead, with 33 of 
tin, with the usual precautions. Then take of this 
calcined mixed oxide 50 lbs. and as much of pow- 
dered flints (prepared by being thrown into water 



ENAMELLING. 



73 



when red hot, and then ground to powder), and 8 
ounces of salt of tartar; melt the mixture in a 
strong fire kept up for ten hours, after which re- 
duce the mass to powder. 

To make it white. 
Mix 6 lbs. of the compound Avith 48 grtiins of 
the best black oxide of manganese, and melt in a 
clear fire. When fully fused, throw it into cold 
water, then re-melt and cool as before, two or 
three times, till the enamel is quite white and fine. 
Jiich red coloured enmnel. 
l"he most beautiful and costly colour known in 
enamelling, is an exquisitely fine rich red, with a 
purplish tinge, given by the salts and oxides of 
K^old; especiallj'iiy the purple precipitate, formed 
by tin in one form or other; and by nitromuriate 
of gold; and also by the fulminating gold. This 
beautiful colour requires much skill in the artist, 
to be fully brought out. When most perfect it 
should come from the fire quite colourless, and af- 
terwards receive its colour by the flame of a can- 
dle. 

Other, and common reds, are given by the oxide 
of iron; but this requires the mixture of alumine, 
or some other substance refractory in the fire, 
otherwise at a full red heat, tlie colour will de- 
generate into black. 

\ro prepare the Jiiuc for enamelling on glass vessels. 
Take of satwnns glorijicatus, I lb. natural crys- 
tal, calcined to whiteness, 1-2 lb. salt ofpolverine, 
lib. 

Mix them together, and bake in a slow heat for 
about 12 hours, then melt the mass, and pulverize 
the same in an agate mortar, or any other proper 
vessel, which is not capable of communicating any 
metallic or other impurit)'. 

I'o prepare glorijicatus. 
Take litharge of^ white lead, put it in a pan, 
pour on distilled vinegar, stirring it well over a 
gentle fire till the vinegar becomes impregnated 
■with the salt of the lead; evaporate half the vine- 
gar, put it in a cool place to crystallize, and keep 
Uie crystals diy for use. 

To make green enamel. 
Take of copper-dust, 1 oz. sand, 2 oz. litharge, 
1 oz. nitre, ^ oz. Or, copper, 2 oz. sand, 1 oz. 
litharge, 2 oz. nitre, 1^ oz. 

Mix them with equal parts of flux, or vary the 
proportions of them as may be found necessary, 
according to the tint of colour required. 

alack enameli — Take of calcined iron, cobalt, 
crude oi- prepared, each 1 oz. Or, zaflre, 2 oz. 
manganese, 1 oz. 

Mix tliem with equal parts of flux, by melting 
or grinding together. 

Yellow enamel. — Take of lead and tin ashes, 
litharge, antimony and sand, each 1 oz. nitre, 4 
ounces. 

Calcine, or nielt them together; pulverize, and 
mix them with a due proportion of flux, as the na- 
ture of the glass may require; or take more or less 
of any or all of the above, according to the depth 
of colour desired. 

Bhie enamel. — Take of prepared cobalt, sand, 
red-lead, and nitre, each 1 oz. flint glass, 2 oz. 

Melt them together by fire, pulverized and flux- 
ed according to the degree of softness, or strength 
of colour required. 

Olive enamel. — Take of the blue as prepared 
above, I oz. black, ^ oz. yellow, \ oz. Grind 
them for use. If necessaiy add flux to make it 
softer. 

JV/tite enamel. — Take of tin, prepared by aqua- 
fortis, and red-lead, each I oz. white pebble-stone, 
or natural crystal, 2 oz. nitre, 1 oz. arsenic 1 
drachm, with equal parts of flux, or moi-e or less, 



as the softness or opacity may require: melt to- 
gether, calcine, or use raw. 

JPurple enainel. — I'ake the finest gold ; dissolve 
it in aqua-regia, regulated with sal-ammoniac; put 
it in a sand heat for about 48 hours, to digest the 
gold, collect the powder, grind it with 6 times its 
weight of sulphur, put it into a crucible on the fir« 
till the sulphur is evaporated; then amalgamate the 
powder with twice its weight of mercury, put it 
into a mortar or other vessel, and rub it together 
for about six hours, with a suiall quantity of water 
in the mortar, which change frequently; evaporate 
the remaining mercury in a crucible, and add to 
the powder 10 times its weight of flux, or more or 
less, as the hardness or softness of the colour may 
require. 

Rose-coloured enamel.— Tt^Q purple as pre- 
pared above, mix it with 30 times its weight of 
flux, and 100th part of its weight of silver leaf, or 
any preparation of silver, or vary the proportion of 
the flux and silver as the quality of the colour may 
require; or any of the other preparations for pur- 
ple will do, varying the proportions of the flux 
and silver as above; or any materials, from which 
purple can be produced, will, with the addition of 
silver and flux, answer. 

_ Broxtin enamel. — Take of red-lead, 1 ounce, cal- 
cined iron, 1 oz. antimony, 2 oz. lithargf , 2 oz. 
zaffre, I oz. sand, 2 oz. 

Calcine, or melt together, or use raw, as may 
be most expedient; or vary the proportions of any 
or all the above, as tint or quality may require. 
JMode of application. 
The preceding colours may be applied to vessels 
of glass in the following manner, viz. by painting, 
printing, or transferring, dipping, floating, atid 
grounding. 

By painting. — Mix the colours (when reduced 
by grinding to a fine powder) with spirits of tur- 
pentine, temper them with thick oil of turpentine, 
and apply tliem with camel-hair pencils, or any 
other proper instrument, or mix them with nut or 
spike oil, or any other essential or volatile oil, or 
with water, in which case use gum arable, or any 
other gum that will dissolve in water, or with spi- 
rits, varnishes, gums of every kind, waxes, or re- 
sins; but the first is conceived to be the best. 

By printing. — Take a glue bat, full size for the 
subject, charge the copperplate with the oil or co- 
lour, and take the impression with the bat from the 
plate, which impression transfer on the glass: if 
the impression is not strong enough, shake some 
dry colour on it which will adhere to the moist co- 
lour; or take any engraving or etching, or stamp, 
or cast, and having charged it witli the oil or co- 
lour, transfer it on the glass by means of prepared 
paper, vellum, leather, or any other substance 
that will answer; but the first is the best. Any 
engravings, etchings, stamps, casts, or devices, 
may be charged with waters, oils, varnishes, or 
glutinous matters of any kind, reduced to a proper 
state, as is necessary in printing in general; any 
or all of these may be used alone, or mixed with 
the colours. When used alone, the colour is to 
be applied in powder. 

By dipping. — Mix the colour to about the con- 
sistency of a cream with any of the ingredients 
used for printing, . in which dip the glass vessel, 
and keep it in motion till smooth. 

By floating. — Mix the colour with any of the 
ingredients used for printing, to a consistencj" ac- 
cording to the strength of the ground required, 
float it through a tube, or any other vessel, moving 
or shaking the piece of glass till the colour is 
spread over the part required. 

By grounding. — ^First charge the glass vessel 

G 



74 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



•^vith oil of turpentine, with a camel-hair pencil, 
ami while moist apply the colour in a dry powder, 
■which will adhere to tiie oil, or, instead of oil of 
tui-pentine, use any of the materials used for print- 
ing; hut the first is the hcst. 
Cautions to be observed in making coloured ena- 
mels. 

In making these enamels, the following general 
•cautions are necessary to he observed. Ist. That 
the i)Ots be glazed with white glass, and he such as 
will bear the fire. 

2d. That the matter of enamels be very nicely 
mixed with the colours. 

5d. Wiien the enamel is good, and the colour 
well incorporated, it must be taken from the fire 
with a pair of tongs. 

General method of making coloured enamels. 

Powder, sift, andgrind all the colours very nice- 
ly, and first mix them with one another, and then 
Willi the common matter of enamels; then set 
them in pots in a furnace, and when they are well 
mixed and incorporated, cast them into water, and 
when dry, set them in a furnace again to melt, and 
when melted take a proof of it. If too deep co- 
loured, add more of the common matter of ena- 
mels; and if too i)ale add more of the colours. 
To obtain black enamel tvith platina. 

^lix some ciilorine of platina, dissolved in wa- 
ter, with neuter-nitrate of mercury, and expose 
the precipitate, which will he formed, to a heat 
simply sufficient to volatilize tlieproto-chlorine of 
mercury; there will be obtained a black powder, 
which, applied with a dissolvent or flux, gives a 
beautiful black enamel. — Annales de Chimie. 
To make enamel, called niello. 

Take 1 part of pure silver, 2 of copper, and 3 
of pure lead, fuse them together, and pour the 
amalgam into a long-necked earthenware matrass, 
half filled with levigated sulphur; let the mouth 
of the vessel be immediately closed, and the con- 
tents left to cool. The mass which results, when 
levigated and washed, is ready for the purposes of 
the artist. The cavities left by the fusion having 
been filled with it, the plate is to be held over a 
small furnace, fed with a mixture of charcoal and 
•wood, taking care to distribute the enamel with 
the proper instrument. As soon as fusion has ta- 
ken place, the plate is to be removed; and, when 
sufficiently cooled, is to be cleared by the file, and 
polished by fine ])umice and tripoli. 
To paint in enamel. 

The enamel painter has to work, not with actual 
colours, but with mixtures, which he only knows 
from experience will produce certain colours after 
the delicate operation of the fire; and to the com- 
mon skill of the painter, in the arrangement of his 
palette and choice of his* colours, the enameller has 
to add much practical knowledge of the chemical 
operation of one metallic oxide on another; the fu- 
sibility of his materials; and the utmost degree of 
heat at which they will retain, not only the accu- 
racy of the figures which he has given, but the pre- 
cise shade of colour which he intends to lay on. 

Painting in enamel re(iuires a succession of fir- 
ings: first of tiie ground which is to receive the 
<lesign, and which itself rerpiires two firings, and 
then of the difierent parts of the design itself. The 
ground is laid on in the same general way as the 
common watch face enamelling. The colours are 
the different metallic oxides, melted with some 
vitrescent mixture, and ground to extreme fineness. 
These are worked up with an essential oil (that of 
spikenard is prefen-ed, and next to it oil of laven- 



der) to the proper consistence of oil colours, and 
are laid on with a very fine hair brush. The es- 
sential oil should be very pure, and the use of this, 
rather than of any fixed oil, is, that the whole may 
evaporate com])letely in a moderate lieat, and leave 
no carbonaceous matter in contact Avith the colour 
when red hot, which might afiect its degree of oxi- 
dation, and thence the shade of colour which it is 
intended to produce. As the colour of some vitri- 
fied metallic oxides (such as that of gold) will 
stand at a veiy moderate heat, whilst others will 
bear, and even require a higher temperature to be 
properly fixed, it forms a great jjart of the techni- 
cal skill of the artist to supply the difierent colours 
in proper order; fixing first those shades which are 
produced by the colours that will endure llie high- 
est, and finishing with those that demand the least 
heat. The outline of the design is first traced on 
the enamel, ground and burnt in; after which, the 
parts are filled up gradual!)" by repeated burnings, 
to the last and finest touches of the teiiderest ena- 
mel. 

Transparent enamels are scarcely ever laid upon 
any other metal than gold, on account of tlie dis- 
coloration produced by other metals. If, however, 
copper is the metal used, it is first covered with a 
thin enamel coating, over which gold leaf is laid 
and burnt in, so that, in fact, it is still this metal 
that is the basis of the ornamental enamel. 
To manufacture JMosaic as at Rome. 

Mosaic work consists of variously shaped pieces 
of coloured glass enamel; and when these pieces 
are cemented together, they form those i"egular 
and other beautiful figures which constitute tessel- 
lated pavements. 

The enamel, consisting of glass mixed with me- 
tallic colom-ing matter, is heated for eight days in 
a glass-house, each colour in a separate pot. The 
melted enamel is taken out with an iron spoon, and 
poured on polished marble placed horizontally; 
and another flat marble slab is laid upon the sur- 
face, so that the enamel cools into the form of a 
round cake, of the diickuess of three-tenths of an 
inch. 

In order to divide the cake into smaller pieces, 
it is placed on a sharp steel anvil, called tagliulo, 
which has the edge uppermost; and a stroke of an 
edged hammer is given on the upper surface of the 
cake, which is thus divided into long parallelo- 
pipeds, or prisms, whose bases are three-tenths of 
an inch square. These parallelepipeds are again 
divided across their length by the tagliulo and ham- 
mer into pieces of the length of eight-tenths of an 
inch, to be used in the Mosaic pictures. Some- 
times the cakes are made thicker and the pieces 
larger. 

For smaller pictures, the enamel, whilst fused, 
is drawn into long parallelopipeds, or quadrangu- 
lar sticks; and these are divided across by the tag- 
liulo and hammer, or by a file; sometimes, also, 
these pieces are divided by a saw without teeth, 
consisting of a copper blad.e and emery; anil the 
pieces are sometimes polished on a horizontal 
wheel of lead w ith emery. 

Gilded JMosaic. 

Gilded Mosaic is formed by applying the gold 
leaf on the hot surface of a brown enamel, imme- 
diatel) after the enamel is taken from tlie furnace; 
the wliole is put into the furnace again for a short 
time, and when it is taken out the gold is firmly 
fixed on the surface. In the gilded enamel, used 
in Mosaic at Rome, there is a tldn coat of transpa- 
rent glass over the gold. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT EOOK. 



75 



EBICRiLiriNG. 



The diiferent modes of engraving are the follow- 
ing:— 

1. In strokes cut through a thin wax, laid upon 
the copper, with a point, and these strokes Isitten 
or corroded into the copper with aqua-fortis. This 
is called etching. 

2. In strokes with the gravM' alone unassisted by 
aqua-fortis. In this instance, the design is traced 
vith a sharp tool, culled a drij point, upon tiie 
plate; and the strokes are cut or plouglied upon tlie 
copper with an instrument distinguished by the 
name of a graver. 

3. In mezzotinto, which is performed by a dark 
ground being raised uniformly upon the plate with 
a toothed tool. 

4. In aquatinta, the outline is first etched, and 
aflerwai'ds a sort of wash is laid by the aqua-fortis 
upon the plate, resembling drawings in Indian ink, 
bistre, &c. 

5. On wood, performed with a single block. 

6. On wood, with two, three, or more blocks. 
Tliis mode of engraving is called chiar' oscuro, 

and was designed to represent the drawings of the 
old masters. 

7. Engraving on steel. 

JEtching. 

Etching is a method of woi'king on copper, 
wherein the lines or strokes instead of being cut 
with a graver, are eaten with aqua-fortis. 
JMaterials, &c. 

The principal materials for this art are, the cop- 
per-plate, hai'd and soft ground, (the first for win- 
ter, and the other for summer,) a dabber, turpen- 
tine-varnish, lamp-black, soft wax, and aqua-fortis. 

The tools arean oil-rubber, a burnisher,a scraper, 
a hand-vice, etching-boards, etching-needles, an 
oil stone, and a parallel ruler. 

To lay on the ground or varnish. 

Having provided a plate of the size of the draw- 
ing intended to be copied, rub it well with an oil- 
rubber made of swan-skin flannel, till all the marks 
of the charcoal used in polishing it, entirely disap- 
pear; then, wipe oft' the dirty oil with a linen rag, 
dip tlie finger in some clean oil, and touch it over 
everv part of the plate; after which, with the bur- 
nisher, polish the plate; and in case any sand-holes 
or flaws appear, the scraper will assist in taking 
them out. The marks left by the scraper are to 
be taken out by the burnisher till nothing appear. 
Having fixed the hand-vice at one end of the plate 
•with a rag and whiting, clean the ])late carefully 
from grease; then heat it over a charcoal fire, or 
lighted paper, lay the ground on thinly, and dab it 
all over with the dabber, till it is perfectly smooth 
and even; then warm the plate again, and, holding 
it up with the ground downwards, smoke it all over 
with a wax candle, taking care that the snuft" of it 
does not touch the ground, and wave the candle 
continually over every part, so that the ground may 
not be burnt by heating it more in one place than 
another. If the plate be large, bind four wax-ta- 
pers together. 

To trace the outlines. 

Rub the back part of the drawing all over with 
a bit of rag or cotton, dipt in the scrapings of i-ed 
clialk, and shake ort'the loose dust, or wipe it off" 
gently with a clean rag. Place the red side upon 
the piate, making it fast at each corner with a lit- 
tle bit of soft wax. Lay the etching board under 
the hand, to prevent bruising the ground; then with 
a blunt etchmg needle trace lightly the outlines 



and breadths of the shadows till the marks of them 
appear upon the gromid, taking care not to pene- 
trate it by tracing too hard. 

As great nicety is required in this part of the 
work, it will be necessary now and then to lift up 
one corner of the original, and examine whether 
every part be traced before the taking it off, as it 
will be extremely diflicult to lay it down again in 
its former position. 

Directions for etching. 

Having carefully traced the original, take it off, 
and lay a silk handkerchief next the plate, and 
over that the etching board; then proceed to the 
etching; for which, observe the following direc- 
tions. 

Distances in landscapes, or the faint pai-ts of any 
other picture, are the first to be done: and these 
are to be worked closer, and with a sharper pointed 
needle: the darker parts must be etched wider, 
and with a blunter needle; but to prevent mistakes, 
the needles may be marked according to their dif- 
ferent degrees, and the uses for which they are in- 
tended. As for the veiy faintest parts of all, they 
are to be left for tlie graver, or dry needle. 

In buildings, and all architecture in general, use 
a parallel ruler, till frequent practice enables the 
artist to do them well enough without. 

The needles may, when necessary, be whetted 
upon the oil-stone, keeping them turning in the 
hand, so as to whet them equally all round. The 
oil-stone will be further useful in whetting tho 
scraper, which is to be rubbed flat upon the stone, 
and with a steady hand, keeping oil constantly upon 
the stone. 

To bite or eat in the work -vith aquafortis. 

Examine the work carefully and see tliat nothing 
is omitted; and if any scratches appear upon the, 
ground, or mistakes be committed, stop them out, 
by covering them with a mixture of lamp-black 
and varnish, laid on thinly with a hair-pencil, 
which, when dry, will i-esist the aqua-fortis. 1' 
will be better, liowever, to stop these out, as they 
occur in the course of the work, as they will 
be less liable to escape notice; when the varnish is 
dry, etch it over again if required. 

Then inclose the work with a rim or border of 
soft wax, about half an inch high, bending tlie wax 
in tlie form of a spout, at one corner, to pour otf 
the aqua-fortis; take care to lay the wax so close 
to the plate that no vacancies be left. 

The aqua-fortis must he single; and if too strong, 
as will be seen in the biting, take it off, and mix 
it with a little water, shaking them together in a 
bottle; and wlien, by often using, it becomes too 
weak, it may be strengthened by mixing it with a 
little double aqua-fortis. The bottle which con- 
tains the aqua-fortis, should have a large mouth 
and a glass stopper. 

Let Uie aqua-fortis lie on the plate a short time, 
wiping oft" the bubbles as they arise with a feather, 
which may remain upon the plate while it is bit- 
ing; after which take it oft', and wash the plate with 
water; then let it dry, and by scraping oft" part of 
tlie ground from the faintest part of the work, try 
if it be bit enough; and if not, slop out the part 
which has been tried with the lamp-black and var- 
nish, and when that is dry, pour on the aqua-fortis 
again. 

When the faint parts of the work are bit enough, 
stop them out, and proceed to bite the stronger 
parts, stopping them out as occasion reipiires, till 



7G 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the whole work is sufficiently bit; then warm the 
plate, and take off the soft wax: after which, heat 
the plate till the groimd melts, pour on a little oil, 
and wipe the Miiole off with a rag. Wlien the 
ground is taken off, ruh the work well with tlie oil- 
rubber, and wipe the plate clean; then proceed to 
finish it with the s;raver. 

Jinqravinff tools. 

The tools necessary for engraving, are the oil- 
rubber, burnisher, scraper, oil-stone, needles, and 
ruler, already mentioned to be used in etching; 
also gravers, compasses, and a sand bag. 

Gravers are of two sorts, square and lozenge. 
Three of each sort should be provided. The first 
is used in cutting the broader strokas, the other 
for the fainter and more delicate ones. No 
graver should exceed the length of five inches and 
a half, the handle included, excepting for straight 
lines. 

Tiie sand-bag or cushion is used to lay the 
plate on, for the convenience of turning it about. 
To whet and temper the graver: 

As great paius are required to whet the graver 
nicely, particularly tlie belly of it, care must be 
taken to lay the two angles of the graver, which 
are to be held next the plate, flat upon the stone, 
and rub them steadily, till tlie belly rises gradual- 
ly above the plate, so that when the graver is laid 
flat upon it, the liglit may be just perceived uniler 
tlie point, otherwise it will dig into the copper, and 
then it will be impossible to keep a point, or exe- 
cute the work with freedom. Keep the right arm 
close to the side, and place the forefinger of the 
left hand upon that part of the graver which lies 
uppermost on the stone. When this is done, in 
order to whet the face, place the fiat part of the 
handle in the liollow of the hand, with the belly of 
tlie graver upwards, upon a moderate slope, and 
rub the extremity or face upon the stone, till it has 
an exceeding sharp point. The oil-stone, while iii 
use, must never be kept without oil. 

When the graver is too hard, which may be , 
known by the frequent breaking of the point, the 
method of tempering it is as follows: — 

Heat a poker red-hot, and hold the graver upon 
it within half an inch of the point, waving it to and 
fro till the steel changes to a light straw colour; 
then put the point into oil to cool; or hold the 
graver close to the flame of a candle till it be of 
the same colour, and cool it in the tallow; but be 
careful either way not to hold it too long, for then 
it will be too soft; and in this ease the point, which 
will then turn blue, must be broken oft', whetted 
afresh, and tempered again if required. 
To hold the graver. 

Hold the handle in the hollow of the hand, and 
extending the fore-finger down towards the point, 
let it I'est upon the back of the graver, so as to hold 
it flat and parallel with the plate. 

Take care that the fingers do not interpose be- 
tween the plate and the graver, for they will pre- 
vent the artist from carrying the graver level with 
the plate, and from cutting the strokes so clean as 
they ought to be. 

To lay the design upon the plate. 

After polishing it fine and smooth, heat it so that 
it will melt virgin -wax, with which rub it thinly 
and equally over, and let it cool. Then the design 
must be dvawn on paper with a black lead pencil, 
and laid upon the plate with its pencilled side upon 
the wax; press it to, and with a burnisher go over 
every part of the design; then with a sharp-pointed 
tool, trace it through the wax upon the plate, take 
oft' the wax and proceed to work. 

To engrave on copper. 

Place the sand-bag on a firm table, or fixed board 
with the plate upon it; and holding the graver as 



above directed, proceed to business in Uie follow- 
ing manner: — 

For straight strokes, hold the plate firm upon the 
sand- hag with the left h;nul, moving the right hand 
forwards, leaning lighter where the stroke sliould 
be fine, and harder M'here it should be broader. 

For circular or crooked strokes, hold the gi-aver 
steadfast, moving the hand or the plate as most 
convenient. Carry the hand with such a sleight, 
tliat the stroke may be ended as finely as it was be- 
gun; and if there is occasion to make one part 
(k-eper or blacker than another, do it by degrees 
taking care that the strokes be not too close nor too 
wide. 

In the course of the work, scrape off the bur or 
roughness which arises with the belly of the grav- 
er, but be careful in doing this, not to scratch the 
plate; rub it with the oil rubber, and wipe the plate 
clean, which will take off the glare of the copper, 
and siiew what has been done to the best advantage. 
Any mistakes or scratches in the plate may be 
rubbed out with the burnisher, and the part level- 
led with the scraper, polishing it again afterwards 
lightly with the burnisher. 

The piece may now be finished by graving up 
the several parts to the colour of the original, be- 
ginning, as in etching, with the fainter parts, and 
advancinggradually with the stronger, till the whole 
is completed. 

The dry needle (so called because not used till 
the ground istakenoff the plate) is principally em- 
ployed in the extreme light parts of water, sky, dra- 
[lery, architecture, &c. 

'i'o prevent too great a degree of light, use a sash, 
made of transparent or fan paper, pasted on a frame 
and placed sloping at a convenient distance between 
the work and the light. 

To engrave upon copper in alto relievo. 

The new art of engraving upon copper, M'hich 
Mr Lizars of Edinburgh has invented, is a substi- 
tute for wood engraving, in the same manner as li- 
thography is a substitute for copper-plate engra- 
ving; but while INlr Lizars has given us a cheaper 
art for a more expensive one, he has also ^iven us 
a more perfect art for one which is full ot imper- 
fections. 

In the common operation of engraving, the de- 
sired effect is produced by making incisions upoa 
the co[)per-plate with a steel instrument of an an- 
gular shape, wliich incisions are filled with print- 
ing ink, and transferred to the paper by the pres- 
sure of a roller, which is passed over its surface. 
There is another mode of producing these lines or 
incisions by means of diluted nitrous acid, in which 
the impression is taken in the same way. Mr Li- 
zars' new method of engraving is done upon a prin- 
ciple exactly the reverse, for instead of the subject 
beiiigcutinto the copper, it is the interstice between 
the lines wliich is removed by diluted aqua-fortis, 
and the lines are leit as the surface: from whicli 
the impression is taken by means of a commoa 
type printing pi-ess, instead of a copper-plate 
press. 

This is effected by drawing with common tur- 
pentine varnish, covered with lamp-black, whatever 
is required upon the plate, and when the varnish 
is thoroughly dry, the acid is poured upon it, and 
tiie interstice of course removed by its action upon 
the uncovered part of the copper. If the subject is 
very full of dark shadows, this operation will_ be 
performed with little risk of accident, and with the 
removal of very little of the interstice between the 
lines: but if the distance between the lines is great, 
the risk and difliculty is very much increased, and 
it will be requisite to cut away the parts which sur- 
round the lines, with a graver, i.\ order to prevent 
the (labber with the printing ink from reaching 



ENGRAVING. 



77 



the bottom, and thus producing a blurred impres<- 
sion. It is obvious, thei-etbre, that the more the 
plate IS covered with work, tlie less risk will there 
be ill the preparation of it with the acid, after the 
subject is drawn, and the less trouble will there be 
in removing the interstice (if any ) from those places 
vhero there is little shading. 

To make bordering wax for copperplates. 

Take one-third of bees wax, and two-thirds of 
pitch; melt them in a pipkin or iron ladle, and 
pour them into luke-warra water. When well 
mixed, and the water is squeezed out, form it into 
rolls of convenient size. 

When wanted for use, it must be put into luke- 
uarm water to soften it, and render it easily worked 
by the nand. ^Vllen sufficiently pliable, it must 
be drawn out into long rolls, and put round the 
edges of the plate, from half an inch to an inch i 
higli. Mould a spout at one corner to pour off the 
aqua-fortis. 

Another method. — Melt bees-wax with a small 
portion ot Venice turpentine and tallow, until it 
becomes of a proper consistency. 

This is used for placing round the plate about 
an inch high, previously to pouring on tlie aqua- 
fortis. At one corner a spout or gutter should he 
made fir the purpose of pouring offtbe aqua-fortis, 
when the etching is sufficiently bit in. 
To make Iiemhrandt''s -white varnish for engravivir. 

Take of virgin-wax, one ounce, of mastic, half 
an ounce, of calcined aspbaltum, or of anibei', half 
an ounce. Pound the mastic and aspbaltum sepa- 
rately in a mortar; put the wax into a new earthen- 
ware pot well glazed, and place it over a fire, till 
the wax be melted; then sprinkle in, by little and 
little, the mastic and aspbaltum, and stir the mix- 
ture well together till the whole be incorporated. 
Pour the melted matter afterwards into clean water, 
and form it into a ball which must bclieptfor use. 

In using this varnish, it is proper to take parlicu- 
l.ar care of three things. The first, not to heat the 
pl.ate too much when the varnish is put upon it. 
1 he second, to lay the first coat of varnish as thin 
as possible, in order to be able to spread the white 
■varnish upon it, without rendering the whole of too 
fjreat a thickness: The third, to omit blackening 
this vaniisli v/ilh smoke, as is done with the com- 
mon; but when it is become entirely cold, take a 
piece of wliite lead, and having ground it extreme- 
ly fine, temper it with gum wat('r; and then, witii 
a pencil, lay a coat of it ver)' thinly and e(pially 
over tlie whole plate. This is the manner iu which 
Uembrandt varnished his plates. 

Calhfs soft vaniisfi. 

Take of virgin-wax, four ounces, of amber, (Or 
crf the best aspbaltum calcined), and of mastic, 
each two ouTices, of resin, common jiitch, or shoe- 
maker's wax, eacli one ounce, and of varnish, or 
turpentine, half an ounce. 

Having prepared all these ingi-edients, take a 
new earthen-pot, and put it over the fire, witli the 
virgin-wax in it: and when that is melted, add gra- 
<lual!y to it the pitch; and afterwards the powders, 
etirring the mixture each time in proportion to the 
addition made to it. AVIien the whole is sufficiently 
melted and mixt together, take the pot from tlie 
fire, and having poured the mass in an earthen ves- 
sel, full of clean water, form it into balls, by work- 
ing it with the bauds, and keepthem in a box, free 
from dust, for use. 

The two ounces of mastic are to be used only in 
summer, because it hardens the varnisli, and pre- 
serves it from being cracked by tiic engraver's lean- 
ing over the plate dm-ing the graving; but in that 
liesigned for winter, ouly one ounce should be 
put. 



Salmon^s soft vmiush. 

Take of virgin-wax, four ounces, aspbaltum, two 
ounces, amber and mastic, each one ounce. 

The preparation is much the same as for the 
preceding, only caution should be used that the 
fire be not too strong, as the varnish will, other- 
wise, be apt to bum. This varnish is only for 
summer use, and would be too hard for winter. 
Excellent Parisian soft varnish. 

Take of virgin-wax, and of aspbaltum, or Greek 
pitch, each one ounce; of black pitch, half an ounce, 
and of Burgundy pitch, a quarter of an ounce. The 
aspbaltum must be pounded in a mortar, and the 
wax melted over a slow fire, in a pot of glazed 
earthenware; and the rest of the ingredients added 
little by little, stirring the mixture accordingly, 
till the whole be well melted and incorporated; 
and taking care that the matter be not suffered to 
burn. Afterwards throw the whole mass into an 
earthen vessel full of clean water, and knead it 
with the hands, to form it into little balls; and tlien 
roll them up in new strong taft"ety for use. 

Another soft vnmish. — Take of virgin-wax, two 
ounces and a half, of Burgundy pitch, three ounces, 
of resin, half an ounce, aspbaltum, two ounces, 
and turpentine, one penny-worth: this varnish is 
veiy good, and well ajiproved. The preparation 
is the same as that of those already given. 
Laiorence''s soft varnish. 

Take of virgin-M'ax and aspbaltum, each two 
ounces, of black pitch and Burgundy pitch, each 
half an ounce. Melt the wax and pitch in a new 
earthen-ware glazed pot, and add to them, by de- 
grees, the aspbaltum finely powdered. Let tlie 
whole boil till such time, as that taking a drop 
upon a plate, it will break when it is cold, on 
bending it double three or four times, betwixt the 
fingers; the varnish being then enough boiled, must 
be taken ofi:' the fire, and having been suliered to 
cool a little, must be poured into warm water, that 
it may work the more easily witli the hands, so as 
to be formed into balls, which must be wrapt in 
tafiVty for use. 

It must be observed, first, that the fire be not too 
violent, for fear of burning the ingredients; a slight 
simmering will be sufficient: 2dly, that while the 
asphaltum is putting in, and even after it is mixt 
with them, the ingredients should be stirred con- 
tinually with a spatula; and .^dly, that the water, 
into which tliis composition is thrown, should be 
nearly of tlie same degree of warmth with it, to 
prevent a kind of cracking that happens when the 
water is too cold. 

The varnish ought always to be harder in sum- 
mer tl;an in winter, and it will become so, if it be 
suffered to boil longer, or if a gi-eater proportion 
of the aspbaltum or brown resin be used. 

7o applt/ noft varnish to copper plates. 

The plate being well polished ancf burnished, 
also cleansed from all greasiness, by chalk or Spa- 
nish white, put it upon a chafing-dish, in which 
there is a moderate fire, obser\'ing to hold it so that 
it may not burn. It is to be left over tlie fire, till 
it be so hot that the varnish, being brought in con- 
tact with it, may melt. Then take some of the 
soft varnish well wrapt up in taffety, that is free 
from all grease and dirt, and also strong and sound 
in every part. With this rub the plate, fixed over 
the fire till it grow hot. In doing this, it should 
be gently passed from one side to the other in a 
right line, so as to form several rows, till the plate 
be every where moderately covered. After this, 
M'iih a f.ort of l)all made of cotton, tied up in taffety, 
beat every part of the plate gently, while the var^* 
nish isyetinafluid state; and to unite it still rnore» 
and give it a finer grain, it is proper to take tha 

Qi 



78 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



plate from'the fire immerViately, and continue strik- 
ing it on every part with the ball, till it attain a 
harder consistence in cooliiip;. Tiiis nmst not, 
nevertheless, be prolonged tlil the varnisii he too 
cold, for tlien the ball would be apt to make it rise 
from the plate. 

Le Basse's hard varnish. 

Take of Greek or Burgundy pitch and resin, or 
colophony of Tyre, or common resin, each two 
ounces. Melt them togetiier upon a moderate fire, 
in a new earthen pot, well glazed; and, these in- 
gredients being thoroughly mixt, put to them eight 
ounces of good nut, or linseed oil, and incorporate 
the whole well together, over the fire, for a full 
lialfhour. Continue afterwards to boil the mix- 
ture till such time as, having taken a little of it 
out, and suffered it to cool, it ropes on touching it 
•with the finger, like a very thick syrup. Take the 
pot then from the fire, and the varnish being a lit- 
tle cooled, pass it through a new linen cloth, into 
some vessel that will not soak it up, and can be well 
corked. Varnish made in this manner, may be 
kept for twenty years, and will, indeed be the bet- 
ter for age. 

To blacken the varnish. 

When the plate is uniformly and thinly covered 
■with the varnisii, it must be blackened by a piece 
of flambeau, or large wax candle whicli affords a 
copious smoke: sometimes 2, or even 4 such can- 
tiles are used together, for the sake of dispatcli, 
that the varnish may not grow cold during the ope- 
ration. The plate must be heated again, that it 
may be in a melted state when the operation of 
blackening is performed; but great care must be 
taken not to burn it, which may be easily perceiv- 
ed by the varnish smoking and running into little 
lumps, as if it had contracted some foulness. 

It is proper likewise to be very cautions in keep- 
ing the flambeau or candle at a due distance from 
tlie plate, for fear the wick should touch the var- 
nish, which would both sully and mark it. If it 
aopear that the black has not penetrated the var- 
nish, the plate must be again (ilaced, for a short 
time, over the chafing-dish; and it will be found, 
tliat in proportion as the plate grows hot, the var- 
nisii will melt and incorporate with tlie black, 
■which lay above it, in such a manner tliat the whole 
will be equally pervaded by it. 

Above all things, the greatest caution shovdd be 
ased in this operation to keep a moderate fire all 
the time, and to move the plate frequently, and 
change the place of all the parts of it, that the var- 
nisii may he alike melted every where, and be 
kept from burning. Care must be taken, that du- 
ring this time, and even till the varnish be entirely 
cold, no filth, sparks, nor dust, fly on it, for they 
■would then slick fast and spoil the work. 

To apply hard varnish to copperplates. 

The plate being perfectly cleansed and freed 
from greasiness, must be put on a chafing-dish, 
containing a small fire; and when it is become mo- 
derately hot, it must be taken oft' again, in order 
to receive the varnish, whicli must be thus laid on: 
•■^Take a proper quantity of the varnish, and ])ut- 
ting it on the end of the finger with a stick or other 
small instrument, touch tlie plate with it gently, 
in order that it may be spread in small spots of the 
same size, at as equal distances as possible over 
every part; and if the plate cool too much before 
the whole be finished, heat it again as at first, care- 
fully preserving it, nevertheless, from any dust or 
foulness that may be liable to fall upon it. When 
this is done, spread the varnish with a little ball, 
-or puft', made of the cotton and taftVty, as is done 
in the case of the soft varnisii. 
To take soft variiish ojf the plates tuhen the corro- 
sion isf.ninhed. 

When the soft varnish io to he taken oft", after 



finishing the corrosion, the plate must firs: be 
warmed at the fire, and the border of wax rouvl it 
removed. Then it must be made hotter till tlie 
mixture or composition, as well as the vatnish 
melt, when it must be well wiped with a cieaa 
linen cloth, afterwards rubbed heartily in every 
part with oil of olives: which being perform«sd, it- 
is ready to be re-touched by the graver, if there b<? 
occasion. 

To remove the hard varnish. 

Choose a very soft coal of fallow -wood, anfl, 
without burning it, strip off" the bark, and then 
dipping it in water, of which some likewise should 
be poured on the plate, rub tlie varnish with it, 
but continually the same way as in polishing the 
copper, which will take oft" the varnish. Be par- 
ticularly careful, nevertheless, to prevent any gra- 
vel from falling on the plate; as also to observe 
that there are no hard grains in the coal, for either 
of these would make scratches on the plate, which 
would be V ery difticiilt to efface, especially upori 
the tender parts. 

To cleanse copperplates after the remt/val of thi 
varnish. 

When the varnisii is all taken off from the plate, 
the copper remains of a disagreeable colour, from 
the efl'ect the fire and water liave liad upon it; but 
in order to restore it to its usual appearance, use 
this method;^Take some of the refiners' aqitu 
fortis, and if it be pure, put two-tiurds, or more, 
of water to it. Then take a linen rag dipped id 
the arjua fortis thus lowered with -water, and ruh 
with it all the engraved parts of the copper, by 
which it will be found to become bright and clean, 
and of the common colour of copper. 

Wipe the plate immediately after this witli an- 
other linen rag that is dry antl clean, till not tlie 
least of the acpia fortis and water remain on it, and 
pour upon it afterwards a little olive oil, and witli 
a small piece of old hat, or other such thing, rub 
the oil strongly over every part of it. After this 
clean the plate with a linen cloth, being cautious 
not to employ the rag for that purpose which had 
been used to wipe oft" the refiners' aquafortis. 
To pirefnire box-ivood for engraving. 

The wood being chosen, and cut into a propeif 
form and size, it must be planed as even and trulv 
as possible, and will be then ready to receive the 
drawing or chalking, of the design to be en- 
graved. * 

Now take white lead and temper it with -water 
by grinding; then spread it first thinly on the stir- 
face by a brush pencil, and afterwards rub it well 
witli a fine linen rag, while yet wet, and, when it 
is dry, brush oft" any loose or powdery part by a 
soft pencil. 

If the design be sketched on the wood by dra'w- 
ing, it may be done by Indian or common ink (but 
the first is far preferable), either by a pen or pen- 
cil, or by a black-lead pencil, though that scarcely 
marks strong enough for finer work. 

To free copperplates from grease. 

When the plates are designed for etching, being 
thus finished with the burnisher, they should be 
well washed with clean water, and then dried by 
the fire. After which they should be wiped dry 
with a linen cloth; and to be cei-tain that thei-e 
may be no kind of grease upon them they should 
be rubbed over with the crumb of very stale brea(L 
Scraping very soft chalk over it, and nibbing the 
plate wiill, are very sure means of preventing either 
any grease, bread, or other foulness whatever re- 
maining. 

To seaire copperplates from corrosion. 

Take equal parts of wax and turpentine, and 

.1 double the (piantity of olive oil, \\ itli the same 

<|Uanuty of hog's lard. Alelt the whole over the 

fire in an eajllien vessel, taking care to mix tlie 



ENGRA\7KG. 



79 



mgi-edients well, and leave them to boil some 
time, till they be well incorporated. _ 

The advantage of this mixture is, that it may at 
any time, being warmed, be put with the finger on 
the places desired to be covered; by which means 
the further operation of the aqua fortis on such 
places, may be instantly prevented without any 
other trouble or preparation, or without interrupt- 
ing or delaying the principal operation. 

This mixture may be employed equally well 
vith the hard as with the soft varnish; the inten- 
tion of using subh a composition is, if any scratches 
or false strokes happen in the etching, they are to 
be stopped out with a hair pencil dipped in this 
composition mixed with lamp-black, previously 
to laying on the aqua fortis, or as it is called, bit- 
ing in. 

To choose copper for engraving. 

Plates intended for engraving ought to be of the 
best copper, which should be very malleable, firm, 
and with some degree of hardness, free from veins, 
or specks, or dissimilar parts. The redness of 
copper is a presumptive mark of its being good, 
but not an infallible one; for though it is, in gene- 
ral, a proof of the purity of the copper, yet it does 
not evince that tlie quantities may not be injured 
by to^ frequent infusion. 

Copper-i)lates may be had ready prepared in 
most large towns; but when these cannot be had, 
procure a pretty thick sheet of copper, rather 
larger than tiie drawing, and Let the brazier plan- 
ish it well; then take a piece of pumice-stone, and 
with water rub it all one way, till it becomes toler- 
ably smooth and level; a piece of cliarcoal is next 
used with water for polishing it still farther, and 
removing the deep scratches made by the pumice- 
stone, and it is then finished witli a piece of char- 
coal of a finer grain, witli a little oil. 
I'o engrave in mezzolinto. 

This art is recommended for the amazing ease 
with which it is executed, especially by those who 
have any notion of drawing. , 

Mezzotinto prints are those which have 'no 
hatching or strokes of the graver, but whose lights 
and shades are blended together, and appear like 
a drawing of Indian ink. 

The tools used in this art, after procuring a 
well-polished copperplate, are — oil-stone, ground- 
ing-tools, scrapers, burnishers, and needles. 
To lay the ground. 

Mark off upon tlie bottom of the plate the dis- 
tance intended for the writing, coat of arms, kc. 
then lay the plate, with a piece of swan-skin flan- 
nel under it, upon the table, hold the grounding- 
tool in the Jiand perpendicularly; lean upon it mo- 
derately hard, continually rocking the hand in a 
right line from end to end, till the plate is wholly 
covered iu one direction: next cross the strokes 
from side to side, afterwards from corner to cor- 
ner, working the tool each time all over the plate, 
in every direction, almost like the points of a com- 
pass; taking all possible care not to let the tool cut 
(ih one direction) twice in a place. ■* This done, 
tlie plate will be full, or. all rough alike, and 
would, if it were printed, appear completely 
black. ' 

Having laid the ground, take the scrapings of 
black chalk, and witli a piece of rag, rub them 
over the plate; or, with two or three candles, 
smoke it, as before directed foretelling. 

Now take the print or drawing, and having rub- 
bed the back with red chalk-dust, mixed with 
white lake, proceed to trace it on the plate. 
'J o -cv/iei the grounding-tool. 

If a tooth of the tool should break, it may be 
jierceived jn tlie working by a streak or gap, 
whicli will appear iu the ground ill a sti'aight line; j 



in which case the tool must be whetted on the 
back, holding it sloping, and in a circular manner, 
like the bottom of the tool. 

To scrape the picture. 

Take a blunt needle, anil mark the outlines 
only; then with a scraper, scrape off the lights in 
evei-y part of the plate, as clean and as smooth as 
possible, in proportion to the strength of the lights 
in the picture, taking care not to hurt the outlines: 
and in order to see belter, with the thumb and 
fore-finger of the left hand, hold a piece of trans- 
parent i)aper, sloping, just over the right hand, 
and the artist will soon be a judge of the different 
tints of the work he is doing; scraping off more or 
less of the ground, as the different strengths of 
lights and tints require. 

I'he use of the burnisher is to soften and rub 
down the extreme light parts after the scraper is 
done with: such as the tip of the nose, forehead, 
linen, &c. which might otherwise, when proved, 
a.ppear rather misty than clear. 

Another method. — Etch the outlines of the ori- 
ginal, as also of the folds in drapery, marking the 
breadth of the shadows by dots, which having bit 
of a proper colour with aqua fortis, take off the 
ground used in etching, and, having laid the mez- 
zotinto ground, proceed to scrape the plate as above. 

Four or five days before the plates are ready for 
proving, notice must be given to the rolling press 
printer to wet some French paper, or a thick mel- 
low paper in imitation of it, as that time is neces- 
sary for it to lie in wet. When the proof is dry, 
touch it with white chalk where it should be light- 
er, and with black chalk where it should be dark- 
er; and when the print is re-touched, proceed as 
before for the lights, and for the sliades use a small 
grounding-tool, as much as is necessary to bring 
it to the proper colour; and when this is done, 
prove it again, and so proceed to prove and touch 
till it is entirely finished. When the plate tar- 
nishes, a little vinegar and salt, kept in a phial, 
will take it oft", wiping it dry with a clean rag. 

Avoid as much as possible over-scraping any 
part before the first proving, as, by this caution, 
the work will appear the more elegant. , 
To engrave in aquatinta. 

This very mucli resembles drawing in Indian 
ink. This process consists in corroding the cop- 
per with aqua-fortis, in such a manner, that an im- 
pression from it has the appearance of a tint laid 
on the paper. This is eft'ected by covering thu 
copper with a substance which takes a granulated 
form, so as to prevent the aqua-fortis from acting 
where the particles adhere, and by this meana 
cause it to corrode the copper partially, and in in- 
terstices only. When these particles are extreme- 
ly minute, and near to each other, the impression 
from the plate appears to the naked eye like a 
wash of Indian ink. But when they are larger, 
the granulation is more distinct; and as this may 
be varied at pleasure, it is capable of being adapt- 
ed to a variety of purposes and subjects. 

The matter generally used for this purpose, is 
composed of equal parts of asphaltum and tra«s[)a- 
rent resin, reduced to powder and sifted on the 
plate, (which has been previously greased, ) through 
a fine sieve. The ])late is then heated so as ti> 
make the powder adhere, and the artist scrapes it 
away when a strong shade is wanted, and covers 
those parts with varnish where he wishes a very 
strong light to appear. The aqua-fortis, properly 
diluted with water, is then put on within a fence 
of wax, as in common etching for engraving, and 
by repeated applications, co\ering the light parts 
still with varnish, the effect is produced. 
To engrave on luood. 

The block is commonly made of pear-tree, or 



r.o 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Ijox, and difTcrs in thickness according to its size. || 
The surface for the engraving i,s on tlie transverse 
section of the wood; the subject is drawn upon it 
witli a i)en and Indian ink, with all the finishing 
tliat it is required to have in the impression. The 
spaces between the lines are cut away witli knives, 
chisels, and gouges, leaving the lines that have 
been drawn with tiie ink. 

The taking impressions from blocks of wood 
differs from that of copperplate in this, that in the 
latter they are delivered from the incision, while 
in the wooden blocks they are delivered from the 
raised part. 

CMar' oscuro. 

This method of engraving is performed with 
three blocks. The outline is cut in one, the deep 
shadows in a second, and the third jrives a tint 
over the whole, except where the lights are cut 
away. These are substituted in their turn, eacli 
print receiving an impression from each block. 
Tills mode of en^aving was designed to represent 
Uie drawings of the old masters. 

To etch vpon glass. 

Procure sevei-al thick clear pieces of crown 
glass, and immerse them in melted wax, so that 
each may receive a complete coating. When per- 
fectly cold, draw on them, witii a tine steel point, 
flowers, trees, houses, portraits, fee. Whatever 
parts of the drawing are intended to be corroded 
with the acid, should be perfectly free from the 
least particle of wax. When all these drawings 
are fiiiisheil, the pieces of glass must be immersed 
one by one in a scpiare leaden box or receiver, 
where they are to be submitted to the action of 
fluoric aciii, or fluoric acid gas. 

It will be necessary to have some water in the 
receiver for the absorption of tiie superabundant 
!^as; and the receiver thould hsive a short leaden 
pipe attached 'o it for tiie reception of the beak of 
the retort. ' .'i should be well luted witli wax. 
At the top ( . the receiver there is a sliding door 
for the admission of the plates: this is to be well 
luted v\>hiist the gas is acting. When the glasses 
are sufficiently corroded, they are to be taken out; 
and the wax is to be removed by first dipping them 
in warm, and then in hot water. Various colours 
may be applied to the corroded parts of the glass, 
whereby a very fine painting may be executed. In 
the same manner, sentences and initials of names 
luay be etched on wine-glasses, tumblers, Stc. 

Aiiotlier method. — Glass may also be etched, by 
immersing it in liquid fluoric acid, after having 
been coated with wax and drawn on, as in the last 
method. There is this diflerence, however, in the 
use of the liquid and the gas, that the former ren- 
ders the etching traiispai-eiit, whilst that produced 
by the gas is quite opaque. 

In this method the potass of the glass is set free, 
whilst the silex or sand is acted on; couse<[uently 
no vessel of glass can ever be employed with safely 
to contain this acid in a liquid state, as it would 
soon be corroded into holes: it is, therefore, gene- 
rally preserved in leaden bottles, on which it has 
ao power to act. 

Varjiiah coating preferable. 
5 In coating the glass with wax as above directed, 
it is almost impossible to lay it on sufficiently thin. 
Tlie consequence of this is, that the lines traced 
by the point will be found irregular, ragged, and 
destitute of that delicacy which is required. The 
strong varnish used by engravers answers much 
better, provided it be very carefully apldled. Be- 
fore doing so, the glass must be thoroughly clean- 
ed and heated, so that it can hardly be l>el<l. The 
varnibii is then to be applied lightly over, and 
made smooth by dabbing it v. ith small balls of silk, 
Btufl'tid Willi cotton. \Vlmu dry and even, the 



lines may be traced on it. the plate lying on a pane 
of glass fixed in a table, slightly inclined so that 
the light may be thrown under it. 
Simple method of etching glass, as applied to titer' 
mometers. 

Coat the glass to be graduated, &c. witli yellow 
wax, and trace with a steel point whatever is in- 
tended to be etched. Now dip the glass in sul- 
Y)huric acid, and shake over it some finely pulver- 
ized fluate of lime (fluor spar). This salt will be 
decomposed by the affinity of lime for sulpliuric 
acid. Accordingly the fluoric acid will be set free 
to attack the silica of the glass. Corrosion ol 
those parts which are uncove"ed by the wax, will 
be the consequence. 

To engrave on precious stones. 

The first thing to be done in this branch of en- 
graving, is to cement two rough diamonds to the 
ends of two sticks large enough to hold them stea- 
dy in the hand, and to rub or grind them against 
each other, till they be brought to the form desir- 
ed. The dust or powder that is rubbed oft', serves 
afterwards to polish them, which is performed by 
a kind of mill that turns a wheel of soft iron. The 
diamond is fixed in a brass dish; and, thus applied 
to the wheel, is covered with diamond dust, mix- 
ed up with oil of olives; and when the diamond is 
to be cut facet-wise, first one face, and then an- 
other is applied to the wheel. Rubies, sapphires, 
and topazes, are cut and formed the same way on 
a copper wheel, and polished with ti-ipoli diluted 
in water. Agates, amethysts, emeralds, hyacinths, 
granites, rubies, and others of the softer stones, 
are cut on a leaden wheel moistened with emeiy 
and water, and polished with tripoli on a pewter 
wheel. Lapis-lazuli, opal, &c. are polished on a 
wooden wheel. 

To fashion and engrave vases of agate, crystal, 
lapis-lazuli, or the like, a kind of lathe is made 
use of, similar to that used by pewterers, to hold 
the vessels, which are to be wrought with proper 
tools. The engraver's lathe generally holds the 
tools, which are turned by a wheel; and the vessel 
cut and engraved, either in relievo or otherwise; 
the tools being moistened from time to time with 
diamond dust and oil, or at least emery and water. 
To engrave figures or devices on any of these 
stones, when polished, such as medals, seals, &o. 
a little iron wheel is used, the ends of wliose axis 
are received within two pieces of iron, placed up- 
right, as in the turner's lathe; and to be brought 
closer, or set further apai't, at pleasure; at one end 
of the axis are fixed the proper tools, being kept 
tight by a screw. Lastly, the wheel is turned by 
the foot, and the stone applied by the hand to the tool, 
then shifted and conducted as occasion requires. 

The tools are generally of iron, and sometimes 
of brass; their form is various. ■ Some have small 
i-ound heads, like buttons, others like ferrels, 
to take the pieces out, and others flat, &c. When 
the stone has been engraved, it is polished on 
wheels of hair-brushes and tripoli. 

To enyrave upon steel. 

Steel blocks, or plates of sufficient size to re- 
ceive the intended engraving, are softened, or de- 
carbonated upon their substances, and thereby ren- 
dered a better material for receiving all kinds wf 
work, than even copper itself. After the intended 
wai'k has been executed upon the block, it is hard- 
ened with great cai-e by a new process, which jjre- 
venls injury to the most delicate work. A cylin- 
der of steel, previously softened, is then placed in 
the transferring press, and repeatedly passed over 
the engraved blocks, by which the engraving is 
ti-ansferred, in relief to the periiilieiy of the cy- 
linder, the press having a vibrating motion, equal- 
ling that of tte cylinder upon its axis, by which 



EXGRAATISG. 



81 



new surfaces are presented eriiialling; Ihe extent of 
engraving. This cylinder is then hardened, and 
is ready for indenting either copper or steel plates, 
■whicli is done by jjlacing it in the same press be- 
fore described, and repeatedly pressing it over the 
copper or steel plates, thereby producing another 
engraving identically like that upon the original 
block. This may be repeated upon any required 
nnmber of plates, as tlie original engraving will 
remain to produce other cylinders, if ever requir- 
ed, and when transferred to steel plates, and hard- 
ened, they will also serve as additional matrices 
for live production of new cylinders, I 



Etcliing Hfpiov for plates of soft steel. 

Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of corrosive subli« 
mate and the same quantity of alum, both powder- 
ed, in half a pint of hot water. 

Dissections fur use. 

When cold, pour it on to your plate, and keep 
stiiring it with a camels' hair brush; wash the 
plate perfectly after each biting, and throw away 
tlie portion of liquid you have emjjloyed; delicate 
tints are obtained in about three minutes, stronger 
ones in proportion. 



To prepare mordants. 

Dyeing is a chemical process, and consists in 
combining a certain colouring matter with fibres 
of cloth. The facility with which cloth imbibes a 
dye, depends upon two circumstances; the union 
of the cloth and tlie dye-stuff, and the union of the 
<lye-stufF, or dyeing material, and the fluid in which 
it is dissolved. Wool unites with almost all co- 
loiU'ing matters, silk in the next degree, cotton 
considerably less, and linen the least of all. To 
dye cotton or linen, the dj'e-stuff, or colouring ma- 
terial, should, in many cases, be dissolved in a 
substance for which it has a weaker connexion than 
with the solvent employed in the dyeing of wool 
or silk. Thus we may use the colour called oxide 
of iron, dissolved in sulphuric acid, to dye wool; 
but to dye cotton and linen, it is necessary to dis- 
solve it m acetous acid. Were it possible to pro- 
cure a sufficient number of colouring substances, 
having a strong affinity for cloths, to answer all the 
jmrposes of dyeing, that art would be exceedingly 
simple and easy. IJut this is by no means the case. 
This difficulty has, however, been obviated by a very 
ingenious contrivance. Some other substance is 
employed which strongly unites with the cloth and 
the colouring matter. This substance, therefore, 
is previously combined with the cloth, which is 
then dipped into a solution containing the colour. 
The colour then combines with the intermediate 
substance, which, being firmly combined with the 
cloth, secures the perman^ice of the dye. Sub- 
stances employed for this purpose ai-e denominated 
mordants. 

To choose and apply them. 

The most important part of dyeing is, therefore, 
the choice and application of mordants; as upon 
them, the permanency of almost every dye depends. 
Mordants must be previously dissolved in some li- 
quid, which has a weaker union with the mordants 
^lan the clotli has; and the cloth m':st then be 
steeped in this solution, so as to saturate itself with 
the mordant. The most important, and most gene- 
rally usJd mordant is alumine. It is used either in 
a state of common alum, in which it is combined 
■with sulphuric acid, or in that state called acetite 
of alumine. 

Use of alum cs a mordant. 

Alum, to make a mordant, is dissolved in water, 
and very frequently, a quantity of tartrate of potass 
is dissolved with it. Into this solution woollen 
cloth is put, and kept in it till it has absorbed as 
much alumine as is necessary. It is then taken 
oiit, and for the most part washed and dried. It is 



now a good deal heavier than it was before, OAving 
to the alum which has combined with it. 
Acetite of alumine 

Ts prepared as a mordant by pouring acetite of 
lead into a solution of alum. This mordant is em- 
ployed for COTTON and lin ex. It answers for these 
much better than alum; the stuff is more easily sa- 
tiu-ated with alumine, and takes, in consequence, 
a richer and more permanent colour. 
White oxide of tin. 

This mordant has enabled the moderns greatly 
to surpass many of the ancients in the fineness of 
their colours; and even to eq"al the famous Tyi-ian 
purple; and by means of it ^ let, the brightest of 
all colours, is produced. It is he white oxide of 
tin, alone, which is the real mordant. 

Tin is used as a mordant in three states: dissolv- 
ed in nitro-muriatic acid, in acetous acid, and in a. 
mixture of sulphuric and muriatic acids; but nitro- 
muriate of tin is the common mordant employed by 
dyem. 'i'hey prepare it by dissolving tin in dilut- 
ed nitric acid, to which a certain proportion of 
common salt, or sal ammoniac, is added. 

When tlie nitro-rauriate of tin is to be used as a 
mordant, it is dissolved in a large quantity of water, 
and the cloth is dipped in the solution, and alloweil 
to remain till sufficiently saturated. It is then taken 
out, washed and dried. Tartar is usually dissolv- 
ed in the water along with the nitro-muriate. 
Jted oxide of iron. 

This is also used as a mordant in dyeing; it has 
a very strong affinity for all kinds of cloth, of which 
the permanency of red iron-spots, or iron-moulds, 
on linen and cotton is a sufficient proof. As a mor- 
dant it is used in two states: in that of sulphate of 
iron, or copperas, and that of acetite of iron. The 
first, or copperas, is commonly used for -ivool. The 
copperas is dissolved in water, and the cloth dipp- 
ed into it. It may be used also for cotton, but in 
most cases acetite of iron is preferred, which is 
prepared by dissolving iron, or its oxide, in vine- 
gar, sour beer, or pyroligneous acid, and the longer 
it is kept tlie better. 

Tan, &c. 

Tan is very frequently employed as a morCant. 
An mfusion of nut-galls, or of sumach, or of anj 
other suljstance containing tan, is made in water, 
and the cloth is dipped in tnis infusion, and allowed 
to remain till it has absorbed a sufficient quantity. 
Tan is often employed also, along with other mor- 
dants, to produce a compound mordant. Oil is also 
used for the same purpose, in dj'eing cotton and 
linen. The moinlauts with which tan is most fre- 



82 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



quently combined, are alumine, and oxide of 
iron. 

Besides these mordants, there are several other 
substances frequently used as auxiliaries, either to 
fiicilitate the combination of the mordant with the 
clotii or to alter the shade of colour; the chief of 
these are, tartar, acetate of lead, commoa salt, sal 
ammoniac, sulphate of copper, &c. 

jNlorcTaiits not only render the dye permanent, 
but have also considerable influence on the colour 
produced. The same colom-ing matter produces 
very difTc rent dyes, according as the mordant is 
changed. Suppose, for instance, that the colouring 
matter is cochineal; if we use the aluminous mor- 
dant, tlie cloth will acquire a crimson colour; but 
the oxule of iron produces with it, a black. 

In dyeing, then, it is not only necessary to pro- 
cure a mordant which has a sufficiently strong affi- 
nity for the colouring matter and the cloth, and a 
colouring matter which possesses the wished-for 
colour in perfection; but we must procure a mor- 
dant and a colouring matter of such a nature, that 
when combined together, they sliall possess the 
wished-for colour in perfection; and even a great 
variety of colours may be produced with a single 
dye-stuff, provided we change the mordant suffi- 
ciently. 

To determine the effects of various salts or mor- 
dants on colours. 
The dye of madder. 

For a madder red on woollens, the best quantity 
of madder is one half of the weight of the woollens 
that are to be dyed; the best proportion of salts to 
be used is five parts of alum and one of red tartar 
for sixteen parts of the stuff. 

A variation iu the proportions of the salts, wholly 
alters the colour that the madder naturally gives. 
If the alum is lessened, and the tartar increased, the 
dye proves a red cinnamon. If the alum be entirely 
omitted, the red wholly disappears, and a durable 
tawny cinnamon is produced. 

If woollens are boiled in weak pearl-ash and wa- 
ter, the greater part of the colour is destroyed. A 
solution of soap discharges part of the colour, and 
leaves the remaining more beautiful. 

Volatile alkalies heighten the red colour of the 
madder, but they make the dye fugitive. 
The dye of logwood. 

Volatile alkaline salts or acids incline this to 
purple; the vegetable and nitrous acids render it 
pale; the vitriolic and marine acids deepen it. 
Lime water. 

In dyeing browns or blacks, especiallj- browns, 
lime water is found to be a good corrective, as also 
an alterative, when the goods are not come to the 
shade required; but practice alone can show its 
utility; it answers for either woollens, silks, or cot- 
tons. 

To render colours holding. 

Browns and blues, or shades from them, require 
no preparation; but reds and yellowd, either of silk, 
cotton, or woollen, require a preparation to make 
triem receive the dye, and hold it fast when it has 
received it. Alum and tartar, boiled together, 
when cold, form a mastic, within the pores of the 
substance, that serves to retain the dye, and reflect 
tlie colour in a manner transparently. 

Almost all browns are deemed fast and holding 
colours, without any pi*epai-ation: the dyeing ma- 
terials containing in themselves a sufficient degree 
of astringent quality to retain their own colours. 
Many reds are also equally holding, but none more 
so than those 'made with madder on woollens pre- 
pared with alum and tartar. 

A very fast red is also made with Brazil wood, 
by boiling the woollen in alum and tartar, and suf- 
fenng the cloth to remain several days iu a bag 



kept moist by the preparation liquor. The cause 
of the solidity of the colour from Brazil wood 
dyed after this method, arises from the alum and 
tartar masticating itself within the pores of the 
wool in quite a solid state. 

There is not a drug used in the whole art of 
dyeing, but may be made a permanent dye, by 
finding out a salt, or solution of some metal, that, 
when once dissolved by acids, or by boiling water, 
will neither be affected by the air, nor be dissolved 
by moisture. Such are alum and tartar, the solu- 
tion of tin, &c. But these salts and solutions do 
not answer with all ingredients that are used in 
dyeing. 

To purchase dyei^ig materials. 

The names of the principal dj'eing materials are 
alum, argol, or tartar, green copperas, verdigris, 
blue vitriol, roche alum, American or quercitron, 
and oak bark, fenugreek, logwood, old and young 
fustic, Brazil wood, braziletto, camwood, barsvood, 
and other red woods, peach wood, sumach, galls, 
weld, madder of 3 or 4 sorts, safflower, savory, 
green wood, annatto, turmeric, archil, cudbear, 
cochineal, lac cake, lac dye, and indigo. The 
whole may be purchased of druggists and colour- 
men. 
To dye ivool andiooollen cloths of a blue colour. 

Dissolve one part of indigo in four parts of con- 
centrated sulphuric acid; to the solution, add one 
part of dry carbonate of potass, and then dilute it 
with eight times its weight of water. The cloth 
must be boiled for an liour in a solution, contain- 
ing 5 parts of alum, and 3 of tartar, for every 32 
parts of cloth. It is then to be thrown into a water- 
hath previously prepared, containing a greater or 
smaller proportion of diluted sulphate of indigo, 
according to the shade which the cloth is intended 
to receive. In this hath it must be boiled till it has 
acquired the wished-for colour. 

The only colouring matters employed in dyeing 
blue, are woad and indigo. 

Indigo has a very strong affinity for wool, silk, 
cotton, and linen. Every kind of cloth, therefore, 
may be dyed with it, without the assistance of any 
mordant whatever. The colour thus induced is 
very permanent. But indigo can only be applied 
to cloth in a state of solution, and the only solvent 
known is sulphuric acid. The sulphate of indigo 
is often used to dye wool and silk blue, and is 
known by the name of Saxon blue. 

It is not the only solution of that pigment era- 
ployed in dyeing. By far the most common me- 
thod is, to deprive indigo of its blue colour, and 
reduce it to green, and tlien to dissolve it in water 
by means of alkalies. Two different methods are 
employed for this purpose. The first is, to mix 
with indigo a solution of green oxide of iron, and 
different metallic sulphurets. If, therefore, indigo, 
lime, and green sulphate of iron, are mixed toge- 
ther in water, the indigo gradually loses its blue 
colour, becomes green, and is dissolved. The se- 
cond meihod is, to mix the indigo, in water, with 
certain vegetable substances which readily undergo 
fermentation; the indigo is dissolved by means of 
quick lime or alkali, which is added to the solution. 

Thejii'st of these methods is usually followed in 
dyeing cotton and linen} the aeco7id, iu dyeing -aiooi 
anil silk. 

In the dyeing of wool, woad and bran are com- 
monly employed as vegetable ferments, and lime 
asthesolventof the green base of the indigo. Woad 
itself contains a colouring matter precisely similar 
to indigo; and by following the common process, 
indigo may be extracted from it. In the usual 
state of woad, when purchased by the dyer, the in- 
digo, which it contains, is probably not far from 
the state of green pollen. Its quantity in woad i» 



DYEING. 



83 



but small, and it is mixed with a great proportion 
of other vegetable matter. 

When the cloth is first taken out of the vat, it is 
of a green colour; but it soon becomes blue. It 
ought to be carefullj washed, to carry off the un- 
combined particles. This solution of indigo is lia- 
ble to two inconveniences: first, it is apt some- 
times to run too fast into the putrid fermentation; 
this may be known by the putrid vapours which it 
exhales, and by the disappearing of the green co- 
lour. In this state it would soon destroy the in- 
digo altogether. The inconvenience is remedied 
by adding more lime, which has the property of 
moderating the putrescent tendency. Secondly, 
sometimes the fermentation goes on too languidly. 
This defect is remedied by adding more bran, or 
■woad, in order to diminish the proportion of thick 
lime. 

To make chemic blue and green. 
Chemic for light blues and greens, on silk, cot- 
ton, or woollen, and for cleaning and wliitening 
cottons, is made by the following process: — 

Take 1 lb. of the best oil of vitriol, which pour 
upon 1 ounce of the best Spanish flora indigo, well 
pounded and sifted; add to this, after it has been 
well stiiTed, a small lump of common pearl-ash as 
big as a pea, or from that to the size of 2 peas; this 
■will immediately raise a great fermentation, and 
cause the indigo to dissolve in minuter and finer 
particles than otherwise. As soon as this fermen- 
tation ceases, put it into a bottle tightly corked, 
and it may be used tlie next day. Observe, if more 
than tlie quantity prescribed of pearl asli should be 
used, it will deaden and sully the colour. 

Chemic for green, as above for blue, is made by 
only adding one-fourth more of the oil of vitriol. 

If the chemic is to be used for woollen. East In- 
dia indigo will answer the purpose even better than 
Spanish indigo, and at one quarter of the price; but 
the oil of viti'iol is good for both. 

To make a solution of tin in aqua regia. 
Mix together 8 ounces of filtered river water, 
and 8 ounces of double aqua fortis; add gradually 
half an ounce of sal ammoniac dissolved piece by 
piece, and 2 drachms of salt-petre. Tlien take I 
ounce of refined block tin: put it into an iron pan, 
and Set it over the fire; when melted, hold it 4 or 
5 feet over tlie vessel, and drop it into water, so as 
to let it fall in pieces. 

Next put a small piece of this granulated tin into 
the above aqua-regia, and when the last piece dis- 
appears, add more gradually till the whole is mix- 
ed; mind and keep it firmly corked. When finished 
it will produce a most excellent yellow, though 
should it fail in that respect, it will not be the 
worse for use; keep it cool, as heat will injure and 
even spoil it. 

To make muriate of tin. 
Take 8 ounces of muriatic acid, and dissolve in 
it, by slow degrees, half an ounce of granulated 
tin; when this is done pour off the clear liquid into 
a bottle and weaken it, if reqxiired, with pure fil- 
tered river water. 

To determine the effect of various -waters on differ- 
ent colours. 
Snow water contains a little muriate of lime, and 
some slight ti-aces of nitrate of lime; rain water has 
the same salts in a larger quantity, and also carbo- 
nic acid; spring water most frequently contains 
carbonate of lime, muriate of lime, muriate of soda, 
or carbonate of soda. River water has the same sub- 
stances, but in less abundance. Well water contains 
sulphate of lime or nitrate of pot-ash besides the 
above-named salts. Should the water contain a salt, 
or a mineral acid, in the first instance, an acid will 
be requisite to neutralize it, and iu the second, aa 



alkali. Thus waters of any quality may be saturat- 
ed by their opposites, and rendered neutral. 
To dischars^e colours. 
The dyers generally piii all coloured silks which 
are to be discharged, into a copper in which half a 
pound or a pound of white soap has been dissolved. 
They are then boiled off, and when the copper 
begins to be too full of colour, the silks are taken 
out and rinsed in warm water. In the interim a 
fresh solution of soap is to be added to the copper, 
and then proceed as before till all the colour is dis- 
charged. For those colours that are wanted to be 
effectually discharged, such as greys, cinnamons, 
&c. when soap does not do, tartar must be used. 
For slate colours, gi-eenish di-abs, olive drabs, 8cc. 
oil of vitriol in warm water must be used; if other 
colours, roche alum must be boiled in the copper, 
then coole.d down and the silks entered and boiled 
off, recollecting to rinse them before they are again 
dyed. A small quantity of muriatic acid, diluted 
in warm water, must be used to discharge some 
fast colours; the goods must be afterwards well 
rinsed in warm and cold water to prevent anyinjui-y 
to the stalk. 

To discharge cinnamons, greys, &c, -zvhen dijed 
toofiul. 

Take some tartar, pounded in a mortar, sift it 
into a bucket, then pour over it some boiling wa- 
ter. The silks, &c. may then be run througii the 
clearest of this liquor, which will discharge the co- 
lour; but if the dye does not take on again evenly, 
more tartar may be added, and the goods run 
through as before. 
To re-dye, or change the colours of garments, &c. 

The change of colour depends upon the ingredi- 
ents witli which the garments have been dyed. 
Sometimes when these have been well cleaned, 
more dyeing stuft'must be added, which will aftbrd 
the colour intended; s^nd sometimes tlie colour al- 
ready on the cloth must be discharged and the ar- 
ticle re-dyed. 

Eveiy colour in nature will dye black, whether 
blue, yellow, red or brown, and black will always 
dye black again. All colours will take the sarrie 
colour again which they already possess; and blues 
can be m.ade green or black; green may be made 
brown, and brown green, and every colour on re- 
dyeing will take a darker tint than at first. 

Yellows, browns, and blues, are not easily dds« 
charged; maroons, reds of some kinds, olis'es, &c. 
may be dischai'ged. 

For maroons, a small quantity of roche alum 
may be boiled in a copper, and when it is dissolv- 
ed, put iu the goods, keep them boiling, and pro- 
bably, in a few minutes, enough of it will be dis- 
charged to take tlie colour intended. 

Olives, greys, &c. are discharged by putting in 
two or three table spoonsful, more or less, of oil 
of vitriol: then put in the garment, &c. and boil, 
and it will become white. If chemic green, either 
alum, pearl-ash, or soap, will discharge it off to 
the yellow; this yellow may mostly be boiled off 
with soap, if it has received a preparation for tak- 
ing the chemic blue. Muriatic acid used at a hand 
heat will discharge most coloiu-s. A black may 
be dyed maroon, tlaret, green, or a dark brown; 
and it often happens tliat black is dyed claret, 
green, or dark brown; but green is tlie principal 
colour into which black is changed. 
To alum silks. 

Silk should be alumed cold, for when it is alum- 
ed hot, it is deprived of a great part of its lustre. 
The alum liquor should always be strong for silks, 
as they take the dye more readily afterwards. 
To dye silk blue. 

Silk is dyed light blue by a ferment of six parts 



84 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



of bran, six of indigo, sis of potass, and one of 
madder. To dye it of a dark hluo, it must previ- 
ously receive wiiat \^ (m\Ic(.\ !\ Cfrounil-colour; a red 
dye-stuff, called arci.il, is used ihv tliis puriiose. 
'J'o (life cotton and liiwii blue. 
Cotton and linen are dyed blue by a solution of 
one part of iiuligo, one part of green sulphate of 
iron, and two parts of quick-liiuc. 
Ydiow dyes. 
The principal colouring; matters for dyeing yel- 
low, are weld, fustic, and quercitron bark.. Yel- 
low colouring matters have too weak an atTinity 
for cloth, to \)roduce permanent colours without 
\he use of mordanttt. Cloth, therefore, before it 
is dyed yellow, is always prepared by soaking it 
in alumine. Oxide of tin is sometimes used when 
very fine yellows are wanting. Tan is often em- 
ployed as subsidiary to alumina, and in or(Ier to 
fix It more copiously on cotton and linen. Tartar 
is also used as an auxiliary, to briijhten Uie colour; 
and muriate of soda, sulphate ot lime, and even 
sulphate of iron, to render the shade deeper. 
The yellow dye by means of fustic is more perma- 
nent, but not so beautiful as that given by weld, 
Oi' quercitron. As it is permanent, and not much 
injured by acids, it is often used in dyeing com- 
pound colours, where a yellow is required. The 
mordani is alumine. When the mordant is oxide 
of iron, fustic dyes a good permanent drab colour. 
Weld and quercitron bark yield nearly the same 
kind of colour; but the bark yields colouring mat- 
ter in greater abundance and is cheaper than weld. 
The method of using each of these dye-stuffs is 
nearly the same. 

To di/e -woolhns yello-^v. 
Wool may be dyed yellow by the following pro- 
cess; let it be boiled for an hour, or more, with 
above one-sixth of its weight of alum, dissolved in 
a sufficient quantity of water as a mordant. It is 
lh:a to be plunged, without being rinsed, into a 
bath of warm water, containing as much querci- 
tron bark as equals the weight of the alum em- 
ployed as a mordant. The cloth is to be turned 
through the boiling liquid, till it has acquired the 
intended colour. Then, a quantity of clean pow- 
dered chalk, equal to the hundreth part of the 
•weight of the cloth, is to be stirred iu, and the 
operation of dyeing continued for eight or ten mi- 
nutes longer. By this method a pretty deep and 
lively yellow may be given. 

For very bright orange, or golden yellow, it k 
necessary to use the oxide of tin as a mordant. 
Por producing bright golden yellows, some alum 
must be added along with the tin. To give the 
yellow a delicate green shade, tartar nmst be 
added ia different proportions, according to the 
shade. 

To dye silks yeUo-oj. 
Silk may be dyed of different shades of yellow, 
either by weld or quercitron bark, but the last is 
the cheapest of the two. The proportion should 
be from one to two parts of bark, to twelve parts 
of silk, according to the shade. The bark, tied 
lip in a bag, should be put into the dyeing vessel, 
•whilst the water which it contains is cold; and 
■when it has acquired the heat of about lOJ degrees, 
tlie silk, having been previously alumed, should be 
•lipped in, and continued, till it assumes the wish- 
cd-for colour. When the shade is required to be 
deep, a little chalk, or pearl-ash, should be added 
towards the end of the operation. 

To dye linens and cottons yelloxo. 
The mordant should be acetate of alumine, pre- 
pared by dissolving one pa?t of acetate of lead, and 
three parts of alum, in a sufficient quantity of wa- 
ter. This solution should be heated to the tem- 
perature of 100 diigrces: the cloth bhould be soak- 



ed in it for two hours, then wrung out ?nd dried. 
The soaking may be repeated, and tlie cloth again 
dried as before'. It is then to be barely wetted 
with lime-water, and afterwards dried. Tlie soak- 
ing in the acetate of alumine may be again repeat- 
ed; and if the tha<Ie of yellow is required to be 
very bright and duiable, the alternate wetting with 
lime-water and soaking in the mordant may be re- 
peated tliree or four times. 

The dyeing-bath is prepared by putting 12 or IS 
parts of quercitron bark (according to the depth of 
the shade required), tied up in a bag, into a suf- 
ficient quantity of cold water. Into this bath the 
cloth is to be put, and turned in it for an hour, 
while its temperature is gradually raised to about 
120 degrees. It is then to be brought to a boiling 
heat, and the cloth allowed to remain in it only for 
a few minutes. If it is kept long at a boiling heat, 
the yellow acquires a shade of brown. 
To fix afi,ne mineval yello-M upon wool, silk, cot- 
ton, hemp, &c. 

Mix one pound of sulphur, two pounds of white 
oxide of arsenic, and five parts of pearl-ash; and 
melt the whole in a crucible, at a heat a little 
short of redness. The result is a yellow mass, 
which is to be dissolved in hot water; and the li- 
quor filtrated, to separate it from a sediment form- 
ed chiefly of metallic arsenic, in shining plates, 
and in a small part, of a chocolate-coloured mat- 
ter, which appears to be a sub-sulphuret of arsenic. 
Dilute the filtrated liquor, then add weak sulphu- 
ric acid, which produces a flocculent precipitate, 
of a most brilliant yellow colour. This precipitate, 
washed upon a cloth filter, dissolves with the ut- 
most ease in liquid ammonia, giving a yellow so- 
lution, which colour is to be removed by au ex- 
cess of the same alkali. 

To prepare realgar. 

The most brilliant and permanent yello'W that 
can be imagined, is the sxdphuret of arsenic, of 
realgar, into which, more or less diluted, accord- 
ing to the depth of tint required, the wool, silk, 
cotton, or linen, is to be dipped. AU metallic 
utensils must be carefully avoided. When the 
stuffs come out of this bath they are colourless, 
but they insensibly take on a yellow hue as the 
ammonia evaporates. They are to be exposed as 
equally as possible to a current of open air; and 
•when the colour is well come out, and no longer 
heightens, they are to be washed and dried. 

Wool should be fulled in the ammoniacal solu- 
tion, and should remain in it till it is thoroughly 
soaked; then, very slightly and uniformly pressed, 
or else merely set to drain of itself. Silk, cotton, 
hemp, and flax, are only to be dipped in the dye- 
ing liquid, which they easily take. They must 
then be well pressed. 

The sulphuret of arsenic will give every ima- 
ginable tint to stuffs, from the deep golden yellow 
to the lightest straw-colour, which has the inva- 
riable advantage of never fading, of lasting even 
longer than the stuffs themselves, and of resisting 
all re-agents, except alkalies. Hence it is pecu- 
liarly fitted for costly tapestry, velvets, and other 
articles of furniture which are not in danger of be- 
ing washed with alkalies or soap, and to which the 
durability of colour is a most important object. It 
may also be used with advantage in paper-staining. 
lied dyes. 

The colouring matters employed for dyeing red, 
are archil, madder, carthamus, kermcs, cochineal, 
aud Brazil-wood. 

To dye -woollens red, crimson, and scarlet. 

Coarse woollen stuffs are dyed red with madder 
or archil: but fine cloth is almost exclusively dye<l 
with cochineal, though tlie colour which it re- 
ceives from kermes is much more durable. Bi-a* 



DYEING. 



85 



Ell wood is scarcely used, except as an auxiliary, 
because the colour, which it imparts to wool, is not 
permanent. 

Wood is died crimson, by first impregnatin.^ it 
vith alumine, by means of an alum bath, and then 
boiling it in a decoction of cochineal, till it has 
acquired the wished-for colour. The crimson will be 
finer, if the tin-mordant is substituted for alum; 
indeed, it is usual with dyers, to add a little nitro- 
inuriale of tin, wlien they want fine crimsons. The 
addition of archil and potass to the cochineal, both 
renders the crimson darker, and gives it more 
bloom; but the bloom very soon vanishes. For 
paler crimsons, one-half of the cochineal is with- 
dz'awn, and madder substituted in its place. 

Wool maj' be dyed scarlet, by first boiling it in 
a solution of murio-sulphate of tin, then dyeing it 
pale yellow with quercitron bark, and afterwards 
crimson with cochineal; for scarlet is a compound 
colour, consisting of crimson mixed with a little 
vellow. 

To carry the colour into the body of cloth. 

Make the moistened cloth pass through between 
rollers placed within at the bottom of the dye-vat; 
so that the web, passing from one windlass through 
the dye-vat, and being strongly compressed by the 
rollers in its passage to another windlass, all the 
remaining water is driven out, and is re-placed by 
the colouring liquid, so as to receive colour into 
♦ its very centre. The winding should be continued 
backwards and forwards from one windlass to the 
other, and through the rolling-press, till the dye is 
of sufficient intensity. 

To dye silks red, crimson, &c. 

Silk is usually dyed red with cochineal, or car- 
thamus, and sometimes with Brazil-wood. Kermes 
does not answer for silk; madder is scarcely ever 
used for that purpose, because it does not yield a 
colour bright enough. Archil is employed to give 
silk a bloom; but it is scarcely ever used by itself, 
unless when the colour wanted is lilac. 

Silk may be- dyed crimson, by steeping it in a 
solution of alum, and then dyeing it in the usual way 
in a cochineal bath. 

The colours known by the names oi poppy, cher- 
ry, rose, amljlesh colour, are given to silk by means 
of carthamus. The process consists merely in keep- 
ing the silk as long as it extracts any colour, in an 
alkaline solution of carthamus, into which as much 
lemon-juice, as gives it a fine cherry-red colour, 
has been poured. 

Silk cannot be dyed a full scarlet; but a colour 
approaching to scarlet may be given to it, by first 
impregnating the stull" with murio-sulphate of tin, 
and afterwards dyeing it in a bath, composed of 
four parts of cocliineal, and four parts of quercitron 
bark. To give the colour more body, both the 
mordant and the dye may be repeated. 

A colour, approaching to scarlet, maybe given to 
silk, by first dyeing it in crimson, then dyeing it 
with cartlianuis; and lastly, yellow, without heat. 
To dye Imens and cottons red, scarlet, &c. 

Cotton and linen are dyed red with madder. The 
process was borrowed from the east; hence the co- 
lour is often called Adrianople, or Turkey-red. 
The cloth is first impregnated with oil, then witli 
galls, and lastly with ;dum. It is then boiled for 
an hour in a decoction of madder, which is com- 
monly mixed with a quantity of blood. After the 
cloth is dyei), it is plunged into a soda ley, in or- 
der to brighten the colour. The red, given by tliis 
proaess, is very permanent; and wlien properly 
conducted, it is exceedingly beautiful. The wliole 
difficulty consists in the application of the mor- 
dant, which is by far the most complicated em- 
ployed in the whole art of dyeing. 

Coltoij may be dyed scarlet, by means of murio- 



sulphate of tin, cochineal, and quercitron bark, 
used as for silk, but tlie colour is too fading to be 
of any value. 

Black dyes. 

The substances employed to give a black colour 
to clotli, are red oxide of iron and tan. These 
two substances have a strong affinity for each other, 
and when combined, assujjie a deep black colour, 
not liable to be destroyed by the action of air or 
light. 

Logwood is usually employed as an auxiliary, 
because it commimicates lustre, and adds conside- 
rably to tlie fulness of the black. It is the woo<l 
of a tree which is a native of several of the West- 
India islands, and of that part of Mexico which 
surrounds the bay of Hondiu-as. It yields its co- 
louring matter to water. The decoction is at first 
a fine red, bordering on violet: but if left to itself, 
it gradually assumes a black colour. Acids give it 
a deep red colour; alkalies, a deep violet, inclin- 
ing to brown; sulphate of iron renders it as black 
as ink, and occasions a precipitate of the same co- 
lour. , 

Cloth, before it receives a black colour, is usu- 
ally dyed blue: this reiulers the colour much fuller 
and finer than it would otherwise be. If the cloth 
is coarse, the blue dye may be too expensive; itx 
that case, a brown colour is given by means of 
walnut-peels. 

To dye loooUens black. 

Wool is dyed black by the following process. It 
is boiled for two hours in a decoction of nut-galls, 
and afterwards kept, for two hours more, in a bath, 
composed of logwood and sulphate of iron; kept, 
during the whole time, at a scalding heat, but not • 
boiling. During the operation, it must be fre- 
quently exposed to the air; because the green ox- 
ide of iron, of which the sulphate is composed, must 
be converted into red oxide by absorbing oxygen, 
before the cloth can acquire a proper colour. The 
common proportions are five parts of galls, five of 
sulphate of iron, and thirty of logwood, for every 
hundred of cloth. A little acetate of copper 
is commonly added to tlie sulphate of iron, be- 
cause it is tlwught to improve the colour. 
To dye silks black. 

Silk is dyed nearly in the same manner. It is 
capable of combining with a great deal of tan; the 
quantity given is varied at tlie pleasure of the artist, 
by allowing the silk to remain a longer or shorter 
time in the decoction. 

To dye cotloiis and linens black. 

The cloth, previously dyed blue, is steeped for 
24 hours in a decoction of nut-galls. A bath is 
prepared containing acetate of iron, formed by 
satu:--ating acetous acid willi brown oxide of iron: 
into. this bath the cloth is put in small quantities at 
a time, wrought with the hand for a quarter of an 
hour; then wrung out, and aired again; wrought in 
a fresh quantity of tlie bath, and afterwards aired. 
These alternate processes are repeated till the co- 
lour wanted is given: a decoction of alder bark is 
usually mixed with the liquor containing the nut- 
galls. 

To dye tjooI, &c. broxvti. 

Brown, or fawn colour, though in fact a com- 
pound, is usually ranked among ttie simple colours, 
because it is applied to cloth by a single process. 
Various substances are used for brown dyes. 

Walnut-peels, or the green covering of tlie wal- 
nut, when first separated, are white internally, but 
soon assume a brown, or eve;i a black colour, on 
exposure to tlie air. They readily yield their co- 
louring matter to water. They are usually kept in 
large casks, covered with water, for above a year 
before tliey are used. To dje wool brown with them, 
nothing more is necessary, than to steep the doltt 

Ji i 



86 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



in a decoction of them till it has acquired the 
wished-for colour. The depth of the shade is pro- 
portional to the strcnijth of the decoction. 

Tiie root of the walnut-tree contains the same 
colourinc; matter, hut in smaller quantity. The 
hark of tlic hirch also, and many otlier trees, may 
he used for liio same purpose. 

To (bje coinponml colours. 

Compound colours are produced hy mixing to- 
getlier two simple ones; or which is the same thing 
by dyeing cloth first of the simple colour, and then 
by another. Tliese colours vary to infinity, ac- 
cording to the proportions of the ingredients em- 
ployed. From blue, red, and yellow, red olives 
and greenish greys are made. 

From blue, red, and brown, olives are made 
from the liglitest to the darkest shades; and by 
giving a greater shade of red, the slated anillaven- 
der greys are made. 

From blue, red, and black, greys of all shades 
are made, such as sage, pigeon, slate, and lead 
greys. The king's or prince's colour is duller than 
usual; this mixture produces a variety of hues, or 
colours almost to infinity. 

From yellow, blue, and brown, are made the 
goose dung and olix'es of all kinds. 

From brown, blue, and black, are produced 
broiun olives, and their shades. 

From the red, yellow, and brown, are derived 
the orange, gold colour, feuille-mort, or faded leaf, 
dead carnations, cmnarnon, faivn, and tobacco, hy 
using two or three of the colours as required. 

From yellow, red, and black, brovms of every 
shade are made. 

P'rom blue and yellow, greens of all shades. 

From red and blue, purples of all kinds are 
formed. 

To dye different shades of green. 

Green is distinguished by dyers into a variety of 
shades, according to the depth, or the prevalence 
of either of tiie component parts. Thus, we have 
sea-green, grass-green, pea-green, &c. 

Wool, silk, and linen, are usually dyed green, 
by giving them first a blue colour, and afterwards 
dyeing tiiem yellow; when the yellow is first given, 
several inconveniences follow: tlie yellow partly 
separates again in the blue vat, and communicates 
a green colour to it; thus rendering it useless for 
every other purpose except dyeing green. Any of 
the usual processes for dyeing blue and yellow, 
may be followed, taking care to proportion the 
dejjth of the shades to that of the green required. 

When sulphate of indigo is employed, it is usual 
to mix all the ingi-edients together, and to dye the 
cloth at once; this produces what is known by the 
name of Saxon, or English green. 

To dye violet, purple, and lilac. 

AVool is generally first dyed blue, and after- 
wards scarlet, in the usual mann"er. By means of 
cochineal mixed with sulphate of indigo, the pro- 
cess may be jjcrformed at once. Silk is first dyed 
crimson, by means of cochineal, and then dipped 
into the indigo vat. Cotton and linen are first dyed 
blue, and then dipped in a decoction of logwood; 
but a move permanent colour is given by means of 
oxide of iron. 

To dye olive, orange, and cinnamon. 

WTien blue is combined with red and yellow on 
cloth, the resulting colour is olive. AVool may be 
dyed orange, by first dyeing it scarlet, and then 
yellow. When it is dyed first with madder, the 
result is a cinnamon colour. 

Silk is dyed orange by means of carthamus; a 
cinnamon colour by logwood. Brazil-wood, and 
fustic, mixed together. 

Cotton and linen receive a cinnamon colour by 
means of weld and madder; and an olive-colour 



by being passed through a blue, yellow, and then a 
madder bath. 

To dye grey, drab, and dark brown. 

Tf cloth is previously combined with brown oxide 
of iron, and afterwards dyed yellow with querci- 
tron bark, the result will be a drab of different 
shades, according to tlie proportion of mordant em- 
ployed. When the proportion is small, the colour 
inclines to olive, or yellow; on the contraiy, the 
drab may be deepened, or saddened, as the dyers 
term it, by mixing a little sumach with the bark. 
To dye a black upon cotton, linen, and mixed 
goods. 

Take tar, iron liquor of the very best quality; 
add to each gallon thereof, three quarters of a 
pound of fine flour, and boil it to the consistency 
of a thin paste. Put the liquor or paste abovemen- 
tioned into a tub belon;i;ing to a machine used ia 
the process. The goods intended to be dyed are 
wound upon a roller, and passed through the 
liquor or ])aste, betwixt the two rollers; thereby 
completely staining or dyeing the whole mass or 
body of the cloth. Pass them into a veiy hot stove 
or drying-house till dry, then take cow's dung, put 
it into a large copper of water about scalding hot, 
and mix it well together, through wliich pass the 
pieceof cloth until it be thoroughly softened. Wash 
the goods, so dunged, extremely well in water. 
Take a quantity of madder, or logwood, or su- 
mach, or all of them mixed together, as the strength 
of the cloth and nature of the colour may require, 
and put them into a copper, or tub of hot water, 
then enter the goods before mentioned in this li- 
quor, and keep rinsing or moving them therein, 
until they are brought up to the strength of colour 
required. Have the goods again well washed and 
dried. F'or dyeing black, it will be proper to pass 
the goods a second time through the above opera- 
tions; adthng more or less of the dyeing-woods as 
before. If after the above operations tiie shade of 
colour is too full, or too mUL-h upon the red hue, 
it will be necessary to give them a little sumach, 
and then run tliem through a liquor made from iron 
and owler, or alder bark. 

Another method. 

Take common iron liquor, and add 3-4ths of a 
pound of fine flour, and by boiling bring it to the 
consistency of a thin paste; or instead of flour, add 
glue or linseed, or gum, or all of them mixed to- 
gether, till it is brought to a proper thickness. 
Then pass the goods through the machine, and 
follow the before mentioned operations. 
To dye olives, bottle greens, purples, browns, «n- 
namons, or snuffs. 

Take common iron liquor, or common iron li- 
quor with alum dissolved therein, in quantity of 
each according to tlie shade of colour wanted, made 
into a paste or liquid, by adding flour, gum, glue, 
linseed, or one or more of them as before. Then 
put the liquor or paste above mentioned into a tub 
belonging to the machine, and pass the goods so 
intended to be dyed, through the machine. Take 
them from the machine, and hang them up in a 
very cool room, where they are to remain till tho- 
roughly dry. Take cow's dung, put it into a large 
copper of hot water, and mix it well together ; 
through which pass the cloth or goods until tho- 
roughly softened, the quantity of dung and time re- 
quired, being proportioned as before. 

The goods after this process being well washed, 
take a quantity of liquor made from madder, log- 
wood, sumach, fustic, Brazil, woad, quercitron 
bark, peach wood, or other woods, to produce the 
colour wanted, or more of them; and if necessary 
dilute this liquor with water, according to the shade 
or fulness of colour wanted to be dyed. Then work 
the goods through this liquor : after which pasa 



DYEING. 



87 



them through cold or warm water, according to the 
colour, the proper application of which is well known 
to dyers, adding a little alum, copperas, or Roman 
vitriol, or two or more of them, first dissolved in 
■water. Then wash them off in warm water, and 
dry them. But if the colour is not sufficiently full, 
repeat the same operations till it is brought to the 
shade required. 

To dye crimson, red, orange, or yellow. 
Take red liquor, such as is generally made from 
alum, and dilute it with water according to the 
strength or shade of colour wanted to dye, bring- 
ing it to the consistency of a paste or liquid, as be- 
fore described. Then pass the cloth tln-ough the 
machine; which being dried in a cool room, pass 
it through the operations of dunging and washing 
as before. Take a quantity of liquor, made from 
cochineal, madder, peach-wood, Brazil, logwood, 
woad, fustic, sumach, or any two or more of them 
proportioned in strength to the shade or colour 
■wanted to dye, and work the goods through this li- 
quor till they are brought to the shade of colour 
required; after which wash them in cold or warm 
■water, and dry them. 

'J'o dye coUoji, 7vool, and silk, -with Prussian blue. 
Immerse the cotton into a large tub of water 
slightly acidulated and charged with prussiate of 
potass. These sorts of stuffs dyed in Prussian blue, 
and then in olive transformed into green, are par- 
ticularly sought after in trade. By processes ana- 
logous to those employed for cotton stuffs, the in- 
ventor has obtained the same shades and colours, 
on samples of silk; and for many years, he has even 
succeeded in fixing Prussian blue on wool, and in 
pi'oducing on cloth the same shades as on cotton 
and silk. 

Dyeing -with Prussian blue. 
By the following process, a brilliant and perma- 
nent colour, called Raymond blue, from its pro- 
Eoser Mr Raymond, Professor of Chemistry at 
yons, may be produced; a colour more bright than 
and as deep as that obtained from indigo, fur- 
nishing likewise a sky-blue, not attainable from 
that substance. 

The silk, after its usual boiling with soap, is to 
be cleansed in a large quantity of water; it is then 
to be immersed ir. a solution of the per-sulphate of 
iron (copperas of a dark green), the oxide of which 
combines with the silk — the proper quantity of fer- 
ruginous matter the silk has absorbed is indicated 
by the greater or less intensity of tlie j'ellow colour 
it presents. It is then to be i-insed with great cai-e 
to remove all the freu acid, and plunged in a bath 
of prussiate of potash acidulated by sulphuric acid. 
The dyeing is effected in a few minutes. When 
this is done it must be rinsed agam in clear water, 
and brightened with purified urine largely diluted 
■with water, into which is occasionally thrown a lit- 
tle acetic acid. 

Chevi'eul's mode of graduating shades of colour 
from Prussian blue. 
Impregnate each parcel of silk to be dyed with 
a different proportion of the oxide of iron by im- 
mersing it in a solution, the strength of which has 
been regulated accordingly. For the deeper tones 
of colour employ the acetate, and for the others the 
muriafae or sulphate. After having properly rinsed 
(in separate water) each parcel, it is to be dipp- 
ed into distinct baths of tlie prussiate of potash, the 
quantity of which 1ms been made to correspond witli 
the quantity of oxide of iron previously united to it. 
With these precautions all the desired shades may 
be obtained. Those which are light and have a 
greenish cast should be well washed in river water, 
which will soon produce the blue in its purity. — If 
this does not happen a very -weak solution of mu- 
riatic acid will produce the effect to a certainty. 



To precipitate acetates of lead and copper, on 
tvool, silk, and cotton. 
Soak the stuff which is required to be dyed, in a 
solution of acetate, or rather sub-acetate of lead, 
wring it when it comes out of the bath, drying it 
in the shade, afterwards wash it, and again im- 
merse it in water charged with sulplmretted hydro- 
gen gas. By this process are obtained, in a few 
minutes, rich and well-laid shades, which vary 
from the clear vigone colour to tlie deep brown, 
according to the force of the mordant and the num- 
ber of the immersions of tlie stuffs in the two bath- 
ing vessels. Prom the order of affinities, it is the 
wool which takes colour the best, afterwards the 
silk, then the cotton, and lastly the thread, which 
appears little apt to combine with the mordant. 

The different colours above indicated, resist the 
air well, likewise feeble acids, alkalies, and boil- 
ing soap, which modify their shades in an imper- 
ceptible manner, and these shades are so striking, 
that it will appear difficult to obtain them in any 
other manner. 

This new kind of dye is very economical. The 
sulphuretted hydrogen gas is obtained from a mix- 
ture of two parts of iron filings, and one of brim- 
stone melted in a pot; this brimstone is bruised, 
introduced into a matrass, and the gas is removed 
by sulphuric acid extended in water to a mild heat. 
The gas absorbs abundantly in cold water. 
To dye cotton cloth black. 
Take a quantity of Molacca nuts, which in Ben- 
gal are sold at 2s. per cwt., and boil them in wa- 
ter, in close earthen vessels, witli the leaves of the 
tree. During the boiling, a whitish substance, 
formed from the mucilage and oil of the nuts, will 
I'ise to the surface; this must be taken off and pre- 
served. The cloth intended to be black must be 
printed with this scum, and then dyed, after which 
let it be passed through lime water, when tlie 
printed figures will be changed to a full and per- 
manent black. 

To dye wool a perma7ient blue colour. 
Take 4 ounces of tiie best indigo, reduce it to a 
very fine powder, and add 12 pounds of wool, in 
the grease; put the whole into a copper large 
enough to contain all the wool to be dyed. As 
soon as the requisite colour is obtained, let the 
wool be well washed and dried. The liquor re- 
maining may be again used,5.to produce lighter 
blues. The colour will be as beautiful and per- 
manent as the finest blue, produced by woad, and 
the wool, by this method, will lose less in weight 
than if it had been previously scoured. 
To produce tJvi Swiss deep and pale red topical 
mordants. 
When the cotton cloth has been freed by steep- 
ing and boiling in soap and water, from the paste 
used by the weaver, and any other impurities it 
may have acquired, immerse it thoroughly, or, as 
it is called, tramp or pad it in a solution of any al- 
kali, and oil or grease, forming an imperfect soap, 
or boil it in any of the perfect soaps dissolved in wa- 
ter, or in a solution of soda and gallipoli oil, in the 
proportion of 1 gallon of oil to 20 gallons of soda 
lees, at the strength of four degrees and a half; 
then di-y the cloth in the stove, and repeat the pro- 
cess several times, which may be varied at plea- 
sure, according to the lustre and durability of the 
colour wanted, stove-drying the cloth between 
every immersion. To the above solutions add a 
little sheep's dung, for the first three immersions; 
these are called the dung liquors; after the cloth 
has received the dung liquors, it is steeped for 13 
hours in a quantity of water, 110 degrees of Fah- 
renheit; this is called the green steep. The cloth 
being again stove-dried, is immersed as above iua 
solutiou of alkali and oil, or grease, or boiled in 



88 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



])ei-fect soap dissolved, but without the sheep's 
dung; 01- ohener, according to the brilliancy of 
colours wanted, stove-drying, as before, between 
every immersion; these are called the wliitc li- 
quors. Steep the cloth for 12 hours at 125' Fah- 
renheit, which forms what is called the white 
steep. The cloth being now thoroughly washed 
in cold water, and driecl, is ready to receive, first, 
the pink mordant, wiiich is composed as follows: — 
take equal quantities, by measurement, of a decoc- 
tion of galls at the strength of four to six, and a 
solution of alum at one half degree, the alum being 
previously saturated with whitening, or any other 
alkali, in the proportion of 1 ounce to the pound 
weight of alum; mix them togetlier, and raise the 
temi)erature to 140 degrees of Fahrenheit, or as 
hot as can be handled. By immersion, as formerly 
mentioned, in this n/ixture, the cloth, when dyed 
and cleared, exhibits a beautiful pink, equal, if not 
superior, to tliat produced by cochineal. 

To dye silks and satins brown in the s ■nail way. 

Fill the copper with river water, when it gently 
boils, put in a quarter of a pound of chipped fustic, 
two ounces of madder, one ounce of sumach, and 
half an ounce of cam-wood; but if not required to 
be so red, the cam-wood may be omitted. These 
should boil, at least, from half an hour to two 
hours, that the ingredients may be well incorpo- 
rated. The copper must then be cooled down by 
pouring in cold water: the goods may then be put 
in, and simmered gently from half an hour to an 
hour. If this colour should appear to want dark- 
ening, or saddening, it may he done by taking out 
the goods, and adding a small quantity of old 
black liquor; a small piece of green copperas may 
be used: riuse in two or tliree waters, and hang up 
to dry. 

To dye silks of fawn colour drabs. 

Boil one ounce of fustic, half an ounce of alder 
bark, and two drachms of archil. From one to 
four drachms of the best crop madder mast be ad- 
ded to a very small quantity of old black liquor, 
if it be required darker. 

To dye a silk shawl scarlet. 

First dissolve two ounces of white soap in boil- 
ing water, handle the shawl through this li(iuor, 
HOW and then rubbing such places witli the hands 
as may appear dirty, till it is as clean us this wa- 
ter will make it. A second, or even a third liquor 
may be used, if required: the shawl must be rinsed 
out in warm water. 

Then take half au ounce of the best Spanish an- 
iiatto, and dissolve it in hot water; pour this solu- 
tion into a pan of warm water, and handle the 
shawl through this for a quarter of an hour; then 
take it out and rinse it in clean water. In the 
meanwhile dissolve a piece of alum of the size of 
a horse bean in warm water, and let the shawl re- 
niain in this half an hour; take it out and rinse it 
in clear water. Then boil a quarter of an our.ce 
of the best cochuieal for twenty minutes, dip it out 
of the copper into a pan, and let the shawl remain 
in this from twenty minutes to half an hour, which 
will make it a full blood red. Then take out the 
bhawl, and add to the liquor in the pan a quart 
more of that out of the copper, if there is as much 
remaining, and about half a small wine-glassful of 
the solution of tin: when cold, rinse it slightly out 
in spring water. 

To dye a silk shawl crimson. 

Take about a table spoonful of cud-bear, put it 
into a small pan, pour boiling water upon it, stir 
and let it stand a few minutes, then put in the silk, 
and turn it over a short time, and wiieu the colour 
is lull enough, take it out: but if it should require 
more violet or crimson, add a spoonful or two of 
purple archil to some warm water, and dry it within 



doors. To finish it, it must be mangled or ca- 
lendered, and may be pressed, if such a conveni- 
ence is at hand. 

To dye silk lilac. 

For every pound of silk, take one pound and a 
half of archil, mix it well with the liq^uor; make it 
boil a quarter of an hour, dip the silk quickly, 
then let it cool, and wash it in river water, and a 
fine violet, or lilac, more or less full, will be ob- 
tained. 

To dye thick silksy satins, silk stockings, &c. of a 
flesh colour. 

Wash the stockings clean in soap and water, 
tlien rinse them in hot water; if they should not 
then appear perfectly clear, cut Indf an ounce of 
white soap into thin slices, and put it into a sauce- 
pan half full of boiling water; when this soap is 
dissolved, cool the water in the pan, then put in 
the stockings, and simmer for twenty minutes; 
take them out, and rinse in hot water; in the in- 
te^•im pour three table spoonsful of purple archil 
into a wash-hand basin half full of hot water; put 
the stockings in this dye water, and when of the 
shade called half violet or lilac, take them from 
the dye water, and slightly rinse tliem in cold ; 
when dry hang them up in a close room in which 
sulphur is burnt; when they are evenly bleachetl 
to the shade required of flesh colour, take theia 
from the sulphuring-room, and finish them by 
rubbing the right side with a clean flannel. Some 
persons calender them afterwards. Satins and silks 
are done the same way. 

I'o dye silk stockings black. 

These are dyed like other silks, excepting that 
they must be steeped a day or two in black liquor, 
before they are put into the black silk dye. At 
first they will look like an iron grey; but, to finish 
and black them, they must be put on wooden legs, 
laid on a table, and rubbed with llie oily rubber, 
or flannel, upon which is oil of olives, and then the 
more they are rubbed tlie better. Each pair of 
stockings will require half a table spoonful of oil, 
at least, and halt an hour's rubbing, to finish them 
well. Sweet oil is the best in this process, as it 
leaves no disagreeable smell. 

To dye straw and chip bonnets black. 

Chip hats being composed of the shavings of 
wood, are stained black in various ways. First, 
by being boiled in strong logwood liquor three 
or four hours; they must be often taken out 
to cool in the air, and now and then a small 
quantity of green copperas must be added to the 
liquor, aud this continued for several hours. The 
saucepan or kettle that they are dyed in may re- 
main with the bonnets in it all night; the next 
morning they must be taken out and dried in the 
air, and brushed with a soft brush. Lastly, a 
sponge is dipped in oil, and squeezed almost to 
dryness; with this the bonnets are rubbed all over, 
both inside and out, and then sent to the blockets 
to be blocked. Others boil them in logwood; and 
instead of green copperas, use steel filings steeped 
in vinegar; after which they are finislied as above. 
7'o dye straw bonnets brown. 

Take a sufficient quantity of Brazil wood, su- 
mach, bark, madder, and copperas, and sadden, 
according to the shade required. 
'i remove the stain of light colours from the haiuls. 

Wash the hands in soap and water, in which 
some pearl-ash is dissolved. 

To dye black cloth green. 

Clean the cloth -.veil with bullock's gal! and wa- 
ter, and rinse in warm water; then make a copper 
full of river water, boiling hot, and take from one 
pound to one pound and a half of fustic; put it in, 
and boil it twenty minutes, to which add a lump 
of alum of the siz,e of a walnut; when this is dis« 



DYEING. 



89 



solved in the copper, put ia the coat, and hoil it 
twenty minutes; then take it out, and add a small 
wine glass, three parts full, of chemic blue, and 
boil again from half an hour to an hour, and the 
cloth will be a beautiful dark green; then wash out 
and dry. 

Calico printing. 
This art consists in dyeing cloth with certain co- 
lours and figures upon aground of a different hue; 
the colours, when they will not take hold of the 
clotli readily, being fixed to them by means of 
mordants, as a preparation of alum, made by dis- 
solving 3 lbs. of alum and 1 lb. of acetate of lead in 
8 lbs. of warm water. There are added at the 
same time, 2 ounces of potash, and 2 ounces of 
chalk. 

Acetate of iron, also, is a moi-dant in frequent 
use in the printing of calicoes; but the simple mix- 
ture of alum and acetate of lead is found to answer 
best as a mordant. 

To apply the mordants. 
The mordants are applied to the cloth, either 
■with a pencil, or by means of blocks, on which the 
pattern, according to which the cotton is to be 
printed, is cut. As they are applied only to par- 
ticular parts of the cloth, care must be taken tliat 
none of them spread to the part of the cloth which 
is to be left white, and tl»at they do not interfere 
•with each other when several are applied; it is 
necessary, therefore, that the mordants should be 
of such a degree-of consistence, that they will not 
spread beyond those parts of the cloth on which 
tliey are .applied. This is done by thickening 
them with flour or starch, when they are to be ap- 
plied by the block, and with gum arable when 
they are to be put on with the pencil. The thick- 
ening should never be greater than is sufficient to 
prevent the spreading of the mordants; when car- 
ried too far, the cotton is apt not to be sufficiently 
saturated with the mordants, and of course the dye 
takes but imperfectly. 

In order tliat the parts of the cloth impregnated 
•with mordants may be distinguished by their co- 
lour, it is usual to tinge the mordants with some 
colouring matter. The printers commonly use the 
decoction of Brazil wood for this purpose. 

Sometimes, the two mordants are mixed to- 
gether in different proportions; and sometimes one 
or both is mixed with an infusion of sumach, or of 
nut-galls. Ly these contrivances a great variety 
of colours are produced by the same dye-stuff. 
Process of dyeing, &c. 
After the mordants have been applied, the cloth 
must be completely dried. It is proper for this 
purpose to employ heat, which will contribute to- 
-wards the separation of the acetous acid from its 
base, and towards its evaporation; by -svhich means 
tlie mordant will combine in a greater proportion, 
and more intimately with the cloth. 

When the cloth is sufficiently dried, it is to be 
■washed with warm water and cow-dung: till the 
flower or gum employed to thicken the mordants, 
and all those parts of the mordants which are un- 
combined with the cloth, are removed. After 
tliis, the cloth is to be thoroughly rinsed in clean 
water. 

Dye-stiijfs. 
Almost the only dye-stuffs employed by calico- 
printers are indigo, madder, and quercitron bark, 
ur weld; but this last substance is little used, ex- 
cept for delicate greenish yellows. The querci- 
tron bark gives colours equally good; and is much 
cheaper and more convenient, not requiring so 
gi-eat a heat to fix it. Indigo, not requiring any 
tnordant, is commonly applied at once, either l)y 
a block or by a pencil. It is prepared by boiling 
together indigo and potash, made caustic by quick 



lime and orpiment; the solution is afterwards 
thickened with gum. It must be carefully seclu- 
ded from the air, otlierwise the indigo w»uld sooc 
be regenerated, whicli would render the solution 
useless. Dr Bancroft has proposed to substitute 
coarse brown sugar for orpiment: it is equally ef- 
ficacious in decomposing the indigo, and render- 
ing it soluble; while it likewise serves all the 
purposes of gum. Some calicoes are only printed 
of one coloui', others have two, and others three 
or more, even to the number of eight, ten, or 
twelve. The smaller the number of colours, the 
fewer in general, are the processes. 
JVew process to separate the red colouring principle 

of madder, 
r For this purpose three tubs are necessary, say, 
A, B, C. The first, or A, sufficient for 55 pounds 
of madder, is to be two feet eight inches deep, and 
two feet six in diameter. The second, or 13, is five 
feet and a half high and three feet in diameter. 
This tub is to be furnished with tliree cocks, the 
first placed at two, the second at three, and 
the third at four feet above its bottom. A serves 
as a fermenting tub; B, a washing vessel; and C, 
as a deposit. These tubs are placed near to each 
other, in the summer, in the open air, under a 
shed; in the winter, in a cellar kept at from 66' to 
70' Faljrenheit. To commence the process, put 
froni 50 to 55 pounds of ground madder into A, 
and add water, stirring tlie mixture continually, 
until tiie madder, when at rest, is covered with ao 
inch and a half of water. In 36 or 48 hours (be- 
ing at rest,) fermentation takes place and raises a 
crust of madder to the surface. The mass is now 
to be transferred to the second tub or B, which is 
then to be filled with water, where it is to repose 
for two hours. Tiie uppermost cock is then open- 
ed, next the under one, and lastly the third. The 
liquor collected from the second and third cocks 
is carried to the tub C, where the precipitation of 
the madder that escaped from B, is completed. 
You may make repeated washings of the madder 
in B, until the water ceases to be coloured. Care 
should be taken in summer, to prevent the madder 
from fermenting a second tirfte. Tlie madder in 
C being washed and precipitated, is equally good 
with the other. 

To print yellow. 

For yellow, the block is besmeared with acetate 
ofalumine. The cloth, after receiving this mor- 
dant, is dyed with quercitron bark, and is thm 
bleached, 

j\''ankeen yellow. — One of the most common co- 
lours on cotton prints, is a kind of Nankeen yellow, 
of various shades down to a deep yellowish browu 
or drab. It is usually in stripes or spots. To pro- 
duce it, the printers besmear a block, cut out into 
the figure of the print, with acetate of iron, thick- 
ened with gum or flour; and apply it to the cotton, 
which, after being dried and cleansed in the usual 
manner, is plunged into a potash ley. The quan- 
tity of acetate of iron is always proportioned to tho 
depth of the shade. 

Hed. — Red is communicated by the same pro- 
cess, onlj' madder is substituted for the bark. 

Blue. — The fine light blues which appear so fre- 
quently on printed cottons, are produced by ap- 
plying to tiie cloth a block besmeared with a com- 
position, consisting partly of wax, which covers 
all those parts of the cloth whicli remain white. 
The cloth is then dyed in a cold indigo vat; and 
after it is dry, the -wax composition is removed by 
hot water. 

Idlac and brown. — Lilac, flea brown, and black- 
ish brown, are given by means of acetite of iron ; 
the quantity of which is always proportioned to the 
depth of the shade. For very deep colours a little 

Hi 



90 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



sumach ' is added. The cotton is afterwatds 
<lyed in the usiul manner with madder, and then 
bleached. 

Qreen. — To twelve quarts of muriatic acid, add 
bv degrees one quart, of nitrous acid: saturate the 
•\vliole with £;rain tin, and boil it in a proper vessel 
till two-thirds are evaporated. 

To prepare tlie iniligo for mixin;; with the solu- 
tion, take nine pounds of indigo, half a pound of 
orange orpinieiit, and grind it in about four quarts 
of water, mix it well witli the indigo; and grind 
the whole in the usual way. 

To mix the snhition of tin itdth prepared indigo. 

Take two gallons of the indigo prepared as 
above, then stir into it, by degrees, one gallon of 
the solution of tin, neutralized by as much caustic 
alkali as can be added without precipitating the 
tin from the acids. For a lighter shade of green, 
less indigo will be necessary. The goods are to 
be dipped in the way of dipping China blues; they 
must not, however, be allowed to drain, but moved 
from one vat to another as quickly as possible. 
They are to be cleansed in the usual way, in a sour 
vat of about 150 gallons of water to one gaflon of 
sulphuric acid; they are then to be well washed in 
decoctions of weld, and other yellow colour drugs, 
and are to be branned or bleached till they be- 
come white in those parts which are required co- 
lourless. 

To print dove colour and drab. 

Dove colour and drab are given by acetite of 
iron and quercitron bark; the cloth is afterwards 
prepared in the usual manner. 

To print different colours. 

'When different colours are to appear in the 
same print, a greater number of operations are 
necessar}'. Two or more blocks are employed; 
upon each of which, that part of the print only is 
cut, which is to be of some particular colour. 
These are besmeared with different mordants, and 
applied to the cloth, which is afterwards dyed as 
usual. Let us suppose, for instance, that these 
blocks are applied to cotton, one with acetite of 
alumine, another with acetite of iron, a third with 
a mixture of those two mordants, and that the cot- 
ton is then dyed with quercitron bark, and bleach- 
ed. The parts impregnated with the mordants 
would have the following colours: — 

Acetite of alumine, yellow. Acetite of iron, 
olive, drab, dove. The mixture, olive green, olive. 

If the part of the j'ellow is covered over with the 
indigo liquor, applied with a pencil, it will be 
converted into gree7i. By the same liquid, blue 
may be given to such parts of the print as i-e- 
quire it. 

If the cotton is dj'ed with madder, instead of 
quercitron bark, the print will exhibit the follow- 
ing colours: — 

Acetite of alumine, red. Acetite of iron, brown, 
black. The mixture, purple. 

When a greater number of colours are to ap- 
pear; for instance, when those communicated by 
bark, and those by madder are wanted at the same 
time, mordants for parts of the pattern are to be 
applied: the cotton then is to be dyed in the mad- 
der bath, and bleached; then the rest of the mor- 
dants, to fill up the pattern, are added, and the 
cloth is again dyed with quercitron bark, and 
bleached. The second dyeing does not much af- 
fect the madder colours; because the mordants, 
which render them permanent, are already satu- 
rated. The yellow 'cinge is easily removed by the 
subsequent bleaching. Sometimes a new mor- 
dant is also applied to some of the madder co- 
lours, in consequence of which, they receive a new 
Serraanent colour from the bark. ' After the last , 
leaching, new colours may be added by means of i 



the indigo liquor. The following table will give 
an idea of the colours which may be given to cot-» 
ton by these processes. 

I. JHadder dye. — Acetite of alumine, red. Ace- 
tite of iron, brown, black. Acetite diluted, lilac. 
Both mixeil, purple. 

II. Black dye. — Acetite of alumine, yellow. 
Acetite of iron, dove, drab. Lilac and acetite of 
alumine, olive. Red and acetite of alumine, orange. 

III. Indigo dye. — Indigo, blue. Indigo and yel- 
low, ji'een. 

To prepare a substitute for gum used in calico 
printing. 

Collect half a ton weight of scraps of pelts or 
skins, or pieces of rabbit or sheep skins, and boil 
them together for seven or eight hours, in 350 gal- 
lons of water, or until it becomes a strong size. 
Then draw it off, and when cold, weigh it. Warm 
it again, and to every hundred weight, add 4 gal- 
lons of the strongest sweet wort that can be made 
from malt, or 20 pounds weight of sugar. When 
incorporated, take it otr,and put it into a cask for use. 

This substitute for gum may be used by calico 
printers in mixing up nearly all kinds of colours. 
By using a sixth part only of gum with it, it will 
also improve the gum, and, be a saving of 200 per 
cent, and without gum, of 400 per cent. It will also 
improve and j)reserve the paste so much used by 
printers. 

To prepare anattofor dyeing 

Anatto is a colouring fecula of a resinous nature, 
extracted from the seeds of a tree very common in 
the AVest Indies, and which in height never ex- 
ceeds 15 feet. 

The Indians employ two processes to obtain the 
red fecula of these seeds. They first pound them, 
and mix them witli a certain quantity of water, 
v/liich in the course of five or six days favours the 
progress of fermentation. The liquid then becomes 
charged with the colouring part; and the superflu- 
ous moisture is afterwards separated by slow eva- 
poration over the fire, or by the heat of the sun. 

Another method. — This consists in rubbing the 
seeds between the hands in a vessel filled with wa- 
ter. The colouring part is precipitated, and forms 
itself into a mass like a cake of wax; but if the red 
fecula, thus detached, is much more beautiful than 
in the first process, it is less in quantity. Besides, 
as the splendour of it is too bright, the Indians are 
accustomed to weaken it by a mi.\t«re of red san- 
dal wood. 

Use of anatto. 

The natives of the East India islands used for- 
merly to employ anatto for painting their bodies, 
&c. at present, it is applied, in Europe, to the pur- 
poses of dyeing. It is employed to give the first 
tint to woollen stuft's intended to be dyed red, blue, 
yellow, and green, &c. 

In the art of the varnisher it forms part of the 
composition of changing varnishes, to give a cold 
colour to the metals to which these varnishes are 
applied. 

To choose anatto. 

It ought to be chosen of a flame colour, brighter 
in the interior part than on the outside, soft to' the 
touch, and of a good consistence. The paste of 
anatto becomes hard in Europe; and it loses some 
of its odour, which approaches near to that of vio- 
lets. 

To prepare litmus. 

The Canary and Cape de Verd islands produce 
a kind of lichen or moss which yields a violet 
colouring part, when exposed to the contact of am- 
monia disengaged from urine, in a state of putre- 
faction, by a mixture of lime. When the processes 
are finished it is known by the name of litmus. 

This article is prepared on a large scale at Lon- 



DYEING. 



91 



don, Paris, and Lyons. In the latter chy another 
kind of lichen, which gtrows on the x-ocks like moss, 
IS employed. 

The ammonia joins the resinous part of the plant, 
developes its colouring part and combines with it. 
In this state the lichen forms a paste of a violet red 
colour, interspersed with whitish spots, which give 
it a marble appearance. 

Litmus is employed in dyeing to communicate a 
violet colour to silk and woollen. It is used also 
for colouring the liquor of thermometers. 
To prepare bastard saffron. 
The flowers of this plant contain two colouring 
parts: one soluble in water, and which is thrown 
away; the other soluble in alkaline liquors. The 
latter colouring part becomes the basis of various 
beautiful shades of cherry colour, ponceau, rose- 
colour, &c. It is employed for dyeing feathers, 
and constitutes the vegetable red, or Spanish ver- 
milion employed by ladies to heighten their com- 
plexion. 

Cartbamus cannot furnish its resinous colouring 
part, provided with all its qualities, until it has 
been deprived of that which is soluble in water. 
For this purpose, the dried flowers of the cartba- 
mus are enclosed in a linen bag, and the bag is 
placed in a stream of running water. A man with 
wooden shoes gets upon the bag every eigiit or ten 
hours, and treads it on tlie bank until the water ex- 
pressed from it is colourless. 

These moist flowers, after being strongly squeez- 
ed in the bag, are spread out on a piece of canvas 
extended on a frame, placed over a wooden box, 
and covered with five or six per cent, of their 
Weight of carbonate of soda. Pure water is then 
poured over them; and this process is repeated se- 
veral times, that the alkali may have leisure to be- 
come charged witli the colouring part which it 
dissolves. The liquor, when filtered, is of a dirty 
red, and almost brown colour. The colouring part, 
tlius held in solution, cannot be employed for co- 
louring bodies until it is free; and to set it at liber- 
ty, the soda must be brought into contact witli a 
body which has more affinity for it. It is on this 
precipitation, by an intermediate substance, that 
the process for making Spanish vermilion is found- 
ed, as well as all the results arising from tlie di- 
rect application of this colouring part, in the art of 
dyeing. 

Utility of sheep'' s ching. 
This article is used in dyeing, for the purpose 
of preparing cotton and linen to receive certain 
colours, particulai-ly the red madder and cross- 
wort, which it performs by impregnating the stuff's 
with an animal mucilage, of which it contains a 
large quantity, and thus assimilating them to wool 
and silk. 

To prepare ivoad. 
This is efi'ected from the leaves of the plant so 
called, by grinding them to a paste, of which balls 
are made, placed in heaps, and occasionally sprink- 
led with water to promote the fermentation: when 
this is finished the woad is allowed to fall into a 
coarse powder used as a blue dye-stuff". 
To prepare indigo. 
This dye is derived from the leaves and the 
young shoots of several species of indigo plants, by 
soaking them either in cold water, or still better 
in water kept warm,, and at about 160° Fahr. till 
the liquor becomes a deep green; it is then drawn 
off^ and beat or churned till blue flakes appear, 
■when lime water is added, the yellow liquor drawn 
off", and the blue sediment dried and formed into 
lumps. 

To prepare carmine. 
Boil one ounce troy of cochineal finely powdered 
in Vi or 14 pints of rain or distilled water, in a tin- 



ned copper vessel for three minutes, then add 25 
grains of alum, and continue the boiling for two 
minutes longer, and let it cool; draw off" the clear 
liquor as soon as it is only blood warm, very care- 
fully into shallow vessels, and put them by, laying 
a sheet of paper over each of them, to keep out the 
dust for a couple of days, by which time the car- 
mine will have settled. In case the carmine does 
not separate properly, a few drops of a solution of 
green vitriol will throw it down immediately. The 
water being drawn off^, the carmine is dried in a 
warm stove: the first coarse sediment serves to 
make Florence lake; the water drawn off is liquid 
rouge. 

To obtain a dyeijig matter from potato tops. 
Cut off" the top when it is in flower, and extract 
the juice, by bruising and pressing it. Linen or 
woollen imbibed in this liquor forty-eight hours, 
will take a brilliant, but solid and permanent yel- 
low colour. If the cloth be afterwards plunged in 
a blue dye, it will acquire a beautiful permanent 
green colour. As to the mode of execution, it 
should pass through the hands of a chemist or skil- 
ful dyer, to derive all the advantages it is capable 
of furnishing. 

To print carpets. 
These carpets are made of knitted wool, by 
means of a machine; they are afterwards pressed 
and receive all the colours and designs wished for. 
These designs, printed on the tissue by means of 
wooden boards, are extremely neat; the colours are 
very brilliant, and resist the rubbing extremely 
well, provided they traverse the tissue from one 
part to another. 

These new carpets are warm, and have the ad- 
vantage of being cheaper than other carpets; they 
last as long, and are not crossed by seams disa- 
greeable to the eye, even on a breadth of from 
twelre to fifteen feet. 

To dye hats. 
The hats should be first strongly galled by boil- 
ing them a long time in a decoction of galls with 
a little log\vood, that the dye may penetrate the 
better into tlieir substance; after which a proper 
quantity of vitriol and decoction of logwood, with 
a little verdigris, are added, and the hats continued 
in this mixture for a considerable time. They are 
afterwards put into fresh liquor of logwood, galls, 
vitriol and verdigris; and where the hats .are of 
great price, or of a hair which with difficulty takes 
the dye, the same process is repeated a third time. 
For obtaining the most perfect colour, the hair or 
wool is dyed blue previously to its being formed 
into hats. 

Another method. — Boil 100 pounds of logwood, 
12 pounds of gum, and 6 pounds of galls, in a pro- 
per quantity of water for some hours; after which, 
about 6 pounds of verdigris and 10 of green vitriol 
are added, and the liquor kept just simmering, or 
of a heat a little below boiling. Ten or twelve 
dozen of hats are immediately put in, each on its 
block, and kept down by cross bars for about an 
hour and a half; they are then taken out and aired, 
and the same number of others put in tlieir room. 
The two sets of lials are tlius dipped and aired al- 
ternately, eight times each; the liquor being re- 
freshed each time with more of the ingredients, but 
in less q.uantity than at first. 

To prove the colours of dyea stuffs. 
For crimson, scarlet, flesh-colour, violet, peach 
blossom, all shades of blue, and other colours bor- 
dering on these, dissolve half an ounce of alum in 
a pint of water, in an earthen vessel, and into this 
put the eighth of an ounce of the stuff or thread 
that is to be proved; boil the whole for five minutes, 
and wash it out in clean water. 
For all sorts of yellov, green, madder, red, ein- 



92 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



iiamon, and similar colours, boil a quarter of an 
ounce Qi'soap in a ^lint of water, put in the eigiilli 
of an ounce of the stuff to be tried, and boil for 
live minutes. 

For hair brown, &:c. powder an ounce of tartar, 
and boil it in a jiint of water, and boil a quarter of 
an ounce of the Uud'or tliread in the solution for 
live minutes. 



BHSCELLANROUS RECEIPTS FOR DYE- 
ING, STAINING, hi.c. 

7'o tnni red hair Mack. 

Take a pint of the liquor of i)ickle(l herrinj^s, 
half a pound of lamp-black, and two ounces of the 
rust of iron. Mix and boil them for twenty mi- 
nutes, ilien strain and rub the liquid well ii.to tlie 
roots of the haii'. 

To change the colour of hair. 

This is done by spreadins; the hair to bleach on 
the grass like linen, after first washing; it out in a I 
lixivious water. This ley, witii the force of the 
sun and air, bi'inp;s the hair to a jierfect wliiteness. 
There is also a method of dyeins; hair with bis- 
muth, which renders such white hair as boi'ders too 
much upon the yellow, of a bright silver colour. 

Hair may be changed from a red, grey, or other 
disagreeable colour, to a brown or deep black, liy 
a solution of silver. The liquors, sold under the 
name of hair waters, are, in fact, no more than 
solutions of silver in a(|ua-fortis, lars^ely diluted 
■with water, witii the addition of ingredients, which 
contribute nothing to tiieir efficacy. The solution 
should be fully saturated witli tlie silver, that there 
may be no more acid in it than is necessary for 
holding the metal dissolved; and besides dilution 
with water, a little spirit of wine may be added for 
the further decomposition of the acid. For dilut- 
ing the solution, distilled water, or pure rain-wa- 
ter, must be used; tlie common spring-waters turn- 
ing it milky, and precipitating a ]i;ut of the dis- 
solved silver. It is to be observed also, that if tlie 
liquor touches the skin, it has the same effect on it 
as on the matter to be staine<l, chanj^ing the part 
moistened witii it to an indelible-black. Hair may 
also be dyed of any colour in the same manner as 
wool. 

To dye biistles or feathers great. 

Take of verdigris and verditer, each 1 ounce, 
^m water 1 pint; mix them well, and dip the 
bristles or feathers, they having been first soaked 
in hot water, into the said mixture. 

Blue. — Take of indigo and risse, each 1 ounce, 
and a piece of alum the size of a hazel nut; put 
them into gum water, and dip the materials into it 
hot, hang them up to dry, and clap them well that 
they may open, and by changing the colours, tlie 
aforesaid materials may be in this manner dyed of 
any colour; for purple, use lake and indigo; for 
cai'nation, vermilion and smalt. 

Red. — Take an ounce of Brazil wood in powder, 
half an ounce of alum, a quarter of an ounce of 
vermilion, and a pint of vinegar, boil them up to a 
moderate thickness, and dip the bristles orfeathers, 
they having befen first soaked in hot water, into the 
Baid mixture. 

To dye or colour heme hair. 

Steep in water wherein a small quantity of tur- 
pentine has been boiled for the space of two hours; 
then having prepared the colours very hot, boil the 
hair therein, and any colour, black excepted, will 
take, but that will only take a dark red or dark blue, 
&c. 

To dye gloves. 

Take the colour suitable for the occasion; if 
dai-ktake Spanish brownand black earlli; if lighter, 



yellow and whiting; and so on with other colours; 
mix tliein with a moderate fire, daub the gloves 
over with the colour wet, and let them hang till 
they are dry, then beat out the superfluity of the 
colour, and smooth them over with a stretching or 
sleeking stick, reducing them to their proper shape. 
. ' To dye -white gloves purple. 

Boil four ounces of logwood and two ounces of 
roche alum in three pints of soft water till half 
wasted. Let the liquor stand to cool after strain- 
ing. Let the gloves be nicely mended, then with 
a brush rub tliem over, and when dry repeat it. 
'I'vvice is sufficient, unless the colour is to be very 
dark; when dry, rub off the loose dye with a coarse* 
cloth; beat up the white of an egg, and with a 
sponge rub it over the leather. The dye will staiii 
tlie hands; but welting them with vinegar before 
tliey are washed will take it off. 

To dye gloves resembling Limerick, 

Brown, or tan colours, are readily imparted to 
leather gloves, by the following simple process. 
Steep saffron in boiling soft water for about twelve 
hours: tlien having slightly sewed up the tops of 
the gloves to prevent the dye staining the insides, 
wet them over with a sponge or soft brush dipped 
into tlie liquid. The quantity of saffron as well as 
of water will of course depend on how much dye 
may be wanted, and their relative proportions oa 
the depth of colour required. A common tea-cup 
will contain sufficient in quantity for a single pair 
of gloves. 

To tinge bone and tvory red. 

Boil shavings of scarlet cloth in water. Allien 
it begins to boil, throw in a quarter of a pound of 
ashes made from the dregs of wine, which will ex- 
tract the colour; tlien throw in a little roche alum 
to clear it, and pass the water through a linen cloth. 
Steep the ivoiy or bone in aqua-forlis, and put into 
the water. If it is necessary to leave white spots, 
cover the place destined for them with wax. 

Black. — Take a double handful of lime, and 
slack it by sprinkling it with water; stir' it up to- 
gether, let it settle ten minutes, and pour the wa- 
ter into a pan. Then take the ivory, &c. and steep 
it in the lime water 2i hours, after which, boil it 
in strong alum water 1 hour, and dry it in the air. 

JInot/ier method. — Steep the bone or ivory dur- 
ing five or six days, in water of galls, with ashes 
made with dried dregs of wine and arsenic; then 
give it two or three layers of the sUme black, with 
w hicli plum-tree is blackened, in order to imitate 
ebony. 

Or dissolve silver in aqua-fortis, and put into it 
a little rose-water. Rub the ivory with this, and 
allow it to dry in the sun. 

Green. — This colour is imparted to ivory or bone 
by a solution of copper or verdigris in aqua-fortis, 
or by grinding together two parts of verdigris, and 
one of sal-ammoniac. 

Purple. — Take four ounces of aqua-regia, and 
one of sal-ammoniac. 

Yellow. — Ivory, hone, horn, &cc. may be stained 
yellow, by previously boiling them in a solution of 
one pound of alum, in two quarts of water, thea 
immersing them for half an hour in a liquor pre- 
part;d by boiling half a pound of turmeric in a gal- 
lon of water, until it be reduced to three quarts, 
and afterwards plunging the coloured substance 
into alum water. 

Blue. — All bony matters may be stained blue, 
by first tinging them with green, and then dipping 
them into a hut and strong solution of pearl-ashes. 
Tu prepare wood fur dyeing. 

The wood mostly used to dye black is pear-tree, 
holl^', and beach, all of which lake a beautiful black 
colour. Do not use wood that has been long cut, 
or aged, but let it be as fresh as possible. Aftct 



DYEIXG. 



93 



tlic veneers have had one hour's boiliii!^, and then 
taken out to cool, the colour is always much stronger. 
When dyed, they should be dried in the air, and 
not by the fire, nor in a kiln of any kind, as artifi- 
cial heat tends to destroy the colour. 

In order to dye blue, green, red or other colours, 
take clear holly. Put "the veneers into a box or 
trough, with clear water, and let them remain four 
or five days, changing tlie water once or twice as 
occasion mar require: the water will clear the 
■wood of slime, &c. Let them dry about twelve 
hours before they are put into the dy;^ by observ- 
ing this, the colour will strike quicker, and be of 
a brighter hue. 

To prepare turnsole for staining- -wood. 

Boil four otmces of turnsole in a i)int and a half 
of water, in which lime has been slaked. 
To stain oak a mahogann colour. 

Boil together Brazil wood and Roman alum, and 
oefore it is applied to the wood, a little potash is to 
De added to it. A suitable varnish for wood, thus 
tino-ed, may be made by dissolving amber in oil of 
turpentine, rai.ved with a small portion of linseed 

oil. 

Ebon!/-black.-~Stee\> the wood for two or (hree 
davs in luke-warm water, in which a little alum 
lias been dissolved ; then put a handfid of log- 
wood, cut small, into a pint of water, and boil it 
down to less than half a pint. If a little indigo is 
added, the colour will be more beautiful. Spread 
a layer of this liquor qnite hot on the wood with a 
pencil, which will give it a violet colour. When 
It is dry, spread on another layer; dry it again, and 
tjive it a tli'ird: then boil verdigris at discretion in 
Its own vinegar, and spread a layer of it on the 
wood: when "it is dry, rub it with a brush, and then 
with oiled chamois skin. This gives a fine black, 
and imitates perfectly the colour of ebony. 

Another method.— \kev forming the wood into 
the destined figure, rub it with aqua-fortis a little 
diluted. Small threads of wood will rise in the 
dn'ing, wiiich is to be nibbed off with pumice- 
stone, llepeat this process again, and then rub the 
•wood with the following composition; put into a 
glazed earthen vessel a pint of strong vinegar, two 
ounces of fine iron filings, and half a pound of 
pounded galls, and allow them to infuse for three 
or four hours on hot cinders. At the end of this 
time augment the fire, and pour into the vessel four 
ounces of copperas (sulphate of iron), and achopin 
of water having halt an ounce of borax and as much 
indigo dissolved in it; and make the whole boil till 
a froth rises. Rub several layers of tills upon the 
vond; and, when it is dry, polish it with leather 
on which a little tripoli has been put. 

To staiyi beech-iaood a mahoirany colour. 

Break two ounces of dragon's blood in pieces, 
and put them into a quart of rectified spirit of wine; 
let tiie bottle stand in a warm place, and shake it 
frequently. When dissolved it is fit for use. 

Anotlur method.-r-]io\\ one pound of logwood in 
four quarts of water, and add a double handful of 
valnut peeling. Boil it up again, take out the chips, 
ndd a pint of the best vinegar, and it will be fit for 
use. 

To stain musical instntments. 

Crimson. — Boil one pound of ground Brazil- 
■wood in three quarts of water for an hour; strain it, 
nnd aild half an ounce of cochineal; boil it again 
for luilf an hour gently, and it will be fit for use. 

Purple. — Boil a pound of chip logwood in three 
fjuarts of water for an hour; then add four ounces 
of pearl-ash, and two ounces of indigo pounded. 
To stain box-ivood brotvii. 

Hold the work to the fire, that it may receive a 
gentle wanath; then take aqua-fortis, and willi a 



featlier pass it over the work, till it cnanges to a 
fine brown. Then oil and polish it. 
To dj/e -eood a silver grey. 

Let not the veiieers be too dry; when put into 
the copper, pour hot iron liquor (acetate of iron) 
over them, a;id add one pound of chip-logwood 
with two ounces of bruised nut-gaHs. Then boil 
lip another pot of iron liquor to supply the copper, 
keeping the veneers covered and boiling two hours 
a dav, until thoroughly penetrated. 

Bright yeVo-w.—.K 'very small hit of aloes put 
into the varnish, will make the wood of a good yel- 
low colour. 

^Inolher method. — Reduce four pounds of the 
roots ofbarberrj% by sawing, into dust, which put in a 
copper or brass pan, add four ounces of turmeric, 
to which put four gallons of water, then put in aa 
many hoUv veneers as the liquor will cover; boil 
them together for three hours, often turning them. 
When ciiid, add two ounces of aqua fortis, and the 
dve will strike through much sooner. 

' Bright green. — Proceed as before to produce a 
vellow; but instead of aqua fortis, add as much of 
the vitriolated indigo as will produce the desired 
colour. 

Jnother method.— To three pints of the strongest 
vinegar, add four ounces of the best verdigris, 
ground fine, hnlf an ounce of sap-green, and half 
an ounce ^f indigo. Proceed in straining as before. 

Bright red.—'Yo two pounds of genuine Brazil- 
dust, add 4 gallons of water, put in as many ve- 
neers as the liquor will well cover, boil them for 
three hours, and let them cool; then add two oun- 
ces of alum, and two ounces of aqua fortis, and 
keen it luke-warm until it liM struck through. 

Purple.— To two pounds of chip log-wood, and 
half a pound of Brazil-dust, add four gallons of 
water. Put in the veneers, and boil them well; 
then add six ounces of pearl-ash and two ounces 
of alum; let them iioil two or three hours every 
dav. till the colour has struck through. _ _ _ 

Fine blue. — Into a pound of oil of vitriol in a 
glass bottle, put four ounces of indigo, and pro- 
ceed as before directed. 

To stain paper or parchment. 

TeUotv. — Paper mav be stained a beautiful yel- 
low hy the tincture of turmeric formed by infusing 
an ounce or more of tlie root, powdered, in a pint 
of spirit of wine. This mav be made to give any 
tint of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full 
colour, called French yellow, and will be equal in 
brightness even to the'best dyed silks. If yellow- 
be want d of a warmer, or redder casi, anatto, or 
•dragon's blond, must be added. The best manner 
of u'sins; these, and the following tinctures, is to 
spread'them even on the paper, or parchment, by 
means of a broad brush, in the manner of varnish. 
Crimson. — A very fine crinrison stain maybe 
given to paper by atincture of the Indian lake, 
which mav be made by infusing the lake some days 
in spirit of wine, and then pouring ofl'the tincture 
from the dregs. It may be stained red hy red ink.r 
It may also lie stained of a scarlet hue by the tinc- 
ture of dragon's blood in spirit of wine, but this 
will not be bright. 

Qreen. — Paper or parchment may be stained 
green, by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or 
by the cnstals of verdigris dissolved in water. 

Orans-'e. — Stain the paper or parchment first of 
a full yellow, hy means of the tincture of turmeric; 
then brush it over with a solution of fixed alkaline 
salt, made by dissolving half an ounce of pearl- 
ashes, or salt of tartar, in a quart of water, and fil- 
tering the solution. 

Purple. — Paper or parchment may be staine/1 
i purple, by at-chil, or by the tincture of logwood. 



94 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



The juice of ripe privet berries expressed will 
likewise give a purple dye. 

To marble the edges of books or paper. 

Dissolve four ounces of gum arable in two quarts 
of clear water; then provide several colours mixed 
with water in pots or shells, and with pencils pe- 
culiar to cacli colour, sprinkle them by way of in- 
termixture upon the gum-water, which must be 
put into a trough, or some broad vessel; then with 
a stick curl them or draw them out in streaks, to 
as much variety as required. Having done tliis, 
liold the book or books close together, and only 
dip the edges in, on the top of the water ami co- 
lours very lightly; which done, take them oft", and 
the plain impression of the colours in mixture will 
be upon the leaves; doing as well the end as tlie 
front of the books the same manner. 

To marble the covers of books. 

This is performed by forming clouds with aqua 
fortis, or spirit of vitriol, mixed with ink, and af- 
terwards glazing the covers. 

T'o colour velltim green. 

Take half a pint of the best white wine vinegar, 
an ounce of v>;r(ligris, and lialf an ounce of sap 
green; dissolve them in the vinegar for a few days, 
having been heated by the fire. Shake the bottle 
frequently before it is used. 

Wash the vellum over with weak potash water, 
and wiien dry, colour it with the - reen three or 
four times, till it has a good colour: wlieu'dry, 
vash it over with thin paste water, to give the vel- 
lum a gloss. 

To black the edges of paper. 

Mix black lead with ink, and when the paper is 
cut, colour it thinly over with black ink, witli a 
piece of fine cloth; I'ub on the black lead, cover- 
ing every part; take the dog's-tooth, and bui-nish 
the edge till it becomes well polished. 

When the edge of the paper, after cutting, ap- 
pears rather rougli, scrape it over with a piece of 
glass or an iron scraper, witli a fiat edge. 
To sprinkle the edges of books, &c. 

The brushes used for book-edges, must be made 
of Russia hogs' bristles, of good thickness, tied 
round with cord, glued at the thick end, and half 
covered with a piece of leather: when dry, tie the 
brush again with waxed cord, within half an inch 
of the soft part of it, and cut it very smooth and 
even. Brushes made after this manner are pre- 
ferable to those with a handle. 

Prepare the colour in a cup; dip in the brush 
till it is charged, and then press it out till it will 
drop no longer. . The book must be screwed tight 
in the cutting press: hold the brush in the left 
hand, and, with a folding-stick in the right, rub it 
over the brush, whicli will cause the colour to 
sprinkle finely on the edges. The brush must be 
moved up and down overthe edge, as you sprinkle, 
to have it regular on every part. After the sprink- 



ling is done, the brushes should be carefully yrA^tv- 
ed in water, particularly after sprinkling blue, 
which will otherwise soon destroy the brush. 
To dye or stain horn tortoise-shell coheir. 

The horn to be dyed must be first pressed into 
proper jdates, scales, or other flat form, and the 
following mixture prepared: take of quick-lime 
two parts, and litharge one part, temper them to- 
gether to the consistence of a soft paste, with soap- 
ley. Put this paste over all the parts of the horn, 
except such as are proper to be left transparent, in 
order to give it a near resemblance to the tortoise- 
shell. The horn must remain in this manner, co- 
vered with the paste, till it is thoroughly dry; 
when, the paste being brushed off", the horn will 
be found partly opaque and partly transparent, in 
the manner of tortoise-shell, and when' put over a 
foil of tlie kind of lattern called orsedue, will be 
scarcely distinguishable from it. It requires some 
degree of fancy and judgment to dispose of tlie 
paste in such a manner as to form a variety of 
transparent parts, of different magnitudes and 
figures, to look like the effect of nature: and it will 
be an improvement to add semi-transparent parts, 
which may be done by mixing whiting with some 
of the paste, to weaken its operation in particular 
places, by whicIi spots of a reddish-brown will be 
produced, which, if properly interspersed, espe- 
cially on the edges of the dark parts, will greatly 
increase the beauty of tlie work, and its similitude 
to real tortoise-shell. 

Jlnother method. — Take an equal quantity of 
quick-lime and red lead, and mix it up with strong 
soap lees. Lay it on the horn with a small brusli, 
like the mottle in tortoise-shell. Wheii dry, re- 
peat the Same two or three times. 

To dye horns of different colours. 

Ulack is performed by steeping brass in aqua 
fortis till it is turned green: with this the horn is 
to be washed once or twice, and tiien put into a 
warmed decoction of logwood and water. 

Green is begun by boiling it, &c. in alum-water, 
then with venligris, ammoniac, and white wine 
vinegar, keeping it hot therein till sufficiently 
green. 

Red is begun by boiling it in alum water, then 
witli verdigris, ammoniac, and finished by decoc- 
tion in a liquor compounded of quick-lime steep- 
ed in rain-water, strained, and to every pint an 
ounce of Brazil wood added. In this decoction the 
horns are to be boiled till sufficiently red. 

Horns receive a deep black stain from solution 
of silver. It ought to be diluted to such a degree 
as not sensibly to corrode the subject, and applied 
two or three times if necessary, at considerable 
intervals, the matter being exposed as much as 
possible to the sun, to hasten the appearance and 
deepening of the colour. 



BKEACKINa ATffD SCOURINa. 



To bleach chths, &c. 
The mode of bleaching which least injures the 
texture of cloth formed of vegetable substances, is 
that efi*ected by merely exposing it in a moistened 
state to the atmosphere, after having been steeped in 
a solution of potash or soda, but the length of time 



and other inconveniences attending this process 
lead to the use of more active chemical operations. 
It is by the combination of oxygen with the co- 
louring matter of the cloth, that it is deprived of 
its hue, and the difierent processes employed must 
be adapted to prepare it tor this combination, and 



BLEACHING AND SCOURING. 



95 



render it as perfect as possible ■without destroying 
its texture, an effect which, however, must neces- 
sarily ensue in a greater or less deojree from the 
union of oxygen with all bodies. The operation 
of bleacliing requires four distinct processes. First, 
to remove the spittle with which the threads are 
covered iu the operation of spinning, and what is 
called the weaver's dressing. This may be effected 
by soaking the cloth for some hours iu warm wa- 
ter, and then boiling it in an alkaline ley, prepared 
wjth 20 parts of water, and one part of the potash 
sold for this purpose, rendered more active by 
being mixed with one-third of lime. After it has 
been boiled for some hours in tliis solution, it is to 
be well washed with water, and then exposed to 
the second process — the action of oxygen, which is 
best applied by means of the oxymuriate of lime, 
sold ready prepared for this purpose. The solu- 
tion of oxymuriate of lime must be of sucii strength 
as nearly to destroy the colour of a solution of in- 
digo in water, slightly acidulated with sulphuric 
acid. The cloth is to be alternately steeped in this 
liquor, and a solution (made as before directed,) 
four or five times, using fresh liquor at each pro- 
cess. It is then to be well rubbed and washed 
with soft soap and water, which prepares it for the 
last process. 

The steeping is in a weak solution of sulphuric 
acid, and from 60 to 100 parts of water, the strength 
being tiius varied according to tlie texture of the 
cloth. This dissolves the remaining colouring 
matter wliich had resisted the action of alkali, and 
the oxymuriate of lime, as well as a small quantity 
of iron contained in all vegetable matter. Tlie 
cloth is then to be exposed to the air for some days, 
and watered, to carry off any remains of tlie acids, 
and remove the unpleasant odour it acquires from 
tlie oxymuriate of lime and potash. 

7 'o bleach Unen, &c. by oxymuriaiic acid. 

To ascertain the strength of this acid for bleach- 
ing, a solution of indigo in the sulphuric acid is 
employed. The colour of this is destroyed by tlie 
oxygenated muriatic acid; according to the quan- 
tity of it that can be discoloured by a given quan- 
tity of the liquor, its strength is known. 

In this country, machinery is employed for rins- 
ing and beating; the apparatus must be arranged 
according to the objects to be bleached; the skeins 
of thread must be suspended in the tub destined 
for them, and the cloth must be rolled upon reels 
in the apparatus. When every thing is thus dis- 
jiosed, the tubs are filled with oxygenated muriatic 
acid, by introducing a funnel, which descends to 
the bottom of the tub, in order to prevent the dis- 
persion of the gas. The cloth is wound on the 
frame work on whicii the skeins are suspended, is 
turned several times, until it is judged, by taking 
out a small quantity of the liquor from time to 
time, and tiying it by the test of the solution of 
indigo, that it is sufficiently exhausted. The 
weakened liquor is then drav/n off, and may be 
again employed for a new saturation. 

I'o bleach by oxymuriate of lime. 

To cause a large quantity of lime to combine 
with the oxyaauriatic gas, the lime is mechanically 
suspended in the water, into which the gas is made 
to pass, and agitated, so as to present fresh matter 
to the gas. By this means the oxymuriate of lime 
js formedin a very convenient manner; it isdissolv- 
ed in water, and used as a bleaching liquor. 
. This liquor is found to be prefei'able to the oxy- 
genated muriatic acid and potass. At the great 
bleach-field in h'eland, four leys of potass are ap- 
plied alternately with four weeks' exposure on the 
grass, two immersious in the oxygenated muriate 
of lime, a ley of potasli between the two, and the 



and the immersions. During summer, ti»o leys 
and fifteen days' exposure are sufficient to prepare 
cloth for the oxygenated muriate; tlie three alter- 
nate leys, with immersions in the liquor, will be 
sufficient to complete the bleaching: nothing then 
will be necessary, but lo wind the cloth through 
the sulphuric acid. 

The oxygenated muriatic acid gas may also be 
combined with lime in a dry state, or the water 
may l)e evaporated, when it is employed for the for- 
mation of oxymuriates, which may then be very 
conveniently transported to any distance without 
injury to its detersive power. 

To prepare the sulphur et of lime. 
Take of sulpiiur or brimstone, "in fine powder, 
four pounds; lime, well slaked and sifted, twenty 
pounds; water, sixteen gallons: these are to be 
well mixed, and boiled "for about half an hour in 
an iron vessel, stirring them briskly from time to 
time. Soon after the agitation of boiling is over, 
the solution of the sulphuret of lime clears, and 
may be drawn oft' free from the insoluble matter, 
which is considerable, and which rests upon the 
bottom of the boiler. The liquor, in this state, is 
pretty nearly the colour of small beer, but not 
quite so transparent. 

I'o bleach by sulphuret of lime. 
Sixteen gallons of fresh water are afterwards to 
be poured upon the insoluble dregs in the boiler, 
in order to separate the wliole of the sulphuret 
from them. When this clears (being previously 
well agitated), it is also to be drawn off and mixed 
witii the first liquor; to these again, 33 gallons more 
of water may be added, which will reduce the li- 
quor to a proper standard for steeping the cloth. 
Here we have (an allowance being made for eva- 
poration, and for the quantity retained in the dregs) 
sixty gallons of licjuor from four pounds of brim- 
stone. 

When linen is freed from the weaver's dressing, 
it is to be steeped in the solution of sulpliuret of 
lime (prepared as above) for about twelve or eight- 
een hours, then taken out and very well washed. 
When dry, it is to be steeped in the oxymuriate of 
lime for twelve or fourteen hours, and then washed 
and dried. This process is to be repeated six times, 
that is, by six alternate immersions in each liquor, 
which has been found to whiten the linen. 

Steam has been lately employed for bleaching 
with great success in France. Tiie process was 
brought from the Levant. Chapel first made it 
known to the public. 

To bleach cloth in this manner, it must be im- 
mersed in a slight alkaline caustic liquor, and 
placed in a chamber consti-ucted over a boiler, into 
which is put the alkaline ley which is to be raised 
into steam. After the fire has been lighted, and 
the cloth has remained exposed to the action of tlie 
steam for a sufficient length of time, it is taken out, 
and immersed iu tlie oxygenated muriate of lime, 
and afterwards exposed for two or three days on 
the grass. This operation, which is very expedi- 
tious, will be sufficient fgr cotton: but if linen clotlx 
should retain a yellow tint, a second alkaline caus- 
tic vapour-bath, and two or three days on the grass, 
will be sufficient to give it the necessary degree of 
whiteness. 

To bleach by alkalized steam. 
In the process of bleaching by steam, the high 
temperature swells up the fibres of the thread or ' 
cloth; the pure alkali which rises with the elastic 
fluid, seizes with avidity ou the colouring matter; 
and seldom does the tissue of the flax or hemp re- 
sist the penetrating eftect of this vapour-bath. The 
whole matter, therefore, by which they are colour- 
ed, is attacked and decomposed by this single ope- 



exposure cf a week on the grass between each ley ,1 ration; and even ifa part ofit has been able to resist. 



96 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



notliinji more is necessary but to repeat the opera- 
tion, after a previous immerston and exposure on 
Ure grass, to ensure its complete effect. The alkali 
even appears to have a much livelier and more caus- 
tic action, wlien it is combined with caloric, than 
in ordinary levs, where the temperature never rises 
above 1G2 degrees of Fahrenheit. By making the 
cloth, or thread, pass through tlie ley of oxygen- 
ated muriate of lime, an union is effected between 
the solution and the carbon, arising from the ex- 
ti-acto-mucous matter of the flax; carbonic acid is 
formed; the water even, in which tliis new com- 
pound is diluted, concurs to promote the combina- 
tion: if the cloth is then exposed on the grass, the 
carbonic acid is <lissipated, and the cloth is bleached. 
To bleach cotton. 

The first operation consists in scouring it in a 
slight alkaline solution; or wliat is better, by ex- 
posure to steam. It is afterwards put into a basket, 
and rinsed in running water. The immersion of 
cotton in an alkaline ley, however it may be rinsed, 
always leaves with it an earthy deposit. It is well 
known that cotton bears the action of acids hetter 
than hemp or flax; that time is even necessary be- 
fore tlie action of them can be prejudicial to it; and 
by taking advantage of this valuable property in 
regard to bleaching, means have been found to frt-e 
it from the earthy deposit, by pressing down the 
cotton in a very weak solution of sulphuric acid, 
and afterwards removing the acid by washing, lest 
too long remaining in it should destroy the cotton, 
'J b bleach wool. 

The first kind of bleaching to which wool is sub- 
,iected, is to free it from grease. Tliis operation 
is called scouring. In manufactories, it is gene- 
rally performed by an ammoniacal ley, formed of 
five measures of river water and one of stale urine; 
the wool is rmmersed for about 20 minutes in a 
bath of this mixture, heated to fifiy-six degrees; it 
is tJien taken out, suffered to drain, and then rinsed 
in running water: lliis manipulation softens the 
wool, and gives it the first degree of whiteness: it 
is tlien repeated a second, and even a third time, 
after which the wool is fit to be employed. In some 
places, scouring is performed witli water slightly 
impregnated with soap; and, indeed, for valuable 
articles, this process is preferable, but it is too ex- 
pensive for articles of less value. 

Sulphurous acid gas unites very easil)' with wa- 
ter, and in this combination it may be employed 
for bleaching wool and silk. 

T<i prepare the sulphurous acid. 

The most economical method is, to decompose 
sulphuric acid, by the mixture of any combustible 
matter capable of taking; from it any part of its 
oxygen. In exact experiments of the laborator}', 
vhen the chemist is desirous of having it in great 
purity, it is obtained by means of metallic sub- 
stances, and particularly by mercury; but for the 
purpose of which we are treating, where great 
€>conomy is required, we should recommend the 
most common substances. Take chopped straw, 
or saw dust, and introduce it into a matrass: pour 
over it sulphuric acid, applying at the same time 
Jieat, and there will be disengaged sulphurous acid 
gas, which may be combined with water in an ap- 
paratus. 

The pieces are rolled upon the reels, and are 
<Irawn tiirough the sulphurous acid by turning 
them, until it is observed that the whiteness is suf- 
ficiently bright. They are then taken out, and 
are left to drain on a bench covered with cloth, 
lest tliey should be stained in consequence of tlie 
decomposition of the wood by the sulphurous 
acid; they .are next washed in i-iver water, and 
Spatiish white is employed, if it should be judged 
necessary. TliJs operation is performed by pass- 



ing the pieces through a 'tub of clear water, fri 
in which about eight pounds of Spanish-white has 
been dissolved. To obtain a fine whiteness, the 
stuffs, in general, are twice sulphured. Accord- 
ing to tliis process, one immersion, and reeling 
two or three hours, are sufficient. Azuring, op 
blueing, is performed b)' throwing into the Span- 
ish-white liquor a solution of one part of Prussian 
blue to 400 parts of water; shaking the cloth in 
the liquid, and reeling it rapidl}'. Tlie oiieration 
is terminated by a slight washing willi soap, to 
give softness and pliability to the stuffs. 
To full clotlis, •wooUens, &c. 

The method of fulling woollen stuffs, with soap, 
is this: a coloured cloth, of about 45 ells, is to be 
laitl in the usual manner in the trougli of a fulling 
mill, without first soaking it in water, as is com- 
monly practised in many places. To full this 
trough of cloth, 15 pounds of soap are required, 
one-half of wliich is to be melted in two pails of 
river, or spring water, made as hot as the hand 
can well bear it. This solution is to be poured by 
little and little upon the cloth, in proportion as it 
is laid in tlie trough; after which it is to be taken 
out and stretched. Tiiis done, the clotli is imme- 
diately returned into the same trough without any 
new soap, and there fulled for two hours more. 
Then taken out it is wrung well, to express all the 
grease and filtli. After the second fulling, the re- 
mainder of the soap is dissolved in as in the for- 
mer, and cast four different times on the cloth, re- 
membering to take out the cloth every two hours 
to stretch it, and undo the plaits and wrinkles it 
has acquired in the trough. When sufficiently full- 
ed, and brought to the quality and thickness re- 
quired, scour it in hot water, keeping it in the 
trough till it is quite clean. .As to white cloths, 
as these full more easily and in less time than 
coloured ones, a third part of the soap may be 
spared. 

To prepare an improved bleaching liquor. 

This is effected by a dissolution in water of the 
oxygenated muriates of calcareous earth, barytes, 
strontites, or magnesia. The earths should be 
prepared in the dry way, by bringing them in a 
solid form, in powder, or in paste, in contact with 
the oxj'genated muriatic acid gas. 8o prepared, 
dissolve them in water, and apply them to the sub- 
stances required to be bleached. By this mode, co- 
lours may be removed from linen, cotton, and ve 
getable and animal substances. 

Another. — Take of salts, 8 [larts, sulphuric acid 
5 do. black oxide of manganese, 3 do. water, 3 do. 
To bleach silk. 

Take a solution of caustic soda, so Aveak as to 
make only a fourth of a degree, at most, of the 
areometer for salts, and fill witii it the boiler of 
the apparatus for bleaching with steam. Charge 
the frames with skeins of raw silk, and place tliem 
in the apparatus until it is full; then close the door, 
and make the solution boil. Having continued 
the ebullition for twelve hours, slacken the fire, 
and open the door of the apparatus. The heat of 
the steam, which is alwavs above 250 degrees, will 
have been sufficient to free the silk from the gum, 
and to scour it. AVash the skeins in warm water; 
and having wrung them, place them again on the 
frames in the apparatus, to undergo a second boil- 
ing. Then wash them several times in water, and 
immerse them in water somewhat soajiy, to give 
tiiem a little softness. Notwithstanding the white- 
ness which silk acquires by tiiese different opera- 
tions, it must be carried to a higher degree ot 
splendour by exposing it to the action of sulphur- 
ous acid gas, in a close chamber, or by immersing 
it in sulphurous acid, as before recommended foi 
wool. 



BLEACHING AND SCOURING. 



97 



To bleach prints andprhited books. 
Simple immersion in oxygenated mnriatic acid, 
letting the article remain in it a longer or shorter 
space of time, according to the strength of' the li- 
quor, will be sufficient to whiten an engraving: if 
it is required to whiten the paper of a bound book, 
as it is necessary that all the leaves sliould be 
moistened by the acid, care must be taken to open 
the book well, and to make the boards rest on the 
edge of the vessel, in such a manner that the pa- 
per alone shall be dipped in the liquid; the leaves 
must be separated from each other, in order that 
they may be equally moistened on both sides. 
Jiare's method of bleaching shell-lac. 

Dissolve in an iron kettle one part of peai'l ash 
in about eight parts of water, add one part of shell 
or seed lac, and heat the whole to ebullition. 
Wlien tiie lac is dissolved cool the solution and 
impregnate it with chlorine, till the lac is all pre- 
cipitated. 

To -wash chintz. 

Take two pounds of rice, boil it in two gallons 
of water till soft; then pour the whole into a tub; 
let it stand till about the warmth in general used for 
coloured linens; then put the chintz in, and use 
the rice instead of soap; wash it in this, till the 
dirt appears to be out, then boil the same quantity 
asl above, but strain the rice from the water, and 
mix it in warm clear water. Wash in this till 
quite clean; afterwards rinse it in the water which 
the rice has been boiled in, and this will answer 
the end of starch, and no dew will affect it. If a 
Bown, it must be taken to pieces, and wlien dried 
be careful to hang it as smooth as possible; — after 
it is dry, rub it with a sleek stone, but use no iron. 
To -wash fine lace or hnen. 

Take a gallon of furze blossoms and bum them 
to ashes, then boil them in six cjuarts of soft water; 
this, when fine, use in wasiiing with tlie suds, as 
occasion requires, and the linen, &c. will not only 
be exceedingly white, but it is done with half the 
soap, and little trouble. 

To clean black and •tohite sarcenets. 

Lay these smooth and even upon a board, spread 
a Ikile soap over the dirty places; then make a 
lather with Castille soap, and with a common 
brush, dip it in, pass it over the long way, and re- 
jieat it in this manner, till one side is sufficiently 
scoured; use the other in the same manner; then 
put it into hot water, and there let it lie, tiil you 
Lave prepared some cold water, wherein a small 
quantity of gum arabie has been dissolved. Now, 
rinse them well, take them out and fold them, 
pressing out the water with tlie hands on the 
board, and keeping them under the hands till they 
are diy ; at which time, have brimstone ready to dry 
them over, till they are ready for smoothing, which 
must be done on the right side, with a moderate 
hot iron. 

To -wash and stain tiffanies. 

Let the hems of the tift'anies be at first only a 
little soaped, then having a lather of soap, put 
them into it hot, and wash them very gently for 
fear they should be crumpled: and when they are 
dean, rinse them in warm water, in which a little 
gum arabie has been dissolved, keeping them from 
the air as much as possible; then add a lump of 
starch, wet the tiffanies with a soft linen rag, and 
fold them up in a clean cloth, pressing them till 
they are near dry; after which ptit them near the 
fire, and finish the drying over brimstone; then 
fchape them properly by gently ironing them. 
To wash and starch lawns. 

Lawns may be done in the same manner as the 

former, only, observe to iron them on the wrong 

side, and use gum arabie water instead of 

ttareh, and, according to wliat lias been directed 

N 



for sarcenets, any coloured silks may be stai'ched, 
abating or augmenting the gum water, as may be 
thought fit, according to the stiffness intended. 
7'o clean buff coloured cloth. 
Take tobacco-pipe clay, and mix it with water 
till it is as thick as lime-water used for white- 
washing rooms; spread this over the cloth, and A 
when it is drj', rub it off with a brush, and the 
cloth will look extremely well. 

To make saponaceous ley for -washing. 
Boil together in a sufficient quantity of water, a 
gallon of good wood-ashes, and two or three liands- 
lul of fresh burnt lime. Leave the lixivium at 
rest, till the extraneous matters have been deposit- 
ed at the bottom, or thrown to the surface to be 
skimmed off. Then draw off the pure lixivium, 
add to it oil, to about a thirtieth or fortieth part of 
its own quantity. The mixture will be a liquor 
white as milk, capable of frothing like soap- water, 
and in dilution with water, perfectly fit to commiv- 
nicate sufficient whiteness to linen. This liquor 
may be prepared from wood-ashes of all sorts, and 
from rancid grease, oil, or butter. It is tlierefore - 
highly worthy the attention of the economist 
When the ashes are suspected to be unusually de- 
ficient in alkali, a small addition of pulverized 
potash or soda may be made to the lixivium. 
To clecm and starch point lace. 
Fix the lace in a prepared tent, draw it straight, 
make a warm lather of Castille soap, and, with -a 
fine brush dipped in, rub over the point gently; and 
wlien it is clean on one side, do the same to the 
other; then throw some clean water on it, in v.'hich 
a little alum has been dissolved, to take off the suds, 
and having some thin starcli, go over with the same 
on the wrong side, and iron it on the same side j. 
when dry, then open it with a bodkin, and set it in 
order.. 

To clean point lace, if not very dirty, without 
washipg; fix it in a tent as the former, and go over 
M'ith fine bread, the crust being pared off, and when 
it is done, dust out the crumbs, &c. 
To clean white veils. 
Put the veil in a solution of white soap, and let 
it simmer a quarter of an hour. Squeeze it in some 
warm water and soap, till quite clean. Rinse it 
from soap, and then in clean cold water, in which 
is a drop of liquid blue. Then pour boiling water 
upon a tea-spoonful of starch, run the veil tlirough 
this, and clear it well, by clapping it. Afterwards 
pin it out, keeping the edges straight and even. 
To clean black veils. 
Pass them through a warm liquor of bullock's 
gall and water; rinse in cold water; then take a 
small piece of glue, pour boiling water on it, ami 
pass the veil through it; clap it, and frame it to dry. 
7'o clea?i white satin andfiowered silks. 
Mix sifted stale bread crumbs with powder blue, 
and rub it thoroughly all over, then shake it well, 
and dust it with clean soft cloths. Afterwards, 
where there ai-e any gold or silver flowers, take a 
piece of crimson ingrain velvet, i-ub tiie fiowers 
with it, which will restore them to their original 
lustre. 

Another Tnethod.—Vuss them through a solution 
of fine hard soap, at a hand heat, drawing them 
tlirough the hand. Rinse in lukewarm water, dry 
and finish by pinning out. Brush the flossy or 
bright side with a clean clothes' brush, the way of 
the nap. Finish them by dipping a sponge into a 
size, made by boiling isinglass in water and rub 
the wrong side. Rinse out a second time, and 
brush and dry near a fire, or in a warm room. 

Silks may be treated in the same way, but not 
brushed. If the silks are for dyeing, instead of 
passing them through a solution of soap and water, 
they must be boiled off; but if the silks are very 



98 



UNI\TERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



stout, flie water must only be of heat sufficient to 
extract tlie dirt, and when rinsed in warm water, 
Uiey hre in a state for the dye. 

Jlnother method. — Strew French chalk over them 
and brusli it off witli a hard brush once or twice. 
To clean coloured silks of all kinds. 
Put some soft soap into boiliiig water, and beat 
it till dissolved in a strong lather. At a hand heat 
put in the article. If strong, it may be rubbed as 
in Mashing; rinse it quickly in wai-m water, and 
add oil of vitriol, sufficient to give another watera 
sourish laste, if for bright yellows, crimsons, ma- 
roons, and scarlets; but for oranges, fawns, browns, 
oi: tlieir shades, use no acid. For bright scarlet, 
use a solution of tin. Gently squeeze and then 
roll it in a coarse sheet, and wring it. Hang it in 
a warm room to dry, and finish it by calendering 
or mangling. 

For pinks, rose colours, and thin shades, &c. in- 
stead of oil of vitriol, or solution of tin, prefer 
lemon juice, or white tartar, or vinegar. 

For blues, purples, and their shades, add a small 
quantity of American pearl-asli; it will restore the 
colours. Wash ll>e articles like a linen garment, 
but, instead of wringing, gently squeeze and sheet 
them, and wlien dry, hnish them with fine gum 
■water, or dissolved "isinglass, to which add some 
pearl-ash, rubbed on the wrong side; then pin them 
out. 

Blues of all shades are dyed with archil, and af- 
terwards dipped in a vat; twice cleaning with pearl- 
ash, restores the colour. For olive greens, a small 
quantity of verdigi'is dissolved in water, or a solu- 
tion of copper, mixed With the water, will revive 
tlie colour again. 

To clean black silks. 
To bullock's gall, add boiling water sufficient to 
make it warm, and with a clean sponge, rub tlie 
silk well on both sides, squeeze it well out, and 
proceed again in like manner. Rinse it in spring 
water, and change tlie water till perfectly clean, 
dry it in the air, and pin it out on a table; but f.rst 
dip the sponge in glue-water, and rub it on tliC 
wrong side; then diy it before a fire. 
Tb dip nisty black silks. 
If it requires to be red dyed, boil logwood; and 
in half an hour, put in the silk, and let it simmer 
lialf an hour. Take it out, and dissolve a little 
blue vitriol and green copperas, cool the copper, 
let it simmer half an hour, then dry it over a slick 
in the air. If not red dyed, pin it out, and rinse it 
in spring water, in which half a tea-spoonful of oil 
' of vitriol has been put. Work it about five minutes, 
rinse it in cold water, and finish it by pinning and 
cubbing it with gum water. 

2^0 clean silk stockings. 
Wash with soap and water; and simmer them in 
the same for ten minutes, rinsing in cold water, 
for a blue cast, put one drop of liquid blue, into a 
pan of cold spring water, run the stockings through 
this a minute or two, and dry them. For a pink 
cast, put one or two drops of saturated pink dye 
into cold water, and rinse them through this. F'or 
a flesh-colour, add a little rose pink in a thin soap- 
liquor, rub them with clean flannel, and calendei- 
or mangle them. 

To extract grease spots from silks and coloured 
muslins, &c. 
Scrape French chalk, put it on the grease-spot, 
and hold it near the fire, or over a warm iron, or 
water-plate, filled with boiling water. The grease 
will melt, and the French chalk absorb it, brush 
or rub it oft'. Repeat if necessary. 

To take stains out of silk. 
Mixtogetherin a phial, 2oz. of essence oflemon, 
1 oz. of oil of turpentine. 
Grease and other spots in silks, are to be rubbed 



gently with a linen rag dipped in the above com- 
position. 

To take spots of paint from cloth, silks, &c. 

Dip a pen in spirit of tiniientine, and transfer it 
to the paint spot, in sufficient quantity to discharge 
the oil and gluten. Let it stand some hours, then 
rub it. 

For large or numerous spots, apply t^e spirit of 
turpentine with a sponge, if possible before it is 
become tlry. 

To scour yam. 

It should be laid in lukewarm water for three or 
four days, each day shifting it once, wringing it out, 
and laying it in another water of the same nature; 
then Carry it to a well or brook, and rinse it tiK 
nothing comes from it but pure clean water: that 
done, take a bucking-tub, and cover the bottom 
with very fine aspen ashes; and then having opened 
and spread the slippings, lay them on those ashes, 
and put more ashes above, and lay in more slip- 
pings, covering them with ashes as before; then lay 
one upon another till the yarn is put in; afterwards 
cover up the uppermost yarn with a bucking-cloth, 
and, in proportion to the size of the tub, lay in a 
peck or two more of ashes; tiiis done, pour upon 
the uppermost cloth, a great deal of warm water 
till the tub can receive no more, and let it stand so 
all night. Next morning set a kettle of clean wa- 
ter on the fire; and when it is warm, pull out the 
spiggut of the bucking-tub, to let the water run 
out of it into another clean vessel; as the bucking- 
tub wastes, fill it up again with warm water on the 
fire; and as the water on the fire wastes, so like- 
wise fill up that with the ley that comes from tlie 
bucking-tub, ever observing to make the ley hotter 
and Iiotter, till it boils: then you must, as before, 
j)ly it with the boiling ley at least four hours toge- 
ther. For whitening, you nmst take off this buck- 
ing-cloth; then putting the yarn witii the ley ashea 
into large tubs, with your hands labour the yarn, 
ashes, and ley, pretty well together, afterwards 
carry it to a well or river, and rinse it clean; then 
hang it upon poles in the air all day, and in the 
evening take the slippings down, and lay them in 
water all night; the next day hang them up ag^in, 
and throw water on them as they dry, observing to 
turn that side outermost, which whitens slowest. 
After having done this for a week together, put all 
the yarn again into a bucking-tub, without ashes, 
covering it as before with a bucking-cloth; lay 
thereon good store of fresh ashes, and drive that 
buck, as before, with very strong boiling ley, for 
half a day, or more; then take it out, and rinse it. 
hanging it up, as before, in the day time, to dry, 
and laying it in water at night, another week. 
Lastly, wash it over in fair water, atid dry it. 
To scour thick cotton counterpanes. 

Cut a pound of mottled soap into tliin slices; and 
put it into a pan with a quarter of an ounce of pot- 
ash, and an ounce of pearl-ash. Pour a pail of 
boiling water on it, and let it stand till dissolved. 
Then pour hot and cold water into a scouring tub, 
with a bowl of the solution. Put in the counter- 
pane, beat it well, turn it often, and give it a se- 
cond liquor as before, then rinse it in cold water. 
Now put three tea-spoonsful of liquid blue into a 
thin liquor; stir it, and put in the counterpane: 
beat it about five minutes, and dry it in tjie air. 
To scour undyed xvoollens. 

Cut ^ a pound of the best yellow soap into thin 
slices, and pour such a quantitj' of boiling river 
water on it as will dissolve the soap, and make it 
of the consistence of oil. Cover the articles about 
two inches with water such as the hand can bear, 
and add a lump of American pearl-ash, and about 
a third of the soup solution. Beat them till i>o 
heau or latlier rises on the waterj tlirow away tlie 



BLEACHING AJTD SCOURING. 



99 



dirty water, and proceed as before with hotter wa- 
ter without pearl-aslj. 

To scour clothes, coats, pelisses, &c. 
If a black, blue, or brown coat, dry 2 ounces of 
fuller's earth, «nd pour on it sufficient boiling wa- 
ter to dissolve it, and plaster with it the spots of 
grease; take a pennywortli of bullock's gall, mix 
with it half a pint of stale urine; and a little boil- 
ing water; with a hard brush dipped in this liquor, 
brush spoiled places. Then dip the coat in a bucket 
of cold spring water. When neai-ly dry, lay the 
nap right, and pass a drop of oil of olives over the 
brush to finish it. 

If grey, drab, fawns, or maroons, cut yellow soap 
into thin slices, and pour water upon it to moisten 
it. Rub the greasy and dirtj' spots of the coat. 
Let it diy a little, and then brush it with warm 
water, repeating, if necessary, as at first, and use 
water a little hotter; rinse several times, in wai'm 
water, and finish as before. 

To scour carpets, hearth-rugs, &c. 
Rub a piece of soap on every spot of grease or 
dirt; then take a hard brush dipped in boiling wa- 
ter, and rub the spots well. If veiy dirty, a solu- 
tion of soaj) must be put into a tub, with hot water, 
and the carpet well beat in it, rinsing it in several 
clean waters, putting in the last water a table 
spoonful of oil of vitriol, to brighten the colours. 
To clean cotton go-^vns. 
Make a solution of soap, put in the articles, and 
wash them in the usual way. If greens, reds, &c. 
run, add lemon juice, vinegar, or oil of vitriol, to 
the rinsing •water. 

To clean scarlet cloth. 
Dissolve the best white soap; and if black-look- 
ing spots appear, rub dry soap on them; while the 
other soap is dissolving; with hot water, brush it 
otf. If vei"y dirty, immerse tlie article into the 
warm solution, and rub the stained ])arts. Dispatch 
it quickly, and as soon as the colour begins to give, 
wring it out, and immerse it in a pan or pail of 
warm water; wring it again, and immerse it in cold 
spring water, in which mix a table spoonful of so- 
lution of tin. Stir it about, and in ten minutes, 
hang it to diy in the shade, and cold press it. 

Another 7nethod. — On a quarter of a peck of 
wheaten bran, pour boiling water in a hair sieve. 
In the bran- water at a hand beat, immerse the cloth, 
and rub it, looking through it, to see the spots. To 
a second liijuor, add neiu-ly a quarter of an ounce 
of white or crude tartai'. It darkened, make a clean 
liquor of cold spring water with a drop or two of 
solution of tin, soak it in ten minutes, wring it, and 
liang it up to dry. 

To dip scarlet cloth. 
After it has been thoroughly cleaned with soap, 
and rinsed in warm water, put into boiling spring 
water, a quarter of a pound of young fustic, or zant, 
a drachm of pounded and sifted cochineal, and an 
equal quantity of cream of tartar and cochineal; 
boil five or six minutes, and cool by adding a pint 
or two of cold spring water, and a table spoonful 
of the solution of tin. Stir the mixture, put in the 
cloXli, boil for ten minutes, and when dry, cold 
press it 

To raise the nap on cloth. 
Soak in cold water for half an hour, then put on 
a board, and rub the thread-bare parts with a half- 
worn hatter's card, filled with flocks, or with a 
prickly thistle, until a nap is raised. Hang up to 
diy, and witli a bai-d brush lay the nap tlie right 
way. 

To revive faded black cloth. 
Having cleaned it well, boil two or three ounces 
of logwood for half an hour. Dip it in warm wa- 
ter and squeeze it dry, then put it into the copper, 
and boil half au houi'. Take it out and add a small- 



piece of green copperas, and boil it another half 
hour. Hang it in the air for an hour or two, then 
rinse it in two or three cold waters, dry it and let 
it be regularly brushed with a soft binish, over 
which a drop or two of oil of olives has been rub- 
bed. 

To dry clean cloth. 
Dip a brush in warm gall, and apply it to greasy 
places, rinse it oft" in cold water; dry by the fire, 
tlien lay the coat flat, strew damp sand over it, and 
with a brush beat the sand into the cloth; then 
brush it out with a hard brush, and the sand will 
b\-ing away the dirt. Rub a drop of oil of olives 
over a soft brush, to brighten the colours. 
To bvcach -wool, silks, struw bonnets, &c. 
Put a chafing dish with some lighted charcoal 
into a close room, or large box; then strew an ounc» 
or two of powdered brimstone on the hot coals. 
Hang the articles in the room or box, make the 
door fast, and let them hang some hours. Fine 
coloured woollens are thus sulphured before dyed, 
and straw bonnets are thus bleached. 

To take iron-mmdds out of linen. 
Hold the iron mould on the cover of a tankard 
of boiling water, and rub on the spot a little juice 
of sorrel and salt, and when the cloth has thorough- 
ly imbibed tlie juice, wash it in ley. 
To make breeches-ball. 
Mix I pound of lialh brick, 2 pounds of pipe- 
clay, 4 ounces of pumice stone powder, and 6 
ounces of ox gall; colour them with rose pink, yel- 
low ochre, Uiubci", Irish slate, Ssc. to any desired 
shade. 

Clothes^ ball. 
Mix two pounds of pipe clay, 4 ounces of ful- 
ler's earth, 4 ounces of whiting, and a quarter of a 
pint of ox galls. 

'I'o take grease out of leather breeches. 
The white of an egg applied to the injured part, 
and dried in the sun, will eflectuaily answer this 
pui-pose. 

Another method. — To two table spoonsful of spi- 
rits of turpentine, put half an ounce of mealy pota- 
toes, add some of the best Durham mustard, with 
a little vinegar; let them dry, and when well rub- 
bed, the spots will be entirely removed. 
To prepare a chemical liqiud for cleaning' boot- 
tops, &c. 
Mix in a phial, one drachm of oxymuriate of 
potass, with two ounces of distilled water; and 
when the salt is dissolved, add two ounces of mu- 
riatic acid. Then shake well together, mix in an- 
other phial three ounces of rectified spirit of wine 
with half an ounce of the essential oil of lemon, 
unite the contents of tlie two phials, and keep the 
liquid, thus prepared, closely corke<i for use. Tliis 
chemical liquid should be applied with a clean 
sponge, and dried in a gentle heat; after which, 
the boot-tops may be polished with a proper brush, 
so as to appear like new leather. 

Another method. — Take of white vitriol, powder- 
ed, I oz. acid of sugar, 1 oz. water, 1 quaiL Mix 
together. 
Put a label on it, «*Rank Poison." 
Sponge the tops with water first; then mix with 
tlie liquid, and then with water again. 

To cleanse feathers from animal oil. 
Mix well witli a gallon of clear water, a pound 
of quick lime; and, when the lime is precipitated 
in fine powder, pour oft" the clear lime-water for 
use, at the time it is wanted. Put the feathers to 
be cleaned in a tub, ajid add to them a sufficient 
quantity of the clear lime-water, so as to cover 
them about three inches. The feathers, when tho- 
i-oughly moistened, will sink down, and should 
remain in the lime-water for tlu-ee or four days; 
aftar which, the fotU li(juor should be sepai-ateU 



100 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



from them by laying them on a sieve. Afterwards, 
well wash them in clean water, and dry them on 
nets, about the same fineness as cabba2;e nets. 
Shake them from time to time on the nets; as they 
flry, they will fall through the maslies, when col- 
lect tliem for use. Tlie admission of air will be 
serviceable in the dryinp;, and tlie whole process 
may be completed in about three weeks. The 
feathers, thus prepared, want nothing further than 
beatings, to be used eitlier for beds, bolsters, pil- 
lows, &c. 

To clean leather. 

Take of French yellow ochre, 1 lb. sweet oil, a 
•dessert spoonful. Mix well together, so that the 
oil may not be seen: then take of pipe clay 1 lb. 
starch a quai'ter of a lb. Mix with 1)oiling water; 
•when cold, lay it on the leather. When diy, rub 
and bi-ush it well. 

7'o make scouring balls. 

Portable balls, for removing spots from clothes, 
may be thus prepared. Fuller's earth perfectly 
dried, (so that it crumbles into a powder) is to be 
moistened with the clear juice of lemons, and a 
small quantity of pure pearl-ashes is to be added. 
Knead tiie whole carefully together, till it acquires 
the consistence of a thick elastic paste: form it into 
convenient small balls, and diy them in the sun. 
To be used, first moisten the spot on the clothes 
■with water, tlien rub it with the ball, and let the 
spot dry in the sun; after having washed it with 
pure water, the spot will entirely disappear. 
7'o clean marble. 

Take verdigris and pumice-stone, well powder- 
ed, with lime newly slaked. Mix with soap lees, 
to the consistence of puttj\ Put it in a woollen 
i-ag, and rub the stains well one way. Wash oft' 
■with soap and water. Repeat, if not removed. 
To take stains out of silver plate. 

Steep the plate in soap leys for the space of four 
hours; then cover it over with wliiting, wet with 
vinegar, so that it may stick thick upon it, and dry 
it by a fire; after whicli, rub off" the whiting, and 
pass it over with diy bran, and the spots will not 
only disappear, but the plate will look exceedingly 
bright. 

To make plate look like ne^v. 

Take of unslaked lime and alum, a pound each, 
of aqua-vitse and vinegar, each a pint, and of beer 
grounds, two quarts; boil the plate in tliese, and 
they will set a beautiful gloss upon it. 
To take out fruit spots. 

Let the spotted part of "the cloth imbibe a little 
■vvater without dipping, and hold the part over a 
lighted common brimstone matcli at a proper dis- 
tance. The sulphurout gas, which is discharged, 
soou causes the spots to disappear. 

To clean gold lace and embroidery. 

For this purpose no alkaline liquors are to be 
used; for while they clean the gold they corrode 
the silk, and change or discharge its colour. Soap 
also .alters the sliade, and even the species -of cer- 
tain colours. But spirit of wine may be used with- 
out any danger of its injuring either colour or qua- 
lity; and, in many cases, proves as effectual for re- 
storing the lustre of the gold, as the corrosive de- 
tergents. But, though spirit of ^Yine is the most 
innocent material employed for this purpose, it is 
not in all cases proper. The golden covering may 
he in some parts worn off; or the base metal, with 
■which it has been alloyed, may be corroded by the 
air, so as to leave the particles of the gold disunit- 
ed; while the silver underneath, tarnished to a yel- 
low hue, may continue a tolerable colour to the 
Avhole; so it is apparent that the removal of the tar- 
nish would be prejudicial, and make the lace or 
embroidery less like gold than it was before. 



To remove spots of grease from cloth. 
Spots of grease may be removed by a diluted so- 
lution of potash, but iliis must be cautiously appli- 
ed, to prev<;nt injury to the cloth. Stains of white 
wax, which somethnes fall ujjon clothes from 
wax-candles, are removed by spirits of turpentine, 
or sulphuric ether. The marks of white paint may 
also be discharged by the al)ove mentioned agents. 
To take milde^v out of linen. 
Rub it "vvell with soaj): then scrape some fine 
chalk, and rub that also in the linen, lay it on the 
grass; as it dries, wet it a little, and it will come 
out after twice doing. 

To take out spots of ink. 
As soon as the accident happens, wet the place 
with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and 
the best hard white soap. 

To take out stai/is of cloth or silk. 
Pound French chalk fine, mix with lavender-wa. 
ter to the thickness of mustard. Put on the stain; 
rub it soft with the finger or palm of the hand. Put 
a sheet of blotting and brown paper on the top, and 
smooth it with an iron milk-warm. 

7'o remove grease spots from paper. 
Let the paper stained with grease, wax, oil, av 
any other fat body, be ";ently warmed, taking out 
as much as possible of it, by blotting paper. Uip 
a small brusli in the essential oil of well-rectified 
spirits of turpentine, heated almost to ebullition 
(for when cold it acts very weakly), and draw it 
gently over both sides of the paper, wiiich must be 
carefully kept warm. Let this operation be repeat- 
ed as many times as the quantity of the fat-body, 
imbibed by the paper, or the tliickness of the pa» 
per, may render it necessaiy. When the greasy 
substance is removed, to restore the paper to its 
former whiteness,, dip another brush in highly reo- 
tified spirit of wine, and draw it, in like manner, 
over the place; and particularly around the edges, 
to remove the border that would still present a 
stain. If the process has been employed on a part, 
written on with common ink, or printed witli prin- 
ter's ink, it will experience no alteration. 

Jinother metliod. — Take of roche-alura burnt, 
and flour of brimstone, an equal quantity of eachj 
and reducing them to a fine powder, wet the pape? 
a little, put a small quantity of tlie powder upon 
tlie place, and the spots will disappear. 

Another. — Scrape finely, some pipe-clay, (tlie 
quantity will be easily determined on making the 
experiment) on this lay the sheet or leaf, and cover 
the spot, in like manner, with tlie clay. Cove? 
the whole with a sheet of paper, and apply, for a 
few seconds, a heated ironing box, or any substi-- ' 
tute adopted by laundresses. On using Indian rub- 
ber, to remove the dust taken up by the grease, the 
paper will be found restored to its original white- 
ness and opacity. Tliis simple method has often 
proved much more eftectual than turpentine, and 
was remarkably so, in an instance, where the folio 
of a ledger had exhibited the marks of candle grease 
and the snuff, for more than twelve months. 
To cleanse gloves -without ivetiing. 
Lay the gloves upon a clean board, make a mix- 
ture of dried fulling-earth, and powdered alum, and 
pass them over on each side with a common stiff 
brush: tlien sweep it off, and sprinkle them well 
with dry bran and whiting, and dust them well; 
this, it they be not exceedingly greasy, will rendey 
them quite clean; but if t!iey are much soiled take 
out the grease with crumbs of toasted bread, and 
powder of burnt bone: then pass them over with a 
woollen cloth dipped in fulling earth or alum pow- 
der: and in this manner they can be cleaned with- 
out wetting, which frequently shrinks and spoils 
them. • 



BLEACHING AND SCOURING. 



101 



Fullers^ purifier- for luoollen cloths. 
Dry, pulverize, and sift die following ingredi- 
ents: — 

6 lbs. of fuller's earth, 1 lb. of pipe clay, and 4 
oz. of French chalk. 

Make a paste of the above with the following: — 
1 oz. of rectified oil of turpentine, 2 oz. of spi- 
rit of wine, and 1^ lbs. of melted oil soa]). 

Make up the compound into six-penny or shil- 
ling cakes for sale. These cakes are to be kept in 
■water, or in small wooden boxes. 

To clean all sorts of metal. 
Mix half a ])int of refined neat 's-foot oil, and half 
a gill of spirits of tarpentine. Scrape a little ker- 
nel or rotten stone; wet a woollen rag therewith, dip 
it into the scraped kernel, and rub tlie metal well. 
Wipe it off with a soft cloth, polish with dry lea- 
ther, and use more df the kernel. In respect to 
steel, if it is very rusty, use a little powder of pu- 
mice with the liquid, on a separate woollen rag 
first. 

To take stains out ofmalios^ariy. 
Mix 6 ounces of spirit of salts, and ^ an ounce of 
rock salt of lemons (powdered) together. Drop a 
little on the stain, and rub it with a cork till it dis- 
appear. Wasii off with cold water. 

Another method. — Take 2 ounces of oil of vitriol, 
and 1 ounce of muriatic acid, or spirit of salts. Mix, 
by shaking in a phial, and wlien to be used lay it 
over the spotted part by means of a feather, or 
■woollen rag. Afterwards wash the part over with 
v^'ate^, and polish as usual. 

'J'o take out -writing. 
When recently written, ink may be completely 
removed by tlie oxvmuriatic acid, (concentrated 
and in solution). The paper is to be washed over 
repeatedly with the acid; but it will be necessaiy 
afterwards to wash it with lime water, for the pur- 
pose of neutralizing any acid tliat may be left on 
the paper, and wliich would considerably weaken 
it. If the ink has been long written, it will have 
undergone such a change as to prevent the preced- 
ing process acting. It ought therefore to be wash- 
ed with liver of sulphur (sulphuret of ammonia) 
before the oxymuriatic acid is applied. It may be 
washed with a hair pencil. 

To restore -whites in ancient pictures. 
Carbonate of lead, exposed for some time to hy- 
dro-sulphuretted vapours, will become black, be- 
ing converted to sulphuret. This colour, when 
used with oil, and covered witli a varnish which 
defends it from the immediate contact of the air, 



may be preserved for several ages, as is proved by 
the paintings of the fifteenth century. But when 
nothing protects it from the sulpkurous vapours 
floatihs; in the atmosphere, as is the case in distem- 
per colours, this substance should be avoided, if a 
permanent colour is intended. 

Among the numerous properties ■which belong to 
the oxygenated water discovered by M. Thenard, 
one is, instantly to change the black of sulphuret 
of lead to white. A bottle of weakly oxygenated 
water, containing not more than 5 or 6 volumes of 
oxygen, and quite tasteless, being applied to the 
black spots with a few dips of the brush, they have 
disappeared as if by enchantment. The ground, 
being coloured by a light tint of bistre, was not, in 
the slightest degree, altered, and the painting has 
been completely restored, without the addition of 
a single touch, to the original design. 

To restore hangings, carpets, chairs, &c. 

Beat the dust out of them as clean as possible, 
then rub them over with a dry brush, and make- a 
good lather of Castille soap, and rub them well 
over with a hard brush, then take clean water and 
with it wash off the froth, make a water with alum, 
and wash them over with it, and when dry, most of 
the colours will be restored in a short time; and 
those that are yet too faint, must be touched up 
with a pencil dipped in suitable colours: it maybe 
run all over in the same manner witli water colours 
mixed well with gum water, and it will look at a 
distance like new. 

To clean paper hangings. 

Cut into eight half quarters a stale quartern loaf: 
with one of these pieces, after having blown off all 
the dust from the paper to be cleaned by means of 
a good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the» 
room, holding the crust in the hand, aad wiping 
lightly downward with the crumb, about half a 
yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hang- 
ings is completel}' cleaned all round; then go again 
round with the like sweeping stroke downward, 
always commencing each successive course a little 
higher than the upper stroke had extended, till 
the bottom be finished. This operation, if care- 
fully performed, will frequently make veiy old 
paper look almost equal to new. Great caution 
must be used not by any means to rub the paper 
hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross or hori- 
zontal way. The dirty part of the bread too must 
be each time c_t away, and the pieces renewed as 
soon as at all necessary. 



CZSMZNTS. 



To make an improved hulding cement. 

This method consists in the employment of cer- 
tain burnt or vitrified earths, and metallic and other 
substances, which are pounded or ground to pow- 
der, and mixed with lime. • 

The earthy substances used, are all those kinds 
of clay or loam that are capable of becoming vitri- 
fied and intensely hard, by exposure to a strong 
fire; chalk, and such earths as become soft and fall 
to pieces, when exposed to heat, are unfit for the 
purpose; but flint stones and pebbles may be used 
with advantage. 

The proper kinds of earth being thus selected, 



the material is heated in the interior of a brick- 
kiln, or furnace, until it becomes completely vitri- 
fied or reduced to a state of hard, black, or glossy 
clay, and this vitrification will sometimes be im- 
proved, by mixing refuse or broken glass, or sand 
and wood-ashes, with sand or vitrified material?, 
such as those which come from the furnaces of 
smelting-houses, glass-houses, foundries, Sec. or 
any materials reduced to a state of vitrification by 
intense heat. These materials are then to be 
bruised, pounded, or ground, and sifted through a 
wire sieve, until reduced to such a state of fine- 
ness as may be proper for mixing up as a plaster. 

1 2 



102 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Thus prepared, the materials are to be sorted into 
different qualities, and put up for use. 

Mminer of using it. — The manner of using this 
material, is by mixing it >vith well-burnt lintie in- 
stead of the sand usually employed in the comi)o- 
sition of stucco or cement, to which water must be 
added, until a proper consistency is obtained. 
This artificial Puzzolene may be mixed with 
quick lime, completely pulverized, and put into 
casks for use; it is, however, necessaiyto keep it 
from moisture, or exposure to the open air. The 
proportion of quick-lime to be added to tlie above 
materials, depends entirely upon tlie strength of 
the lime: in general, one measure of good lime 
will be sufficient for from tliree to five measures of 
the material. 

Another part of the improvement consists in 
the introduction of various coloured bricks, which, 
highly burnt or vitrified, and reduced to powder, 
are to be mixed up with the artificial Puzzolene, 
in order to produce spots or streaks, iu imitation 
of marble and other variegated Stone. 
To make Hamdhi's cement. 

This cement consists in a mixture of earths and 
other substances that are insoluble in water, or 
nearly so, either in their natural state, or such as 
have been manufactured, as earthen-ware, porce- 
lain, and such like substances; but Mr H. pi-efers 
those earths that, either in their natural or manu- 
factured state are the least soluble in water, and 
have, when pulverized or reduced to powder, the 
least colour. To the earth or earths, as before 
named, either in tlieir natural or manufactured 
state, and so pulverized, he adds a quantity of each 
of the oxyds of lead, as litharge, grey oxyd, and 
minium, reduced or ground to a fine powder, and 
to the whole of the above-named substances, a quan- 
tity of pulverized glass or flint-stone. These vari- 
ous eartlis, oxyds, and glass or flint-stone, reduced 
to a pulverized state, in proper and due proportion, 
and being mixed witij a proper and due proportion 
of vegetable oil, form and make a composition or 
cement, which, by contact or exposure to the at- 
mosphere, hardens and forms'an impenetrable and 
impervious coating or covering, resembling Port- 
land or other stones. 

To any given weight of the earth or eartlis, 
commonly called pit-sand, river-sand, rock-sand, 
or any other sand of the same or tlie like nature, 
or pulverized earthen- ware or porcelain, add two 
thirds of such given weight of the earth or earths, 
commonly called Portland-stone, Bath-stone, or 
any other stone, of the same or the like nature, 
pulverized. ■• To every five hundred and sixty 
])ounds weight of these earths, so prepared, add 
forty pounds weight of litharge, and, with the last 
mentioned given weights, combine two pounds 
■weight of pulverized glass or flint-stone. Then 
join to this mixture one pound weight of minium 
and two pounds weight of grey oxyd of lea(h 

Tliis composition being thus mixed, pass the 
same through a wire sieve, or dressing rcaciiine, 
of sucli a fineness or masli as may be requisite for 
the purpose it is intended for, preferring a fine 
sieve, mash, or wire-work, when fne composition 
is to be used for works that require a fine smooth 
or even surface. It is now a fine and dry powder, 
and may be kept open in bulk or in casks for any 
length of lime, without deterioration. 

When this composition is intended to be made 
into cement, for any of the purposes described, it 
is spread upon a board or platform, or mixed in a 
trough: and to every six hundred and five pounds 
■weight of the composition, are added five gallons 
of vegetable oil, as linseed-oil, walnut-oil, or pink- 
oil. . The composition is then mixed in a similar 
way to that of mortar, and is afterwai-ds subjected 



to a gentle pressure, by treading upon it: and this 
operation is continued until it acquires the appear- 
ance of moistened sand. The mixture, being thus 
composed, is a cement fit and applicable to the 
enumerated purposes. It is recjuisite to observe, 
that this cement should be used tlie same day the 
oil is added, otherwiseit will fix or set into a solid 
substance. 

To apply it to buildings. 

When the cemtnt is applied for the purpose of 
covering buildings intended to resemble stone, the 
surface of the building is washed with oil. The 
cement is then applied of the thickness of an inch, 
or any greater thickness, according to the nature 
of the work, joint, or stone, it is intended to re- 
semble. It is requisite to observe, that when a 
joint, intended to resemble a plain stone joint, is 
to be made upon the surface of the cement or com- 
position, the cement must be partly set or harden- 
ed previously to the impression of the joint upon 
its surface, and the joint is made by a rule and 
steel jointer. When tlie cement is used for the 
covering of substances less absorbent than bricks 
or tiles, (as wood, lead, iron, or tin,) a much less 
quantity of boiled linseed oil in preparing the sur- 
faces is required. 

To make cement for Jloors. 

Earthen-floors are commonly made of loam, and 
sometimes, especially to make malt on, of lime 
and brook sand, and gun dust or anvil dust from 
the forge. The manner of making earthen-floors 
for plain country liabiUitions is as follows; take 
two-thirds of lime, and one of coal-ashes well 
sifted, with a small quantity of loam clay, mix the 
whole together, and temper it well with water, 
making it up into a heap; let it lie a week or ten 
days, and then temper it over again. After this, 
heap it up for three or four days, and repeat the 
tempering veiy high, till it becomes smooth, 
yielding, tough, and gluey. The ground being 
then levelled, lay the floor therewith about 2 1-2 
or three inches thick, making it smooth with a 
trowel: the hotter the season is, the better; and 
when it is thoroughly dried, it will make the best 
floor for houses, especially malt-houses. If any 
one would have their floors look better, let them 
take lime of rag-stones, well tempered with whites 
of eggs, covering the floor about half an inch thick 
with it, before the under flooring is too dry. If 
this be well done, and thoroughly dried, it will 
look, when rubbed with a little oil, as transparent 
as Hietal or glass. In elegant houses, floors of this 
nature are made of stiici;o, or of plaster of Paris 
beaten and sifted, and mixed with other ingredients. 
Pew''s composition for covering buildings. 

Take the hardest and purest limestone (white 
marble is to be preferred) free from sand clay, or 
other matter; calcine it in a reverberatory furnace, 
pulverize and pass it through a sieve. One part, 
by weight, is to be mixed with two parts of clay 
well baked and similarly pulverized, conducting 
the wliole operation with great care. This forms 
the first powder. The second is to be made of one 
part of calcined and pulverized gypsum, to which 
is added two parts ot clay, baked and pulverized. 
These two powders are to be combined, and inti- 
matelj' incorporated, so as to form a perfect mix- 
ture. When it is to be used, mix it with about a 
fourth part of its weight of water, added gradually, 
stirring the mass well the whole time, until it 
forms a thick paste, in which state it is to he 
spread like mortar upon the desired surface. It 
becomes in time as hard as stone, allows no mois- 
ture to penetrate, and is not cracked by heat. 
VVlien well prepared it will last any length of time. 
When in its plastic or soft state, it may be colour- 
ed of any desired tint. 



CEMENTS. 



103 



Fo make cement for canals. 
Take one part of iron filings, reduced to sifted 
powder, three parts of silica, four parts of alumine 
combined with oxide of iron — the same quantity of 
pulverized brick, and two parts of hot lime; the 
■whole measured by weight and not by bulk. 

Put the mixture into a large wooden tub, in or- 
der that nothing foreign may be introduced into it. 
If sufficient water is poured out to extinguish the 
lime and give a degree of liquidness to the cement, 
and if all the component parts are briskly stirred, 
a great degree of heat will be emitted from the 
lime, and an intimate union formed by the heat. 
JVote on preparing hydraulic cements. 
It has been satisfactorily ascertained that " the 
access of air during the calcination of the argilla- 
ceous cements, is of great consequence to tlie te- 
nacity of the mortar and the quickness with which 
it hardens." The clay for the best hydraulic ce- 
rnent, shoidd contain a little lime, be calcined un- 
der exposure to a current of air, and after being 
well pulverized, be mixed with a paste of lime in 
the proportion of one of the latter to two or two 
and a half of the former. 

To make Parker''s cement. 
This cement is made of very argillaceous lime- 
stones, which are burnt in conical kilns, with a 
continued fire of pit-coal, in the same manner as 
other limestones; but if the heat be so great as to | 
cause a commencement of fusion in the cement, it 
■will be totally spoiled. It is reduced to an impal- 
pable powder bj- grinding as soon as it is burnt, 
and is sent away in barrels well closed. 

The above is much used in London for facing 
Iiouses, and for the foundation of large edifices. It 
requires much practice in the workmen who use 
it; for if not tempered to the proper consistence, 
and immediately applied, it solidifies unequally, 
cracks, and adheres badly. It is recommended to 
be mixed with fine angular sand well washed, in 
the proportion of two parts to three of cement, for 
foundations and cornices exposed to rain; from 3, 
4, and 5 parts to 3 of cement for common mortars: 
from three parts to two of cement for coating walls 
exposed to cold, and five parts to two of cement 
for walls exposed to dryness or heat. 

Cement for rock-ivork and reservoirs. 
Where a great quantity of cement is wanted for 
coarser uses, the coal-ash mortar (or WeJsh tarras) 
is the cheapest and best, and will hold extremely 
•well, not only where it is constantly kept wet or 
dry, but even where it is sometimes dry and at 
others wetj but where it is liable to be exposed to 
wet and frost, this cement should, at its being laid 
on, be suffered to dry tliorougiily before any mois- 
ture has access to it; and, in that case, it will like- 
wise be a great improvement to temper it with the 
blood of any beast. 

The mortar must be formed of one part lime 
and two parts of well-sifted coal-ashes, and they 
roust be thoroughly mixed by being beaten to- 
gether; for on the perfect commixture of the in- 
gredients the goodness of the composition depends. 
To make mortar. 
Mortar is composed of quick-lime and sand, re- 
duced to a paste with water. The lime ought to 
be pure, completely free from carbonic acid, and 
in the state of a very fine powder; the sand should 
be free from clay, partly in the state of fine sand, 
and partly in that of gravel: the water should be 
pure; and if previously saturated with lime, so 
rouch the better. The best proportions are three 
parts of fine, and four parts of coarse sand, one 
part of quick-lime, recently slacked, and as little 
■water as possible. 

The addition of burnt bones improve mortar by 
giving it tenacity, and render it less apt to ci-ack 



in diyinej; but they ought never to exceed one- 
fourth of the lime employed. 

When a little manganese is added to mortar, it 
acquires the important property of hardening un- 
der water; so that it may be employed in con- 
structing those edifices which are constantly ex- 
posed to the action of water. Limestone is oftea 
combined with manganese: in that case it becomes 
brown by calcination. 

Tunisian cement. 
This is composed of three parts of lime, one of 
sand, and two of wood-ashes: these ingredients are 
mixed up with oil and w.iter alternately, till they 
compose a paste of the desired consistency, 
Dutch terras. 
This is composed of basalt ground to a fine pow- 
der, and blue argillaceous lime, mixed up with wa- 
ter, and M'ell beaten together. 

Tournay cement 
Is a mixture of coal ashes, with blue argillo-fer- 
ruglnous lime and sand, well beaten up with wa- 
ter, left t(\ dry, repeatedly levigated, moistened, 
and beaten. 

Roman cement. 
A sort of plaster so called, which well withstand* 
our soft climate, is made by mixing a bushel of 
lime slaked, with three pounds and a half of green 
copperas, 15 gallons of water, and half a bushel of 
fine gravel sand. The copperas should be dis- 
solved in hot water; it must be stirred with a stick, 
and kept stirring continually while in use. Care 
should be taken to mix at once as much as may be 
requisite for one entire front, as it is very difficult 
to match the colour again; and it ought to be mix- 
ed the same day it is used. 

Geriuine Roman cement. 
This consists of the ptdvis Pateolanns, or puz- 
zolaie, a ferruginous clay from Puteoli calcined 
by the fires of Vesuvius, lime, and sand, mixed up 
with soft water. The only preparation which the 
puzzolene undergoes is that of pounding and sift- 
ing; but the ingredients are occasionally mixed up • 
with bullock's blood, and fat of animals, to give 
the composition more tenacity, 

,. JMaltha, or Greek mastich. 
This is a more simple composition than the ce- 
ment of the Romans, when used for stucco on the 
outsides of fabrics, consisting only of lime and 
sand, but rendered into a paste with milk, or size. 
Indian cement. 
This is on]y a variation of the mastich, and is 
composed of equal quantities of flint, lime, and 
pit sand, slaked with water, well beaten, and suf- 
fered to remain for three or four days, tlien moist- 
ened and mixed up with oil, mucilage, whites of 
eggs, and butter milk, and applied, as rapidly as 
possible, after being mixed. 

, To make impenetrable mortar. 
Mix thoroughly one-fourth of the fresh unslak- 
ed lime with three-fourths of sand; and let five la- 
bourers make mortar of these ingredients, by pour- 
ing on water, with trowels, to supply one mason, 
who must, when the materials are sufficiently mix- 
ed, apply it instantly as cement or plaster, and it 
will become as hard as stone. The lime used 
should be stone-lime; previous to its use, it should 
be preserved from the access of air or wet, and the 
plaster screened for some time from the sun and 
wind. 

To make Wych's stucco. 
Take four or five bushels of such plaster as is 
commonly burnt for floors about Nottingham (or 
a similar quantity of any tarras, plaster, or calcm- 
ed gypsum); beat it to fine powder, then sift and 
put it into a trough, and mix with it one bushel of 
pure coal ashes, well calcined. Four on the wa- 
ter, till the whole becomes good mortar. Lay this 



104 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



in wooJen frames of twelve feet in length on the f 
walls, well smoothed with common mortar and 
dry, the thickness of two inches, at each side, and 
three inches in the middle. When the frame is 
moved to proceed with the work, leave an interval 
of two inches for this coping to extend itself, so as 
to meet the last frame work. 

To make Williams''s stucco. 
Take sharp, rough, large-grained sand, sifted, 
•washed, dried, and freed from all impurities, 84 
pounds; well hurnt lime, slaked and finely sifted, 
12 pounds; curd, or cheese, produced from milk, 
4 pounds; (the first, fresh made, and strongly 
pressed, to divest it of its whey; the second, whilst 
perfectly sound, rasped into powder with a grater, 
or brougiit into a very light substance with scra- 

{)ers, or fine-toothed plane-irons, in a turner's 
athe); and lastly, water in its natural state, 10 
pounds. If the sand is not thoroughly dried, or 
the lime has got damp from the air, the quantity 
of water must be less than the above proportion; 
and, on the contrary, when the lime is used im- 
mediately, it may require more; so that tlie pro- 
*per stiffness of the mortar, under those circum- 
stances, will regulate the making of the compo- 
sition. 

Iron cement. 

This is formed of the borings of cast iron guns 
or turnings of cast iron which should be clean and 
free from rust until used. By slight pounding or 
triturating they are broken but not powdwed, and 
tiien coarsely sifted. At the time of using, they 
are to be mixed witli powdered sal ammoniac and 
sulphur, and slightly moistened with water; when 
the composition must be rammed or caulked into 
the joints with a blunt caulking chisel and ham- 
mer, and the joint screwed up by its bolts as 
tightly as possible. 

No more of this cement must be made than can 
be used at one time, because it soon spoils; but if 
good, it will become as hard as the iron itself in a 
, few days: 2 ounces of sal ammoniac, and 1 ounce 
of sulphur is sufficient for 5 pounds of iron borings. 
Water cement. 

A cement may be made with common lime, that 
•will harden under loater. What is called poor 
lime has this peculiar property; but as this species 
of limestone rarely occurs, it is often an expensive 
article. The following is a good- substitute, and 
may be used for water cisterns, aqueducts, kc. 
Mix four parts of grey clay, six of the black oxide 
of manganese, and ninety of good limestone re- 
duced to fine powder; then calcine the whole to 
expel the carbonic acid. When this mixture has 
been well calcined and cooled, it is to be worked 
into the consistence of a soft paste with sixty parts 
of washed sand. If a lump of this cement be 
thrown into water, it will harden immediately. 
Such mortar, however, may be procured at a still 
less expense, by mixing with common quick lime 
a certain quantity of what are called the xvldte iron 
ores, especially such as are poor in iron. These 
ores are chiefly composed ot manganese and car- 
bonate of lime, or cbalk. Common lime and sand 
only, whatever may be the proportion of the mix- 
ture, will certainly become soft under water. 
Water cement or stiicco. 

Take 56 pounds of pure coarse sand, 42 pounds 
of pure fine sand; mix them together, and moisten 
them thoroughly with lime water; to the wetted 
Sand, add 14 pounds of pure fresh burnt lime, and 
while beating them up together, add, in successh-e 
portions, 14 pounds of bone ash: the quicker and 
more perfectly these materials are beaten together, 
and the sooner they are used the better will be the 
cement; for some kinds of work it will be belter 
to use fine sand alone, and for others, coarse sand; 



remembering the finer the sand Is, the greater 
quantity of lime is to be employed. 

To make afire and water proof cement. 

To half a pint of vinegar, add the same quantity 
of milk; separate the curd, and mix the whey with 
the whites of five eggs; beat it well together, and 
sift into it a sufficient quantity of quick lime, to 
convert it to the consistency of a thick paste. Bro- 
ken vessels, mended with this cement, never after- 
wards separate, for it resists the action of both fire 
and water. 

Turkish cement for joining metah, gJasa, &c. 

Dissolve mastich in as much spirit of wine as 
will suffice to render it liquid; in another vessel 
dissolve as much isinglass (which has been pre- 
viously soaked in water till it is swollen and soft) 
in brandy as will make two ounces by measure oi 
strong glue, and add two small bits of gum galba- 
num, or ammoniacum, which must be rubbed or 
ground till they are dissolved; then mix the whole 
with a sufficient heat: keep it in a phial stopt, ami 
when it is to be used set it in hot water. 
Yates's ivater proof cement. 

Take of the best glue four ounces, of ismglass 
two ounces, and dissolve them in mild ale over a 
slow fire, in a common glue kettle, to the consis- 
tence of strong glue, when one ounce and a half of 
well boiled linseed oil m'lst be gradually added, 
and the whole be well mixed by stirring. When 
cold and made into cakes, it resembles Indian rub- 
ber. When wanted for use dissolve a piece of it 
in a proportionate quantity of ale. This cement 
is applicable to all joints of wood, to join earlheiv- 
ware, china, glass. It is an excellent cement for 
leather, for harness, bands for machinery, &c. 
The joints of these are to be prepared as it'for sew- 
ing, the cement to be applied hot, laying a weight 
upon each joint as it is made, in which state it is 
to be left six hours, when the joints will be found 
nearly as firm as if they were of an entire piece. 
By adding a little tow to the above, you have an 
excellent cement for leaks in casks, kc. kc. 
Common cement for Joining alabaster, marble, por- 
phijry, and other stones. 

Take of bees' wax, 2 pounds, and of resin, 1 
pound. Melt them, and add 1 pound and a half 
of the same kind of matter, powdered, as the body 
to be cemented is composed of, strewing it into 
the melted mixture, and stirring them well toge- 
thor, and afterwards kneading the mass in water, 
tiiat the powder may be thoroughly incorporated 
with the wax and resin. The proportion of the 
powdered matter may be varied, wliere required, 
in order to bring the cement nearer to the colour 
of the body on which it is employed. 

This cement must be heated when applied, as 
also the parts of the subject to be cemented. toge- 
ther, an(l care must be taken, likewise, that tliey 
may be thorougldy dry. 

To make lutes. 

These aroused for securing the juncture of ves- 
sels,' in distillations and sublimations. For the 
distillation of water, linen dipped in a thin paste 
of flour and water is sufficient. A lute of greater 
security is composed of quick-lime, made into a 
paste with the whites of eggs. For the^ecurity of 
very corrosive vapours, clay finely powdered and 
sifted, made into a paste with boiled linseed oil, 
must be applied to the juncture; which must be 
afterwards covered with slips of linen, dipped in 
the paste of quick-lime, and the whites of eggs. 
The lute must be perfectly dried before the vessels 
are used, or else the heat may cause it to dry too 
quick, and thereby cause the lute to crack. If this 
be the case, it is repaired by applying fresh lute in 
tlie cracks, and suftiiring it to dry gradually. Vessels 
which are to be exposed to the naked fire,' are 



CEMENTS. 



105 



R'equently coated to resist the effects of the heat, 
tne best coating for wliich purpose consists in dis- 
solving 2 ounces of borax in a pint of boiling water, 
and adding to the solution as much slaked lime as 
is necessary to form a thin paste. The vessel must 
be covered all over with it by means of a painter's 
brush, and then suffered to diy. It must then be 
covered with a thin paste of linseed oil and slaked 
lime, except the neck. In two or tliree days it 
vill diy of itself, and the retort will then bear the 
greatest fire without cracking. The cracks of che- 
mical vessels may he secured by the second lute. 
Cement for iron cidmary utensils. 

To 6 parts of yellow potter's clay, add 1 part of 
Bteel filings, and a sufficient quantity of oil. Make 
the paste of the consistence of glazier's putty. 
'J'o tnake turner's cement. 

The following is aver}' excellent cement for the 
use of turners and artizaus in general: 16 parts of 
whiting are to be finely powdered and heated to 
redness, to drive off all the water. When cold, it 
is to be mixed with 16 parts of black resin, and 1 
part of bees'- wax, the latter having been previously 
melted together, and the whole stirred till of an 
uniform consistence. 

Cement for Joining broken glasses, &c. 

Take two ounces of good glue, and steep it for a 
night in distilled vinegary boil them together the 
next day, and having broken a clove of garlic with 
half an ounce of ox-gall, into a soft pulp, strain the 
juice through a linen cloth, using pressure, and 
add to it the glue and vinegar. Then take of san- 
darac powdered, and turpentine, each one draclim, 
and of sarcocol and mastic powdered, each half a 
drachm; put them into a bottle with an ounce of 
highly rectified spirit of wine. Stop the bottle, 
and let the mixture stand for three hours in a g£n- 
tle heat, frequently shaking it. Mix this tincture 
also with the glue while hot, and stir them well to- 
gether with a slick, till part of tlie mixture be eva- 
porated, and then take the composition from the 
fire, and it will be fit for use. When this cement 
is to he applied it must he dipped in vinegar, and 
then melted in a proper vessel, with a gentle heat; 
and if stones are to be cemented, mix with it a 
little powdered chalk, or if glass is to be conjoin- 
ed, powdered glass should be substituted. 
A strong cement for electrical purposes. 

Melt one pound of resin in a pot or pan, over a 
slow fire; add thereto as much plaister of Paris, in 
fine powder, as will make it hard enough; then add 
a spoonful of linseed oil, stirring it all the while, 
and try if it be hard and tough enough for the pur- 
pose; if it is not sufficiently hard, add more plaster 
of Paris; and if not tough enough, a little more 
linseed oil. This is as good a cement as possible 
for fixing the necks of globes or cylinders, or any 
thing else that requires to be strongly fixed; for it 
is not easily melted again when cold. 

A cement Jor glass-grinders. 

Take pitch and boil it; add thereto, and keep 
fitiiTing it all the while, fine sifted wood ashes, 
until it is of a proper temper: a little tallow may 
be added, as found necessary. For small works, to 
four ounces of resin add one-fourth of an ounce of 
bees'-wax melted together; and four ounces of 
•whitening, made previously red hot. The whiten- 
ing should be put in while hot, that it may not 
have time to imbibe moisture from the atmosphere. 
Another. — Shell-lac is a veiy strong cement for 
holding metals, glass, or precious stones, while 
cutting, turning, or grinding them. The metal, 
&c. should be warmed, to melt it. For fastening 
i-uby cylinders iu watches, and similar delicate 
p\ii'poses, shell-lac is excellent. 

7 'o sold(jr or cement broken glass, 

Breken glass may be soldered or cemented in 
() 



such a manner as to he as strong as ever, by inter- 
posing between the parts glass ground up like a 
pigment, hut of easier fusion than the pieces to be 
joined, and then exposing them to such a heat as 
will fuse the cementing ingredient, and make the 
pieces agglutinate without "being themselves fused. 
A glass for the purpose of cementing broken pieces 
of llint glass, may be made by fusing some of the 
same kind of glass previously reduced to powder, 
along with a little red lead and borax, or with Uie 
borax only. 

Cement for Derbt/sJiire spar and other stones. 

A cement for this purpose may be made with 
about seven or eight parts of resin and one of bees'- 
wax, melted together with a small quantity of plas- 
ter of Paris. If it is wished to make the cement 
fill up the place of any small chips that may have 
been lost, the quantity of plaster must be increased 
a little. When the ingredients are well mixed, 
and the whole is nearly cold, the mass should be 
well kneaded together. The pieces of spar that 
are to be joined, must be heated until they wiil 
melt the cement, and then pressed togetlier, some 
of the cement being previously interposed. Melted 
sulphur applied to fragments of stones previously 
heated (by placing them before a fire) to at least 
the melting point of sulphur, and then joined with 
the sulphur between, makes a pretty firm and du- 
rable joining. Little deficiencies in the stone, as 
chips out of corners, &c. may be also filled up willi 
melted sulphur, in which some of the powder of 
the stone has been melted. 

A cement that xuill stand against boiling -water and 
the pressure of steam. 

Boiled linseed oil, litharge, and red and white 
lead, mixed together to a proper consistence, and 
applied on each side of apiece of flannel previous- 
ly shaped to fit the joint, and then interposed be- 
tween the pieces before they are brought home (as 
the workmen term it) to their places by the screws 
or other fastenings employed, makes a close and 
durable joint. The quantities of the ingredients 
may be varied without inconvenience, only taking 
care not to make the mass too thin with oil. It is 
difficult in many cases instantly to make a good 
fitting of large pieces of iron-work, which renders 
it necessary sometimes to join and separate the 
pieces repeatedly, before a proper adjustment is 
obtained. When this is expected, the white lead 
ought to predominate in the mixture, as it dries 
much slower than the red. 

This cement answers well also Jbr joining bro- 
ken stones, however large. Cisternsbuilt of square 
stones put together with this cement, will never 
leak, or want any repairs. In this case the stones 
need not be entirely bedded in it: an inch, or even 
less, of the edges that are to lie next the water, 
need only be so treated; the rest of the joint may 
be filled with good lime. 

Cement for steam-engines. 

Take two ounces of sal annnoniac, one ounce of 
flowers of sulphur, and sixteen ounces of casl-iroa 
filings or borings, mix all well together by rubbing 
them in a mortar, and keep the powder dry. 

When wanted for use, take one part of tlie above 
powder and twenty parts of clean iron borings op 
tilings, and mix tliem intimately by grinding them 
in a mortar. Wet the compound with water, and 
when brought to a convenient consistence, apply it 
to the joints with a wooden or blunt iron spatula. 
Another cement for similar purposes. 

Take two parts of flowers of sulphur and one 
part of sal ammoniac, and mix them together with 
a little water into a stift' paste. 

Take also borings or turnings of cast-iron as 
they are found in manufactories, viz. mixed with 
sand, and sift tliem finely to get rid of the grobsec 



106 



UNI\'ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



particles. "When the cement is wanted for use 
dissolve a portion of the above paste in urine, or 
slightly acidulated water, and to the solution add 
a quantity oFthe sifted borings, and apply as above, 
and in a short time it will become as hard as stone. 
Blood cement for coppersmiths. 

A cement often usedljy coppersmiths to lay over 
the rivets and edges of the sheets of copper in large 
boilers, to serve as an additional security to the 
joinings, and to secure cocks, 8cc. from leaking, 
is made by mixing pounded quick-lime with ox's 
blood. It must be applied fresh made, as it soon 
gets hard. If the properties of this cement were 
duly investigated, it would probably be found use- 
ful for many purposes to which it has never yet 
been applied. It is extremely cheap, and very du- 
rable. 

Entomologist'' s cement. 

To a solution of gum ammoniac in pi'oof spirit, 
<»dd tlie test isinglass, and unite them with a gen- 
tle he.it. The great value of this cement consists 
In the readiness with which it melts, and the little 
tendency it has to be affected by moisture. It is 



generally employed by entomologists in rejoining 
the dislocated parts of insects, for which it is very 
convenient. 

Microscope cement. 

Put into a bottle two i)arts of isinglass and one 
part of the best gum arable, cover ihem with proof 
spirit, cork the bottle loosely, and place it in a ves- 
sel of water, and boil it till a thorough solution is 
effected, when it must be strained for use. This 
is a highly valuable cement, for many purposes, 
and is used for mounting opaque objects for the 
microscope. 

Japanese cement, or rice glue. 

This elegant cement is made by mixing rice- 
flour intimately with cold water, and then gently 
boiling it: it is beautifully while, and dries almost 
transparent. Papers pasted together by means of 
this cement will sooner separate in their own sub- 
stance tlian at the joining, which makes it use- 
ful in the preparation of curious paper ai-ticles, as 
tea-trays, ladies' dressing boxes, and other articles 
that require layers of paper to be cemented toge- 
ther. 



BREWING. 



To fit up a small brewhottse. 

Provide a copper holding full two-thirds of the 
quantit}' proposed to be brewed, with a guage stick 
to determine the number of gallons in the copper. 
A mash tub, or tun, adapted to contain two-thirds 
of the quantity proposed to be brewed, and one or 
two tuns of equal size to ferment the wort. Three 
or four shallow coolers; one or two wooden bowls; 
a thermometer; half a dozen casks of different 
sizes; a large funnel; two or three clean pails, and 
a hand pump; the whole costing from ten to twen- 
ty poimds. 

This proceeds on the supposition of two mashes 
for ale; but if only one mash is adapted for ale, 
with a view of making the t.ible beer better, then 
the copper and mash tun should hold one-third 
raore than the quantity to be brewed. 

The expenses of brewing depend on the price of 
malt and hops, and on the proposed strength of the 
article. One quarter of good malt, and eight pounds 
of good hops, ought to make two barrels of good 
ale and one of table beer. The other expenses con- 
sist of coals and labour. 

Of public breweries, and their extensive utensils 
and machinery, we affect to give no description, 
because books are not likely to be resorted to by 
the class of persons engaged in those extensive ma- 
nufactories for information relative to their own 
particular business. 

To choose water for bretinng. 

Soft water, or hard water softened by exposure 
to the air, is generally preferred, because it makes 
a stronger extract, and is more inclined to ferment; 
out hard water is better for keeping beer, and is 
less liable to turn sour. Some persons soften hard 
•water by throwing a spoonful of soda into a barrel, 
and others do it with a handful of commou salt 
mixed with an ounce of salt of tartar. 
To make malt. 

Put about 6 quarters of good barley, newly thresh- 
ed, &c. into a stone trough full of water, and let it 



steep till the water be of a bright reddish colour, 
which will be in about three days, more or less, ac- 
cording to the moisture or dryness, smallness or 
bigness of the grain, the season of the year, or the 
temperature of the weather. In summer malt never 
makes well; in winter it requires longer steeping 
than in spring or autumn. It may be known when 
steeped enough, by other marks besides the colour 
of the water; as by the excessive swelling of the 
grain, if it be oversteeped, and by too much soft- 
ness, being, when it is in a right temper, like tlie 
barley prepared to make broth. - When sufficiently 
steeped, take it out of the trough, and lay it in heaps 
to let the water drain from it, then, after two or 
three hours, turn it over with a scoop, and lay it in 
a new heap, 20 or 24 inches deep. This is called 
the coming heap, in the right management of which 
lies the principal skill. In this heap it may lie 40 
hours more or less, according to the forementioned 
qualities of the grain, &c. before it comes to the 
right temper of malt. While it lies, it must be 
carefully looked to after the first 15 or 15 hours; 
for about that time the grains begin to put forth 
roots; which, when they have equally and fully 
done, the malt must, within an hour after, be turn- 
ed over with a scoop; otherwise the grains will be- 
gin to put forth the blade and spire also, which 
must by all means be prevented. If all the malt 
do not come equally, but that which lies in the 
middle, being warmest, come the soonest, the whole 
must be turned, so that what was outmost may be 
inmost; and thus it is managed till it be all alike. 
As soon as the malt is sufficiently come, turn it 
over, and spread it to a depth not exceeding 5 or 6 
inches; and by the time it is all spread out, begin 
and turn it over again 3 or 4 times. Afterwai-da 
turn it over in like manner once in 4 or 5 
hours, making the heap deeper by degrees; and 
continue to do so for the space of 48 hours at least. 
This cools, dries, and deadens the gjain, so that 
it becomes mellow, melts easily iu brewing, and 



BREWING. 



107 



separates entirely from the husk. Then throw up 
the malt into a heap as high as possible, where let 
it lie till it grow as hot as the hand can'bear it, 
•which usually happens in about the space of 30 
Lours. This perfects the sweetness and mellowness 
of the malt. After being sufficiently heated, throw 
it abroad to cool, and turn it over again about 6 or 
8 hours after; and then lay it on a kiln with a hair 
cloth or wire spread under it. After one fire which 
must last 24 hours, give it another more slow, and 
afterwards, if need be, a third; for if the malt be 
not thoroughly dried, it cannot be well ground, nei- 
ther will it dissolve well in the brewing; but the ale 
it makes will be red, bitter, and unfit for keeping. 
To grind malt. 
To obtain the infusion of malt, it is necessary to 
break it, for which purpose it is passed through 
stones placed at such distance, as that they may 
crush each grain without reducing it to powder; 
ftr if ground too small, it makes the worts thick, 
vhile if not broken at all, the extract is not ob- 
tained. In general, pale malts are ground larger 
than amber, or brown malts. 

Malt should be used within 2 or 3 days after it 
is ground, but ini the London brew-houses, it is 
generally ground one day and used the next. A 
quarter of malt ground should yield 9 bushels, and 
sometimes 10. Crushing mills, or iron rollers, 
have lately been used in preference to stones which 
makes considerable grit with the malt. On a small 
scale,, malt may be broken by wooden rollers, by 
the hands. 

Steel mills like coffee mills have also been used 
for crushing malt with great success. 

To determine the qualities of mnlt. 
First, examine well if it has a round body, 
breaks soft, is full of flour all its length, smells 
•well, and has a thin skin; next chew some of it, 
and if fweet and mellow, then it is good. If it is 
hard and steely, and retains something of a barley 
nature, it has not been rightly made, and will 
weigh heavier than that which has been properly 
malted. 

Secondly, take a glass neai-ly full of water; put 
in some malt, and if it swims, it is good, but if 
any sinks to the bottom then it is not true malt. 

Pale malt is the slowest and least dried, produc- 
ing more wort than high dried malt, and of better 
quality. — Amber coloured malt, or that between 
pale and brown, produces a flavour much admired 
m many malt liquors. Brown malt loses much of 
its nutritious qualities, but confers a peculiar fla- 
vour desired by many palates. Roasted malt, after 
the manner of cottee, is used by the best London 
brewers, to give colour and flavour to porter, 
■which in the first instance has been made from 
pale malt. The most deHcately roasted malt for 
this purpose is made by Mr Hunt, the proprietor 
of the well known breakfast powder. He ex- 
eludes the atmospheric air, and all eifluviie from 
the fire, by an apjiaratas of his own invention, and 
hence the perfection of his breakfast powder, and 
consequently of his roasted malt. 
To choose hops. 
Rub them between the fingers or the palm of 
the hand, and if good, a rich glutinous substance 
"vill be felt, with a fragrant smell, and a fine yel- 
'ow dust will appear. The best colour is a fine 
dive green, but if too green, and the seeds are 
small and shrivelled, they have been picked too 
soon and will be deficient in flavour. If of a dusty 
brown colour, they were picked too late, and 
should not be chosen. When a year old, they are 
considered as losing one-fourth in strength. The 
best and dearest is the Farnham hop; East Kents 
ai'e the next, but those of Sussex and Worcester- 
ehii-c are not so strong 



To determine the proportion between the liquor 
- boiled and the quantity produced. 

From a single quarter, two barrels of liquor 
will produce but one barrel of wort. Three bar- 
rels will produce one barrel three quarters. Four 
barrels will produce two barrels and a half. Five 
barrels will produce three barrels and a quarter. 
Six barrels will produce four barrels. Eight bar- 
rels will produce five barrels and a half, and ten 
barrels will produce seven barrels, and so in pro- 
portion for other quantities. 
To determine the heats of the liquor or •water far 

the first and second mashes on different kinds 

of malt. 

First mash, — For very pale malt turn on the li- 
quor at 176". For pale and amber mixed, 172°, 
all amber, 170°, high-coloured amber, 168°. An 
equal quantity of pale, amber, and brown, 160°, 
If the (juantity of brown is very dark, or any part 
of tlie grains charred by the fire upon the kiln, 
155°. 

Secotid mash. — For very pale malt turn on the 
liquor at 182°. For pale and amber mixed, 178°, 
all amber, 170°, high coloured amber, 172°. An 
equal quantity of pale, amber, and brown, 166°. 
If the quantity of brown is veiy dark, or any part 
of the grains charred by the fire, 164°. 

The heat should in some measure be regulated 
by the temperature of the atmosphere, and should 
be two or three degrees higher in cold than in 
warm weather. 

The proper degree of heat will give the strong- 
est wort and in the greatest quantity, for though 
the he.it were greater and the strength of the wort 
thereby increased, yet a greater quantity of liquor 
Avould be retained in the malt; and again, if it 
were lower, it would produce more wort, but the 
strength of the extract would be deficient; tlie beer 
without spirit, and likely to turn sour. 

To mash without a thermometer. 

As diminished evaporation takes place on the 
surface of water just before it boils, many practical 
private brewers turn on, as soon as the diminished 
evaporation enables them to see their faces on the 
smooth surface of the water, when it is probably 
at about the heat actually used by public brewers, 
whoadojit thermometers. 

Others use boiling liquqr throughout, but lower 
the temperature, by gradual applications to the 
malt: thus, they turn a few pailsful of tlie boiling 
liquor into the mash tub, which being tlms some- 
what cooled, a quantity of the malt is turned in 
and saturated with the water; the mass being then 
considerably lower than the boiling heat, they 
turn without reserve boiling water upon it, which 
being somewhat cooled by the mass, more malt is 
turned in, and so alternately till the whole is 
mixed, which they continue to mash for an hour. 
To determine t/ie strength of the xvorts. 

To eftect tjiis a saccharometer is necessary, and 
may be purchased at any mathematical instrument 
maker's. It determines the relative gravity of 
wort to the water used, and the quantity of farina- 
ceous matter contained in the wort. It is used in 
all public breweries after drawing oft' the wort 
from each mash, and regulates the heat and quan- 
tity of liquor turned on at each succeeding mash, 
that the ultimate strength may be equal though die 
quantity is less. This signifies little to the private, 
but it is of great consequence to the public brewer. 
Those who brew frequently and desire to intro- 
duce it will obtain printed tables and instructions 
with the instrument. 

To proportion the hops. 

The usual quantity is a pound to the bushel of 
malt, or eight pounds to the quarter; but for keep- 
ing-beer, it should b« extended to ten, or twelve. 



108 



UXHTRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



and if for one or two years, to fovirteen pounds the 
quarter. Small beer requires from three to six 
pounds the quarter, and rather more when old 
hops are used. 

Some persons instead of boiling the hops with 
the wort, macerate tliem, and put the strong ex- 
tract into the tun wilh tlie first wort, and make two 
or three extracts in likemanner for the second and 
third worts. 

To boil -worts. 
The first wort should be sharply boiled for one 
hour, and the second for two houis. But if intend- 
ed for beer of long-keeping, the time should be 
extended half an iiour. The hops sliould be strain- 
ed from each jjreceding wort, and returned into the 
copper with the succeeding one. Between the 
boilings the fire should be damped with wet cin- 
ders, and the copper door set open. 

For small beer only half an hour is necessai-y 
for the first wort, 1 hour for the second, and 2 
hi5urs for the third. The diminution from boiling 
is from one-eighth to one-sixteenth. 
To cool the iL'orts. 
Worts should l)e laid so sIihUow as to cool with- 
in six or seven hours to the temperature of sixty 
degrees. In warm weather, tiie depth sliould not 
exceed two or three inches; but in cold weather it 
iriay be five inches. As soon as they have fallen 
to 60 degrees, they should instantly be tunned and 
yeasted. 

To choose heats for tunning. 
In cold weather, the hef.is in the coolers should 
be five or six degrees higher than in mild and 
■warm weather. For ale, in cold weather, it should 
be tunned as soon as it has fallen to sixty degrees 
in the coolers; for porter, to sixty-four degrees; 
and for table beer to seventj'-four; and in warm 
■weather, strong beer should be four or five degrees 
less, and table beer seven or eight degrees. Care 
should be also taken that the worts do not get cold 
before the yeast is mixed to produce fermentation. 
The best rule for mixing the yeast is a pound and a 
half to every barrel of strong beer wort, and a 
pound to every barrel of table beer wort. 
To mix t/ie yeast ivilh the ivorts. 
Ale brewed for keeping in winter should be no 
more than blood warm wlien the yeast is put to it. 
If it is intended for immediate drinking, it may be 
yeasted a little warmer. The best method of 
mixing the yeast is to take two or three quarts of 
the hot water wort in a wooden bowl or pan, to 
which when cool enough, put yeast enough to work 
the brewing: generally one or two quarts to the 
hogshead, according to its quality. In this bowl 
or pan the fermentation will commence while the 
rest of the worts are cooling, when the whole may 
be mixed togetiier. 

To apportion yeast and apply it to the -worts. 
The yeast of strono; beer is preferable to that 
from small beer, and it should be fresh and good. 
The quantity should be diminished with the' tem- 
perature at which the worts are tunned, and less 
in summer than in winter. For strong beer, a 
quart of yeast per quarter will be sufficient at 58 
degrees, but less when the worts are higher, and 
when the weather is hot. If estimated by the 
more accurate criterion of weight, 1^ pounds 
should be used for a barrel of strong beer, and \.\ 
pounds for a barrel of small beer. If the fermen- 
tation does not commence, add a little more yeast, 
and rouse the worts for some time. But if they 
get cold, and the fermentation is slow, fill a bottle 
■with hot water and put it i.nto the tun. 

In cold weather small beer should be tunned at 
70 degrees, keeping beer at 56 degrees, and strong 
beer at 54 i^grees. In mild weath&r at 50 de- 



grees for each sort. The fermentation will ii>' 
crease the heat 10 degrees. 

To manage the fermentation. 
A proportion of the yeast should be added to 
the first wort as soon as it is let down from the 
coolers, and the remainder as soon as the second 
wort is letdown. 

The commencement of fermentation is indicated 
by a line of small bubbles round ti>e sides of the 
tun, which in a short time extends over the sur- 
face. A crusty head follows, and then a fine rocky 
one, followed by a light frothy iiead. In the last 
stage, the head assumes a yeasty appe.irance, and 
the, colour is yellow or brown, the smell of the tun 
becoming strongly vinous. As soon as this head 
begins to fall, the tun should be skimmed, and the 
skimming continued every two hours till no more 
yeast appears; this closes the operation, and it 
should then be put into casks, or, in technical Ian- 
guage, cleansed. A minute attention to every 
stage of this process is necessary to secure fine fla- 
voured, and brilliant beverage. Should the fer- 
mentation be unusually slow, it should be accele- 
rated by stirring or rousing the whole. After the 
first skimming, a small quantity of salt and flour, 
well mixed, should be stirred in the tun. The fer- 
mentation will proceed in the casks, to encourage 
which, the bung-hole sliould be placed a little 
aside, and the casks kept full, by being filled up 
from time to time with old beer.' When this fer- 
mentation has ceased, the casks may be bunged up. 
To accelerate the fermentation. 
Spread some flour with the hand oyer the sur- 
face, and it will form a crust, and keep the worts 
warm; — or throw in an ounce or two of powdered 
ginger; — or, fill a bottle with boiling water, and 
sink it in the worts; — or, heat a small quantity of 
the worts and throw into the rest; — or, beat up the 
whites of two eggs with some brandy, an«J',throw 
it into the tun or cask; — or, tie up some bran in a 
coarse thin cloth and put it into the vat; and above 
all things do not disturb the wort, as fermentation 
will not commence during any agitation of the 
wort. 

To check a too rapid fermentation. 
Mix some cold raw wort in the tun, or divide 
the whole between two tuns, where, by being in 
smaller body, the energy of tiie fermentation of 
the whole will be divided. Also, open the doors 
and windows of the brew-house; — but, if it still 
frets, sprinkle some cold water over it; — or, if it 
frets in tiie cask, put in a mixture of a quarter of a 
pound of sugar, wilh a handful of salt, to the 
hogshead. 

To brent) porter on the London system. 
Thames or New River water is indifterently 
used, or hard water, raised into backs, and exposed 
for a few days to the air. 

Take a mixture of brown, amber and pale malts, 
nearly in equal quantities, and turn them into the 
mash-tub in this order. Turn on ■the first liquor 
at 165 degrees; mash one hour, and then coat the 
whole with dry malt. In one hour set the tap. 

Mix 10 lbs. of brown hops to the quarter of malt, 
half old, half new; boil the first wort briskly with 
the hops, for three quarters of an hour, and after 
putting into the copper l^lbs. of sugar, and l^lbs. 
of Leghorn juice (extract-jjf liquorice), to tiie bar- 
rel, turn the whole into the coolers, rousing the 
wort all the time. 

Turn on the second liquor at 174 degrees, and 
in an hour set tap again. This second wort having 
run oft", turn on again at 145 degrees; mash for an 
hour, and stand for the same; in the mean-time 
boiling the second wort with the same hops for an 
hour. Tui'n tlieae into the coolers as Iri'ore, and 



BREWING. 



109 



Jet down into the tub at 64 degrees, mixing tlie 
yeast as it comes down. Cleanse the second day 
at SO degrees, previously throwing in a mixture of 
flour and salt, and rousing thoroughly. 

For private use, every quarter of malt ought to 
yield two barrels and a half, but "brewers would 
run three barrels to a quarter. 

Another method. — The following article is to be 
considered as applicable when not less than 50 
quarters of malt are used. 

The liquor for the first mash should be heated 
in the copper to 150 degrees, in the proportion of 
two barrels to each quarter of malt, which is to be 
an equal mixture of pale amber and brown malts. 
These are mashed about three quarters of an hour; 
the liquor is then allowed to stand on the goods 
an hour. The top of the masli tun is next opened 
to let off the liquor as quickly as possible; and the 
top is to be left open till the next liquor is brouglit 
into tlie tun, that the goods may drain. During 
tliis, the second liquor has been heating, and mny 
at two hours and tlu-ee (juarters, or three hours 
from the beginning, have acquired the heat of 160 
degrees, the quantity being one barrel to a quarter 
of malt. Mash this half, for three quarters of an 
hour; let it stand one hour, and then let it it be run 
off in the course of half an hour more; at about five 
hours and a half from tlie beginning, the tliird 
mash should be made at 180 degrees; the quantity 
being one barrel to the quarter. Mash tliis half 
aji hour, let it stand one liour, and tap as before. 

A fourth liquor is seldom mashed, but if it is, it 
may be cold or blood warm, as it is of no use but 
to make the sour beer for finings, and it is of little 
consequence how it is done. Some brewers use it 
for tlie first liquor of the next brewing, but tliis is 
not perhaps a good plan, as it often becomes foxed, 
and tlien it taints the whole brewing. These worts 
ai-e to be' boiled with from 12 to 14 pounds of hops to 
tJie quarter of malt, if tlie liquor is intended for 
keeping 8 or 12 months, but in the ordinary run 
ot" porter, not intended for keeping, 5 11)S. may be 
sufficient. Tlie first wort should be boiled one 
Lour, the second two hours, and the tliird four 
hours. 

The worts are now to lie cooled down as expe- 
ditiously as tiie weather will permit, to about 60 
degrees, if the medium heat of the atmospliere is 
about 60 degi-ees; if it is more or less, allowance 
must be made as before directed. All tlie three 
Worts are to lie brought into the square together, 
and about five pints of yeast to the (juarter of malt 
jmt in; the proportion of colouring is arbitrary, as 
It depends upon the colour of the malt. 
To Lve-u) three barrels of porter. 

Take 1 sack of pale malt, ^ a sack of amber do. 
and ^ a sack of brown do. 

Turn on two barrels for first mash at 165 de- 
crees; — second mash, cue barrel and a half at 172 
dcgi-ees; — tliird mash, two barrels, at 142 degrees. 
Boil 10 lbs. of new and old hops, and 2 oz. of por- 
ter exti-act, in the first wort. Cool, ferment, and 
oleanse according to tlie previous insU-uctions. 
To brew porter on jMr Morrice's plan. 

Commence at five o'clock in the morning; ther- 
mometer in the air 34 degrees. Take of West 
country pale malt, 3 quai-ters, Herts pale malt, 6 
quarters, Herts brown malt, 8 quarters, Herts am- 
ner malt, 8 quarters, hops, 1 cwt. 2 quarters, Leg- 
horn juice, 30 lbs. porter extract, 4 lbs. 

Charge the first great copper with 52 barrels, and 
raise to 155 degrees. Mash for one hour, and set 
the tap at 7 o'clock, at 137 degrees. 

Charge copper with 36 bai-rels, and raise to 160 
degrees. Mash, and set tap at 146 degi-ees. Boil 
jsrst wort. 

C^ai-ge copper for third mash with 59 barr3U, 



and raise to 150 degi'ees. Mash a quarter of an 
hour, and set tap at 132 degrees; boil second wort 
an hour and a half. Tun at 64 degrees. Cleanse 
in two days 88 barrels. 

Broxvn stout. 
The procedure is the same as in tlie preceding 
article, except that one third, or one half tlie malt 
should be brown. 

London ale. 

Almost every county in England has its variety 
of ale, but the difterence consists chiefly (the same 
quantity of malt and hops being used) in the pre- 
paration of the malt. Water may, in some cases, 
vary in quality, the boiling may be longer or 
shorter, or the liquor may be turned on at a differ- 
ent heat; but these varieties being considered, one 
general process serves for the whole. For good 
ale, the malt and hops should be of the best quali- 
ty. For immediate use, tlie malt should be all 
pale; but if brewed for keeping, or in warm wea- 
ther, one fourth should be amber malt. Six pounds 
of Kentish liops should be used to the quartei", of 
10 lbs. for keeping ale. 

To bre-M tivo barrels from a quarter of malt. 

In the brewing of one quarter, turn on two bar- 
rels at 175 degrees; mash one hour: and let it stand 
for tlie same time. 

For second mash, turn on one barrel at 160 de- 
gi-ees. Mash one iiour and stand one hour; boil 
the first wort briskly for one hour; and boil the se- 
cond two hours, or till the whole is two barrels. 
Coot down to 60 degrees and tun. Cleanse on the 
4lh day at 72 degrees, previously mixing two ounces 
ot ginger, ^ an ounce of salt, and a handful of flour. 

Keep tlie working tun closely covered, and just 
before tlie head begins to fall, skim the top, and 
rouse in the rest. When the blebs are large and 
on the fret, rouse in ^ an ounce of salt of tartar, a 
handful of malted bean-flour, and some fresh yeast, 
after which it will ferment more kindly, and the 
cleansing may soon follow, with the new head on. 
Take care to fill up the cask while working, and 
before bunging put a handful of scalded hops into 
each. Sometimes the fermentation is conducted 
by skimming, as soon as the head bears a yeasty' 
appearance: then by skimming and rousing as often 
as other heads arise, till no other head appears. 

Or, cleansing may take place without skimming 
or rousing, as soon as the head begins to fall, tak- 
ing care, by means of a pipe rising within the tun, 
that the yeast does not pass into tiie Jjarrels, The 
quantity of hops boiled in the wort should vary ao- 
cording to the intention. Six pounds will sufike ■ 
for ale for present use. > 

In llie above instiuice a barrel and a quarter of 
liquor at 150 degrees may afterwards be tunned Car 
a barrel of table beer. 

To brew ale in small families. 

A bushel and three quarters of ground malt, and 
a pound of hops, are sufiicient to make 18 gallons 
of good family ale. That the saccharine matter of 
the malt may be extracted by infusion, without the 
farina, the temperature of the water should not ex- 
ceed 155 or 160 deg. Fahrenheit's thermometer. 
The quantity of water siiould be poured on the 
malt as speedily as possible, and the whole being 
well mixed together by active stirring, the vessd 
should be closely covered over for an houi-; if the 
weather be cold, for an hour and a half. If hard 
water be employed, it should be boiled, and the 
temperature allowed, by exposure to the atmo- 
sphere, to fall to 155 or 160 degrees Fahrenheit; 
but if rain water is used, it may be added to the 
malt as soon as it arrives to 155 degrees. During 
the lime this process is going on, tlie hops should 
be infused in a* close vessel, in as much boiling 
water as will cover them, for two hours, Th« li» 



no 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



quor may then be squeezed out, and kept closely 
covered. 

The hops should then be boiled for about ten 
minutes, in double the quantity of water obtained 
from the infused hop, and the strained hquor, when 
cold, mav be added with the infusion, to the wort, 
■when it has fallen to the temperature of 70 deg. 
The object of infusing the hop in a close vessel 
previously to boiling, is to preserve the essential 
oii of the hop, which renders it more sound, and, 
at the same time, more wholesome. A pint of good 
thick yeast should be well stirred into the mixture 
of wort and hops, and covered over in a place of 
the temperature of 65 deg. Fahrenheit; and when 
the fermentation is completed, the liquor may be 
drawn off into a clean cask previously rinsed with 
boiling water. AVhen the slow fermentation which 
■will ensue has ceased, the cask should be loosely 
bunged for two days, when, if the liquor be left 
quiet, the bung may be properly fastened. The 
pale malt is the best, because, when highly dried. 
It does not aftbrd so much saccharine matter. If 
the raalt be new, it should be exposed to the air, 
in a dr)- room, for two days previously to its being 
used; but if it be old, it may be used in V2 or 20 
iours after it is ground. The great difterence 
m the flavour of ale, made by different brewers, 
appears to arise from their employing difterent 
st<ecies of the hop. 

Another method of brexving ale. 

For 36 gallons, take of malt (usually pale), 2J 
busnels, sugar, 3 lbs. just boiled to a colour, hops, 
2 lbs. 8 oz. coriander seeds, 1 oz. capsicum, | a 
drachm. 

Work it 2 or 3 days, beating it well up once or 
twice a dav; when it begins to fall, cleanse it by 
adding a handful of salt, and some wheat-flour. 
Table beer only, from pale malt. 

The first mash should be at 170 deg. viz. two 
barrels per quarter; let it stand on the grains three- 
quarters of an hour in hot weather, or one hour if 
cold. Second mash, 145 deg., at 1^ barrels per 
quarter, stands half an hour. Third, 165 deg., two 
torels per quarter, stands half an hour. Fourth, 
130 deg., three barrels, stands two hours. The 
first wort to be boiled witli 6 lbs. of hops per quar- 
ter, for an hour and a half, the s;:cond wort to be 
boiled with the same hops two hours, and the re- 
mainder three hours. The whole to be now heat- 
ed as low as 55 deg., if the weather permits, and 
put to work with about 5 pints of yeast per quar- 
ter; if the weather is too warm to get them down 
to 55 deg., a less proportion will be suflicient. The 
eight barrels of liquor first used, will be reduced 
to six of beer to each quarter; one barrel being left 
in" the gi-ains, and another evaporated in boiling, 
cooling, and working. 

Table beer from nigar. 

To 4 pounds of coarse brown sugar, add 10 gal- 
lons of water, then put in three ounces of hops, and 
let the whole boil for three quarters of an hour, and 
•work it as usual. It should be kept a week or ten 
days before it is tapped, when it will improve daily 
afterwards, within a moderate time of consump- 
tion. 

Table betrfrom treacle. 

Another method, and for a smaller quantity, is, 
to put a pound of treacle to eight quarts of boiling 
^valer: add two bay-lenves, and a quarter of ati 
ounce of ginger in powder. Boil the whole for 
fifteen minutes, tlien let it become cool, and work 
it with yeast. 

Another method. — For ten barrels. Take of 
malt, 8 bushels, hops, 8 pounds, sugar, 8 pounds 
raa<le into colour, Spanis!i iiquorioe, 8 oz. treacle, 
10 lbs. Proceed as above 



Me and small beer on Mr Cobbefa plan. 
Utensils. 

These are first, a copper, costing 51. that will 
contain at least 40 gallons. 

Second, a mashing-tub, costing SOs. to contain 
60 gallons; for the malt is to be in this along with 
the water. It must be a little broader at top than 
at bottom, and not quite so deep as it is wide 
across the bottom. In the middle ot the bottom there 
is a hole about two inches over, to draw the wort off. 
Into this hole goes a stick a foot or two longer 
than the tub is high. This stick is to be about two 
inches through, and tapered for about eight inches 
upwards, at the end that goes into the hole, which 
at last it fills up as closely as a cork. Before any 
thing else is put into the tub, lay a little bundle of 
fine birch about half the bulk of a birch broom, 
and well tied at both ends. This being laid over 
the hole (to keep back tlie grains as the wort goes 
out) put the tapered end of tlie stick down through 
it into the liole, and thus cork tlie whole up. Then 
have sometliing of weight suflicient to keep the 
birch steady at the bottom of the tub, with a hole 
through it to sKp down the stick; the best thing 
for this purpose will be a leaden collar for tlie stick, 
with the hole large enough, and it should weigh 3 
or 4 pounds. 

Third, an underhack, or shallow tub, costing 25*. 
to go under the mash-tub for the wort to run into 
when drawn from the gi'ains. 

Fourth, a tun-tub, that will contain 30 gallons, 
to put tlie ale into to work, the mash-tub serving 
as a tun-tub for the small beer. Besides these a 
couple of coolers, or shallow tubs, about a foot 
deep; or, if there are four it may be as well, in or- 
der to effect the cooling more quickly; the whole 
costing 25s. 

Process of breitiing the ale. 

Begin by filling the copper with water, and next 
by making the water boil. Then put into the 
mashing-tub water sufficient to stir and separate 
the malt. The degree of heat that tlie water is to 
be at, before the malt is put in, is one hundred and 
severity degrees by the thermometer: but, without 
one, takelhi&rule: when you can, looking down into 
the tub, see your face clearly in the water, the wa- 
ter is hot enough. Now put in the malt and stir it 
well in the water. In this state it should continue 
for about a quarter of an hour. In the meanwhile 
fill up the copper, and make it boil; and then put 
in boiling water sufficient to give eighteen gallons 
of ale. 

When the proper quantity of water is in, stir the 
mnlt again well, and cover the mashing-tub over 
■ivith sacks, and there let the mash stand for two 
hours: then draw oft' the wort. The mashing-tub 
is placed on a couple of stools, so as to be able to 
put theunderback under it, to receive the wort, as 
it comes out of the hole. When the underhack is 
put in its place, let out the wort by pulling up the 
stick that corks the hole. But, obserre, this stick 
(which goes six or eight inches through the hole) 
must be raised by degrees, and the wort must ba 
let out slowly in order to keep back the sediment. 
So that it is necessary to have something to keep 
tlie stick up at the point where it is to be raised, 
and fixed at for the time. To do this the simplest 
tiling is a stick across the mashing-tun. 

As the ale-wort is drawn off" into the small un- 
derhack, lade it out of that into the tun-tub; put 
the wort into the copper, and add a pound and a 
half of good hops, -well rubbed and separated as 
they are put in. Now make the copper boil, and 
keep it, with the lid off", at a good brisk boil for a 
full hour, or an hour and a half. AVhen the boil- 
ing is done, put the liquor into the coolers; but 



BREWING. 



Ill 



strain out the hops in a small clothes-basket, or 
v/icker-basket. Now set the coolers in the most 
convenient place, in doors or out ol' doors, as most 
convenient. 

The next stage is the tun-tub, where the liquor 
is set to work. A great point is, the degree of heat 
that the liquor is to be at, when it is set to work. 
The proper iieat is seventy degrees ; so that a 
thermometer makes the matter sure. In the coun- 
try they determine the degree of heat by merely 
putting a finger into the liquor. 

\Vhen cooled to the proper heat, put it into the 
tun-tub, and put in about half a pint of good yeast. 
But the yeast should first be put into half a gallon 
of the liquor, and mixed well; stirring in with the 
yeast a handful of wheat or rj'e-flour. This mix- 
ture is then to be poured out clean into the tun- 
tub, and the mass of the liquor agitated well, till 
the j'east be well mixed with the whole. When 
the liquor is thus properly put into the tun-tub and 
set a working, cover over the top, by laying a sack 
or two across it. 

The tun-tub should stand in a place neither too 
warm nor too cold. Any cool .place in summer, 
and any warm place in winter, and if the M'eather 
be very cold, some cloths or sacks should be put 
round tlie tun-tub while the beer is working. In 
about six or eight hours a frothy head will rise 
upon the liquor; and it will keep rising, more or 
less slowly, for 48 hours. The best way is to take 
oft' the froth, at the end of about 24 hours, with a 
common skimmer, and in 12 hours take it oft' again, 
and so on, till the liquor has done working, and 
sends up no more yeast. Then it is beer; and, 
when it is quite cold, (for ale or strong beer,) put 
It into the cask by means oiafunneL It must be 
cold before this is done, or it will he foxed; that 
IS, have a rank and disagreeable taste. 

I'he cask should lean a little on one side when 
filling it, because the beer will work again, and 
*end more yeast out of the bung hole. Something 
will go off in this working, which may continue fur 
two or three days, so tliat when the beer is putting 
in the cask, a gallon or two should be left, to keep 
filling up with as the working produces emptiness. 
At last, when the working is completely over, 
block the cask up to its level. Put in a handful of 
fresh hops; fill the cask quite full and bung it 
tight, with a bit of coarse linen round the bung. 

When the cask is empty, great care must be taken 
to cork it tightly up, so that no air gets in; for, if 
. so, the cask is moxddedxnA spoiled for ever. 
The small beer. 
Thirty-six gallons of boiling water are to go into 
the mashing-tub; the grains are to be well stirred 
up, as before; the mashing-tub is to be covered 
over, and the mash is to stand in that state for an 
hour; then draw it oif into the tun-tub. 

15y this time the copper will be empty again, by 
putting the ale liquor to cool. Now put the small 
beer wort into the copper with the hops used before, 
and with half a pound of fresh hops added to them; 
and this liquor boil briskly for an hour. 

Take the grains and the sediment clean out of 
the mashing-tub, put the birch twigs in again, and 
put down the stick as before. Put the basket over, 
and take the liquor from the copper (putting the 
fire out first) and pour it into the mashing-tub 
through the liasket. Take the basket away, throw 
the hops to the dunghill, and leave the small beer 
liquor to cool in the mashing-tub. 

Here it is to remain to be set to working; only, 
more yeast will be wanted in proportion ; and tbei-e 
should be for 36 gallons of small beer, three half 
pints of good yeast. 

Proceed now, as with the ale, only, in the case 
of tlie small beer, it should be put iuto cask, not 



quite cold; but a little ivaitn r or else it will not 
work in the barrel, which it ought to do. It will 
not work so strongly nor so long as ale; and may 
be put.pnto the barrel much sooner; in genei'al tho 
next day after it is brewed. 

All the utensils should be well cleaned and put 
away as soon as they are done with. " I am now," 
says Mr Gobbet, " in a farm house, where the 
same set of utensils have been used (ov forty years; 
and the owner tells me, that they may last iov forty 
years longei:" 

To brew ale and porter from sugar and malt. 
To eveiy quarter of malt take 100 pounds of 
brown sugar, and in the result, it will be fount] 
that the sugar is equal to the malt. The quarter 
of malt is to be brewed with the same proportions, 
as though it were two quarters; and sugar is to be 
put into the tun, and the first wort let down upon 
it, rousing the whole well together. 

The other worts are then to be let down, and the 
fermentation and other processes carried on as ia 
the brewing of malt. 

To brerwfoxir bushels of malt, with only one copper, 
mash-tub, and cooler. 
If the mash-tub holds two barrels, it is better 
than a smaller one, that there may be i-oom enough 
for mashing; in such a one fix a brass cock of three 
quarters of an inch bore, let it be a plug and bas- 
ket. Use soft water (for brown or amber malt), 
covered with three or four handsful of malt or bran, 
if the water is thoroughly clear; if not, put as much 
salt as will lie on a crown-piece, into a copper that 
holds at least one barrel, containing Sd gallons; 
and as it heats and the scum rises, take it off before 
it boils in. Then, when it begins to boil, lade two 
pailsful first into the mash-tub, and put two pails- 
tul ot cold water into the copper in their room, and 
just boil all again; then convey all the hot water 
into the mash-tub, and when the face can be seen 
in it, mix the malt a little at a time. Wash, and 
let all stand two hours under a cover of cloths; at 
the end of which run a drizzling stream, and taster 
by degrees, on a few hops, to secure it. While 
the first wort is standing and running off, another 
copper must boil to clean vessels, and what is used 
this way is to be supplied by adding more cold 
water, and boiling it again, two pailsful of which 
are to be thrown on the grains, as the first woit 
runs off. These four pailsful of hot water are al- 
lowed for the malt to absorb, being a bucket to 
each bushel, and thus the brewer has nearly a full 
barrel of first wort come oiT, which is to be boiled 
with half a ]iound of hops till it breaks, first into 
very small particles, and then into larger, till the 
flukes are as large as wheat chaff". As soon as tiie 
first wort has run off from the mash-tub, the second 
copper of boiling water is to be put over the grains 
and mashed. I'his is to stand one hour before it is 
begun to be discharged; and while this is standing 
and running oft", the first wort is to be boiled and, 
put into coolers, and a third copper of only heated 
water is to be thrown over the grains, as soon as 
the second wort is spent oft', which also ia to ba 
mashed. 

While this is standing for one hour, and then 
run oft', boil the second wort with half a pound of 
fresh hops, till it breaks into small particles, and 
immediately after boil the third copper, with 4 
ounces of fresh hops during one hour, for this last 
wort is too meagre to show its tinxe by breaking. 

By tills method, in a barrel copper, may be boil- 
ed thirty-one gallons of neat first wort, which is to 
be cooled, worked, and then put into two kilder- 
kins, one of entire ale, but the second a little 
weaker on account of having had five gallons of the 
second wort put into it to fill it up. Besides this, 
the brewer will have a hogshead of good small beer. 



112 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



made with the second and third coppers of after- 
worts. 

To hrcv Welch uU'. 

Take .1 quarters of the best i);ile malt, 25 lbs. of 
hops, 7 ll)s. of sii;;ar, :iii(l j H). f,'rains of paradise. 

Turn on tho fust li(iiior at 178 degrees. Masli 
for an hour aud a hidf, :uid stand two hours. Tiu-n 
on second li(pior at 190 degrees, and stand two 
liovu's, I?oil an hour and a half, and put in tlie 
sii"-ar just before lurnin;; into the coolers. Pilcli 
the tun at f)'2 degrees and put in llie li(|Uorice root. 
Cleanse iit SO degrees, using salt and Hour. 

After tiie second ir.ash, turn on for table beer at 
1.^0 degrees. Mash three quarters of an hour, and 
stand two hours. 

To hrexu Burton ale. 

Of this strong ale, oni}'^ a barrel and a half is 
tlrawn from a quarter, at 180 degrees for the Hrst 
mash, and 190 degrees for the second, followed l)y 
a gyle of table beer. It is tunned at 58 degrees, 
and cleansed at 72 degrees. 'I'he lUuton brewers 
use the finest pale malt, and grind it a day or two 
before being used. They employ Kentish hops, 
from six to iiglit pounds per quarter. 
'I'o bvina Jling-Mnoil ale. 

This brewing produces two barrels and a half 
from the quarter. The best pale malt and pocket 
iiops are used at the rate of six pounds to the quar- 
ter. Turn on first mash at 1 80 degrees, and second 
mash at 190 degrees. Pitch the tun at CO degrees, 
and cleanse at 80 degrees. Mash successivi'ly one 
hour, aiul three ([uarlers of an hour, standing an 
hour aud a half, and two hours. Add in tlie tun 
two pounds of yeast for every barrel, and coat with 
BiUt and Hour after the first skinuning. 

After the second mash, turn on for table beer, at 
150 degrees. 

To bve-cv Moitingham (tie in I he small ^val/. 

ITie first copperful of boiling water is to be put 
>nto the mash-tub, there to lie a quarter of an hour, 
till the steam is far spent; or as soon as the hot 
water is put in, throw into it a pail or two of cold 
water, which will bi'iug it at once to a proper teni- 
jierature; tluai let ihrec bushels of malt run leisure- 
ly into it, and stir or mash all the while, hut no 
more than just to keep the malt from clotting or 
hailing; when that is done, put one bushel of dry 
malt at the top, and let it stand covered two hours, 
or till the next copperful of water is boiled, then 
lade over the malt three liand-bowlsful at a time. 
These run oil' at tlie cock or tap by a very small 
Eti-eani before moi'e is put on, which again must be 
returned into the mash-tub till it comes oil" exceed- 
ingly line. 'J'liis slow way takes sixteen hours in 
brewing four bushels of malt. Between the lad- 
ings, put cold water into the copper to boil, while 
llie other is rumiing oil'; by this means, the copper 
.'s kept up nearly full, ami the cock is kept run- 
ning to the end of the brewing. Only twenty-one 
g;dlons nuist be saved of the first wort, which is 
reserved in a tub, wherein four ounces of hops are 
put, and then it is to be set by. 

Tor the secoi\d wort there are twenty gallons of 
water in the copper boiling which must be laded 
over in the same manner as the former, but no cold 
water need be mixed. When half of this is run 
out into a tub, it must be directly put into the cop- 

Iier with half of the first wort, strained tlirough the 
irewing sieve as it lies on a small loose wooden 
frame over the copper, in order to keep those hops 
that were first put in to preserve it, which is to 
make the first copper twenty-one gallons. Then, 
upon .its beginning to l)oil, j>ut in a pound of hops 
in one or two canvass bags, somewhat larger than 
will just contain the hojjs, tirat an allowance may 
he given for their swell; this boil very briskly fur 
k U ou hour, whcu take tlic hops out and coiitiuuc 



hoiling the wort l)y itself till it hrc.iks into particles 
a litth; ragged; it is tiien done, and must be dis- 
persed into the cooling tubs very shallow. I'ut 
the remainder of the first and second wort together, 
and boil it in the same manner, and with the same 
quantity of fresh ho]is, as tlie first. 

I?y this method of brewing, ah; may he made as 
strong or as small as is thought fit, and so may tlic 
small beer that comes after. 

'J'o bre-M Jhjrcliester ale. 

Poil the water, and let it stand till (he face can 
be seen in it; then put the malt in by degrees, and 
stir it; let it stand two hours; then tiu'n on the 
])roi)er complement. 13oil the wort and hops 
tliirty mimites; cool it as soon as possible, stirring 
it so that the bottoms may be mingled; then set it 
in the gyle-tun, until it gathers a head, wliich must 
be skinnned off; then put in the yeast, ;uid work it 
till the head falls; then cleanse it, keeping the cask 
filled up so long as it will work. 

The malts used are l-3d pale, and 2-,3ds amber, 
with six or seven pounds of hops to the ([uarter. . 
l!y tlie thermometer, the heat of the first li(juor is 
170 degrees, and of the second 180 degrees, aud the 
produce is two barrels per quarter. 
JJ'o Inxw J-2ssex ale. 

Procure two mashing-tubs, one that will mash 
4 bushels, and the other 2, and a co\H)er that holds 
half a hogshead. The water, when boiled, is put 
into the largest tub, and a i)ail of cold water imme- 
diately on (hat: then put the malt in by a hand- 
bowlful at a time, stirring it all the while, and so 
on in a greater (|uantity by degrees; (for the danger 
of balling is mostly at first) till at last half a bushel 
of dry malt is left for it top-cover: thus let it stand 
three hours. In the mean while, another copper 
of water is directly heated, and ])Ut as before into 
the other mash-ttd), for mashing two bushels of 
mtdt, which stands that limu. Then, after the wort 
of the four bushels is run ott', let tliat also of tlie 
two bushels spend, and lade it over the four bush- . 
els, tlie cock running all the wliile, and it will 
make in all a coiiper and a half of wort, wliich is 
boiled at twice; that is, when the first copper is 
boiled an hour, or till it breaks into large ilakcs, 
then take half out, and put the remaining raw wort 
to it, and boil it about half an hour till it is broke. 
Now, while the two worts are running ofl', a cop- 
])er of water almost scalding hot is made ready, anil 
jiut over the goods or grains of both tubs; after 
an liour's standing the cock is turned, and liiis se- 
cond wort is boiled away, and put over the grains 
of botli tubs to stand an hour; when oil', it is put 
into the copper and boiled again, and then serves 
hot instead of the first water, for mashing four 
bushels of fresh malt; after it has again lain three 
hours, and is spent oil', it is boile<l; but while in 
the mash tub, a copper of water is heated to put 
over the goods or grains which stands an hour, and 
is tiien boiled for small-beer. And thus may lie 
brewed 10 bushels of malt with 2 pounds and a ludf 
of hops for the whole. 

'J'u bve^u Barnstable ale. 

I?oil the water, then throw twojiails of cold into 
the mash-tun, and afterwards the boiling water; 
then immediately put in the malt, half a bushel at 
a time. After stirring it till all is soaked, cap it 
with malt or brai), and cover it close to stand three 
hours, then see if the masli is sunk in the middle, 
which it will sometimes do, and when it does, it 
shows the strength, and must be filled level with 
boiling water to stand half an hour after, when it 
is to be run oil' in a goose (piill stre:ini, which is to 
be returned upon the grains again, by a bowl or 
pailful at :i time, as fin- back as [jossible from the 
cock; for then the Tupior strains ihiuugh the body 
of the grihns, aud at last comes very hue. Other- 



IIREVVING. 



k 



is'lse the thick parts are forced down to the cock. 
Tliis is called douMing;; continue to do so for half 
nti hour, tlicn stoj), and let it stand half an hour 
longer in winter, but not in summer. Then rub 
four pounds of hops very fine into the sieve for tiie 
wort to run off; do not draw it oft' too near before 
lading; over more boiling water out of the copper. 
This IS to be continued till the whole cpiantity of 
ale wort is obtained, which, with all tlie hops, is 
to be boiled till the liquor breaks or curdles. Now 
empty all into larujc earthen long i)ans or coolers. 
This work, when cold, with the same hojjS altogether 
thus: put :i little yeast (as little as possible), and 
that not a day old, to a ([uantily, and mix tbat with 
all the rest to work twelve or fourteen hours, aiid 
then strain it direc-tly into the barrel, where keep 
filling; it until it is done working. 

jf'o dreiv Edinlmrgh ale. 

Adopt the best pale malt. 

1st. Mash two barrels per quarter, at 183 deg. 
(170); mash three quarters of an hour, let it stand 
one hour, and allow half an hour to run oft" the 
wort. 

2',1. Mash one barrel per quarter, at 190 deg. 
(183); mash three quarters of an hour, let it stand 
three quartt-rs of an hour, and tap as before. 

3d. Mash one barrel per quarter, ;it 100 deg.; 
mash half an hour, let it stand half an hour, and 
tap as before. 

The first and second wort may be mixed toge- 
ther, boiling them about an hour or an hour and a 
quarter, with a quantity of hops proportioned to 
tlie time the beer is intended to be kept. 

The two first may be mixed at the heat of 60 or 
65 deg. in the gyle-tun, and the second shoidd be 
fermented separately for small beer. 
To brew Windsor ale. 

Take 5 quarters of the best pale malt, half a cwt. 
of hops, 8 lbs. of hone}', 1 lb. of coriander seed, 
half lb. of grains of par;t«lise, half lb. of orange 
peel, and two and a half lbs. of ground liquorice 
root. 

The hops should he of the best kind, and soaked 
rdl night in cold li([Uor. Turn on at 180 deg. 
mash thoroughly an hour and a quarter, and stand 
fin hour. Boil one hour. 

Turn on second liquor at 195 deg. and stand 
three quarters of an hour. Boil three hours. 

Turn on third liquor at 105 (\q.^. mash three 
quarters of an hour, and stand the same. Pitch 
the tun at CO deg. and cleanse at SO on the tliird 
day. Skim as soon as a close yeasty head appears, 
until no yeast arises. Half a jiound of hops per 
quarter should be roused in, and the whole left to 
settle. Also rouse in six ounces of salt, half a 
pound of flour, six ounces of ground ginger, anxl 
six ounces of ground caraway seed. 

The drugs above mentioned are forbidden, 
under the penalty of two hundred pounds, and the 
forfeiture of all utensils; but of course pi-ivate fa- 
milies are at liberty to use whatever they please. 
Nothing but malt and hops are permitted to public 
brewers, except the colouring extract; and drug- 
gists who sell to brewers are subject to a penalty 
of five hundred pounds. 

Windsor ale yields about 3J barrels to tlie quar- 
ter. 

To breiu loith JiTcedhai.i's portable mac/dne, by 
■which the malt is boiled -withmit masliing. 

The saving, by brewing one bushel of malt, is 
above italf. 

The machine being placed ready for use, put the 
malt into the cylinder, (taking care none goes into 
tlie centre nor between the cylinder and outside 
boiler), add fourteen gallons of cold water to each 
bushel of malt, then light the fire, and raise the 
liquor to 180 deg;rcea of heat, as loou as possible, 



which must be ascertained by dipping the thermo- 
meter one minute into the liquor. Stir the m;dt 
well up with a mashing stick, or mashing iron, for 
ten minutes, to divide every particle of malt from 
each other, keeping the heat from 170 to 180 de- 
gi-ees for two hours (to prevent the liquoi- from 
being over heated, damp the fire with wet ashes, ». 
and leave the door o[ien)! then draw off the wort 
very gently (that it may run fine) into one "of the 
coolers, and put all the hops (rubbing them to 
break the lumps) on the top of the wort, to keep it 
hot till the time for returnmg it into the machine. 
Having drawn off" the ale wort, put into tbe ma- 
chine ten gallons of cold water to each bushel of 
malt, lirisken the fire, and make tbe liquor 180 
degrees of beat, as soon as possible, which must be 
ascertained by dipping the thermometer one mi- 
nute into the licjuor. Ilaving ascertained tluit the 
licpior is at 180 degrees of heat, stir the malt well 
up, as before, for ten minutes, keeping the heat 
from 170 to 180 degrees for one hour and a half; 
then draw oft" this table beer wort into the other 
cooler, and cover it over to keep it hot, until time 
for returning it into the machine for boiling. Hav- 
ing drawn oft" the table beer wort, clean the ma- 
chine from the grains, and return tbe first wort in- 
to the machine, with all the hops, taking cai'e the 
hops are all within (he cylinder, and that none of 
them get into the centre or between the cylinder 
and outer boiler. Make it boil as quick as you 
can, and let it boil one hour; after which damp tl»e 
fire, and draw it oft'into a cooler or coolers, which 
should be placed in the air, where it will cool 
quick; then return the second wort into the ma- 
chine, to tbe hops, make it boil as (juick as yoa 
can, and let it boil one hour; put out the fire; draw _ 
oft' the wort, and put it into a cooler placed in the 
air to cool cpiick. When the worts in tbe cooler 
are cooled down to 70 degrees of heat by the ther- 
mometer, put the proportion of a gill of fresh thick 
yeast to every nine gallons of wort into the cool- 
ers, first thinning the yeast witfi a little of the 
wort before you put it in, that it may the better 
mix; and when the ale wort is cooled do\Vn to GO 
degrees of heat, draw it oft' from the coolers, with 
the yeast and sediment, and put it into the ma- 
chine boiler (the machine boiler having been pre- 
viously cleared from the iiops and cylinder), 
which forms a convenient vessel, jdaced on its 
stand, for the ale to ferment in, which must be 
kept fermenting in it with the cover on, until the 
head lias the appearance of a thick brown yeast on 
the surface, an inch or two deep, which will taka 
three or four days. — [N. B. If the temperature of 
the weather is below 55 degrees of heat by the 
tbe thermometer, it will be belter to place the fer- 
menting vessel in a situation not exposed to the 
cold]; — when the head has this appearance, draw 
oft" the beer from the yeast and bottoms into a 
clean cask, which must be filled full, and when 
done working, put in a handful of dry hops, bung 
it down tight, and stow it in a cool cellar. Tliis 
ale will be fit to tap in Uiree or four weeks. 

The second wort for table beer should be put 
from tbe coolers, with yeast and sediment, into an 
upright cask, with tlie cover oft", or top head out, 
at not exceeding OO degrees of heal; and as soon as ■ 
you perceive a brown yeast on the surface, draw it 
oft' free from'the yeast and bottoms into a clean cask, 
which must be kept filled full, and when done 
working, put in a handful of dry hops, bung it 
down tight, and slow it in a cool cellar. 'I'his 
table beer will be fit to tap in a week,' or as soon as 
fine. 

To make table ale. 
Mix the first and second worts together, andfcr^ 
mcnt it, aud treat it the same as tlie ale. 

A' a 



112 



:4 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To brev) barter, or hroivn beer, imth table beer 
after, from the same malt and hops. 
Use pale and brown malt in equal quantities, 
i^ound coarse, ami strong brown coloured hops of 
a glutinous ([uality. If the beer is for present 
(Iraugiit, three quarters of a pound of hops to each 
bushel of malt will be sufficient, but if intended 
for store beer, use one pound to each bushel of 
malt. 

The process of brewing is the same as described 
for brewing ale, with table beer after, except tlie 
heat of each mash must not be so high bv 10 de- 
crees, on account of the brown malt; the first wort 
Jermented by itself will be stout porter, and fit to 
tap in three or four weeks; the second wort will be 
the table beer, and fit to tap in a week, or as soon 
as fine; but if you mix the first and second worts 
together, the same as for table ale, it will be good 
common porter. 

To brew table beer mihf. 
Let the malt be of one sort, of a full yellow co- 
lour (not brown malt), ground coarse, and strong 
brown coloured hops, of a glutinous quality. If 
for present draught, half a pound of hops to each 
bushel of malt will be sufiicient ; but if for keeping 
two or three months, use one pound of hops per 
bushel. 

The process of brewing is the same as described 
for brewing porter and table beer, with the addi- 
tion of another wort; that is, filling the machine a 
third time with water before you take out the 
grains, and treating the third mash the same as the 
second. 

The first drawing off, or wort, with part of the 
second wort, to be boiled (first) one hour witii all 
the hops, and the i-emainder of the second wort 
with the third, to be boiled next one hour to the 
same hops; these two boilings, when cooled down 
to 60 degrees of heat, (having put your yeast to it 
in the coolers at 70 degrees), must be put together 
to ferment in the machine boiler, and as soon as it 
has the appearance of a brown yeast on the surface, 
,<lraw it off into the casks, whicli must be kept fill- 
ed full; and when done working, put into each 
cask a handuil of dry hops, bung it down tight, and 
])ut it into a cooler cellar. Tap iu a week, or as 
soon as fine. 

This machine may be had from 8?. to 55Z., and 
sets of coolers from 2L to 31/. 

Cheap and agr'eeable table beer. 
Take 15 gallons of water and boil one half, put- 
ting the other into a barrel; add the boiling water 
to tlie cold, witli one gallon of molasses and a little 
yeast. Keep the bung hole open till the fermenta- 
tion is abated. 

To make sugar beer. 
Very excellent beer is made of sugar, and also 
of treacle. P'irst boil a peck of bran in 10 gallons 
of water; strain the bran off, and mix with the 
branny water three pounds of sugar, first stirring 
it well; when cool enough, add a tea-cupful of the 
best yeast, and a table-spoonful of tiour to a bowl 
nearly full of the saccharine matter, which, when 
it has fermented for about an hour, is to be mixed 
■with the remainder, and hopped with about half a 
poilnd of hops, and tlie following day, it may be 
put into the cask, to ferment further, which usual- 
ly takes up three days, when it is to be bunged, 
aifd it wiil be fit for drinking in a week. Treacle 
lieer is made in the same way, three pounds of it 
being- used instead of three pounds of sugar. 
N. U. Thisbeerwillnotkeepanylengthof time. 

S[jnice beer. 

Boil eight gallons of water, and when in a state 

of complete ebullition pour it into a beer barrel 

•which contains eight gallons more of cold water; 

iLen add sixteen pounds of molasses, witli a few 



tablespoonsful of the essence of spruce, stirring 
the whole well together; add half a pint of yeast 
and keep it in a temperate situation, with the bung 
hole open for two days till the fermentation be abat- 
ed, when the bung may be |)Ut in and the beer bot- 
tled oft'. It is fit to drink in a day or two. If you 
can get no essence of spruce make a strong decoc- 
tion of the small twigs and leaves of the spruce fii'S. 
Bran beer. 

Good fresh table beer may be made with sound 
wheat bran, at the rate of 2d. per gallon, beer 
measure, estimating the price of bi-an at 4». per 
cwt., and the saccharine density of the wort ex- 
tracted, at 16 lbs. per bai-rel; but the «se of the 
instrument called saccharometer, in domestic prac- 
tice, is not necessary, the process in brewing with 
wheat bran being sufficiently known to every good 
housewife, especially to those of labourers in hus- 
bandry, as well as that for this purpose nothing of 
apparatus is needful, but such as ought to be in 
common use with every cottager in the country. 
A few pounds per barrel of treacle, or the coarsest 
Muscovado sugar, would be a cheap imi)rovement 
as to strength, which indeed might be increased 
to any degree required. 

Yorkshire oat ale. 

Grind a quart of oat malt, made with the white 
sort, and dried with coke, and mash with forty- 
four gallons of cold soft v/ater, let it stand twelve 
hours; then allow it to spend in a fine small stream, 
and put two jjounds of fine pale hops, well rubbed 
between the hands, into it; let it infuse, cold, for 
three hours, then strain and tun it; put yeast to it, 
and it will work briskly for about two di.ys; then 
stop it up, and in ten days it will be fit to bottle. 
It drinks very smooth, brisk, and pleasant, and looks 
like white wine, but will not keep. 
Cheap beer. 

Pour ten gallons of boiling water upon 1 peck of 
malt in a tub, stir it about well with a stick, let it 
stand about half an hour, and then draw off the 
wort; pour 10 gallons moro of boiling water upon 
the malt, letting it remain another half hour, stir- 
ring it occasionally, then (haw it off and put it to 
the former wort: when this is done, mix 4 ounces 
of hops with it, and boil it well; then strain the 
hops from it, and when the woit becomes milk- 
warin, put some yeast to it to make it ferment: 
when the fermentation is nearly over, put the li- 
quor into a cask, and as soon as the fermentation 
has perfectly subsided, bung it close down — tlie 
beer is then fit for use. 

To make beer and ale from pea shells. 

No production of this country abounds so much 
with vegetable saccharine matter as the shells of 
green peas. A strong decoction of them so much 
resemljles, in odour and taste, an infusion of malt 
(termed wort) as to deceive a brewer. This de- 
coction, rendered slightly bitter with the wood sage., 
and aftev wards fermented with yeast, alfords a very 
excellent beverage. The method employed is as 
follo\vs: 

Fill a boiler with the green shells of peas, poor 
on water till it rises half an incli above the shells, 
and simmer for three hours. Strain oft" the liquor, 
and add a strong decoction of the wood sage, or 
the hop, so as to render it pleasantly bitter; then 
ferment in the usual manner. The wood sage is 
the best substitute for hops, atid being free from 
any anodyne property, is entitled to a preferenco. 
By boiling a fresli quantity of sliells in the decoc- 
tion before it becomes cold, it may be so thorouglv- 
I ly impregnated witli saccharine matter, as to afibrd 
' a liquor, when fermented, as strong as ale. 
Required time for keeping beer. 

This depends on tlie temperature, at which the 
I malt has beeu made, as luider. 



BREWING. 



115 



Malt made at 119 degrees ■will produce beer 
which maybe drawn in a fortnight — at 124 deg. 
in a month — at 129 deg. in 3 do. — at 134 deg. in 4 
do. — at 138 deg. in 6 do. — at 143 deg. in 8 do. — at 
148 deg. in 10 do.— at 152 deg. in 15 do.— at 157 
deg. in 20 do. — at 162 deg. in 24 do. 
To give any req^dred brightness or colour to beer. 

This depends on tlie temperature at which tlie 
malt has been made, and on its colour as under: 

Malt made at 119 degrees produces a white, — at 
124 deg. a cream colour, — at 129 deg, a light j'el- 
low, — at 134 deg. an amber colour. 

These, when properly brewed, become sponta- 
neously fine, even as far as 138 degrees. When 
brewed for amber, by repeated fermentations, they 
become pellucid. — At 138 degrees, a high amber. 
—At 143 deg. a paie brown. 

By precipitation, tliese grow bright in a short 
time. — At 148 deg. a brown. — At 152 deg. a high 
brown. 

With precipitation these require 8 or 10 months 
to be bright. — At 157 deg. a brown, inclining to 
black. — At 162 deg, a brown speckled witli black. 

With precipitation these may be fined, but will 
never become bright. — At 167 deg. a blackisli 
brown speckled v.itli black. — .\t 171, a colour of 
burnt coffee. — At 176, a black. 

These with difiicuUy can be brewed without set- 
ting the goods, and will by no means become bright 
not even with the strongest acid menstruum. 
To brew amber beer. 

Amber is now out of fashion, but formerly was 
drank in great quantities in London, mixed with 
bitters, and called purl. The proportions of malt 
were 3 quarters amoer, and 1 quarter pale, with 6 
pounds of hops to tlie quarter, Tiie first liquor is 
nsually tunned at 170 degrees, and the second at 
1 85 degrees. The worts are boiled together for 2 
hours. It is tunned at 64 degrees, and after 24 
hours roused every 2 hours, till the heat is increas- 
ed to 74. It is then skimmed evei-y hour for 6 
hours and cleansed, and generally used as soon as 
it has done working in the barrels. 
Another method of breinng amber beer, or txuo- 
perMij. 

For 36 gallons: malt, 1 bushel and a half, hops, 
1 lb. liquorice root, 1 lb. 8 oz. treacle, 5 lbs. Spa- 
nish liquorice, 2 oz. capsicum, 2 drachms; fre- 
quently drank the week after it is, brewed; used in 
cold weather as a stimulant. 

To make molasses beer. 

For small beer, put nine pounds of molasses into 
a barrel-copper of cold water, first mixing it well, 
and boiling it briskly, with a quarter of a pound of 
hops or more, one hour, so that it may come off 27 
gallons. 

To fine beer. 

To finebeer, should it be requisite, take an ounce 
of isinglass, cut small, and boil it in three quarts 
of beer, till completely dissolved; let it stand till 
quite cold, then put it into a cask, and stir it well 
with a stick or whisk; the beer so fined should be 
tapped soon, because the isinglass is apt to make it 
flat as well as fine. 

Another method. — Take a handful of salt, and the 
same quantity of chalk scraped fine and well dried; 
then take some isinglass, and dissolve it in some 
stale beer till it is about the consistence of syrup: 
sti-ain it, and add about aquartto the salt and chalk, 
with two quarts of molasses. Mix them all well 
together, with a gallon of the beer, which must be 
drawn oft"; then \i\it it into the cask, and take a 
stick, or whisk, and stir it well till it ferments. 
When it has subsided, stop it up close, and in two 
days it may be tapped. This is sufiicient for a butt. 

Another. — Take a pint of water, and half an 
ounce of unslaked lime, mix them well together. 



letting the mixture stand for three hours, that the 
lime m.ay settle at the bottom. Then pour oft" the 
clear liquor, and mix with it half an ounce of isin- 
glass, cut small and boiled in a little water, pour 
it into the barrel, and in five or si.x hours the beer 
will become' fine. 

Another. — In general, it will become sufficiently 
fine by keeping; but fineness may be promoted by 
putting a handful of scalded hops into the cask. If 
the beer continues thick, it may then be fined by 
putting a pint of the following preparation into the 
barrel. 

Put as much isinglass into a vessel as will occu- 
py one-third; then fill it up with old beer. When 
dissolved, rub it through a sieve, and reduce it to 
the co,nsistency of treacle with more beer. A pint 
of this put into the cask and gently stirred with a 
short stick, will fine the barrel in a few hours. 
To fine cloiidy beer. 

Rack off the cask, and boil one pound of new hops 
in water, with coarse sugar, and when cold put in 
at the bung-Jiole. 

Or, new hops soaked in beer, and squeezed, may 
be put into the cask. 

Or, take 10 lbs. of baked pebblestone powder, 
with the whites of six eggs, and some powdered 
bay-salt, and mix them with 2 gallons of the beer. 
Pour in the whole into the casks, and in three or 
four days it will settle, and the beer be fine and 
agreeable. 

'Po recover thick, sovr malt liquor. 

Make strong hop tea witli boiling water and salt 
of tartar, and pour it into the cask. 

Or, i-ack tlie cask into two casks of equal size, 
and fill them up with new beer. 

To vamp malt liquors. 

Old beer may be renewed by racking one cask 
into two, and filling them from a new brewing, and 
in three weeks it will be a fine article. 
To restore mtisty beer. 

Run it through some hops that have been boiled 
in strong wort, and afterwards work it with double 
the quantity of new malt liquor: or if the fault is in 
the cask, draw it off" into a sweet cask, and having 
boiled 5 lb, of brown sugar in a quart of water, add 
a spoonful or two of yeast before it is quite cold, 
and when the mixtm-e ferments, pour it into tlie 
cask. 

To enliven and restore dead beer. 

Boil some water and sugar, or water and treacle, 
together, and when cold, add some new yeast; this 
will restore dead beer, or ripen bottled beer in 
24 hours; and it will also make worts work iathe 
tun, if they are sluggish. 

Or, a small tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda 
may be mixed with a quart of it, as it is drawn for 
drinking. 

Or, boil for every gallon of the liquor, 3 oz, of 
sugar in water; when cold, add a little yeast, and 
put the fermenting mixture into the flat beer, 
whether it be a full cask or the bottom of the cask. 

Or, beer may often be restored, which has be- 
come flat or stale, by railing and shaking the casks 
for a considerable time, which will create such a 
new fermentation as to render it necessary to open 
a vent-peg to prevent Uie cask from bursting, 
A speedy tuay of fining and preserving a cask of 
ale, or beer. 

Take a handful of the hops boiled in the first 
wort, and dried, ^ a pound of loaf sugar, dissolved 
in the beer, 1 pound of chalk, and ^ a pound of 
calcined oyster-shells. Put the whole in at the 
bung-hole, stirring them well and then re-bunging. 
This preparation will also suit for racked beer; in 
putting in the hops it may be advisable to jilace 
them in a net witTi a small stone in the bottom so 
as to sink them, otherwise Uiey will swim at the toft. 



116 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Impvnvcment in brtnuing. 

It appears by the Montlily Maejazine of July 1, 
1823, that the process of fermentation, so iini)ort- 
ant to the brewers and distillers, and others of this 
countty, is destined to undergo a very important 
change, in conse<|uence of a discovery made in 
France, whereby the practicability and advaiita,n;e 
of fermenting worts in close vessels has been fidly 
established. Instead of usins? broad and open vais, 
exposed fully to the atmospheric air, wliichwas 
formerly thought essential to the first and Yirinci- 
pal ]>rocess of fermenting worts, a quantity of al- 
cohol, mixed with the aroma or flavouring princi- 
ple of the wort, from 4i to 5 per cent, of the whole 
spirit which the wort is capable of yielding, after 
rising in vapour along witii the carbonic gas, is 
condensed and returned again into the wort, from 
a kind of alembic, fixed on the close top of the fer- 
menting tun, and connected therewith only by 
means of pipes. 

Messrs Gray and Dacre, in their brewery at 
West-Ham, in Essex, have adopted this new mode 
of fermenting their wort, and the success attending 
it is most complete. One essential advantage at- 
tending the use of a close vessel for fermenting, is 
the being able to preserve a more equable temper- 
ature in the wort, whereby neither the heat of 
summer nor the cold of winter are able to inter- 
mpt or frustrate the process of complete fermen- 
tation. Tlie exclusion of the oxygen of the at- 
mospheric air, by the same means, from cider, 
perry, or British wines, whilst under the process 
of fermentation, seems to promise a still greater 
improvement of the process than has attended the 
use of this invention in the fermenting of wines on 
the continent. 

To recover beer vihenfiat. 

Take four or five gallons out of a hogshead, boil 
it with four or five pounds of honey, skim it well 
■when cold, and put it into the cask again — then 
stop it Hj) close, and it will make the liquor drink 
stror^g and pleasant. 

Another method. — Take two ounces of new hops, 
and a pound of chalk broken into several pieces 
— put them into the cask, and bung it up close. In 
three days it will be fit to drink. This is the pro- 
per quantity for a kilderkin. 

Another method. — Take a fine net, and put in it 
about a pound of hops, with a stone cr something 
heavy to sink it to tlie bottom of the cask. This is 
sulFtcient for a butt — but if the cask be less, use the 
hops in proportion. Tap it in six months: or, if 
■wanted sooner, put in some hops that have been 
boiled a short time in the first wort, either with or 
"without a net. 

7'o prevent beer becoming stale and Jlat. 

First jnethod. — 'i'o a quart of Fi-ench brandy put 
as much wheat or bean fiour as will make it into a 
dough, and put it in, in long pieces, at the bung- 
hole, letting it fall gently to the bottom. This 
■will prevent the beer growing stale, keep it in a 
mellow state, and increase its strength. 

Second method. — To a pound of treacle or ho- 
ney, add a pound of the powder of dried oyster 
shells, or of soft mellow chalk — mix these into a 
Stiff" paste, and put it into the butt. This will pre- 
serve tlie beer iu a soft and mellow state for a long 
time. 

Tlurd method. — Dry a peck, of egg shells in an 
oven— break and mix them with two pounds of 
soft mellow chalk, and then add some water where- 
in four pounds of coarse sugar have been boiled, 
and put it into the cask. Tliis will be enough for 
a butt. 

Fourth method. — In a cask, containing eighteen 
gallons of beer, put a pint of ground malt suspend- 
ed in a bag, and close the bung peifectlj') the be«i.' 



will be improved during the whole time of draw- 
ing it for use. 

^lake use of any of these receipts most approved 
of, observing that the paste or dongli must Jje put 
into the cask when the beer has done working, or 
soon after, and bunged down. At the end of nine 
or twelve months tap it, and you will have a fine, 
generous, wholesome, and agreeable liquor. 

When the ^rcat quantily of sediment that lies at 
the bottom of the cask is neglected to be cleaned, 
this comj)ound of malt, hops, and yeast so affects 
tlie beer, that it partakes of all their corrosive qua- 
lities, which render it prejudicial to health, gene- 
rating various chronical and ac\ite diseases. Oa 
this account, during the whole process of brewing, 
do not allow the least sediment to mix with the 
wort in removing it from one tub or cooler to the 
ether; especially be careful, when tunning it into 
the cask, not to disturb the bottom of the working 
tub, which would prevent its ever being clear and 
fine. Again, by keeping it too long in the work- 
ing tub, persons who make a profit of the yeast f^'e- 
quently promote an undue fermentation, and keep 
it constantly in that state for five or six days; whicli 
causes all the spirit that should keep the beer soft 
and mellow to evaporate, and it will certainly get 
stale and hard, unless it has something wholesome 
to feed on. 

It is the practice of some persons to beat in the 
yeast, while the beer is working, for several days 
together, to m.ike it strong and heady, and to pro- 
mote its sale. This is a wicked and pernicious 
custom. Yeast is of a very acrimonious and nar- 
cotic quality, and when beat in for several days to- 
gether, the beer thoroughly iml)ibes its hurtful 
qualities. It is not discoverable by the taste, but is 
very intoxicating, and injures the whole nervous 
system, producing debility and all its conse- 
quences. Therefore, let the wort liave a free, na- 
tural, and light fermentation, and one day in the 
working tub will belong enough during cold wea- 
ther; but turn it the second day at the furthest, 
throw out the whole brewing, and afterwards in- 
troduce no improper ingredients. 

To prevent and cure fo.vhig in malt liqnors. 

Foxing, sometimes called bucking, is a disease 
of mait fermentation which taints the beer. It 
arises from dirty utensils; puttingthe separate worts 
together in vessels not too deep; using bad malt; by 
turning on the liquors at too great heats, and brew- 
ing in too hot weather. It renders the beer ropy 
iiiid viscid, like treacle, and it soon ttu'ns sour. 
When there is danger of foxing, a handful of hops 
should be thrown into the raw worts while tliey are: 
drawing off, and before they are boiled, as foxinw 
generally takes place when, from a scantiness or 
utensils, the worts are obliged to be kept some 
time before they are boiled. When there is a 
want of shallow coolers, it is a good precaution to 
put some fresh hops into the worts, and work them 
with the yeast. If the brewing foxes in the tun 
while working, hops should then he put into it, 
and they will tend to restore it, and extra care 
ought to be taken to prevent the lees being trans- 
ferred to the barrels. 

Some persons sift quick-lime into the tun when 
the brewing appears to be foxed.— If care is not 
t.aken to cleanse and scald the vessels after foxing, 
subsequent brewings may become tainted. 
Other methods of curing foxing. 

Cut a handful of hyssop small; mix it with a 
handful of salt, and put it into the cask. Stir and 
stop close. 

Or, infuse a handful of hops, and a little salt of 
tartar in boiling water; when cold, strain the li(juot 
off, and pour it into the cask, which stop close. 

Oi', roix an ouuc« of alum, with 2 ok. of raun. 



BREWING. 



117 



ard-seeil, and 1 oz. of g'mger; stir them iu the 

ack, and stop close. 
Or, in a fortnight, rack off the foxed beer, and 

ang 2 ll)s. of bruised Malaga raisins in a bag 
vithin the cask, and put in a mixture of treacle, 

lean-Hour, mustard-seed, and powdered alum. 
To restore a barrel of ropif beer. 
IMix a handful of bean-flour with a liandful of 
lalt, and stir it in at the bung-hole: or take some 
well infused hops, and mix them in with some 
settlings of strong wort, a\id stir tiie mixture in at 
tlie bung-hole. Or, powder half an ounce of alum 
very fine, and mix with a liandful of bean-fiour. 
To restore a barrel of stale, or sour beer. 

Put a quarter of a pound of good hops, and two 
pounds of sound chalk into the bung-hole; stop it 
close^and in a few days it will draw perfect!)' fresh. 
Or, a small tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda may 
be mixed wilh every quart as it is drank. 
To make a butt of porter, stout. 

Insert 4 'gallons of molasses and some finings; 
stir it well. In a week draw ofFthe cask by a cock 
inserted half way down. 

To restore frosted beer. 

Such beer is usually sweet and foul, and will 
never recover of itself; biLt to remedy this, make 
a pailful of fresh wort, into which put a handful of 
rubbed hops, and boil them half an hour, so tbat 
it may be very bitter, and when almost cold, draw 
a pailful from the cask, and re-fill it with the bit- 
ter wort. Fermentation will re-commence, but 
when this is over bung it up for a month. If it is 
not then restored, rack it into another cask, and 
put into it ^ a peck of parched wheat, and 1 lb. of 
good hops, dried and rubbed, and tied up in a net. 
iJung it down, leaving the vent-hole open for a day 
or two, and in a month it will be fine liquor. 
7'o g-ive nexu ale the flavour of old. 

Take out llie bung, and put into the cask a hand- 
ful of pickled cucumbers; or a sliced Seville orange, 
and either mode will add an apparent six nionihs 
to the age of the ale. 

To protect malt liquors against tlie effects of elec- 
tncity. 

As positive electricitj'is nothing more than oxy- 
genous gas, which, when accumulated in conduc- 
tors by electrical action, affects all fluids (as con- 
ductori^), and enclosed fermented liquors among 
the rest, and as electrical action always takes place 
among the best conductors, so fermented liquors, 
whether in casks or bottles, may be protected from 
electrical action (vulgarly called thunder) by plac- 
ing on the casks, or over the bottles, pieces or 
rods of iron; and such have been found, by experi- 
ence, to serve as a suilicieut protection against this 
pernicious influence. 

To give beer a rich flavour. 

Put six sea-biscuits into a bag of hops, and put 
tliem into the cask. 

To preserve brexving uteiisih: 

In cleaning them before being put away, avoid 
the use of soap, or any greasy material, and use 
only a brush and scalding water, being particularly 
careful not to leave any yeast or fur on the sides. 

To prevent their being tainted, take wood ashes 
and boil them to a strong ley, which spread over 
the bottoms of tbe vessels scalding, and then with 
the broom scrub the sides and other parts. 

Or, take bay-salt, and spread it over the coolers, 
and strew some on their wet sides, turning in 
scalding water and scrubbing with a broom. 

Or, tiu'ow some stone-lime into water in the ves- 
sel, and scrub over the bottom and bides, washing 
ifterwards with clean water. 

To sweeten slinking or musty casks. 

Make a strong ley of ash, beech, or other hard 



I wood-ashes, and pour it, boiling hot, into the bung- 
hole, repeating it as often as there is occasion. 

Or, fill the cask with boiling water, and then 
put into it some pieces of unslaked stone-lime, 
keeping up the ebullition for h.alf an hour. Then 
bung it down, and let it remain until almost cold, 
when turn it out. 

Or, mix baj—salt with boiling water, and pour it 
into the cask, which bung down, and leave it to 
soak. 

Or, if the copper be provided with a dome, !?nd 
a steam pipe from its top, pass the steam into the 
casks. 

Or, imhead the cask, scrub it out, head it again; 
put some powdered charcoal into the bung-hole, 
and two quarts of a mixture of oil of vitriol and 
cold water. Then bung it ti;;ht, and roll and turn" 
tlie cask for some time. Afterwards wash it jvell, 
and drain it di"y. 

Or, take out the head, and brush the inside wilh 
oil of vitriol, afterwards wash it, then burn a slip 
of brown paper steeped in brimstone within the 
bung-hole, and stop it close for two hours, when 
it sliould be well waslied with hot water. 

Another method. — Mix half a pint of the sulphu- 
ric acid (not the diluted) in an open vessel, with 
a quart of water, and wliilst warm, put it into the 
cask, and roll it about in such a manner that the 
whole internal surface may be exposed to its ac- 
tion. The following day, add about one pound of 
chalk, and bung it up for three or four days, when 
it may be washed out with boiling water. 15y this 
process, a very musty cask may be rendered sweet. 

Frr sweetening musty bottles, it will be only 
necessary to rinse the inside with the diluted sul- 
phuric acid in the above-mentioned proportions. 
The addition of chalk, if it were immediately cork- 
ed, would burst the bottle, and if the cask be old, 
it would be advisable to let a little of tlie gas escape 
before bunging it. 

Another. — Collect fresh cow dung and dilute it 
with water, iu which four pounds of salt and one 
of common alum are dissolved. Let tbese be boiled 
together, and poured hot into the barrel, which 
must then be bunged and well shaken. This ope- 
ration should be performed several times, taking 
care to rinse the cask out every time, with clean 
water. 

Another. — If a cask, after the beer is drank out, 
be well stopped, to keep out the air, and the lees 
be sufl'ered to remain in it till used again, scald it 
well, taking care that tlie hoops be well driven on, 
before filling; but should the air get into an empty 
cask, it will contract an ill scent, notwithstanding 
the scalding; in which case a handful of hruised 
pepper, boiled in the water, will remove it, though 
the surest way is to take out the head of the cask, 
that it may be shaved; then burn it a little, and 
scald it for use; if this cannot be conveniently done, 
get some lime-stone, put about three pounds into 
a barrel (and in same proportion for larger or 
smaller vessels), put to it about six gallons of cold 
water, bung it uj), shake it about for some time, 
and afterwards scald it well. Or, in lieu of lime, 
match it well and scald it. Then the smell will be 
entirely removed. If the casks be new, dig holes 
in the earth, and lay them in, to about half their 
depth, with their bung-holes downwards, for a 
week. After which scald them well, and they will 
be ready for use. 

Another. — The process of charring fails only in 
the fire not being able to penetrate into the chasms 
or chinks of the cask, into which the coopers (to 
mend bad work) often insert strips of paper, or 
other substance, to make it water-tight, which in 
time become rotten and offensive; iu order to re* 



118 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOR. 



medy this, put into a cask containing a quantity of 
■water (say about 2 gallons in ahogsiiead) 1-lOtli of 
its weight of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), and let 
this be shaken for some time; tliis is to be poured 
out, the cask well washed, and then rinsed v/ilh a 
/ew gallons of lime-water. It is needless to saj', 
that it ought likewise to be washed out. 

Sulphur mixed with a little nitre, burnt in a 
closed vessel, and then the subsequent process of 
lime-water, &c. would do, and perhaps as well. 

The Uieory is, tliat sulphuric acid has the pro- 
perty, when used alone, of charring wood, and 
vhen diluted, has sufficient strength to destroy 
must, &c. with the additional advantage of entering 
into every crevice. The lime in solution seizes 
any particle of acid which the first wasliing might 
leave, and converts it into an insoluble inoffensive 
neutral salt, such as, if left in the cask, would not 
in the least injure the most delicate liquor. 
London coopers'' mode of su^eetenijig casks. 

It is their system to take out the head, place 
the cask over a brisk fire, and char the inside com- 
pleteh'. The head is then put in again, and. the 
cask, before used, is filled two or three times with 
hot liquor, bunged down and well shaken, before it 
is used again. 

Method of seasoning iiezv casks. 

Put the staves just cut and shaped, before they 
are worked into vessels, loose in a copper of cold 
■water, and let them heat gradually so that they 
must be well boiled, and in boiling take out a hand- 
bowl of water at a time, putting in fresh till all the 
redness is out of the liquor, and it becomss clear 
from a scum of filth that will arise from the sap so 
boiled out; also take care to turn tlie staves upside 
down, that all their parts may equally have the be- 
nefit of the hot wat^'. Observe also that in a dry, 
sultry summer, tlie sap is more strongly retained 
in the wood, than in a cool and moist one, and 
therefore must have the more boiling. Then, when 
the vessel is made, scald it twice with water and 
salt boiled together, a\Kl it may be readily filled 
"with strong beer without fearing any twang from 
the wood. 

To keep empty vessels sweet. 

An eminent London brewer is so curious in this 
respect, that he makes use of a wooden bung,whic]), 
\s soon as he has put into the vessel with some 
brown paper, he directly covers over with some 
wood ashes mixed with water, and puts it all about 
Ihe same, with as much care as if the cask had been 
Cull of strong beer, though it is done only to keep 
Ihe grounds sweet wliile they are so. And thus a 
Tessel may be preserved in sound order for nearly 
iialf a year. 

Ferme^itation by various means. 

As yeast is nothing more than fixed air combin- 
Pd with mucilage thrown to the top during fer- 
mentation, and the use of yeast consists merely in 
diftusing by its mtaus fixed air through tlie mix- 
ture to be fermented; so wiiatever contains fixeil 
air which can be communicated through the mass, 
■will cause good fermentation, wliether it be in 
brewing or bread making. Thus chemists have 
impregnated infusions with gas by an apparatus, 
and produced good beer, and a bottle, containing 
calcareous matter and oil of vitriol, immersed in 
the fluid, has caused eftectual fermentation, and 
produced all its results. 

First substitute for yeast. — Mix two quai-ts of 
water with wheat Hour, to the consistence of thick 
gruel, boil it gently for lialf an hour, and when al- 
most cold, stir into it half a pound of sugar and 
four spoonsful of good yeast. Put the whole into 
a large jug, or earthen vessel with a narrow top, 
and place it before the fire, so that it may by a mo- 
derate heat ferment. l"he fermentation will tlirow 



up a thin liquor, wliich pour off and thro'W awayj 
keep the remainder for use (in a cool place) in a 
bottle, or jug tied over. The same quantity of 
this, as of common yeast, will suffice to hake or 
brew with. Four spoonsful of this yeast will make 
a fresh quantity as before, and the stock may be al- 
ways kept up by fermenting the new with the re- 
mainder of the former quantity. 

Second substitute. — Take six quarts of soft Ava- 
ter and two handsful of wheaten meal or barley; 
stir the latter in the water before the mixture is 
placed over the fire, where it must boil till two- 
thirds are evaporated. When this decoction be- 
comes cool, incorporate with it, by means of a 
whisk, two drachms of salt of tartar, and 1 drachm 
of cream of tartar, previously mixed. The whole 
should be kept in a warm place. Thus a very 
strong yeast for brewing, distilling, and baking, 
may be obtained. For the last mentioned purpose, 
however, it ought to be diluted with pure water, 
and passed through a sieve, before it is kneaded 
with the dough, in order to deprive it of its alka- 
line taste. 

In countries where yeast is scarce, it is a com- 
mon practice to twist hazel twigs so as to he full of 
chinks, and then to steep them in ale-yeast during 
fermentation. The twigs are then hung up to dry, 
and at the next brewing they are put into the wort 
instead of yeast. In Italy the chips are frequently 
put into turbid wine, for the purpose of clearing it. 
this is effected in about twenty- four hours. 

Third substitute — Take one pound of fine flour, 
make it the tliickness of gruel with boiling water, 
add to it lialf a i)ound of raw sugar. Mix them 
well together Put three spoonsful of well purifi- 
ed yeast into a large vessel, upon which put the 
above ingredients: they will soon ferment violent- 
ly. Collect the yeast oft' the top and j)ut it into a 
brown small-neck pot, and cover it up from the air, 
keep it in a dry and warmish place; when used iu 
part, replace with flour made into a thin paste, and 
sugar in the former proportions: the above will be 
fit for use in five months, and no yeast is necessary 
except the first time. 

Fourth substilnte. — Boil flour and water to the 
c6nsistence of treacle, and when the mixture is cold 
saturate it with fixed air. Pour the mixture, thus 
saturated, into one or more large bottles or narrow 
mouthed jars; cover it over loosely with naper, 
and upon that lay a slate or board with a weight to 
keep it steady. Place the vessel in a situation 
where the thermometer will stand from 70 deg. to 
SO deg. and stir up tlie mixture two or three times 
in the course of 24 hours. In about two days, such 
a degi ee of fermentation will have taken place, as 
to give the mixture the appearance of yeast. With 
the yeast in this state, and before it has acquired a 
thoroughly vinous smell, mix the quantity of flour 
intended for bread, in the proportion of six pounds 
of flour to a quart of the jeasl, and a sufficient por- 
tion of warm water. Knead them well together ii» 
a proper vessel, and covering it with a cloth, let 
the dough stand for twelve hours, or till it appears 
to be sufficiently fermented in the foremention- 
ed degree of warmth. It is then to be formed 
into loaves and baked. The yeast would be more 
perfect if a decoction of malt were used instead of 
sim'ple water. 

Fifth sitl>stitjite. — A decoction of malt alone, 
without any addition, will produce a yeast proper 
enough for the purpose of brewing. This disco- 
very was made by Joseph Senyor, and he received 
for it a reward of 20l from the Society for Promot- 
ing Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce. The 
process is as follows: Procure three earthen or 
wooden vessels of different sizes and apertures, 
one capable of holding two quails, the oilier three 



BREWING. 



119 



or four, and the third five or six: boil a quarter of 
a peck of malt for about eight or ten minutes in 3 
pints of water; and when a quart is poured off from 
the grains, let it stand, in the first or smaller ves- 
sel, inacool place till not quite cold, but retaining 
tliat degree of hteat which the brewers usually find 
to be proper when they begin to work their liquor. 
Then remove the vessel iuto some warm situation 
near a fire, where the thermometer stands between 
70 and 80 deg. Fahrenheit, and there let it remain 
till the fermentation begins, which will be plainly 
perceived within 30 hours; add then two quarts 
more of a like decoction of malt, when cool as the 
first was, and mix the whole in the second or larger 
vessel, and stir it well in, which must be repeated 
in the usual way, as it rises in a common vat: then 
add a still greater quantity of tlie same decoction, 
to be worked in the largest vessel, which will pro- 
duce yeast enough for a brewing of 40 gallons. 

Sixth STibstitute. — Boil one pound of good flour, 
G quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and a little 
salt, in two gallons of water for one hour; when 
milk-warm, bottle it and cork it close: it will be 
fit for use in twenty-four hours. One pint of this 
■will make IS lbs. of bread. 

Seventh substitute. — To a pound of mashed po- 
tatoes (mealy ones are best) add two ounces of 
brown sugar, and two spoonsful of common yeast; 
the potatoes first to be pulped through a cullender, 
and mixed with warm water to a proper consist- 
ence. Thus a pound of potatoes will make a quart 
of good yeast. Keep it moderately warm while 
fermenting. 

Eighth substitute. — Tnfuse malt, and boil it as 
for beer; in the mean time, soak isinglass, sepa- 
rated to fibres, in small beer. Proportion the 
quantity of each, 1 ounce of isinglass to two quarts 
of beer. This would suffice for a hogshead of 
boiling wort, and the proportion may be diminish- 
jed or increased accordingly. After soaking five 
minutes, set the beer and isinglass on the fire, 
stirring till it nearly boils. Then turn it into a 
dish that will allow beating it up with a syllabub 
■whisk, to tlie consistence of yeast, and when al- 
most cold, put it to the wort. 

JVinth substitute. — Make a wort of the consist- 
ence of water gruel, with either rj'e or malt, ground 
very fine; put 5 gallons of it into a vessel capable 
of holdin_^ a few gallons more; dissolve 1 pound 
of leaven in a small portion of the wort, and add it 
to the remainder with 2^ pounds of fine ground 
malt; mix the whole by agitation for some minutes, 
and in half an hour add two large spoonsful of 
good yeast; incorporate it thoroughly with the mass, 
cover it close and let it remain undisturbed for forty 
eight hours In a moderate temperature; at the end 
of that period it will be found to be wholly con- 
verted into good yeast. It is requisite tiiat the 
rye and mall should be fine, and the leaven com- 
pletely dissolved before being put to the remaining 
■wort, which, previous to the yeast being added, 
should be at about 100 deg. Fahrenheit. — Trans- 
actioiis of the Economical Society of Petersburg . 
To preserve yeast. 
Common ale yeast may be kept fresh and fit for I 
use several months by the following method: Put 
a quantity of it into a close canvass bag, and gently 
squeeze out the moisture in a screw-press till the 
remaining matter be as firm and stiff' as clay. In I 
this state it may be close packed up in a tight cask I 
for securing it from the air; and will keep frt^sli, 
sound, and fit for use, for a long time. Tliis is a se- i 
cret that might be of great use to the brewers and 
distillers, who, though ihey employ very large quan- 
tities of yeast, seem to know no method of preserv- 
ing it or raising nurseries of it; for want of which i 
tfaey sustain a very considerable loss; whereas tlie I 



brewers in Flanders make a very great advantage 
of supplying the malt distillers of Holland with 
yeast, which is rendered lasting and fit for carriage 
by tliis easy expedient. 

Another inethocl. — Stir a quantity of yeast and 
work it well with a whisk, till it seems liquid 
and thin. Then get a large wooden dish or tub, 
clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay a thin layer 
of yeast thereon, turning the mouth tlownwards, 
to ])revent its getting dust, but so that the air maj 
come to it to dry it. When tliat coat or crust is 
sufficiently dried, lay on another, which serve in 
the same manner, and continue putting on others 
as they dry, till two or three inches tiiick, which 
will be useful on many occasions. But be sure 
the yeast in the vessel be dry before more be laid 
on. When wanted for use, cut a piece put, lay it 
in warm water, stir it togetlier, and it will be fit 
for use. If for brewing, take a handful of birch 
tied together, dip it into the yeast, and hang it to 
dry, taking cure to keep it free from dust. When 
the beer is fit to set to work, throw in one of these 
and it will work as well as fresh yeast. Whip it 
about in the wort and then let it lie. AVhen the 
beer works well take out the broom, dry it again, 
and it will do for the next brewing. 
To restore bad yeast. 
Mix with it a little flower, sugar, salt, brandy, ' 
and beer, and these will confer on it tlie qualities 
of good yeast. Good yeast may also be made by 
adding the same mixture to the grounds of ale. 
To make purl bitters. 
Take of Roman wormwood two dozen pounds, 
gentian root six pounds, calamus aromaticus (or the 
sweet flag root) two poimds, snake root one pound, 
horse radish one bunch, orange peel dried and 
juniper berries, each two pounds, seeds or kernels 
of Seville oranges cleaned and dried two pounds. 
Cut these, and bruise tliem, and put them into a 
clean butt, and start some mild brown or pale beer 
upon them, so as to fill up the vessel, about the be- 
ginning of November, which let stand till the next 
season. If a pound or two of galanga root is added 
to it, the composition will be better. 

Cautions in the use of foreign ingredients. 
In general, the beer should be racked off" first, , 
because the sediments and lees will not accord with 
the foreign substances. — Salt and alum in too large 
quantities induce staleness. The powder of soft 
stone, unburnt, should be avoided; loo many whites 
of eggs are apt to make the beer ropy. The intro- 
duction of cocculus indiciis confers a pernicious 
strength or headiness, which gratifies drunkards, 
but destroys the nervous system, and produces pal- 
sies and premature old age. It has been well re- 
marked, tliat the brewer that uses this slow, but 
certain poison, as a substitute for a due quantity of 
malt, ought to be boiled in his own copper. 

Bitters are in like manner pernicious in many 
states of the stomacii. W hen oyster shells are used, 
the bung should be left out to avoid bursting. 
Use of sugar in bre-mng. 
Families brewing their own malt liquor may use 
thirty-two pounds of brown sugar with two bushels 
of malt, which will produce 50 gallons of ale, as 
good in every respect as if made from six bushels 
of malt, effecting a saving of 3Is. 8d. l"he sugar 
is mixed witii the wort as it runs from the mash- 
tub. 

To close casks -without bungs. 
Some persons cover the bung-hole simply with 
brown paper, fastened at the sides, and covered 
witli clay: others iiave found a single piece of blad- 
der, well fixed at the edges, a complete and effica- 
cious substitute for Dungs. These methods at least 
prevent tlie bursting of the cask from changes of 



120 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To bottle porter, ale, &c. 

In the first place, the bottles should be clean, 
sweet, and diy, the corks sound and good, and the 
porter or ale fine. When the bottles are filled, if 
lor home consumption, they should not be corked 
till the day following; and if for exportation to a 
hot climate, they must stand tiu-ee days or more: 
if the liquor is new, it should be well corked 
and wired; but for a private family they may do 
vithout wirinj,, only they should be well packed 
in sawdust, and stand upright. But if some ripe 
are wanted, keep a few packed on their sides, so 
that the liquor may touch the corks — and this will 
Boon ripen, and make it fit for drinking. 

To ripen porter and ale, ifjlatxvhai bottled. 

When about to fill the botlles, put into each of 
them a tea-spoonfjl of raw brown sugar — or two 
tea-spoonsful of rice wheat — or six i-aisins. 
To remove tartness. 

Put a tea-spooiiful of carbonate of soda into a 
quartof tart beer, and it will be pleasant and whole- 
some. 

To bottle malt lienor. 

It should be ripe, and not too young. Cork loose 
at first, and afterwards firm. For a day or two, 
keep the bottles in cold water, or in a cold place; 
or throw some cold water over them. Steep the 
corks in scalding water, to make them more elas- 
tic. Lay the bottles on their sides. When it is 
desired that tlie liquor should ripen soon, keep the 
bottles in a warmer place. October beer should 
not be bottled tiil INlidsummer; nor March beer 
till Christmas, if the ale is flat, or stale, put 3 
horse-beans, or 3 raisins into each bottle, and to 
prevent the botlles l)ursting, make a hole in the 
middle of the cork with an awl; or put into each 
bottle, one or two pepper corns. If it is desired 
to ripen it quick, boil some coarse sugar in water, 
and when cold, fiirnient it witii yeast. Then put 
.T or 4 spoonsful of it, with two cloves, and if kept 
in a warm ydace, it will be ripe the next day. 
When the ale is sour, put into it a little syrup of 
capillaire, and ferment it with yeast; when settled, 
bottle it, and put a clove or two with a small lump 
of sugar into tacli bottle. It is also useful to put 'i 
or 3 pieces of cludk, or some powdered chalk, into 
the barrel before bottling. 

'J'o bottle table beer. 

As soon as a cask of table beer is received into 
the house, it is drawn oil" into quart stmie bottles, 
■with a lump of white sugar in each, and securely 
corked. In three days it becomes brisk, is equal 
in strength to table ale, remarkably pleasant, very 
■wholesome, and will keep many months, 
7'o render bottled beer ripe. 

The following method is employed in Paris, by 
some venders of bottled beer, to render it what they 
term ripe. — It is merely by adding to eacii bottle 
3 or 4 drops of yeast, and a lump of sugar, of the 
size of a large nutmeg. In the course of twenty- 
four hours, by this addition, stale or flat beer is 
rendered most agreeably brisk. In consequence 
of the fermentative process that takes place in it, a 
small deposit follows, and on this account the bot- 
tles sliould be kept in an erect position. By this 
means white wine may likewise be rendered brisk. 
To manage ale in the cellar. 

In general, nothing is more iiecessary tlian to 
keep it well stopped in a cool cellar, looking oc- 
casionally to see that there is no leakage, and to 
open the vent-holes, if any oozings appear between 
the staves of llie stacks: but connoisseurs in malt 
liquor may adopt some of the following means; 
leave the cock-hole of an upright cask, or the vent- 
hole of an horizontal one, open for 2 or 3 months; 
then rack off into another caslc with 1 or '2 pounds 
of tiew hops, and closely bung and stop down. 



Or, leave the vent-holes open a month; then stop 
and about a month before tapping, draw off a little, 
and mix it with 1 or 2 lbs. of new hops, ■which 
having poured into the cask, it is again closely stop- 
ped. 

Or, salt may be used with the hops, as it always 
gives beer the flavour of age. 

I'o keep hops for future use. 

Hops lose all their fine flavour by exposure to the 
air and damp. They should be kept in a dry close 
place, and lightly packed. 



TO MAKE CIDER, 

After the apples are gathered from tne trees, 
they are gi-ouiid into what is called pommage, 
either by means of a common pressing stone, with 
a circular trough, or by a cider mill, which is either 
driven by the hand, or by horse power. When the 
pulp is thus reduced to a great degree of fineness, 
it is conveyed to the cider press, where it is formed 
by pressure into a kind of cake, which is called 
the cheese. 

This is effected by placing clear sweet stravi^, or 
hair cloths, between the layers of pommage, till 
there is a pile of ten or twelve layers. This pile 
is then subjected to different degrees of pressure in 
succession, till all the must, or juice, is squeezed 
from the pommage. This juice, after being strained 
in a coarse hair-sieve, is tiien put either into open 
vats or close casks, and the pressed pulp is either 
thrown away, or made to yield a weak liquor call- 
ed washings. 

After the liquor has undergone tlie proper fer- 
mentation in these close vessels, wliicli may behest 
eilected in a temperature of from forty to si>ty de- 
grees of Falu'enlieit, and which may be known by 
its appearing tolerably clear, and having a vinous 
sharpness upon tlie tongue, any farther fermenta- 
tion must be stopped by racking oft" the pure parf 
into open vessels, exposed for a day or two in a 
cool situation. After this the liquor must again be 
put into casks, and kept in a cool place during win- 
ter. I'he projjer time for racking may always be 
known by theljrigVitness of the liquor, the discharge 
of ihe fixed air, and llie appearance of a thick crust 
formed of fragments of the reduced pulp. The li- 
quor should always be racked oft" anew, as often as 
a iiissing noise is lieard, or as it extinguishes a can- 
dle held to the bung-hole. 

When a favourable vinous fermentation has been 
obtained, nothing more is required than to fill up 
tile vessels evc'iy two or three weeks, to supply the 
waste by fermentation. On tlie beginning of iSlarch, 
the liijuor will be bright and pure, and fit for final 
I'acking, which should be done in fair weather. 
When llie botlles are filleil, they should be set by 
uncorked till morning, when the corks must be 
driven in tightly, secured by wire or twiue and 
melted rosin, or i.ny similar substance. 
To make Devonsliire cider. 

Prefer the bitter sweet apples, mixed wflh mild 
sour, in the proportion of one-third. Gather thera 
when ripe, and lay them in heaps in tlie orchard. 
Then take them to the crushing engine, made oi 
iron rollers at top and of stone beneath; after pass- 
ing tlirough wliich, they are received into large 
tubs or cives, and are then called pommage. They 
are afterwards laid on the vat in alternate layers of 
the pommage and clean straw, called reeds. They 
are then pressed, the juice running through a hair* 
sieve. After the cider is pressed out, it is put into 
hogsheads, where it remains for two or three days 
previously to fermenting. To stop the fermenta- 
lion, it is drawn off into a clean vessel; but if the 
feniientalion be very strong, two or tlu-ee cans of 



CIDER. 



121 



«ider are put into a clean vessel, and a match of 
brimstone burnt in it: it is then agitated, by -which 
the fermentation of that quantity is completely 
stopped. The vessel is then nearly filled, the fer- 
raentation of the Avhole is checked, and the cider 
becomes fine: but if, on the first operation, the fer- 
mentation is not checked, it is repeated till it is 
so, and continued from time to time till the cider 
is in a quiet state for drinking. 

Some persons, instead of deadening a small 
quantity with a match, as above directed, put from 
one to two pints of an article called stum (Ijought 
of the wine coopers) into each hogshead: but tiie 
system of racking as often as the fermentation ap- 
pears, is generally preferred by the cider manufac- 
turers of Devonshire. 

About six sacks, or twenty-four busViels of ap- 
ples, are used for a hogshead of sixt3-three gal- 
lons. During the process, if the weather is warm, 
it will be necessary to carry it on in the shade, in 
the open air, and by every means keep it as cool 
as possible. 

In nine months it will be in condition for bot- 
tling or drinking; if it continues thick, use some 
isinglass finings, and if at any time it ferments and 
tlireatens acidity, the cure is to rack it and leave 
the head and sediment. 

Scotch method. 

The apples are reduced to mucilage, by beating 
them in a stone trough (ons of those used at 
pumps tor watering horses) with pieces of ash- 
jjoles, used in the manner that potatoes are mashed. 
The press consists of a strong box, three feet 
square, and twenty inches deep, perforated on 
each side with small auger or gimblet holes. It 
is placed on a frame of v/ood, projecting three 
inches beyond the base of the box. A groove is 
cut in this projection one inch and a half wide, and 
one inch deep, to convey the juice Avhen pressed 
out of the box into a receiving pail. This opera- 
tion is performed in the following manner. The 
box is filled alternately with strata of fresh straw 
and mashed fruit, in the proportion of one inch of 
straw to two inches of mucilage: tliese are piled up 
a foot higher than the top of the box; and care is 
taken in packing the box itself, to keep the fruit 
and straw about one inch from the sides of the 
box, which allows the juice to escape freely. A 
considerable quantity of the liquor will run off 
vithout any pressure. This must be applied gra- 
dually at first, and increased regularly towards the 
conclusion. A box of the above dimensions will 
require about two tons weight to render the resi- 
duum completely free from juice. 

[The residuum is excellent food for pigs, and 
peculiarly acceptable to them.] 

The necessary pressure is obtained very easily, 
and in a powerful manner, by the compound lever 
pressing upon a lid or sink made of wood about 
two inches thick, and rendered sufficiently strong 
by two cross-bars. It is made to fit the opening 
of the box exactly; and as the levers force the lid 
down, they are occasionally slacked or taken off, 
and blocks of wood are placed on the top of the 
lid, to permit the levers to act, even after the lid 
has entered the box itself. Additional blocks are 
repeated, until the whole juice is extracted. The 
pi"essure may be increased more or less, by adding 
or diminishing the weight suspended at the extre- 
mity of the lever. 

The liquor thus obtained is allowed to stand un- 
disturbed twelve hours, in open vessels, to deposit 
sediment The pure juice is then put into clean 
casks, and placed in a proper situation to ferment, 
the temperature being from fifty-five to sixty de- 
grees. The fermentation will commence sooner 
or later, depending chiefly on the temperature of 



the apartment where the liquor is kept; in most 
cases, during the first three or four days; but 
sometimes it will require more than a week to be- 
gin this process. If the fermentation begins early 
and proceeds rapidly, the liquor must be racked 
off, and put into fresh casks in two or three days; 
but if this does not take place at an early period, 
and proceeds slowly, five or six days may elapse 
before it is racked. In general, it is necessary to 
rack the liquor at least twice. lf,notvi'ithstanding, 
the fermentation continues briskly, the racking 
must be repeated; otherwise the vinous fermenta- 
tion, by proceeding too far, may terminate in 
acetous fermenlation, wlien vinegar would be the 
result. 

In racking off the liquor it is necessai"}- to keep 
it fi'ee of sediment, and the scum or yeast produced 
by the fermentation. A supply of spare liquor 
must be reserved to fill up the barrels occasionally, 
while the fermentation continues. As soon as this 
ieases, tlie barrels should be bunged up closely, 
and the bungs covered with rosin, to prevent the 
admission of air. If the cider is weak, it should 
remain in the cask about nine months; if strong, 
twelve or eighteen raonttis is necessaiy before it 
shoidd be bottled. — Farmer''s J\las[. Vol. IX, 
To manage cider and perry. 

To fine and improve the fi:ivour of one hogs- 
head, take a gallon of good French brandy, with 
half an ounce of cochineal, one pound of alum, and 
three pounds of s.'Ugar-candy; bruise them all well 
in a mortar, and infuse them in the brandy for a 
day or two; then mix tlie whole with the cicler, and 
stop it close for five or six months. After which, 
if fine, bottle it off. 

Cider or perry, when bottled in hot weather, 
should be left a day or two uncorked, that \\. may 
get fiat; but if too tlat in the cask, and soon wanted 
for use, ])ut into each bottle a small lump or two 
of sugar-candy, four or five raisins of the sun, or a 
small piece of raw beef; any of v/iiich will mueh 
im])rove the liquor, and make it brisker. 

Cider should be well corked and waxed, and 
packed upright in a cool place. A few bottles 
may always be kept in a warmer place to ripen 
and be ready for use. 

To make cheap cider from raisins. 

Take fourteen pounds of raisins with the stalks; 
wash them out in four or I'ne waters, till the water 
remains clear; then put them into a clean cask 
with the head out, and put six gallons of good wa- 
ter upon them; after which cover it well up, and 
let it stand ten days. Then rack it off into another 
clean cask, which has a brass cock in it, and in 
four or five days time it will be fit for bottling. 
When it has been in the bottles seven or eight 
days, it will be fit for use. A little colouring 
should be added when putting into the cask the 
second time. The raisins may afterwards be used 
for vinegar. 

To make perry. 

Perry is made after the same manner as cider, 
only from pears, which must be quite dry. The 
best pears for this purpose are such as are least fit 
for eating, and tire redder they are tl>e better. 
Observations on cider. 

From the great diversity of soil and climate in 
the United States of America, and the almost end- 
less variety of its apples, it follows that much di- 
versity of taste and flavour will necessarily be 
found in the cider that is made from them. 

To make good cider the following general, but 
important rules should be attended to. They de- 
mand a little more trouble than the ordinary mode 
of collecting and mashing apples of all sorts, rot- 
ten and sound, sweet and sour, dirty and clean, 
from the tree and the soil, and the rest of the slov* 



122 



UNtS^ERSAL RECEIPT JJOOK. 



enly process usually employed; but in return they 
produce you a wholesome, jiigh flavoured, sound 
and palatable Tniuor, that alivays commmids an 
adequate price, instead of a solution of " villainous 
compouiKls," in a jioisonous and acid wash, tiiat 
110 mail in his senses will drink. The finest cider 
I ever tasted, was made of an equal portion o{ ripe, 
sound, pippin and crab apples, //acet^ cored, and 
pressed, Ike. with the utmost nicety. It was ecpial 
in flavour to any champagne that ever was made. 
General rides for making cider. 

1. Always choose perfectly ripe and sound fruit. 

'2. Pick the apples by hand. An active boj', 
with a bag slung over his shoulders, will sooa clear 
a tree. Apples that have lain any time on the soil, 
contract an earthy taste, which will always be 
found in the cider, 

3. After sweating, and before being ground, 
ivipe them dru, and if any are found bruised or 
rotten, put tliem in a heap by themselves, for an 
inferior cidtr to make vinegar. 

4. Always use hair cloths, instead of straw, to 
place between the layers of pommage. Tiie straw 
vhen heated, gives a disagreeable taste to the 
cider. 

5. As the cider runs from the press, let it pass 
through a hair sieve into a large open vessel, that 
will hold as much juice as can be expressed in one 
day. In a day, or sometimes less, the pumice will 
rise to the top, and in a short time grow very 
thick: when little white bubbles.break through it, 
draw off the liquor by a spigot, placed about three 
inches from the bottom, so that the lees may be 
left quietly behind. 

C. The cider must be drawn off into very clean 
sweet casks, an<l closely watched. The moment 
tlie white bulibles before mentioned are perceived 
rising at the buiig-liole, rack it again. When the 
fermentation is completely at an end, fill up the 
cask with cider, in all respects like that already 
contained in it, and bung it up tight; previous to 
ivhich a tumbler of siveei oil may be poured into 
the bung-hole. 

Sound, well made cider, that has been produced 
as described, and without any foreign mixtures 
excepting always that of good cogniac brandy, 
(whick added to it ia the proportion of one gallon 



to thirty, greatly improves it) is a pleasant, cool- 
ing and useful beverage. Wliile on the contrary, 
the acid and nasty wa^i that has passed through 
leaden pipes, and been otherwise carelessly and 
unskilfully made, is a perfect poison, producing 
colic, and not unfrequently, incurable obstruc- 
tions. 



TO MAKE PUNCH. 

For a gallon of punch take six fresh Sicili/ le- 
mons — rub the outsides of them well over with 
lumps of double refined loaf sugar, until they be- 
come quite yellowy throw the lumps into the bowl; 
roll your lemons well on a clean plate or table, cut 
them in half and squeeze them with a proper in- 
strument over the sugar; bruise the sugar, and con- 
tinue to add fresh portions of it, mixing the lemon 
pulp and juice well with it — nuich of the goodness 
of the punch will depend upon this. The quantity 
of sugar to be added, slioidd be great enough to 
render the mixture -without -water pleasant to the 
palate even of a cldld. When this is obtained, add 
gradually a small quantity of hot water, just enough 
to render the sirup thin enough to pass through 
the strainer — mix all well together, strain it, and 
try if there be sugar enough: if at all sour add 
more. When cold put in a little cold water, and 
equal quantities of the best cogniac brandy and old 
Jamaica rum, testing its strength by that infallible 
guide the palate. A glass of calf's foot jelly added 
to the sirup when warm, will not injure its quali- 
ties. 

The great secret of making good punch may be 
given in a few words: a great deal of fresh lemon 
juice — more than enough of good sugar — a fair 
proportion of brandy and rum, and very little 
water. 

To make nectar. 

Put half a pound of loaf sugar into a large porce- 
lain jug; add one jiint of cold water; bruise and stir 
the sugar till it is completely dissolved; pour over it 
half a bottle of hock and one bottle of madeira- 
mix them well together, and grate in half a nut- 
meg, with a drop or two of the essence of leinon^ 
set the jug in a bucket of ice for cue hour. 



WIHES. 



TO jMAKE BRITISH "WINES. 

The different processes in wine making, range 
themselves under the following heads: 

Gathering the fruit, picking the fruit, bruising 
the fruit, and vatting the fruit. 

Vinous fermentation, flavouring the wine, draw- 
ing the must, pressing the husk, casking the must. 

Spirituous fermentation, racking the wine, fining 
tlie wine, bottling and corking the wine. 
Gathering the' f nut. 

Fruit of every sort, says VlrCarnell, in his ex- 
cellent treatise on wine making, should be gather- 
ed in fine weaUier; those of the berry kind often 
appear ripe to the eye before they are really so, 
therefore it is requisite to taste them several times 
in order to ascertain that they are arrived at the 
ci'isis of maturity. If the fruit be not ripe, the wine 
will be harsh and hard, unpleasant to the palate. 



and more so the stomach; it will also require more 
spirit and saccharine, and take a longer time to be 
fit for the table. If the fruit be too ripe, the wine 
from it will be faint, low, and vapid; it will not be 
strong and generous; it will also i-equire more 
trouble, additional spirit, and expense. 
Picking. 

Detach the unripe and bad berries: the result, 
when the wine is drank, will be greatly superior 
in riciiness. Pick stalks from grapes, currants, and 
gooseberries, previously to their being placed in 
the V at. 

Jiruising. 

The quantity of fruit for making a vintage of do- 
mestic wine, is not so large but it ma)- be bruised 
in a tub, and from thence removed into the vat, or 
if the quantity be very small, it may be bruised in 
the vat. While the fruit is picking by one person. 



WINES, 



123 



another may bruise it, and as it is bruised, remove 
it into the vat. When Malaga or Smyrna raisins 
ore used, they are to be put into the vat with the 
water, to soak, and the following day taken out and 
briLsed, then retui-ned into the vat again. 
Vaiitji^. 
The first thing to be done is to place the guard 
against the tap-liole, to prevent the husks escaping 
ut the time the must or extract is drawn off. When 
all the fruit is in the vat the water should be added, 
and the contents stirred with the vat-staff, and left 
to macerate until the next day, when sugar, tartar, 
&c. diluted with some of the liquor, is to be put in- 
to the vat, and the whole agaiin stirred up. The 
place where the vat is situated should have a free 
circulation of air, and a temperature of not less than 
58 degrees. If the vinous fermentation do not take 
place in a reasonable time, the contents must be 
olten stirred, and the place made warmer. 
Vinous fevmentation. 
The time of a vinous fermentation commencing 
is always uncertain; it depends much on the qual- 
ity and quantity of the contents of the vat, on its 
local situation, on the season or weather, and most 
particularly on tlie greenness or ripeness of tlie 
fruit. To produce a medium vinous fermentation, 
the vats and contents ought to be placed in a tem- 
pei-atnre from 60 to 70 degrees. And if this is 
found not to produce fermentation in a short time, 
the temperature of tlie place must be made warm- 
er, and the vat often stirred witli the vat-stafl". 

The commencement of the vinous fermentation 
maybe known by plungingthe thermometer into tlie 
middle of the vat, for a minute, and when taken 
out, if a fermentation has commenced, the tempe- 
rature of the contents will be higher than at the 
place where the vats are situated. When the vi- 
llous fermentation begins, it is very conspicuous, 
and may be known by its taste, smell, appearance, 
and effects. Tlie contents will first gently rise, 
and swell with a slight movement and a little hiss- 
ing. A considerable motion will take place, and 
tlie contents will increase in heat and bulk, while 
a quantity of air escapes. 

It is impossible to lay down an exact time for a 
vinous fermentation; but for eighteen gallons, two 
or three days are generally sufficient for white 
wines; and red wines require a day or two more. 
Flavouring the -wine. 
When the vinous fermentation is about half over, 
Uie flavouring ingredients are to be put into the vat 
and well stirred into the contents. If almonds form 
a component part, the)'' are first to be beaten to a 
paste and mixed with a pint or two of the must. 
Nutmegs, cinnamon, ginger, seeds, &c. should, be- 
fore tliey are put into tlie vat, be reduced to pow- 
der, and mixed wiili some of tlie must. 
Drawing the must. 
W'lien the must in the vat gives,- by tasting, a 
strong vinous pungency, that is the period to slop 
the remaining slight fermentation by drawing off 
the must, in order to have strong and generous 
wine. 

A cock, or spicket and faucet is to be put into 
tJie tap-hole of llie vat, and the must drawn oil' and 
put into open vessels, there to remain till the pres- 
sing is finished. 

Pressing the httsk. 
As soon as all the must is drawn off from the 
vat, tlie husks are to be Dut into hair-bags, and the 
moulli of the bag is to be well fastened, then put 
into the press, and the whole pressed without de- 
lay. The must that is pressed out is to be mixed 
with the must that was drawn off from the vat. 
Many ways may be contrived for pressing a small 
vintage, for tliose persons who cannot afford to 
purchase a proper wine-press; but several wines do 



not require pressing: and may be strained through 
a jweet, clean, canvass bag, made with a poiutc»l 
end downwards. 

Casking the must. 
Each cask is to be filled within about an inch of 
the bung-hole, which should be covered over light- 
ly witii a flat piece of wood. The must now is 
perfectly cool and calm, and will remain in this 
state until the spirituous fermentation commences, 
Spintuous fermentation. 
The spirituous fermentation is essentially neces- 
sary to the clarification, goodness, and perfection 
of tlie wine. If the vinous fermentation has beea 
well conducted, and the wine cellar be not too cold, 
a spirituous fermentation will commence in a few 
days, and abate in six or twelve days, the time de- 
pending on circumstances, and on the quality and 
quantity of the wine. The brandy or spii-it assign- 
ed should at this time be put to the wine by pour- 
ing it in gently without disturbing the wine. The 
cask now, if not full, must be filled up and bunged 
with a wooden bung covered with a piece of new 
canvass larger than the bung. In about a month 
after the spirit has been added, the cask will again 
want filling up, this should be done with the over- 
])lus of the vintage, if not with some other good 
wine, and the cask re-bunged very tight. 

The cask sliould be pegged once a month or of- 
tencr to see if the wine be clear and not thick, and 
as soon as it is fine and bright, it must be racked 
oft' its lees. 

Raching the tvine. 
This is an operation highly requisite to the keep- 
ing wine good; to its purification, strength, colour, 
brilliancy, richness, and flavour, and is performed 
by drawing oft' the wine and leaving tlie lees in the 
cask. A siphon should be used: but if not, the 
cask should be tapped two or three days previous- 
I3'. It may be racked oft' into anollier cask, or into 
a vat or tub, and returned into the same cask again, 
after it has been -veil cleaned: and, if requisite, the 
cask may be slightly fumigated, immediately be-» 
fore the wine is returned into it. If the wine, oa 
being tasted, is found weak, a little spirit is to be 
given to it, the cask filled up and bunged tight. 

The racking oft' ought to be performed in tempe- 
rate weather, and as soon as the wines appear clear, 
a second racking will make them perfectly brilliajit, 
and if so, they will want no fining. 
Fining. 
Many wines require fining before they are rack- 
ed, and the operation of fining is not always neces- 
sary. Most wines, well made, do not want fining; 
this may be ascertained by drawing a little into a 
glass, from a peg-hole. 

One of the best finings is as follows: — Take one 
pound of fresh marsh-mallow roots, washed clean, 
and cut into small pieces; macerate them in two 
quarts of soft water, for twenty-four hours, then 
gently boil the liquor down to tln-ee half pints, 
strain it, and when cold mix with it half an ounce 
of pipe-clay or chalk in powder, then pour the mu- 
cilage into the cask, and stir up t'ne wine so as not 
to disturb the lees, and leave the vent-peg out for 
some days after. 

Or,, take boiled rice, two table-spoonsful, the 
white of one new egg, and half an ounce of burnt 
alum, in powder. Mix with a pint or more of the 
wine, then pour the mucilage into the cask, and 
stir the wine with a stout stick, but not to agitate 
the lees. 

Or, dissolve, in a gentle heat, half an ounce of 
isinglass in a pint or more of the wine, then mix 
with it half an ounce of chalk, in powder; wher 
the two are well incorporated, pour it into tha 
cask, and stir tlie wine, =0 as not to disturb tha 
lees. 



124 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



As soon as wines are clear and bright, after be- 
ing, fined down, they ought to be racked into a 
sweet and clean cask, the cask filled up and bung- 
ed tight. 

JiotlUn^ and cnrting. 

Fine clear weather is best ior bottling all sorts 
of wines, and mucli cleanliness is required. The 
first consideration, in bollling wines, is to examine 
and iL-e if the wines are in a proper state. The 
•wines should be fine and brilliant, or they will 
never brighten after. 

Tlie bottles must be all sound, cleanand dry, with 
plenty of good sound corks. 

The cork, is to be put in with the hand, and then 
driven well in with a Hat wooden mallet, the weight 
of which ought to be -a puKiul and a qnartp\ but 
however, not to exceed a pound and a half, for if 
tlie mallet be too light or too heavy it will not 
drive the cork \n propcrlij, and may break- the bot- 
tle. The corks must so completely fill up tiie neck 
of each bottle as io rumlev iht^m air tight, but leave 
a space of an inch between the wine and the cork. 

Wiien ail the wine is bottled, it is to be stored 
in a cool cellar, and on no account on the bottles' 
bottoms, but on their sides and in saw-dust. 
Apparatus fur -ivine making. 

To make .wine well, and with facility, persons 
should have all the requisite apparatus, namely, the 
vats, vat-staff, fruit-bruiser, strainer, liair-bags, 
•wine-press, thermometer, and bottling machine. 

.Mr CarneWs receipt for red gooseberrii ivine. 

Take cold soft water, 10 gallons,— red goose- 
berries, 11 gallons, and ferment. Now mix raw 
sugar, 16 lbs.— beet-root, sliced, 2 lbs. and red 
tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces. Afterwards put 
in sassafras chips, 1 lb. and brandy, 1 gallon, or 
less. This will make IS gallons. 

Another.— \Y\\Kn the weather is dry, gather 
gooseberries aljout llie time they are half ripe; pick 
them clean, put the quantity of a peck into a con- 
venient vessel, and bruise them with a piece of 
V'ood, taking as much care as jjossible to keei) the 
seeds whole. Now having put llic pulp into a can- 
vass bag, press out all the juice; ami to every gal- 
lon of tlie gooseberries add about three pounds of 
fine loaf sugar: mix the whole together by stirring 
it with a stiek, .and as soon as the sugar is quite 
dissolved, pour it into a convenient cask, whicli 
will hold it exactly. If the quantity be about 8 or 
9 gallons, let it stand a fortnight; if 20 gallons, 40 
days, and so on in proportion; taking care llie 
place you set it in be cool. After standing the 
proper time, draw it oft' from the lees, and put it 
into another clean vessel of equal size, or into the 
same, after pouring the lees out, and making it 
clean; let a cask often or twelve gallons stand for 
about three months, and twenty gallons for five 
montlis, after which it w ill be fit for bottling oft'. 
Red and xu/iite gooseberry ivine. 

Take cold soft water, i'gallons, red gooseberries, 
1 J gallons, white gooseberries, two gallons. Fer- 
ment. 

Now mix raw sugar, 5 lbs. honey, 1^ lbs. tartar, 
in fine powder, 1 oz. Afterwards put in bitter al- 
monds, two ounces, sweet-briar, one small handful, 
and brandy one gallon, or less. This will 'make 
six gallons. 

White gooseberry or champagne ivine. 

Take cold soft water, 4^ gallons, white gooseber- 
ries, 5 gallons. Ferment. 

Now mix refined sugar, 6 pounds, — lioney, -4 
pounds, ^white tartar, in fine powder, 1 oz. Put 
in orange and lemon peel, 1 oz. dry, or two ounces 
fresh; and add white brandy half a gallon. This 
will make nine gallons. 

Gooseberry xviiie of tlie best quality, resembling 
champagne. 

To each Scotch pint of lull ripe gooseberries. 



mashed, 'add 1 Scotch pint of water, milk warm, 
in which lias been d)%solved 1 lb. of single I'efined 
sugar: stir the whole well, and cover up the tub 
with a blanket, to preserve the heat generated by 
the fermentation of the ingredients: let them re- 
main in this vessel three (bns,stirring them twice 
or thrice a day: strain off the liquor through a 
sieve, afterwai-ds through a coarse linen cloth; 
put it into the cask: it will ferment without 
yeast. Let the cask be, keptfidl with some oflhb 
liijuor reserved for the purpose. It will ferment 
for ten days, sometimes for three weeks: when 
ceased, and only a hissing noise remains, draw oft* 
two or three bottles, according to the strength you 
wish it to have, from every 20 pint cask, and fill 
up the cask with brandy or whiskey; but brandy 13 
preferable. To make it very good, and that it may 
keep well, add as much sherry, together with a ^ 
oz. of isinglass dissolved in water to make it quite 
liquid; stii' the whole well. Hung the cask up, and 
surround the bung with clay; the closer it is bung- 
ed, the better; a fortnight after, if it be clear at 
top, taste it; if not sweet enough, add more sugar; 
22 lbs. is the just quantity in all for £0 pints of 
wine; leave the wine six months in the cask; but 
after being quite fine, tlie sooner it is bottled, the 
more it will sparkle and resemble champagne. 
The process should be carried on in a place wliere 
the heat is between 'iS deg. and 50 (\n'^. Fahren- 
heit. — X.B. Currant wine may be made in the 
same manner. 

'J'o mahe British champngne. 

Take gooseberries before tliey are ripe, crush 
them with a mallet in a wooden bowl, and to 
every gallon of fruit put a gallon of water; let it 
stand two days, stirring it well; squeeze the mix- 
ture well with the hands through a hop-sieve; then 
measure the liquor, and to every gallon put 3J lbs. 
of loaf-sugar; mix it well in the tub, and let it stand 
one day; ])ut a bottle of the best brandy into the 
cask; whieh leave open five or six weeks, taking oflf 
the scum as it rises; then make it up, and let it 
stand one year in the barrel before it is bottled. 

'I'he proportion of brandy to be used for this li- 
quor, is one pint to 7 gallons. 

Gooseberry and currant ivine inixed. 

Take cold soft water, gallons, — gooseberries, 
4 do. — currants, 4 do. Ferment. 

Mis, raw sugar, 12 lbs. — honey, .3 lbs. and tar- 
tar, in fine powder, lA oz. — bitter almonds, 1^ oz. 
Put in brandy, 6 pints or more. This will make 
12 gallons. 

• Another. — Take cold soft water, 5^ gallons, — 
gooseberries and currants, 4 gallons. Ferment. 
Then add — raw sugar, 12^ lbs. — tartar, in fine 
powder, 1 oz. — ginger, in powder, 3 ounces- 
sweet marjoram, lialfa handful, — British spirits, 1 
quart. This will make 9 gallons. 
Red cwvant ivine. 

Take cold soft water, II gallons — red currants, 
8 gallons, — raspberries, 1 quart. Ferment. Mix, 
raw sugar, 20 lbs. — beet-root, sliced, 2 lbs. and red 
tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces. Put in 1 nutmeg, 
in fine powder; add brandy, 1 gallon. This wili 
make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Put five quarts of currants and a pint 
of raspberries to every two gallons of water; let 
them soak a night; then squeeze and break them 
well. Next day rub them well through 'A fine sieve 
till the juice is expresse', washing the skins with 
some of tlie water; then, to every gallon, put four 
pounds of the best sugar, put it into your barrel, 
and set the bung lightly in. In two or three days 
add a bottle of good cogniac brandy to every four 
gallons; bung it close, but leave out the spiggot for 
a few days. It is very good in three years, better 
in four. 

Another, — Boil four gallons of spring water, and 



WINES. 



I2d 



stir into it 8 lbs. of honey; when thoroughly dis- 
solved, take it oft* the fire; then stir it ■well in order 
to raise the scum, which take clean off, and cool 
the liquor. 

When thus prepared, pres^ out the same quan- 
tity of the juice of red currants moderately ripe, 
•which being well strained, mix well with the wa- 
ter and honey, then put them into a cask, or a large 
earthen vessel, and let them stand to ferment for 
24 hours; then to every g-allon add '2 lbs. of fme su- 
gar, stir them well to i-aise the scum, and when 
well settled, take it oft", and add half an oz. of 
cream of tartar, wiih tlie whites of two or tlu-ee 
eggs, to refine it. Wiien the wine is well settled 
■jufl cleai', draw it oft" into a small vessel, or bottle 
it up, keeping it in a cool place. 

Of white currants a wine after the same manner 
may be made, that will equal in strength and plea- 
santness many sorts of white wine; but as for the 
l)lack or Dutch currants, they are seldom used, 
except for the preparation of medicinal wines. 

Another. — Gather the currants in dry A\eather, 
put them into a pan and bruise them witli a wooden 
pestle; let them stand about 20 hours, after which 
Btrain through a sieve; add 3 lbs. of fine powdered 
sugar to each 4 quarts of the liquor, and after shak- 
ing it well, fill the vessel, and put a quart of good 
brandy to every seven gallons. In 4 weeks, if it 
does not prove quite clear, draw it oft' into another 
vessel, and let it stand previous to bottling it olF 
about 10 days. 

Ited and ivldte atrrant -wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 12 gallons; white cur- 
rants, 4 do. ; red currants, 3 do. Ferment. Mix, 
raw sugar, 25 lbs. ; white tartar, in fine powder, 3 
oz. Put in sweet-briar leaves, 1 handful; lavender 
leaves, 1 do.; then add spirits, 2 quarts or more. 
This will make 18 gallons. 

Dutch currant wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 9 gallons; red currants, 
10 do. Ferment. INlix, raw sugar, 10 lbs.; beet- 
root, sliced, 2 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 2 oz. 
Put in bitter almonds, 1 oz.; ginger, in powder, 2 
oz. then add brandy, 1 quart. This will make 18 
gallons. i 

Dutch red currant ivine. 

Take of cold soft water, II gallons; red currants, 
8 do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 12 lbs. ; red 
tartar, in fine powder, 2 oz. Put in coriander 
seed, bruised, 2 oz. then add British spirit, 2 quarts. 
Tills wilj make 18 gallons. 

Jilixcd berries from a small garden. 

Take of cold soft water, 11 gallons; fruit, 8 do. 
Ferment. Mix, treacle, 14 or 16 lbs.; tartar, in 
powder, 1 oz. Put in ginger, in powdei", 4 oz.; 
liweet herbs, 2 handsful: then add spirits, 1 or 2 
quails. This will make 18 gallons. ^ 
To make compoimd -u-me. 

An excellent family wine may be made of equal 
parts of red, white, and black currants, ripe cher- 
ries, and raspberries, well bruised, and mixed with 
soft water, in the proportion of 4 lbs. of fruit to 1 
gallon of water. When strained and pressed, 3 
Ihs. of moist sugar are to be added to each gallon 
of liquid. After standing open for 3 days, during 
which it is to be stirred trequently, it is to be put 
into a barrel, and left for a fortnight to work, when 
a ninth part of brandy is to be added, and the whoie 
bunged down. In a few months it will he a most 
excellent wine. 

Other mixed f nuts of the berry kind. 

Take of cold soft water, 2 gallons; fruit, 18 do. 
Ferment. Honey, 6 lbs. ; tartar, in fine powder, 3 
oz. Put in peach leaves, 6 handsful: then add 
tirandy, I gallon. This will make 18 gallons, 
IVhlte currant wine. 

Take of cold soft watery 9 gc-vllous{ wlutecurrantSi 



9 do. ; white gooseberries, 1 do. Ferment. Mix, 
refined sugar, 25 lbs. ; white tartar, in powder, 1 
oz.; claiy seed, bruised, 2 oz. or clary flowers, or 
sorrel flowers, 4 handsful: then add white brandy, 
I gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons; 
white currants, 10 do. Ferment. Mix, refined 
sugar, 25 lbs.; white tartar, in fine powder, 1 oz. 
then add, bitter almonds, 2 oz. and white brandy, 
one gallon. This will make eighteen gallons. 
Dhick currant idne. 

Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons; black cur- 
rants, 6 do. ; strawberries, 3 do. Ferment. Mix, 
raw sugar, 25 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 6 oz. 
orange-thyme, 2 handsful: then add brandy, 2 or 3 
quarts. This will make eighteen gallons.' 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 12 gallons: 
black currants, 5 do.; white or red currants, or 
both, 3 do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 30 lbs. or 
less; red tartar, in fine powder, 5 oz.; ginger in 
l)owder, 5 oz.; then add brandy, 1 gallon, or less. 
This will make 18 gallons. 

Another, very fine. — To every three quarts of 
juice, add as much of cold water, and to every 
three quarts of the mixture, add three pounds of 
good, pure sugar. Put it into a cask, reserving 
some to fill up. Set the cask in a warm dry room, 
and it will ferment of itself When this is over, 
skim off" the refuse, and fill up with what you have 
reserved for this purpose. AVhen it has done work- 
ing, add three quarts of brandy to forty quarts of 
the wine. Bung it up close for ten months, then 
bottle it. The thick part may be separated by 
straining, and the percolating liquor be bottled 
also. Keep it for twelve months. 
Stratvberry idne. 

Take of cold soft water, 7 gallons; cider, 6 do.; 
strawberries, 6 do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 
16 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz. ; the peel 
and juice of 2 lemons: then add braudy, 2 or 3 
quarts. This will make IS gallons. 

Aiwther. — Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons; 
strawberries, 9 do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 
25 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz.; 2 lemons 
and 2 oranges, peel and juice: then add brandy, 1 
gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 
Raspberry -wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 6 gallons; cider, 4 do. 
raspberries, 6 do.; any other fruit, 3 do. Ferment. 
Mix, raw sugar, 18 or 20 lbs.; i-ed tartar, in fine 
powder, 3 oz.; orange and lemon peel, 2 oz. dry, 
or 4 cz. fresh: then add brandy, 3 quarts. This 
will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Gather the raspbemes when ripe, 
husk them and bruise them; then strain them 
through a bag into jars or other vessels. Boil the 
juice, and to every gallon put a pound and a half 
of lump sugar. Now add whites of eggs, and let 
the whole boil for fifteen minutes; skimming it as 
the froth rises. When cool and settled, decant 
the liquor into a cask, adding yeast to make it fer- 
ment. When this has taken place, add a pint of 
white wine, or half a pint of proof spirit to each 
gallon contained in the cask, and hang a bag in it 
containing an ounce of bruised mace. In three 
months, if kept in a cool place, it will be very ex- 
cellent and delicious wine. 

Mdberry -wine. 

On a dry day, gather mulberries, when they are 
just changed from redness to a shining black; 
spread them thinly on a fine cloth, or on a floor or 
table, for twenty-four hours; and then press them. 
Boil a gallon of water v\ ilh each gallon of juicej 
putting to every gallon of water an ounce of cinua* 
mon bark, and six ounces of sugar candy finely 
powdered. Skim and strain the water, when it is 
itdsen off and settled, and put to it the mulberry 



126 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



juice. Now add to every gallon of the mixture a 
pint of white or Hhenish wine. Let the wliole 
stand in a cask to ferment, for five or six days. 
When settled, draw it off into bottles, and keep it 
cool. 

EldiT-berry loine. 

Take of cold soft water, 16 gallons, Malaga 
raisins, 50 lbs. eldei-ben-ies, 4 gallons, red tartar, 
in fine powder, 4 ounces. Alix gi.iger, in pow- 
der, 5 ounces, cinnamon, cloves, and mace, of 
each 2 ounces, 3 oranges or lemons, peel and juice. 
Then add 1 gallon of brandy. This will make 18 
gallons. 

Another. — In making elder juice, let the berries 
be fully ripe, and all the stalks be clean picked 
from them; then, have a press ready for drawing 
off all the juice, and four hair cloths, somewhat 
broader than the press: lay one la^'er above another, 
having a hair cloth betwixt every layei-, which must 
be laid very thin, and pressed a little at first, and 
then more till the press be drawn as close as possi- 
ble. Now take out the berries, and press all the 
rest in the like manner: then take the pressed ber- 
ries, break out all the lumps, put them into an open 
headed vessel, and add as much liquor as will just 
cover them. Let them infuse so for seven or eight 
days; then put the best juice into a cask proper for 
it to be kept in, and add one gallon of malt spirits, 
not rectified, to every twenty gallons of eliler juice, 
■which will effectually preserve it from becoming 
sour for two years at least. 

Another. — Pick the berries when quite ripe, put 
them into a stone jar, and set them iu an oven, or 
in a kettle of boiling water, till the jar is hot 
through, then take them out, and strain them 
through a coarse sieve: squeeze tlie berries, and 
put the juice into a clean kettle. To every quart 
of juice put a pound of fine Lisbon sugar: let it boil, 
and skim it well. When clear and fine, pour it 
into a cask. To every ten gallons of wine add an 
ounce of isinglass dissolved in cider, and six whole 
eggs. Close it up, let it stand six months, and 
then bottle it. 

To make an imitation of Cypni^ -wine. 

To ten gallons of water put ten quarts of the 
juice of white elder berries, pressed gently from 
the berries by the hand, and passed through a sieve, 
without bruising the seeds: add to every gallon of 
liquor three pounds of Lisbon sugar, and to the 
■whole quantity two ounces of ginger sliced, and 
one ounce of cloves. Bnil this nearly an liour, 
taking off the scum as it rises, and pour the ■whole 
to cool, in an open tub, and work it with ale yeast, 
spread upon a toast of bread for three days. Then 
turn it into a vessel'that will just hold it, adding 
about a pound and a half of bruised raisins, to lie 
in the liquor till drawn off, which should not be 
done till the wine is fine. 

This wine is so much like the fine rich wine 
brought from the island of Cyprus, in colour, taste, 
and flavour, that it has deceived the best judges. 
To make elder-Jiower -wine; or IP.ngiish Frontiniac. 

Boil eighteen pounds of white powdered sugar 
in six gallons of water, and two whites of eggs well 
beaten; skim it, and put in a quarter of a peck of 
elder-flowers; do not keep them on the fire. When 
cool, stir it, and put in six spoonsful of lemon juice, 
four or five of yeast, and beat well into the liquor; 
stir it well every day; put six pounds of the best 
raisins, stoned, into the cask, and tun the wine. 
Stop it close, and bottle i.i six months. When 
■well kept, this wine will pass very well for Fron- 
tiniac. 

Another. — To six gallons of spring water put six 
pounds of sun raisins cut small, and a dozen pounds 
of fine sugar; boil the whole together for about an 
Iwur and a half. When the liquor is cold, put 



half a peck of ripe elder-flowers in, with about a 
gill of lemon juice, and half the quantity of ale 
yeast. Cover it up, and after standing three days, 
strain it off. Now jjour it into a cask that is quite 
clean and that will hold it with ease. When this 
is done, put a quart of Rhenish wine to every gal- 
lon; let the bung be slightly put^ iu for twelve or 
fourteen days; tlien stop it down fast, and put it m 
a cool dry place for four or five months, till it be 
quite settled and fine; then bottle it oft". 
Lrdtation of port ivine. 

Take 6 gallons of good cider; 1^ gallons of port 
wine; 1^ gallons of the juice of elder-berries; 3 
quarts of brandy; 1 J ounces of cochineal. This 
will produce O^ gallons. 

Bruise the cochineal very fine, and put it with 
the brandy into a stone bottle; let it remain at least 
a fortnight, shaking it well once or twice every 
day; at the end of tiiat time procure the cider, and 
])ut five gallons into a nine gallon cask, add to it 
the elder juice and port wine, then the brandy and 
cochineal. Take the remaining gallon of cider to 
rinse out the bottle that contained the brandy; and 
lastly, pour it into the cask, and bung it down 
very close, and in six weeks it will be ready for 
bottling. 

It is, however, sometimes not quite so fine as 
could be wished: in that case add two ounces of 
isinglass, and let it remain a fortnight or three 
weeks longer, when it will be perfectly briglit: it 
would not be amiss, perhaps, if the quantity of 
isinglass mentioned was added to the wine before 
it was bunged down; it will tend very considera- 
bly to improve the body of the wine. If it should 
not appear sufficiently rough flavoured, add an 
ounce, or an ounce and a half of roclie-alum, which 
will, in most cases, impart a sufficient astringenc}'. 

After it is bottled, it must be packed in as cool 
a place as possible. It will be fit for using in a few 
months; but if kept longer, it will be greatly im- 
proved. 

IVortleberry or bilberry tvine. 

Take of cold soft water, 6 gallons; cider, 6 gal- 
lons; berries, 8 gallons. Ferment. Mix, raw su- 
gar, 20 pounds; tartar, in fine powder, 4 ounces. 
Add ginger, in powder, 4 ounces; lavender and 
rosemary leaves, 2 handsful; rum or British spirits, 
1 gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 
Birch tuine. 

The season for obtaining the liquor from birch- 
trees, is in the latter end of February, cur the be- 
ginning of March, before the leaves shoot out, and 
as the sap begins to rise. If the time is delayed, 
the juice will grow too thick to be drawn out. It 
should be as tliin and clear as possible. The me- 
thod of procuring the juice is by boring holes in 
the trunk of the tree, and fixing faucets of elder; 
but care should be taken not to tap it in too many 
places at once, for fear of injuring the tree. If the 
tree is large, it may be bored in five or six places 
at once, and bottles are to be placed under tiie 
aperture for the sap to flow into. When four or 
five gallons have been extracted from different trees, 
cork the bottles very close, and wax them till the 
wine is to be made, which should be as soon as 
possible after the sap has been obtained. Boil the 
sap, and put four pounds of loaf sugar to every gal- 
ion, also the peel of a lemon cut thin; then boil it 
again for nearly an hour, skimming it all the time. 
Now pour it into a tub, and as soon as it is almost 
cold, work it with a toast spread with yeast, and 
let it stand five or six days, stirring it twice of 
three times each day. Into a cask that will contain 
it, put a lighted brimstone match, stop it up till 
the matcli isburnt out, and then pour the wine into 
it, putting the bung lightly in, till it has done 
working. Bung it very close for about three mouths. 



WINES. 



m 



and then bottle it. It will be good in a week after 
it is put into the bottles. 

Another. — Birch wine may be made with raisins, 
in the following manner: To a hogshead of birch- 
water, take four hundred of Malaga raisins: pick 
them clean from the stalks, and cut them small. 
Then boil the birch liquor for one hour at least, 
skim it well, and let it stand till it be no warmer 
than milk. Then put in the raisins, and let it 
stand close covered, stirring it well four or five 
times every day. Boil all the stalks in a gallon or 
two of birch liquor, which, when added to the other, 
■when almost cold, will give it an agreeable rough- 
ness. Let it stand ten days, then put it in a cool 
cellar, and when it has done hissing in the vessel, 
stop it up close. It must stand at least nine months 
before it is bottled. 

Blackberry -tvine. 

Having procrured berries that are fully ripe, put 
them into a large vessel of wood or stone, with a 
cock in it, and pour upon them as much boiling 
■water as will cover them. As soon as the heat wijll 
permit the hand to be put into the vessel, bruise 
them well till all the berries are broken. Then 
let them stand covered till the berries begin to rise 
towards the top, which they usually do in three or 
four days. Then draw oii' the clear into another 
vessel, and add to every ten quarts of this liquor, a 
pound of sugar. Stir it well and let it stand to 
work a week or ten days, in another vessel like 
the first. Then draw it otf at the cock through a 
jelly-bag into a large vessel. Take four ounces 
of isinglass, and lay it to steep twelve hours in a 
pint of white wine. The next morning, boil it upon 
a slow fire till it is all dissolved. Then take a gal- 
lon of blackberr^'-juice, put in the dissolved isin- 
glass, give them a boil together, and pour all into 
the vessel. Let it stand a few days to purge and 
settle, then draw it oft", and keep it in a cool place. 
Spruce vjine. 

For this, which is only a superior soi-t of white 
S|)ruce beer, proceed as follows: To every gallon 
of water take Ih lbs. of honey, and ^ lb. of fine 
starch. The starch however, previously to its be- 
ing blended with the honej^ liquor or syrup, must 
be reduced to a transparent jelly, bj' boiling it 
with part of the water purposely preserved. A 
quarter of a pound of essence of spruce may be used 
to 6 gallons of water; and the same method may be 
pursued in working, fining and bottling, as directed 
for white spruce beer. 

Spruce is a wholesome and pleasant drink to 
those who are used to it, and persons soon become 
habituated. It contains a vast quantity of fixed air, 
which is extremely bracing; and the use of this 
liquor is particularly to be recommended to such 
as are troubled with scorbutic humours, or have 
the gravel. It is chiefly used in summer. 
Jiiniber-ben^y -wine. 

Take of cold solt water, 18 gallons, Malaga or 
Sm)Tna raisins, 35 lbs. juniper berries, 9 quarts, 
red tartar, 4 ounces, wormwood and sweet marjo- 
ram, each 2 handsful, British spirit, two quarts or 
more. Ferriient for ten or twelve days. This will 
make eighteen gallons. 

To make damson loine. 

Take of cold soft water, H gallons, damsons, 8 
gallons. Ferment. Mix raw sugar, 30 lbs. red 
tartar, in fine powder, 6 oz. Add brandy, 1 gal- 
lon. This will make 18 gallons. 

" When the must," says Mr Carnell, " has fer- 
mented 2 days, (during which time it should be 
stirred up two or three times,) take out of the vat 
about 2 or 3 quarts of the stones, and break them 
and the kernels, and then return them into the vat 
again." 

dnother method. — Take a considerable quantiV 



of damsons and common plums inclining to ripe- 
ness: slit them in halves, so that the stones maybe 
taken out, then mash them gentlv, and add a little 
water and honey. Add to eveiy gallon of the pulp 
a gallon of spring water, with a few bay leaves and 
cloves; boil the mixture, 'and add as mueh sugar as 
will sweeten it; skim oft" the froths, and let itcooL 
Now press the fruit, squeezing out the liquid part; 
strain all through a fine strainer, and put the wa- 
ter and juice together in a cask. Having allowed 
the whole to stand and ferment for three or four 
days, fine it with white sugar, flour and white of 
eggs; draw it off" into bottles, then cork it well. 
In twelve days it will be ripe, and will taste like 
weak Port, having the flavour of Canary. 

Jlnotlier. — Gather the damsons on a dry day, 
weigh them, and then bruise them. Put them into 
a stein that has a cock in it, and to every 8 pounds 
of fruit add a gallon of water. Eoil the water, 
skim it and put it scalding hot to the fruit. Let 
it stand two days, then draw it off" .and put it into a 
vessel, and to every gallon of liquor put 'ii lbs. of 
fine sugar. Fill up the vessel, and stop ft close, 
and the longer it stands the better. Keep it for 
twelve months in the vessel, and then bottle, put- 
ting a lump of sugar into^very bottle. The small 
damson is the best for this purpose. 
Cherry -urine. 

Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons — cherries, 10 
gallons — Ferment. Mix raw sugar, 30 lbs. — red 
tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz. Add brandy, 2 or 3 
quarts. This will make 18 gallons. '' 

Two days after the cherries have been in the 
vat, Mr Carnell says, we should take out about 3 
quarts of the cherry stones, break them and the 
kernels, and return them into thd vat again. 

Another. — Take cherries nearly ripe, of any red 
sort, clear them of the stalks and stones, then put 
them into a glazed earthen vessel, antl squeeze 
them to a pulp. Let tliem remain in this state fop 
12 hours to ferment; then put them into a linen 
cloth not too fine and press out the juice with a 
pressing board, or any other convenient instru- 
ment. Now let the liquor- stand till the scum ri- 
ses, and with a ladle or skimmer take it clean off"; 
then pour the clear part, by inclination, into a cask, 
where, to each gallon, put a pound of the best loaf 
sugar, and let it ferment for seven or eight days. 
Draw it oft', when clear, into lesser casks or bot- 
tles; keep it cool, as other wines, and in ten or 
twelve days it will be ripe. 

'J'o make J\Iorella tvine. 

Cleanse from the stalks sixty pounds of Morella 
cherries, and bruise them so that the stones shall 
be broken. Now press out the juice and mix it 
with 6 gallons of sherrj' wine, and 4 gallons of 
warm water. Having grossly powdereii separate 
ounces of nutmeg, cinnamon, and mace, hang them 
separately, in slnall bags, in the cask containing 
the mixture. Bung it down and in a kw weeks it 
will become a deliciously flavoured wine. 
To make peach luine. 

Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, refined st>- 
gar, 25 lbs. honey, 6 lbs. white tartar, in fine pow- 
der, 2 ounces, peaches, sixty or eighty in num- 
ber. Ferment. Then aild 2 gallons of brandy. 
This will make 18 gallons. 

The first division is to be put into the vat, and 
the day after, before the peaches are put in, take 
the stones from them, break them and the kernels, 
then put them and the pulp into tlie vat, and pto 
ceed with tlie general process. 

I'each and apricot nvine. 

Take peaches, nectarines, &c. pare tliem, and 
take the stones out; then slice tUem thin, and pouF 
over tliem from a gallon to two gallons of water, 
and a quiu-t of while wine. Place the whole on a. 



128 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



fire to simmer j^ently for a considerable time, till 
the sliced fruit becomes soft; pour oft' the li(|uid 
part into another vessel containing more peaches 
tliat have been sliced but not heated; let them stand 
for twelve hours, then pour out the liquid part, and 
press what remains through a fine hair bas^. Let 
the whole be now put into a cask to ferment; add 
of loaf sugar, a ])ound and a half to each gallon. 
Boil well, an ounce of beaten cloves in a quart of 
■white wine, and add it to the above. 

Apricot wine may be made by only bruising; the 
fruit and pouring the hot lic;uor over it. This 
■wine iloes not re(iaire so luutli sweetening. To 
give it a curious fiavour, boil an ounce of mace, and 
lialf an ounce of luitmegs, in a (luart of wiiilc wine; 
and when the wine is fermenting pour the liquid 
in hot. Jn about twenty days, or a month these 
vines will be lit for bottling. 

^ijiricot -ivine. 

Boil together three pounds of sugar, and three 
quarts of water; and skim it well. Put in six 
pounds of apricots paretl and stoned, and let ihuni 
boil till they become tender. Then lake them up, 
and when the liquor is cold, bottle it. After tak- 
ing out the apricots, let the liquor be b;iiled with 
a sprig of ilowtred clary. The apricots will make 
marmalade, and be very good for present use. 
Lc!iio7i -ivine. 

Pare off the rinds of 6 large lemons, cut them, 
and squeeze out the juice. Steep the rinds in tiie 
juice, and put to it a quart of brandy. Let it 
stand three days in an earthen pot close; sto[)ped; 
then squeeze 6 more, and mix with it '2 quarts of 
spring water, and as much sugar as will sweeten 
the whole. IfJoii the water, lemons, and sugar to- 
gether, and let it stand till it be cool. Then add a 
<;uart of white wine, and the other lemons and 
brandy; mix them together, and run it througli a 
iiannel bag into some vessel. Let it stand three 
months and then bottle it oft". Cork the bottles 
well; keep it cool, and it will be fit to drink in a 
month or six weeks. 

Jlnotker. — Pare 5 dozen of>lemons very thin, put 
the jieels into 5 quarts of Trencli brandy, and let 
Uiem stand 14 days. Then make the juice into a 
syrup with 3 lbs. of single refined sugar, and when 
the peels are ready, boil 15 gallons of water with 
40 lbs. of single refined sugar for half an hour. 
Then put it into a tub, and when cool add to it one 
spoonful of yeast, and let it work two days. Tlien 
tun it, and put in the brandy, peels, and syrup. 
Stir them all together, and close uj> tiie cask. Let 
it stand three monllis, then bottle it, and it will be 
as pale and as line as any citron water. 
Jipple -n'ldtc 'Mine. 

Take of cold soft water, '2 gallons, apples, well 
bruised, 3 bushels, honey, 10 lbs., white tartar, i} 
ounces, 1 nutmeg, in powder, rum, 3 quarts. This 
will make 18 gslions. 

To nuike apple ivine. 

To eveiy gallon of ai)ple juice, immediately as it 
comes from the press, add ii lbs. of common loaf 
sugar; boil it as long as any scum rises, then strain 
it tlirough a sieve, and let it cool; add some good 
yeast, and stir it well; let it work in the tub for 
two or three weeks, or till the head begins to flat- 
ten, then skim oif the head, draw it clear oil', and 
tun it. When made a year, rack it oil', and line it 
with isinglass; then add ^ a pint of the best recti- 
fied spirit of wine, or a pint of French brandy, to 
eveiy S gallons. : ^ 

Jipple red ivine. 

Take of cold soft water, 2 gallons, apples, 
■well bruised, 3 bushels, i'erment. Mix, raw 
sugar, 15 lbs., beet root, sliced, 4 lbs., red tartar, 
is fine powder, 3 oz. then add ginger, in powder, 



.3 oz. rosemary and lavender leaves, of each tw"9 
handsful, British spirits, 2 quarts. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

To make quince tmne. 
Gather the quinces wJien pretty ripe, in a dry 
day, rub oft" the down with a linen cloth, then lay 
them in hay or straw for ten days, to perspire. 
Now cut them in (piarters, take out the cores, and 
bruise them well in a mashing tub with a woo<lei> 
pestle. Squeeze out the liquid part, by pressing 
them in a hair bag, by degrees, in a cider pi'ess; 
strain this liquor through a line sieve, then warm it 
gently over a fire, and skim it, but do not suft'erit 
to boil. Now Sfu-inkle into it some loaf-sugar re- 
duced to powder; then in a gallon of water and a 
(|M:u't of white wine, boil 12 or 14 large quinces 
thinly sliced; add 2 lbs. of fine sugar and then 
strain olf the litjuid part, and mingle it with the na- 
tural juice of tlie (]uinces; put this into a cask (not 
to fill it) and mix tliem well together; then let it 
stand to settle; i)ut in 2 or 3 whites of eggs, then 
draw it off. If it be not sweet enough, add more 
sugar, and a quart of the best INLtlmsey. To make 
( it still better boil a ^ lb. of stoned raisins, and ^an 
oz. of cinnamon bark in a quart of the liquor, to 
the consumiition of a third part, and straining it, 
put it into the cask when the wine is fermenting. 

Anotlter. — Take 20 large quinces, gathered when 
they are dry and full ripe. "Wipe them clean with 
a coarse cloth, and grate them with a large grater or 
rasp as near the cores as possible; but do not touch 
the cores, lioil a gallon of spring-water, throw in 
the quinces, and let them boil softly about a ^ of 
an hour. Then strain them well into an earthen 
pan, on 2 lbs. of double refined sugar. Pare tlie 
peel of 2 large lemons, throw them in, and squeeze 
the juice through a sieve. Stir it about till it be 
very cool, and then toast a thin bit of bread very 
brown, rub a little yeast on it, and let the whole 
stand close covered 24 hours. Then take out the 
toast and lemon, put the wine in a cask, keep it 
three months, and then bottle it. If a 20 gallon 
cask is w anted, let it stand six months before bot- 
tling it; and remember, when straining the quinces, 
to wring them hard in a coarse cloth. 
Orange laine. 
Put 12 lbs. of powdered sugar, with the whites 
of 8 or 10 eggs well beaten, into 6 gallons of spring 
water; boil them J of an hour; when cold, put into 
it 6 spoonsful of yeast and the juice of 12 lemons, 
which being pared, must stand with 2 lbs. of white 
sugar in a tankard, and in the morning skim oS^the 
top, and then put it into the water; add the juice 
and rinds of 50 oranges, but not the white or pithy 
parts of the rinds; let it work all together 2 days 
and 2 nights; then add two quarts of Rhenish or 
white wine, and put it into the vessel. 

^inother. — To gallons of water put 15 lbs. of 
soft sugar; before it boils, add the whites of sis 
eggs w ell beaten, and take oft' the scum as it rises; 
boil it 2 an hour: when cool, add the juice of 50 
oranges, and two-thirds of the peels cut very thin; 
and immerse a toast covered with yeast. In -a 
month alter it has been in the cask, add a jiint of 
brandy and 2 quarts of Rhenish wine: it will be fit 
to bottle in 3 or 4 months, but it should remain in 
bottle for 12 months before it is drank. 

To make orange and lemo7i ivine. 
Orange wine of a superior quality may be made 
with 2 lbs. ot clayed sugar, and 1 lb. of Malaga 
raisins to each gallon of water, to which add the 
juice and peel of an orange, and to every 100 gal- 
lons of liuid 4 lbs. of Rhenish tartar. 

Two lbs. of honey, 1 lb. of Malaga raisins, with 
the juice and peel of a large orange, to every gal- 
lon of water, and 4 lbs. of lihenisii tartar to eveiy 



WTNES. 



129 



100 gallons fluid, will make an orange wine still 
superior to the former. Sleep and press the fruit, 
and expend the tartar in setting, raising, and cut- 
ting the backs: the orange peel and juice are not 
to be added until tlie last stage of fermentation, 
that is on cutting: they will possess infinitely more 
viuosity than tlie ordinaxy orange wines, indeed, 
nearly as much as the juice of the vine. 

Lemon wine, equally delicious, may be made in 
a similar manner: both these wines, as they ad- 
vance in age, lose much of the grosser part of the 
orange and lemon flavour; one approaches the ber- 
gamot and the otlier a fine citron, and become fra- 
^-rant as they advauv-e in years: they will be more 
improved if treacle be used, divested of its colour 
and burnt flavour. 

To make parsnip ivine. 

To 12 pounds of parsnips, cut in slices, add 4 
gallons of water; boil them till they become quite 
soft. Squeeze the liquor well out of them, run it 
through a sieve, and add to every gallon 3 pounds 
of loaf sugar. Boil the whole three quarters of an 
hour, and when it is nearly cold, add a little yeast. 
Let it stand for ten days in a tub, stirring it every 
day from tlie bottom, then put it into a cask for 
twelve months: as it works over, fill it up every 
day. 

Wliite mead -wine. 

Take of cold softwatei-, seventeen gallons, white 
currants, six quarts. Ferment. Mix honey, 30 
pounds, white tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz. Add 
balm and sweetbriar, each 2 handsful, white bran- 
dy, 1 gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 
Red mead or 7netheglin vjitie. 

Take of cold soft water, 17 gallons, red currants, 
6 quarts, black currants, 2 quarts. Feraient. Mix, 
honey, 25 pounds, beet root, sliced, 1 pound, red 
tartar, in fine powder, 4 oz. Add cinnamon, in 
powder, 2 oz. brandy, 1 gallon. This will make 
18 gallons. 

Another. — Fermented mead is made in the pro- 

Eortion of I pound of honey to 3 pints of water; or 
y boiling over a moderate fire, to two-thirds of 
the quantity, three parts water and one part honey. 
The liquor is then skimmed and casked, care * e- 
ing taken to keep the cask full while fermenting. 
During the fermenting process, the cask is left un- 
stopped and exposed to the sun, or in a warm 
room, until the working cease. The cask is then 
bunged, and a few months in the cellar renders it 
fit for use. Mead is rendered more vinous and 
pleasant, by the addition of cut raisins, or other 
fruits, boiled after the rale of half a pound of rai- 
sins to six pounds of honey, with a toasted crust of 
bread, an ounce of salt of tartar in a glass of bran- 
dy, being added to the liquor when casked; to 
which some add five or six drops of the essence of 
cinnamon; others, pieces of lemon peel with vari- 
ous syrups. 

Walnut meadiuinc. 
To every gallon of water put three pounds and a 
half of honey, and boil them together three quar- 
ters of an hour. Then to every gallon of liquor put 
about two dozen of walnut leaves, pour the boiling 
liquor upon them, and let tliem stand all night. 
Then take out the leaves, put in a spoonful of 
yeast, and let it work for two or three days. Then 
make it up, and after it has stood for three months, 
bottle it. 

To make American honey ivine. 
Put a quantity of the comb, from which honey 
has been drained, in a tub, and add a barrel of ci- 
der, immediately from the press; this mixture stir, 
and leave for one night. It is then strained before 
*ermentation; and honey added, until the specific 
gravity of the liquor is sufficient to bear an egg. It 
is then put into a barrel; and after the fermentation 
K 



is commenced, the cask is filled every day, for 
three or four days, that the froth may work out of 
the bung-hole. When the fermentation moderates, 
put the bung in loosely, lest stopping it tight might 
cause the cask to burst. At the end of five or six 
weeks, the liquor is to be drawn off into a tub, and 
the whites of eight eggs, well beaten up, with a ^ 
pint of clean sand, are to be put into it: then .ndd .i 
gallon of cider spirit; and after mixing the whole 
togetlier, return it into the cask, which is to be 
well cleaned, bunged tight, and placed in a proper 
situation for racking off, when fine. In the month 
of April following, draw it off into kegs, for use; ■ 
and it will be equal to almost any foreign wine. 
CoivsUp red xtxine. 
Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, Smyrna rai- 
sins, 40 lbs. Ferment. Mix beet-root, sliced, 3 
pounds, red tartar, in fine powder, 2 oz. Add 
cowslip-flowers, 14 lbs. cloves and mace, in pow- 
der, 1 oz. Brandy, 1 gallon. This will make 18 
gallons. 

Cowslip white wine. 
Take of cold soft water, IS gallons, Malaga rai- 
sins, 35 lbs. white tartar, in fine powdei', 2 oz. 
Ferment. Mix cowslip-flowers, 16 lbs. Add 
white brandy, 1 gallon. This will make 18 gal- 
lons. 

Cowslip mead 
Is made in this manner: to 15 gallons of water 
put 30 pounds of honey, and boil it till 1 gallon be 
wasted. Skim it, take it off the fire, and have rea- 
dy 16 lemons cut in halves. Take a gallon of the 
liquor, and put it to the lemons. Put the rest of the 
liquor into a tub, with 7 pecks of cowslips, and let 
them stand all night. Then put in the liquor with 
the lemons, 8 spoonsful of new yeast, and a hand- 
ful of sweetbriar. Stir them all well together, and 
let it work three or four daj's. Then strain it, put 
it into the cask, and after it has stood six munt}is, 
b6ttle it off. 

Cider white wine. 
Take of cold soft water, 2 quarts, cider, 9 gal- 
lons, honey, 8 pounds, white tartar, in fine powder, 
2 oz. Ferment. Mix cinnamon, cloves, and. 
mace, 2 oz. Add rum, ^ gallon. This will make 
9 gallons. 

Cider red wine. 
Take of cold soft water, Sgallons, cider, 16 gal- 
lons, honey, 10 pounds. Ferment. Add raw sugar, 
4 pounds, beet-root, sliced, 4 pounds, red tai'tai", ia 
fine powder, 6 oz. Mix sweet maijoram anJ 
sweetbriar, 3 handsful, rum, 1 gallon. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

Cider wine. 
Take of cold soft water, 4 gidlons, cidei, 15 gal- 
lons, honey, 12 pounds, tartar, in fine powder, 2 
ounces. Ferment. Mix ginger, in powder, 6 
ounces, sage and mint, 2 handsful. Add British 
spirits, one gallon. This will make eighteen gal- 
lons. 

Grape red ivine. 
Take of cold soft water, 5 gallons, black or red 
grapes, 40 pounds. Ferment. Mix cider, 9 gal- 
lons, raw sugar, 20 pounds, barberiy leaves, 3 
handsful, beet-root sliced, 2 pounds, red tartar, ia 
powder, 4 ounces. Add white elder flowers, 6 
handsful, or sassafras chips, 4 pounds, brandy, 1 
gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water 6 gallons, 
grapes, of any colour, 30 pounds. Ferment. Mix 
treacle, 10 pounds, beet-root sliced, 1^ pounds, 
red tartar, in powder, 2 ounces. Add rosemaiy 
leaves, 2 handsful, brandy, ^ a gallon. This will 
make 9 gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 8 gallons, 
grapes, of any sort, 100 pounds. Ferment. Mix 
raw sugar, 20 pounds, beet-root sliced, 4 pounds. 



130 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



barberry leaves, 4 handsful, red tartar, in powder, 
6 ounces. Add coriander seed, bruised, '2 ounces, 
brandy, 6 quarts. This will make 18 gallons. 
Grape -white -wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 13 gallons, white grapes, 
50 pounds. Ferment. Mix refined sugar, 25 
pounds, white tartar, in powder, 3 ounces. Add 
clary si.d bruised, 3 ounces, or clary flowers, 
handsful, rum, 1 gallon. This will make IS 
gallons. 

To make raisin -wine equal to sherry. 

Let the raisins be well washed and picked from 
the stalks; to every pound thus prepared and chop- 
ped, add 1 quart of water which has been boiled 
and has stood till it is cold. Let the whole stand 
in the vessel for a month, being frequently stirred. 
Now let the raisins be taken from the cask, and let 
tlie liquor be closely stopped in tlie vessel. In the 
course of a month, let it be racked into another 
■vessel, leaving all the sediment beliind, which 
must be repeated till it becomes fine, when add to 
every ten gallons six pounds of fine sugar, and one 
dozen of Seville oranges, the rinds being pared 
very thin, and infused in two quarts of brandy, 
which should be added to the liquor at its last 
racking. Let the whole stand three months in tlie 
cask, when it will be fit for bottling; it should re- 
main in the bottle for a twelve-month. 

To give it the flavour of Madeira, when it is in 
the cask, put in a couple of green citrons, and let 
them remain till the wine is bottled. 

Aiiother raisiii -wine. — Put two hundred weight 
of raisins, with the stalks, into a hogshead, and fill 
it almost with spring water; let them steep for 
about twelve days, frequently stirring, and after 
pouring off the juice, dress tiie raisins and mash 
them. The whole should then be put together into 
a very clean vessel that will exactly contain it. It 
will hiss for some time, during which it sliould not 
be stirred; but when the noise ceases, it must be 
stopped close, and stand for about six or seven 
months: and then, if it proves fine and clear, rack 
it off into another vessel of the same size. Stop 
it up, and let it remain for twelve or fourteen weeks 
longer, then bottle it off. If it should not prove 
clear, fine it down with three ounces of isinglass, 
and a quarter of a pound of sugar-candy, dissolved 
in some of the wine. 

Another grape -wine. — To every gallon of ripe 
grapes j)ut a gallon of soft water, bruise the grapes, 
let them stand a week without stirring, and draw 
the liquor off fine; to every gallon of wine put three 
pounds of lump sugar; put the whole into a vessel, 
but do not stop it till it has done hissing, then 
stop it close, and in six mouths it will be fit for 
bottling. 

A better wine, though smaller in quantity, W'ill 
be made by leaving out the water, and diminish- 
ing the quantity of sugar. Water is necessaiy, 
only where the juice is so scanty, or so thick, as 
in cowslip, balm, or black currant wine, that it 
could not be used without it. 

Claret rdne-leafiuine. 

Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, claret vine- 
leaves, 3 pecks. Ferment. Mix raw sugar, 50 
pounds, barberrier, 6 quarts, red tartar, in fine 
powder, 8 ounces. Add roses, 6 or 8 handsful, 
sassafras chips, 3 pounds. Brandy, one gallon or 
more. 

Mr Carnell directs to macerate the vine-leaves 
in the water 3 days, and then proceed with the ge- 
neral process. This will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 11 gallons, 
claret vine leaves, 2 pecks. Ferment. Add cider, 
9 gallons, raw sugar, 30 pounds, red tartar, in pow- 
der, 6 ounces. Mix cinnamon, in powder, 2 oz. 
2 nutmegs in powder, brandy, 1 giUlou. This 
will make 18 gallons. 



To make -wine from frosted potatoes. 

Wine of considerable quality may be made from 
frosted potatoes, if not so much frosted as to have 
become soft and waterish. The potatoes must be 
crushed or bruised; a wooden mallet answers the 
purpose. If a plank of wood is made hollow, in 
the manner of a shallow bowl, they may be bruised 
with a mallet, or put into a cider press. A Win- 
chester bushel must have 10 gallons of water, 
prepared by boiling it mixed with ^ lb. of hops 
and ^ lb. of common white ginger.' This water, 
after having boiled for about halfan hour, must be 
poured upon the bruised potatoes, into a tub or 
vessel suited to the quantity to be made. After 
standing in this mixed state for three days, yeast 
must be added, to ferment the liquor. When the 
fermentation has subsided, the liquor must be 
drawn off, as pure as possible, into a cask, adding 
half a pound of raw sugar for every gallon. After 
it has remained in the cask for three montlis, it will 
be ready for use. Farmer''s JHair. 
Ginger luine, excellent. 

Put into a very nice boiler ten gallons of water, 
fifteen pounds of lump sugar, with the whites of six 
or eight eggs, well beaten and strained.; mix all 
well while cold; when the liquor boils skim it well, 
put in half a pound of common white ginger, bruis- 
ed, and boil it twenty minutes. Have ready the 
rinds (cut very thin) of seven lemons, and pour 
tlie hot liquor on them; when cool put it into your 
cask, with two spoonsful of yeast; put a quart of 
the warm liquor to two ounces of isinglass shav- 
ings, 7uhisk it well three or four times, and put all 
into the barrel. Next day stop it up, in three 
weeks bottle it, and in three months it will be a 
delicious and safe liquor. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 19 gallons; 
Malaga raisins, 50 lbs.; white tartar, in powder, 
4 oz. Ferment. Mix ginger, in powder or bruised, 
20 oz.; 18 lemons, peel and juice. Add brandy, 3 
quarts, or more. Tiiis will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take 20 quarts of water; 5 lbs. of 
sugar; 3 os. of wiiite ginger; 1 oz. of stick liquorice. 
Boil them well together; wlien it is cold put a lit- 
tle new yeast upon it, but not too much; then put 
it into the barrel for 10 days, and after that bottle 
it putting a lump of white sugar into every bottle. 

Another. — To seven gallons of water put 19 
pounds of clayed sugar, and boil it for halfan hour^ 
taking off the scum as it rises; then take a small 
quantity of the liquor, and add to it 9 ounces of the 
best ginger bruised. Now put it all together, and 
when nearly cold, chop 9 pounds of raisins very 
small, and put them into a nine gallon cask (beer 
measure,) with one ounce of isinglass. Slice 4 le- 
mons into the cask, taking out all the seeds, awl 
pour the liquor over them, with half a pint of fresh 
yeast. Leave it imstopped for three weeks, and ia 
about three months it will be fit for bottling. 

There will be one gallon of the sugar and water 
more than the cask will hold at first: this must be 
kept to fill up, as the liquor works oft', as it \i ne- 
cessary that the cask should be kept full, till it has 
done working. I'he raisins should be 2-3ds Mala- 
ga, and l-3d Muscadel. Spring and autumn are 
tlie best seasons for making this wine. 

7'o make koumiss, a Tartar luine. 

Take of fresh mare's railk any quantity; add to 
it a sixth part of water, and pour the mixture into 
a wooden vessel. Use as a ferment an eighth part 
of skimmed milk; but at any future preparation a 
small portion of old koumiss will answer better. 
Cover the vessel with a thick cloth, and set it in a 
place of moderate warmth; leaving it at rest for 
twenty-four hours: at the end of which time the 
milk will become sour, and a thick substance will 
be gathered on its top. Now, with a churn sta;fF, 
beat it tU tlie tliick siibstance above-meutionedbe 



WINES. 



131 



blended intimately "with the subjacent fluid. In 
this situation, leave it at rest for twenty-four hours 
more; after which, pour it into a higher and nar- 
rower vessel, resembling a churn, where the agi- 
tation must he repeated as before, till the liquor 
appears to be perfectly homogeneous. In this state 
it is called koumiss; of which the taste ought to 
have been a pleasant mixture of sweet and sour. 
Agitation must be employed every time before it 
is used. This wine is cooling and antiseptic. 
Sometimes aromatic herbs, as Angelica, are infused 
in the liquor daring fermentation. 

'I'o make rhubarb ivine. 
Take of sliced rhubarb, 2^ oz. — lesser caj"damom 
seeds, bruised and husked,^ oz.; saffron 2 drachms; 
Spanish white wine, 2 pints; proof spirit, ^ pint. 
Digest for ten days, and strain. This is a warm, 
cordiiil, laxative medicine. It is used chiefly in 
weakness of the stomach and bowels, and some 
kinds of loosenesses,' for evacuating the oftending 
matter, and strengthening the tone of the viscera. 
It may be given in doses of from half a spoonfid to 
tlu-ee ar four spoonsful or more, according to the 
circumstances of the disorder, and tiie strength of 
tlie pafient. 

To make sage wine. 
■ Bjil 26 quarts of spring water a quarter of an 
hour, and when it is blood warm, put 25 pounds 
of Jdalaga raisins, picked, rubbed, and slired, into 
it, with almost l\alf a bushel of red sage shred, and 
a porringer of ale yeast; stir all well together, and 
let it stand in a tub, covered warm, six or seven 
days, stirring it once a day; then strain it oft', and 
put it in a runlet. Let it work three or four days, 
and then slop it up; when it has stood six or seven 
days, put in a quart or two of Malaga sack; and 
when it is fine bottle it. 

To make gilliflotver ruine. 
To three gallons of water put 6 pounds of the 
Dest powder sugar, bnil t!ie sugar and water toge- 
ther for the space of half an hour, keep Skimming 
it as the scum rises; let it stand to cool, beat up 
three ounces of syrup of betony with a large spoon- 
ful of ale yeast, put it into the liquor, and brew it 
well together; then having a peck of gilliflowers, 
cut from the stalks, put them into the liquor, let 
tiiem infuse and worjc together three days, covered 
with a cloth; strain it, and put it into a cask, and 
let it settle for three or four weeks; then bottle it. 
To make turnip -wine. 
Pare and slice a number of turnips, put thenl 
into a cider press, and press out all the juice. To 
every gallon of the juice, add three pounds of lump 
sugar; have a vessel ready large enough to hold the 
juice, and put half a pint of brandy to every gallon. 
Pour in the juice and lay something over the bung for 
a week, -to see if it works; if it does, do not bung it 
down till it has done working; then stop it close 
for three months, and draw it oft' into another ves- 
sel. When it is fine, bottle it off". 

This is an excellent wine for gouty habits, and 
is mucii recommended in such cases in lieu of any 
other winci , 

Rose toine. 
Take a well glazed earthen vessel, and put into 
it 3 gallons of rose-water drawn with a cold still. 
Pot into that a sufficient quantity of rose leaves, 
cover it close, and set it for an hour in a kettle or 
copper of hot water, to take out the whole strengtii 
and tinctui'e of the roses; and when it is cold, press 
the rose leaves hard into the liquor, and steep fresh 
ones in it, repeating it till the liquor has got the 
full strength of the roses. 'I'o every gallon of li- 
quor put threepoundsof loaf sugar, and stiritwell, 
that it may melt and disperse in ever)' part. Then 
put it into a cask, or other convenient vessel, to 
ferment, and put into it a piece of bread toasted 1 



hard, and covered with yeast. Let it stand about 
thirty days, when it will be ripe and have a fine 
flavour, having the whole strength and scent of the 
roses in it; and it may be gi-eatly improved by ad- 
ding to it wine and spices. By this method of in- 
fusion, wine of carnations, clove gilliflowers, vio- 
lets, primroses, or any other flower, having a cu* 
rious scent, may be made. 

Barley ivine. 
Boil half a pound of fresh barley in 3 waters, 
and save 3 pints of the last water. Mix it with a 
quart of white wine, half a pint of borage water, 
as much clary water, a little red rose-water, the 
juice of 5 or 6 lemons, 3 quarters of a pound of 
fine sugar, and the thin yellow rind of a lemon. 
Mix all these well together, run it through a strain- 
er, and bottle it. It is pleasant in hot weather, anj' 
vely good in fevers. 

English Jig ivine. 
Take the large blue figs, when pretty ripe, and 
steep them in white wine, having made some slits 
in tliem, that they may swell and'gather in the sub- 
stance of the wine. Then slice some other figs, 
and let them simmer over a fire in water until thev 
are reduced to a kind of pulp. Then strain out th'u 
water, pressing the pulp hard, and pour it as hot 
as possible on the figs that are imbrewed in the 
wine. Let the quantities be nearly equal, but the 
water somewhat more than the wine and figs. Let ■ 
them stand 24 hours, masli them well together, 
and draw oft' what will run without squeezing. 
Then press the rest, and if not sweet enough, add 
a sufficient quantity of sugar, to make it so. Let it 
ferment, and add to it a little iioney and sugar- 
candy; then fine it with whites of eggs and a little 
isinglass, and draw it ofl'for use. 
Sycamore ivint'. 
Bodl 2 gallons of the sap half an hour, and then 
add to it 4 pounds of fine powdered sugar. Beat 
the wiiites of 3 eggs to froth, and mix tliem with 
the liquor; but take care that it is not too hot, a3 
tliat will poacli tl»e eggs. Skim it well, and boil 
it half an hour. Then strain it through a hair sieve, 
and let it stand till next day. Then pour it clean 
from tiie sediment, put half apintof yeast to eveiy 
twelve gallons, and cover it close up with blankets. 
Then put it into the barrel, and leave the bung- 
hole open till it has done wo'rking. Then close it 
up well, and after it has stood 2 months, bottle it. 
The fifth part of the sugar must be loaf; and if 
raisins are liked, they will be a great addition to 
the wine. 

Balm iviiie. 
Take 40 pounds of sugar and 9 gallons of water, 
boil it gently for 2 hours, skim it well, and put it 
into a tub to cool. Take 2 pounds and a half of 
the tops of balm, bruise them, and put them into a 
barrel, with a little new yeast; and when the liquor 
is cold, pour it on the balm. Stir it well together, 
and let it stand 24 hours, stirring it often. Then 
close it up, and let it stand 6 week?. Then rack 
it oft" and put a lump of sugar into every bottle. 
Cork it well, and it will be better the second year 
than the first. 

To make scurvy-grass wine 
Scurvy-grass, or spoonwort, is a very sovereign 
medicinal lierb, appropriated chiefly to the health 
of invalids. 

Take the best large scurvj'-grass tops and leaves, 
in May, June, or July, bruise them well in a stona 
mortar, then put them in a well glazed earthen 
vessel, and sprinkle them over with some powder 
of crystal of tartar, then smear them witli virgin 
honey, and being covered close, let it stand 2i 
hours; then set water over a gentle fire, putting to 
every gallon 3 pints of honey, and when the scum 
rises, take it oif, and let it cool; tlicn put the 



132 



U?mTERSAL Ri:CEIPT BOOK. 



stamped scurw g;rass into a harrel, and ^our the 
liquor to it, setting the vessel conveniently end- 
ways, witli a tap at'the hottom. When it has been 
infused 24 hours, draw ofl'tlie liquor, strongly press 
the juice and moisture out oFtlie herb into the bar- 
rel or vessel, and put the liquor up again; then put 
a little new )-«ast to it, and suffer it to ferment 3 
days, covering the place of the bung or vent with 
a piece of bread spread over with mustard seed, 
downward, in a cool place, and let it continue till 
it is line and drinks brisk; then draw off the finest 
part, leaving only Ihe dregs behind: afterwards add 
more herbs, and ferinent'it with whites of eggs, 
Hour, and fixed nitre, verjuice, or the juice of green 
grapes, if they are to be had; to which add 6 pounds 
of the syrup of mustard, all mixed and v/ell beaten 
together, to refine it down, and it will drink brisk, 
but is not very pleasant; being here inserted among 
artificial wines rather for the sake of health, tlian 
for the delightfulness of its taste. 

To make cheap and loholesoTtte claret. 

Take a quart of fine draft Devonshire cider, 
and an equal quantity of good port. Mix them, 
and shake them. Bottle them, and let them stand 
for a month. The best judge will not be able to 
distinguish them from good Bordeaux. 
To make dry -wine. 

Those who like a dry wine, should put into the 
vat, at the commencement of the vinous fermenta- 
tion, an ounce or two of calcined gypsum, in fine 
jiowder. 

MANAGEMENT OF BRITISH 'WINES. 

I'o guard against unripe fruit. 
If the season proves bad so that some fruits are 
not sufficiently ripe, immediately after the vinous 
fermentation, and the 7mst of such fmit is put into 
the cask, it is to be rolled two or three times a 
tiay, for a week or two. A spirituous fermentation 
■will soon commence, the bung of the cask must 
then be taken out, and the hole covered with a bit 
cf light wood or canvass, and as any scum arises, 
it should be taken away. When the scum disap- 

J)ears, fill up the cask, and hung it up. But a vent- 
lole must be left open for a week. 

To keep and manage tvines. 

Wines will diminish, theretore the cask must be 
kept filled up with some of the same wine, or sonie 
other that is as good or better. 

They must at all times be kept in a cool cellar, 
if not, they will ferment. If wines are kept in a 
■vann cellar, an acetous fermentation will soon 
commence, and the result consequently will be vi- 
negar. The more a wine frets and ferments, the 
more it parts with its strength and goodness: when 
■wines are found to work improperly in the cellar, 
the vent-peg must be taken out for a week or two. 

If any wine ferments, after being perfected, draw 
off a quart and boil it, and pour it hot into tlie cask, 
add a pint or a quart of brandy, and bung up a day 
or two after. 

Or, draw off the wine, and fumigate the cask, 
■with one ounce of flower of brimstone, and half an 
ounce of cinnamon, in powder. Mix the two to- 
gether, and tie them up in a rag. Turn the bung- 
hole of the cask downwards, place the rag under 
the bung-hole, and set fire to it, so that the gas 
ascends mto the cask. As soon as it is burnt out, 
£11 up the cask with wine, and biing it up tight. 
To sweeten afoul cask. 

Set fire to a pound or more of broken charcoal, 
J>ut it into the cask and immediately till up the 
task with boiling water. After this, roll the cask 
<>nce or twice a day for a week; then pour out the 
charcoal and water, wash out the cask with clean 
«old water, and expose it to the external air for 
konte days. 



To improve poor wines. 

Poor wines may be improved by being racked 
off, and returned into the cask again; and then put- 
ting into the wine about a pound of jar or box rai- 
sins, bruised, and a quart of brandy. 

Or, put to the wine two pounds of honeV, and a 
pint or two of brandy. The honey and brandy to 
be first mixed together. 

Or, draw off tln-ee or four quarts of such wine 
and fill tlie cask up with strong wine. 

To improve -wine ivhen lowering- or decaying. 

Take one ounce of roche-alum, make it into 
powder; then draw out four gallons of wine, mix 
the powder with it, and beat it well for half an 
hour; then fill up the cask, and when fine (which 
will be in a week's time or little more), bottle xt 
off. This will make it drink fine and brisk. 
To restore fat wines. 

Flat wines may be restored by one pound of 
jar raisins, one pound of honey, and half a pint of 
spirit of wine, beaten up in a mortar with some of 
the wine, and then the contents ])Ut into the cask. 
To remove a musty or disagreeable taste in -witie. 

Put into the cask three or four sticks of charcoal, 
and bung up the cask tight. In a month after take 
them out. — Or, cut two ripe medlars, put them in 
a gauze bag, and suspend them from the bung hole 
into the wine, and bung up the cask air-light. A 
month after take them out, and bung up the cask 
again. Or, mix half a pound of bruised mustard- 
seed, with a pint or more of brandy, and stir it up 
in the wine; and two days after bung up the cask. 

Jlnother mode. — At the finisli of the process, when 
the brandy or spirit is put to the wine, it is par- 
ticularly recommended that a quarter of an ounce 
of crystal camphor, in the lump, be dropped into 
the bung-hole of each eighteen gallons oi wine. 

Another mode. — Oil poured upon wine, or any 
other liquor, will prev(5nt it from growing musty, 
or turning cornipt. 

To take aivay the ill scent of wines. 

Bake a long roller of "dough, stuck well with 
cloves, and hang it in the cask. 

To pass while wine off' for champagne. 

Rack it often from the lees; and when very bril- 
liant, bottle it oft": this must be done between vin- 
tage time and the month of Ma)'. 

it has (^says Mr Camel) been a most absurd prac- 
tice with many families to use green gooseberries 
in order to imitate champagne wine; but green fruit 
is, by no means, fit or i)roper for tiie making of 
any wine. Nor, indeed, is it at all necessary in 
making an imitation of cbaiijpagne.. 

'1 make wine sparkle like Ckampagiie. 

Take great care to rack off tiie wine well, and in 
March bottle it as quick as possible. The bottles 
must be very clean and dry, and the coi'ks of the 
best sort, made of velvet or white cork. In two 
months after, tlie wine will be in a fine coudition 
to drink. 

To clear foul or ropy ivines. 

Take h ounce of chalk in powder, ^ an ounce of 
burnt alum, the white of an egg, and one pint of 
spring water. 

Beat the whole up in a mortar, and pour it into 
the wine; after which, roll the cask ten minutes? 
and then \>\&c.e it on the stand, leaving the bung 
out for a few days. As socn as the wine is fine, 
rack it off. 

Or take one ounce of ground rice, -J oz. of burnt 
alum, and ^ oz. of bay-salt. 

Beat lhe"wtiole up" in a mortar, with a pint or 
more of the wine, pour it into the cask, and roll it 
ten minutes. The cask must not be bunged up foi 
a few days. As soon as such wine becomes fine 
rack it ofi". 

Or, bring the cask of v irie out of the cellar^ »dcJ 



WINES. 



133 



place it in a sliady situation to receive the circula- 
tion of the air, and take out tha bung. In three 
weeks or a month rack it oft' into a sweet cask, 
which fill up, and put into the wine an ounce of 
cinnamon, in the stick; and bung; it up tight. 

Another method. — Tap tlie cask, and put a piece 
of coarse linen cloth upon that end of the cock 
which goes to the inside of the cask; then rack it 
into a dry cask to SO gallons of wine, and put in 
5 ounces of powdered alum. Roll and shake tliem 
well together, and it will fine down, and prove a 
very clear and pleasant wine. 

To correct green or harsh ivines. 

Take 1 oz. of salt, ^ oz. calcined gypsum, in 
powder, and 1 pint of skimmed milk. 

Mix tltose up with a little of the wine, and then 
pour the mixture into the cask: put in a few lav- 
ender leaves, stir the wine with a stick, so as not 
to disturb tlie lees, and bung it up. 

To correct sharp, tart, acid ivines. 

Mix 1 oz. of calcined gj'psum in powder and 2 
pounds of honey, in 1 (juart of brandy; pour the 
mixture into the wine, and stir it so as not to dis- 
turb tlie lees; fill up tlie cask, and the following 
(fay bung it up: — rack this wine as soon as fine. 

Or, mix -J- oz. of the salt of tartar, § oz. of cal- 
cined g)psum, in jjowder, with a pint of the wine; 
pour it into tlie cask, and put an oiuice of cinnamon 
in the stick; stir the wine without disturbing the 
lees, fill up the cask, and the day following bung 
it up. 

Or, boil 3 oz. of rice, when cold put it into a 
gauze-bag, and immerge it into the wine; put into 
the wine also a few sticks of cinnamon, and bung 
«ip the cask. In about a month after, take the rice 
out. 

To restore sour -wines. 

Take calcined gypsum, in powder, 1 oz., ci'eam 
of tartar, in powder, 2 oz. 

Mix them in a pint or more of brandy; pour it 
into tiie cask; put in, also, a few sticks of cinna- 
mon, and then stir the wine without disturbing the 
lees. Bung up the cask the next day. 

Another metliod. — Boil a gallon of wine, witli 
some beaten oyster-shells and crab's claws, burnt 
into powder, an ounce of each to every ten gallons 
of wine; the/i strain out the liquor tlirough a sieve, 
and when cold, put it into wine of the same sort, 
and it will give it a pleasant lively taste. A lump 
of unslaked lime put into the cask will also keep 
wine from turning sour. 

To fine or clarify ivines.-' 

Boil a pint of skimmed milk; when cold, mix 
with it an ounce of chalk in fine powder, pour it 
into the cask, and I'oll it ten minutes. The fol- 
lowing day, bung up tlie wine, and rack it off as 
Boon as fine. 

Or, take 1^ oz. of gum ai-abic, in fine powder, 
and I oz. of clialk in powder. 

Mix those up with a pint more of wine, pour the 
mixture into the cask, roll it ten minutes, and then 
fill it up. Bung it up the next day, and rack off 
the wine as sooii as fine. 

Or, take the yolk and wliite of an egg, J oz. of 
chalk, in powder, and ^ oz. of burnt alum, in pow- 
der. 

Beat those up in a mortar with a pint of spring 
water, and pour the mixture into the wine, roll the 
cask; then fill it up, and bung it up the next day. 
Rack off the wine as soon as fine. 
To sweeten ivinen. 

In 30 gallons of wine infuse a handful of the 
flowers of clary; then add a pound of mustard seed, 
dry ground, put it into a bag and sink it to the 
bottom of the cask. 

To stop the fermentation of wine. 

It is in lUif first' place necessary to consider 



whether the existing state of fermentation be the 
original or secondary stage of that process which 
comes on after the former has ceased for several 
days, and is indeed the commencement of acetous 
fermentation. That of the former kind rarely pro- 
ceeds beyond what is necessary for the perfect de- 
composition of the s.iccharine and other parts of the 
vegetable substances necessary for the production 
of spirit, unless the liquor be kept too warm, oris 
too weak, and left exposed to tlie air after the vi- 
nous fermentation is completed. The means to 
correct these circumstances are sufficiently obvious. 
The heat for spirituous fermentation should not be 
above 60 degrees Fahrenheit; when it is much 
above that point, the liquor ])asses rapidly through 
the stage of vinous fermentation, and the acetous 
iminediately commences. When too longcontinu- 
ed fermentation arises from the liquor having been 
kept in a warm situation, it will be soon checked 
by bunging, after being removed into a cold place? 
tlie addition of a small proportion of spirits of wine 
or brandy, previously to closing it up, is also pro- 
per. A degree of cold, approaching to the freez- 
ing point, will check fermentation of whatever kind. 
Fermentation of this kind cannot be stopped by 
any chemical agent, except such as would destroy 
the qualities of the liquor intended to be produced. 

The secondaiy stage of fermentation, or the com- 
mencement of the acetous, may be stopped by re- 
moving the liquor to a cool situation; cori'ecting 
the acid already formed; and if the liquor contain 
but little spirit, the addition of a proper propor- 
tion of brandy is requisite. 

The operation of racking is also necessary tb pre- 
serve liquor in a vinous state, and to render it clear. 
This process should be ])erformed in a cool place. 
To restore pricked British ivines. 

Rack the wines down to the lees into another 
cask, where the lees of good wines are fresh: then 
put a pint of strong aqua vita;, and scrape half a 
pound of yellow bees'-wax into it, which by heat- 
ing the spirit over a gentle fire, will melt; after 
which dip a piece of cloth into it, and when a little 
dry, set it on fire with a brimstone match, put it 
into the bung-linle, and stop it up close. 

Another method. — I'lrst prepare a fresh empty 
cask that has had the same kind of wine in it which 
is about to be racked, then match it, and rack off 
the wine, putting to every ten gallons two ounces 
of oyster powder, and half an ounce of bay salt, 
then get the staff" and stir it well about, letting it 
stand till it is fine, which will "he in a few days; 
after which rack it oft" into another cask, (previous- 
ly matched) and if the lees of some wine of the 
same kind can be got, it will improve it much.— 
Put likewise a quart of brandy to every ten gallons, 
and if the cask has been emptied a long time, it 
will match better on that account; but if even a new 
cask, the matching must not be omitted. A fresh 
empty cask is to be preferred. 

'i'his method will answer for all made wines. 



TO MANAGE FOREIGN WINE VAULTS. 

The principal object to be attended to in the ma- 
nagement of foreign wine vaults, is to keep them 
of a temperate heat. Care must be taken, there- 
fore, to close up every aperture or opening, that 
there may be no admission given to the external 
air. The floor of the vault should likewise be well 
covered with saw-dust which must not be suffered 
to get too dry and dusty, but must receive now and 
then an addition of new, lest, when bottling or 
racking wine, some of the old dust should fly into 
it. At most vaults, in the winter, it is necessary 
to have a stove or chafing-dish, to keep up a proper 
degree of warmth. In the summer time it wiU be 
best to keep them as cool as possible. 

M 



134 



UXIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To Jit up a cellar of wines and spirits. 
Provide a good rope and tackling, to let down 
the casks into the vaults or cellar, and a slide, lad- 
der, or pulley for the casks to slide or roll on; a 
pair of strong slings; a pair of can hooks and a pair 
of crate hooks; a block of wood to put under the 
pipes when topping them over in a narrow passage, 
or in casing tiicm; a small valinch to taste wines; a 
crane, and a small copper pump to rack off; two or 
three gallon cans, made of wood; a large wooden 
funnel; two or three copper funnels from a quart to 
a gallon each; two i-acking cocks; two wine bot- 
tling cocks; a brace and various bits; two small 
tubs; a square basket to hold the corks; two small 
ti.i funnels; a small strainer; two cork screws; two 
or three baskets; a whisk to beat the finings; three 
flannel or linen bags; a strong iron screw to raise 
the bungs; a pair of pliers; bungs, corks, and vent 
pegs; two frets or middle sized gimlets; some sheet 
lead and tacks to put on broken staves; brown pa- 
per to put round cocks and under the lead, when 
stopping leaks; a staff with a chain at one end to 
rumage the wines, &c.; shots and lead canister, or 
bristle brush, and two cloths to wash bottles; two 
large tubs; some small racks that will hold six 
dozen each; a cooper's adze; an iron and a wooden 
driver to tighten hoops; two dozen of wooden 
bungs of different sizes; a thermometer, which is 
to be kept in tlie vault, a stove or chafingdibh, to 
keep the heat of the vault to a known temperature; 
a few dozen of delph labels; a cupboard to hold all 
the tools; a spade, two good stiff birch brooms, and 
a rake to level tlie saw-dust. 

Process of foreign luine mahing. 

"Wlien the grapes are ripe, and the saccharine 
principle is developed, they are then pressed, and 
the juice which flows out is received in vessels of a 
proper capacit3%in which the fermentation appears, 
and proceeds in the following manner. At tlie end 
of several days, and frequently after a few hours, 
according to tlie heat of the atmosphere, the nature 
of the grapes, the quantitj' of the liquid, and the 
temperature of the place in which the operation is 
performed, a movement is produced in the liquor, 
which continually increases; the volume of the fluid 
increases; it becomes turbid and oily; carbonic acid 
is discharged, which fills all the unoecu[)ied part 
of the vessel, and the temperature rises to l!ie 
72-5th degree. At tlie end of several days these 
tumultuous motions subside, tlie mass falls, tiie li- 
quor becomes clearer, and is found to be less sac- 
charine, more odorant, and of a red colour, from 
the re-action of the ardent spirit upon the colour- 
ing matter of the pellicle of the grape. 

The wine is usually taken out of the fermenting 
vessel at the j)eriod when all the phenomena of fer- 
mentation have subsided. When the mass is set- 
tled, the colour of the liquor is well developed; 
when it has become clear, and its heat has disap- 
peared, it is put into casks, wiiere, by a second in- 
sensible fermentation, the wine is clarified, its 
principles combine more perfectly together, and 
its taste and smell become more and more deve- 
loped. If tli's fermentation be stojiped or sufto- 
cated, the gaseous principles are retained, and tlie 
"wine is brisker, and more of the nature of must. 
To make port lime. 

The dark red port is made from grapes gathered 
indiscriminately, and thrown into a cistern, they 
are then trod, and their skins and stalks left in tlie 
mass, which separ.ite during fermentation, and 
form a dry head over the liquid. AV hen the fer- 
mentation is completed, the liquor underneath is 
drawn out, and casked. Before' being brought to 
England it is mixed with one third of brandy to 
enable it to keep during tlie voyage: otherwise the 



carriage biings on the acetous fermentation, and 
the wine is converted into vinegar. 

French incthod of making -imnes. 
In the southern parts of France, their way is 
with red wines to tread or squeeze the grapes be- 
tween the hands, and let the whole stand, juice and 
husks, till the tincture be to their liking; after 
which they press it. For white wines, they press 
the grapes immediately, and when jjressed, they 
tun the must and slop up the vessel, leaving only 
the depth of a foot or more to give room for it to 
work. At the end often days tliey fill this space 
with some other good wine, that will not work it 
again. 

To rack foreign loines. 

The vault or cellar should be of a temperate 
heat, and the casks sweet and clean. Should they 
have an acid or musty smell, it may be remedied 
by burning brimstone matches in them: and if not 
clean, rinse iliem well out with cold water, and 
after draining, rinse with a quart of brand}', putting 
the brandy afterwards into the ullage cask. Then 
strain the lees or bottoms through a flannel or linen 
bag. But put the bottoms of port into the ullage 
cask witliout going through the filtering bag. In 
racking wine that is not on the stillage, a wine 
pump is desirable. 

To manage and improve poor red port. 

If wanting in body, colour, and flavour, draw out 
thirty or forty gallons, and return the same quan- 
tity of young and rich wines. To a can of which 
put three gills of colouring, with a bottle of wine 
or brandy. Then whisk it well together, and put 
it into the cask, stirring it well. If not bright in 
about a week or ten days, fine it for use; pre.vious 
to which put in at different times a giiUori of good 
brandy. If the wine is short of body, jiut a gallon 
or two of brandy in each pipe, by a quart or two at 
a time, as it feeds the wine better than putting it in 
all at once. But if the wines are in a bonded cel- 
lar, procure a funnel that will go to the bottom of 
the cask, that the brandy may be completely incor- 
porated with the wine. 

To manage claret. 

Claret is not a wine of a strong body, though it 
requires to be of a good age before it is used, and 
therefore it should be well managed; the best me- 
thod is to feed it every two or three weeks with a 
pint or two of French brandy. Taste it frequently, 
to know what state it is in, and use the brandy ac- 
cordingl}', but never put much in at a time, while 
a little incorporates with the wine, and feeds and 
mellows it. 

If the claret is faint, rack it into a fresh-emptied 
hogshead, upon the lees of good claret; and bung it 
up, putting the bottom downwards for two or 
three days, that the lees may run through it. 
To colour claret. 

Ifthe colour be not yet perfect, rack it off again 
into a hogshead that has been newly drawn off, 
with the lees; then take a pound of turnsole, and 
put it into a gallon or two of wine; let it lie a day 
or two, and then put it into the vessel; after which 
lay the bung dow nwards for a night, aiul tlie next 
day roll it about. 

Or, take any quantity of damsons or black sloes, 
and strew them with some of the deepest coloured 
wine and as much sugar as will make it into a sy- 
rup. A pint of this will colour a hogshead of cla- 
ret. It is also good for red port wines, and may 
be kept ready for use in glass bottles. 

To restore claret that drinks f ml. 

Rack it oft' from the dregs on some fresh lees of 
its own kind, and then take a dozen of new pippins, 
pare them, and take away the cores or hearts; then 
put them in the hogshead, and if that is not suffi- 



WINES. 



135 



cient, take a handful of the oak of Jerusalem, and 
bruise it; then put it into the wine, and stir it well. 
To make claret and port rotigh. 
Put into a quart of claret or port two quarts of 
"sloes; bake them in a gentle oven, or over a slow 
fire, till a good part of their moisture is stewed out, 
then pour off the liquor, and squeeze out the rest. 
A pint of this will be sufficient for 30 or 40 gallons. 
To recover pricked foreign ivines. 
Take a bottle of red port that is pricked, add to 
it half an ounce of tartarized spirit of wine, shake 
the liquor well togetlier, and set it by for a few 
days, and it will be found much altered for the bet- 
ter. If this operation be dexterously peribrmed, 
pricked wines may be absolutely recovered by it, 
and remain saleable for some time; and the same 
method may be used to malt liquors just turned 
sour. 

To manage hermitage and Bwgmulxi. 
Red hermitage must be managed in the same 
way as claret, and the wliite likewise, except the 
colouring, which it does not require. Burgundy 
should be managed in tlie same manner as red her- 
mitage. 

To manage Lisbon -wine. 
If the Lisbon is dry, take out of the pipe thirty- 
five or forty gallons, and put in the same quantity 
of calcav.clla, stir it well about, and this will make 
a pipe of good mild Lisbon: or, if it be desired to 
convert mild into dry, take (he same quantity out 
as above mentioned before, and fill the pipe with 
Malaga Sherry, stirring it about as the otlieF. The 
same kind of fining used for Vidonia will answer 
for Lisl)on wine; or it may be fined with tlie 
■whites anil shells of sixteen eggs, and a small hand- 
ful of salt; beat it together to a froth, and mix it 
"with a little of the wine: then pour it into the 
pipe, stir it about, and let it have vent for three 
days; after which bung it up, and in a few days it 
will be fine. Lisbon, when bottled, should be 
packed either in saw-dust or leaths iri a temperate 
place. 

To manage Bucella tvine. 
In fining it, proceed in the same way as with the 
Madeira; only observe, that if not wanted very 
pale, keep the milk out of the finings. Tliis ten- 
der wine should be fed with a little brandy, for if 
kept in a place that is either too hot or too cold, it 
■will be in danger of turning foul. 

To improve Sherry. 
If the Sherry be new and hot, rack it off into a 
sweet cask, add five gallons of mellow Lisbon, 
■which will take off the liot taste, then give it a head, 
take a quart of honey, mix it with a can of wine, 
and put it into the cask wlien racking. By this 
method sheriy for present use will be greatly im- 
proved, having much the same effect upon it as 

To improve ivldte tvine. 

If the wine have an unpleasant taste, rack off one 
half, and to the remainder add a gallon of new 
milk, a handful of bay salt, and as much i-ice; after 
■which, take a staff, beat them well together for 
half an hour, and fill up the cask, and when rolled 
■well about, stillage it, and in a few days, it will be 
ranch improved. 

if the white wine is foul and has lost its colour, 
for a butt or pipe take a gallon of new milk, put it 
into the cask, and stir it well about witii a staft"; 
and when it has settled, put in three ounces of is- 
inglass made into a jelly, with aquarter of a pound 
of loaf sugar scraped fine, and stir it well about. 
On the day following, bung it up, and in a few 
days it will be fine and have a good colour. 
To improve wine by chalk. 

Add a little chalk to the must, when it is some- 
what sour; for the acidity arising from citric and 



tartaric acids, there is thus formed a precipitate of 
citrate and tartrate of lime, while the must becomes 
sweeter, and yields a much finer wine. Too much 
chalk may render the wine insipid, since it is pro- 
per to leave a little excess of acid in the must. 
Concentrate the must by boiling, and add the pro- 
per quantity of chalk to the liquor, while it is still 
hot. Even acid wine may be benefited by tlie ad- 
dition of chalk. Oyster-shells may be used with 
this view; and when calcined are a cleaner carbo- 
nate of lime than common chalk. 

To reJiovate sick ivine. 
Wines on the fret should be racked; if their own 
lee indicates decay they should be racked on the 
sound lee of another wine of similar but stronger 
quality, to protract their decline: If this be done 
at an early period, it may renovate the sick wine; 
on these occasions giving the sick wine a cooler 
place, will retard its progress to acidity; if conve- 
nient, such wines should be foiced and bottled. 
Previous to bottling, or rather at the forcing, give 
it one, two, or three table-spoonsful of calcined 
gypsum finely pulverized. This will check its 
tendency to acidity, without exciting much intu- 
mescence, without injuring the colour of the red 
wine, and without retarding its coating to tlie bot- 
tle, which it rather promotes. The proper forc- 
ing for red wines are, the wiiites of ten or twelve 
eggs, beat up with one or two tea-spoonsful of salt, 
per hogshead, and well worked into the wine with 
a forcing-rod; the gypsum should be first boiled 
in a little water. This is Intended to check the 
acetous process. To retard the vinous, the French 
are in the habit of burning sulphur immediately 
under the cask, and possiblj' tlie sulphuric acid 
evolved by the combustion may check its progress 
and prevent the necessity of an admixture. 
To melloxv -wine. 
Cover the orifices of the vessels containing it 
with bladder closely fastened instead of the usual 
materials, and an aqueous exhalation will pass 
through the bladder, leaving some fine ciystalliza- 
tions on the surface of the wine, which, when 
skimmed off, leaves the wine in a highly improved 
state of flavour. Remnants of wine covered in this 
manner, whether in bottles or casks, will not turn 
mouldy as when stopped in the usual way, but 
will be improved instead of being deteriorated. 
German method of restoring sour ivines. 
Put a small quantity of powdered charcoal in the 
wine, shake it, and after it has remained still for 
48 hours decant steadily. 

To concentrate iidnes by cold. 
If any kind of wine be exposed to a sufficient 
degree of cold in frosty weather, or be put into 
any place where ice continues all the year, as 
in ice-houses, and there suftered to freeze, the 
superfluous water contained in the wine will be 
frozen into ice, and will leave the proper and truly 
essential part of the wine unfrozen, unless the de- 
gree of cold should be very intense, or the wine but 
weak and poor. When the frost is moderate, the 
experiment has no difficulty, because not above a 
third or a fourth part of trlie superlluous water 
will he frozen in a whole night; but if the cold 
be very intense, the best way is, at the end of a 
few hours, when»a tolerable quantity of ice is 
formed, to pour out the remaining fluid liquor, 
and set it in another vessel to freeze again by itself. 
The frozen part, or ice, consists only of the wa- 
tery part of tlie wine, and may be thrown away, 
and the liquid part retains all the strength, and is 
to be preserved. This will never grow sour, mus- 
ty, or mouldy, and may at any time be reduced to 
wine of the common Strength, by adding to it as 
much water as will make it up to the former quan- 
tity. 



136 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To fine -white wines. 
Take an ounce of isinglass, beat it Into thin 
shreds with a hammer, and dissolve it, by boiling in 
a pint of water; this, when cold, becomes a stiff 
jelly. Wiiisk up some of this jelly into a froth 
■witli a little of the wine intended to be fined, then 
stir it well among the rest in the cask, and bung it 
down tiglit; by this means the wine will become 
bright in eight or ten days. 

'J'ofine red wines. 
Take wliites of eggs beat up to a froth, and mix 
in the same manner as in white wines. 

Another method. — Put the shavings of green 
Deech into the vessel, having first taken off" all the 
rind, and boil them for an liour in water to extract 
their rankness, and afterwards diy them in the 
s>m, or in an oven. A bushel serves for a tun of 
Avine; and being mashed, they serve again and 
again. 

Mortimer recommends to gather the grapes 
when very dry, pick them fi-om the stalks, press 
them, and let the juice stand twenty-fiur hours in 
a covered vat. Afterwards to draw it oft" from the 
gross lees, then put it up in a cask, and to add a 
j)int or quart of strong red or wiiite port to every 
gallon of juice, and let the whole work, bunging 
it up close, and letting it stand till January; then 
bottling it in dry weather. 

Braiiley chooses to have the liquor, when press- 
ed, stand with the husks and stalks in the vat, to 
ferment for fifteen days. 

To fine a hogsliend of claret. 
Take the wliites and sliells of six fresh eggs, and 
proceed as with port finings. Cliiret requires to be 
kept warm in saw-dust when bottled. 
To fine sherry. 
Take an ounce and a half of isinglass, beat it 
with a hammer till it can be pulle.l into small 
pieces, tlien put it into three ()inls of cider or per- 
ry, and let it remain twenty-four hours, till it be- 
comes a jelly. After which mix it with a f|uartor 
two of wine, and wliisk it well with the whiles and 
shells of six fresh .eggs. Take four or five gallons 
out to make room for tlie finings, and stir the wine 
well. Then nearly fill the can of finings with wine, 
V liisk it well, and put it in the butt, stirring it well 
for about five minutes; afterwards fill it up, and 
put the bung in loose. In two days bung it up, and 
in eight or ten it will he fit for bottling. 
To fine pale Sherry. 
Put three pints of skim-milk with the whites of 
eight eggs, beat well together in a can; then ])ut in 
fuiings, in the same manner as for common sherry. 
If the sherry be tiiin and poor, feed them with good 
brandy as other wines. 

To fine JMadeira. 
Take three ounces of isinglass, and dissolve it,- 
but if old wine two ounces wi.i be enougii, also one 
quart of skim-milk, and lialf a pint of luarble sand; 
"whisk these in a can with some wine. If the pipe 
is full, take out a canful, and stir the pipe well; 
then put in the can of finings, and stir that with a 
staff" lor five minutes; after which put the other can 
of wine into it and let it have vent for three days. 
Then close it up, and in ten days or a fortnight it 
■will be fine and fit for bottling and stowing with 
saw-dust in a warm place. 

Tu improve Madeira ivhich has been I'oundto the 
Indies. 
Madeira should be kept in a warmer place than 
port wine, and therefore reipiires a good body, and 
to be fed with brandy, but if deticiejit in flavour or 
mellowness, add to it a gallon or two of good Malm- 
sey. 

To fine Vidonia tvine. 
When first imported, Vidonia has a harsh and 
acid taste; but if propei-ly managed it more resem- 



bles Madeira wine than any other. To take ofT 
the harshness, fine it down, and then rack it off 
upon the lees of JMadeira or white port, fining it 
again with a light fining; and if 20 or 30 gallons of 
good Madeira wine be added, it mmII pass'for Ma- 
deira. For the finings, dissolve 2 ounces of isin- 
glass and the whites and shells of 6 fresh eggs; beat 
them well up together with a whisk and add a gill 
of marble sand. 

To fine JMalmsey and other ivhiex. 

Take 20 fresh eggs, beat the whites, yolks, and 
shells together, and manage it the same as other 
finings. — Calcavella, Sweet Mountain, Paxaretta, 
and Malaga, should be managed and fined in the 
same manner as Lisbon. — Tent, Muscadine, Sack, 
and Bastard, should be managed the same as 
Malmsey, and fined with 16 or 20 fi-esh eggs, and 
a quart or three pints of skim-milk. — Old Hock, 
and Vin de Grave, are thin l)ut pleasant wines, and 
should be fed with a little good brandy, and fined, 
if necessary, Avitli the whites and shells of 6 or 8 
eggs. 

To fine port ivine. 

Take the whites and shells of eight fresh eggs, 
beat them in a wooden can or i)ail, with a whisk, 
till it becomes a lliick froth; then add a little wine 
to it, and whisk it again. Ifthe pipe is full, take 
out four or five gallons of the wine to make room 
for the finings. Ifthe weather be warmish, add a 
l>int of fresh water sand to tiie finings. Stir it well 
about; after which put in the finings, stirring it for 
five minutes; put in tlie can of wine, leaving the 
bung out for a few hours, that the froth may fall; 
then bung it up, and in eight or ten days it will be 
fine and fit for bottling. 

To make and apply finint(s. 

Put the finings into a can or pail, with a little of 
the liquor about to be fined, wiiisk tliem all toge- 
ther till they are i)erfectly mixed, and then nearly 
fill tlie can witli the liquor, whisking it well about 
again; after which, ifthe cask befull, take out four 
or five gallons to make room; tlien take tlie staff", 
and give it a good stirring; next wiiisk the finings 
ui), and put them in; afterwards stir it with the 
stair lor five minutes. Then drive the bung in, 
aiul bore a hole with a gimlet, that it may have 
vent for 3 or 4 days, after which drive in a vent- 
peg. . . , 
To convert ivhite -anne into red. 

Put four ounces of turnsole rags into an earthen 
vessel, and pour upon them a pint of boiling water; 
cover the vessel close, and leave it to ':ool; strain 
oft' the liquor, which will be of a fine deep red in- 
clining to purple. A small portion of this colours 
a large quantity of wine. This tincture may either 
be made in brandy, or mixed with it, or else made 
into a syrup, with sugar, for keeping. 

In those countries which do not produce the 
tinging grape wiiich afmnls a blood-red juice, 
wherewith the wines of France are often stained, 
in defect of this, the juice of elder-berries is used, 
and sometimes log-wood is used at Oporto. 
To force down tlie finings of all -white -wines, ar- 
racks, and small spirits. 

Put a few quarts of skimmed milk into the cask. 
'1 'o render red tvine tulule. 

If a few quarts of well-skimmed milk be put to a 
hogshead of red wine, it will soon precipitate the 
greater part of the colour, and leave the whole 
nearly white; and this is of known use in the turn- 
ing red wines, when pricked, into white; in which 
a small degree of acidity is not so much perceived. 

Milk is, from this quality of discliarging colour 
from wines, of \ise also to the wine-coopers, for the 
whitening of wines that have acquired a brown co- 
lour from the cask, or from having been hastily 
boiled before fermenting; for the addition of a lit- 



\VINES. 



137 



He skimmed milk, in these cases, precipitates the 
brown colour, and leaves the Avines almost lim- 
\ pid, or of what they call a water whiteness, 
which is much coveted abroad in wines as well as 
in brandies. 

To preserve new wine against thunder. 
Thunder will turn and often change wines. 
Cellars that are paved, and the walls of stone, are 
preferable to boarded floors. Before a tempest of 
thunder, it will be advisable to lay a plate of iron 
Upon the wine-vessels. 

To make xidne settle well. 
Take a pint of wheat, and boil it in a quart of 
water, till it burst and become soft; then squeeze 
it through a linen cloth, and put a pint of the liquor 
into a hogshead of unsettled white wine; stir it 
well about, and it will become fine. 

To make a match for sweetening casks. 
Melt some brimstone, and (lip into it apiece of 
coarse linen cloth; of which, when cold, take apiece 
of about an inch broad and five inches long, and set 
fire to it, putting it into the bung hole, with one 
end fastened under the bung, which must be driven 
in very tight: let it remain a few hom-s before re- 
moving it out. 

To make oyster powder. 
Get some fresh oysttr shells, wash them, and 
scrape off the yellow part from the outside; lay 
them on a clear fire till they become red hot; then 
lay them to cOol, and take off the softest part, pow- 
der it, and sift it through a fine sieve; after which 
use it immediately, or keep it in bottles well cork- 
ed up, and laid in a dry place. 

To make a filtering bag. 
This hag is made ot a yard of either linen or 
flannel, not too fine or close, and sloping, so as to 
have the bottom of it run to a point, and the top as 
broad as the clolh will allow. It must be well 
sewed up the side, and the upper part of it folded 
round a wooden hoop, and well fastened to it; then 
tie the hoop in three or four places with a cord to 
support it; and when used, put a can or pail under 
it to receive the liquor, filling the bag witli the se- 
diments; after it lias ceased to run, wash out the 
bag in three or four clear waters, '.hen hang it up 
to dry in an airy place, that it may not get musty. 
A wine dealer should always have two bags by 
him, one for red, and the other for white wines. 
To bottle- wine. 
Wh^n wine is made fine and pleasant, it maybe 
bottled, taking care afterwards to ])ack it in a tem- 
perate place with saw-dust or leaths. After which 
it will not be fit to drink for at least two months. 
Never use new deal saw-dust, as that causes the 
wine to fret, and often communicates a strong tur- 
pentine smell through the corks to the wine. 
To delect adulterated wine. 
Heat equal parts of oyster shells and sulphur to- 
gether, and keep them in a wliite heat for fifteen 
minutes, .and when cold, mix them with an equal 
quantity of cream of tartar; put this mixture into a 
strong bottle with common water to boil for one 
hour, and then decant into ounce phials, and add 
20 drops of muriatic acid to eacli; this liquor pre- 
cipitates the least quantity of lead, copper, &c. 
from wines in a vei'y sensible black precipitate. 
To detect alum in wine. 
Wine merchants add alum to red wine, to com- 
municate to it a rough taste and deeper colour; but 
Uiis mixture produces on the system the most seri- 
ous effects. For the discovery of the fraud in 
question, adopt the following means:— The wine is 
to be discoloured by means of a concentrated solu- 
tion of chlorine; the mixture is to be evaporated 
until reduced to nearly the fourth of its original vo- 
lume; the liquor is to be filtered; it tlien possesses 
the following properties wh&n it contains alum: — 



1st, it has a sweetish astringent taste; 2d, it fur- 
nishesa white precipitate (sulphate of barytes) with 
nitrate of barytes, insoluble in water and in nitric 
acid; 3d, caustic potash gives rise to a yellowish 
white precipitate of alumine, sola!)le in an excess 
of potash; 4th, the sub-carbonate of soda produces 
a yellowish white precipitate (sub-carbonate of 
alumine) decomposable by fire into carbonic acid 
gas, alumine, easily recognizable by its charac- 
ters. 

Another mode. — Add to the wine a sufficient 
quantity of a strong solution of chlorine water, 
(oxygenated muriatic acid) until it is changed to a 
yellow colour: let the precipitate, (composed of 
the chlorine and the vegcto-animal matter contain- 
ed in the wine), which immediately forms, become 
settled, then filter the liquor, and" evaporate it to 
^th of its volume; it will now, in consequence of 
the presence of the alum, have an astringent sweet- 
ish taste, and will furnish a wliile precipitate on 
the addition of nitrate of barj'tes, which is insolu- 
ble in water and in nitric acid. It will give a yel- 
lowish white precipitate with pure potass, that is 
soluble on the addition of an excess of the potass; 
and a precipitate of the same colour, with the sub- 
carbonate of soda. 

To detect lead and copper in wine, ader, peiry,&c. 
Tut into a crucible 1 oz. of suli)]mr, and I oz. of 
pure lime; and keep them in a white heat for 
nearly half an hour; when cold, add 1 ounce ofthe_ 
super-tartrate of potass, and boil the whole in a 
matrass with some distilled water for half an hour. 
Decant the supernatant liquor into small phials, 
adding about 20 or 30 drops of muriatic acid to 
each. The phials must be well stopped and pre- 
served for use. Lead, copper and other deleterious 
metals will be precipitated, of a black colour, by 
this liquid, if poured, in the quantity of only a few 
drojis, into the suspected wine or cider. 

Another mode. — Another test for these perni- 
cious metals in wine and cider, exists ready formed 
in nature. Pour into a glass of suspected wine, 
cider, or perry, a few drops of Harrowgate water. 
If any lead, &c. be present, it will fall down in the 
state of a black precipitate, being combined with 
the sulphuretted hydrogen by which these waters 
are impregnated. 

Lead is used by many wine-merchants to give 
an astringeney to port-wine; that, like ohl port, it 
may appear rough to the tongue. Sometimes they 
hang a sheet of lead in the cask; at others they pour 
in a solution of acetate (sugar) of lead, for the pur- 
pose of sweetening, as they term it. 
To detect lead, corrosive sublimate, and antimony 
in wines, &c. 
Sulphuric acid decomposes them with precipi- 
tate, that is blackish when antimony is present, 
but white with the two first mentioned: tlien, let 
the precipitate be washed with boiling water; if it 
change not, it is lead; li it acquire a yellow colour, 
it is mercury. 

Another test for lead in wine. 
, Whatever quantity of lead resides in wine, may 
be precipitated by mixing with it a fluid, made by 
exposing powdered oyster-shells and sulphur, equal 
quantities, to a white heat for a quarter of an hour; 
and when the compost is cold, add as much creasa 
of tartar thereto. Put the whole in a strong bottle 
witii common water, and let the liquor boil aa 
hour; i)our ofl:'the solution into ounce phials, each 
of which will be sufScient for a cask of wine, and 
add to each 20 drops of muriatic acid. Every por- 
tion of lead it may contain, will be found at the 
bottom, in the form of a black cindery precipitate. 
Having collected a sufficient quantity of this preci- 
pitate, upon an iron plate, expose it to a heat and 
the lead will run off. > 

M% 



V 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Jlnother. — Take a paste of sulphur and iron fil- 
ings, put it into a phinl, and pour on it a small 
quantity of sulphuric acid. Pass the gas, which 
■will arise, through a bent tube, into a bottle of 
vater: when thus impregnated, it will form a new 
and improved test for the purpose. When poured 
into wine which contaijis litharge, it will render it 
black and flakey, and occasion a considerable pre- 
cipitation. 

JVote by the American Editor. 
The culture of the vine, and the art of obtaining 
Its delicious products, are subjects of so much pub- 
lic interest in this country at this particular mo- 
Eient, that no apology is necessary for digressing 
it moment, to state, that in the " Vine-Dresser's 



Manual, and Art of makir.g Wine, Brandy, ani 
Vinegar, by I'hiebaut de Beriieaud," published 
by P. Canfield, New York, 1829, every i)articular 
relative thereto is to be found. This little volume 
is wholly practical, and should be procured, and 
attentively studied by every one who intends plant- 
ing a vineyard. Indeed, of so much importance 
does the editor consider the book in question, that, 
had time been afforded him to procure the origi- 
nal, lie should have transferred it wholly to this 
work. Though no legal obstaclespreventedhisusing 
the New York translation, others not less imperi- 
ous forbade him. Any of the booksellers of New 
York, or Philadelphia, can procure the treatise Id 
question; and again I say to those interested, pur- 
chase and study it. 



"BlSTTL-LSLTIOn. 



The object of distillalion is the preparation of 
alcohol or pure spirit, which is obtained from bran- 
dy, rum, arrack, and whiskey, prepared from wine, 
sugar, rice, and malt. It also includes compoimd 
spirits, or those which, in addition to alcohol, con- 
tain some volatile or pungent oil or essence, — as 
gin, hollands, caraway, and peppermint; the es- 
sential oils, as oil of cinnamon, oil of cloves, oil of 
peppermint, .md otto of roses; and tlie simple dis- 
tilled waters, which i-etain the fragrant flavour of 
the particular herbs with which they have been dis- 
tilled. 

To manage distillation. 

Previous to distilling, the processes of brewing 
and fermentation are necessary. In distilling, tliere 
is only one general rule, namely, to let the heat, in 
all cases, be as gentle as possible. A water-bath, 
if sufficiently large, is preferable to any other mode, 
anci will perform the operation with all the dis- 
patch requisite for the most extensive business. 
The spirit, as it first comes over, should be receiv- 
ed into a quantity of cold water; as, by this means, 
the connexion between it and the oily matter will 
DC considerably lessened. For the same reason, 
after it has been once rectified in the water-bath, 
it should be again mixed with an equal quantity of 
■water, and distilled a second time. After the spi- 
rit has been distilled once or twice in this manner, 
from water, it may be distilled in a water-bath 
without any addition; and this last rectification will 
free it from the greater part of the water which it 
may contain. 

In distilling compound spirits, a small still has 
been found to answer better than a large one. 
Utensils. * 

In a distillery are required a variety of utensils, 
such as a still, worm-tub, pump, a water-cask, a 
strong press, hair-cloths, three or four iron-bound 
tubs, capable of containing from a hogshead to a 
pipe, of any liquor; three or four cans, capable of 
holding from two to six gallons by measure, an 
iron-bound wooden funnel, having a strong iron 
nosel, or pipe; a pewter syphon, about six feet and a 
half long, and four inches in circumference; flannel 
hags, for refining the thick and feculent matter at 
tlie bottom of the casks and other vessels. 
Operation of tlie still. 

When the still is charged, let the fire under it 
be lighted; and whilst it burus up, the joints should 
ue carefully, luted. 



By laying the hand on the still and capital, as 
the fire gains strength, the process of the operation 
will be ascertained; for, whenever the head, or ca- 
pital, feels hot, it is a proof that the volatile parti- 
cles have arisen, and are about to enter the worm. 
When the still head is about to become hot, pre- 
pare a damp, made of the ashes under the grate, 
mixed with as much water as will properly wet 
them. This mixture is to be thrown upon the fire, 
to moderate its action, at the instant when distilla- 
tion has commenced. Continue the heat as long 
as the distilled liquid is spirituous to the taste. 
When the distilled liquor carries witli it any par- 
ticular flavour, it should be re-distilled with essen- 
tial oils, in order to convert it into a compound 
spirit, as gin, peppermint, and other cordials. 

When all the spirituous fluid is drawn off", the 
still should be emptied by a cock in the side. The 
head, &c. should then be removed, and the several 
lutes taken clean off. The still may now be charg- 
ed a second time, and luted. If the spirit, or com- 
pound to be made, is of a different nature or flavour 
from that procured by the last distillation, the still, 
capital, and worm should be thoroughly cleaned 
by hot water, sand, and a scrubbing brush, to re- 
move the oily particles which adiiere to their in- 
ternal surfaces. The worm is best cleansed by 
passing hot water through it repeatedly, until the 
water flows out vjuite flavourless. 

Great care should be taken that no grease, tal- 
low, soap, or any other unctuous matter, fall into 
the tubs, pieces, rundlets, or cans. — Above all 
things, lighted candles, torches, or pa])ers, should 
not be brought near any vessel containing spirits. 
The flue or chimney should he kept constantly 
clean. 

To use a portable furnace. 

In the laboratories of experimental chemists, 
portable fui-naees are employed. Charcoal is the 
only fuel that can be used in tliem, except (he oc- 
casional use of the finer kinds of stone coal that 
yield a bright flame, and burn to a white ash with- 
out forming clinkers. When the fire is regulated 
by the admission of only the necessary quantity of 
air tiu'ough the charcoal, and the whole heat of the 
fuel is directed upon the subject exposed to it, the 
expense is not so great as might be supposed, for 
no other fuel gives out so much heat. One lb. of 
charcoal will boil away 13 lbs. of water, whereaa 
the same weight of Newcastle coal will boil away 



DISTILLATION. 



139 



only 8 or 9 lbs. A pound of coke will only boil 
away 4 lbs. of water, and a pound of peat seldom 
more than 5 lbs. or by a skilful mode of using it at 
the utmost 10 lbs. 

To hiiild fixed fwmaces. 
Windsor bricks are generally used, as they may 
be cut as easily as chalk, and yet bear a violent 
he.'it without alteration; they must be set in clay of 
the same field. The parts distant from the fire 
may be of common bricks set in mortar, but this 
mortar" must be carefully removed before the other 
part is begun, as an accidental admixture of it with 
the clay would cause the latter to run into glass, 
and thus spoil the furnace. Tliese furnaces are 
generally built as thin as possible that they may 
take up the less i-oom, and to save fuel in heating 
them as they have selrlom fire constantly in them; 
in this case, they should be surrounded vvitli iron 
braces, to prevent the alternate contraction and ex- 
pansion destroying them as soon as tliey otlierwise 
would. 

To make a portable sand-pot. 
For a portable one, the asli pit may be an iron 
cylinder, 17 inches in diameter and 8 deep, closed 
at bottom. In the front is cut a hole 3 inches liigh 
and 4 wide, with sliders to sliut close. Three pins 
are riveted on the inside about an inch below llie 
upper edge; these are to support the fire-place. 
The bottom of this ash pit is lined with clay, beat 
up with cliarcoal dust and formed into a kind of 
saucer. Tiie fire-place is a small cylinder of nearly 
tlie same width, so as to fit easily into the top of tlie 
ash pit, and rest on tlie three pins; its heiglit is 15 
inches, and it has a fiat border at eacli end, leaving 
a circular opening of 10 inchesin diameter. Around 
the lower border are riveted three screws, to which 
are fixed, by nuts, a grate. In the upper border, 
towards the circumference, and at equal distances 
from each other, are made four circular lioles an 
inch over. The inside of the fire-place is lined 
■with clay and ch.ircoal, whose surface is adjusted 
to a core, made by drawing on a board an ellipsis, 
having its foci 15 inches asunder, and its semior- 
dinates at the foci 5 inclies, sawing off tlie board at 
each focus, and also down the greatest diameter, so 
tliat the internal cavity may represent an ellipsoid 
of those dimensions, cut off at the foci. A fire- 
hole about 6 inches wide and 4 inches and a half 
high, witli tlie lower limit about 3 inches above the 
grate, is left iu the front to be closed with ajined 
stopper; both the fire hole and stopper having a 
border to retain the lining. When the lining is 
dry, four openings are cut sloping tlirough it, cor- 
responding to the openings in the upper border, to 
serve as vents for the l)urnt air, and to regulate tlie 
fire by sliding pieces of tile more or less over them. 
In the central opening at the top of the fire-place is 
hung a cast-iron pot, eitlier hemispherical, or, 
whicli is most usual, cylindrical, about 6 inches 
deep at the edge, with a rounded bottom, so tliat 
tlie axis is about an inch deeper. The common 
pots have otdy a reflected border by which tiiey 
hang; but the best kind have also an upright edge 
that rises an inch higher, to whicli a stone-ware 
head is fitted; and thus the pot serves for many dis- 
tillations tiiat require a strong fire. It is usual to 
cut a notch on one side of the top of the fire-place, 
sloping upwards to the edge of the pot, about 3 
inches wide and 2 deep, to admit alow retort to be 
sunk deeper into the pot, by allowing a passage to 
its neck. 

To make a sand-heat furnace. 
A furnace of this kind may be stationary, and 
built of bricks that will stand the fire: and in this 
cjse, the ash pit is built about 12 inches high, and 
Las an ash-door opening into it about 6 inches 
iquarej a grate is then laid, and a fire-door 6 inches 



by 8 opens immediately into the fire-place, even 
with the grate. The fire-place is made cylindrical, 
2 inches wider than the sand pot, and about 8 
inches deeper; the grate being a square whose side 
is about two-thirds the internal diameter of the 
sand-pot. Tliis pot hangs by its border in an iron 
ring jdaced at the top of the furnace; we have not 
yet adopted Teichmeyer's method of sloping the 
pot. As stone coal is generally used in fixing fui*- 
naces, instead of the 4 register holes used as vents 
in the portable furnaces, only one opening, about 
as wide as the grate, and 3 inches high, either in 
the back or on one side, is made to vent the burned 
air into the chimney. Tliis, however, has the in- 
conveniency of heating the pot unequally, the side 
next the vent becoming much the hottest, in spite 
of the endeavour to equalize the heat by bringing 
tlie fire from under the centre of the pot as forward 
as possible, by raising the wall opposite to the vent 
perpendicularly, and enlarging it only on the other 
three sides; sometimes, with the same view, seve- 
ral small vents are made round the pot, leading 
into tlie chimney. A notch for the neck of the re- 
tort is generally made on one side. As much heat 
passes through the vent, it is usual to cause the 
heated air to pass under a large cast-iron plate, 
placed on a border of bricks surrounding a plat- 
form of the same materials, and leaving a cavity of 
about 2 inches and a half deep, at the further end 
of which, another opening leads into the chimney. 
On this iron plate, sand is laid to form a sand heat, 
and thus several operations are carried on at the 
same time. If tliat in the sand-pot is finished, and 
it is desired to keep on those in the sand-heat 
without interruption, tlie vessel may be drawn out 
of the sand, some warm sand thrown on that re- 
maining in the pot, and a fresh vessel with mate- 
rials introduced. But if this new ojieration should 
require the heat to be more gradually exhibited, a 
pot of thin plate iron, filled with cold sand, con- 
taining the vessel, may be partly slid into the heat- 
ed sand-pot, and, being supported by pieces of 
brick placed under the edge or otherwise, kept 
there until it be necessary to increase the heal, 
when it may be slid down lower until at length it 
is permitted to reach the bottom of the sand-pot. 
To make a hot still. 
Portable hot stills should have an ash-pit and 
fire-place exactly similar in dimensions to those 
used with the sand-pot, or the same furnace may 
be used with a hot still, if economy and not conve- 
nience is the principal object. The copper or tin 
plate cucurbite will, of course, be 10 inches wide, 
and about 12 deep, and hang 7 inches within the 
fire-place. The mouth should be wide, that the 
water-b.ith to be occasionally hung witliin it so as 
to reach witliin 3 inches of tlie bottom may be the 
larger. Between this wide neck and the circum- 
ference there should be a short pipe, through which 
the liquor left after distillation may be drawn off 
by a crane without unluting the vessels; fresh li- 
quor added; or, in distilling with the water-bath, 
the steam may escape. This pipe has a ring round 
it, that the cork with wliich it is stopped may be 
firmly tied down, and like the other joinings be 
luted; for which purpose slips of paper smeared 
with Hour and water, or common paste, are usually 
esteemed sufficient; but the best material is blad- 
ders rotted in water until they smell extremely 
oftensive and adhere to the fingers when touched, 
and then worked between the hands into rolls, 
which are to be applied to the joinings. These 
small stills have usually a Moor's head that fits 
both the cucurbite and the water-bath, their necka 
being of equal diameter, and is furnished with a 
groove round the lower part on the inside to direct 
the condensed vapoui' to the nose of the alembick; 



140 



UNIVERSAL SECEIPTTJOOK. 



ftnd this head is surrounded by a refrigeratory con- 
taining cnld water, wliich is not so cumbersome as 
and less expensive than a worm and tul). But the 
most advantacjeous way of cooling the vapours is to 
use a Moor's head without a surrounding refrige- 
ratory, or only a plain hent tube, which should be 
at least 1<S inches lotig, that the small globules of 
the lioiliiu; li(|Uor which are thrown up near a fool 
high, slioidd not pass over, and render the distilled 
liquor unfit for keeping. 'I'o this is to be adapted 
a pewter pipe, about 8 feet long if spirit of wine is 
to be distilled; or shorter for watery liquors; and 
ill both cases | of an inch in diameter on the inside, 
inclosed in a tinned plate tube with a funnel. With 
an adopter of this kind, and the consumption of a 
pint and a half of water in a minute, or at)out 9 gal- 
lons in an hour, spirit of wine may be distilled at 
the rale of a gallon hy the hour, from one. of these 
portable stills. Another convenience of these straiglit 
pipes is, that they may be cleansed in the same 
manner as a fowling piece. 

'Jo make a large still. 

If this furnace is fixed, and made of bricks, it 
may he constructed with a sand heat like that an- 
nexed to the sand-pot: buttliis is seldom practised, 
although it would lie advantageous for digestions 
and evaporations with a gentle heat, because the 
fire is genersflly kept up at an even height. If tlie 
cucurbite is not wanted for distilling, it may be 
used as a boiler to keep water ready heated for use, 
and to be drawn oft' when wanted by a syphon or 
crane. But these fixed stills are usually furnished 
with a pipe and cock on a level witli tii-e bottom, 
by which they can be emptied, and have almost al- 
ways a worm and tub to cool tlie vapours; the head 
is usually of that kind which is called a swan's 
neck. 

Astier''s improved still. 

It lias been proved that as soon as a common still 
is in operation, the steam from the capital in the 
first turn of the worm is at a temperature of 80°, or 
100° of Reaumur. Here xvater onlij condenses, 
and the alcohol in vapour passes into the second 
turn, where it condenses by tlie lowered tempera- 
ture. If the condensed liquid is drawn oft" from 
the upper turn, it is mere pldegm, or water; while 
that from the second turn is alcohol, or spirit. The 
mode of doing this is very simple, and can be ap- 
plied to any old still; so that every advantage re- 
sulting from tlie most complicated and expensive 
stills can be obtained; tliat is to say, plain brandy, 
Dutch proof, and even thirty -five and tliirty-sixth 
])roof. The alterations are eft'ected as follows. 
Each turn of tlie worm is to be furnished with a 
very slender lateral pipe, ending in a faucet and 
tap. A cresc .nt shaped valve, placed just before 
the opening of the pi|)e into the worm, obliges the 
condensed liquid to trickle into the pipe, and a 
slight elbow above and below the pipe prevents 
any of tlie steam from running in the same direc- 
tion. Each of these pipes follows the main worm 
in all its convolutions, comes out of the condenser 
^t the same opening, and is led thence to its own 
receiver. The pipe of the first turn has also a se- 
cond branch with a faucet, which lets out the phlegm, 
(which is worthless) as fast as it is condensed. A 
prover indicates tiie moment when the feints should 
be separated, as simple brandy or proc4 spirit is 
■wanted. These feints are either detained in the 
boiler, or set aside for rectification, in all cases 
necessary for the last spirit that comes over, with- 
out which it is worthless. 

Besides producing more spirit, and saving three- 
fourths out of the feints, tlie worm prepared as 
above shortens the term of distillation by one half, 
and consequently reduces the expense of fuel. In 
addition to tliis, and what is of more consequence, 



a sour wine may be distilled as well as any other» 
aTid without the least taint being perceptible in the 
l)randy. The spirit is, of course, less in quantity, 
but whatever is obtained is good, and all the acid 
separates and flows out by the first pipe, which 
gives an opportimity of profiting by the acetous por- 
tion. 

To e.rfinp-idsh fire in distilleries. > 

A •woollen blanket or rng, hung over a roller in 
a water-butt, is ti)e readiest and best extinguisher. 
7 'o didcifij spirits. 

In dtdcifj'ing, or sweetening the spirit.s, weigh 
the sugar, and dissolve it in one or more cans of 
the water, witli Mhich tlie compound is to be made 
up: bruise the sugar, and stir it well, till all is dis- 
solved. Then empty it into the cask containing 
tiie spirits; mixing all together, by drawing off" se- 
veral cans liy tlie cock, and emptying them into the 
casks by the bung holes. Now rummage all well 
togetiier, till they are perfectly compounded. 

Spirits or compounds tliat are strong, require no 
assistance in setting, and becoming clear; but those 
that are weak must be refined by the addition of 
sotue other substance. To every hogshead of Ge- 
neva, or other spirituous compound, ])Ut six ounces 
of powdered alum, previously dissolved in tlireeor 
four gallons of the compound: stir all well together. 
In the course of twenty-four hours, the whole will 
be rendered completely clear. 

It is a good practice to leave the bung-holes of 
casks (containing spirits or compounds newly 
made) open for several days: this imjiroves their 
flavour; and renders them clear, sooner than they 
would otherwise be. 

Table-salt thrown into the still, in the propor- 
tion of 6 ounces to 10 gallons of any liquid to be 
distilled, will greatly improve the flavour, taste, 
and strength ot the spirit. The viscid matter will 
be fixed by the salt, whilst the volatile matter 
ascends in a state of great purity. 

The flavour of malt spirits is highly improved 
by putting oj ounces of finely powdered charcoal, 
and 4^ ounces of ground rice, into a quart of spi- 
rits, and letting it stand during 15 days, frequent- 
ly stirring it; tben let the liquor he strained, and 
it will be found nearly of tiie same flavour as brandy. 
To make charcoal. 

This is usually manufactured from coppice wood, 
cut every 16 years; the faggots are made into a 
large conical pile, covered up with clods of earth, 
leaving circular rows of holes from top to bottom. 
The wood is then kindled, and as it becomes red, 
the holes are regularly closed to slop the further 
combustion, anil when the whole has been closed 
up, the pile is left to cool; when the black skeleton 
of tlie wood is left, which dift"ers from the rav/ 
wood in burning without any smoke, and with lit- 
tle or no flame, yielding at the same time no soot, 
although some of the finer particles of the ashes ai-o 
volatilized and adhere to the chimney. The air' 
which passes through the burning charcoal bas its 
oxygenous part converted into carbonic acid gas, 
without being, when cooled, any ways altered in 
bulk, although its weight by the gallon is increased. 

The air being thus rendered unfit for respira- 
tion, kills whatever animals or plants are confined 
in it: numerous accidents have happened of persons 
being suft'ocated by sleeping in close rooms with & 
charcoal fire. 

The charcoal for medical purposes should, like 
that for gun-powder, be nvide of soft woods, as al- 
der, heated in iron long necks until no volatile 
matter is given out. Small quantities may be made 
by burying wood under sand in a covered crucible, 
and exposing the whole to fiw. 

'I'o make spirit of -wine. 

Spirit of wine, as it is called, was formerly, and 



DISTILLATION. 



141 



ts still, in southern countries, obtained by distill- 
ing wine for its yield of brandy, and then slowly 
aostracting the more volatile part of the brandy, by 
a small fire and the use of tall vessels. In England, 
spirit of wine is, in general, obtained from ground 
meal, either of wheat, rye, or barley, with from 
one-tenth to one-third of the same, or another grain, 
malted and ground, and then called malt spirit; or 
from treacle, and then called molasses spirit; some 
is also made from af)ples, or cider wash. The 
fermentation is carried on quicker and farther than 
in brewing or making cider, in order that all the 
sugar in the wash may be converted into spirit and 
water. The infusion of (he malt and meal is made 
80. strong, that its specific gravity is from 1.0S3 to 
1.14, (whereas that for strong ale is generally 1.00 
and for small beer, 1.015 to 1.04) and is mi.xed 
v.ith a large quantity of yeast, added by successive 
portions, initil, in about ten days, the specific gra- 
> ity is reduced to 1.00-2, when it is fit for the still. 
In general, a third part is drawn off at the first stil- 
ling, under the name of low wines, the specific gra- 
vity beiTig about 0.9r5. On re-distilling the low 
v/ines, a fiery spirit, of a milky cast, comes over 
first, and is returned into the still: then follows the 
clean spirit: when it begins to grow too watery, 
the remaining spirit that comes over, as long as it 
vill take fire, is kept apart, under the name of 
feints, and mi.xed with the next parcel of low wines. 
Instead of these trials, the head of the still may 
have the bulb of a thermometer inserted into it, 
and by observing the temperature of the steam, an 
accurate judgment may be formed of the strength 
of the spirit that distills over. It is computed, th.it 
100 gallons of malt or corn wash will produce about 
23 of spirit, containing about half its weight of wa- 
ter; molasses wash, 2'2 gallons; cider wash, 15 gal- 
lons. The best French wines yield from 20 to 25 
g.allons. The spirit thus obtained is for chemical 
and pliarmaceulical pui'poses mixed with water, to 
separate the oil it contains, and re-distilled several 
times in tall vessels, with a very gentle heat, until 
its S])ecific gravity is reduced to 0.82; though that 
usually sold is only 0.837, at 60 deg. Falirenheit. 
By distilling spirit of wine with purified pearl 
ashes, salt of tartar, muriate of lime, lime, or com- 
mon salt, all previously heated to redness, and 
cooled, its specific gravity may be reduced still 
lower, even as low as 0.792, at 68 deg. Fahrenheit; 
hut there is reason to think, that it not only parts 
with water, but also xnulergoes some change, or 
acquires some impi'egnatiou by these additions, as 
its taste is altered. This spirit of wine, from which 
eveiy particle of water is separated, is called by 
the Arabic name of ah'ohol. 

To make ether. 
Tlie old chemists, after mixing spirit of wine 
with au equal weiglit of oil of vitriol, digested it for a 
long time, and then distilled the most volatile part, 
which was called the sweet oil of vitriol. At pre- 
sent, the mixture, whose temperature is consider- 
ably increased, is placed in a heated sand bath and 
(lislilled, without being suffered to cool until one 
lialf the quantity of the spirit is come over, mean- 
while, an inflammable gas also passes over. If 
the distillation is continued, sulphurous acid passes 
over, and a light yellow sweet oil of wine; the 
black residuary sulj)hurie acid contains charcoal 
diffused through it, which may be separated by ad- 
mixture with water and filtration. If fresh alco- 
hol is poured on the residuum, more ether may be 
obtained by distillation. The unrectified ether, as 
the first product is called, contains both water and 
filcohol: dry salt of tartar sep.irates the first, and 
then pouring off the upper liquid, and adding dry 
muriate of lime in powder, tliis salt unites witli 
tlie ukohol, and the ether swima un the solution> 



To imitate foreign spirits. 
A great desideratum among distillers, in this 
country, is to imitate foreign spirits, sucli as bran- 
dy, rum, geneva, &c. to a tolerable degree of per- 
fection; but, notwithstanding the many attempts 
that are daily made for this purpose, the success, 
in general, has been indifferent. The general me- 
thod of .distilling brandies in France, differs in no- 
thing from that practised here, with malt-wash or 
molasses; nor are the French distillers in the least 
more cleanly in their operations. Still, though 
brandy is distilled from wine, experience tells us 
that there is a great difference in the grapes from 
wliich the wine is made. Every soil, every cli- 
mate, every kind of grape, varies witli regard to 
the quantity and quality of the spirit distilled from 
them. A large quantity of brandy is distilled in 
France during tlie time of the vintage: for the 
poor grapes that prove unfit for wine, are usually 
first gathered, pressed, their juice fermented, .<mj 
instantly distilled. It is a general rule with them, 
not to distil wine that will fetch any price as ■wins; 
for, in this state, the profits obtained are much 
greater than when the wine is reduced to brandies. 

F^'or a long time, this liquor was distilled only 
from spoilt wine, and afterwards from the dregs of 
beer and wine; and when, instead of these, the dis- 
tillers employed rye, wheat, and barley, it was con- 
sidered as a wicked and unpardonable misuse of 
corn. 

To condense vapoiirs in distillation. 

This is best accomplished by means of a disk at- 
tached to tlie tube of the still whicli has the figure 
of a lens, flattened as mucli as possible and made 
of copper. It produces a much better and more 
rapid effect than the worms employed for tliat 
purpose. 

To make British brandy. 

To sixty gallons of clean rectified spirit put 1 
pound of sweet spirit of nitre, 1 pound of cassia 
buds ground, 1 pound of bitter almond meal, (the 
cassia and almond meal to be mixed together be- 
fore they are puf to the spirits), 2 ounces of sliced 
orris root, and about 30 or 40 prune stones pound- 
ed; agitate the wliole well together, two or three 
times a day, for three days or more: let them set- 
tle, then pour in 1 gallon of the best wine vine- 
gar; and add to every 4 gallons,! gallon of foreign 
brandy. 

To imitate Cogniac brandy, 

English spirits, with proper management, are 
convertible into brandy, hardly distinguishable 
from foreign, jirovided the operation is neatly per- 
formed. The best, and indeed the only methou of 
imitating the French brandies to perfection, isby an 
essential oil of -vine, this being the very ingredient 
which gives the French brandies their flavour. It 
must however be rememliered, that, in order to 
use even this ingredient to advantage, a pure taste- 
less spirit must first be produced. 

To prepare the oil of wine, dissolve some cakes 
of dry wine-lees in six or eight times their weight of 
water, distil the liquor by a slow fire, and separate 
the oil by a separatory glass, reserving for the ni- 
cest uses that which comes over the first, the suc- 
ceeding oil being co-irser and more resinous. This 
oil of wine should be dissolved in alcohol, other- 
wise it will soon grow rancid. 

To imitate Cogniac brandy, it will be necessary 
to distil the essential oil from Cogniac lees, and 
the same for any other kind of brandy. The proof, 
it may be easily accom))lished, by using a spirit 
rectified tibove proof which, intimately combined 
with llie eseiitial oil, may be reduced to a proper 
standard by distilled water. The softness may, in 
a g'-eat measure, be obtained by distilling and reo 
litying the spirit over a geatle fire; and, what is 



142 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



wanting, -when the spirit is first made, will be sup- 
plied by time. Treacle or burnt sugar gives the 
spirit a fine colour, nearly resembling that of PVencli 
brandy; but as its colour is deep, a large quantity 
roust be used: and the bubbleproof is greatly height- 
ened by the tenacity imparted to the liquor by the 
treacle, while the spirit acquires from the mixture 
a luscious taste. A much smaller quantity of burnt 
sugar tlian of treacle will however be sufficient for 
colouring the same quantity of spirits, and it ac- 
quires an agreeable bitterness. The burnt sugar 
is prepared by dissolving a proper quantity of sugar 
in a little water, and scorching it over the fire till 
it acquires a black colour. 

To procure the oil of wine. 

This oil should be distilled irora the thick lees 
of French wines, because of the flavour, and when 
procured must be kept ready for use. It must be 
mixed with the purest spirit of wine, such as alco- 
hol; by which means it may be preserved a long 
time. The bottle should be shaken before the oil 
is used. 

When the flavour of the brandy is well imitated 
by a proper portion of the essential oil, and the 
whole reduced into one nature, yet other diflicul- 
ties still exist; which are, the colour, the softness, 
and the proof. The proof may be effected by using 
a spirit above proof, which after being mixed with 
the oil may be let down to any strength with water. 
The softness will be attained by getting a spirit 
that has been distilled by a slow fire; an<l the co- 
lour may be regulated by the use of brandy co- 
louring. 

To make brandy from treacle. 

Spirit distilled from common treacle dissolved 
in water, should be fermented in the same manner 
as the wash for common malt spirit. If fresh wine- 
lees abounding in tartar, are well fermented with 
molasses, the spirit will acquire a greater vinosity 
and briskness, and approach the nature of foreign 
brandy. If the molasses spirit, brought to the 
common proof strength, is found not to have suffi- 
cient vinositj', it will be proper to add some sweet 
spirits of nitre; and if the spirit has been properly 
distilled by a gentle heat, it may, by this addition 
only, be made to pass with ordinary judges as 
French brandy. Great quantities of this spirit are 
used in adulterating foreign brandy, rum, and 
arrack. Much of it is also used alone, in making 
cherry brandy and other cordials by infusion; in 
all which many prefer it to foreign brandies. Mo- 
lasses, like all other spirits, is entirely colourless 
when first extracted; but distillers give it, as nearly 
as possible, the colour of foreign spirits. 
To make brajidy from potatoes. 

Potatoes by distillation afford brandy of the best 
quality, not to be distinguished from that obtained 
from wine. One thousand lbs. pressed, fermented, 
and distilled daily, affords from 60 to 70 quarts of 
good brandy. The residue of tiie potatoe, after 
the spirit is extracted, is used as food for cattle. 
To improve British brandy. 

Take tliirty gallons of fine English brandy, three 
ounces of tincture Japonica, and nine ounces of 
spiritof nitre dulcis. Incorporate these with some 
of the spirit, and then put it into the rest of the li- 
quor, and stir it well '.bout. This will make 
thirty gallons of braiid'^ , and if it be a good clean 
spirit, it will mucli resemble French brandy. 
To prepare tinctrire Japonica. 

Take of the best English saffron, and dissolve 
one ounce; mace bruised, one ounce; infuse them 
into a pint of bra,ndy till the whole tincture of the 
saff"ron is extracted, which will be in seven or 
eight days; tiien strain it through a linen cloth, and 
to the strained tincture add two ounces of tai-lar Ja- 



ponica powdered fine; let it infuse till the tincture 
is wholly impregnated. ^ 

To make Jamaica mm. 
This is obtained from the refuse of the raw su 
gar manufactories, by taking equal quantities of 
the skimmings of the sugar jjans, of lees or returns 
as they are commonly called, and of water; and to 
100 gallons of this wash are added ten gallons of 
molasses. This affords from 10 to 17 gallons of 
proof rum, and twice as much low wines; it i3 
sometimes rectified to a strength approaching to 
spirit of wine, and is then called double distilled 
rum. 

To imitate Jamaica ram. 
To imitate Jamaica rum, it is necessary to pro- 
cure some of the tops, or other parts of the sugar 
canes, and to put them in a still, in the proportion 
of apoundAveight to two gallons of pure flavourless 
spirit, and one gallon of pure water. The distil- 
lation may be carried on by a brisk heat, provided 
there is a quantity of common salt, (in the propor- 
tion of an ounce to each gallon of liquid in the 
still), to prevent the mucilaginous matter from ari- 
sing with the sjjirit. The product when rectified 
and coloured by burnt Sugiu-, will possess every 
character of excellent rum. 

To obtain rum from molasses. 
Mix two or three gallons of water with one gal- 
lon of molasses, and to every 200 gallons of tliis 
mixture add a gallon of yeast. Once or twice a 
day the head as it rises is stirred in, and in three 
or four days, 2 gallons more of water is added to 
each gallon of molasses originally used, and the 
same quantity of yeast as at first. Four, five, or 
six days after this, a portion of yeast is added as 
before, and about an ounce of jalap root powdered, 
(or in winter one ounce and a half), on which the 
fermentation proceeds with great violence, and iu 
three or four days, the wash is fit for the still: one 
hundred gallons of this wash is computed to yield 
twenty-two gallons of spirit from one to ten'over 
proof. 

To prepare gin as in Holland. 
The grist is composed of ten quarters of malt, 
ground considerably finer tlian malt distillers' bar- 
ley grist, and three quarters of rye-meal; or, more 
frequently, of ten quarters of rye and three quar- 
ters of malt-meal. The ten quarters are first 
mashed, with the least quantity of cold water it is 
possible to blend it with, and when uniformly in- 
corporated, as much boiling water is added as 
forms it into a thin batter: it is then put into one, 
two, or moi-e casks, or gylt tuns, with a much less 
quantity of yeast than is usually employed by our 
distillers. Generally, on the third day, theDuteh 
distillers add the malt or lye-meal, prepared in a 
similar manner, but not before it comes to the tem- 
I)erature of the fermenting wash; at the same time 
adding as much yeast as at first. 

The principal secret is the management of the 
mashing part of the business, in first thoroughly 
mixing the malt with the cold water, and in subse- 
quently adding the due proportion of boiling water, 
that it may still remain sufficiently diluted after 
the addition of the fine meal; also in well rousing 
all together in the back, that the wash may be di- 
lute enough for distilling, without endangering its 
burning to the bottom. 

Rectification into Hollands gnt. 
To every 20 gallons of spirit of the second ex- 
traction, about the strength of proof, take of juniper 
berries, 3 lbs. oil of junipei-, 2 oz. and distil with 
a slow tire, until the feints begin to rise, then 
change tlie receiving can; this produces tiie best 
Rotterdam gin. 
An inferior kind is made with a still less pro- 



DISTILLATION. 



143 



portion of berries, sweet fennel seed, and Stras- 
burg turpentine, without a drop of oil of juniper; 
and a belter sort, but inferior to the Rotterdam, is 
made at Weesoppe. The distiller's wash atSchee- 
dam and Rotterdam, is lighter than at Weesoppe. 
Strasburg turpentine is of a yellowisli-brown co- 
lour, a very fragrant agreeable smell, yet the least 
acrid of the turpentine. The juniper berries are 
so chea(> in Holland, that they must have other rea- 
sons than mere cheapness for being so much more 
sparing of their consumption than our distillers. 
To make malt spirit. 

Mix 60 quarters ot oarley grist, ground low, and 
20 quarters of coarse ground pale malt, with 250 
barrels of water, at about 170 degrees Fahrenheit. 
Take out 30 barrels of the wort, and add to this 10 
store of fresh porter yeast, and when the remain- 
ing wort is cooled down to 55 degrees, add 10 
quarters more malt, previously mixed with 30 bar- 
rels of warm water; stir the whole well together, 
and put it to ferment along with the reserved yeast- 
ed wort: this wash will be found to weigh, by the 
saccharometer, from 28 to 32 lbs. per barrel, more 
than water. In the course of 12 or 14 days, the 
yeast head will fall quite .flat, and tlie wash will 
have a vinous smell and taste, and not weigh more 
than from 2 to 4 lbs. per barrel more than water. 
Some now put 20 ILs. of common salt, and 30 lbs. 
of flour, and in 3 or 4 days put it into the still, pre- 
viously stirring it well together. Every G gallons 
of this wash will produce one gallon of spirit, at 
from 1 to 10 over proof; or 18 gallons of spirit from 
each quarter of grain. 

English geneva. 

The best English geneva is made as follows: 
Take of juniper-berries, 3 lbs. proof spirit, 10 gal- 
lons, water, 4 do. Draw off by a gentle fire, till 
the feints begin to rise, and make up the goods to 
the required strength with clear water. 
To distil spirits from carrots. 

Take one ton and eight stOTie of carrots, which, 
after being exposed a few days to dry, will weigh 
about IGO stone. Tlie wholie being cut, pi't one- 
third of the quantity into a copper, wiili twenty- 
four gallons of water, and after covering them up 
close, reduce the whole into a pul[). The other 
two-thirds are to be treated in the same manner, 
and as the pulp is taken from the copper, it is car- 
ried to the press, where tlie juice is extracted with 
great facility. The liquor obtained will amount to 
200 gallons, and will be of a rich sweet taste, i-e- 
sembling wort. It is then put into the copperwilh 
on^pound of hops, and suffered to boil about five 
hours, when it is put into the cooler, to remain till 
the heat comes down to 66 degrees. From the 
cooler it is discharged into the vat, where six 
quarts of yeasi are put to it, in the usual manner. 
Let it work forty-eight hours, or till 5S deg., when 
tlie yeast begins to fall. Then heat twelve gallons 
of unfermented juice, and put it to the liquor, and 
the heat will be raised to 65 deg. Work afresh for 
twenty-four hoiu-s longer, tiie liquor gradually low- 
ering, as before, from 66 to 58°. Tun the whole 
into half-hogsheads, to work from the bung. After 
standing three days in the casks, fifty gallons may 
be drawn off, which is rectified the next day with- 
out any additional substance. Twelve gallons of 
spirit will be obtained. 

To make crrack. 

Arrack is no other tlian a spirit produced by dis- 
tillation from a vegetable juice called toddy, which 
flows out of the cocoa-nut tree. The operator pro- 
vides himself with a parcel of earthen pots, climbs 
up the trunk of a cocoa-tree; and when he comes to 
the boughs, he cuts off one of the small knots or 
buttons, and applies the mouth of a bottle to the 
Wound, fastening it to the bough with a bandage; 



in the same manner he ctrts off others, and pro- 
ceeds till the whole number is employed: this done, 
he leaves them until the next morning, when he 
takes ofl' tlje bottles, which are mostly filled, and 
empties the juice into the proper recejjtacle. 
When a sufficient quantity is produced, the whole, 
put together, is left to ferment. When the fer- 
mentation is over, and the liquor is a little tart, it 
is put into the still, and fire being made, the still 
is suffered to work as long as that which comes off 
has any considerable taste of spirit. The liquor 
thus procured is the low wine of arrack; and is dis- 
tilled again to separate some of its watery parts, 
and rectify it to that very weak kind of proof-spi- 
rit in which state we find it 

Tungusian arrack is a spirituous liquor made by 
the Tartars of Tungusia, of mare's milk, left to 
sour, and afterwards distilled twiee oi- thrice be- 
tween two earthen pots closely stopped, whence 
the liquor runs through a small wooden pipe. 
To fine spirits. 

Mix a small quantity of wheat flour in' water fn 
if for making ])aste, and pour the same into the 
vessel. The whole is then to be well roused, unci 
in a siiort time tlie contents will become bright. 
'Jo extract alcohol froin potatoes. 

Take 100 lbs. of potatoes well washed, dress 
them by steain, and let them be bruised to powder 
with a roller, fcic. In the mean time take 4 lbs. of 
ground malt, steep it in lukewarm water, and tiien 
pour into the fermenting back, and pour on it 
twelve quarts of boiling water; this water is stirred 
about, and the bi-uised potatoes thrown in, and well 
stirred about with wooden rakes, till every part of 
the potatoes is well saturated with the liquor. 

Immediately, six or eight ounces of yeast is to be 
mixed with twenty-eight gallons of water of a pro- 
per warmth to make the whole mass of tlie tempe- 
rature of from 59 to 66 degrees; lliere is to be 
added half a pint to a pint of good brandy. 

Tlie fermenting back must be placed in a room, 
to be kept by means of a stove at a teraperatur* 
from 66 to 73 degrees. The mixture must be left 
to remain at rest. 

The back must be large enough to suffer the m,iss 
to rise seven or eiglit inches witiiout running over 
If, notwithstanding this precaution, it does so, a 
little must be taken out, and returned wjien it falls 
h little; the back is tb.en covered again, and the 
fermentation is suflered to finish without touchin" 
it — which takes place generally in five or six dava. 
This is known by its being perceived that the 'li~ 
quor is quite clear, and the potatoes fallen to the 
bottom of the back. The fluid is decanted, and 
the potatoes pressed dry. 

The distillation is by vapour, with a wooden or 
copper still on the plan of Count Rumford. The 
product of the first distillation is low wines. 

When the fermentation has been favourable, 
from every 100 lbs. of potatoes, six quarts and up- 
wards of good brandy, of 20 degrees of the areo- 
meter, are obtained; which, put into new casks, 
and afterwards browned with burnt sugar, like tlie 
French brandies, is not to be distinguished from 
them. 

One thousand pounds of potatoes at twice, gives 
sixty to seventy cjuarts of good brandy. The resi- 
due of the distillation is used as food for slock. 
I'o extract potash from potatoe tops. 

It is necessary to cut otf the potatoe tops the mo- 
ment that the flowers begin to fall, as that is the 
period of their greatest vigour; they must be cut 
oft" at four or five inches from the ground, with a 
very sharp knife. Fresh sprouts spring, which 
will not only answer all the purposes of conduct- 
ing the roots to maturity, but tend to an increase of 
their volume, as tliey, (the sprouts) demand less 



J 44 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



nourislitncnt than the old top. The tops may he 
suffered to remain on the ground where cut; in 8 
or 10 days they are sufficiently dry without turn- 
ing, and may be carted, either home or to a cor- 
ner of the field, where a hole is to be (lug in the 
earth, about 5 feet square and 2 feet deep, (the 
combustion M'ould be too rapid, and the' ashes cool 
too quick, and thereby diminisli the quantity of al- 
kali were they burnt in the open airl The aslies 
must be icei)t red-hot as long as possible: when the 
fire is strung, tops th:it are only imperfectly dried 
may be thrown in, and even green ones will then 
burn well enough. 

The ashes exiracted from the hole must he put 
in a vessel, and boiling water be poured upon it, 
as then the water must be evaporated: for these 
two operations potato tops may be used alone as 
firing in the furnace, and tlie ashes collected. 
There remains, after the evaporation, a dry saline 
reddish substance, known in commerce under the 
name of srt//«; the more the ashes are boiled, the 
greyer and more valualde the saliri becomes. 

The salin must then be calcined in a very hot 
oven, until the whole mass presents an unifiwni 
reddisli brown. In cooling it remains dry, and in 
fragments — blueisli within, and wliite on the sur- 
face; in wiiich state it takes tiie name of potass. 

The ashes, exliausted of their alkaline principle, 
afford excellent manure for land intended to be 
planted wiili potatoes. 

To make brandy from beet root. 

For the preparation of l)randy, the water used in 
the first boiling of the roots, is boiled again, and 
poured out on the residuum from the first cxpres- 
.sion of the pounded roots; this must stand for a 
(lay or two, after whicli it is expressed, anil the re- 
maining dry pulp serves as a good food for cattle. 
The juice obtained in this way is mixed with the 
waste parts of the syrup and tlie mucilage which 
remains after the expression of the saccharine crys- 
tals, and all boiled together till half of it is evapo- 
rated. The liquor is then poured into a coop ex- 
posed to a temperature of 45 deg. Fahrenlieit, and 
cooled to f>5 deg. Having added a proportionate 
•luantity of yeast, it is left to ferment, and in 
3 or 4 days after tlie distillation maybe undertaken. 
To obtain sugar from beet root. 

The beet roots best calculated for the extraction 
of sugar, are those which have a soft flesh, whitish 
towards the edges and not growing above ground. 
After being cleaned, they are boiled, cut into pieces 
and pounded in a wooden trough with wooden 
stampers, and afterwards pressed. The juice thus 
obtained is immediately put into a polished copper 
kettle and simmered, during wl»ich time the scum 
must continually be taken off*. To one hundred 
quarts of this juice add two ounces or less of slack- 
ened lime, diluted so ao to have the appearance of 
milk, and continue the boiling till the juice is thick- 
ened to the half of it. Having strained it through 
a woollen cloth, thicken it to the consistency of a 
syrup, which afterwards is put into glass, stone, or 
vooden vessels. These being placed nepr a mo- 
derate fire, saccharine crystals appear, which being 
freed by expression from the mucilaginous juice, a 
very good raw sugar is obtained. 

To make proof spirit. 

The London College mentions no proportions, 
but requires the specific gravity of .930; tlie Dub- 
lin advises the mixture of four measures of spirit 
with three of water, and the Edinburgh College or- 
ders equal measures of their alcohol and water, the 
specific gravity of which mixture they quote as 
.935. Tl)e chemists in London are in the habit of 
making their proof spirit, by taking half spirit of 
v'ine and half water, whenever it is required, as 
they seldom or never keep it in tliat state. I 



To make tincture of salt of tartar. 

Melt 6 oz. of salt of tartar in a crucible; powder 
it while hot, and immediately pour upon the pow- 
der a quart of spirit of wine, and digest it for seve- 
ral days. 

Tincture of antiinont/. 

Take of crude antimony, I oz. ; salt of tartar, and 
saltpetre, eacli '2 oz. Mix and throw tliem into a 
red hot crucible; when melted, pour them out into 
an iron mortar, powder the mass, while hot, and 
before it grows cold ])ut it into a bottle with a suffi- 
cient quantity of spirit of wine. 

This and tlie preceding are to be considered as 
alcoliol made without distillation, but they receive 
an alkaline taint, which renders them impure. 

All these spirits are stimulants, but more em- 
ployed as luxuries than medicines 



LIQUEURS. 



To make ratafia d''ar.gelique. 

Take of angelica seeds, 1 drachm; stalks of an- 
gelica, bitter almonds, blanched, each 4oz.; proof 
spirit, 12 pints; white sugar, 2 lbs. Digest, strain, 
and filter. 

Anisette de Bourdeavx. 

Take of sugar, 9 oz. ; oil of aniseed, 6 drops. 
Rub tliem together, and add by degrees, spirit of 
wine, 2 pints; water, 4 pints. Filter. 

To make real creme des barbades. 

Take 2 dozen middling sized lemons; 6 large 
citrons; loaf sugar, 2S lbs. ; fresh balm leaves, ^ lb. ; 
spirit of wine, 2^ gallons; water Sj ditto. This will 
])roduce about 7 gallons, full measure. Cut tha 
lemons and citrons in thin slices, and put thera mto 
a cask; pour upon them the spirit of wine, bung 
down close, and let it stand ten days or a fortnight j 
then break the sugar, and boil it for half an hour 
in the three gallons and a half of water, skimming 
it frequently; tlien chop the balm-leaves, put them 
into a large pan, and pour upon them the boiling 
liquor, and let it stand till quite co'«'; then strain 
it through a lawn sieve, and put it to the spirits, 
&c. in tlie cask; bung down close, and in a fort- 
night draw it ofl"; strain it through a jelly bag, and 
let it remain to fine; then bottle it, 
Eau de barbades. 

Take of fresh orange peel, 1 oz. ; fresh lemon- 
peel, 4 oz.; cloves, ^ drachm; coriander, I do.; 
proof spirit, 4 pints. Distil in a bath heat and add 
white sugar in powder. 

To make ratafia de cafe. 

Take of roasted coffee, ground, 1 lb. ; proof spi- 
rit, 1 gallon; sugar, 20 oz. Digest for a week. 
Ratafia de cassis. 

Take of ripe black currants, 6 lbs.; cloves, -J 
drachm; cinnamon, 1 ditto; proof spirit, 18 pints; 
sugar, 3J lbs. Digest for a fortnight. 
Ratafia des cerises. 

Take of morello cherries, with their kernels, 
bruised, 8 lbs; proof spirit, 8 pints. Digest for a 
month, strain with expression, and then add 1^ lbs. 
of sugar. 

Ratafia de chocolat. 

Take of Caracca cocoa nuts, roasted, I lb. ; West 
India ditto, roasted 5 lb.; proof spirit, 1 gallon. 
Digest for a fortnight, strain, and then add sugar, 
1^ ibs. ; tincture of vanilla, 30 drops, 
Eau divine. 

Take of spirit of wine, 1 gallon; essence of le- 
mons, and essence of berganiot, each 1 drachm: 
Distil in a bath heat: add sugar 4 lbs. dissolved in 
2 gallons of pure water: and, lastly, orange flower 
water, 5 oz. 

Elephant's milk. 

Take of benjamin, 2 oz.; spirit of wine, 1 pint} 



DISTILLATION. 



145 



boiling water, '2}j pints. "Wlien cold, sti-ain; and 
add sugar, 1^ lbs. 

Ratafia de grenoble. 

Take of small wild black cherries, with their 
kernels, bruised, 12 lbs.; proof spirit, 6 gallons. 
Digest for a month, strain, and then add 12 lbs. of 
sugar. A little citron peel n'lay also be added at 
pleasure. 

JMarasqiiin de groseilles. 

Take of gooseberries, quite ripe, 102 lbs. black 
cherr)' leaves, 12 lbs. 13ruise and ferment; distil 
aiid rectify the spirit. To each pint of this spirit 
add as much distilled wSter, and sugar, 1 lb. 
Jltiile de Venus. 

Take of flowers of the wild carrot, picked, 6 oz. 
—spirit of wine, 10 pints. Distil in a bath heat. 
To the spirit add as much syrup of capillaire; it 
may be coloured with cochineal. 
JJquodilla. 

Take the thin peel of six oranges and 6 lemons, 
sleep thera in a gallon of brandy or rum, close 
stopped, for two or three days; then take 6 quarts 
of water, and 3 lbs. of loaf sugar clarified witiithe 
whites of three eggs. Let it boil a quarter of an 
hour, then strain it through a fine sieve, and let it 
stand till cold; strain the brandy from the peels, 
and add the juice of 5 oranges and 7 lemons to each 
gallon. Keep it close stopped up six weeks, then 
bottle it 

Fresh marasquiii, a tienu Uqiieiir. 

Advantage has not hitlierto been taken of the 
fruit of the St Lucian tree, (prMnt^s mahaleb, Lin.) 
This small black fruit is of a very disagreeable 
taste, but it may produce an excellent liqueur. J\l. 
Cadet de Vaux, recognizing in this little cherry 
un aromatic savour, thought it would serve to make 
a kind of kirschwasser. In effect, it ferments and 
fuinislies by distillation a Prussic alcohol; but by 
putting it first to infuse in brandy for some time, 
there is obtained, by distillation in a bath heat, a 
spirit of a vei"y agreeable aromatic, and wliich, pro- 
perly sweetened, forms a liqueur comparable to the 
best miu-asquin of Italy. It is necessary to bruise 
the fruit and the nuts before infusing tliem in bran- 
dy. The spirit must also be brought back to 21 
degrees before sweetening it. Then add nearly 12 
oz. of sugar to every quart of liqueur, — Journal de 
1^,'iarmacie, 1S21. 

Ratafia de brou de noix. 

Take of young walnuts, whose shells are not yet 
hardened, in number, 60, — brandy, 4 pints, — sugar, 
12 oz, — mace, cinnamon, and cloves, eaci\ 15 gr. 
Digestrfor 2 or 3 months, press out the liquor, fil- 
ter, and keep it for 2 or 3 years. 

Ratafia de noyearu 

Take of peach or apricot kernels, with their 
Bhells bruised, in number, 120, proof sjjirit, 4 pints, 
sugar, 10 oz. Some reduce the spirit of wine to 
proof with the juice of apricots or peaches, to make 
this liqueur. 

Creme de noyeaii de J^tartimqne. 

Take 20 lbs. of loaf sugar, — 3 gallons of spirit 
of wine, — 3 pints of orange flower water, — 1^ lb. 
of bitter almonds — 2 drachms of essence of lemon, 
und 4^ gallons of water. The produce will exceed 
8 gallons. 

Put 2 lbs. of the loaf sugar into a jug or can, 
pour upon it the essence of lemon, and 1 quart of 
the spirit of wine; stir it till the sugai' is dissolved, 
end the essence completely incorporated. Bruise 
the almonds, and put them into a 4 gallon stone 
bottle or cask, add the remainder of tlie spirit of 
wine, and the mixture from the jug or can: let it 
stand a week or ten days, shaking it frequently. 
Then add the remainder of die sugar, and boil it 
in tlie 4^ gallons of water, for three quarters of an 
hour, taking oft' tlie scum as it rises. When cold. 



put it in a cask; add the spirit, almonds, &c. froia 
the stone bottle; and lastly, the orange flower wa- 
ter. Bung it down close, and let it stand three 
weeks or a month; then strain it through a jelly 
bag, and wiien fine bottle it off. When the pink 
is wanted, add cochineal, in powder, at the rate of 
half a drachm, or two scruples, to a quart. 
Ratafia d'ecorces d'oranges. 

Take of fresh peel of Seville oranges, 4 oz.— 
proof spirit, 1 gallon, — sugar, 1 lb. Digest for ft 
hours. 

Ratafia defieiirs d^oranges. 

Take of fresh flowers of orange-tree, 2 lbs. — 
proof spirit, 1 gallon, — sugar, Ij lbs. Digest for ff 
hours. 

Creme d-orange of superior fiavour. 

T.ake 3 dozen middling sized oranges, orange 
flower water, 2 quarts, loaf sugar, 18 lbs. spirit of 
wine, 2 gallons, tincture of saffron, H oz. water, 
4^ gallons. This will produce 7^ gallons. 

Cut the oranges in slices, put them into a cask, 
add the spirit and orange flower water, let it stand 
a fortnight, then boil the sugar in the water for 
half an hour, pour it out, and let it stand till cold, 
then add it to the mixture in the cask, and put in 
the tincture of saffron. Let it remain a fortnight 
longer; then strain, and proceed as directud in the 
receipt for cremes de Barbades, and a very fine 
cordial will be produced. 

Fme brandy shrub. 

T.ike 8 oz. of citric acid, — 1 gallon of porter, — 
3 gallons of raisin wine, — 2 quarts of orange flowe* 
water, — 7 gallons of good brandy, — 5 ditto of watev. 
This will produce 16 gallons. First, dissolve the 
citric acid in the water, then add to it the brandy; 
next, mix the raisin wine, porter, and orange flower ' 
water together; and lastly, mix the whole: and in 
a week or ten days, it will be ready for drinking, 
and of a very mellow flavour. 
Rum shrub. 

Leave out the brandy and porter, and add 1 gal- 
lon more raisin wine, 6 lbs. of honey, and 10 gal- 
lons of good flavoured rum. 

Currant shrub. 

Take white currants, when quite ripe, pick them 
off the stalks, and bruise them; strain out the juice 
through a cloth, and to two quarts of the juice put 
2 lbs. of loaf sufjar; when it is dissolved add to it a 
gallon of rum, tfien strain it through a flannel bag 
that will keep in the jelly, and it will run oft" clear; 
tiien bottle it for use. 

Usquebaugh. 

Usquebaugh is a strong compound liquor, chiefly 
taken by way of dram; it is made in the highest 
perfection at Drogheda in Ireland. The following 
are the ingredients, and tlie proportions in which 
they are to be used. 

Take of best brandy, 1 gallon, — raisins, stoned, 
1 lb. — cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and cardamoms, 
i each 1 oz. crusiied in a mortar, — saft'ron, half aa 
ounce, — rind of 1 Seville orange, and brown suga» 
candy, 1 lb. Shake these well eveiy day, for at 
least 14 days, and it will, at the expiration of that 
time, be ready to be fined for use. 

Another method. — Take of nutmegs, cloves, and 
cinnamon, each 2 ounces; of the seeds of anise, cariv» 
way, and coriander, each 4 ounces; liquorice root, 
•sliced, half a pound; bruise the seeds and spices, 
and put them together with the liquorice, into tl>e 
still, with 11 gallons of proof spirit, and 2 gallons 
of water; distil with a pretty brisk fire. As soou 
as the still begins to work, fasten to the nozel of 
the worm 2 ounces of English saffron, tied up in a 
cloth, that the liquor may run through it, and ex- 
tract all its tincture. When the operation is finish- 
ed, sweeten witii fine sugai-. — This liqueur may be 
much improved by the following additions; Digest 



146 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



4 pounds of stoned raisins, 3 pounds of dates, and 
2 pounds of sljced lifpiorice root, in 2 gallons of 
■water, for 12 iiours. When the liquor is strained 
off, and has deposited all sediment, decant it gently 
into the -vessel containing the usquebaugh. 
Ratafia a la violette. 
Take of Florentine oiris root, 2 dr. — archel, 1 
oz. — spirit of wine, 4 pints. Digest, strain, and 
add sugar, 4 lbs. — Liqueurs are also made bj- ad- 
ding Hungary-water, honey-water, eau de Cologne, 
and several otiier spirits, to an equal quantity of 
simple syrup, or common capillaire. 



COMPOUND SPIRITS, OR CORDIALS. 

General Rides. 

The perfection of this grand branch of distillery 
depends upon the observation of the following ge- 
neral rules, which are easy to be observed and 
practised: — 1. The artist must always be careful to 
use a well cleansed spirit, or one freed from its 
own essential oil. For as a compound cordial is 
nothing more than a spirit impregnated with the 
essential oil of the ingredients, it is necessary that 
the spirit should have deposited its own. 2. Let 
the time of previous digestion be proportioned to 
Iha, tenacity of the ingredients, or the ponderosity 
of their oil. 3. Let the strength of the fire be pro- 
portioned to the ponderosity' of the oil intended to 
be raised with the spirit. 4. Let a due proportion 
of the finest parts of the essential oil be united with 
the spirit; the grosser and less fragrant parts of the 
oil not giving the spirit so agreeable a flavour, and 
at the same time rendering it thick and unsightly. 
This may in a great measure be effected by leaving 
out the feints, and making up to proof with fine 
soft water in their stead. 

A careful observ.ition of these four i-ules will 
render tiiis extensive part of distillation far more 
perfect than it is at present. Nor will there be 
any occasion for the use of burnt alum, white of 
eggs, isinglass, &c. to fine down the cordial waters, 
for tliey will presently be fine, sweet, and plea- 
sant. 

To make aniseed cordial. 

Take of aniseed, bruised, 2 lbs. — proof spirit, 
12^ gallons, — water, 1 gallon. Draw off 10 gallons 
with a moderate fire. This water should never be 
reduced below pi-oof: because the large quantity of 
oil with which it is impregnated, will render the 
goods milky and foul, when brought down below 
proef. But if there is a necessity for doing this, 
their transparency may be restored by filtration. 
Cinnamon cordial. 

Take 2 pennyweights of oil of cassia lignea, dis- 
solved with sugar and spirit of wine; l^ gallons, at 
1 in 6, — cardamom seeds, husked, 1 ounce, — or- 
ange and lemon peel dried, of each, 1 oz. Fine 
with ^ a pint of alum water; sweeten with loaf su- 
gai", not exceeding 2 lbs. and make up 2 gallons 
measure with the water in which the sugar is dis- 
solved. Colour with burnt sugar. 

Strong cinnamon cordial. 

Take 8 pounds of fine cinnamon, bruised, — 17 
gallons of clear rectified spirit, and 2 gallons of 
■water. Put them into the still, and digest them 
twent3--four hours with a gentle heat; after which, 
draw off sixteen gallons by a pretty strong heat. 
Cara-va,y cordial. 

I" or 20 gallons. Take 1^ ounces of oil of cara- 
way, 20 drops of cassia-ligiiea oil, 5 drops of es- 
sence of orange-peel, 5 drops of tne essence of le- 
mon, 13 gallons of spirits, one in five, and 8 lbs. of 
loaf sugar. Make it up and fine it down. 
Cedrat cordial. 

The cedrat is a species of citron, and very high- 



ly esteemed in Italy, where it grows naturally. 
The fruit is difficult to be procured in this coun- 
tiT; bin, as the essential oil is often imported from 
Italy, it maybe made with it as follows: Take of 
the finest loaf-sugar, powdered, ^ lb. Put it into 
a glass mortar, with 120 drops of the essence of ce- 
drat; rub them together with a glass pestle, and 
put tiiem into a glass alembic, with a gallon of fine 
proof spirit, and a quart of water. Place the alem- 
bic in a bath heat, and draw off one gallon, or till 
the feints begin to rise ; then dulcify with fine su- 
gar. This is considered the finest cordial yet 
known; it will therefore be necessary to be parti- 
cidarly careful that the sjjirit is perfectly clean, 
and, as much as possible, free from any flavour of 
its own. 

Citron cordial. 

Take of diy yellow rinds of citrons, 3 lbs. 
orange-peel, 2 lbs. nutmegs, bruised, ^ 11). proof 
spirit, 10^ gallons, water, 1 gi>.llon. Digest Mith a 
gentle heat; then draw oft' 10 gallons in a bath heat; 
and dulcify with fine sugar. 

Clove cordial. 

Take of cloves, bruised, 4 lbs. pimento, or all- 
spice, 5 lb. proof spirit, 16 gallons. Digest the 
mixture 12 hours in a gentle heat, and tlien draw 
oft' 15 gallons with a pretty brisk fire. The water 
may be coloured red, either by a strong tincture 
of cochineal, alkanet, or corn poppy-flowers. It 
may be dulcified at pleasure witli double refined 
sugar. 

Coriander cordial. 

For 3 gallons. Take 7 quarts of spirits, 2 lbs. 
of coriander seed, 1 oz. of caraway seed, 6 drops 
of the oil of oraTige, and 2 lbs of sugar. Fill up 
with water. The coriander seed must be bruised 
and steeped in the spirits for ten or twelve days, 
and well stirred two or three times a day. Fine it 
the same as gin. 

Ean de bigarade. 

Take the outer or yellow part of the peels of 14 
bigarades (a kind of orange), ^ oz. of nutmegs, ^ 
oz. of mace, 1 gallon of fine proof spirit, and 2 
quarts of water. Digest all these together two 
diiys in a close vessel; after which, draw oft' a gal- 
lon with a gentle fire, and dulcify with fine sugar. 
Gold cordial. 

Take of the roots of angelica, sliced, 4 lbs. rai- 
sins, stoned, 2 lbs. coriander seeds, \ lb. cara- 
way seeds and cinnamon, each h lb. cloves, 2 oz. 
figs and liquorice root, sliced, each, 1 lb. proof 
spirit, 11 gallons, water 2 gallons. Digest two 
days; and draw oft' by a gentle heat, till the feints 
begin to rise; hanging in a piece of linen, fastened 
to the mouth of tiie worm, an ounce of English saf- 
fron. Then dissolve S lbs. oi' sugar in three quarts 
of rose-water, and add to it the distilled liquor. 

The above cordial derives its name from a quan- 
tity of leaf gold being formerly added to it; but this 
is now generally disused, 

Lovage cordial. 

For 20 gallons. Take of the fresh roots of lov- 
age, valerian, celeiy, and sweet fennel, each 4oz. 
essential oil of caraway and savin, each 1 ounce, 
spirit of wine, 1 pint, proof spirit, 12 gallons, loaf- 
sugar, 12 lbs. Steep the roots and seeds in the 
spirits for 14 days; then dissolve the oils in the 
spirit of wine, and add them to the undulcified cor- 
dial drawn oft' from the other ingi-edients; dissolve 
tiie sugar in the water for making up, and fine, if 
necessary, with alum. 

Lemon cordial. 

Take of dried lemon-peel, 4 lbs. proof spirit, 
lOJ gallons, water, 1 gallon. Draw oft' ten gallons 
by a gentle fire, and dulcify witli fine sugar. 
J\i'ectu'\ 

For 20 gallons. Take 15 gallons of red ratafia. 



DISTILLATION. 



147 



J oz. of cassia-oil, and an equal quantity of the oil 
of caraway seeds. Dissolve in half a pint of spirit 
of wine, and make up with orange wine, so as to 
fill up tlie cask. Sweeten, if wanted, by adding a 
small lump of sugar in the glass. 
JVoyemi. 

Take l^ gallons of French brandy, 1 in 5, 6 oz. 
of the best French prunes, 2 oz. of celery, 3 oz. of 
the kernels of apricots, nectarines, and peaches, 
sind 1 oz. of bitter almonds, all gently bruised, es- 
sence of orange-peel, and essence of lemon-peel, 
of each 2 penny-weights, ^ a pound of loaf-sugar. 
Let the whole stand ten days or a fortnight; then 
draw- off, and add to the clear noyeau as much rose 
vater as will make it up to two gallons. 
Orange cordial. 

Take of the yellow part of fresh orange-peel, 5 
lbs. proof spirit, lOA gallons, water, 2 gallons. 
Draw off ten gallons with a gentle fire. 
Peppermint cordial. 

For twenty gallons. Take 13 gallons of recti- 
fied spirits, one in fiveunder hydrometer proof, 12 
lbs. of loaf sugai", 1 pint of spirit of wine, that will 
fire gunpowder, 15 pennyweiglits troy of oil of 
])eppermint, water, as much as will fill up the cask, 
vhich should be set up on end, after the whole has 
been well roused, and a cock for drawing ofl' plac- 
ed in it. 

Matafia. 

This is a liquor prepared from different kinds 
of fruits, and is of different colours according to 
the fruits made use of. These fruits should be ga- 
thered when in their greatest perfection, and the 
largest and most beautiful of them chosen for the 
purpose. The following is the method of making 
red ralajia, tine and soft: Take of the black-heart 
cherries, 24 lbs. black cherries, 4 lbs. raspberries 
and sti'awberries, each, 3 lbs. Pick tlie fruit from 
their stalks, and bruise them, in which state let 
tliem continue 12 hom-s; then press out the juice; 
and to every pint of it, add ^ lb. of sugar. When 
the sugar is dissolved, run the whoJe tlu-ongh the 
filtering bag and add to it three quarts of proof 
spirit. Then take of ciimamon, 4 oz. mace, 1 oz. 
and cl6ves, 2 drachms. Bruise these spices, put 
tliem into an alembic with a gallon of proof spiilt 
and two quarts of water, and draw oa a gallon with 
a brisk fire. Add as much of tliis spicy spirit to 
the ratafia as will render it agreeable: about one- 
fourth is the usual proportion. 

Dry or sharp ratafia. 

Take of cherries and gooseberries, each SO lbs. 
mulberries, 7 lbs. raspberries, 10 lbs. Pisk all 
these fruits clean from their stalks, &c. bruise 
them, and let them stand twelve hours; but lo not 
suffer them to ferment. Press out the juice, and 
to every pint add tliree ounces of sugar. When 
the sugar is dissolved, run it through the filtering 
bag, and to every five pints of liquor add four pints 
of proof spirit; together with the same proportion 
of spirit drawn from spices. 

Common ratafia. 

Take of nutmegs, 8 oz. bitter almonds, 10 lbs. 
Lisbon sugar, 8 lbs. ambergris, 10 grains. Infuse 
these ingredients three days in 10 gallons of proof 
spirit, and filter it through a flannel bag for use. 
'I'he putmegs and bitter almonds must be bruised, 
and the ambergris rubbed with the Lisbon sugar in 
a marble mortar, before tliey are infused in the 
spirit. 

Cherry brandy. 

One of the best and most common ways of mak- 
ing cherry brandy, is to put the cherries (being first 
clean picked from the stalks) into a vessel, till it 
be about half full; then fill up with rectified mo- 
lasses brandy, which is generally used for this com- 
pound, and when they have beea infused sixteen or 



eighteen days, draw off the liquor by degi-ees, as 
wanted: wlien drawn off fill the vessel a second 
time nearly to the top, let it stand about a month, 
and then draw it oft' as there is occasion. The 
same cherries maj^ be used a third time by cover- 
ing them with over-proof brandy, and letting it in- 
fuse for six or seven weeks; when drawn off for 
use, as much water must be added as the brandy 
was over-proof, and tlie cherries must be after- 
wards pressed as long as any liquor remains in 
them, before being cast away. 

When drawn off the second time, the liquor will 
be somewhat inferior to the first, when more sugar, 
witli half an ounce of cinnamon and cloves beaten, 
may be added to twenty gallons of it; but there 
should only be half the quantity of cinnamon and 
cloves in each twenty gallons of the first infusion. 

Jlnother method. — Take 72 pounds of cherries, 
half red and half black — mash or squeeze them to 
pieces with the hands, and add to them three gal- 
lons of brandy, letting them sleep for 24 hours — 
then put the mashed clierries and liquor into a 
canvas bag a little at a time, and press it as long as 
it will run. Sweeten it with loaf sugar, and let it 
stand a month — then bottle it off, putting a lump 
of loaf sugar into every bottle. 

Another. — To every four quarts of brandy, put 
four pounds of red clierries, two pounds of black, 
one quart of raspberries, with a few cloves, a stick 
of cinnamon, and a little orange peel; let these 
stand a month close stopped; then bottle it off, put- 
ting a lump of l".af sugar into every bottle. 
uilach cherry brandj. 

Stone eight poqnds of black cherries, and put on 
them a gallon of brandy. Bruise the stones in a 
mortar, and then add them to the brandy. Cover 
them close, and let them stand a month or six 
weeks. Tiien pour it clear from tlie sediment, and 
bottle it. Morello cherries, managed in this man- 
ner, make a line rich cordial. 

Caratuay brandy. 

Steep an ounce of caraway seeds, and six ounces 
of loaf sugar, in a quart of brandy; let it stand nine 
days, and then draw it oft'. 

Lemon brandy. 

Put five quarts of water to one gallon of brandy, 

tr.ke two dozen of lemons, two pounds of the best 

sugar, and three pints of milk. Pare the lemons 

very thin, and lay the peel to steep in the brandy 

twelve hom-s. Squeeze the lemons upon the sugai', 

j then put the water to it, and mix all tlie ingredients 

I together. Boil tlie milk, and pour it in boiling. 

Let it stand 24 hours and then strain it. 

Orange brandy. 

Put die chips of eighteen Seville oranges in three 
quarts of brandy, and let tliem steep a fortnight in 
a stone-bottle close stopped. Boil two quarts of 
spring-water, with a pound and a half of the finest 
sugar, nearly an hour very gently. Cliu'ify the 
water and sugar with tlie white of an egg, then 
strain it through a jelly-bag, and boil it neai-ly half 
away. When it is cold, strain the brandy into the 
syrup. 

Jiaspberry brandy. 

Take a pint of water and two quarts of brandy, 
and put tliem into a pitcher large enough to hold 
them and four pints of raspbeiTies. Put in half ;\ 
pound of loaf sugar, and let it remain for a we^Jv 
close covered. Then take a piece of flannel, with 
a piece of holland over it, and let it run Uu-ough 
by degi'ees. It may be racked into other bottles a 
week after, and tlien it will be perfectly fine. 

Another method. — Raspberry brandy is infused 
nearly after the same manner as cherry brandy, 
and drawn off with about the same addition of 
brandy to what is di-awn off from tiie first, second, 
and tliird infusion, and dulcified accordingly, first 



148 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



making it of a bright deep colour; omitting cinna- 
mon and cloves in the first, l)ut not in tlie second 
and third infusion. The second infusion will be 
somewhat i)aler than the first, and must be height- 
ened in colour, by adding cherry brandy about a 
ijuart, with ten ormore gallons of raspberry brandy; 
and the third infusion will require more cherry- 
Lrandy to colour it. It may be flavoured with the 
juice of the elder berry. 

Whiskey cordial. 
Take of cinnamon, ginger, and coriander seed, 
each 3 oz. mace, cloves, and cubebs, each, 1^ oz. 
Add 11 gallons of proof spirit, and 2 gallons of 
\vater, and distil; now tie up 5 oz. of English saf- 
fron, raisins (stoned) 4J lbs. dates, 3 do. liquorice 
root, 2 do. Let these stand 12 hours in 2 gallons 
of water, strain, and add it to the above. Uulcify 
the whole with fine sugar. 



ESSENTIAL AND OTHER OILS. 

The oils are obtained by distillation, with a suf- 
ficient quantity of water to prevent the articles 
from adhering to the still, and the oil and water 
acquiring a burnt taste; they are all stimulant, in 
tloses of from 2 to 10 drops upon sugar. 
Oil of aniseed. 

One pound of the seeds will yield 2 drachms. 
It is congealed, except in warm weather; this oil 
is carminative, and poisonous to pigeons, if rubbed 
on their bills or head. 

Cajepiit oil. 

This is obtained from the leaves, which are im- 
ported from the East Indies, generally in large 
copper flasks; it is cooler than that of peppermint, 
hut smells of turpentine. It is used externally in 
rheumatism. 

Oil of cnraiaay. 

This is obtained from the seeds; it is carmina- 
tive: 2 pounds will yield more than I ounce, and 
1 cwt. 83 ounces. 

Oil of doves. 

This is obtained from the spice of that name; it 
is very hea^y, acrimonious, and supposed to con- 
tain some part of the resin of the clove. One pound 
of cloves will yield from 1^ to 2A troy oz.; 7^ pounds 
■^vttl yield 1 pound of oil. It is also expressed from 
the cloves when ripe. Muller, by digesting half 
an oz. of cloves in ether, and then mixing it with 
"water, obtained 7 scruples of oil, greenish yellow, 
swhmtiing upon water. Oil of cloves is imported 
i'rom the si>ice islands; it is stimulant, and added 
to purgative pills to prevent griping; it is exter- 
nally applied to aching tcech. 
Oil of cassia. 

This is the common nil of cinnamon, and is ob- 
tained from the bark of inferior cinnamon, imported 
under the name of cassia. One pound will yield 
from 1 to H drachms. It is stimulant and stoma- 
chic. Another oil is obtained from cassia buds. 
Oil of chamomile. 

This is obtained trom the flowers, and is sto- 
machic. One pound will yield a drachm; 82 
pounds will yield from 13 to 18 drachms. It is of 
a fine blue, even if distilled in glass vessels. 
Oil of cinnamon. 

This is obtained from the fresh bark which is 
imported from Ceylon. De Guignes says, the 
cinnamon of Cochin China is so full of essential 
oil, that it may be pressed out by the fingers. 
Essence ofcedrat. 

This is obtained from the flowers of the citron 
tree; it is amber-coloured and slightly fragrant; 60 
pounds will yield 1 ounce. It is also obtained from 
the yellow part of citron peel; it is colourless, very 
Uiin, aad fragrant. The second oil is obtained bv 



the distillation of the yellow part of citron peel, 
and is greenish; 100 citrons will yield 1 ounce of 
the white essence, and half an ounce of this. It is 
likewise obtained from tlie yellow part of citron 
lieel by expression between two glass i)lates. Also, 
from the cake left on squeezing citron peel, by 
distillation with water. It is thick. 

Common esseiice ofcedrat. 

This is obtained from the (Kces left in the casks 
of citron juice; clear, fragrant, greenish; 50 pounds 
of fseces will yield, by distillation, 3 pounds of es- 
sence. 

Foreign oil of lavender. 

This is the true oil of spike, and is obtained 
from the flowers and seeds of broad-leaved laven- 
der, and more commoidy those of French lavender, 
stffichas, with a quick fire. It is sweet scented, 
but the oil of the narrow-leaved lavender, or Eng- 
lish oil, is by far the finest. 

Essence of lavender. 

The oil of the flowers of lavender is rendered 
more delicate in its odour by age; but to prevent 
its becoming glutinous by keeping, which it is verV^ 
apt to do, draw it over in a water bath, with a small 
quantity of alcohol, which is termed the essence, 
and which, after being kept closely corked fo» 
about seven years, possesses a peculiarly fine deli- 
cate odour of lavender, entirely free from empy* 
reuma. 

Oil of mint. 

Obtained from the dried plant; 6 pounds of fresh 
leaves will yield 3J drachms; and 4 lbs. dried will 
yield 1 1-2 ounce. It is stimulant, carminative^ 
and antispasmodic. 

Essence ofneroU. 

Obtained from the flowers of the orange tree; 6 
cwt. of flowers will yield only 1 ounce of oil. 
Another essence is obtained from orange peel, and 
is very fragrant. A tliird essence is obtained from 
unripe oranges, and is of a gold colour. 
Oil of nutmegs. 

Obtained from that spice; it is liquid, and of a 
pale yellow; a sebaceous insipid matter sU'ims upou 
the water in tlie still. 

Oil of peppermint. 

Obtained from the dried plant; 4 lbs. of the fresh 
herb will yield 3 draclims. In general it requires 
rectification to render it bright and fine. It is 
stimulant and carminative. 

Oil of pennyroyal. 

Obtained from the herb when in flower; 3 pounds 
will yield 6 drachms: emmenagogue. 
Oil of pimento. 

Obtained from allspice: one ounce will yield 30 
drops. It is stimulant. 

Oil of rhodium. 

Obtained from the true ligmtm rhodium: 80 
pounds will yield 9 drachms, and in very resinous 
old wood 80 pounds will yield 2 ounces. It is 
light yellowisli, but grows red by keeping. Ano- 
ther oil is obtained from the root of rose wort, 
rhodicla rosea; it is yellowish, and has the smell 
and taste of that from the true lignum rhodium: 1 
pound will yield a drachm. 

The true Riga balsam. 

Obtained from the shoots of the Aphemousli 
pine, pimis cembra, previously bruised and macer- 
ated tor a month in water. It is pellucid, ver}' 
liquid, whitish, and has the smell and taste of oil of 
jimiper. 

Sutter of roses. 

Obtained from the flowers of damask roses^ 
white, solid, separating slowly from the rose wa- 
ter: it lias little scent of its own, and is used to di- 
lute the scent of musk, civet, and ambergris: 1 
cwt. of roses will yield from 1-2 ounce to au 
ounce. 



DISTILLATIOX. 



149 



Oil of rosemary. 
Obtained from the flowering tops; it is sweet- 
scented: 1 cwt. will yield 8 ounces: 1 pound of dry 
leaves will yield from 1 to 5 drachms: 70 pounds 
of fresh leaves will yield 5 ounces. 
Oil of me. 
Obtained from the dried plant; it is carminative, 
find antispasmodic: 10 pounds of leaves will yield 
from 2 to 4 drachms; 4 pounds in flower will yield 
1 drachm; and 60 pounds will yield '2 1-2 ounces; 
72 pounds, with the seeds, will yield 3 ounces. 
Oil of sassafras. 
Obtained from the sassafras root; 24 pounds 
■will yield 9 ounces; 30 pounds will yield 7 ounces 
and one drachm; and six pounds ■will yield two 
ounces. 

Gil of thyme. 
Obtained from the plant; 2 cwt. fresh will yield 
5^ ounces; 3 1-2 pounds, dried, will yield 1-2 a 
drachm. It is stimulant and caustic; and used in 
tooth-ache, applied to the tooth. 
Oil of-iuornnvood. 
Obtained from the herb; stomachic: 25 pounds 
of green wormwood will yield from 6 to 10 drachms 
of oil; 4 pounds of dry will yield one ounce, and 
18 pounds only 1 1-2 troy ounces. 
Birch oil. 
Obtained by distillino; 20 parts of birch bark, and 

1 of ledum pahistre, crammed in layers into an 
earthen pot, with a handful of tripoli between each 
layer; the mouth of the pot is closed with a perfo- 
rated oak plug, and being inverted, it iS' luted to 
the moutli of another pot sunk in the ground; the 
pot being then surrounded with fire, a brown em- 
pyreumatic oil distills per descenswn into the lower 
jar: an 8 gallon pot, properly filled, yields about 

2 lbs. or 2 1-2 lljs. of oil. In Siberia, it is prepar- 
ed withoufJie ledum. This oil is liquid when fresh, 
but grows thick in time. It is used in Russia for 
currying leather, to which it gives a very peculiar 
smell, much disliked by insects. 

Oil of gum-benzoin. 

Obtained by distilhng the residuum left after 
making flowers of benjamin, by a strong fire. It is 
used instead of birch oil, in making an imitation 
of Russia leather. 

Oil of ti'rpentine. 

Distilled, in Europe, fi'om common turpentine, 
M-ith the addition of about 6 times as much water; 
but in America, M'here the operation is carried on 
upon a very large scale, no water is added, and its 
accidental presence is even dreaded, lest it should 
produce a disruption of the stilling apparatus. 
To rectify oil of turpentine. 

Pour three parts of turpentine into a glass retort, 
capable of containing double the quantity of matter 
subjected to the experiment. Place this retort on 
a sand bath; and having adapted to it a receiver 5 
or G times as large, cement with paste made of 
flour and water, some bands of paper over the place 
•where the two vessels are joined. If the receiver 
is not tubulated, make a sm.all hole with a pin in 
the bands of cemented paper, to leave a free com- 
inunication between the exterior and interior of 
the receiver; then place over the retort a dome of 
baked earth, and maintain the fire in such a man- 
ner, as to make the essence and the water boil. 

The receiver will become filled with abundance , 
of vapours, composed of water and ethereous es- 
sence, which will condense the more readily if all 
the radiating heat of the furnace be intercepted by a 
plate of copper, or piece of board placed between 
the furnace and the receiver. When the mass of 
oil, sul)jected to experiment, has decreased nearly 
• two thirds, tlie distillation must be stopped. I'hen 
leave the product at rest to facilitate the separation 
©f Llie ethereous oil, which is allerwards separated 



from the water, on -which it floats, by means of a 
glass funnel, the beak of which is stopped by tile 
finger. 

This ethereous oil is often milky, or merely ne- 
bulous, by the interposition of some aqueous parts, 
from which it may be separated by a few days' rest. 
The essence, thus prepared, possesses a gi'eat de- 
gree of mobility, and is exceedingly limpid. 

Another 7nethod. — The apparatus employed in 
the preceding process may be used in the present 
case. Fill the retort two thirds with essence, and 
as the receiver is tubulated, apply to the tubulure 
a small square of paper moistened with saliv.a, to 
afford a fi'ee passage to the vapours. Graduate the 
fire in such a manner as to cany on the distillation 
very slowly, until a little more than half the oil 
contained in the retort is obtained. Separate from 
the product, a very small quantity of exceedingly 
acid and reddish water, which passes at the same 
time as the ethereous essence: by these means the 
operation is much shortened. The oil of turpen- 
tine which remains in the retort is highly co- 
loured, and thicker than the primitive essence. It 
may be used for extending fat, varnish, or for coarse 
oil painting. 

Krumholz oil. 

Obtained by distillation from Hung.arian balsam. 
It is distinguished from oil of turpentine, which is 
commordy sold for it, b)' its golden colour, agree- 
able odour, and acid oiliness of taste. 

Balsam of turpentine, or Dutch drops. 

Obtained by distilling oil of turpentine in a glass 
retoi't, till a red balsam is left. 

Or, by distilling resin and separating the oils as 
they come over; first a white oil, then yellow, lastly 
a thick I'ed oil, which is the balsam. It is stimu- 
lant and diuretic. 

Oil of tar. 

Obtained by distilling tar: it is highly valued by 
painters, varnishers, kc. on account of its drj'ing 
qualities; it soon thickens of itself, almost to a bal- 
sam: the acid spirit tluit comes over with it is 
useful for many purposes where an acid is wanted. 
Jiectifed oil of hartshorn, or Dippels^ oil. 

Obtained from hartshorn, distilled without addi- 
tion, rectifying the oil, either by a slow distillation 
in a retort, &c. no bigger than is necessary, and 
saving only the first portion that comes over, or 
with water in a common still; it is vei-y fine and 
thin, and must be kept in an opaque vessel, oi' in a 
drawer, or dark place, as it is quickly discoloured 
by light. It is antispasmodic, anodyne, and dia- 
phoretic, taken in doses of from 10 to 30 drops, in 
water. 

Japan camphor. 

This is obtained from the roots and shoots of the 
laurus camphora and laurus cinnamomum, as also 
the capura curuiidit, by distillation with water. 
This crude camphor is refined by sublimation with 
one sixteenth of its weight of lime, in a very gen- 
tle heat. 

Camphor from essential oils. 

Obtained from the oils of the labiate plants, by 
a careful distillation, without addition of one third 
of the oil; the residuum will be found to contain 
crystals of camphor, on separating which, and re- 
distilling the remaining oil two or three times, the 
whole ot the camphor may be obtained. Oil of 
rosemary or of sweet marjoram yields about 1 oz. 
of camphor from 10 of oil; of the sage 1 oz. from 
8; and of lavender 1 oz. from 4, or even less of oil: 
tliat from oil of marjoram is not volatile, and al- 
though it takes fire, it soon goes out. This rosin, 
like the otliers from essential oils, may be obtained 
in a larger proportion, if the oil is kept in slightly 
stopped bottles in a cool place 

JV'2 



150 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



DISTILLED WATERS. 



Preservation offoiversfur lU.ttillalion. 

Rub three poiiuds' (if rose-leaves for two or three 
minutes with a pound of common salt. IMie Howers 
being bruised l)y the friction of tlie grains of salt, 
form a paste which is to be put into an earthen jar, 
or into a water-tight barrel. The same ])rocess is 
to be repeated until the vessel is filled, so that ail 
the roses may be equally salted. The vessel is tlien 
to be shut up'and kept in a cool place until wanted. 

For distillation, this aromatic paste is, at any 
season, to be put into the body of the still with 
twice its weight of water; and wlien heat is applied; 
the oil, or essential water, is to be obtained in the 
common way. Both the oil and water are in this 
•way produced in greater (juantity, than by using 
the leaves without the salt: besides, the preserved 
paste will keep its flavour and strength unimpaired 
for several years. 

Other flowers, capable of affording essential oils, 
may also be treated in the above-mentioned way, 
witli economy and advantage; as there is thereby 
no occasion to carry on a hurried process in the 
heat of summer, when these are in perfection. 
General rules for the distillation nf simple luaters. 

1. Plants and their parts ought to be fresh ga- 
thered. When they are directed fresh, such only 
must be employed; but some are allowed to be used 
dry, as being easily procurable in this state at all 
times of the year, though rather more elegant wa- 
ters might be obtained from them whilst green. 

2. Having bruised tlie suljjects a little, pour 
thereon thrice its quantity of spring water. This 
quantity is to be diminished or increased, accord- 
ing as the plants are more or less juicy than ordi- 
nary. When fresh and juicy herbs are to be dis- 
tilled, thrice their weight of water will be fully 
sufficient, but dry ones require a much larger quan- 
tity. In general there sliould be so much water, 
that after all intended to be distilled has come over, 
there may be li(iuor enough to prevent the matter 
from burning to the still. 

3. Formerly, some vegetables were slightly fer- 
mented with the addition of yeast, previous to the 
distillation. 

4. If any drops of oil swim on the surface of the 
•water, they are to be carefully taken off. 

5. That the waters may be kept the better, 
about one-twentieth part of their weight of i)roof 
spirit may be added to each, after they are distilled. 

Stills for simple ivaters. 

The instruments chieily used in the distillation 
of simple waters are of two kinds, commotdy called 
the hot still, or alembic, and the cold still. The 
•waters drawn by the cold still from plants are much 
more fragrant, and more fully impregnated with 
their virtues, than those drawn by the hot still or 
alembic. 

The method is this: — A pewter body is suspend- 
ed in the body of the alembic, and the head of the 
still fitted to the pewter body: into this body the 
ingredients to be distilled are put, the alembic 
filled with water, the still b.ead luted to the pewter 
body, and the nose luted to the worm of the refri- 
geratory or worm. The same intention will be 
answered by putting the ingredients into a glass 
alembic, and placing it in a bath heat, or balneum 
mar>.e. 

The cold still is much the best adapted to draw 
off the virtues of simples, which are valued for 
their fine flavour when green, which is subject to 
be lost in drying; for when we want to extract from 
plants a spirit so light and volatile, as not to sub- 
sist in open air any longer than while the plant 
continues in its growth, it is certainly the best me- ' 
tljod to remove the plant from its native soil into \ 



some proper instrument, where, as it dies, these 
volatile parts can be collected and preserved. And 
such an instrument is what we call the cold still, 
where the drying of the plant, or flower, is only 
forwarded by a moderate warmth, and all that rises 
is collected and preserved. 

Expeditions method of distilling' simple ivaters. 

Tie a piece of muslin or gauze over a glazed 
earthen pot, whose mouth is just large enough to 
receive the bottom of a warniiiig-pa!i; on this cloth 
lay the herb, clipped; then place upon them the 
warming-pan, with live coals in it, to cause heat 
just enough to prevent burning, by which means, 
as the steam issuing out of the herb cannot mount 
upwards, by reason of the bottom of the pan just 
fitting the brim of tlie vessel below it, it must ne- 
cessarily descend, and collect into waterat the bot- 
tom of the receiver, and that strongly impregnated 
with the essential oil, and tlie salt of the vegetable 
thus distilled; which, if wanted to make spirituous 
or compound water, is easily ilone, by simply ad- 
ding some good spirits or French brandy to it, 
which will keep good for along time, and be much 
better than if the spirits had passed through a still, 
which must of necessity waste some of their 
strength. Care should be taken not to let the fire 
be too strong, lest it scorch tiie plants; and to be 
made of charcoal, for continuance and better regu- 
lation, which must be managed by lifting up and 
laying down the lid, as wanted to increase or de- 
crease the degrees of heat. The deeper the earthen 
pan, the cooler the season, and the less fire at first 
(afterwards to be gradually raised), in the greater 
perfection will tlie distilled water be obtained. 

As the more moveable or volatile parts of vege- 
tables are the aqueous, the oily, the gummy, the 
resinous, and the saline, these are to be expected 
in the waters of this process; tlie heat here em- 
ployed being so great as to burst the vessels of the 
plants, some of which contain so large a quantity 
of oil, that it may be seen swiYiiming on the sur- 
face of tlie water. 

Although a small quantity only of distilled wa- 
ters cau be obtained at a time by this confined opera- 
tion, yet it compensates in strength what is deficient 
in quantity. Such liquors, if well corked up from 
the air, will keep good a long time, especially if 
about a twentieth part of any spirits be added, in 
order to preserve tlie same more eflectually. 
To make rosemary tvater. 

As the method of iierforming the operation by 
the cold still is the very same, whatever plant or 
flower is used, the' following instance of procuring 
a water from rosemary will be abundantly suffi- 
cient to instruct the young practitioner in the man- 
ner of conducting the process in all cases whatever. 

Take rosemary, fresh gathered in its perfection, 
with the morning dew upon it, and lay it lightly 
and unbruised upon the plate or bottom of the still; 
cover the plate with its conical head, and apply a 
glass receiver to the nose of it. Make a small fire 
of charcoal under the plate, continuing it as long 
as any liquor comes over into the i-eceiver. 

When nothing more comes over, take off the 
still head, and remove the plant, putting fresh in 
its stead, and proceed as before; continue to repeat 
the operation successively, till a sufficient quantity 
of water is procured. Let this distilled water be 
kept at rest in clean bottles, close stopped, for 
some days in a cold place: by this means it will 
become limpid, and powerfully impregnated with 
the taste and smell of the plant. 

Simple Alexetereal waters. 

Take of spearmint leaves, fresh, li lbs. sea 
wormwood tops, fresh, angelica leaves, tresh, each 
I lb. ; water, as much as is sufficient to prevent 
burning. Draw oft" by djstillatioi\ 3 gallons. — Or. 



DISTILLATION. 



151 



fake of elder flowers, moderately dried, 2 pounds; 
angelica leaves, fresh gathei-ed, 1 pound; water, a 
sutlicient quantity. Distil off 3 gallons. 
Simple pennyroyal tvater. 

Take of pennyroyal leaves, dry, a pound and a 
half; water as much as will prevent biU'ning. Draw 
off by distillation 1 gallon. 

Simple speannint ivaier. 

Take of spearmint leaves, fresh, any quantity; 
water, three times as mucli. Distil as long as tlie 
liquor wiiicli comes over lias a considerable taste 
or smell of the mint. — Or, take spearmint leaves, 
dried, li lbs., water as much as is sufficient to pre- 
vent l3uraing. Draw off by distillation I gallon. 
Cinnamon water. 

Take of bruised cinnamon, 1 lb. — water, 2 gal- 
lons. SiiTimer in a still for half an hour, put what 
conies over into the still again; when cold, strain 
through flannel, 

Ean sans-pareil. 

Take 2 gallons of fine old honey-water, put it 
into a still capable of holding 4 gallons, and add 
the thinly pared rinds of 6 or 8 fresh citrons, nei- 
ther green nor mellow ripe. Then add 60 or 70 
drops of fine Roman bergamot: and, having luted 
the apparatus well, let the whole digest in a mo- 
derate heat for 24 hours. Draw off, by a water- 
bath heat, about 1 gallon. 

Jessamins water. 

Take 6 pounds of tlie white sweet almond cakes 
from wliicli jessamine oil has been made abroad: 
beat and sift them to a fine powder, and put to it 
as much tVesli oil of jessamine as will be required 
to make it into a stiff paste. Let this paste be dis- 
solved in about 6 quarts of spring water, whicli has 
been previously well boiled, and left until it has 
becofne about half cold. Stir and mix tlie whole 
well together; and when the oil and water have been 
well combined, let the whole stand until the pow- 
der has fallen to the bottom of the vessel. Now 
pour the liquid oft' gently, and filter it through cot- 
ton, in a large tin funnel, into the glass bottle in 
which it is to be kept for use. The powder or se- 
diment which has been left at the bottom of the 
vessel, when dried by the heat of the sun, answers 
very well for making almond paste for the hands. 
Jamaica pepper water. 

Jamaica pepper is the fruit of a tall tree growing 
in the mountainous parts of Jamaica, where it is 
much cultivated because of the great profit arising 
from the cured fruit, sent in large quantities annu- 
ally into Europe. 'I'ake of Jamaica pepper, lialfa 
pound; water, two gallons and a half; draw ott' 1 
gallon with a pretty brisk fire. The oil of this 
fruit is very ponderous, and therefore this water 
is made in an alembic. 

Myrtle -water. 

Infuse 8 or 10 lbs. of the cuttings of green myr- 
tle, in nearly 20 gallons of rain, or river water, and 
add thereto a pint of fresh yeast, after it has stood 
for 24 hours. At the end of another day and night, 
put the whole into a still, with a pound of bay salt. 
Draw oft' the whole of the water; and, next day, in- 
fuse more myrtle leaves, as before, and distil again. 
Repeat the same a third time. 

Orange Jioxuer water. 

Tske 2 lbs. of orange flowers, and 24 quarts of 
■rtater, and draw over three pints. — Or, take 12 lbs. 
of orange flowers, and 16 quarts of water, and draw 
over 15 quarts. 

Orange peel -water. 

Take of the outward yellow rind of Seville 
oranges, 4 ounces; water, 3 gallons and a half; 
draw ott" 1 gallon by the alembic, with a brisk fire. 
Peppermint water. 

Take of the herb of peppermint, dried, 1 1-2 lbs.; 
water, as much as is sufficient to prevent burning. 
Distil oft" a gallon. This has been kuown to allay 



sickness when nothing else would succeed, and is 
used in flatulent colics. A wine-glassful may be 
taken, and often repeatetl. 

Another. — ^Take of oil of peppermint, 1 lb.; wa- 
ter, a sufficient quantity. Draw oft' 30 gallons. This 
is stimulant and canuiQative; and covers disagree- 
able flavours. 

Portugal a7id Angel waters. 

Take a pint ot orange flower water, a pint of 
rose-water, and half a pint of myrtle-water; to 
these put a quarter of an ounce of distilled spirit of 
musk, and an ounce of spirit of ambergris. Shake 
the whole well together, and the process will be 
finished. 

Jiose water. 

Take of the leaves of fresh damask roses witli 
the heels cut off, 6 lbs. — water, as much as to ])re- 
vent burning. Distil off a gallon. The distilled 
water should be drawn from dried herbs, because 
the fresh cannot be got at all times in the year. 
Whenever the fresh are used the weights must be 
increased; but whether the fresh or dry are made 
use of, it is left to the judgment of the operator to 
vary the weight, according as the plants are in 
greater or less perfection, owing to the season in ' 
which they grew, or were collected. 
Sviall snail water. 

Take of balm, mint, liart's tongue, ground ivy, 
flowers of the dead nettle, mallow flowers, elder 
flowers, each a handful; snails, freed from their 
shells, and whites of eggs, each 4 oz. ; nutmegs, 1-2 
oz.; milk, 1 gallon. Distil in a water bath to dry- 
ness. 

Straruberry water. 

Take of the bruised fruit, 20 lbs. ; water a suffi- 
cient quantity. Draw off two gallons and a half: 
this water is very fragrant. 

I'o estimate the quantity of salts contained in any 
mineral water. 

This may be done with considerable accuracy by 
finding the difterence of weight between a bottle 
filled to a certain mark with distilled water, and 
the same filled with the mineral water: to this dif- 
ference add l-5th, and again another fifth; the 
weight will then denote that of tlie salts contained 
in the bottle of water; large square case bottles are 
well adapted for this purpose. Let the difl'erence 
be 79 grains, l-5th is 15 grains 4-5ths; and the 
other 5th the same: total, 110 grains 3-5ths. 

The salts, obtained by the evaporation of a mi- 
neral water, are not to be considered as its real 
contents, because new combinations are formed 
during the process, and the most insoluble com- 
pounds possible are separated first; whereas in the 
original water there is good reason to suppose the 
real mode of composition is that of the most solu- 
.ble compositions that are capable of being formed 
from the remote principles contained in the water. 
Hence those common products, sulphate of lime 
and muriate of soda, probably exist in mineral wa- 
ters as sulphate of soda and muriate of lime, and it 
is to the jiresence of the latter salt that much of 
the medical efi'ects of mineral waters is to be as- 
cribed. — Gray's Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia. 
Common distilled water. 

Take of water, 10 gallons. Distil. Throw 
away the first half gallon, and draw off 4 gallons, 
which keep in glass or stone ware. Distilled wa- 
ter is used as a diet drink in cancerous diseases, 
and should be used in making medicines when the 
salts contained in common water would decompose 
them. 



COMPOUND DISTILLED WATERS. . 

Generalndesforthe distillation ofsp2rituoiiswaters, 
I. The plants and their parts ouglu to be mode- 



152 



UNIVJIRSAL RECEIPT BOOiK. 



rat.ely and newly dried, except such as are ordered 
to be fresh e;atliered. 

2. After tlie ingredients have been steeped in the 
spirit for the time prescribed, add as much uater 
as will be sufficient to prevent a burnt flavour, or 
rather more. 

3. Tlie liquor which conies over first in the dis- 
, tillation is by some kept by itself, under the title 

of spirit; and the otlier runnings, whicli prove 
milky, areirfined down by art. But it is preferable 
to mix all the runnings togetlier, without fining 
them, tliat the waters may possess the virtues of 
the plant entire. 

4. In the distillation of these waters, the genuine 
brandy obtained from wine is directed. AVHiere 
this is not to be procured, take, instead of that 
proof-spirit, half its quantity of a well rectified spi- 
rit, ])repared from anj' other fermented Tuiuors. 
In this steep the ingredients, and then add spring 
water enough, botli to make up the quantity or- 
dered to be drawn off", and to prevent burning. 

liergamot ivater. 

Take of fine old French brandy, 2 gallons, or, 1 
gallon of highly rectified spirit of wine, and I gul- 
lon of spring water. Put to tbe brandy, or diluted 
spirits, 1-2 an ounce, or more, of true Roman oil 
of Rergamot, whose parts have been previously 
well divided by trituration with lump sugar, in a 
glass mortar. Now distil by a water heat, and 
draw oft" six quarts only. IJy this operation, a 
most excellent bergamot water will be produced, 
which will remain good for twenty years. 
Original receipt far JIungnry ivater. 

The original receipt for preparing this invalua- 
ble lotion, is written in letters of gold in the hand 
■writing of Elizabetii, queen of Hungary. Take of 
aqua vitse, four times distilled, 3 parts, — the tops 
and flowers of rosemary, 2 parts. To be put toge- 
ther in a close-stopped vessel, and allowed to stand 
in a warm place, during fifty hours, tiien to be dis- 
tilled in an alembic, and of this, once eveiy week, 
1 drachm to be taken in the morning, either in tlie 
food or drink, and every morning tiie face and the 
diseased limb to be washed with it. 
French Hungary ivater. 

The French Hungary water is made wholly from 
a wine spirit, and from rosemary flowers alone, 
which about Montpellier (the place from whence 
this commodity comes), grow in great ])lenly and 
perfection. Tbe fragrancy of these flowers is so 
great, as to render tbe waters made from tliem 
more excellent and valuable than any thing of the 
kind made in England. 

Jiest Hungary ivater. 

Take thirty gallons of spirit of wine: put to it, in 
a large still, six large bunches of fine green rose- 
mary, when the flowers are white, and in full 
bloom; one pound of lavender flowers, and four 
ounces of true English oil ot rosemary. The rose- 
mary-leaves and flowers must be stripped from all 
their wood and green twigs. Wlien the whole lias 
been in a state of digestion for twenty-four hours, 
distil as before, drawing oft' about twentj'-five or 
twenty-six gallons, l)ut no more. When distilled, 
stop it closely in a copper vessel, and keep it un- 
disturbed for a1)out a monlii. 

Jlqua mollis, or the kiiig^s honey ivater. 

First distillation. — Take 28 pounds of coriander 
seeds, ground small in the starch-niill, — 28 com- 
mon bunches of sweet marjoram, in flower, dried 
and stripped from tlie twigs, — 1 pound ot calamus 
aromaticus, — 1 pound of yellow saunders, — and 1 
pound of orange and lemon peel. Let the three 
last be separately beaten into gross powder. Alix 
the above ingredients, and put them into a sixty- 
gallot\ copper still, and add to them twenty gallons 
of proof spirit, and the same quantity of I'ain or 



spring water. Lute well all the junctures of the 
apparatus, and leave the ingredients in this state, 
without fire, for forty-eight liours. At the end of 
this time, begin to distil by a veiy gentle heat, lest 
the flowers and seeds, which are very ligiit, should 
rise suddenly in the still-bead, stop up the worm, 
and endanger the whole work. 

Increase the fire after the first half hour, and 
keep it regular, till the termination of tiie process. 
Draw off" about twenty-six or twenty-seven gallons, 
or continue so long as the spirit will burn, by the 
ajiplicalion of a lighted paper to a small (piantity 
of it in a saucer. Next day, when the still is per- 
fectly cold, let it be well cleaned out. The ingre- 
dients should be immediately dried in the sun, 
otherwise they will become mouldy. Wlien there 
is a considerable quantity from three or four mak- 
ings, it ought to be ground in a mill, and finely 
sifted. They will be found to be of great use in 
tlie making of ordinary brown wash-balls; and with 
some additions of brown powders for the hair. 

Second distillation. — Now return tlie spirits 
drawn ott"into tlie still, and add ten or twelve gal- 
lons of water. Then put in the following ingredi- 
ents, bruised and mixed: 14 ounces of nutmegs, 4 
ounces of cloves, 12 ounces of cinnamon bark, 8 
ounces of pimento, and 40 ounces of cassia-lignum. 
Tiiese are to be separately broken or bruised in an 
iron mortar, until they are about tlie size of small 
peas. If liierebe any dust, it must be siited Irom 
them before they are used. Then take 4t) ounces 
of storax, 40 ounces of gum-benjainin, 44 ounces 
of labdanum, and 40 renellins. 

Ureak and bruise tlie above also, but make as 
little dust as possible. Put tlie dust from these 
and tiie toregoing, together, into a coarse muslin 
bag, which is to be hung in the sliir, so that the li- 
quor, during distillation, may extract all its virtues. 
The whole are then to remain in the liquor, in a 
cold state, for foity-eiglit hours; attention being 
still paid to luting and stoiiping close, as before. 
At the end of this time kindle the fire, and work 
oft' (slowly at first) until twenty-six gallons are dis- 
tilled. Mix all the dift"erent runnings together in 
a copper vessel, kept for this jiurpose only. 

Having drawn oft", in this second distillation, 
twenty-six gallons, mix together 10 oz. of spirit of 
musk, 10 oz. of sjiirit of ambei-gris, 1-2 oz. of true 
oil of lavender, 1-2 oz. of essence of bergamot, and 
1-2 oz. of oil of rhodium. Now add to it, in a 
copper vessel, that will hold forty gallons, sis gal- 
lons of orange-flower water, and eight gallons of 
rose-water, recently made. When properly mixed, 
put all these into the copper vessel, and slir the 
whole well together. Add to all these a quart of 
milk, wliich lias stood for a night, and which has 
had the cream taken clearly oil'; tlien agitate and 
mix the whole well together, and stop the vessel up 
close, until the lime when it is to be used. 

The jar ought to ha\e a lock-cock soldered into 
it, to prevent accidents. This sliould be placed full 
two inches from the bottom, in order that tlie 
milk, and otlier impurities may fall to the bottom. 

If this honey-water be made in the spring, and 
if the weather be fair, it will be quite lined down 
in the course of a month; tliat is, if it be not open- 
ed or disturbed. AViien, by drawing oft" a little in 
a glass, the milk, kc. have fallen down to the bot- 
tom, draw the whole oft" into clean and well sea- 
soned stone, or glass bottles; or into another cop- 
per-jar. This composition ought never to be drajwn 
oft" in rainy or cloudy weather; for then the milk is 
apt to rise. In warm weather it should be kept 
cool; and, in winter, as warm as possible. Whtjn 
distilled in the winter, the jars ought to he warm- 
ed, or otherwise the honey-water will not be fined 
for five or six months. 



DISTILLATION. 



153 



Tills honey-water may keep thirty years. 

The ingi-edients from the second distillation are 
cf much greater value than those from the first, and 
therefore require more care in the dr} ing. I'hese 
are of great use for the best sort of gross powders, 
i'ov sxveet bags, he; and, if made into a fine pow- 
der, may be made use of with great success, in the 
best-sort of broivn perfumed balls. 

The same powder, with fresh ingredients, 
makes excellent pastils, to burn: and may be fur- 
ther used in making spirit of benjamin. 
Compound spirit of juniper. 

Take of juniper-berries, well bruised, 1 lb. ca- 
rawav seeds, and sweet fennel seeds, each, bruis- 
ed, 1 1-2 oz. diluted alcohol, 1 gallon. Macerate 
for two days, and having added as mucli water as 
will prevent empyreuma, draw off, by distillation, 
one gallon.' 

Lavender spirit. 

Take 14 pounds of lavender fiowers, 10 1-2 gal- 
lons of rectified spirit of wine, and 1 gallon of wa- 
ter; draw off ten gallons by a gentle fire; or, which 
is much better, by a sand l)atli heat. 
Ijavender water. 

Take 30 gallons of tiie best wine spirit, pour it 
into a co\)per still, placed in a hot-water bath, over 
a clear but steady fire; put to it 6 pounds of the 
largest and freshest lavender flowers, after having 
separated them from all stalks and green leaves, 
■which give the lavender water a woody and faint 
smell. Put no water into the still; close all the 
junctures well, and let the spirits and flowers stand 
.n a state of digestion for 24 hours; and then, with 
a gentle fire, draw off 25 or, at most, 2S gallons 
■only, which, as soon as distilled, are to be poured 
into a cop])er vessel for keeping. Wooden vessels 
and cans are to be avoided, as the best parts of the 
oil and of the spirits will be absorbed l>y them, 
and consequently lost. AVhen the distillatio(j is 
over, draw out, or quench the fire, and let the re- 
maining spirits and flowers continue in the still un- 
" til the next day. Wlien tlie above quantity of 25 
or 26 gallons has stood for 4 or 5 days, put to it 10 
oz. of true English oil of lavender. Mix the wliole 
•well in the jar, by drawing out one or t\i'o gallons, 
and then returning them. Repeat this ten or 
twelve times, then stop the vessel up close, and do 
not disturb it for a month, at least. 

Lavender xvater of the second order. 

To tiie 4 or 5 gallons of the spirits, and the la- 
Tender flowers left in the still, after the distillation 
mentioned in the last article, add 15 gallons of 
common proof spirit, 9 or 10 gallons of spring wa- 
ter, 3 pounds of lavender-flowers, and 4 oz. of oil 
of lavender, intimately mixed with loaf-sugar, by 
powdering it in a glass mortar. Digest the whole, 
and draw oft* 25 gallons, proceeding in every re- 
spect as before, except that, in this case, no oil is 
to be added; for, as tiiere is so much water pre- 
sent, the addition of oil would he apt to turn the 
whole quantity muddy, or of a blueisli or opaque 
colour, which it cannot be easily freed from, with- 
out a second distillation. 

Lavender' water fur immediate ?«?. 

Mix with 1 gallon of^ proof spirit, 1^ ounce of 
true English oil of lavender, which is all that will 
properly combine with the spirit, without injuring 
the colour, by rendering it muddy. When the 
spirit and the oil are properly mixed, they are to 
be put into glass bottles, which are to be -well 
stopped, and ought to be shaken before used. 
Perfumed lavender water. 

Distil by a gentle heat in a sand or water hath; 

■or mix and shake frequently, during 14 days,the 

following ingredients: 1 ounce of foreign oil of la- 

vendei", 1-2 ditto of English ditto, 1-3 ditto of es- 

U 



sence of ambergris, and one gallon of rectified spi- 
rit of wine. 

Lemon water. 

The peel of the lemon, the part used in making 
this water, is a very grateful bitter aromatic, and, 
on that account, very serviceable in repairing and 
strengthening the stomach. Take of dried lemon- 
peel, 4 lbs. proof spirit, 10 1-2 gallons, and one 
gallon of water. Draw off 10 gallons by a gentle 
fire. 

Spirit of peppermint. 

Take of the herb of peppermint, dried, I 1-2 lbs. 
proof spirit, 1 gallon, water, sufficient to prevent 
burning. Distil off a gallon. 

Compound gentian water. 

Take of gentian root, sliced, 3 lbs. ; leaves and 
fiowers of the lesser centaury, each 8 ounces; in- 
fuse the whole in 6 quarts of proof spirit and one 
quart of water; and draw off the water till the 
feints begin to rise. 

Spirit of scurvy grass. 

Take of scurvygrass, fresh gathered and bruised, 
15 pounds; hoj'se-radish root 6 pounds; rectified 
spirit of wine, 1 gallon; and water, 3 pints. Digest 
the whole in a close vessel 2 days, and draw oif a 
gallon with a gentle fire. 

Antiscorbutic water. 

Take of the leaves of water-cresses, garden and 
sea scurvygrass, and brook-lime, each 20 handsful: 
of pine-tops, germander, horehound, and the lesser 
centaury, eacli 16 handsful: of the I'oots of bryony 
and sharp pointed dock, each 6 pounds: of mustard 
seed, 1 1-2 pounds. Digest the whole in 10 gal- 
lons of proof spirit, and 2 gallons of water, and 
draw off by a gentle fire. 



ACID LIQUORS. 

To make vinegar. 

Vinegar is used prmcipally as a sauce and to 
preserve vegetable substances; but it is employed 
externally when an over dose of strong wine, spirit, 
opium, or other narcotic poison has been taken. 
A false strength is given to it by adding oil of vit- 
riol, or some "acrid vegetable, as pellitory of Spain, 
capsicum, &c. It is rendered colourless by add- 
ing fresh burned bone black, 6 ounces to a gallon, 
and letting it stand for two or three days to clear. 
Mix cider and honey, in the proportion of 1 lb. of 
honey to a gallon of cider, and let it stand in a ves- 
sel for some months, and vinegar will be produced 
so i)0\verful, that water must be mixed with it for 
common use. 

Another method. — Scheele, a celebrated che- 
mist, has recommended the following recipe: 
Take 6 spoonsful of good alcohol: to this add S 
pints of milk, and put' the mixture into vessels to 
be corked close. Vent must be given from time 
to time to the gas of fermentation. In the course 
of a month, this will produce very good vinegar. 

Another. — Put into a barrel of sufiicient dimen- 
sions a mixture composed of 41 wine pints of wa- 
ter, about 8 pints of wliiskey, (Peaii de vin de 
grain) about 2 wine pints of yeast, and 2 pounds 
of ciiarcoal, and place it in a proper situation for 
fermentation. At the end of 4 months a very good 
vinegar will be formed, as clear and as white as 
water. 

Common vinegar. 

This is made from weak malt liquor, brewed for 
the purpose: its various strength is, in England, 
denoted by numbers, from 18 to 24. 

Another. — To every gallon of water put 1 lb. of 
coarse Lisbon sugar; let the mixture be boiled and 
skimmed as long as any scum arises. Then let it 



64 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



1)6 poured into proper vessels: and when it is as 
cool as beer, when worked, let a toast, rubbed over 
•with yeast, b*; put to it. Let it work about 24 
hours, and then put it into an iron-hooped cask, 
fixed either near a constant fire, or where the sum- 
mer sun shines the greater part of the day; in this 
situation it shouhl not be closely stopped up; but a 
tile, or sometliing similar, should be laid on the 
bung hole, to keep out the dust and insects. At 
the end of about 3 months (sometimes less) it will 
be clear and fit for use, and may be bottled ofi*. 
The longer it is kept, after it is bottled, the better 
it will be. If the vessel containing the liquor is to 
be exposed to the sun's heat, the best time to be- 
gin making it is in the month of April. 
IVine vinegar. 

Take any sort of wine that has gone through fer- 
mentation, and put it into a cask that has had vine- 
gar in it; then take some of the fruit or stalks of 
which the wine has been made, and put them wet 
into an open-headed cask in the sun, with a coarse 
cloth over the top of it, for six days — after which, 
put them in the vinegar, and stir it well about — 
then put it in a warm place, if in winter, or if in 
' summer, put it in a yard in the sun, with a slate 
over the bung. When the vinegar is sour enough 
and fine, rack it oft' into a clean sour cask, and 
bung it up; then put it in the cellar for use. Those 
wines that contain the most mucilage are fittest for 
the purpose. 

Tlie lees of pricked wine are also a very proper 
ingredient in vinegar. 

Sugar vinegar. 

To each gallon of water add 2 lbs. of brown su- 
J^r, and a little yeast; leave it exposed to the sun 
for six months, in a vessel slightly stopped. 
Gooseberry/ vinegar. 

Bruise the gooseberries, when ripe, and to every 
quart put three quarts of water; stir them well to- 
gether, and let the whole stand for 24 hours, then 
strain it through a canvass bag. To every gallon 
of liquor add 1 lb. of brown sugar, and stir them 
■well togetlier before they are put into the cask. 
Proceed in all other respects as before. This vi- 
negar possesses a pleasant taste and smell; but 
raspberry vinegar, which may be made on the same 
plan, is far superior in these respects. The rasp- 
berries are not required to be of the best sort, still 
they should be ripe and well flavoured. 
Currant vinegar. 

This is made in tiie same way as that from goose- 
berries, only pick oft' the currants from the stalks. 
Primrose vinegar. 

To 15 quarts of water put 6 lbs. of brown sugar; 
let it boil ten minutes, and take off the scum; pour 
on it half a peck of primroses; before it is quite 
cold, put in a little fresh yeast, and let it work in 
a warm place all night; put it in a barrel in the 
kitchen, and when done working, close the barrel, 
still keeping it in a warm place. 

Raisin vinegar. 
_ After making raisin wine, lay the pressed rai- 
sins in a heap to heat, then to each cwt. put 10 
gallons of water, and a little yeast. 
Cider vinegar. 

The poorest sort of cider will serve for vinegar, 
in managii)g which proceed tlius. — First draw oft' 
the cider into a cask that has had vinegar in it be- 
fore; then put some of the apples that have been 
pressed into it, set the whole in the sun, and in a 
week or 9 days it may he drawn off" into another 
cask.— This is a good table vinegar. 

Vinegar from the refuse of findts. 

Take tiie skins of raisins after they have been 
used in making wine, and pour three times tlieir 
own quantity of boiling water on them; stir then\ 
well about and then set the cask in a warm place, 



close covered, and the liquor, in a week, when 
drawn off" from its sediment, put into another cask, 
and well bunged down, will be a good vinegar for 
the table. 

Vinegar from the refuse of bee-hives. 

Wiien honey is extracted from the combs, by 
means of pressure, take the whole ma^s, break and 
separate it, and into each tub or vessel put one part 
of combs, and two of water; place them in the sun, 
or in a warm place, and cover them with cloths. 
Fermentation takes place in a few days, and con- 
tinues from 8 to 12 days, according to the higher 
or lower temperature of the situation in wliich the 
operation is carried on. During the fermentation, 
stir the matter from time to time and ])ress it down 
with llie hands, that it may be perfectly soaked. 
When the fermentation is over, put tiie matter to 
drain upon sieves or strainers. At the bottom of 
the vessels will be found a yellow liipior, which 
must be thrown away, because it would soon con- 
tract a disagreeable smell, which it would commu- 
nicate to the vinegar. Then wash tlie tubs, put 
into them the water separated from the other mat- 
ter; it immediately begins to turn sour; when the 
tubs must be again covered with cloths, and kept 
moderately warm. A pellicle or skin is formed on 
their surface, beneath which the vinegar acquires 
strength; in a month's time it begins to be sharps 
it must be left standing a little longer, and then put 
into a cask, of which the bung-hole is left open. 
It may then be used like any other vinegar. 
To strengthen vinegar.' 

Suff'er it to be repeatedly frozen, and separate 
the upper cake of ice, or water from it. 

All vinegars owe their principal strength to the 
acetic acid they contain; but the vinegar of wine 
contains also a tartar, a small portion of the malic 
i acid, alcohol, and colouring matter: that of cider 
contains merely the malic acid, little or no alcohol, 
and a yellowish colouring matter. 
Vinegars from orange and elder Jloivers, clove, giU 
lijioxoers, musk roses, &c. 

Dry an ounce of either of the above flowers, (ex- 
cept the orange flowers, which will not bear dry- 
ing), for two days in the sun; then put them into a 
bottle, pour on them a pint of vinegar, closely stop 
the bottle, and infuse 15 days in moderate heat o4 
tiie sun. Vinegars of any other flowers, as tarra- 
gon, &c. may be made in a similar manner. 
To prepare ice vinegar. 

Saturate 3 or 4 pounds of purified potash with 
wine or beer vinegar, which has been distilled over 
charcoal powder; evaporate the saturated liquor to 
the consistence of a diy powder, of which put 3 lbs. 
accurately weighed, when still warm, into a glass, 
previously heated, and shut it with a glass stopper. 
Tlien pour 3 lbs. of sulphuric acid into a retort, 
provided on its upper part with a pipe, and join to 
it a receiver, large enough for containing about 20 
pints of water. Begin to add to the sulphuric acid 
the above salt in small portions: shaking and stir- 
ring it frequently. After having mixed all the salt, 
add by degrees 1 lb. more of sulphuric acid, and 
shut the pipe with a wet bladder: suft'er the whole 
to stand quietly one night. The next morning 
place the retort into the sand-pot of a furnace so 
dee[)ly, that the sand between the bottom of the 
pot and the retort be only about half an inch thick; 
put the receiver into a refrigeratory filled with 
very cold water, after which apply a gentle fiire. 
About an hour after, the distillation commences by 
white fumes appearing in the vessels, at which 
time the fire must be very carefully managed. The 
drops that go over may succeed one anotiier quick- 
ly, witiiout any danger of the vessels being crack- 
ed: but be very careful that no colierent streams 
run over, and likewise take care that the thick and 



DISTILLATION. 



155 



vhite fumes only lodge in the lowest part of the 
receiver; and when they begin to rise, particularly 
with a whirling motion, take the fire immediately 
out of the furnace. It is, besides, necessary to i-efri- 
gerate often the upper part of the receiver Avith 
cold water, or, which is still better, with snow or 
ice. The ending of the distillation is known by 
the disappearance of the white fumes, by the drops 
running over much slower, and particularly by the 
liquefaction of the i-esiduum to a black frothing 
fluid, that goes easily over into the receiver. At 
the moment of the liquefying and frothing of that 
substance, the receiver ought to be taken oft', and 
another put on, into which 5 or 6 dr. of a much 
"weaker and disagreeably smelling acetous acid will 
go over; that, however, may be used for purifying 
the ice vinegar from the adherent sulpliurous acid; 
■when, after having diluted with water, it is satu- 
rated with barytes, filtrated, and evaporated to 
dryness. The residuum is ground to a fine pow- 
der, and, together with charcoal powder, added to 
the ice vinegar; after which the mixture ouglit to 
be rectified over a gentle fire, to the dryness of the 
residuum. Of 3 lbs. of acetate of kali, 22 oz. of 
ice-. vinegar were obtained by this method. 
To make qiiass. 

Mix rye flour and warm water together, and 
leave it till it has turned sour. This vinegar is 
much drank in Russia; it loooks thick and unplea- 
sant at first, but becomes agreeable by use. 
Distilled vinegar. 

This is obtained from vinegar by distillation, 
rejecting the 4th or 8th part that comes over first, 
and avoiding its acquiring a burnt flavour. 

Distilled vinegar is weaker than the common, 
but is used sometimes in pickles, where its want 
of colour is an advantage. 

Improved distilled vinegar. 

Obtained from wood distilled in large iron cy- 
linders for the manufacture of charcoal for gun- 
powder; when rectified it is used for all the pur- 
poses of distilled vinegar. 

To deprive vinegar and other vegetable liquids of 
their colour. 

To take away the colour of vinegar, a litre of red 
wine vinegar, cold, is mixed with 45 grammes of 
bone-charcoal, in a glass vessel. Shake tins mix- 
ture from time to time, and in two or three days 
the colour completely disappears. When the pro- 
cess is to be performed in the large way, throw 
the charcoal into a cask of vinegar, which must be 
stirred from time to time. The highest coloured 
red wines treated in the same manner become per- 
fectly limpid. Ivory black possesses the same pro- 
perty as bone black. 

To prepare the charcoal 

Fill a crucible with the most compact parts of 
ox and sheep bones, lute the cover, carefully leav- 
ing only a small opening at the top, place the cru- 
cible on a forge fire, and heat it gradually till red, 
when the flame from the oily and gelatinous parts 
has ceased, diminish the opening and suddenly 
raise the fire, when cold, reduce the charcoal or 
porphyiy ts fine powder. 

To procure pt/roligtuotis acid. 

This acid is procured fr6m any kind of green 
wood (such as cord wood), used for making char- 
coal; a cord of wood (worth in Monmouthshire 
about 8«. ) will produce about eighty gallons. It is 
obtained in the following manner: — A brisk oven is 
filled with coal or wood, until it becomes sufticient- 
ly hot to heat an oven over it to that degree as to 
reduce green wood to a charcoal. The upper oven 
should be closely stopped except, a tube at the top 
to carry oft' the steam or acid, which tube is passed 
through water, and tlie steam thus condensed forms 
Uie acid. 



To prepare the same. 

Place a large cast-iron cylinder, or retort (simi- 
lar to those used for the production of carburetted 
hydrogen gas), in a furnace, so that it may receive 
as much heat, all round, as possible. One end of 
this cylinder must be so constructed as to open and 
shut, to admit wood, and exclude the air. 

Oak in pieces about a foot in length is to be put 
into fhe cylinder, which is to be filled as full as 
possible, without being wedged, and the door must 
be shut close to exclude air; from the cylinder let 
a worm run through cold water to condense the 
acid; by this it is conveyed to a large cask placed 
on one end, where there is a pipe to cirry it from 
that to two or three more; thus it is completely se- 
cured from flying oflf in the vaporous state. The 
fire is now to be raised to a great heat, sufiiciently 
powerful to convert the wood completely into char- 
coal. Wlien the acid ceases to come over, the fire 
I is to be taken out, and the mass of wood left to cool 
in tlie confined state, when it becomes perfect char- 
coal. In the first cask, tar is chiefly contained with 
the acid, it precipitates to the bottom, and is drawn 
ofi" by a cock; it is afterwards boiled in an iron 
boiler to evaporate the acid, before it is fit for use. 
If the acid is not strong enough, it is put into large 
square vats about six inches deep, for the purpose 
of making a large surface, to evaporate a part of 
the water contained in the acid more speedily by a 
slow heat. These vats are bedded on sand upon 
the top of a brick stove, where a gentle heat is ap- 
plied; thus it may be procured in a pretty strong 
state. 

This acid, now well known in Britain as an arti- 
cle of commerce, and in its native state is a liquid 
of tlie colour of white wine, possesses a strong acid 
and slightly astringent taste, combined with an em- 
pyreumatic smell. When allowed to remain in a 
state of rest for eight or ten days, tar of a black 
colour subsides, and the acid is then comparatively 
transparent. To purify it further, it undergoes 
the process of distillation, by which it is freed from 
a still greater portion of the tar, with which it is 
combined, and is thus rendered still more trans- 
parent. But thougli the process of distillation be 
repeated without end, it will never be freed from 
tlie volatile oil with which it is combined, and 
wliich is the cause of the empyreuma constantly 
attending it. In short, it contains the same proper- 
ties for the preservation of animal matters from 
putrefaction as smoking them by wood does, which 
is practised at present by vhe naost barbarous na- 
tions, and which has been handed down from the 
i-emotest ages of antiquity. 

At a recent anniversary of the Whitehaven Philo- 
sophical Society, two specimens of meat cured 
with tlie pyroligneous acid were exhibited by one 
of the members. They were prepared on the 7th 
of September, 1819. One had been hung up at 
home, and the other had been sent out by a vessel 
to the West Indies, to try the effect of climate upon 
it, and brought back on the return of the ship 
to that port. They were tasted by all present, and 
pronounced to be perfectly sweet, fresh and fit for 
use, after a lapse of 15 months. 

Besides its antiseptic use, this acid is employed, 
instead of acetate of lead (sugar of lead), by the 
calico printers, to make their acetate of alumine, 
or iron liquor. Though it is not sufiiciently pure, 
it does well enough for blacks, browns, drabs, &c., 
but for yellows or reds it is not so good, owing to 
the oil and tar which is in combination with it. 



J^ote by the America7i Editor. 
INIost grocers, dealers in hams, and others who 
are particular in their meat, usually take the pre- 
caution tu case each one after it is smoked in can- 



156 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



vns, for the pnrpose of defending it from the at- 
tacks of the little insect (the dermestes lardarius), 
■W'hicli, by la)'in<5 its ei^gs in it, soon fills it with its 
lai'vre, or mago;ots. This troublesome and expen- 
sive pi-ocess may be altosjether superseded by the 
use ot the pyrolin;neous acid. With a painter's brush 
dipped in tiie liquid, one man, in the course of a day, 
may eOectually secure two hundred haras from all 
danger. Care should be taken to insinuate tlie li- 
quid into all tiie cracks Sec. of the under surface. 
To make stroma acetous acid. 
Take of vitriol, calcined to whiteness, 1 lb. sugar 
of lead, 10 drachms. Hub together and distil. 

Anolher. — Take of verdigris, 2 lbs. Dry it in a 
water-bath, then distil in a sand-heat, and re-distil 
tiie produce liquor. Its specific gravity is about 
1,050. 

Another. — Take of sugar of lead, 7 lbs. oil of 
vitriol, 4^ lbs. Distil 2^ lbs. This is used to make 
aromatic vinegar. 

I'he strengtii of distilled acetous acids is exam- 
ined by Tailor^s Revenue Jlcetometci\ wdiicli con- 
sists in saturating a sample of the acid with slaked 
lime, and then ascertaining the specific (juantity 
of the solution. 1"he best malt vinegar. No. 24, 
contains about five iier cent, real acetous acid, and 
is taken as the standard or proof acid, 200 grains of 
■vrhich will saturate 29 grains of well crystallized 
subcarbonate of soda. 'I'lie best common disl'lled 
vinegar is about half this strength. The pyrolig- 
neous acid may be procured of any degree of con- 
centration, from 6 degrees, or 2,898 per cent, of 
acid, up to 130 dcg. or 6,309 per cent, of acid, or 
even higher. I)r Powell states, that a fluid ounce 
of the London College distilled vinegar ought to 
dissolve at least 13 grains of white marble, or 39.67 
i^rains of crystallized subcarbonate of soda, that is 
(i deg. of the Revenue Acefometer. Acetic acid, 
containing 4S per cent, of real acid, dissolves cam- 
phor and the essential oils very readily. 
Acid of ants. 
Take of ants, 1 lb. boiling water, 4 lbs. Infitse 
for tJn-ee hours, press out the liquor, and strain. 
This i#an excellent stimulant, and is used'as a lo- 
tion in impotency. 

Jloney loaterfor the hair. 
Take of honey, 4 lbs. very dry sand, 2 lbs. 
Mix and put into a vessel that will hold five times 
as much; distil with a gentle heat a yellowish acid 
■water: this acid greatly encourages the growth of 
hair. 

Spirit of salt, or marine acid. 
Take of common salt, 10 lbs. common clav, 20 
lbs. water sufficient to make them into balls. Dis- 
til while moist, with a violent heat, and rectify by 
re-distillation. 

Another method. — Take of dried common salt, 
24 lbs. oil of vitriol, 20 lbs. water, 6 lbs. Mix and 
distil into 12 lbs. more of water, kept cool; when 
distilled in an iron pot with a stone-ware head, all 
the water is put into the receivers. A bottle, that 
holds 6 oz. of water, ought to hold 7 oz. of this 
acid, and an ounce measure of it should dissolve 3 
drachms and 2 scruples of limestone, whicli will 
shew if it is free from oil of vitriol. 
Strong' spirit of nitre. 
Take of nitre 6 lbs. oil ot' vitriol 4 lbs. Distil 
to dryness. A bottle, tiiat holds 4 oz. of water, 
ought to hold 6 oz. of this acid, and an ounce mea- 
sure of it, diluted with water, should dissolve 7 
drachms of limestone. 

Another. — Take of nitre 1 lb. clay or brickdust, 
4 lbs. Mix and distil. 

Colourless spirit of nitre. 
Take of nitre, very pure, and dried, oil of vitri- 
ol, each 2 lbs. Distil till red fumes a])pear; re- 
distil from nitre, 1 oz. Tliis will produce 4 lbs. 



Doiible aqiin-furtis. 
Take of spirit of nitre, 3 lbs. water 2 lbs. Or, 
a sufficient quantity that a bottle holding 6 ounces 
of w.ater shall hold 8 ounces of this acid. 

Another'. — Take of green vitriol, calcined al- 
most to redness, of nitre, each equal portions. 
Distil. 

Common aquafortis. 

Take of nitre, and green vitriol, not calcined, 
each 6 lbs. green vitriol, calcined, 3 lbs. Distil. 

Another. — Take of s[iirit of nitre, and distilled 
Avater, of each ecjual portions, by weiglit. A bot- 
tle that holds 6^ oz. of water sliould hold 8 oz. of 
this acid. 

Simple ac[iiarfortis. 

Take of green vitriol 2 lbs. nitre, 1 lb. Distil. 

Another. — Take of spirit of nitre, 2 lbs. water, 
3 lbs. or a sufficient epiantity that a bottle holding 
4J oz. of water should iiold 5 oz. of this acid. 

The stronger kitids of tliis acid are used as a 
caustic for warts, &c. particularly by farriers, for 
which the addition of oil of vitriol is an advantage. 
The accidental mixture of spirit of salt, arising 
from impurities in the nitre, may be got rid of by 
dissolving refined stigar in some of the acid, pour- 
ing off tjie clear, and dropping it into the remain- 
der as long as any precipitate takes place. 
Aqna regia. 

Take of spirit of nitre, 16 oz. common salt, 4 
oz. Dissolve. 

Another. — Take of spirit of nitre, 16 oz. sal am- 
moniac, 4 oz. Dissolve. 

Common acpia reg-ia. 

Take of spirit of salt, 2 lbs. spirit of nitre, 1 lb. 
This will dissolve gold. 

JJepIdogisticated spirit «f salt. 

Take of common salt, 3 lbs. manganese, 1 lb 
oil of vitriol, 2 lbs. water, 1 lb. Distil, placing a 
sufficient quantity of water in the receiver. 

Tiiis spirit is of a pale greenisli yellow, ami 
scarcely heavier liian water. It bleaches linen, 
straw, and takes out fruit spots, iron moulds, oir 
ink marks. 



JNIISCELLANEOUS BEVERAGES. 

To make ginger beer. 

Take of good Jamaica ginger, 2i oz. moist su- 
gar, 3 lbs. cream of tartar, 1 oz. the juice and peel 
of two middling sized lemons, brandy, ^ pint, good 
solid ale yeast, ^ pint, water, 3^ gallons. This 
will produce 4^ dozen of excellent ginger beer, 
which will keep twelve months. Bruise the gin- 
ger and sugar, and boil tliem for 20 or 25 minutes 
in the water, slice the lemon and put it and tiie 
cream of tartar into a large pan; pour the boiling 
liquor upon them, stir it well round, and whet» 
milk warm, add the yeast; cover it over, let it re- 
main two or three days to work, skimming it fre- 
quentlj'; then strain it thi"ough a jelly-bag into a 
cask, add the brandy, bung tiown very close, and 
at tiie end of a fortniglit or three weeks, draw it 
off and bottle, and cork very tight; tie tlie cork 
down witli tw ine or wire. If it does not work well 
at first, add a little more yeast, but be careful of ad- 
ding too much lest it taste ot it. 
Spruce l/eer. 

Take, if white is intended, 6 lbs. of sugar; if 
brown, as much treacle, and a pot of spruce, and 
ten gallons of water. 

Tliis is also managed in the same way as gingc* 
beer, excejit tliat it should be bottled as soon as it 
has done working. 

JBro-vn spntce beer. 

Pour 8 gallons of cold water into a barrel, and 
then boiling 8 gallons more, put tliat in also; add 



DISTELLATIOX. 



157 



12 lbs. of molasses, •with about ^ lb. of the essence 
of spruce; and on its ^ettin^ a little cooler, ^ a pint 
of good ale yeast. The whole being well stirred 
or rolled in the barrel, must be left with the bung 
out for two or tliree days; after which the liquor 
may be immediately bottled, well corked up, and 
packed in saw-dust or sand, when it will be ripe, 
and fit to drink in a fortnight. 

Reraemlier tiiat it should be drawn off into quart 
stone bottles, and wired. 

White spnice beer. 

For a cask of f) gallons, mix well together J lb. 
of the purest essence of spruce, 7 lbs. of loaf sugar 
made into a clarified S)Tup, and about 1^ gallons 
of hot water; and wlien sufilciently stirred and in- 
corporated, put it into the cask, and fill up with 
cold water. Then add about ^ of a pint of good 
ale yeast, shake the cask well, and let it work for 
3 or 4 days; after wliich bung it up. In a few days 
it may be bottled ofl' after the usual manner, and in 
a week or ten days it will be fit for use. If, on 
bunging it close, about i of an oz. of isinglass, first 
dissolved in a little of the warmed liquor, or in ci- 
der, be stirred in, by way of fining, it will acquire 
a superior degree of clearness. In proportion to 
the coldness of the weather, the quantity of yeast 
should be increased. Some, instead of yeast, use 
ale or beer-grounds the first time of making, and 
afterwards the grounds of their former spinice 
beer. In warm weather, very little ferment is re- 
quisite. 

Seltzer loafer. 

Take of water any quantity- Impregnate it with 
about ten times its volume of carbonic acid gtis, by 
means of a forcing pump. 

Liquid JMagnesia. 

Take of water, 1 gallon, carbonate of magnesia, 
3 drachms, and impregnate it as above. 
jPotass -water. 

Take one ounce of subcarbonate of potass, and 
impregnate as above. 

Soda 7vater. 

Take 2 ounces of subcarbocate of soda, and im- 
pregnate as above. 

Portable lemonade. 

Take of tartaric acid, ^ oz. loaf sugar 3 oz. es- 
sence of lemon, h drachm. Powder the tartaric 
acid, and the sugar very fine, in a marble or wedge- 
wood mortar, (observe never to use a metal one) 
mir them together, and pour the essence of lemon 
upon them, by a few drops at a time, stirring the 
mixture after each addition, till the whole is added, 
then mix them thoroughly, and divide it into 12 
equal parts, wrapping each up separately in a piece 
of white paper. When wanted for use, it is only 
necessary to dissolve it in a tumbler of cold water, 
and fine lemonade will be obtained, containing the 
flavour of the juice and t)eel of the lemon, and ready 
sweetened. 

jVutriiiotis dietetic composition. 

Pulverize equal quantities of sago and patent 
cocoa; mix tliem, and stir a table-spoonful in a 
pint of milk, to wliich now add a pint of boiling 
water. Boil the whole for a few minutes, fre- 
quently stirring. Sugar to be added according to 
taste. This breakfast, with bread and butter, &c. 
&e, suits children and adults. 

Sassafras cocoa. 

The fruit of the sassafras-tree is higUy esteem- 
ed in many parts of Soutli America, as a nutritious 
mticle of diet. 

Its substance is the same as that of cocoa; and, 
by means of heat, is convertible into chocolate; but 
m this process, its aromatic quality is dissipate<i. 
This nut, in a ground state, is employed in the 
same manner as cocoa or coffee, by boiling it in 
wster or milk; but, on account of ite aromatic qua- 



lity being very volatile, it requires to be boiled in 
a pot with a close cover, and not for so long a time 
as is requisite for cocoa. Its aromatic virtue ren- 
ders it very pleasant to the jialate, and agreeable 
to the stomach; and, at the same time, possessing 
the well-known correcting properties of the sassa- 
fras root, and tlie nutritious virtues of cocoa, it be- 
comes a valuable article of diet to a great variety 
of invalids. It has been found to recruit exhausted 
strength more rapidly than either cocoa, chocolate, 
or any farinaceous substances, and to sit lighter on 
the stomach than either animal or vegetable jellies. 
To make chocolate. 

Roast the cocoa in a frying pan, placed on a 
clear fire; and having afterwards cleared them of 
the husks, the nuts must be first powdered coarse- 
ly, and afterwards beaten in an iron mortar, the 
bottom of which is made pretty hot, by placing it 
on the fire, till the whole runs into a thick kind of 
oil. In this state it must be poured into thin 
moulds of any size or shape that is agreeable; and, 
when cold, the cakes may be taken out for use. 
The Spaniards mix with their cocoa nuts too great 
a quantity of cloves and cinnamon, besides other 
drugs without number, as musk, ambergris, &c. 
The Parisians use few or none of these ingredients; 
they only choose the best nuts, which are called 
caracca, from the place from whence they are 
brought; and with these they mix a very small 
quantity of cinnamon, the freshest vanilla, and the 
nnest sugar, but very seldom any cloves. Choco- 
late, fresh from the mil|, as it cools in the tin pans 
into which it is received, becomes strongly electri- 
cal: and retains this property for some time after it 
has been turned out of the pans, but soon loses it 
by handling. Tlie power may be once or twice 
renewed by melting it again in an iron ladle, and 
pouring it into the tin pans as at first; but when it 
becomes diy and powdery, the power is not capa- 
ble of being revived by simple melting: but, if a 
small quantity of olive oil be added, and well mix- 
ed with the chocolate in the ladle, its electricity 
will be completely restored by cooling it in thetia 
pan as before. 

Jlnother method. — As the pleasantness of choco- 
late depends, in a great measure, on the method of 
preparing it for the table, it is necessary that the 
strictest attention be paid to the following simple 
direction. To make this chocolate, put the milk 
and water on to boil; then scrape the chocolate fine, 
from one to two squares to a pint, to suit the sto- 
mach; when the milk and water boils, take it oft" 
the fire; throw in the chocolate; mill it well, and 
serve it up with the froth; which process will not 
take 5 minutes. The sugar may either be put in 
with the scraped chocolate or added afterwards. It 
should never be made before it is wanted; because 
heating again injures the flavour, destroys the 
froth, and separates the body of the chocolate; the 
oil of the nut being observed, after a few minutes' 
boiling, or even standing long by tlie fire, to rise 
to the top, which is the only cause why this choco- 
late can offend the most delicate stomach. 
To make native tea. 

The infusion of good well-made meadow hay in 
boiling water, in the manner of tea, about three 
quarters of an ounce for two or three persons, is a 
beverage for the fasting and evening refection, as 
much superior to the dried leaves of China, us 
gold or silver are superior to copper and lead. 

This native tea is as healthful as it is grateful to 
the palate; it is saccharine and aromatic, instead of 
bitter and empyreumatic; it is stimulating to the 
spirits in the morning, and composing to tlie 
nerves at night; it is anti-bilious, and acts with a 
mild, hut sensible effect, at first, on all the secre- 
tions, promotes digestion, aud creates appetite. _ 



158 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Substitute for tea. 

In consequence of the iiijarious effects on the 
etomach and nervous system, produced hy the 
leaves of tlie oriental shrub imported into this 
cotmtrv, under the name of tea, mixtures of 15ri- 
tish herbs have been recommended as a substitute 
for tea and coffee for breakfast, and an evening re- 
past. An infusion of the following composition, 
lately recommended by an eminent physician of 
Edinburgh, has since been found more pleasant to 
the palate, and more salubrious as an article of 
diet, than either of the compositions of herbs. It 
is an excellent nervous stomachic, and in cases of 
indigestion, or what is termed " bilious affec- 
tions" arising either from debility or nervous ir- 
ritability, it has proved highly beneficial after sto- 
machic bitters had entirely failed. It has, like- 
wise, this important advantage over tonic medi- 
cines, and foreign tea and coffee, that its long con- 
tinued use vk'ill not injure the stomach; but, on the 
contrary, by keeping up healthy digestion, and by 
quieting the nerves, is likely to prevent the orga- 
nic diseases of the stomach, which of late years 
have apparently increased in Europe. 

Take of the heels of unfolded petals of the red- 
rose, dried, 5 parts, rosemary leaves, do. 1 do. 
balm leaves, do. 2 do. Mix. 

A dessert spoonful of this composition is sufRcient 
for half a pint of infusion. It is made in the same 
manner as tea, with sugar and cream, or milk. It 
is sold at 2s. and 9d. a pound, — one pound will go 
as far as two pounds of tea. 

Another. — In Germany the leaves oF strawberry 
flowers are substituted for green tea. The follow- 
ing are the directions for preparing them. The 
leaves with the flowers Ave to be gathered in the 
spring, while they are young, and only the smooth- 
est and cleanest leaves selected, as they are not to 
be washed. They must be dried in the air, but 
not in the sun, as drying them in the sun would 
lessen their flavour. To these leaves the Germans 
give the appearance of China tea, by first pinching 
their stalks clean oft', then warming the leaves 
over the fire, rolling them up in the hr.nd while 
they remain flexible, and drying them thus rolled. 
When the leaves are thoroughly dried, the tea is 
fit for use, and on being made exactly in tlie same 
manner as China green tea, it is hardlj' possible to 
discover the dift'erence. The young and tender 
leaves of the sloe tree or black thorn, when dried, 
afford a good substitute for foreign tea. 

Substitute for coffee, cocoa, &c. 

The ground sassafras nut is an excellent substi- 
tute for coffee, cocoa, &c. for breakfast and sup- 
per. It is not only nutritious, but a more effica- 
cious corrector of the habit, in cases of eruptions 
of the skin and scrofula, than the sassafras wood, 
or the compound decoction of sarsaparilla. As a 
powerful preventive of cutaneous aflections, it is 
particularly valuable. It is also an excellent arti- 
cle of diet for rheumatic, gouty, and asthmatic in- 
valids. 

Another. — In America the leaves of the herb, 
commonly called labradore (ledum lilifolia) are 
generally used for breakfast, instead of the Chi- 
nese tea. It is a grateful aromatic bitter, and is 
highly salutary and invigorating. It might easily 
be cultivated in this country, and would flourish 
best in poor light soils. 

Other substitutes for tea and coffee. 

The ill effects of drinking much tea and coffee 
are numerous: they relax the nervous system, and 
!ire some of the causes which occasion the palsy. 
Coffee is made of the roasted berries of a foreign 
plant, of an astringent quality. Tea is made of the 
leaves of an exotic plant, of a relaxing quality. 
Coflee and tea have a pleasant taste, when mixed 



with sugar and milk; and, used in moderation, are 
harmless to those who have plenty of cream or 
new milk to mix with them. Tea is now the universal 
l)reakfast in England; but poor people can oidy af- 
ford to buy the worst sort, which is frequently 
adulterated. That tea affects the nerves, is evi- 
dent from its preventing sleep, occasioning giddi- 
ness and dimness of sight; it is bad for persons 
troubled with wind or bile. 

Tiie raspings of bread will make equally as good 
a breakfast as Mr Hunt's powder, and is perfectly 
wholesome. Any person may make tliis substitute 
for coftee or tea, without being subjected to a fine, 
as no law can be made to prevent people from 
using their bread in any form they please. All 
well-baked bread has a hard crust, mostly of a 
scorched dai'k colour: — with a bread rasp or gra- 
ter, rub the crust oft", whicli will then appear nearly 
like ground coftee. Three or four table spoonsful 
of this powder are sufiicient when mixed with su- 
gar and a little milk, if it can be had, to make a 
liquid for breakfast for one person. Put the bread 
powder into water, let it boil a few minutes, and 
it will be fit for use. 

Milk and water and a little sugar are more 
wholesome for breakfast, than tea or coffee. Take 
one-fourth part of a pint of milk, and mix it with 
three quarters of a pint of water, add as much su- 
gar as will make it as sweet as milk, boil it, and 
pour it into a basin upon some bread cut small. To 
make herb tea, take dried balm, mint, and agri- 
mony, in equal quantities, with a little sage and 
rosemary, if they can be got; cut them small, and 
use them in the same manner as tea. Water gruel 
is more nourishing and wliolesome than lea or 
coftee. 

Another. — Beech mast, or the beech tree, which 
is an oily fiirinaceous nut, and was used in diet, ia 
an early age, may be used as a substitute for cot- 
fee when roasted. Well dried, it makes a whole- 
some bread, and, in this condition, it has served 
for subsistence in times of scai-city; it is now, 
however, used only for fattening hogs, poultry, &c. 

A great quantity of oil may be separated frorn 
tlie bee,ch mast, hy expression. In P'rance it is 
procured in large quantities, and used at table, in- 
stead of olive oil. It possesses an advantage wlJch 
the latter has not, of keeping a long lime without 
turning rancid. 

Another. — Roast any quantity of horse beans in 
a clean frying pan, over a clear fire till they begin 
to darken in colour, and then from the point of a 
knife, continue putting small bits of honey among 
them, stirring them all the while till they become 
of a deep chesnut brown. On taking them off the 
fire, to a quart of beans immediately put an ounce 
of cassia-buds into the pan, and stir them about till 
they get cool. Aftev being gi'ound in the manner 
of coftee, few persons will detect the dift'erence. 

Rye torrefied with a few almonds, which furnish 
the necessary proportion of oil, may also be em- 
ployed as a substitute for coffee. Wheat may be 
substituted for beans. 

Another. — The yellow beet root, when sliced and 
dried in a kiln, and especially if ground with a 
small quantity of Turkey or West India coftee, 
will furnish an excellent substitute for either. It 
requires much less sugar than foreign coftee, and 
is somewhat stronger. Those who cultivate it 
should not strip the plant of its leaves for feeding 
cattle, as is generally practised, for this will injure 
the growth of the plant, and materially alter the 
qualities of the juice. 

To make acorn coffee. 

A pleasant beverage is drank in Germany, called 
the acorn coftee, and is made as follows: 

Take sound ripe acorns, peel oft" the shell or 



DISTILLATION. 



15!) 



husk, divide the kernels, diy them gradually, and 
then roast them in a close vessel, or roaster, keep- 
ing th.em continually stirring. Care must be taken 
not to burn or roast them too much. Take of these 
roasted acorns, ground like other coffee, halt" an 
ounce alone, or mixed with a drachm of other cof- 
fee, and sweeten with sugar, with or without milk. 

Acorns liave always been esteemed a wholesome 
and strengthening nutriment for man, and iheir 
medicinal qualities have been found to cure the 
slimy obstructions of the viscera, and to remove 
nervous complaints, when other medicines have 
failed — for tliough acorns are looked upon to be so 
great an astringent as to be sparingly used, either 
externally or internally, by being roasted, they 
lose their astringent quality, and hence have no 
more that effect than coffee. This coflee is also 
particularly efficacious with respect to women 
whose complaints arise from disorders peculiar to 
their sex. 

Another method. — As the acorn is deficient of 
the oleaginous prmciples inherent to coffee, this 
may be remedied by the following process, and the 
fruit of the oak may be tlien recommended. Let 
the acorns be toasted brown, then add fresh butter, 
in small pieces to them, wiiile hot, in tlie ladle. 
Stir them with care, or cover the ladle and shake 
it, tliat the whole may be well mixed. 
To make coffee. 

The best coffee is imported from Mocha. It is 
said to owe much of its superior quality to being 
kept long; attention to the following circumstances 
is likewise necessary. 1. The plant should be 
grown in a dry situation and climate. 2. The ber- 
ries ought to be thoroughly ripe before they are 
gathered. 3. They ought to be well dried in the 
sun; and 4. Kept at a distance from any substance, 
(as spuits, spices, dried fish, &c. ) by which the 
taste and flavour of tiie berr)' may be injured. 

To drink coffee in perfection, it should be made 
from the best Mocha berries, carefully roasted, and 
after cooling for a few minutes, reduced to powder, 
and immediately infused; the tincture will tlien be 
of a superior description. But for common use, 
the coft'ee of our own plantations is, in general, of 
very good quality, and the following mode of pre- 
paring it may be adopted. 

1. The hemes should be carefully roasted, by a 
gradual application of heat, scorching,but not burn- 
ing them. 

2. Grinding the coffee has been found preferable 
to pounding, because the latter process is thought 
to press out, and leave on the sides of the mortar, 
some of the richer oily substances, which are not 
lost by grinding. 

3. X filtrating tin, or silver pot, ■with double 
sides, between which hot water must be poured, to 
prevent tlie coffee from cooling, as practised in 
Germany, is the best machine to be used. Simple 
infusion in this implement, with boiling water, is 
all that is required to make a cup of good coffee; 
and the use of isinglass, the white of eggs, &c. to 
fine the liquor is quite unnecessary. By this 
means, also, coffee is made quicker than tea. 

In England, too little powder of the berry is 
commonly given. It requires about one small cup 
of coffee-powder to make four cups of tincture for 
the table. Tiiis is at the rate of an ounce of good 
])0wder to four common coffee cups. When the 
jiowder is put in the bag, as many cups of boiling 
water are poured over it as may be wanted, and if 
the quantity wanted is very small, so that after it 
IS filtrated it does not reach the lower end of the 
bag, the liquor must be poured back three or four 
times, till it has acquired the necessary strength. 

By following these plain directions, it is to be 
hoped that % wlujlesorae and valuable production I 



of our own colonies will come into more general 
use; and that foi-eigners will no longer have any 
ground to assert, that tliey very rarely meet with a 
cu]) of tolerable coffee in England. 

Another metlml. — Pour a pint of boiling water 
on an ounce of coffee; letit boil five or six minutes, 
then pour out a cupful two or three times, and re- 
turn it again; put two or three isinglass chips into 
it, or a lump or two of fine sugar; "boil it five mi- 
nutes longer, set the pot by the fire to keep hot 
for ten minutes, and the coffee will be beautifully 
clear. Some like a small bit of vanilla. Creimi 
should always be served witJi cofiee, and either 
pounded sugar candy, or fine Lisbon sugar. J'^or 
foreigners, or those who like it extremely strong, 
make only eight dishes from three ounces. If not 
fresh roasted, lay it before a fire till hot and dry; 
or put the smallest bit of fresh butter into a pre- 
serving pan, when hot throw the cofi'ee into it, and 
toss it about till it be freshened. 

Coffee most certainly promotes watchfulness; or, 
in other words, it suspends the inclination to sleep. 
To those, therefore, who wish not to be subject tt) 
tiiis inclination, coft'ee is undoubtedly preferable to 
wine, after dinner, or periiaps to any other liquor. 

Were coffee substituted instead of wine imme- 
diately after dinner, it seems more than probable 
that many atlvantages would flow from it, botli to 
the health of individuals and general economy; and 
it seems not improbable tiiat by deferring coflee, 
or tea, so late as is usually practised, we interrupt 
digestion, and add a new load of matter to that al- 
ready in the stomach, wliicli, after a full meal, is 
not a matter of indifierence. 

Persons afilicled witli asthma have found great 
relief and even a cure, by drinking very strong 
coflee, and those of a \)hleguiatic habit would do 
well to take it for breakfast. It is rather of a dry- 
ing nature, and with corpulent habits it would also 
be advisable to take it for breakfast. 

Jlrabian method of preparing coffee. 

The Arabians, when tliey take their coftee off 
the fire, immediately wrap tlie vessel in a wet 
cloth, which fines the liquor instantly, makes it 
cream at the top, and occasions a more pungent 
steam, which tliey take great pleasure in snufling 
up as the coftee is iiouring into the cups. They, 
like all other nations of the East, drink their coftee 
without sugar. 

People of the first fashion use nothing but Sulta- 
na coftee, whicli is prepared in the following man- 
ner. Bruise the outward husk or dried ])ulp, and 
put it into an iron or earthen pan, v\ hieh is placed 
upon a charcoal fire; then keep stirring it to and 
fro, until it "becomes a little brown, but not of so 
deep a colour as common coffee; then throw it into 
boiling water, adding at least the fourth part of the 
inward husks, wliich is then boiled altogether ir; 
the manner of other coftee. The husks must be 
kept in a very dry place, and packed up very close, 
for the least humidity spoils the flavour. The li- 
quor prepared in this manner is esteemed prefera- 
ble to any other. The French, when they were at 
the court of the king of Yemen, saw no other cof- 
fee drank, and they found the flavour of it very de- 
licate and agreeable; there was no occasion to use 
sugar, as it had no bitter taste to correct. 

In all probability the Sultana coft'ee can only be 
made where the tree grows; for as the husks have 
little substance, if they are too much dried, in or- 
der to send them to other countries, the agreeable 
flavour they had when fresh, is greatly impaired. 
Jmprovej'ient in making coffee. 

The process consists in simmering over a small 
but steady flame of a lamp. To .accomplish this, a 
vesselof peculiar construction is requisite: it should 
be a straight-sided pot, as wide at top a^j al boltoni. 



-60 



UXIYERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



and inclosed in a case of similar sliape; to which 
it must be soldered air tight at tiie top. Tlie case 
to be above an inch wider tlian the pot, and de- 
scending somewhat less than an incli below it. It 
should he entirely open at the bottom, thus admit- 
ting and confining a body of hot air round and un- 
derneath tiie pot. The lid to he double, and the 
vessel, of course, furnished with a convenient han- 
dle and spout. 

The extract may be made, either with hot water 
or cold. If wanted for speedy use, hot water, not 
actually boiling, will he proper, and the powdered 
coffee beir.g added, close the lid tight, stop the 
spout with a cork, and place the vessel over the 
lamp. It will soon begin to simmer, and may re- 
main unattended, till the coffee is wanted. It may 
tlien be strained tlirough a bag of stout, close li- 
nen, which will transmit the liquid so perfectly 
clear as not to contain the smallest particle of the 
powder. 

Though a fountain lamp is preferable, any of 
liie common small lamps, seen in every tin shop, 
■will answer the purpose. Pure spermaceti oil is 
required, and if the wick be too liigli, or tlie oil 
not good, the consequence will be smoke, soot, 
and extinction. The wick should be little more 
than one eighth of an inch high. In this process, 
no trimming or other attention is required. It may 
he left to simmer, and will continue simmering all 
night, without boiling over, and without f ly sen- 
sible diminution of quantity. 

Parisian method of making' coffee. 

In the fust place, let the'coffee be of prime quali- 
ty, — grain, small, round, hard.nnd cleat; perfectly 
diy and sweet; and at least three years olil — let it 
be gently roasted until it be of a light brown co- 
lour; avoid burning, for a single scorched grain 
will spoil a pound. Let this operation be perform- 
ed at tiie moment the coffee is to be used; tiien 
grind it while it is yet warm, and take of the pow- 
<3er an ounce for each cup intended to he made; 
jiut tliis along with a small quantity of shredded 
salFron into tlie upper part of ttie machine, called 
&grecque; that is, a large coffee pot with an upper 
receptacle made to fit close into it, the bottom of 
wliich is perforated with small holes, and contain- 
ing in its interior two moveable metnl strainers, 
over the second of which the powder is to be plac- 
ed, and immediately under the third; upon tliis u\»- 
per strainer, pour boiling water and continue doing 
so gently until it bubbles up through the sirainer; 
then shut the cover of the machine close down, 
place it near ttie fire, and so soon as the water has 
drained through the coffee, repeat the operation 
until the whole intended quantity be passed. — 
Thus all the fragrance of its perfume will be re- 
tained, witli all the balsamic and stimulating pow- 
ei'S of its essence; and in a few mometits will be 
obtained — without the aid of hartshorn shavings, 
isinglass, whiles of eggs, or any of tiie trash witli 
which, in the common mode of preparation, it is 
mixed — a bever.ige for the gods. Tliis is the true 
Parisian mode of preparing coffee; the invention 
of it is due to M. de Belloy, neph^jv to the Cai-di- 
nal of tlie same name. 

Co fee milk. 

Boil a dessert spoonfal of ground coffee in about 
a pint of milk, a quarter of an hour; then put into 
it a shaving or two of isinglass, and clear it; let it 
boil a fi'w minutes, and set it on the side of the 
lire to fine. This is a very fine breakfast, and 
should be sweetened with real Lisbon sugar. 

Tiiose of a spare habit, and disposed towards af- 
fections of the lungs, would do well to make this 
their breakfast. 

To make mum. 

Mum is a kind of malt liquor, much drunk in 



Germany and formerly in EnglantL The name 
commonly occurs in the statutes relating to excise- 
able li(iuors. 

Take G.3 gallons of water that has been boilefl 
into a tliird part, brew it witli seven bushels of 
wheatened pialt, one bushel of oat malt, and one 
bushel of ground beans; when it has worked or 
fermented awhile in a liogshead not too full, put 
into it of inner rind of fir, .3 lbs., tops of fir and 
birch, 1 lb., cardmis benedictiis, 3 handsful, flow- 
ers from soils, a hand or two; burnet, bctony mar- 
joram, pennyroyal, Avild tliynie, of each a handful; 
of elder flowers, two handsful, seeds of cardamom, 
bruised, 30 ounces; barberries, bruised, 1 ounce. 

When the liquor has done working, fill it up, 
and at last, put into the hogshead 10 new laid eggs; 
stop it up close, and in two years it will be fit tor 
use. 



MUCILAGINOUS OILS. 



To make oil of s^veet almonds. 

It is usually made from bitter almonds for cheap 
riess, or from old Jordan almonds by heat, the oil 
from whicli soon grows rank, while that from fresh 
Barbary almonds, drawn cold, will keep good for 
some time. Tlie almonds are sometimes blanched 
by dipping in boiling water or by soaking some 
hours in cold water, so as to part with their skia 
easily; but are more usually ground to a paste, 
which is put into canvas bags, and pressed between 
iron plates, in a screw press, or by means of a 
wedge; 1 cwt. of bitter almonds unblanched, pro- 
duces 46 lbs. of oil; the cake pays for pressing. 
JS'ut oil 

la obtained from the kernel of the hazel nut, and 
is very fine; it is substituted for oil of ban; as it 
will keep better than that of almonds, it has been 
proposed to be substituted for that oil; it is drank 
with tea, in China, probably in lieu of cream, and 
is used by painters, as a superior vehicle for their 
colours. 

Oil of mace 

la obtained fi'om nutrnegs by the press; it isbut« 
tei7, having the smell and colour of mace, but 
grows paler and harder by age; 2 lbs. of nutmegs 
in Europe will yield 6 oz. of this oil. 

Tnie oil of mace by expression. 

This oil is red, remains always liquid, or soft, 
has a strong smell of mace, sub-acid taste, and is 
imported in jars or bottles, the lower part beins; 
raliicr tiiicker than the top; IJ lbs. of mace will 
yield in Europe an ounce and a half, troy, of oil. 
Olive, salad, or siveet oil. 

This is the most agreeable of all the oils; it is 
demulcent, emollient, gently laxative, and is also 
used as an emetic with warm water; dose, 1 oz. 
troy, or a large spoonful: also externally, wheu 
warm, to the bites of serpents, and when cold, to 
tumours and dropsies. Rank oil is best for plas» 
ters: but fresh oil makes the best hard soap. 
Castor oil. 

This is either imported from the West Indies, 
where it is obtained by decoction with w.iter, 10 
lbs. of seeds yielding 1 lb. of oil; or from the East 
Indies, where it is obtained by grinding in a mor- 
tar, with a hole in the side for the supernatant oil to 
run ofl", being in common use there for lamp oil. Or, 
that made at home by the press, which is the best, 
especially some that is prepared from cold blanch- 
ed seeds, with the eye taken out. Some chemists 
are said to take out the colour from the foreign oils, 
by certain additions, and sell them for English, or, 
as it is called, cold drawn castor oil. The virosiiy 
communicated to the oil by the eyes of the seeds 
may be got rid of by washing the oil willi boiling 



DISTILLATION'. 



IGl 



water, cr with weak oil of viti<ol. It is soluble in 
, %varm spirit of wine, and its adulteration may tlms 
be discovered, if thought necessary; but as all the 
fat oils have nearly similar qualities, the taste is 
sufficient for practical purposes. It is purgative in 
<loses of from 1-2 an oz. to 1 1-2 oz. floated on 
some distilled water, or on wine; or if it docs not 
usually stay well ontiie stomach, on some tincture 
of senna; or made into an emulsion with yolk of 
egg, and a little distilled water, willi 20 drops of 
lavender, and a tea-spoonful of simple syrup; it 
may also be used in clysters. It is particularly use- 
ful where a stimulant would be Iiurtful; as it ope- 
rates quiclvly v/itbout disturbing the system; also 
externally in swelling pains. Contrary to most me- 
dicines, on frequent repetition a less dose is suffi- 
cient. 

Oil ofcroton. 
This oil is extracted from Molucca grains, or 
purging nuts. In its cliemical qualities it agrees 
with castor oil, but is considerably more. active, as 
a single drop, when the oil is genuine, is a power- 
ful cathartic. 

Rape oil. 
Tliis is made from rape seed; it dries slowly, 
makes but a softish soap, fit for ointments: the mu- 
cilage it contains may b« got rid of, in a great mea- 
sure, by adding half an ounce of oil of vitriol to 
two pints of tlie oil. 

To purify rape oil. 
The following is a simple method of rendering 
rape oil equal to spermaceti oil, for tlie jiurposes 
of illumination. 

Begin bj' washing the oil with spring water: 
■which is effected by agitating the oil violently with 
a sixth part of the water. This separates the par- 
ticles of the oil, and mixes those of the water inti- 
mately with them. After this operation, it looks 
like the yolk of eggs beat up. In less than forty- 
eight hours they separate completely, the oil swim- 
ming at the top, the water, with all feculent and 
extraneous particles, subsiding to the bottom. This 
may be very much improved, by substituting sea- 
water in the place of fresh water. 

By the process of washing, the oil does not lose 
a hundredth part. The experiment can at all 
limes be made in a glass decanter, or in a churn, 
with a cook at the bottom, the water to come up 
very near to the cock, by which all the oil can be 
drawn off, after it has deposited its impurities. 

Another method. — To 100 parts of oil add 1^ or 
2 of concentrated sulphuric acid, and mix the whole 
well by agitation, when the oil will become turbid, 
and of a blackish-green colour. In about tliree 
quarters of an hour, the colouring matter Avill be- 
gin to collect in clots; the agitation should tlien be 
di.scontinued, and clean water, twice the weight of 
the sulphuric acid, be added. To mix the water 
Tvitli the oil and acid, a further agitation of half an 
Lour will be requisite. The mass may, afterwards, 
be left to clarify for eight days, at the end of 
which time three separate fluids will be perceived 
in the vessel; the upper is the clear oil, the next is 
the sulphuric acid and water, and the lowest, a 
black mud or fecula. Let the oil then be separat- 
ed by a syphon from the acid and water, and fil- 
trated through cotton or wool; it will be nearly 
without colour, smell, or taste, and will buru 
cleai-ly and quietl}- to the last drop. 

To purify vegetable oil. , 
To 100 pounds of oil, add 25 ounces of roche 
alum, and mix, dissolved in 9 pounds of boiling 
■water. After stirring it about half an hour, add 15 
ounces of nitric acid, still continuing to stir it. 
Let it stand forty-eight hours, when the fine oil will 
S'*'im on the surface, and then draw it off. Such 
«U is used all over tlie coutiuent, and an equal 
V 



' quantity yields double the light of ■whale jsid fish 
oil, without its offensive odour. 

To make pitmpkin oil. 

From the seeds of the pumpkin, which are gene- 
rally thrown away, an abundance of an excellent 
oil may be extracted. When peeled, they yield 
much more oil than an equal quantity of flax. This 
oil burns well, gives a lively light, lasts longer 
than other oils, and emits very little smoke. It 
has been used on the continent for frying fisli, &c. 
The cake remaining after the extraction of the oil 
may be given to cattle, who eat it with avidity. 
JSeech nut oil. 

Beech nuts are not only an excellent food for 
pigs, but tliey are known to yield an oil, fit for com- 
mon purposes, by the usual methods of extraction. 
To extract oil from grape stones. 

In Italy an useful oil is drawn from the grape 
stones. In order to separate the seeds from the 
husks and refuse matter, the mash is put into a 
bucket with some water, and worked about witl» 
the hands, until the seeds, from their superior 
weight, have fallen to the bottom of the vessel. 
They are tiien to be removed and dried in tlie fin, 
or by any other way, as soon as possible; when a 
sufilcient quantity is collected, the whole is to be 
ground in the same kind of mill that is used for 
hemp and cole-seed: being then cold drawn, afiive 
oil is procured, which is scarcely distinguishable 
from common olive oil. Tiie refuse matter, being 
scalded in a little hot water, yields a fresh portio;i 
of oil, though of an inferior quality, which burns 
excellently well in a lamp, giving out no unplea- 
sant odour, and vei-y little smoke. By taking the 
loppings or prunings of the vine, excellent vinegar 
may be made from the same, and even wine with 
the aid of sugar. 



AJSOMAL OILS AMD FATS. 

7/o^'s lard. 

This is obtained like the rest of the animal fats 
from the raw lard, by chopping it fine, or rather 
rolling it out to break the cells in which the fat is 
lodged, and then melting the fat in a water bath, 
or other gentle heat, and straining it while warm; 
some boil them in water; but the fats, thus obtain- 
ed, are apt to grow rank much sooner than when 
melted by themselves. 

JK'eat's feel or trotter oil 

Obtained by boiling neat's feet, ti-ipe, &c. in 
water; it is a coarse animal oil, very emollient, and 
much used to soften leather. 

To petrify trotter oil. 

Put 1 quart of trotter oil into a vessel containing 
a quart of rose-water, and set them over a fire till 
the oil melts and mixes with the rosewater. Stir 
well with a spoon. When properly combined, 
take the vessel from the fire, and let it cool. Now 
take off the oil with a spoon, and add rose-water, 
as before. AVhen the oil is again separated and 
cleansed, set it in a cool place. The principal use 
of trotter oil is for the making of cold cream, iri 
which its qualities exceed those of every other oil. 
'J 'o prepare oil from yolks of eggs. 

Boil the eggs hard, and after separating t!ie 
whites break the yolks into two or three pieces, 
and roast them in a frying pan till the oil begins to 
exude; then press them with very great force. 
Fifty eggs yield about 5 ounces of oil. Old eggs 
yield the greatest quantity. 

Anotlier method. — Dilute the raw yolks with a 
lai-ge proportion of water, and add spirit of ■wine 
to sepiu-ate the albumen, when the oil will rise on 
the top after standing some time, and t)ms may be 
separated by a fuaueJ. 



162 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To refine spermaceti. 

Spermaceti is usually brought home in casks; 
and, in some cases, has so little oil mixed with it 
as to obtain the denomination of head matter. It 
is of the consistence of astift' ointment, of a yel- 
lowish colour, and not tenacious. Resides the 
liead matter, there is also a quantity of sperm ob- 
tained from the oil by filtration. Indeed, in all 
good spermaceti lamp oil, which is not transparent, 
particles of the sperm may be seen floating. ' 

Having the head-matter, or filtered sperm, in 
order to purify it, first put it into hair cloths, and 
■with an iron plate between each cloth, to the num- 
ber of half a dozen, or more, submit it to the ac- 
tion of an iron screw-press; and, as the oil does 
not separate very readily, it will, in general, be ne- 
cessary to let the cakes of sperm be pressed three 
different times. The third time the cakes will be- 
come so dry that they may be broken in small 
pieces with little trouble, and then put in a furnace 
containing l-3d water, and 2-3ds cake. Let the 
fire be raised sufficiently under the furnace to melt 
the cake, which it will do before the water begins 
to ^il: after which, boil the whole together for 
about half an hour, taking off", during the boiling, 
■what scum and other extraneous bodies rise to the 
top; then let the whole be dipped out into a tub, or 
other coolers. After it is completely cohl, take off 
the cake of spermaceti, which will be on the top of 
the water, and cut it into pieces. Suppose, for ex- 
ample, that the cake weighs one hundred weight, 
it will be necessary to have a furnace, or rather a 
rnoveable kettle, where the light is thrown in such 
a way that the process can be observed. Having 
taken one hundred weight of the unrefined sper- 
maceti, prepared as above, nielt it together with 
about 3 gallons of water. As soon as it begins to 
boil, add, from time to time, small portions of the 
following liquor, say half a pint at a time: — Take 
of the alkaline salt, or pot-ash, 7 pounds. Pour on 
it 2 gallons of water; let tiiem stand together twen- 
ty-four hours, and from the top dip off" the ley as 
■wanted, adding more water occasionally till the al- 
kali is exhausted. After boiling the spermaceti 
for about four hours, having during the process ta- 
ken off" the scum as it arose, let the kettle be re- 
moved from the fire, and after remaining about a 
quarter of an hour, dip oft' the spermaceti into 
suitable coolers. This process must, in general, 
be repeated three times. The third time, if the 
processes have been properly conducted, the sper- 
maceti will be as clear as crystal; and then, after it 
is cool, the only thing necessary to make it fit for 
sale, is to cut it into raoderateV small pieces, 
■when it will break into that flakey appearance 
■which it has in the shops. 

To sraeeten, purify, and refine Greenland ivhale 
and seal oil. 

The oil, in its raw state, is filtered through bags, 
about 41 inches long, with circular mouths, ex- 
tended by a wooden hoop, about 15 inches in dia- 
meter, fixed thereto. These bags are made of jean, 
lined with flannel; between which jean and flannel 
powdered charcoal is placed, throughout, to a re- 
gular thickness of about half an inch, for the purpose 
of retaining the glutinous particles of the oil, and 
straining it from impui'ities; and the bags are 
quilted, to prevent the charcoal from becoming 
thicker in one part than another, and to keep the 
linings more compact. The oil is pumped into a 
large funnel, made of tin, annexed to the pump 
though a perpendicular pipe, and passed from the 
funnel into another pipe placed over the bags hori- 
zontally, from whence it is introduced into them 
by Cocks. The oil runs from the filtering bags in- 
to a cistern, about 8 feet long by 4 feet broad, and 
^ deep, made of wood, and lined -with lead, and 



containing water at tie bottom, about the depth of 
5 or inches, in which are dissolved about 6 ouncea 
of blue vitriol, for the purpose of drawing down 
the glutinous and oft'ensive particles of the oil, 
which have escaped through the charcoal, and 
thereby rendering it clean and fi-ee from the un- 
pleasant smell attendant upon the oil in the raw 
state; and, in order to enable tlie oil thus to rua 
from the bags, they are hung in a frame or rack, 
made like a ladder, with the spokes or rails at suf- 
ficient distances to receive the hoop of the bag be- 
tween two; arid such frame or rack is jilaced in a 
horizontal position over the cistern. The oil is 
suiTered to run into the cistern until it stands to 
the depth of about 2 feet in the water, and there to 
remain for 3 or 4 days, (according to llie quality of 
the oil), and is then drawn oft' by a cock, which is 
fixed in the cistern a little above the water, into a 
tub or other vessel, when it will be found to be 
considenibly purified and refined, and the oil, after 
having undergone this operation, may be rendered 
still more pure, by passing a second or third time 
through similar bags and cisterns. But the oil, af- 
ter such second and third process, is drawn ofi"into, 
and filtered through, additional bags, made of 
jean, lined with flannel, inclosed in other bags, 
made of jean, doubled, when the process is com- 
plete. 

To purify fish oils, and apply the refuse to usefid 
purposes. 
The object of this invention is the refining not 
only of fish-oil, but of the oils obtained from all 
animal substances, and also from expressed vege- 
tables. The mode of performing this is by mixing 
the oil with an infusion of tannin. Mr Speers, of 
Dublin, recommends the tannin of oak-bark, but 
any tannin, whether natural from oak or other 
barks, or artificial, will answer the purpose. The 
mode which he prefers is the f(^llowing: Take equ-al 
quantities of oil and soft water; in tlis water infuse 
and agitate for a day or two about one-tenth part of 
its weight of tannin; it is then to be drawn off fine, 
and the oil and water to be mixed and boiled for 
some time, and then set by to cool. The tannin 
will, by means of chemical attraction, unite with 
the gelatine or mucilage, and, being heavier than 
oil, will sink below it; but being lighter than water 
it will swim above it; in other words, this refuse 
matter will be found between the oil and the water. 
The oil is first to be drawn oft' and then the refitse 
matter may be obtained. This matter may be ap- 
plied to the formation of cements and stucco; or to 
the composition of paints and varnishes; or to the 
composition of an excellent blacking for leather, 
which will by that means be made water-proof. 

Another method. — A method of purifying com- 
mon fish-oil, and rendering it equal to the best 
sperm oil, by the use of animal charcoal, has late- 
ly been discovered in Denmark. The description 
is very incomplete, but mentions that beef bones, 
which have been boiled, are made into animal char- 
coal in a peculiar way. The ciiarcoal is mixed with 
the oil, and repeatedly agitated for two months, 
after which it is filtered through several strata of 
t charcoal, and used as soon as made. The quantity 
of gas evolved by the bones in the operation is con- 
siderable, and is used for lighting the manufactory 
and adjacent buildings. Tlie residuum is mixed 
with clay for fuel. The loss in this process is es- 
timated at 15 per cent., and the gain is equal to 40 
per cent., leaving a balance in favour of the dis- 
covery of 25 i)er cent. 

The peculiar method of making the charcoal, 
probably consists in not beating the bones too much, 
it is well known by the animal charcoal makers in 
London, that if the tenoperature be raised too high, 
tlie charcoal is worth nothina;. 



COOKERY. 



163 



Jtnother. — Take a gallon of crude stinking oil, 
fnd mix with it a quarter of an ounce of powdered 
ehalk, a quarter of an ounce of lime, slaked in the 
air, and half a pint of water; stir them together; 
and when they have stood some hours, add a pint 
of water, and two ounces of pearl-ashes, and place 
the mixture over a fire that will just keep it sim- 
mering, till the oil appears of a light amber co- 
lour, and has lost all smell, except a hot, greasy, 
soap-like scent. Then superadd half a pint of wa- 
ter in which one ounce of salt has been dissolved, 
and having boiled it half an hour, pour the mix- 
ture into a proper vessel, and let it stand for some 
days, till the oil and water separate. 

If this operation be repeated several times, di- 
minishing each time the quantity of ingredients 
one iialf, the oil may be brought to a very light 
colour, and be rendered equally sweet with the 
common spermaceti oil. 

Oil purified in this manner is found to burn 
much better, and to answer better the purposes of 
tlie woollen manufacture. If an oil be wanted thick- 
er and more unctuous, this maybe rendered so by 
the additi-sn of tallow or fat. 



To prepare oils for tlve mamifaclvre of hard soap. 
Let the oil be ground in a mill, along witli a 
quantity of fine new-slaked lime, till it becomes of 
the consistence of thick cream: this being done, let 
an iron pan be filled one-eighth full of this mix- 
ture, to wliich is to be added an equal quantity of 
unprepared oil, the whole being well stirred to- 
gether. A brisk fire is now to be made under the 
pan, the contents of which will soon swell to the 
top, and afterwards subside; the fire and stirring 
must, however, be still kept up, till the mixture 
begins to swell and boil a second time, emitting 
thick clouds of steam; another portion of oil is iioW- 
to be added and stirred briskly in, till this ebulli- 
tion is suppressed; the lime being now united to 
the oil, the mass, when cold, will be of the consist- 
ence of wax. To make hard soap with tlie oil thus 
prepared, let tallow, rosin, grease, or unprepared 
oil, be added in the proportion of one half, and 
melted, to which add a ley, made of mineral al- 
kali. When a i>erfect combination has taken place, 
by boiling and stirring, let the soap be taken out, 
and cleansed into frames: from which there will 
be, as usual, a small discharge of impure ley, aftfei" 
whicli the soap is ready for use. 



CU^XNAR? ARTS. 



COOKERY. 

To boil meats, &c. 

This most simple of culinary processes is not 
often performed in perfection, though it does not 
require so much nicety and attendance as roasting; 
to skim the pot well, and to keep it moderately 
boiling, and to know how long the joint requires, 
comprehends the most useful point of this branch 
of cookery. The cook must take especial care that 
the water really boils all the while she is cooking, 
or she will be deceived in the time. An adept cook 
vill manage with much less fire for boiling tiian 
she uses for roasting, and to last all the time with- 
out much mending. When the water is coming 
to a boil there will always rise from the cleanest 
meat a scum to the top, this must be carefully taken 
off as soon as it appears, for on this depends the 
good appearance of a boiled dinner. When you 
have skimmed it well, put in a little cold water, 
which will throw up the rest of it. If let alone, it 
soon boils down and sticks to the meat, which, in- 
stead of looking white and healthful, will have a 
coarse and uninviting appeai'ance. 

Many cooks put in milk to make what they boil 
look white, but this does more harm than good; 
others wrap the meat in a cloth; but if it is well 
skimmed it will have a much more delicate ap- 
pearance than when it is muffled up. 

Put the meat into cold water in the proportion 
of about a quart to eveiy pound of meat; it should 
reiAain covered during the whole process of boil- 
ing, but only just so. Water beyond what is ab- 
solutely necessaiy renders the meat less savoury 
and weakens the broth. 

The water should be gradually heated accord- 
ing to the thickness, &c. of the article boiled; for 
instance, a leg of mutton of 10 lbs. weight should 
be placed over a moderate fire, which -will gradu- 
ally heat the water without causing it to boil, for 
about forty luiautes. If tlie water boils much 



sooner, the meat will be hardened, and shrink up 
as if it were scorched. Reckon the time from its 
first coming to a boil; the slower it boils tlie ten- 
derer, the plumper, and whiter it will be. For 
those who choose their food thoroughly cooked, 
twenty minutes to a pound will not be found too 
much for gentle simmering by the side of tlie fire. 
Fresh killed meat will take much longer time 
boiling than that which has been kept till what the 
butchers call ripe; if it be fresh killed it will be 
tough and hard if stewed ever so long, and ever so 
gently. The size of the boiling pots should be 
adapted to what thej- are to contain; in small fa- 
milies we recommend block tin sauce-pans. &c. as 
lightest and safest, taking care that the covers fit 
close, otlierwise the introduction of smoke may be 
the means of giving the meat a bad taste. Beef and 
mutton a little underdone is not a great fault, but 
lamb, pork, and veal are vmeatable and truly un- 
wholesome, if not thoroughly boiled. Take care 
of the liquor in which poultry or meat has been 
boiled, as an addition of peas, herbs, fete, will con- 
vei't it into a nourishing soup. 

To bake meats, &c. 

This is one of the cheapest and most convenient 
ways of dressing a dinner in small families, and 
although the general superiority of roasting must 
be allowed, still certain joints and dishes, such as 
legs and loins of pork, legs and shoulders of mut- 
ton, and fillets of veal, will bake to great advan- 
tage, if the meat be good. - Besides those joints 
above mentioned, we shall enumerate a few baked 
dishes which may be particularly recommended. 

A pig when sent to the baker prepared for bak- 
ing, should have its ears and tail covered with but- 
tered paper, and a bit of butter tied up in a piece 
of linen to baste the back with, otherwise it will he 
apt to blister. If well baked it is considered equal 
to a roasted one. 
' A goose prepared the same as for roasting, or a 



164 



UXUTiiRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



cluck placed upon a stand and turned, as soon as one 
side is done, upon the oIIkt, arc ennally good. 

A buttock of ))eef, prepared as follows, is par- 
ticularly tine: after it lias been put in salt about a 
■week, let it be well washed and put into a br,;"'n 
earthen pan with a pint of water; cover the i>.;n 
light over M'ith '2 or 3 thicknesses of cap paper, and 
give it four or five hours in a moderately heated 
oven. 

A ham, if not too old, put in soak for an hour, ta- 
ken out and baked in a moderately heated oven, 
cuts fuller of gi'avy, and of a finer flavour than a 
boiled one. 

Cod fish, haddock, and mackarel, should have a 
dust of flour and some bits of butter spread over 
them. Eels when large and slutted, herrings and 
sprats, are put in a brown pan, with vinegar and a 
little spice, and tied over with paper. 

A hare, prepared the same as for roasting, with 
a few bits of butter and a little milk, put into the 
dish and basted several times, will be found nearly 
equal to roasting: in the same manner legs and 
shins of beef will" be equally good with proper ve- 
getable seasoning. 

To roast meats, Zic. 

The first thing requisite for roasting is to have a 
strong steady fire, or a clear brisk one, according 
to the size and weight of the joint that is put down 
to the spit. A cook, who does not attend to this, 
will prove herself totally incompetent to roast vic- 
tuals properly. All roasting should be done open 
to the air, to ventilate the meat from its gross 
fumes, otherwise it becomes baked instead of roast- 
ed. The joint should be put down at such a dis- 
tance from the fire as to imbibe the heat rather 
quiclcly, otiierwise its plumpness and good quality 
will be gradually dried up, and it will turn shriv- 
elly, and look meagre. When the meat is first put 
down, it is necessary to see that it balances well 
on the spit, otherwise the process of cooking will 
be veiy troublesome. Wiien it is warm, begin to 
baste it well, which prevents the nutritive juices 
escaping; and, if required, additional dripping must 
be used for that purpose. 

As to sprinkling with salt while roasting, most 
able cooks dispense with it, as the penetrating par- 
ticles of the salt have a tendency to draw out the 
animal juices; however, a little salt thrown on, 
"when first laid down, is sometimes necessary, with 
strong meats. When the smoke draws towards 
the fire, and the dropping of the clear gravy begins, 
it is a sure sign tliat the joint is nearly done. 
Then take oft' the paper, baste well, and dredge it 
with flour, which brings on that beautiful brown- 
ness which makes roasted meats look so inviting. 

With regard to the time necessary for roasting 
various meats, it will vary- according to the differ- 
ent sorts, the time it has been kept, and the tempe- 
Jt-ature of the weather. In summer, 20 minutes may 
be reckoned equal to half an hour in winter. A 
good skreen, to keep off" the chilling currents of air, 
IS essentially useful. The old housewife's rule is 
to allow raiher mere than a quarter of an hour to 
each pound, and in most instances it proves prac- 
tically correct. 

In roasting mutton or lamb, the loin, the chine, 
and the saddle, must have the skin raised, and 
skewered on; and, when nearly done, take off this 
skin, and baste and flour to froth it up. 

Veal requires roasting brown, and if a fillet or 
loin, be sure to i>aper llie fat, that as little of it 
may be lost as possible. When nearly done, baste 
it with butter and dredge witli flour. 

Pork should be well done. When roasting a loin, 
cut the skin across with a sliarp knife, otherwise 
the crackling is very awkward to manage. Stuft* 
Uta kuu^kle part with sage and onion, and skoM'a' 



it up. Put a little drawn gravy in the dish^ and 
serve it up with apple sauce in a turene. A spare- 
' rib shouhl he basted with a little Ijntter, a little 
dust of flour, and some sage and onions shred 
smtill. Apple sauce is the only one which suits this 
dish. 

Wild fowls require a clear brisk fire, and should 
be roasted till they are of a light brown, but not 
too much; yet it is a common fault to roast them 
till the gravy runs out, thereby losing their fine 
flavoiu". 

Tame fowls require more roasting, as the heat is 
longer in penetrating: they should be often basted, 
in order to keep up a strong froth, and to improve 
their plumpness. 

Pigs and geese should be thoroughly roasted be- 
fore a good fire, and turned quickly. 

Hares and rabbits require time and care, espe- 
cially to have the ends sufliciently done, and to re- 
medy that raw discolouring at the neck, &c. which 
proves often so objectionable at table. 
To regulate time in cookery. 

JMutton. — A leg of 8 lbs. will require two hours 
and a half. A chine or saddle of 10 or 11 lbs. two 
hours and a half. A shoulder of 7 lbs. one hour 
and a half. A loin of 7 lbs. one liour and three; 
quarters. A ueck and breast, about the same time 
as a loin. 

JJeef. — The surloin of 15 lbs. from three hours 
and three-qtfarters to four hours. Ribs of beef 
I from 15 to 20 lbs. will take three hours to three 
hours and a half. 

Veal. — A fillet from 12 to 16 lbs. will take from 
four to five hours, at a good fire. A loin, upon the 
average, will take three hours. A shoulder, from 
three hours to three hours and a half. A neck, two 
hours. A breast, from an hour and a half to two 
hours. 

Lamb. — Hind quarter of 8 lbs. will take from an 
hour and three-quarters to two hours. Fore-quar- 
ter of 10 lbs. about two hours. Leg of 5 lbs. from 
an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Shoul- 
der, or breast, with a quick fire, an hour. 

Pork. — A leg of 8 lbs. will require about three 
hours. Griskin, an hour and a lialf. A spare-rib 
of 8 or 9 lbs. will take from two hours and a half 
to three iinurs, to roast it thoroughly. A bald 
spare-rib of 8 lbs. an hour and a quarter. A loin of 
5 lbs. if very fat, from two hours to two hours and 
a half. A sucking pig, of three weeks old, about 
an hour and a half. 

Poultry. — A veiy large turkey will require about 
three hours; one of 10 lbs. two hours; a small one 
an hour and a half. 

A full-grown fowl, an hour and a quarter; a mo- 
derate sized one, an hour. 

A pullet, from half an hour to 40 minutes. 

A goose, full grown, frora^au hour and .a half to 
two liours. 

A green goose, 40 minytes. 

A duck, full size, from 30 to 50 minutes. 

Veiiison. — A buck liaunch which weighs from^ 
to 25 lbs. will take about four hours and a lialf 
roasting: one from 12 to 18 lbs. will take three 
hours and a quarter. 

To broil. 

This culinary branch is very confined, but excel- 
lent as respects chops or steaks; to cook which in 
perfection, the fire should be clear and brisk, and 
the grid-iron set on it slanting, to prevent the fat 
dropping in it. In addition, quick and frecjuent 
turning will ensure good flavour in the taste of the 
article cooked. 

To fry meats, &c. 

Be always careful to keep the fiying-pan clean, 
and see tliat it is properly tinned. When frying 
any s<Mt of tisii, first dry Ihcm in a clolli, and then 



COOKERY. 



165 



flour'tliem. Put into the pan plenty of dripping, 
or hog's lanl, and let it be boiling hot before put- 
ting in tlie fisli. Butter is not so good for the pur- 
pose, as it is apt to burn and blacken, and make 
them soft. When they are fried, put them in a 
dish, or hair sieve, to drain, before tliey are sent 
to table. Olive oil is the best article for frying, 
but it is very expensive, and bad oil spoils every 
thing that is dressed with it. Steaks and chops 
should be put in when the linuor is hot, and done 
quickly, of a light brown and turned often. Sau- 
sages should be done gradually, which will prevent 
their bursting. 

To make a savoury dish of veal. 
Cut some large scollops from a leg of veal, 
spre.id them on a dresser, dip them in rich egg bat- 
ter; season them with cloves, mace, nutmeg, and 
pepper beaten fine; make force-meat with some of 
the veal, some beef suet, oysters chopped, sweet 
herbs shred fine; strew all these over the coUops, 
roll and tie tliem up, put them on skewers and 
roast tiiem. To the rest of the force-meat, add 
two raw eggs, roll them in balls and fry them. Put 
them into tlie dish with the meat when roasted: 
and make the sauce with strong broth, au anchovy 
or a shalot, a little white wine and some spice. Let 
it stew, and thicken it with a piece of butter rolled' 
in flour. Pour the sauce into the dish, lay the 
meat in witli the force-meat balls, and garnish with 
lemon. 

Lamh''s kidneys, an vin. 
Cut your kidneys lengthways, but not through, 
put four or five on a skewer, lay them on a grid- 
iron, over clear, lively coals, pouring the red gravy 
into a bowl each lime they are turned; five minutes 
on the grid-iron will do. Take them up, cut tiiem 
in pieces, put them into a pan with the gravy you 
have saved, a large lump of butter, with pepper, 
salt, a pincii of flour, glass of Madeira, (champagne 
is better) fry the whole for two minutes, and serve 
very hot. 

To dress a fowl -with thefavriir of game. 
Cut the meat of a long-kept rabbit in thin slices; 
lay them on a dish, and season with pepper and 
salt, chopped parsley, chibol, shallots, and a little 
fine oil; split a fowl at the back, bone it all to the 
legs and wings, stuff it with this, then sew it up, 
and give it its natural form; brace it with slices of 
veal and ham, covered over with slices of bacon; 
soak it about a quarter of an hour, then add a glass 
of white wine, a litile broth, a fuggot, pepper and 
salt; when done, sift and skim tVie sauce, add a lit- 
tle cullis, and serve up the fowl. 

To make artificial egffs and bacon. 
Make clear blancmange in a white dish, cut it 
into rounds with the top of a tea-cup, and lay them 
on the dish on whicli it is to be served; make yel- 
low Dutch flummery, run it into a small tea-cup, 
in the form of the yolk of an egg, and place one on 
each round of the blancmange. Cut six straight 
pieces of blancmange, on which lay three streaks 
of preserved damsons, and serve all on tlie same 
dish. 

Breast of veal, glacee. 
Cut yoiu" breast as square as possible; bone it, 
and draw the cut pieces together with a thread; put 
it into a pan witli a ladle of veal bouillon, cover it 
with slices of salt ])ork and a buttered paper, pre- 
viously adding two carrots in bits, four onions in 
slices, two bay leaves, two cloves, pepper and salt; 
put some coals on the lid as well as below; when 
two-thirds done take out the vegetables, reduce 
>our gravy to jelly, turn your meat, and set on the 
cover till done; it takes in all two hours and a half 
(jver a very gentle fire. 

Shoxdder en galantine. 
Bo!)o a fat, fleshy shoulder of veal, cut off the \\ 



ragged pieces to make your stuffing, viz. one pound 
of veal to one pound of salt pork minced extremely 
fine, well seasoned with salt, pepper, spices, and 
mixed with three eggs, spread a layer of this stuf- 
fing well minced over the whole shoulder to the 
depth of an inch, over this, mushrooms, slips of 
bacon, slices of tongue, and carrots in threads, co- 
ver this with stuffing as before, then another layer 
of mushrooms, bacon, tongue, &c. when all j'our 
stuffing is used, roll \\\t your shoulder lengthways, 
tie it with a thread, cover it with slips of larding 
and tie it up in a clean white cloth; put into a pot 
the bones of the shoulder, two calves' feet, slips of 
bacon, six c.irrots, ten onions, one stuck with four 
cloves, four bay leaves, thyme, and a large faggot 
of parsley and shallots, moisten the wliole with 
bouillon; put iu your meat in the cloth and boil 
steadily for three hours. Try if it is done with the 
larding needle; if so, take it up, jn-ess all the liquor 
from it, and set it by to grow cold; pass your jelly 
through a napkin, put two eggs in a pan, wliip them 
well and pour the strained liquor on them, raixifig 
both together, add peppercorns, a little of the four 
spices, a bay leaf, thyme, parsley; let all boil gent- 
ly for half an hour, strain it througli a napkin, put 
your shoulder on its dish, pour the jelly over and 
serve cold. 

Shoulder of mutton. 

Bone the Larger half of your shoulder, lard the 
inside with well seasoned larding, tie it up in the 
shape of a balloon, lay some slips of bacon in your 
pan, on them your meat, with three Or four car- 
rots, five onions, three cloves, two bay leaves, 
thyme, and the bones that have been taken out, 
moisten with bouillon, set all on the tire and sim- 
mer for three hours and a half; garnish with small 
onions. 

Sheep^s tongues. 

Fifteen tongues^ are sufiicient for a dish; wash 
and clean them well, throw them into hot water 
for twenty minutes, wash them again in cold water, 
drain, dry and trim them neatly, lard them witli 
seasoned larding and the small needle, lay in your 
pan slips of bacon, four carrots in pieces, four 
onions, one stuck with two cloves, slips of veal, 
two bay leaves, thyme, and a faggot of shallots and 
parsley; put your tongues in, cover them with slips 
of larding, moisten the whole with bouillon, and 
let it simmer five hours. 

To make an excellent ragoxit of cold veal. 

Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal will furnisti 
this excellent ragout, with a veiy little expense or 
trouble. 

Cut the veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece 
of butter or clean dripping into a fryingpan; as soon 
as it is hot, flour and fry the veal of a light brown; 
take it out, and if you have no gra^y ready, put a 
pint of boiling water into the fryingpan, give it a 
boil up for a minute, and strain it into a basin 
while you make some thickening in the following 
manner: — Put about an ounce of butter into a stew- 
pan; as soon as it melts, mix with it as much flour 
as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few mi- 
nutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you made 
in the fryingpan; let them simmer together for ten 
minutes (till thoroughly iticorporatfed); season it 
with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wineglass of 
mushroom catsup, or wine; strain it through a 
tammis, to the meat; and stew very gently till the 
meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any ready 
boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and put it to warm 
with the meat. 

To make veal cake. 

Take the best end of a breast cf veal, bone and 
cut it in three pieces; take the yolks out of eiglit 
eggs boiled hard, and slice the whites, the yolks to 
be cut through the middle, two anchovies, a good ' 



1G6 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



deal of parsley chopped fine, and some lean ham 
cut in thin slices; all these to be well seasoned se- 
parately with Cayenne, black pepper, salt, and a 
little nutmeg; liave ready a mug, the size of the 
intended cake, with a little butter rubbed on it, put 
a layer of vpal on the bottom, then a layer of egg 
and parsley, and ham to fancy; repeat it till all is 
in, lay the bones on the top, and let it be baked 
tliree or four hours; then take off tlie bones, and 
press down the cake till quite cold. The mug must 
be dipped into warm water, and the cake turned 
out with great care, that the jelly may not be bro- 
ken whicii hangs round it. 

Portuguese method of dressing a loin of pork. 

Steep it during an entire week in red wine, (cla- 
ret in j)reference) with a strong infusion of garlic 
and a little spice; then sprinkle it with fine herbs, 
envelope it in bay leaves, and bake it along with 
Seville oranges piqures de girofle. 
To make dry devils. 

These are usually composed of the broiled legs 
and gizzards of poultry, fish bones, or biscuits, 
nance piquanie. Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cay- 
enne pepper, and currie powder, with double the 
quantity of powder of truffles: dissect a brace of 
■woodcocks rather under roasted, split the heads, 
subdivide the wings, &c. &c. and powder the 
•whole gently over with the mixture: crush the trail 
and brains along with the yolk of a hard boiled 
egg, a small portion of pounded mace, tlie grated 
peel of half a lemon, and half a spoonful of soy, 
until the ingredients be brought to the consistence 
of a fine paste; then add a table-spoonful of catsup, 
a full wine glass of Madeira, and the juice of two 
Seville oranges; throw the sauce, along with the 
birds, into a stew-dish, to be heated with spirit of 
Avine — cover close up — light the lamp — and keep 
gently simmering, and occasionally stirring, until 
tlie fiesh has imbibed the greater part of the liquid. 
When it is completely saturated, pour in a small 
quantity of salad oil, stir all once more well to- 
gether, put out the light, and serve it round in- 
stantly. 

To make an olio. 

Boil in a broth pot, a fowl, a partridge, a small 
leg of mutton, five or six pounds of large slices of 
beef, and a knuckle of veal; soak all these without 
broth for some time, turn the meat to give it a 
good colour, and add boiling water: when it has 
boiled about an hour, add all sorts of best broth 
herbs; this broth, when good, is of a fine brown 
colour. 

To pot leg of beef. 

Boil a leg of beef till the meat will come off the 
bone easily; tlien mix it with a cow heel, previous- 
ly cut into thin pieces, and season tlie whole witli 
salt and spice: add a little of tlie liquor in whicli 
the leg of beef was boiled, put it into a cheese-vat, 
or cullender, or some other vessel that will let the 
liquor run off; place a very heavy weight over it, 
and it will be ready for use in a day or two. It 
may be kept in souse made of bran boiled in wa- 
ter, with the addition of a little vinegar. 
To pot beef. 

Cut it small, add to it some melted butter, 2 an- 
chovies boned and washed, and a little of the best 
pepper, beat fine. Put them into a marble mortar, 
and beat them well together till the meat is yel- 
low; put it into pots and cover with clarified butter. 
To pot eels. 

Cut them in pieces about four inches long, sea- 
son with a little beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, 
and a little sal'prunella beaten fine. Lay them in 
a pan and pour as much clarified butter over as 
•will cover it. Bake half an hour in a quick oven, 
till properly done. Then lay them on a coarse 
oloth to drain; when quite cold season them again 



the same way. Then take off the butter they •were 
baked in clear from the gravy of the fish, and sei 
them in a dish before the fire. 

Wiien melted, pour the butter over them and 
put by for use. 

Potted lobster or crab. 

This must be made with fine hen lobsters when 
full of spawn, boil them thoroughly, when cold, 
pick out all the solid meat, and pound it in a mor- 
tar, it is usual to add by degrees (a very little) fine- 
ly pounded mace, black or Cayeiuie pepper, salt, 
and, while pounding, a little butter. When the 
whole is well mixed, and beat to the consistence 
of paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot, 
pour clarified butter over it, and cover it with wet- 
ted bladder. 

To make Bologna sausages. 

Take a pound of beef suet, a pound of pork, a 
pound of bacon fat and lean, and a pound of beef 
and veal. Cut them very small. Take a handful 
of sage leaves chopped fine, with a few sweet herbs. 
Season pretty high with pejiper and salt, take a 
large well-cleaned gut and fill it. Set on a sauce- 
pan of water, and when it boils, put it in, first 
pricking it to prevent its bursting. Boil it 1 hour. 
To make Oxford sausages. 

Take 1 lb. ot young pork, fat and lean, without 
skin or gristle, 1 lb. of beef suet, chopped fine to- 
gether; put in ^ lb. of grated bread, half the peel 
of a lemon shred, a nutmeg grated, 6 sage leaves 
chopped fine, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and 2 of 
salt, some thyme, savory, and marjoram, shred 
fine. Mix well together and put it. close down ia 
a pan till used. Roll them out the size of common 
sausages, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine 
brown, or broil them over a clear fire, and send 
them to table hot. 

Y'o make Epping sausages. 

Take 6 pounds of young pork, quite free from 
skin, gristle, or fat; cut it small, and beat it fine 
in a mortar. Cliop 6 pounds of beef suet very fine, 
shred a handful of sage leaves fine, spread the meat 
on a clean dresser, and shake the sage over it. 
Shred the rind of a lemon very fine, and throw it 
with sweet herbs on the meat. Grate two nutmegs, 
to which put a spoonful of pepper, and a large 
spoonful of salt. Throw the suet over, and niix 
all well togetlier. Put it down close in the pot, 
and when used, roll it up with as much egg aa 
will make it smootli. 

To make scvaloys. ' 

Take 3 pounds of young pork free from bone 
and skin; salt it with an ounce of salt-petre, and a 
pound of common salt for two days; chop it fine; 
put in 3 tea-spoonsful of pepper; a dozen sage 
leaves chopped fine, and a pound of grated bread; 
mix it well, fill the guts, and bake them half an 
hour in a slack oven: they are good either hot or 
cold. 

To make beef a la mode. 

Take 11 pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod 
of beef, cut it into pieces of 3 or 4 ounces each; 
put 2 or 3 large onions, and 2 ounces of beef drip- 
ping into a large deep stew pan; as soon as it is 
quite hot, flour the meat, and put it into the stew 
pan; fill it sufficiently to cover the contents with 
water, and stir it continually with a wooden spoon; 
when it has been on a quarter of an hour, dredge 
it with flour, and keep doing so till it has been stir- 
red as much as will thicken it; then cover it with 
boiling water. Skim it when it boils, and put in 1 
draclim of black ground pepper, 2 of allspice, and 
4 bay leaves; set the pan by the side of the fire to 
stew slowly about four hours. This is at once a 
savoury and economical dish. 
Bouilli. 

Take the thin ends of prime ribs: bubble Ihera 



COOKERY. 



167 



slowly ■with a little salt, pepper, S bay leaves, one 
onion stuck with cloves, and a faggot of sweet 
herbs. Remove all the scum and bubble till a 
skewer will penetrate without force. 
JJoHiIli — en matelotie. 

Peel a handful of small onions, fry them in but- 
ter till they are of a light brown, throw in a hand- 
ful of flour, shake the pan well, add a glass of red 
wine, a pint of (bouillon) mace, salt, pepper, 
thyme, and two bay leaves; bubble the whole gent- 
ly till the onions are tender, and pour it over slices 
of cold bouilli. — Set all in a sauce pan well cover- 
ed on hot ashes, to repose for 15 minutes. Take 
care it does not boil. 

Beeps tong-ue — mix champignons. 

Wash your tongue well and boil for half an 
hour; season some larding with salt, pepper, all 
kinds of spice, sliallots and chopped parsley; lard 
your tongue across; put it in a stew pan with a few 
slices of bacon and beef, carrots, onions, thyme, 3 
bay leaves, 3 cloves; cover with bouillon, and stew 
very gently for 4 hours; when done skin your 
tongue and cut it up lengthways in the middle and 
under part, but not through, so that you can bend 
it up and lay it on your dish in the shape of a 
heart. Have ready a quantity of button mush- 
rooms, fried in butter, with a sprinkle of lemon 
juice moistened with bouillon, and bubbled to a 
proper consistence. Pour it over your tongue and 
serve hot. 

Beef— en daube. 

Prepare a round or rump as for beef a la mode, 
well larded with the largest needle; put it into 
your pot with a spoonful of lard. Set the pot on 
hot coals, dust it with flour, turn your beef till it 
is well browned on both sides; have ready a kettle 
of boiling water, cover your meat, add in bits six 
large onions, two bunches of 'carrots, and an egg 

Slant in slices. Put on your lid and bubble slowly 
ut steadily for four hom's(for 16 pounds of beef, 
longer if heavier) or till the skewer will pass easi- 
ly into it. About half an hour before serving, 
throw in a pint of small mushrooms, season with 
pepper and salt, a dozen bay leaves, and all kinds 
of spice. Set your beef in a deep dish, and cover 
"with the sauce. 

Fish — en matelotte. 
Almost every kind offish answers for this dish. 
Scale, clean and cut them in pieces; put them into 
a pan with a handful of small onions previously 
fried -whole, in bultei', two bay leaves, a fagot of 
shallots and parsley, small muslirooms, thyme, bay 
leaves, salt and pepper; pour over the whole as 
much red wine as will cover it; set 3'our pan on a 
quick fire; when the wine is one half gone, mix a 
spoonful of flour with a large lump of butter, roll 
it in little balls, and put them one by one into your 
sauce, stirring it the whole time. Arrange your 
fish handsomely on a deep dish, pour over the 
sauce, and garnish with slices of lemon. 
Flounders — a la creme. 
Scale, clean and wrap your fish in a cloth, boil 
it gently in plenty of water well salted; when done 
drain it carefully without breaking, lay it on your 
dish and mask it with cr6am, or white onion 
sauce. 

Tera.pins. 
Plange them into boiling water till they are 
dead, take them out, pull oft' the outer skin and toe 
nails, wash them in warm water, and boil them 
with a teaspoonful of salt to each middling sized 
terapin, till you can pinch the flesh from off" the 
bone of the leg; turn them out of the shell into a 
dish, remove the sand-bag and gall, add the yolks 
of two eggs, cut up your meat, season pretty high 
with equal parts of black and cayenne pepper and 
salt. Put all into your sauce pan, with the liquor 



they have given out in cutting up, but not a drop of 
water; add a quarter of a pound of butter, with a gill 
of madeira, to every two middle sized terrapins; 
simmer gently till tender, closely covered, thicken 
with flour, and serve hot. 

Oysters to stew. 

Put your oysters with all their liquor into a 
sauce pan; no water; to every dozen add a lump of 
butter size of a walnut, salt, black pepper, a blade 
of mace, two bay leaves; bubble for five minutes, 
add a little cream, shake all well together, and 
turn them out, grating a little nutmeg on each oys- 
ter as it lies in the sauce. 

Oysters roasted very fine. 

Roast your oysters over a quick fire till they are 
done dry, but not scorched; turn them out on the 
plate of a blazer, without any of their liquor; add a 
large lump of butter. Set the plate over the lamp 
when the butter is melted, add a gill of madeira, a 
little salt and cayenne. 

Chicken — an soliel. 

Raise the thighs of as many large young fowls as 
you want, bone them, and have a large lump of 
butter melted in a frying pan, lay in your thighs 
with a little salt, pepper, a bay leaf, one onion, 
two cloves, and a bundle of shallots and parsley, 
put all over a quick fire till the meat is browned, 
then add a table-spoonful of flour, a ladle of hot 
bouillon, and a handful of buttered mushrooms; 
bubble for three quarters of an hour, carefully re- 
moving all the fat; take out your meat, throw away 
your onion, bay leaf, herbs, &4C. beat and put in 
three yolks of eggs, pour the sauce over your fowl; 
when cold dip them well in the sauce, then in 
crumbs of bread, then in yolks of eggs beat and 
seasoned, more crumbs; fry theA of a light brown 
in their sauce, drain, pile them in a circle, and 
fill the hollow with fried parsley. 
Duck — olive sauce. 

Truss your duck so as to be as round as possible, 
tie it up with thread and rub it with a lemon; have 
ready some slices of bacon, lay your duck on them, 
slices of bacon over the duck again; set your lid 
on, with hot embers on top, let all simmer 1 hour; 
have ready a pint of olives, cut cork screw fashion, 
so that when detached from the stem they will re- 
sume their original shape. Throw them into a pan 
with a cup ot broth, a little essence of meats, a 
lump of veal jelly, and a little black pepper; boil 
for ten minutes over a quick fire, when reduced one 
half, pour it over your duck, garnish with lai-ge 
(pared) olives and sprigs of blanched celery. 
Wildfo-ail — en salmis. 

Cut up a cold roast duck (wild), goose, brant or 
whatever it may be. Put into a bowl or soup 
plate, (to every bird) a dessert spoonful of well 
made mustard, a sprinkle of cayenne and black 
pepper, with about a gill of red wine; mix them 
well together; set your pan on the fire with a lump 
of butter, when it melts add gradually the wine,' 
&c. let it bubble a minute, put in your duck, and 
bubble it for a few minutes. If your duck has 
proved tough when first cooked, use a sauce pan, 
and let it bubble till tender, taking cai-e there is 
enough gravy to keep it from burning. Serve on 
dry toast, very hot. 

Pigeons — en compote. 

Pick, draw and truss four squabs, legs inside, 
tie them up with a thread, put a lump of butter in- 
to a pan, when melted a little flour, mix and make 
a browning; lay in some slices of salt pork, turn, 
thqn for five minutes; put in your pigeons with a 
cup of bouillon, shake the pan frequently till it 
boils, add a handful of mushrooms and a faggot of 
shallots and parsley; skim it well; have ready some 
small white onions fried in butter; when your 
birds are two-thirds done, add them to your sauce. 



1G8 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



skim it again, put your birds in a deep disli, nnd 
pour over yoiu* sauce and garnish wilh small boiled 
onions. 

Partridge — anix chmix. 

Plieasanfs (so called in Pennsylvania) or par- 
tridges may be used indifferently. Pick, singe, 
draw and truss your birds neatly; lard them vviili 
seasoned larding if j'ou have a needle, truss their 
feet inside, put llieni into a stew-pan with some 
slices of bacon, a large sausage, one pound of lat 
s;dt pork. Cover your bifSs with slips of bacon, 
add four onions, two cloves, six bay leaves; put in 
a blanched cabbage tied up, cover the whole with 
tiiin sli[)S of bacon, add a ladle of broth and simmer 
two hours: take up your birds, drain and lay them 
on a hot plate, drain your cabbage, S[)read it hand- 
somely on a dish; on the cabbage arrange your 
hirds, round it pieces of the ham and sausage Al- 
ternately, have the gravy reduced to a proper lliick- 
iiess by a quick fire, pour over your birds and 
serve hot. 

N. B. Fowls, pheasants, S:c. are very good done 
in the above way. 

Pigeon pie. 

Truss half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stew- 
ing, season them with pei)per and sidt, and fill tlicni 
w ith veal stuffing or some parsley eliopped very 
fine, and a little pepper, salt, and three ounces of 
butter mixed together: lay at the bottonv of tlie 
dish a 'rump steak of about a pound weight, cut 
into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned and beat 
out with a chopper; on it lay llie pigeons, the yolks 
of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of broth or 
■water; wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over 
(V with puff-paste, jvash it over with yolk of egg, and 
■ ornament it with leaves of paste, a:id the feet of 
tiie pigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a mode- 
rate heated oven: before it is sent to table make an 
aperture iii the top, and pour in some good gravy 
quite hot. 

Gib let pie. 

Clean wall, and half stew two or three sets of 
goose giblets; cut the leg in two, the wing and neck 
into tiu'ee, and tlie gizzard into fijur pieces; pre- 
serve the lirjuor, and set the giblets by till cold, 
otnec'vise the heat of the giblets will spoil the 
paste you cover the pie with: — then season the 
^vhole with black pepper and salt, and put them 
into a deep dish; cover it with jjaste, rub it over 
wilh yolk of egg, ornament and bake it an hour 
and a lialf in a moderate oven; in the meantime 
take tile liquor the giblets were stewed in, skim 
it free from fat, put it over a fire in a clean stew- 
pan, thicken it a little with flour and batter, or 
ilour and water, season it witii ])epper and salt, and 
the juice of half a lemon, add a few drojis of brown- 
ing, strain it through a fine sieve, and when you 
take the pie from the oven, pour some of tliis into 
it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom of 
the dish a moderately thick rump steak: — if you 
liave any cold game or poultry, cut it in pieces, 
and add it to the above. 

. fiump steak Jjie. 

Cut three pounds ot rump steak (that has been 
kept till tender) into pieces iialf as big as your 
liand, trim off all the skin, sinews, and every part 
which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, 
an<i beat them with a chopper. Chop very fine 
half a dozen eshallots, and mix them with half an 
ounce of pepper and salt mixed, strew some of tlie 
mixture at the bottom of tlie dish, then a layer of 
steak, then some more of tlie mixture, and so on 
till tlie dish is full; add half a gill of musliroom 
catsup, and tlie same quantity of gravv, or red 
■wine, cover it as iu the preceding receipt, and 
bake ;t two hours. 



N. B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and 
laid alternately with the steaks — their liquor,reduc- 
ed and substituted instead of the catsup and wine, 
will be a variety, 

Chicheii pie. 

Parboil and then cut up neatly two young chick- 
ens; dry them, set them over a slow fire for a few 
minutes, have ready some veal stuffing or force- 
meat, lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in 
the chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of 
dressed ham; cover it with paste, bake it from an 
hour and a half to two hours; when sent to table 
add some good gravy, well seasoned and not too 
thick. 

Duck pie is made in like manner, only substi- 
tuting duck stuffing instead of the veal. 

N. B. The above may be put into a raised French 
crust, and baked; when done take oft" tlie top, and 
put a ragout of sweetbread to the chicken. 
Rabbit pie. 

Made in the same way, but make a forcemeat to 
cover the bottom of the dish, by pounding a quar- 
ter pound of boiled bacon with the livers of the 
ralibits; some pepj^er and salt, some pounded mace, 
some chopped parsley, and a shallot, thoroughly 
beaten together; and you may lay some iliiu slices 
of ready dressed liam or bacon on tlie top of your 
rabbits. 

Puised French pie. 

Make about two pounds of fiour into a paste, as 
directed, knead it v.'ell, and into the shape of a 
ball, press your thumb into the centre, and work 
it by degrees into any shajie (oval or round is the 
most general,) till about five inches high; ])ut it on 
a sheet of paper, and fill it with coarse iiour or 
bran; roll out a covering for it about the same thick- 
ness as the sides; cement its sides with the yolk of 
egg; cut the edges (juite e'/en, and pinch it round 
wilh tlie finger and lliumb; yolk of egg it over with 
a {laste brush, and ornament it in anj' way as fancy 
may direct, with the same kind of paste. Bake it 
of a fine brown colour, in a slow oven, and when 
done, cut out the top, remove the flour or bran, 
brush it quite clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of 
chicken, rabbit, or any other entree most conve- 
nient. Send it to table with a napkin under. 
Rained ham pie. 

Soak four or five hours a small liam; -wash and 
scrape it well; cut oft" the knuckle, and boil it for 
half an hour; tiieu take it up and trim it very neat- 
ly; take off tlic rind and ])Ut it into an oval stew- 
jian, with a pint of Madeira or Sherry, and enough 
veal stock to cover it. Let it stew for t' ,'o hours, 
or till three parts done; take it out and set it in a 
cold place; then raise a crust as in tiie foregoing re- 
ceipt, large enough to receive it; put iu the ham, 
and round it the veal forcemeat; cover and orna- 
ment; it will take about one hour and a half to bake 
in a slow oven: when done take off the cover; glaze 
tlie top, aiul pour round the following sauce, viz. 
Take the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim it 
free from fat; thicken with a little flour and butter 
mixed together, a few drops of browning, and some 
cayenne (lepper. 

P. S. The above is, I think, a grod way of dress- 
ing a small ham, and has a good eft'ect cold for a 
supper. 

Raised pork pie. 

IVLike a raised crust, of a good size, with paste 
about four inches high; take the rind and chine 
bone from a loin of pork, cut it into chops, beat 
them w ith a chopper, season them wilh pepper and 
salt, and powdered sage, and fill your pie; put on 
the top and close it, and pinch it round the edge, 
rub it over with yolkof egg, and bake it two hours 
ivilli a paper over to prevent the crust from burtt- 



COOI'ffiRY. 



169 



Jng. When done, pour in some good gt'avy, ivith 
a little ready mixed mustard and a tea-spoontul of 
catsup. 

Eel pie. 

Take eels about half a pound each, — skin, wash, 
and trim off the fin with a pair of scissors, — cut 
tliem into pieces three inches long, season them 
■with pepper and salt, and fill your dish, leaving 
out the heads and tails. Add a gill of veal broth, 
cover it with paste, rub it over with a paste brush 
dipped in yolk of egg, ornament it with some of 
the same ])aste, bake it an hour, and when done, 
make a hole in the centre, and pour in the follow- 
ing sauce through a funnel: The trimmings boiled 
in half a pint of veal slock, seasoned with pepper 
and salt, a table-spoonful of lemon juice, and thick- 
ened with flour and water, sti-aiued tlu-ough a tine 
sieve; add it boiling hot. 

liaised lamb pie. 

Bone a loin of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim tliem 
veiy nicely, and laj' them in the bottom of a stew 
or fn'ing pan, witli an ounce of butter, a tea-spoon- 
ful of lemon juice, and some pepper and salt; put 
tliem over a fire, and turn them and put them to 
cool; then raise four or five small pies with paste, 
about the size of a tea-cup, put some veal force- 
meat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it; roll out 
the top an eighth of an inch thick, close and pinch 
the edges, bake tliem half an hour, and when done, 
take off the top, and pour iu some good brown 
sauce. 

Beefsteak pudding. 

Get rump steaks, not too thick, beat them with 
a chopper, cut them into pieces about half the size 
of your hand, and trim off all the skin, sinews, 
&c.; have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, 
.'ikewise some potatoes peeled and cut into slices, 
u quarter of an inch thick, rub the inside of a ba- 
sin or an oval plain mould witli butter, sheet it 
(with paste as directed for boiled puddings; season 
the steaks with^pepper, salt, and a little grated 
nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, tlien another of 
potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasionally throw- 
ing in part of die chopped onion; — add to it half a 
gill of mushroom catsup, a table-spoonful of lemon 
pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth; roll 
out a top, and close it well to prevent the water 
getting in; rinse a clean cloth in hot water, sprin- 
kle a little flour over it, and tie up the pudding, 
have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it iu, 
and boil it two hours and a half, take it up, remove 
the cloth, turn it downwards in a deep dish, and 
when wanted take away the basin or mould. 
Vol ail vent. 

Roll off tart paste till about the eighth of an inch 
thick; then with a tin cutter made for that purpose, 
{about the size of the bottom of the dish you in- 
tend sending to table,) cut out the shape, and lay 
it on ft baking plate with paper, rub it over with 
yolk of egg; roll out good puff paste an inch thick, 
stamp it with the same cutter, and lay it on the 
tart paste, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and 
press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; 
—rub the top with j'olk of egg, and bake it in a 
quick oven about twenty minutes, of a light brown 
colour: when done take out the paste inside the 
centre mark, preserving thi top, put it on a dish 
in a warm place, and when wanted, fill it with a 
wliite fricassee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweet- 
bread, or any other entree you wish. 
To make a French steiv of green peas and bacon. 

Cut about J of lb. of fresh bacon into thin slices; 
soak it on tlie fire in a stew-pan until it is almost 
done; then put about a quart of peas to it, a good 
bit of butter, a faggot of parsley, and 2 spoonsful 
of catsu]): simmer on a slow fire and reduce tlie 
W 



sauce: take out the faggot and serve the rest to» 
gether. 

To make mock brawn. 

Take the head and belly piece of a young pork- 
er, well salt-petred; split the head and boil it; take 
out the bones and cut it to pieces; then take fouF 
ox feet boiled tender, and cut them in thin pieces; 
lay them in the belly piece with the head cut small; 
roll it up tight with sheet tin, and boil it four op 
five liours. Wiien it comes out set it up on one 
end, put a trencher on it within tlie tin, press it 
down with a large weight, and let it stand all night. 
The next morning take it out of the tin and bind 
it witli a fillet, put it into cold salt and water, and 
it will be fit for use; it will keep a long time, it" 
fresh salt and water are put into it every foui- days. 
To make Dr Kitchener's pudding. 

Beat up the yolks and whites of three eggs, strain 
them through a sieve, and gradually add to them 
about a quarter of a pint of milk. Stir tliese well 
togetlier; mix in a mortar 2 oz. of moist sugar 
and as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a six- 
pence; stir these into the eggs and milk. — Then 
])Ut in 4 oz. of flour, and beat it into a smooth bat- 
ter; stir in, gradually, 8 oz. of very fine chopped 
suet, and 3 oz. of bread crumbs — mix all thorough- 
ly together, at least half an hour before putting the 
pudding into the pot. Put it into an earthenware 
mould that is well buttered, and tie a pudding cloth 
over it. 

JVottingham pudding. 

Peel six good apples; take out the cores with the 
point of a small knife, but be sure to leave the ap- 
ples whole; fill up where the core was taken from 
with sugar, place them in a pie dish, and pour over 
them a nice light batter, prepared as for batter pud- 
ding, and bake them an hour in a moderate oven. 
To make a fasting day's dish. 

Boil eggs very hai'd, and cut a little from the 
thick ends. Fry them in a pan, and take care to 
keep them continually in motion; then place them 
in the dish, pour over them some good fish or herb 
gravy, and garnish with lemon. 

To dress a military omelette. 

Slake a ragout of slewed sorrel, with a little 
parmesan cheese, rasped and mixed with bread 
crumbs; make two omelettes, put this ragout be- 
tween, and garnish llie dish round with fried bread, 
standingup like a paste border; which may be done 
by dipping the edge of each bit in whites of eggs 
to make them stick; pour a little melted butter 
over it, and strew bread crumbs and parmesan 
cheese as before; give colour in the oven, or with a 
hot shovel. 

To make an onion omelette. 

Fry two or three sliced onions in butter till they 
are quite done, add two yolks of eggs, and a little 
chopped parsley; make two small omelettes with- 
out saL, put the onions and a few fillets of ancho- 
vies upon them, and I'oU them lengthways; have 
some pieces of bread cut like toast and fried in but- 
ter; cut the omelettes according to the size of the 
bread, and place them thereon; pour a little melt- 
ed butter over, and strew them with bread crumbs 
and rasped parmesan cheese: give tliem a good co- 
lour in the oven, or with a salamander; serve what 
sauce you please. 

French metliod. — Tlie eggs should be beaten 
with a spoon, white and yolk together; and a small 
quantity of parsley and young onions, minced, 
should be stirred among the butter, before it is 
poured into the fiying-'ian. 

Another omelette. — The eggs being beaten, are 
to be seasoned with salt and pepper, and then fried 
in butter made boiling hot; when done, the gravy 
is to be poured on, and llie whole stewed with 



170 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



chives and parslej' shred small; \v\\en one side is 
fried enougli, it is to be turned on the other. 
"To make Yorkshire padding. 
This nice disli is usually baked under meat, and 
is thus made. Beat four lar^e spoonsful of ilour, 
eggs, and a little salt for fifteen minutes. Then 
put to them tiiree pints of milk, and mix tliem 
well togellier. Then butter a dripping-pan, and 
set it under beef, mutton, or veal, while roasting. 
"When it is brown, cut it into square pieces, aiul 
turn it over; and when the under side is browned 
also, send it to the table on a tlisb. 
Dutch pudding. 
Cut a round piece out of the bottom of a Dutch 
loaf, and put that and the piece that was cut out 
into a quart of cold new milk, in the evening, and 
let it stand all night. If the milk is all soaked up 
by the morning, add some more. Put the piece 
in the bottom again, tie the loaf up in a clolli, and 
boil it an hour. Eat it with sugar, or with melted 
butter, white wine, and sugar sauce. 

To make a dish of frumenty. 
Boil an approved quantity of wheat; when soft, 
pour off the water, and keep it for use as it is want- 
ed. The method of using it is, to put milk to 
make it of an agreeable thickness; then warming 
it, adding some sugar and nutmeg. 

To make a Windsor pudding. 
Shred half a pound of suet very fine, grate into 
it half a pound ofP'rench roll, a little nutmeg, and 
tlie rind of a lemon. Add to these, half a pound 
of chopped apple, half a pound of currants, clean 
washed and dried, half a pound of jar raisins, ston- 
ed and chopped, a glass of rich sweet wine, and 
five eggs beaten with a little salt. Mix all tlio- 
rougldy together, and boil it in a basin or mould, 
for three hours. Sift fine sugar over it when sent 
to table, and pour white wine sauce into the dish. 
A Cheshire pudding. 
Make a crust as fur a fruit pudding, roll it out 
to fourteen or fifteen inches in length, and eight or 
lime in width; spread with raspberry jam or any 
other preserve of a similar kind, and roll it up in 
the manner of a collared eel. Wrap a cloth round 
it two or three times, and tie it tiglit at each end. 
Two hours and a quarter will boil it. 
To make a plain pudding. 
^ "Weigh three quarters of a pound of any odd 
scraps of bread, whether crust or crumb, cut them 
small, and pour on them a pint and a half of boil- 
ing water, to soak them well. Let it stand till the 
water is cool, then press it out, and mash the bread 
smooth with the back of a spoon. Add to it, a tea- 
spoonful of beaten ginger, some moist sugar, and 
three quarters of a lb. of currants. Mix all well 
together, and lay it in a pan well buttered. P'latten 
it down with a spoon, and lay some pieces of but- 
ter on the top. Bake it in a moderate oven, and 
serve it hot. When cold, it will turn out of the 
pan, and eat like good plain cheese cakes. 
Transparent pudding. 
Beat up eight eggs, put them into a stew-pan 
witli half ;i pound of sugar, the same of butter, and 
some grated nutmeg, and set it on tiie fire, stirring 
it till it thickens, then pour it into a basin to cool. 
Set a rich paste round the edge of your dish, pour 
in your pudding, and bake it in a moderate oven. 
A delicious and elegant article. 

A JPatna rice pudding. 
Wash a quarter of a pound of wliole rice, dry it 
in a cloth and beat it to a powder. Set it upon 
the fire, with a pint and a half of new milk, till it 
thickens, but do not let it boil.- pour it out, and let 
it stand to cool. Add to it, some cinnamon, nut- 
meg, and mace, pounded, sugar to the taste, half 
a pound of suet shred very small, and eight eggs 
well beaten with some salt. Put to it, either half 



a pound of currants, elean waslied and dried by the 
fire, or some candied lemon, citron, or orange 
peel. Bake it half an hour with a puff crust un- 
der it. 

A baked potato pudding. 

Mix twelve ounces of potatoes boiled, skimmed, 
and mashed, 1 oz. of suet, (jnarter of a pint of milk, 
and 1 oz. of cheese grated tine; add as much boil- 
ing water as is necessary to produce a due consist- 
ence, and bake it in an earthen pan. 

7'o make raspberry diunplings. 

Make a pufl" paste, and roil it out. Spread rasp- 
berry jam, and make it into dumplings. Boil thera 
an hour; pour melted butter into a dish, and strew 
grated sugar over it. 

To make raspberry and cream tarts. 

Roll out thin puir' paste, lay it in a patty-pan; 
put in raspberries, and strew fine sugar over them. 
Put on a lid, and when baked, cut it open, and put 
in half a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs well 
beaten, and a little sugar. 

To make marroio pxidding. 

Grate a penny loaf into crumbs, pour on them a 
pint of boiling hot cream. Cut very thin a pound 
of beef marrow, beat four eggs well, and then put 
in a glass of brandy, with sugar and nutmeg to 
taste. Mix them all well together, and either boil 
or bake it, for three quarters of an hour will do it. 
Cut two ounces of citron very thin, and, when 
served up, stick them all over it. 

To make Oldbury pudding. 

Beat four eggs very well, have ready a pint ba- 
sin floured and buttered, pour in the eggs, and fill 
it up with new milk previously boiled, and with 
two laurel leaves, and when cold, beat them to- 
getlier; put a wliite paper over the basin, cover 
witli a cloth, and boil it twenty minutes. Send it 
up with wine and butter sauce. 

Qiunce pudding. 

Scald the quinces tender, pare them thin, scrape 
ofl' the pulp, mix with sugar very sweet, and add a 
little ginger and cinnamon. To a pint of cream 
put three or four yolks of eggs, and stir it into the 
quinces till they are of a good thickness. Butter 
the dish, pour it in and bake it. 
Tansy pudding. 

Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of Jor- 
dan almonds; put them into a stew-pan, add a gill 
of the syrup of roses, the crumb of a French roll, 
some grated nutmeg, half a glass of brandy, two 
table-spoonsful of tansy juice, 3 oz. of fresh butter, 
and some slices of citron. Pour over it a pint and 
a half of boiling cream or milk, sweeten, and when 
cold, mix ij:; add the juice of a lemon, and 8 eggs 
beaten. It may be either boiled or baked. 
Lemon pudding. 

Cut oiT the rind of 3 lemons, boil them tender, 
povuid them in a moi'tar, and mix them with a 
quarter of a pound of Naples biscuits, boiled up in 
a quart of milk or cream ; beat up 12 yolks and 6 
whites of eggs. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh 
butter, and put in half a pound of sugar, and a lit- 
tle orange flower water. Mix all well together, 
stir it over the fire till thick, and squeeze in the 
juice of half a lemon. Put puft" paste round the 
disli, then pour in the pudding: cut candied sweet- 
meats, and strew over, and bake it for three quar- 
ters of an hour. 

J\'lrs Goodfelloiu''s lemon pudding. 

Take of butter (the very best) and loaf sugar, 
eacii half a pound, beat them to a froth as for 
pound-cake, add five eggs, the juice of half of a 
large or the whole of a small lemon. Grate into it 
the outside yellow rind, but not an atom of the 
white — half a glass of Madeira, half a glass of bran- 
dy, a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water, pour it 
into ycur paste, and bake with a moderate oven. 



COOICERY 



171 



N. B. The above quantities make three common 
puddings. 

J\li's Goodfelloiv^s orange piidJinp; 
Proceed as above, using a pounded orange in 
place of the lemon. 

Cocoa-nut pudding. 
A quarter of a pound of grated cocoa-nut, the 
same quantity of pow uered loaf sugar, three ounces 
and a half of good butter, the whites of six eggs, 
and half a glass of wine and brandy mixed, a tea- 
spoonful of orange flower and rose-water — pour 
into your paste, and bake as above. 
Boston apple pudding. 
Peel one dozen and a half of good apples, take 
out the cores, cut them small, put into a stewpan 
that will just hold tliem, with a little water, a lit- 
tle cinnamon, two cloves, and the peel of a lemon, 
stew over a slow fire till quite soft, then sweeten 
with moist sugar, and pass it through a hair sieve, 
add to it the yolks of four eggs and one white, a 
quarter of a pound of good butter, half a nutmeg, 
the peel of a lemon grated, and the juice of one 
lemon; beat all well together, line the inside of a 
pie-dish with good puff paste, put in the pudding, 
and bake half an hour. 

Spring fridt pudding. 
Peel and wash well four dozen sticks of rhubarb, 
put into a stew-pan with the pudding, a lemon, a lit- 
tle cinnamon, and as much moist sugar as will make 
it quite sweet, set it over a fire, and reduce it to a 
marmalade, pass through a hair sieve, and proceed 
as directed for the Boston pudding, leaving out the 
lemon juice, as the rhubarb will be found suflicient- 
ly acid of itself. 

Plum Paulding. 
Suet chopped fine, six ounces; Malaga raisins 
stoned, six ounces; currants nicely washed and 
picked, eight ounces; bread crumbs, three ounces; 
flour, three ounces; eggs, three; sixth of a nutmeg; 
small blade of mace; same quantity of cinnamon 
pounded as fine as possible; half a teaspoonful of 
salt; half a pint of milk, or rather less; sugar, four 
ounces; to which may be added candied lemon, one 
ounce; citron, half an ounce. Beat the eggs and 
spice well together, mix the milk with them by 
degrees, then the rest of the ingredients; dip a fine 
close linen cloth into boiling water, and put it in a 
hair sieve; flour it a little, and tie it up close; put 
it into a saucepan containing six quarts of boiling 
water; keep a kettle of boiling water alongside of 
it, to fill up your pot as it wastes; be sure to keep it 
boiling six hours at least. 

Batter pudding. 
Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt and 
three eggs, beat up well with a little milk, added 
by degrees till the batter is quite smooth,. make it 
tlie thickness of cream, put into a buttered pie- 
dish, and bake three quarters of an hour, or into a 
buttered and floured basin tied over tight with a 
cloth, boil one and a half or two hours. 
JVhvmarket pudding. 
Put on to boil a pint of good milk, with half a 
lemon peel, a little cinnamon, and a bay-leaf, boil 
gently for five or ten minutes, sweeten with loaf 
sugar, break the yolks of five and the whites of 
three eggs into a basin, beat them well, and add 
the milk, beat all well together, and strain through 
a fine hair sieve or tammis, have some bread and 
butter cut very thin, lay a layer of it in a pic-dish, 
and then a layer of currants, and so on till the dish 
is nearly full, then pour the custard over it, and 
bake half an hour. 

JVexucastle or cabinet fmdding. 
Butter a half melon mould, or quart basin, and 
stick all round with dried chen-ies, or fine raisins, 
and fill up with bread and butter, &c. as in the 
above, and steam it an hour and a half. 



VermceUi pjtdding. 

Boil a pint of milk, with lemon peel and cinna> 
mon, sweeten with loaf sugar, strain through a 
sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, 
boil ten minutes, then put in the yolks of five and 
the whites of three eggs, mix well together, and 
steam it one houi* and a quarterj the same may be 
baked half an hour. 

Bread pudding. 

Make a pint of bread-crumbs, put them into a 
stewpan with as much milk as will cover them, the 
peel of a lemon, and a little nutmeg grated, a small 
piece of cinnamon; boil about ten minutes; sweeten 
with powdered loaf sugar; take out the cinnamon, 
and put in four eggs; beat all well together, and 
bake half an hoiu-, or boil rather more than an 
hour. 

Suet pudding. 

Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three table- 
spoonsful; eggs, two; and a little grated ginger; 
milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as pos- 
sible, roll it with the rolling pin so as to mix it 
well with the flour; beat up the eggs, mix them 
with the milk, and then mix all together; wet your 
cloth well in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, 
put into boiling water, and boil an hour and a 
quarter. 

Custard pudding. 

Boil a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pint of 
good cream; thicken with flour and water, made 
perfectly smooth, till it is stiff" enough to bear an 
egg on it; break in the yolks of five eggs, sweeten 
with powdered loaf sugar, grate in a little nutmeg, 
and the peel of a lemon; add half a glass of good 
brandy, then whip the whites of the five eggs till 
quite stiff", and mix gently all together; line a pie- 
dish with good puff" paste, and bake half an hour. 

N. B. Ground rice, potatoe flour, panada, and 
all puddings made from powders, are, or may be, 
prepared in the same way. 

» Boiled custards. 

Put a quart of new milk into a stewpan, with 
the peel of a lemon cut very thin, a little grated 
nutmeg, a bay or laurel leaf, a small stick of cin- 
namon; set it over a quick fire, but be careful it 
does not boil over; when it boils, set it beside the 
fire, and simmer ten minutes; break the yolks of 
eight, and the whites of four eggs into a basin, 
beat them well, then pour in the milk a little at a 
time, stirring it as quick as possible to prevent the 
eggs curdling; set it on the fire again, and stir well 
with a wooden spoon; let it have just one boil; pass 
it through a tammis, or fine sieve; when cold, add 
a little brandy, or white wine, as may be most 
agreeable to palate; serve up in glasses, or cups. 
To make a perigord pie. 

Take half a dozen partridges, and dispose of 
their legs in the same manner as is done with 
chickens, when intended to be boiled. Season 
them well with pepper, salt, a small quantity of 
cloves and mace beaten fine. Cut two pounds of 
lean veal, and one pound of fat bacon into small 
bits, and put them into a stewpan with half a pound 
of butter, together with some shallots, parsley, and 
thyme, all chopped together. Stew these till the 
meat appear sufficiently tender. Then season it 
in the same maimer as directed for the partridges. 
Strain and pound the meat in a mortar till it is 
perfectly smooth, then mix the pulp in some of the 
liquor in which it has been stewed. The pie-crust 
being raised, and ready to receive the partridges, 
put them in with the above-mentioned force-meat 
over them, and over that lay some thin slices of 
bacon. Cover the pie, with a thick lid, and be sure 
to close it well at the sides, to prevent the gravy 
from boiling out at the place where the joining is 
made, which would occasion the partridges to QHX 



172 



UMVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



dry. This sized pie will require three hours bak- 
ing, but be careful not to jiut it in a fierce heated 
oven. A pound of fresh truffles will add conside- 
rably to the merits of this excellent pie. 
To make a puff paste. 

Take a quarter of a peck of Hour, and rub it into 
a pound of butter very fine. Make it up into a 
light [)aste with cold water just stift'enouo;li to work 
it up. Then lay it nut about as thick as a crown 
piece; put a layer of butter all over, then sprinkle 
on a little flour, double it up, and roll it out again. 
Double and roll it with layers of butter three 
times, and it will be fit for use. 

To tnnke a short crust. 

Put six ounces of butter to eight ounces of floui', 
and work them well together; then mix it uji with 
as little water as possible, so as to have it a stiffish 
paste; then roll it out thin for use. 

'J'o make a good paste for large pies. 

Put to a peck of flour three eggs, then put in 
half H pound of suet, a pound and a half of butter 
and suet, and as much of the liquor as v.'iU make it 
a good light crust. Work it up well and roll it out. 

Anrdhcr method. — Take a peck of ilour, and six 
pounds of butter, boiled in a gallon of water, then 
skim it off into tlie flour, with as little of the li- 
quor as possible. AVork it up well into a paste, 
pull it into pieces till cold, then make it into the 
desired form. 

To make paste for tarts. 

Put an ounce of loat sugar, beat and sifted, to 
one pound of fine flour. ]\lake it into a stiff paste, 
witli a gill of boiling cream, and tliree ounces of 
butter. Work it well, and roll it very thin. 
To keep potatoes for sea provisimts. 

Slice them and bake them slowly and they will 
keep and form good flour for years. 

'J'o use hei'rings economically. 

The best method of using salted herrings with 
potatoes is, to parboil the potatoes without their 
skins, tlieu boil them with the herrings thorough- 
ly, and put liieni on a dish, v\ hen they will form a 
most excellent flavoured meal. 

To make a sack posset. 

Beat up the yolks and whites of 15 eggs, strain 
tliem, and theu put three quarters of a pound of 
white sugar in a pint of Canary, and mix it with 
the eggs in a basin. Set it over a chafing dish of 
coals, and keep continually stirring it until it is 
quite Iiot. Next grate some nutmeg in a quart of 
cailk, boil it, and then pour it into the eggs and 
■wine; v\hile pouring, hold the haml very higli, and 
let another person keep stirring the posset, which 
renders it smooth, and full bodied to the taste. 

Another method. — Take four Naples biscuits, 
and crumble them into a quart of new milk, when 
it boils a little, grate in some nutmeg, and sweeten 
it to taste: next pour in half a pint of suck. Keep 
stirring it, when it will be fit for table. 
Ale posset. 

Take a small piece of white bread, put it into a 
pint of milk, and set it over tlie fire. Tlien put 
some nutmeg and sugar into a pint of ale, warm it, 
and when tlie milk boils, pour it upon the ale. 
Let it stand a few minutes to clear. 

Green gooseberry cheese. 

Take G lbs. of unripe rough gooseberries, cut off 
tlie blossoms and stems, and put them in cold wa- 
ter for an hour or two; then take them out, bruise 
them in a marble mortar, and ])ut them into a 
brass pan or kettle, over a clear fire, stirring them 
till tender: then add 4^ lbs. of lump sugar poui.d- 
ed, and boil it till very thick, and of a fine green 
colour, stirring it all tJietime. 

To steavi potatoes. 

Put them clean washed, with their skins on, in- 
to a stearn saucepan, and let tiie Mater under thein 



be about half boiling, let them continue to boil ra- 
ther quickly, until they are «lone; if the water 
once relaxes from its heat, tlic goodness of the po- 
tato is sure to be afi\;cted, and to become soddened, 
let the quality be ever sci,good. A too precipitate 
boiling is equally disadvantageous; as the higher 
parts to the surface of the root bes;in to crack and 
open, while the centre part continues unheated 
and undecomposed. 

To make potato bread. 

Boil the potatoes not quite so soft as common, 
then dry them a short time on tlie fire, peel them 
while hot, and pound them as fine as possible, next 
])ut a small quantity of pearl asli to new yeast; 
wliilst it is working briskly, add as much rye-meal, 
or flour, as can be worked in. ]Mix the wliole well 
togetlier, but do not add any water to it. After tlie 
dough is thus prepared, let it stand an hour and a 
half or two hours before it is put into the oven; olv 
serve it will not require so long baking as regular 
flour bread. 

Another method. — Take 5 lbs. of di'ied potatoe 
starch, and 5 lbs. of the pulp; dissolve a suitable 
quantity of leaven or yeast in warm water, the 
mixture being exactly made the night before; le* 
it lie all night in a kneading trough, well covered 
and kept warm until the next day; this is the se- 
cond leaven; then add 5 lbs. more of starch, and 
the same quantity of pulp, and knead it well; the 
water must be in the proportion of a fifth part, tiial 
is, upon 20 lbs. of paste there must 'be 5 lbs. of 
water, which is to be used as hot as possible. 
To use frosted potatoes. 

If much frozen lay tliem in cold water, and to 
each peck of potatoes take a J of oz. of salt-petre 
dissolved in water, which mix with the fluid in 
which they are boiled; if the potatoes are so frozen 
as to be quite unfit for nourishment they will make 
starch, and will yield more flour than if unfer- 
mented by the icy power. This flour, with an 
equal quantity of wlieat flour, some butter, sugar, 
a little balm, and a few currants, makes excellent 
bread for tea. If formed into small cakes, and 
put into a slow oven, it will keep a moutli. 



SOUPS, &c. 



To make a tJireen of soup Flemish fashion. 

Scald half a dozen of turkey' pinions, foursheeps' 
rumps, and i a pound or more of pickled pork; 
tlien tie up eacJi sort together, scald also a good 
savoy cut into quarters and tied; put them altoge- 
tlier into a p,'\n with good broth, a fagot of sweet 
herbs, j)ar.sley, green shallots, 3 cloves, pepper and 
salt; boil slowly; when done, drain the meat; put it 
into the tureen, and serve a good gravy sauce with 
it. 

J\''exi>- England cho-ivder. 

Have a good haddock, cod, or any other solid 
fish, cut it in pieces lliree inches square, put a 
pound of fat salt pork in strips into the pot, set it 
on hot coals and fry out the oil; take out the pork 
and put in a layer of fish, over that a layer of 
onions in slices, then a layer of fish willi slips of 
fat salt pork, then another layer of onions, and so 
on alternately until your fish is consumed; mis 
some flour with as much water as will fill the pot; 
season with black pepper and salt to your taste, 
and boil it for half au hour. Have ready some 
crackers f Philadelphia pilot bread if you can get 
it) soa'ireu in water till they are a little softened, 
throw them into your chowder five minutes before 
you take it up. Serve in a tureen. 
J\'hillaga-taiuny soup. 

Cut 4 lbs. of a breast of veal into pieces, abou^l 
two inches by one; put tlie trimmings into a stew- 



COOKERY. 



173 



pan ■with two quarts of water, "with 12 corns of 
black ])epper, and the same of allspice; ■when it 
boils, skim it clean, and let it boil an hour and a 
half, thei\ strain it off; ^vliile it js boiling, fry of a 
nice brown in butter the bits of veal and four 
onions; when they are done, put the broth to them, 
put it on the fire; when it boils, skim it clean, let 
It simmer half an hour, then mix two spoonsful of 
curry and the same of flour, with a little cold wa- 
ter, and a teaspoonful of salt; add tliese to the 
soup, and simmer it gently till the veal is quite 
tender, and it is ready; or bone a couple of fowls 
or rabbits, and stew them in the manner directed 
above for the veal; and you may put in a braised 
eshallot, and some mace and ginger, instead of 
black pepper and allspice. 

A tureen of hodge-podge of different sorts. 

Take eitiier a brisket of beef, mutton, steaks, 
■whole pigeons, rabbits cut in quarters, veal, or 
poultrj"; boil a long time over a slow fire inasliort 
liquid, with seme onions, carrots, parsnips, tur- 
nips, celery,a fogot of parsley, green shallots, one 
clove of garlick, 3 of spices, a laurel leaf, thyme, a 
little basil, large thick sausages, and thin broth or 
■water; when done, drain tbe meat, and place it upon 
a dish intermixed with roots, sift and skim the 
sauce, re(hice some of it to a glaze, if dcsk-ed; 
glaze the meat with it, then add some gravy on the 
same stew-pan and broth sufficient to make sauce 
enough with pepper and salt: sift it in a sieve, 
and serve upon the meat. If brisket of beef 
is used, let it be half done before putting in the 
roots, which should be scalded first, as it makes 
tlie broth more palatable. 

Portable soup. 

Cut into small pieces 3 large legs of real, I of 
beef, anl the leaft part of a ham: lay the meat in a 
large cauldron, ■uitii a quarter of a pound of butter 
at the bottom, 4 ounces of ancliovies, and 2 ounces 
of mace. Cut small 6 heads of clean washed cele- 
ry, freed from green leaves, and put them into the 
cauldron, with 3 large carrots cut thin. Cover all 
.close, and set it on a moderate fire. When the 
gra\T begins to draw, keep taking it off till it is all 
extracted. Then cover the meat with water, let it 
boil gently for fo~tu- hours, tliei; strain it through a 
hair sieve into a clean pan, till it is reduced to one- 
tliird. Strain the gravj' drawn from the meat into 
a pan, anJ let it boil gently, until it be of a gluti- 
nous consistence. Take care and skim oft' all the 
fat as it rises. Watch it when it is nearly done, 
that it does not burn; next season it with Cayenne 
pepper, and pour it on flat earthen dishes, a quar- 
ter of an inch thick. Let it stand till the next day, 
and then cut it out by round tins larger than a 
crown piece. Set the cakes in dishes in the sim to 
dry, and turn them often. When fully dried, put 
tiiem into a tin bos witli a piece of clean white pa- 
per between each, and keep them in a dry place. 
If made in frosty weather it will soon become so- 
lid. This kind of soup is exceedingly convenient 
for private tamilies, for by putting one of the cakes 
in a saucepan with about a pint of water, and a lit- 
tle salt, a basin of good brotli may be made in a 
few minutes. It will likewise make an excellent 
gravy for roatt turkeys, fowls, and game. 
Curry. 

Take the skin off two chickens; carve, wash and 
dry them; pat ti\em in a stew pan with a teacupful 
of water, salt, and a few onions, and stew them 
with a few green peas, or the egg pl.ant, till ten- 
der; then take a lump of butter, the size of a pi- 
geon's egg, a little mace, Cayenne pepper to taste, 
a teaspoonful each of fresh turmeric and carda- 
moms, pounded with a shallot in a marble mortar; 
roll these ingredients with a little flour in the but- 
ter, and dissolve tliem ia the stew, if the curry is 



to be brown, it must be fried a little before the cur- 
ry-ball is added to the gravy. 

Another. — Carve a pair of fat young fowls with 
a sharp knife, precisely as if at table; dust them 
with flour, fry them in butter till they are well 
browned, lay them in a stew-pan, with slips of 
four large onions, acTfl boiling water to the brown- 
ing, &c. left in the pan, give it a boil, and pour 
the wliole over your cliicken; if not liquor enough 
to radier more than cover it, add hot water: put on 
the lid of your pan and set it on hot coals. In half 
an hour take out a cup of the gravy, mix it well 
with a table-spoonful of curry powder, and throw 
it again into the pan; stir it well round; taste and 
see if your gravy is warm, ifnot, add Cayenne; bub- 
ble the whole quietly till the fowls are tender; 
serve in a deep dish, with boiled rice. 
JSlaluy^s curry. 

Proceed as above; fry the onions, pieces of 
fowls and a couple of egg-plants in slices; put the 
whole in your stew-pan with the milk of two cocoa- 
nuts; grate the flesh, put it into a linen bag and 
S(;ueeze out the juice, wjiich put in the saucepsm 
likewise; add the curry and finish as above. 
Curry powder. 

Coriander seed, three ounces; turmeric, five 
ounces; black pepper, mustard, and ginger, eacli 
one ounce; lesser cardamom seeds, half an ounce; 
Cayenne pejiper, half an ounce; cinnamon, and 
cummin seed a quarter of an ounce each. Dry 
them well; reduce them separately to a pow- 
der; pass them tlirough a fine sieve, and mix them 
well. It should be kept io a closely stopped bot- 
tle, in a (h'v place. 

Welsh rabbit — a iiexo receipt for. 

Cut your clieese into small slips, if soft, if hard, 
grate it down. Have ready a spirit of wine lamp, 
&c. and deep block-tin dish; put in the chees* 
with a lump of butter, and set it over the lamp. 
Have rea<ly the yolk of an egg wiiipped, with half 
a glass of Madeira, and as much ale, or beer; stir 
your cheese when melted, till it is thoroughly mix- 
ed witli tlie butter, then add gradually the egg and 
wine, keep stirring till it forms a smooth mass. 
Season with Cayenne and grated nutmeg. — To be 
eaten with a thin hot toast. 



J\'nte by the American Editor. 

It often happens, that in travelling, the materials 
for a rabbit may be had when there is nothing else 
in the house the gourmand can eat. In this case, 
if there is no blazer, or chafing dish, an excellent 
substitute is formed in a moment, by two soup 
plates, separated from each other by pieces of a 
bottle-cork placed on tlie rim of the lower one, 
which should contain any kind of spirits. Put your 
cheese into the top one, fire the spirits with a slip 
of paper, and set your rabbit on tiie corks; it an- 
swers as well as the most expensive heater in 
Christendom. — I'robatum est. 
Soup maigre. 

Take of veal, beef cut into small pieces, and 
scrag of mutton, 1 lb. each; put them into a sauce- 
pan, with 2 quarts of water; put into a clean cloth 
1 oz. of barley, an onion, a small bundle ot sweet 
herbs, 3 or 4 heads of celery cut small, a little 
mace, 2 or 3 cloves, 3 turnips pared and cut in two, 
a large carrot cut into small pieces, and a young 
lettuce, Cover the pot close, and let it stew veiy 
gently for six hours. Then take o^ut the spice, 
sweet herbs, and onion, and pour all into a soup 
dish, seasoned with salt. 

Mock tw^t'.e soup. 

Scald a calf's head with the skin on, and take 
off the horny part, which cut into two-inch square 
pieces: clean and dry them well m a cioth, and put 
them into a slew pan, with 4 quarts cf water raadt 

P 2 



174 



UNn^RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



as follows: Take 6 or 7 lbs. of beef, a calf's foot, 
a shank of ham, an onion, 2 carrots, a turnip, a 
head of celery, some cloves and whole pepper, a 
■ bunch of sweet herbs, a little lemon peel,'and a 
few truffles. Put these into 8 quarts of water, and 
stew them gently till tiie liquid is I'educed one 
half; then strain it off, and put it into the stew pan 
■with the horny parts of the calf's head. Add some 
knotted marjoram, savory, thyme, parsley cliopped 
small, with some cloves and mace pounded, a lit- 
tle Cayenne pepper, some green onions, a shallot 
cut fine, a few chopped mushrooms, and half a pint 
of Madeira wine. Stew these gently till the soup 
is reduced to two quarts, then heat a little broth; 
mix some flour, smoolliing it with the yolks of 2 
eggs, and stir it over a gentle fire till it is near 
boiling. Add this to the soup; keep stirring as 
you pour it in, and continue stewing for another 
hour. When done, squeeze in the juice of half a 
lemon, half an orange, and throw in some boiled 
force-meat balls. Serve it up in a tureen hot. 
This soup is deliciously gratifying and nutritive. 
Asparagus soup. 

Put a small broiled boue to 1^ pints of peas, and 
water in proportion, a root of celery, a small bunch 
of sweet herbs, a large onion, Cayenne pepper, and 
salt to taste; boil it briskly for five hours, strain 
and pulp it; then add a little spinach juice, and 
asparagus boiled and cut into small pieces* A tea- 
spoonful of walnut soy, and a tea-spoonful of mush- 
room catsup, answers as well as the bone. 
Gi/jlet soup. 

Take 4 pounds of gravy beaf, 2 pounds of scrag of 
mutton, and 2 pounds of scrag of veal; boil them in 2 
gallons of water, stew them gently till it begins to 
taste well, pour it out and let it stand till cold, skim 
off all the fat. Take 2 pair of giblets well scaled, 
put them to the broth, and simmer them till they 
are very tender. Take them out and strain the 
soup through a cloth. Put a piece of butter rolled 
in flour into the stew pan, with some fine chopped 
parsle}', chives, a little penny royal, and sweet 
marjoram. Place the soup over a slow fire, put in 
the giblets, fried butter, herbs, a little JNladeira 
wine, some salt, and Cayenne pepper; wiien the 
herbs are tender, send the soup and giblets intermix- 
ed to table. This forms a very savoury dish. 
White soup. 

Stew a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton 
three or four hours, with spice; strain it; blanch ^ 
a pound of sweet almonds, beat them with a spoon- 
ful or two of cream to prevent their oiling; put 
them with a pint of cream into the soup, stir it and 
give it a boil; strain it through a cloth, squeeze 
the almonds as dry as possible, heat it again, and 
thicken it as a custard with eggs; put a toasted roll 
in the tureen, and pour the soup over it. If there 
is a breast of cold fowl or veal, less almonds will 
do; if the meat be stewed and sti'ained tlie day be- 
fore, it does much better. 

Charitable sonp. 

Take the'Ikjuor of meat boiled the day before, 
with tiie bones of leg and shin of beef; add to the 
liquor as much as will make 130 quarts, also the 
meat of 10 stones of leg and shin of beef, and 2 ox 
heads, all cut in pieces; add 2 bunches of carrots, 
4 bunches of turnips, 2 bunches of leeks, ^ a peck 
of onions, 1 bunch of celery, ^ a lb. of pepper, and 
some salt. Boil it for six hours. Either oatmeal 
or barley may be put in to thicken it, if thought 
necessary. This soup may be used at any gentle- 
man's table. 

Veal gravy sonp. 

Garnish the bottom of the stew-pan with thin 
pieces of lard, then a few slices of ham, slices of 
veal cutlet, sliced onions, carrots, parsnips, celery, 
a few cloves upon the meat, and a spoonful of broth; 



soak it on the fire in this manner till the veal tnrows 
out its juice; then put it on a stronger fire, till the 
meat catches to tiie bottom. of the pan, and is 
brought to a proper colour: then add a sufficient 
quantity of light broth, and simmer it on a slow 
fire till the meat is thorougldy done; add a little 
thyme and mushrooms. Skim and sift it clear for 
use. 

Beef gravy soup. 
Cat slices of lean beef, according to the quantity 
wanted, which place in a stew-pan, upon sliced 
onions and roots, adding two spoonsful of fat broth; 
soak this on a slow fire for half an hour, stirring it 
well; when it catches a proper colour add thin 
broth made of suitable herbs, with a little salt 
over it. 

A poor man^s soup. 
Pick a handful of parslej' leaves, mince them 
fine, and strew over a little salt: shred six green 
onions, and put them with the parsley in a sauce- 
boat. Add three table-spoonsful of oil and vinegar 
with some pepper and salt. 

A cheap rice and meat sonp. 
Put a pound of rice and a little pepper and broth 
herbs into two quarts of water; cover them close, 
and simmer very softly; put in a little cinnamon, 
two pounds of good ox-cheek, and boil tlie whole 
till the goodness is incorporated by the licjuor. 

Another cheap soup. — Take an ox cheek, two 
pecks of potatoes, a quarter of a peck of onions, 
three quarters of a pound of salt, and an ounce and 
a half of pepper — to be boiled in ninety ])ints of 
water, on a slow fire until reduced to sixty. A 
pint of this soup, with a small piece of meat, is a 
good meal for a hearty working man. Some of 
every vegetable, with a few herbs, may be added. 
Herring soup. 
Take eight gallons of water, and mix it with five 
pounds of barley-meal. Boil it to the consistence 
of a thick jelly. Season it with salt, pepper, vine- 
gar, sweet herbs, and, to give it a gratifying fla- 
vour, add the meat of four i-ed herrings pounded. 
7'o prepare a nutritious soup. 
A pound of Scotch barley, with sufficient time 
allowed in the cooking, will make a gallon of wa- 
ter into a tolerable pudding consistency. A pint 
basin filled with it will hold a spoon upright, when 
at its proper degree of warmth for eating. Tho- 
roughly steeped, it will produce a rich pulp, the 
form of the grains being nearly lost. Five hours' 
exposure, in a moderately heated oven, will oe suf- 
ficient; and it may be improved by an hour or two 
more. 

Amongst other means for such preparation, when 
a baker's oven has been emptied of its bread, a pan 
of one gallon size may be put in to steep its con- 
tents during the preceding night, and then renew- 
ing the usual baking in the morning. What has 
been lost by evaporation, may be renewed by the 
addition of warm water. All tlie seasoning re- 
quisite to make it as savoury as plain family dishes 
generally are, will be about thrcee large onions, 
one ounce of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of pep- 
per. This seasoning should be put in before send- 
ing it to the oven. 

'Jo make jelly broth. 
Put into the stew-pan, slices of beef, veal fillet, 
a fowl, and one or two pai'tridges, according to the 
quantity required. Put it on the fire without li- 
quid, until it catches a little, and add the meat now 
and then. To give it a proper colour, add some 
good clear boiling broth and scalded roots, as car- 
rots, tui-nips, parsnips, parsley roots, celery, large 
onions, two or three cloves, a small bit of nutmeg 
and whole pepper; boil it on a slow fire about four 
or five hours with attention; and add a few cloves 
of garlic or shallots, and a small fagot, or bunch of 



COOKERY. 



175 



parsley and thyme tied together. "When it is of a 
good yellow colour, sift itj it serves for sauces, 
and adds strength to the soups. 
.Cooling broth. 

The herbs, fruits, seeds, flowers, or roots which 
are employed for cooling broth, are purslain, let- 
tuces, chervil, leeks, borage, buriiet, sorrel, gar- 
den and wild endive, bugloss, hop-tops, cos let- 
tuces, young nettles, cucumbers, tops of elder, 
dandelion, liver-wort, fumitory, beet roots, Sec. 
Wash and chop a proper quantity, according to 
order, and boil a short time in thin veal or chicken 
broth; sift and keen it in a cool place. Warm it 
for use without boiling. 

Common sauce. 

Soak slices of veal, ham, onions, parsnips, two 
cloves of garlic, two heads of cloves, tiien add 
broth, a glass of white wine, and two slices of le- 
mon; simmer it over a slow fire, skim it well, and 
sift it; add 3 cloves of rocambole, bruised. 
Sweet sauce. 

Mix two glasses of red wine, one of vinegar, 
three spoonsful of cullis, a bit of sugar, one sliced 
onion, a little cinnamon, and a laurel-leaf; boil 
them a quarter of an hour. 

J\'Iiser''s smice. 

Chop five or six large onions, mix a little ver- 
juice, or vinegar, pepper, salt, and a little butter; 
serve it up either warm or cold. 
Pontiff''s sauce. 

Soak slices of veal, liam, sliced onions, carrots, 
parsnips, and a white head of celery; add a glass 
of white wine, as much good broth, a clove of gar- 
lic, four shallots, one clove, a little coriander, and 
two slices of peeled lemons. Boil on a slow fire 
till the meat is done; skim it and sift in a sieve; 
add a little catsup, and a small quantity of fine 
chopped parsley, just before it is used. 
Housexuife^s sauce. 

Take some of the above sauce sifted without 
gravy, add a bit of butter rolled in flour, and chop- 
ped chervil: use it when warm. 
Parsoii's sauce. 

Chop lemon-peel veiy fine, with two or three 
pickled cucumbers, a bit of butter, salt, and coarse 
pepper; a little flour, with two spoonsful of catsup, 
and stew it on the fire without boiling. 
J^xai's sauce. 

Put slices of veal and ham in a stew-pan, with 
a spoonful of oil, two mushrooms, a fagot of pars- 
ley, a clove of garlic, two heads of cloves, half a 
leaf of laurel; let it catch a little on the fire; then 
add some good broth, a little gravy, and some 
white wine; simmer it for some time, skim it well, 
and sift in a sieve. When ready, add two or three 
green shallots, and a dozen of pistachio-nuts, 
whole. 

JldmiraVs sauce. 

Chop an anchovy, capers, and seven or eight 
green rocamboles; simmer them on the fire with a 
little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and butter roll- 
ed in floui'; when ready, add a lemon squeezed. 
Sauce piqiiante. 

Put a bit of butter with two sliced onions into a 
stew-pan, with a carrot, a parsnip, a little thyme, 
laurel, basil, two cloves, two shallots, a clove of 
garlic, and some parsley; turn the whole over the 
fire until it be well coloured; then shake in some 
flour, and moisten it with some broth, and a spoon- 
ful of vinegar. Let it boil over a slow fire: skim, 
and strain it through a sieve. Season it with salt 
and pepper, and serve it with any dish required 
to be heightened. 

Sauce for veal. 

Take the bones of cold roast or boiled veal, 
dredge tiiem well with flour, and put them into a 
stew-pan, with a pint and a half of broth or water, 



a small onion, a little grated or finely minced le- 
mon-peel, or the peel of a quarter of a small le- 
mon pared as thin as possible, half a tea-spoonful 
of salt, and a blade of pounded mace; — to thicken 
it, rub a table-spoonful of flour into half an ounce 
of butter; stir it into the brotli, and set it on the 
fire, and let it boil very gently for about half an 
hour, strain through a tammis or sieve, and it is 
ready to put to the veal to warm up, wliich is to 
be done by placing the stew-pan by the side of the 
fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, and cover the bot- 
tom of the dish with toasted bread sippets cut into 
triangles, and garnish the dish with slices of hain 
or bacon. 

Bechamel or -white sauce. 

Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two 
pounds of lean veal, half a pound of lean ham, melt 
in a stew-paa two ounces of butter; when melted, 
let the whole simmer until it is ready to catch at 
the bottom, (it requires great attention, as if it 
happen to catch at the bottom of the stew-pan, it 
will spoil the look of yom* sauce,) then add to it 
three table-spoonsful of flour; when well mixed, 
add to it three pints of broth or water, ])our a lit- 
tle at a time, that the thickening be smooth, stir it 
until it boil, put the stew-pan on tlie corner of the 
stove to boil gently for two hours, season it with 
four cloves, one onion, twelve pepper-con^s, a 
blade of mace, a few mushrooms, and a fagot made 
of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let 
the sauce reduce to a quart, skim the fat oft", and 
strain it through a tammis cloth. 

Kitchener^ s [Dr) sauce, superlative. 

Claret or port wine, and mushroom catsup, a 
pint of each; half a pint of walnut or other pickle 
liquor; pounded anchovies, four ounces; fresh le- 
mon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce; peeled and 
sliced eshallots, the same; scraped horse-radish, 
ditto. ; allspice and black pepper, powdered, half 
an ounce each; Cayenne, one drachm, or curry 
powder, three drachms; celery-seed, bruised, a 
drachm. All avoirdupois weight. Put these into a 
wide mouth bottle, stop it close, shake it up every 
day for a fortnight, and strain it, when some think 
it improved by the addition of a quarter pint soy, 
or thick browning, and you will have a " delicious 
double relish." 

A dish of maccaroui. 

Boil four ounces of maccaroni till it is quite ten- 
der, then lay it on a sieve tc drain, and put it into 
a stew-pan with about a gill of cream, and a piece 
of butter rolled in flour; stew it five minutes and 
pour it on a plate. Lay Parmesan cheese toasted 
all over it, and send it up in a water-plate. 
Sauce Italienne. 

Put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, with mush- 
rooms, onion, parsley, and thehalf of a laurel Icif, 
all cut fine; turn the whole over the fire sometime, 
and shake in a little flour; moisten it with a glass 
of white wine, and as much good broth; add salt, 
pepper, and a little mace; beat all fine. Let it boil 
half an hour: then skim away the fat, and serve it 
up. A fine flavour may be given to it whilst boil- 
ing, by putting in a bunch of sweet herbs, which 
take out before the dish is served up. 
JVonpareil sauce. 

Take a slice of boiled ham, as much breast of 
roasted fowl, a pickled cucumber, a hard yolk of 
an egg, one anchovy, a little parsiey, and a head 
of siiallot, chopped very fine; boil it a moment in 
good catsup, and use it for meat or tisli. 
JVivernoise sauce. 

Put in a small stew-pan a couple of slices of ham, 
a clove of garlic, two cloves, a laurel-leaf, sliced 
onions, and roots: let it catch the fire a little. Then 
add a small quantity of broth, two spoonsful of cat- 
sup, and a spoonful of the best vinegar. Simmer it 



176 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT ROOK. 



for an hour on the side of a stove, then sift it in a 
sieve, and serve it for a high flavoured sauce. 
Gravy cakes. 

Chop two legs of beef in pieces, put them into a 
pot of -water, stew it over a slow fire a day and a 
night; then add onions, herbs and spices as for gra- 
vy; continue stewing it till the meat is off the 
hones, and the gravy quite out; then strain the li- 
quor into a milk-pan, to which quantity it should 
he reduced; when cold, take off the fat, put it into 
a saucepan, and add whatever is required to flavour 
it; simmer it on a slow fire till reduced to about 
twelve saucers two-thirds full, put them in an airy 
place till as dry as leather, put them in paper bags, 
and keep in a dry place. 

General's sauce. 

To make this sauce properly, infuse all the fol- 
lowing ingredients for twenty-four hours, on ashes 
in an earthen pot, if possible, which must be veiy 
^vell stopped; viz. split six shallots, a clove of gar- 
lic, two laurel leaves, thyme and basil in propor- 
tion, ti'uffles, tarragon leaves, half an ounce of mus- 
tard seed, bruised, six small pieces of Seville 
orange peel, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, as 
much mace, half an ounce of long pepper, two 
ounces of salt; squeeze in a whole lemon, and add 
half a glass of verjuice, five spoonsful of vinegar, 
and a pint of white wine; let it settle, and sift it 
very clear. This may be kept, bottled, a longtime, 
and it will serve for all sorts of meat and fish — but 
it must be used in moderation. 
Sailor''s sauce. 

Chop a fowl's liver witli two or three shallots, 
and a couple of truffles or mushT-ooms; simmer 
these in a spoonful of oil, two or tin-ee spoonsful 
of gravy, a glass of white wine, a little salt and 
coarse pepper; simmer it about half aii hour, and 
skim it veiy well before using. 
Qiieen^s sauce. 

Simmer crumbs of bi'ead in good gran-, until it 
is quite tliick, take it off the fire, and add a few 
sweet almonds pounded, two hard yolks of eggs, 
and a breast of fowl roasted, all pounded very line; 
boil a sufficient quantity of cream to your sauce, 
aftd sift all together, then add pepper and salt; and 
warm it without boiling. 

Carach sauce. 

Take three cloves of garlic, each cut in half, 
half an ounce of Cayenne pepper, and a spoonful 
or two eacii of Indian soy and walnut pickle; mix 
it in a pint of vinegar, with as much cochineal as 
■will colour it. 

Tomafa catsuf). 

Boll tomatas, full ripe, iu their juice, to nearly 
the consistence of a pulp, pass them through a hair 
sieve, and add salt to the taste. Aromatize it suf- 
ficiently with clove, pepper and nutmegs. 
Cutsu]) for sea-stores. 

Take a gallon of strong stale beer, a pound of 
anchovies washed from the pickle, the same of shal- 
lots peeled; half an ounce of mace, half an ounce 
of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, 
three or four large races of ginger, and two quarts 
of large mushroom flaps, rubbed to pieces, Cover 
tbeSe close, and let it simmer till half wasted. Then 
sVain it through a fliuuiel bag; let it stand till quite 
cold, and then bottle it. This may be carried to 
any part of tiie world; and a spoonful of it to a lb. 
of fresh butter melted, will make a fine fish sauce, 
or will supply the place of gravy sauce. The 
stronger and staler the beer die better will be the 
catsup. 

Anotlier. — Chop twenty-four anchovies, having 
first bon^d them: Put to tliem ten shallots cut small 
and a handful of scraped horse-radish, a quarter 
of an ounce of mace, a quart of white wine, a pint 
of vraCer, and the same quantity of red winej a le- 



mon cut into slices, half a pint of anchovy liquor, 
twelve cloves, and tlie same number of pepjier- 
corns. Hoil them together till it comes to a quart, 
then strain it off, cover it close, and keep it in j» 
cold dry place. Two spoonsful of it will be sufH- 
cient for a pound of butter. It is a good sauce for 
Ijoiled fowls, or, in the room of gravy, lowering it 
with hot water, and thickening it with a piece of 
butter rolled in ilour. 

Fish sauce. 

Take walnuts at the season for piclcling, slice 
tliera into an an earthen pan, between every layer 
throw a small handful of salt, stir it with a wooderv 
stirrer every day for a fortnight; strain tlie liquor 
through a coarse cloth, and let it stand to settle; 
pour ofl'the clear, and boil it with a pound of an- 
cliovies to each pint; skim it, and let it stand to 
cool; give it another boil, add one pint of red port, 
and one of best white wine vinegar to each pint of 
liquor; also mace, cloves, and nutmegs, of each, 
half a quarter of an ounce, some flour of mustard, 
sliced iiorse-radish, and shallot, or a clove of garlic 
in each bottle. 

Keep it well corked with a bladder tied over. 
The spice may be bruised or not, as desired, and 
add a little whole black, or Jamaica pepper, as 
thonglit best. 

Jlnother.--'TA]ie one pound of anchovies, a quart 
Q^ claret, three quarters of a pint of white wine vi- 
negar, half an ounce of cloves and mace, two races 
of ginger sliced, a little black pepper, the peel of 
a lemon, a piece of horse-radish, a large onion, a 
bunch of tiiyrae and savory; set all these over a slow- 
fire to simmer an hour, then strain it through a 
sieve; when cold, put it in a bottle with the spice, 
but not the herbs. To a large coflee-cupful cold, 
put a pound of butter; stir it over tiie fire till it is 
as thick as cream; shake the bottle when used, and 
put no ^^•ater to the butter. 

Cream saticefor a hare. 

Run the cream over the hare or venison just be- 
fore frotliipg it, and catch it in a dish; boil it up 
with the yolks of two eggs, some onion, and a piece 
of butter rolled in flour and salt. Half a pint of 
cream is the proportion for two eggs. 
Ragout of asparagus. 

Scrape one hundred of grass clean; put them into 
cold water; cut them as far as is good and green, 
chop small two heads of endive, a young lettuce, 
find an onion. Put a quarter of a pound of butter 
into the stew pan, and when it is melted, put in the 
grass with the other articles. Shake them well, 
and when tJiey have stewed ten minutes, season 
them with a little pepper and salt; sti'ew in a lit- 
tle flour, shake them about, and then pour in half 
a pint of gra\7. Stew tlie whole till the sauce is 
very good and thick, and then pour all into the 
dish. Garnish with a few of the small tops of the 
gi'ass. 

The same of mushrooms. — Broil on a gridiron some 
large peeled mushrooms, and clean ott"ihe inside; 
when the outside is brown, put them into a stew- 
pan with a sulncient quantity of water to cover 
them; when they have stewed ten minutes, put to 
them a spoonful of white wine, the same of brown- 
ing, and a little vinegar. Thicken it with butter 
and flour, give a gentle boil, and serve it up with 
sippets round the dish. 

Of artichoke bottoms. — Soak them in warm wa- 
ter for two or three hours, changing the water; 
then put them into the stew-pan with some good 
gravy, mushroom catsup, or powder. Add a little 
Cayenne pepper and salt when they boil; tliickoii 
them with a little floui-, put them into the dish 
witli sauce over them, and serve them hot. 

Of calves'' sxveet-breads. — Scald two or three 
sweet-breads, cut each into three or four pieces. 



PASTRY, &c. 



177 



nnd piit them into a stew-pan ■with muslirooms, 
butter, and a fagot of sweet herbs; soak these to- 
gether a moment, then add broth and gravy; sim- 
mer on a slow tire, skim tlie sauce well, and reduce 
it; season with pepper, salt, and lemon juice when 
ready. 

Of roots. — Cut carrots and parsnips to the length 
of a finger, and of much the same thickness; boil 
tliem till half done in water, put them into a stew- 
jian with small bits of ham, chopped parsley, and 
shallots, pepper and salt, a glass of wine and broth; 
let them stew slowly until the brotli is reduced 
pretty thick, and add tl>e squeeze of a lemon when 
ready to serve. For maigre, instead of ham, use 
mushrooms, and make a mixture heat up with yolks 
of eggs and maigre brotli. Celery is done much 
the same, only it is cut smaller. If these roots are 
to be served in a boat for sauce, boil them tender 
in tlie broth pot, or in water, cut them into the de- 
sired length, aud serve with a good gravy or white 
eauce. 



PASTHY, &c. 



To make a rich plum cake. 

Take one pound of fresh butter,' one pound of 
sugar, one pound and a half of floiu", two pounds of 
currants, a glass of brand}', one pound of sweet- 
meats, two ounces of sweet almonds, ten eggs, a 
quarter of an ounce of allspice, and a quarter of an 
ounce of cinnamon. 

Melt the butter to a cream and put in the sugar. 
Stir it till quite light, adding the allspice, and 
pounded cinnamon; in a quarter of an hour take 
the yolks of tlie eggs, and work them in, two or 
three at a time; and the whites of the same must 
by this tim2 be beaten into a strong snow quite 
ready to work in; as the paste must not stand to 
chill the butter, or it will be heavy, work in the 
whites gradually: then add the orange-peel, lemon, 
and citron, cut in fine stripes, and the currants, 
which must be mixed in well, with the sweet al- 
monds. Then add the sifted flour and glass of 
brandy. Bake this cake in a tin hoop in a hot 
oven for three hours, and put twelve sheets of pa- 
per under it to keep it from burning. 

Jl good plain cake. — The following is a receipt 
for making a good plain cake, to be given to chil- 
dren, at breakfast, instead of buttered bread. 

Take as much dough as will make a quartern 
loaf, (either made at home, or procured at the ba- 
ker's) work into this a quarter of a pound of but- 
ter, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and a 
handful of caraway seeds. When well worked to- 
gether, ptiU into pieces the size of a golden pip- 
pin, and work it together again. This must be 
done three times, or it will be in lumps, and heavy 
vs'hea baked. 

Icehigfor cakes. 

Put one pound of fine sifted, treble refined sugar 
into a basin, and the whites of three new-laid eggs; 
beat tlie sugar and eggs up well with a silver spoon, 
until it becomes very white and thick: dust the 
cake over witli flour, and then brush it off, by way 
of taking the grease from the outside, which pre- 
vents the iceiug from running; put it on smooth 
■with a palette knife, and garnish according to fan- 
cy; any ornaments should be put on immediately, 
tor if the iceing get dry, it will not stick on. 
id rich seed cake. 

Take a pound and a quarter of flour well dried, 
a pound of butter, a pound of loaf sugar, beat and 
silted, eight eggs and two oimces of caraway seeds, 
one grated nutmeg, and its weight in cinnamon. 
Beat the butter into a cream, put in the sugar, beat 
the ■whites of tlie eggs and the yolks seiiaralely, 
X 



then mix them with the butter and sugar. Beat in 
the flour, spices, and seed, a little before sending 
it away. Bake it two hours in a quick oven. 

Jl plain pound cake. 
_ Beat one pound of butter in an earthen pan un- 
til it is like a fine thick cream, then beat in nine 
whole eggs till quite light. Put in a glass of bran- 
dy, a little lemon-peel, shred fine, then work in a 
pound and a quarter of flour; put it into tlie hoop 
or pan and bake it for an hour. A jiound plum 
cake is made the same with putting one pound and 
a half of clean washed currants, and half a pound 
of candied lemon-peel. 

ilata/za cakes. 

Beat half a pound each of sweet and bitter al- 
monds in fine orange,, rose, or ratafia water, mix 
half a pound of fine pounded and sifted sug.irwith 
the same, add the whites of four eggs well beaten 
to it, set it over a modei-ate fire in a preserving- 
pan. Stir it one way until it is pretty hot, and 
when a little cool form it into small rolls, and cut 
it into thin cakes. Shake some flour lightly on 
them, give each a light tap, and put them on su- 
gar papers, sift a little sugar on them, and put 
them into a thorough slack oven. 
W7gg-s. _ 

Put half a pint of warm milk to three quarters 
of a pound of fine flour; mix in it two or three 
spoonsful of light yeast. Cover it up, and set it 
before the fire an hour, in order to make it rise. 
Work into it four ounces each of sugar and but- 
ter, make it into cakes, or wiggs, with as little flour 
as possible, and a few caraway seeds, and bake 
them quick. 

JBath cakes. 

Mix well together, half a pound of butter, one " 
pound of flour, five eggs, and a cupful of yeast. 
Set the whole before the fire to rise, which effect- 
ed, add a quarter of a pound of fine powdered su- 
gar, an ounce of caraways well mixed in, and roll 
the paste out into little cakes. Bake them on tiiis, 
Shrewsbury cakes. 

Mix half a pound of butter well beat like cream, 
and the same weight of flour, one egg, si.x ounces 
of beaten and sifted loaf sug?.r, and half an ounce 
of caraway seeds. Form these into a paste, roll 
them thin, and lay them in sheets of tin; then bake 
tliem in a slow oven. 

Portugal cakes. 

Mix into a pound of fine flour, a pound of loaf 
sugar, beat and sifted, and rub it into a pound of 
butter, till it is thick, like grated white bread; 
then put to it two spoonsful of rose-water, two of 
sack, and ten eggs; work them well with a whisk, 
and put in eight ounces of currants. Butter the tin 
pans, fill them half full, and bake them. If made 
without currants they Will keep a year. 
Ginger cakes -without butter. 

Take one pound of sugar, a quarter of a poun(' 
of ginger, a pint of water, two pounds of flour, and 
eight caps of orange-peel. Pound and sift the gin- 
ger, and add a pint of water; boil it five minutes, 
then let it stand till cold. Pound the preserved 
orange peel, and pass it through a hair-sieve; put 
the flour on a pasteboard, make a wall, and put in 
the orange peel and ginger with the boiled water; 
mix this up to a paste and roll it out; prick the 
cakes before baking them. 

Savoy cakes. 

To one poimd of fine sifted sugar, put the yolks 
of ten eggs, ^have the whites in a separate pan, ) 
and set it, if m summer, in cold water: if there is 
any ice set the pan on it, as it will cause the eggs 
to be beat finer. Then beat the yolks and sugar 
well with a wooden spoon for 20 minutes, and put 
in the rind of a lemon grated; beat up the whites 
with a -whisk, until they become quite stiff aitj 



178 



UjflVERSx\L RECEIPT BOOK. 



■white as snow. Stir them info the batter by de- 
grees, then add | of a pound of well dried flour; 
finally, put it in a mould in a slack oven to bake. 
Saffron cukes. 

Take a quartern of fine flour, 1 h lbs. of butter, .3 
oz. of caraway seeds, eggs, well beaten, ^ of an 
oz. of well beaten cloves and mace, a little pound- 
ed cinnamon, I lb. of sugar, a little rose-water and 
saffron, a pint and a half of yeast, and a quart of 
milk. Mix them tims: first boil the milk and but- 
ter, then skim off" the butter, and mix it with the 
flour and a little of tiie milk. Stir the yeast into 
the rest and strain it; mix it with the flour, put in 
the eggs and spice, rose-water, tincture of saffron, 
sugar, and eggs. Beat it all well up, and bake it 
in a hoop or pan well buttered. Send it to a quick 
oven, and an hour and a half will do it. 
Queen cakes. 

Take a pound of sugar, beat and sift it, a pound 
of well dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, 
and half a pound of currants washed and picked; 
grate a nutmeg and an equal quantity of mace and 
cinnamon, work the butter to a cream, put in the 
sugar, beat the whites of the eggs 20 minutes, and 
mix them with the butter and sugar. Then beat 
the yolks for half an hour and put them to the but- 
ter. Beat the whole together, and when it is ready 
for the oven, put in the flour, spices, and currants; 
sift a little sugar over them, and bake them in tins. 
Jiice cakes. 

Beat the yolks of 15 eggs for nearly half an hour, 
•with a whisk, mix well with them ten ounces of 
fine sifted loaf sugar, put in half a pound of ground 
rice, a little orange water or brandy, and the rinds 
of two lemons grated, then add the whites of seven 
eggs well beaten, and stir tiie whole together for a 
quarter of an hour. Put them into a hoop and set 
them in a quick oven for half an hour, when they 
■will be properly done. 

Lemon cakes. 

Take one pound of sugar, three quarters of a 
pound of flour, 14 eggs, two table-spoonsful of rose- 
water, the raspings and juice of four lemons; when 
the yolks are well beat up and separated, add the 
powder sugar, the lemon raspings, the juice, and 
the rose-water; beat them well together in a pan 
•with a round bottom, till it becomes quite iiglit, 
for half an hour. Put the paste to the whites pre- 
viously well whisked about, and mix it very liglit. 
When well mixed sift in the flour and knead it in 
■with the paste, as light as possible; form the bis- 
cuits and bake them in small oval tins, -ivith six 
sheets of paper under them, in a moderate heat. 
Butter the tins well or it will prove diflicult to take 
out the biscuits, which will be exceedingly nice if 
•well made. Ice them previous to baking, but very 
lightly and even. 

Sanhvry cakes. 

Take a pound of dough made for white bread, 
roll it out, and put bits of butter upon the same as 
for puff" paste, till a pound of the same has been 
■worked in; roll it out very thin, then cut it into 
bits of an oval size, according as the cakes are 
■wanted. Mix some good moist sugar with a little 
brandy, suflicient to wet it, then mix some clean 
vashed cuiTants willi the former, put a little upon 
each bit of paste, close them up, and put the side 
that is closed next the tin they are to be baked up- 
on. Lay them separate, and bake them moderate- 
ly, and afterwards, when taken out, sift sugar over 
them. Some candied peel may be added, or a few 
di-ops of the essence of lemon. 
Almond cakes. 

Take six ounces of sweet almonds, half a pound 
of powdered sugar, seven eggs, six (junces of flour, 
find the raspings of four lemons. Pound the al- 
monds rery fine, wflli whole eggs, add tlw fuijar , 



and lemon raspings, and mix them well together in 
the mortar. Take it out, put it in a basin and stir 
it with the yolks of eggs, till it is as white as a 
sponge paste; beat up the whiles of the 2ggs to » 
strong snow, mix them very light with the paste, 
then take the flour and mix it as light as possible; 
on this the goodness of the paste ])rincipally de- 
pends, as it is impossible to make a good cake with 
a heavy paste; butter the mould, and bake in a 
slack oven for an hour, with ten sheets of paper 
under it and one on the top. 

Plain gingerbread. 

IVIix three pounds of flour with four ounces of 
moist sugar, half an ounce of powdered ginger, ami 
one pound and aquarter of warm treacle; meltiialf 
a pound of fresh butter in it; put it to the flour and 
make it a j)aste; then form it into nuts or cakes, or 
bake it in one cake. 

Another method. — Mix six pounds of flour with 
two ounces of caraway seeds, two ounces of ground 
ginger, two ounces of candied orange ])eel, the 
same of candied lemon peel cut in pieces, a little 
salt, and six ounces of moist sugar; melt one pound 
of fresh butter in about half a pint of milk, pour it 
by degrees into four pounds of treacle, stir it well 
together, and add it, a little at a time, to the flour; 
mix it tlioroughly; make it ir.to a paste; roll it out 
rather thin, and cut into cakes with the top of a 
dredger or wine glass; put them on floured tins, 
and bake them in rather a brisk oven. 
Cream cakes. 

Beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth, stir 
it gently with a spoon lest the froth should fall, and 
to every white of an egg grate the rinds of two le- 
mons; shake in gently a spoonful of double refined 
sugar sifted fine, lay a wet sheet of yiaper on a tin, 
and witli a spoon drop the froth in little lumps on 
it near each other. Sift a good quantity of sugar 
over them, set them in the oven after the bread is 
out, and close up the mouth of it, which will occa- 
sion the froth to rise. As soon as they are colour- 
ed they will be sufficiently baked; lay them by two 
bottoms together on a sieve, and dry them in u cool 
oven. 

Crumpets. 

Set 2 lbs. of flour with a little salt before the fire 
till quite warm; then mix it with warm milk and 
water till it is as stiff' as it can be stirred; let the 
milk be as warm as it can be borne with the fin- 
ger, put a cupful of this witii 3 eggs well beaten, 
and mixed with 3 spoonsful of very thick yeast; 
then put this to the batter and beat them all well 
together in a large pan or bowl, add as much milk 
and water as will make it into a thick batter; cover 
it close and put it before the fii-e to rise; put a bit 
of butter in a piece of thin muslin, tie it up, and 
rub it lightly over the iron hearth or frying pan; 
then pour on a suflicient quantity of batter at a 
time to make one crumpet; let it do slowl)', and it 
will be very light. Bake them all the same way. 
They should not be brown, but of a fine yellow. 
jilujins. 

Mix a quartern of fine flour, lA pints of ■wana 
milk and water, with ^ of a pint ot good yeast, and 
a little salt; stir them together for a quarter of an 
hour, then strain the liquor into a quarter of a peck 
of fine flour; mix the dough well and set it to rise 
for an hour, then roll it up and pull it into small 
pieces, make them \qi in the hand like balls and 
lay a flannel over them while rolling, to keep them 
warm. The dougli should be closely covered up 
the whole time; when the whole is rolled into balls, 
t!ie first that are made will be ready for baking. 
Wlien they are spread out in the right form for 
muffins, lay tiiem on tins and bake them, and as the 
bottoms begin to change coioiu- turn ttu;m on Ujts 
other side. 



PASTRY, &c. 



179 



Common hurts. 

Hub four ounces of butter into two pounds of 
flour, a little salt, four ounces of suo:ar, h dessert 
spooni'ul of caraways, and a tea-spoonful of ginger; 
j)ut some warm milk or cream to four table spoons- 
ful of yeast; mix all togetber into a paste, but not 
too stiff; cover it over and set it before the fire an 
hour to rise, then make it into buns, put them on a 
tin, set them before the fire for a quarter of an 
liour, cover over with flannel, then brush llien^, 
■with veiy warm milk and bake them of a nice 
brown in a moderate oven. 

Cross drnis. 

Put 2^ lbs. of fine tlnur into a wooden howl, and 
S"t it before the fire to warm; tiien add ^ a lb. of 
sifted sugar, some coriander seed, cinnamon and 
mace powdered fine; melt ^ lb. of butter in half a 
j)int of milk; when it is as warm as it can bear the 
linger, mix with it three table spoonsful of very 
thick yeast, and a little salt; put it to the flour, 
mix it to a ])Mste, and make the buns as directed in 
the last receipt. Put a cross on the top, not very 
deep. 

Busks. 

Beat up seven eggs, mix them with half a pint 
of warm new milk, in which a quarter of a pound 
of butter has been melted, add a ([uarter of a pint 
of yeast, and three ounces of sugar; put them gra- 
dually into as much flour as will make a liglit paste 
nearly as thin as batter; let it rise before the fire 
half an houi-, add more flour to make it a little 
stiller, work it well and divide it into small loaves, 
or cakes, about five or six inches wide, and flatten 
them. When baked and cold put them in the oven 
to brown a little. These cakes when first baked 
are very good buttered for tea, if they are made 
with caraway seeds they eat very nice cold. 
Orange ciistards. 

]]oiI very tender tiie rind of half a Seville 
orange, and beat it in a mortar until it is very fine; 
put to it a spoonful of the best i)rand3% the juice of 
a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the 
yolk of four eggs, lleat them all together for ten 
minutes, and tlien pour in by degrees a pint of 
boiling cream; beat them until cold, then put them 
in custard cups, in a dish of hot water; let them 
stand till they are set, then take them out and stick 
]>reserved orange peel on tlie top; this forms a fine 
flavoured dish, and may be served up hot or colJ. 
Baked custards. 

Boil a pint of cream with some mace and cinna- 
mon, and when it is cold, take four yolks of eggs, 
a little rose \vater, sack, nutmeg, and sugar, to 
taste; mix them well and bake them. 
JRice custards. 

Put ?. blade of mace, and. a quartered nutmeg in- 
to a quart of cream; boil and strain it, and add to 
it some boiled rice and a little brandy. Sweeten 
it to taste, stir it till it thickens, and serve it up in 
cups or in a dish; it may be used either hot or 
cold. 

Almond aistards. 

Blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, beat 
them very fine, and then put them into a pint of 
cream, with two spoonsful of rose water; sweeten 
it, and put in the yolks of foiu" eggs; stir them well 
together till it becomes tliick, and then pour it into 
cups. 

Lemon aistards. 

Take half a pound of double refined sugar, the 
juice of two lemons, the rind of one pared very 
tiiin, the inne? rind of one boiled tender and rub- 
bed througli a sieve, and a pint of white wine; boil 
tliem for some time, then take out the peel and a 
little of the liquor; strain them into the dish, stir 
tltcm well together aud set them to cool. 



To make almond tarts. 
Blanch and beatfine some almonds, with a little 
white wine and some sugar (a pound of sugar to a 
pound of almonds), grated bread, nutmeg, cream, 
and the juice of spinach, to colour the almonds. 
Bake it in a gentle oven, and when done, thicken 
with candied orange yjeel or citron. 
Green almond tarts. 
Pull the almonds from the tree before they shell, 
scrape oft" the down, and put them into a pan with 
cold spring water; then put them into a skillet 
with more spring water; set it on a slow fire, and 
let it remain till it simmers. Ciiange the water 
twice, and let them remain in the last till tender, 
then take them out and dry them well in a cloth. 
Make a syrup with double refined sugar, put them 
into it and let them simmer; do the same tiie next 
day, put tiiem into a stone jar, and cover them very 
close, for if the least air comes to them they will 
turn black; the yellower they are before they are 
taken out of the water, the greener they will be 
after tliey are done. Put them into the crust, co- 
ver lliem with syrup, lay on the lid, and hake them 
in a moucrate oven. 

Orange or lemon pie. 

Pub six oranges or lemons witli salt, and put 
them into water, with a handful of salt, for two 
days. Put every day fresh water witliout salt, for 
a fortnight. Boil tliem tender, cut them into half 
quarters, corner ways, quite tiiin; boil six pippins 
pared, cored, and quartered, in a pint of water till 
they break, then put the liquor to the oranges or 
lemons, with lialf tlie pulp of the pippins well bro- 
ken, and a pound of sugar; boil them a quarter of 
an hour, then \>ut them into a pot and squeeze in 
two spoonsful of the juice of eillier orange or le- 
mon, according to the kind of tart; put puff" paste, 
Very thin, into shallow patty-pans. Take a brush, 
and rub them over with melted butter, sift double 
refined sugar over tnem, which will form a pretty 
iceing, and bake them. 

Orange tarts. 

Grate a little of the outside of a Seville orange, 
squeeze the juice into a dish, put the peel into wa- 
ter, and change it often for four days, tlien put it 
into a saucepan of boiling water on the fire; change 
the water twice to take out the bitterness, and 
when tender, wipe and beat them fine in a mortar; 
boil their weight in double refined sugar into a sy- 
rup, and skim it, then put in the pulp and boil all 
together till clear; when cold put it into the tarts, 
and squeeze in the juice, and bake them in a quick 
oven. Conserve of orange makes good larts. 
Orange piiffs. 

Pare off" the rinds from Seville oranges, then rub 
them with salt, let them lie twenty-four hours in 
water, boil them in four changes of water, make the 
first salt, dra'in and beat them to a pulp; bruise in 
the pieces of all that are pared, make it veiy 
sweet with loaf sugar, and boil it till thick; let it 
stand till cold, and then ])Ut it into the paste. 
English macaroons. 

One pound of sweet almonds, 1 pound and a 
quarter of sugar, 6 whites of eggs, and the raspings 
of 2 lemons. Pound the almonds veiy fine with 6 
whites of eggs, feel the almonds, and if they are 
free from lumps, they will do; then add the pow- 
dered sugar, and mix it well with the lemon rasp- 
ings. Dress them in wafer paper of the required 
shape; bake them in a moderate heat, then let 
them stand till cold, cut the wafer paper round 
them, but leave it on the bottoms. 
Fancy biscuits. 

Take I pound of almonds, 1 pound of sugar, and 
some orange flower water. Pound the almonds 
veiy fine, and sprinkle ihcm with orang-; flower 



180 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



■water; when they are perfectly smooth to the touch, 
put them in a small pan, with flour sifted through a 
silk sieve; put the pan on a slow fire, and dry the 
paste till it does not stick to the fingers; move it 
■well from the bottom, to prevent its burning; then 
take it off, and roll it into small round fillets, to 
make knots, rings, &c., and cut it into various 
shapes; make an iceing of different colours, dip 
one side of them in it, and set them on wire grat- 
ings to drain. They may be varied by strewing 
overthem coloured pistachios, or coloured alnjonds, 
according to fancy. 

Sponge blsaiits. 

Beat the yolks of 12 eggs for half an hour; then 
put in 1^ pounds of beaten sifted sugar, and whisk 
It till it rises in bubbles;- beat the whites to a strong 
froth, and whisk them well with the sugar and 
yolks, work in 14 oz. of flour, with the rinds of 2 
lemons grated. Bake them in tin moulds buttered, 
in a quick oven, for an hour; before they are baked, 
sift a little fine sugar over them. 
Fine cheesecakes. 

Put a pint of warm cream into a saucepan over 
the fire, and when it is warm, add to it 5 cjuarts of 
new milk. Tiien put in some rennet, stir it, and 
■when it is turned, put the curd into a linen cloth 
or bag. Let the whey drain from it, but do not 
squeeze it too much. Put it into a mortar, and 
pound it as fine as butter. Add half a pound of 
sweet almonds blanched, half a pound of maca- 
roons, or Naples biscuit. Then add 9 well beaten 
yolks of eggs, a grated nutmeg, a little rose or 
orange water, and half a pound of fine sugar. Mix 
all well together. 

Almond cheesecakes. 

Put 4 ounces of blanched sweet almonds into 
cold water, and beat them in a marble mortar or 
"wooden bowl, with some rose water. Put to it 4 
ounces of sugar, and the yolks of 4 eggs beat fine. 
Work it till it becomes white and frothy, and then 
make a I'ich puff paste as foUo^ivs: Take half a 
pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound of butter; 
i-ub a little of tfie butter into the flour, mix ic stiff 
^v'nh a little cold water, and then rolj out the paste. 
Strew on a little flour, and layover it, in thin bits, 
one-third of the butter; throw a little more flour 
over the bottom, and do the like three different 
times. Put the paste into the tins, grate sugar over 
them, and bake them gently. 

Bread cheesecakes. 

Slice a penny loaf as thin as possible; pour on 
it a pint of boiling cream, and let it stand two 
hours. Beat together eight eggs, half a pound of 
butter, and a grated nutmeg: mix them into the 
cream and bread with half a pound of currants, 
•well washed and dried, and a spoonful of white 
■\vine or brandy. Bake tJiem in patty pans, on a 
i-aised crust. 

Jiice cheesecakes. 

Boil 4 ounces of rice till it is tender, and then 
put it into a sieve to drain; mix with it 4 eggs well 
beaten up, half a x)0und of butler, half a pint of 
•cream, 6 oz, sugar, a nutmeg grated, a glass of 
brandy or ratafia water. Beat them all well to- 
•gether, then put them into raised crusts, and bake 
them in a moderate oven. 

Apple cakes. 

Take half a quartern of dough, roll it out thin: 
spread equally over it 5 ounces each of cofiTee and 
sugar, a little nutmeg or allspice, and 2 ounces of 
butter; then fold and roll it again two or three 
times, to mix well the ingredients. Afterwards 
roll it out thin, and spread over it 4 rather large 
apples, pared, cored, and chopped small; fold it 
Up, and roll until mixed. Let it stand to rise after. 
Half a poEiad of butter may be added. 



Blancmange. 
Put into 1 quart of water an ounce of isinglass, 
and let it boil till it is reduced to a i)int; then put 
in the whites of 4 eggs, with 2 spoonsful of rice 
water, and sweeten it to taste. Run it through a 
jelly-bag, and then put to it 2 ounces of sweet, and 
I ounce of bitter almonds. Scald ihem rn the jelly, 
and then run them through a hair sieve. Put it 
into a china bowl, and the next day turn it out. 
Garnish with flowers or green leaves, and stick all 
over the top blanched almonds cut lengthways. 

Clear blancmange. 
. Skim off the fat, and strain a quart of strong 
calf's foot jelly, add to the same the whites of 4 
eggs well beaten; set it over the fire and stir it till 
it boils. Then pour it into a jelly hag, and run it 
through several times till it is clear. Beat an 
ounce each of sweet and bitter almonds to a paste 
with a spoonful of rose water strained through a 
cloth. Then mix it with the jelly, and add to it 3 
spoonsful of very good cream. Set it again over 
the fire, and stir it till it almost boils. Pour it into 
a bowl; then stir it often till almost cold: and then 
fill the moulds. 



CONFECTIONARY. 

To prepare sugar for candying. 

The first process is clanfying, which is done 
thus. Break the white of an egg into a preserving 
pan; put to it 4 quarts of water, and beat it with a 
whisk to a froth. Then put in 12 pounds of sugar, 
mix all together, and set it over the fire. When it 
boils put in a little cold water, and proceed as often 
as necessary, till the scum rises thick on the top. 
Then remove it from the fire, and when it is set- 
tled, take ofl:' the scum, and pass it through a strain- 
ing bag. If the sugar should not appear very fiae, 
boil it again before straining it. 
To candy sugar. 

After having completed the above first process, 
put what quantity is wanted over the fire, and boil 
It till it is smooth enough. This is known by dip- 
ping the skimmer into the sugar, and touching it 
between the forefinger and thumb; and immediately 
on opening them a small thread will be observed 
drawn between, which will crystallize and break, 
and remain in a drop on the thumb, which will be 
a sign of its gaining some degree of smoothness. 
Boil it again, and it will draw into a larger string; 
it is now called bloom sugar, and must be boiled 
longer than in the former process. To trj' its for- 
wardness, dip again the skimmer, shaking off the 
sugar into the pan; then blow with the mouth 
strongly through the holes, and if certain bladders 
go througli, it has acquired the second degree; to 
prove if the liquid has arrived at the state called 
feathered sugar, re-dip the skimmer, and shake it 
over tlie pan, then give it a sudden flirt behind, and 
the sugar will fly off" like feathers. 

It now arrives to tlie state called crackled sugar, 
to obtain which the mass must be boiled longer 
than in the preceding degree; then dip a stick in 
it, and put it directly into a pan of cold water, draw 
off the sugar which iiangs to the stick in the water, 
and if it turns hard and snaps, it has acquired the 
proper degree of crystallization; if otherwise, boil 
it again until it acquires that brittleness. 

The last stage of refining this article is called 
carmel s^igar, to obtain which it must be boiled 
longer than in any of the preceding methods;' prove 
it by dipping a stick first into the sugar, and then 
into cold water, and the moment it touches the lat- 
ter, it will, if matured, snap like glass. Be care- 
ful that the fire is not too fierce, as by flaming up 



t:0NFECT10XARY. 



181 



the sides of the pan, it will burn, discolour, and 
spoil the sugar. 

French method. — Put into a pan syrup enough of 
clai'ified sugar to fill the mould; boil it until it 
comes to tlie state called small feathei"; skim it 
well; take the pan from the fire, and pour it into 
a small quantity of spirit of wine sufficient to make 
it sparkle; let it rest till the skin, which is the 
candy, rises on the surface; take it off with a skim- 
mer, and pour it directly into the mould; which 
keep in the stove at 90° heat for 8 days: tlien strain 
the candy by a hole, slanting the mould on a bason 
or pan to receive the drainings; let it drain till it is 
perfectly dry, then loosen the paper by moistening 
it with warm water; warm it all round near the 
fire, and turn the candy by striking it hard on the 
table. Put it on a sieve in the stove to finish dry- 
ing it; but do not touch it while there, and keep 
up an ecjual heat, otherwise there will be only a 
mash instead of a candy. Spirit of wine will take 
off grease, and not affect the candy, as it soon eva- 
porates. 

To make barley siigar. 

Take a quantity of clarified sugar in that state, 
that on dipping the fingef into the pan the sugar 
•which adheres to it will break with a slight noise; 
this is called crack. When the sugar is near this, 
put in two or three drops of lemon juice, or a lit- 
tle vinegar to prevent its graining. When it has 
come to the crack take it off instantly, and dip the 
pan into cold water to prevent its burning; let it 
stand a little, and then pour it on a marble which 
must be previously rubbed with oil. Cut the sugar 
into small pieces, when it will be ready for use. 
One drop of citron will flavour a considerable 
quantity. 

Bon-bons. 

Provide leaden moulds, which must be of vari- 
rious shapes, and be oiled with oil of sweet al- 
monds. Take a quantity of brown sugar sj'rup in 
the proportion to their size, in that state called a 
bloiv, which may be known by dii)ping the skim- 
mer into the sugar, shaking it, and blowing through 
the holes, when parts of light may be seen; add a 
drop of any esteemed essence. If the bon-bons 
are preferred white, when tlie sugar has cooled a 
little, stir it round the pan till it grains, and sliines 
on the surface; then pour it into a funnel and fill 
the little moulds, when it will take a proper form 
and harden: as soc^, as it is cold take it from the 
moulds; dry it two or three days, and put it upon 
paper. If the bon-bons are required to be colour- 
ed, add the colour just as the sugar is ready to be 
taken off the fire. 

To candy ginger. 

Put 1 oz. of raee ginger grated fine, 1 lb. of loaf 
sugar beat fine, into a preserving pan, with as much 
water as will dissolve the sugar. Stir them well 
together over a slow fire till the sugar begins to 
boil. Then stir in another pound of sugar, beat 
fine, and keep stirring it till it grows thick. Then 
take i}; off the fire, and drop it in cakes upon earth- 
en dishes. Set them in a warm place to dry, when 
they will become hard and brittle, and look, white. 
To candy horehound. 

Boil it in water till the juice is extracted; then 
boil a sufficient quantity of sugar to a great height, 
and add the juice to it. Stir it with a spoon against 
the sides of the sugar pan, till it begins to grow 
thick, then pour it out into a paper case that is 
dusted with fine sugar, ami cut it into squares: dry 
the horehound, and put it into the sugar finely pow- 
dered and sifted. 

To make white sugar ca7idy. 

Sugar crystallized by the saturated syrup being 
left in a very warm place, from 90 to 100 degrees 
FaJirenheit, and the shooting promoted by placing 



sticks, or a net of threads at small distances from 
each other in the liquor, it is also deposited from 
compound syrup, and does not retain an)' of the 
foreign substances with wliich the syrup is loaded. 
To clarify loaf sugar. 

Break the same into a copper pan, which will 
hold l-3d more, put half a pint of water to each 
lb. of sugar, mix 1 white of an egg to every 6 lbs. ; 
when it rises in boiling, throw in a little cohl wa- 
ter, which must be kept ready in case it slioukl 
boil over; skim it the fourth time of I'ising, conti- 
nue to throw in a little cold water each time till the 
scum ceases to rise, and strain it through a sieve, 
clotli or flannel bag. Save the scum, which, when 
a certain quantity is taken oft", may be clarified. 
The latter skimming will do to add to fermented 
wines. 

To clarify coarse brown sugar. 

Put 50 pounds of coarse brown sugar into a pan, 
wliich will contain one-third more, pour in 20 pints 
of water, w-ell mixed with 5 whites of eggs; pound 
5 lbs. of small charcoal, mix it in the pan while on 
the fire, and boil it till it looks as black as ink. If 
it rises too fiist, add cold water, strain it through 
a bag, and though at first it will be black, continue 
to strain it until it becomes quite clear; which may 
be seen by putting tlie syrup in a glass. Put it 
back until it comes out as fine as clarified loaf su- 
gar. 

To improve and increase sugar. 

To 5 lbs. of coarse brown sugar, add 1 lb. ot 
flour, and there will be obtained 6 lbs. of sugar 
worth 10 per cent, more in colour and quality. 
Starch sugar. 

Mix 100 parts of starch with 200 of water, anil 
add to it gradually another 200 of water, previous- 
ly mixed with one of oil of vitriol, and brought to 
a boiling heat in a tinned copper vessel; keep the 
mixture boiling for tiiirty-six hours, and occasion- 
ally add water to keep up the original quantity, 
then add some powdered charcoal and also some 
chalk to get rid of the acid; strain and evaporate it 
by a gentle heat to the consistence of a syrup, and 
set by to crystallize. 

Birch sugar. 

Wound the trees in the spring of the year by bor- 
ing a hole under a large arm of the tree quite 
through the wood as far as the bark of the opposite 
side; collect the sap which flows from the wound, 
and evaporate it to a proper consistence: these are 
the native sugars of cold countries, and might be 
made in England for all the purposes of home con- 
sumption. 

To make pear sugar. 

It is obtained by expressing the juice, adding 
chalk to remove the superabundant acid, and eva- 
porating it to a due consistence; it does not crys- 
tallize, and is a kind of white treacle. One hun- 
dred weight of apples yields about 84 lbs. of this 
juice, which will produce nearly 12 lbs. of this 
substance. 

Grape sugar. 

The brown sugar obtained from grapes by the 
usual process, being previously freed from the 
acids and sulphate of lime that existed in the 
original juice, yields by refining 75 per cent, of a 
white granular sugar, Si of a kind of treacle with a 
little gum, and some malate of lime. 
I'o candy orange peel. 

Soak the peels in coid water, wliich change fre- 
quently till they lose their bitterness; then put them 
into syrup till they become soft and transparent. 
Then they are to be taken out and drained. 
Lemon peek 

This is made by boiling lemon peel with sugar, 
and then exposing to the air until the sugar crys- 
tallizes. 

Q 



182 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To colour candied sngar. 

Ited. — Boil an oz. ot" cochineal in half a pint of 
•water for 5 minutes, add an oz. of cream of tartar, 
Jialf an oz. of i)Oinuled alum, and boil them on a 
slow fire 10 minutes; if it shows the colour clear on 
white paper, it is sufficient. Add. 2 oz. of sugar, 
and bottle it for use. 

Blue. — Put a little warm water on a plate, and 
ruban indigo-stone in it till the colour has come 
to tlie tint required. 

Yellow. — Rub with some water a little gambo2;e 
on a Yjlate; or infuse tiie lieart of a yellow lily 
flower wiih milk-warm water. 

Green. — Boil the leaves of spinach about a mi- 
nute in a little water, and when strained bottle tiie 
liquor for use. — In colouring refine*4 sugars, taste 
and fancy must guide. 

'I'o make devices in stigar. 

Steep gum tragacanth in i-ose-water, and with 
double refined sugar make it into a paste, and co- 
lour and mould it to fancy. 

U'hipt si/Uabiib. 

Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of a 
7emon, and put it into a pint of thick cream, and 
sweeten it to taste. Squeeze in the juice of a 
lemon, and add a glass of Madeira wine, or French 
brandy. Mill it to a froth with a chocolate mill, 
take off the froth as it rises, and lay it in a hair 
sieve. Fill one half of the glass with red wine, 
♦.hen lay tlie froth as iiigh as possible, but take care 
that it is well drained in tlie sieve, otherwise it 
■tt'ill mix with the wine, and the svllabub be spoiled. 
Solid s-idhib-db. 

To a quart of i-ich cream put a quart of white 
wine, the juice of two lemons, with tlie rind of one 
grated, and sweeten it to taste. Whip it up well 
and take off the froth as it rises. Put it upon a 
hair sieve, and let it stantl in a cool place till the 
jiext day. Tlien half fift the glasses with the scum, 
and heap up the froth as high as possible. The 
bottom will look clear and it will keep several days. 
Snoiu balls. 

Pare and take out the cores of five large baking 
apples, and fill the holes with orange or quince mar- 
malade. Then take some good hot paste, roll the 
apples in it, and make the crust of an equal thick- 
ness; put them in a tin dripping pan, bake them in 
a moderate oven, and when taken out, make iceing 
for them; let tiie same be a A of an inch thick, and 
set them a good distance from the fire until they 
become hardened, but be cautious that they are 
not browned. 

Capillaire. 

iSIix six eggs well beat up, with fourteen pounds 
of loaf sugar, and 3 pounds of coarse sugar. Put 
them into three quarts of water, boil it twice, skim 
it well, and add a ^ of a pint of orange flower wa- 
ter; strain it through a jdly-bag, and put it into 
bottles for use. A spoonful or two of this syrup 
put into a draught of either cold or warm water, 
makes it drink exceedingly pleasant. 

To make confectionart/ drops. 

Take double refined sugar, pound and sift it 
through a hair sieve, not too iine; and then sift it 
through a silk sieve, to take out all the fine dust, 
■which would destroy the beauty of the drop. Put 
tlie sugar into a clean pan, and moisten it with any 
favourite aromatic; if rose-water, pour it in slowly, 
stirring it with a paddle, which the sugar will fall 
from, as soon as it is moist enough, without stick- 
ing. Colour it with a small quantity of liquid car- 
mine, or any other colour, ground fine. Take a 
small pan with a lip, fill it tiirec parts with paste, 
place it on a small stove, the half hole being of the 
size of the pan, and stir the sugar with a little ivoiy 
or bone handle, until it becomes liquid. When it 
almost boils, take it from tiie fire and continue to 



stir it; if it be too moist take a little of the pow- 
dered sngar, and add a spoonful to the paste, and 
stir it till it is of such a consistence as to run with- 
out too much extension. Have a tin plate, very 
clean and smooth; take the little pan in the left 
hand, and hold in the right a bit of iron, copper or 
silver wire, four inches long, to taive off the drop 
from the lip of the pan, and let it fall regidarly on 
the tin plate; two hours afterwards take oft' the 
drops with the blade of a knife. 
Chocolate drops. 

Scrape the chocolate to powder, and put an ounce 
to each pound of sugar; moisten the paste with 
clear water, work it as above, only take care to use 
all the paste prepared, as, if it be put on the fire 
a s.-cond time, it greases, and the drop is not of the 
proper thickness. 

Orange flo-zver drops. 

These are made as the sugar drops, only using 
orange flower water; or instead of it, use the es- 
sence of naroli, which is the essential oil of that 
flower. 

Coffee drops. 

An ounce of coftee to a pound of sugar will form 
a strong decoction; when cleared, use it to mois- 
ten the sugar, and then make the drops as above. 
Pepperinint drops. 

The only requisites to make these are, extreme 
cleanliness, the finest sugar, and a few drops of the 
essence of peppermint. 

Clove drops. 

Tliese are made as the cinnamon drops, the 
cloves being pounded, or the essence used. Good 
cloves should be black, heavy, of a pungent smell, 
hot to the taste, and full of oil. 
Ginger drops. 

Pound and sift through a silk sieve the required 
quantity of ginger, according to the strength want- 
ed, and add it to the sugar with clear water. Cliina 
ginger is the best, being aromatic as well as hot 
and sharp tasted. 

Liquorice lozenges. 

Take of extract of liquorice, double refined sn- 
gar, each 10 oz. — iragacanth, powdered, 3 oz. 
Powder them thoroughly, and make them into lo- 
zenges with rose-water. — These are agreeable pec- 
torals, and maybe used- at pleasiire in tickling 
coughs. The above receipt is the easiest and best 
mode of making these lozenges. Refined extract 
of liquorice should be used; and it is easily pow- 
dered in the cold, after it has been laid for some 
days in a dry and rather warm place. 
Retract of liqnorice. 

The liquorice root is to be boiled in eight times 
its weight of water, to one half; the liquor is then 
to be expressed, and after the loeces have subsided, 
to be filtered; it is then to be evaporated, with a 
heat between 200° and 212°, until it becomes thick- 
ish; and, lastly, it is to be evaporated with a heat 
less than 200°, and frequently stirred, until it ac- 
quires a consistence proper for forming pills. This 
is made into little pastils, or flat cakes, often 
bearing the impression of the places where they 
are made: and a bit now and then put into the 
mouth takes oft' the tickling of a cough. It should 
be sucked to make it pleasant, as much of th<i juice 
taken at a time is unpleasant. 

'J prepare liquonce jidce. 

Take up the roots in July; clean them perfectly 
as soon as out of the earth, then hang them up ia 
the air, till nearly dry; after this cut them into thin 
slices, and boil them in water till the decoction is 
extremely strong; then press it hard out to obtain 
all the juice from the roots. This decoction is left 
to settle a little, and when it has deposited its 
coarser parts, pour it oft" into vessels, evaporate it 
over a fire, strong first, but mild afterwards, till it 



CONFECTIONARY. 



183 



ftecomes of a thick consistence; then let the fire go j pure white, ponr it into a swan-skin jelly hag over 



out, and when the extract is cool take out large 
parcels of it at a time, and work them well witii 
the hands, forming them into cylindric masses, 
which cut into sucli lengths as required, roll them 
over half-dried bay leaves, which adhere to their 
surfaces, and leave them exposed to the sun, till 
perfectly dried. Great nicety is to be observed at 
the end of the evaporation, to get tiie extract to a 
prc];;er consistence without lettitig it burn. 
Refined liquorice. 

That description of article which is vended in 
thin, rounded, and glazed pieces, about the tiiick- 
iiess of a crow's quill, is entirely prepared in this 
country. Tiie wliole process consists in evaporat- 
ing the liquorice-ball anew, and purifying it by 
rest, with tlie help of isinglass, kc. 

To candy orange marmalade. 

Cut the clearest Seville oranges into two, take 
out all the juice and pulp into a basin, and pick all 
the skins and seeds out of it. Boil tlie rinds in hard 
water till tiiey become tend-er, and change the wa- 
ter two or llu-ce times while they are boiling. 
Then pound them in a marble mortar, and add to 
it the juice and pidp; put them next into a pre- 
serving pan with double their weight in loaf sugar, 
and set it over a slow fire. Boil it rather more than 
half an hour, put it into pots; cover it with brandy 
paper, and tie it close down. 

To make transparent marmalade. 

Cut very pale Seville oranges into quarters; take 
out the pulp, put it into a basin, and pick out tiie 
skins and seeds. Put the peels into a little salt 
and water, and let them stand all night, then boil 
them in a good quantity of spring water until they 
are tender; cut them in very thin slices, and put 
them into tlie pulp. To every pound of marmalade 
put one pound and a half of double refined beaten 
sugar; boil them together gently for 20 minutes; 
if they are not transparent, boil them a few mi- 
nutes longer. Stir it gently all the time, and take 
care not to break the slices. When it is cold, put 
it into jelly and sweetmeat glasses tied down tight. 
JBarberry marmalade. 

Mash the barberries in a little water, on a warm 
Etov§; pass tliem tlirough a hair sieve with a pad- 
dle; weigh the pulp and ])ut it back on the fire; 
reduce it to one half, clarify a pound of sugar and, 
boil it well; put in the pulp, and boil it together 
for a few minutes. 

Quince marmalade. 

Take quinces that are quite ripe, pare and cut 
them in quarters, lake out the cores, put them in 
a stew-pan with spring watei', nearly enough to 
cover them, keep them closely covered and let 
them stew gently till they are quite soft and red, 
then mash and rub them through a hair sieve. 
Put them in a pan over a gentle fire, with as much 
thick clarified sugar as tlie weight of the quinces; 
boil thera an hour and stir the wiiole time with a 
wooden spoon to prevent its sticking: put it into 
pots and when cold tie them down. 
Scotch marmalade. 

Take of the juice of Seville oranges, 2 pints, — 
yellow honej', i lbs. Boil to a proper consistence. 
Hartshorn jelly. 

Boil half a pound of hartshorn in three quarts of 
water over a gentle fire till it becomes a jelly; when 
a little hangs on a spoon it is done enough. Strain 
it hot, put it into a well tinned saucepan, and add 
to it half a pint of Rhenisii wine, and a quarter of 
a pound of loaf sugar. Beat the whites of four eggs 
or more to a froth, stir it sufficiently for the whiles 
to mix well with the jeJly, and pour it in as if cool- 
ing it. Boil it two or three minutes, then put in 
the juice of four lemons, and let it l)oil two mi- 
nutes longer. When it is finely curdled and of a 



a China basin, and pour it back again until it be- 
comes as clear as rock-water; set a very clean Chi- 
na basin under, till the glasses, put some thin le- 
mond rind into llie basin, and when tlie jelly is all 
run out of the bag, with a clean spoon fill the rest 
of the glasses, and they will look of a fine amber 
colour. Put in lemon and sugar agreeable to the 
palate. 

Whipt cream. 

Mix the whites of eight eggs, a quart of thick , 
cream, and half a pint of sack, sweeten them to 
taste with double refined sugar. It may be per- 
fumed with a little musk or ambergris tied in a 
rag and steeped in a little cream. Whip itupwitlx 
a wiiisk, and some lemon-peel tied in the middle 
of the wliisk. Then lay the frotli witli a spoon in 
the glasses or basins. 

Pistachio cream. 

Beat half a pound of pistachio nut kernels in a 
mortar with a spoonful of brandy. Put them into 
a pan with a pint of good cream, and the yolks of 
two eggs beaten fine. Stir it gently over the fire 
till it grows thick, and then put it into a China 
soup plate. When it is cold stick it over with 
small pieces of the nuts, and send it to table. 
Ice cream. 

To a pound of any preserved fruit add a quart 
of good cream, squeeze the juice of two lemnns 
into it and some sugar to taste. Let tlie wiiole be 
rubbed through a fine" hair sieve, and if raspberry, 
strawberry, or any red fruit, add a little cochineal 
to heighten tlie colour; have tiie freezing pot nice 
and clean; put the cream into it and cover it; then 
\t\\i it into the tub with ice beat small, and some 
salt; turn the freezing pot quick, and as the cream 
sticks to the sides, scrape it down with an ice 
spoon, and so on till it is frozen. The more the 
cream is worked to the side with the spoon, the 
smoother and better flavoured it will be. After it 
is well frozen, take it out and put it into ice-shape* 
with salt and ice; then cai-efully wash the shape? 
for fear of any salt adliering to them; dip them in 
lukewarm water and send them to table. 

Another method. — Bruise two pottles of straw . 
berries in a basin with half a pint of good cream_, 
a little currant jelly, and some cold clarified sugar, 
rub this well tiirough the tammy, and put it in an 
ice pot well covered; then set it in a tub of broken 
ice with plenty of salt; when it grows thick about 
the sides, stir it willi a spoon, and cover it close 
again till it is perfectly frozen through; cover it 
well with ice and salt both under and over, and 
when it is frozen change it into a mould and cover 
well wifli ice. Sweeten a little plain cream with 
sugar and orange flower water, and treat it the 
same; likewise any other fruit, without cream, may 
be mixed as above. This is called water ice. 
Currant jelly. 

Take the juice of red currants, 1 lb. sugar, 6 07. 
Boil down. 

Another method. — Take the juice of red currants, 
add white sugar, equal quantities. 

Stir it geniiy and smootlily for three hours, put 
it into glasses, and in three days it will concrete 
into a firm jelly. 

Black currant jelly. 

Put lo ten quarts of ripe dry black cuiTants, one 
quart of water; put them in a large stew-pot, tie 
paper close over tliem, and set lliem for two hours 
in a cool oven. Squeeze them through a fine cloth, 
and add to every quart of juice a pound and a half 
of loaf sugar broken into small pieces. Stir it till 
the sugar is melted; when it boils, skim it quite 
clean. Boil it pretty quick over a clear fire, till it 
jtUies, which is known by dipping a skimmer in-» 
to the jelly and holding it in the aivj when it hangs 



184 



UXIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



to the spoon in a drop, it is done. If the jelly is 
boiled too Ions;, it will lose its flavour and shrink 
•very much. Pour it into pots, cover them with 
Lrandy papers, and keep them in a dry place, lied 
and white jellies are made in the same way. 
.ftijple jeUy. 

Take of apple juice strained, 4 lbs. sugar, 1 lb. 
Boil to a jelly. ' 

Slravjberry jelly. 

Take of the juice of strawberries, 4 lbs. sugar, 
2 lbs. Boil down. 

Gooseberry jelly. 

Dissolve su2;ar in about half its weight of water, 
and boil: it will be nearly snlid when cold; to this 
sjTup add an equal weiglit of gooseberry juice, and 
give it a boil, but not long, for otherwise it will 
not fix. 

Raspberry £ream. 

Rub a quart of raspberries through a hair sieve, 
and take out the seeds, and mix it well with cream; 
sweeten it with sugar to your taste, then jiut it in- 
to a stone jug, and raise a froth with a chocolate 
mill. As the frotli rises, take it off with a spoon, 
and lay it upon a hair sieve. When there is as 
much froth as wanted, put what cream remains in 
a deep Cliina dish, and pour the frothed cream up- 
on it, as high as it w ill lie on.' 

Raspberry jam. 

Alash a quantity cf fine ripe dry raspberries, 
strew on them their own weight of loaf sugar, and 
half their weight of w bite currant juice. Boil 
them half an liour over a clear slow fire, skim them 
well, and put tliem into pots or glasses; tie them 
down with brandy papers, and keep them dry. 
Strew on the sugar as quick as possible after the 
berries are gathered, and in order to preserve their 
flavour they must not stand long before boiling 
tiiem. 

Strawberry jam. 

Bruise very fine some scarlet strawberries, ga- 
thered when quite ripe, and put to them a little juice 
of red currants. Beat and sift their weight in su- 
gar, strew it over tiiem, and put them into a pre- 
serving pan. Set them over a clear slow fire, skim 
them, then boil them 20 minutes, and put them 
into glasses, 

Raspberry paste. 

Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half and 
put the juice to tiie other half; boil them acjuarter 
of an hour, put to them a pint of red currant juice, 
and let ihein boil all together, till the raspberries 
are done enough. Then put I3 lbs. of double re- 
fined sugar into a clean pan, with as much water as 
will dissolve it, boil it to a sugar again; then put 
in the raspberries and juice, scald and pour them 
into glasses. Put them into a stove to dry, and 
turn them when necessary. 

Damson cheese. 

Boil the fruit in a sufficient quantity of water to 
cover it; strain the pulp through a very coarse 
sieve; to each lb. add 4 oz. of sugar. Boil it till 
h begins to candy on the sides, then pour it into 
tin moulds. Other kinds of plums may be treated 
in the same way, as also cherries, and several kinds 
of fruit. 

Jin omelette soitjjie. 

Put 2 oz. of the powder of ciiesnuts into a skil- 
let, then add 2 yolks of new laid eggs, and dilute 
the whole wiili a little cream, or even a little wa- 
ter; wjien this is done, and the ingredientsweil mix- 
ed, leaving no lumps, add a bit of the best fresh 
butter, about the size of an egg, and an equal 
quantity of powdered sugar; then put the skillet 
on tlie fire, and keep stirring the contents; when 
the cream is fixed and thick enough to ad- 
here to the spoon, let it bubble up once or t\vi"e, 
and tiike It from the fire; then add a third white of 



an e^^ to those you have already set aside, and 
whip them to the consistency of snow; then amal- 
gamate the whipped whites of eggs and the cream, 
stirring them with a light and equal hand, pour the 
contents into a deep dish, sift over with double re- 
fined sugar, and place tiie dish on a stove, with a 
fire over it as well as under, and in a(iuarter of an 
hour the cream will rise like an oinelctte soxijjle; as 
soon as it rises about 4 inches, it is fit to serve up. 
Orgeat paste. 

Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of 
sweet, and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds; 
pound them in a mortar, and wet them sufficiently 
with orange flower water, that they may not oil. 
When they are pounded fine, add three quarters of 
a pound of fine powdered sugar to them, and mix 
the whole in a stiff' paste, which put into pods for 
use. It will keep six months; wiien wanted to 
be used, take a piece about the size of an egg, and 
mix it with half a pint of water, and squeeze it 
through a napkin. 

Rate de Guimaiive. 

Take of decoction of marshmallow roots, 4 oz. 
water, 1 gallon. Boil 4 pints and strain; then add 
gum arable, ^ a lb. refined sugar, 2 lbs. Evaporate 
to an extract, then take from the fire, stir it quick- 
ly with the whites of 12 eggs, previously beaten to 
a froth; then add, while stirring, ^ oz. of orange- 
flower water. 

Another. — Take of very white gum arabic, and 
wdiite sugar, each 2^ lbs. wiih a sufficient quantity 
of boiling water. Dissolve, strain, and evaporate 
without boiling, to the consistence of honey: beat 
up the white of six eggs with four drachms of 
oiange-flower water, which mix grachially with the 
paste, and evaporate over a slow fii'e, stirring it 
continually till it will not stick to the fingers; it 
should be very light, spongy, and extremely white. 
Rale de jujubes. 

Take of raisins stoned, 1 lb. — currants picked, 
jujubes, opened, each 4 oz. — water, a sufficient 
quantit}'. Boil; strain with expression, add sugar, 
2^ lbs. gum arabic, 2J lbs. previously made into a 
mucilage with some water, and strain; evaporate 
gently, poiu' into moulds, finish by drying in a 
stove, and tlien divide it. 



PICKLING. 



This branch of domestic economy comprises a 
great variety of articles, which are essentially ne- 
cessary to the convenience of families. It is at the 
same time too prevalent a practice to make use ot 
brass utensils to give pickle a fine colour. Ibis 
pernicious custom is easily avoiiled b)' heating the 
liquor, and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth 
before it is poured upon the pickle. Stone jars 
are the best adapted for sound keeping. Pickles 
siiould never be b.andled with the fingers, but by a 
spoon kept for the purpose. 

To pickle oniojis. 

Put a sufficient quantity into salt and water for 
nine days, observing to change the water every day; 
next put them into jars and pour fresh boiling salt 
and water over them, cover them close up till they 
are cold, then make a second decoction of salt and 
water, and pour it on boiling. When it is cold, 
drain the onions on a hair sieve, and put them into 
wide-mouthed bottles; fill them up with distilled 
vinegar; put into every bottle a slice or two of gin- 
ger, a blade of mace, and a tea-s[)Oontul of sweet 
oil; which will keep the onions white. Cork them 
well up iu a dry place. 

To make saur kraut. 

Take a large stiong wooden vessel, or cask, re- 
sembling a salt-beef cask, and capable of contain- 



PICKLING. 



185 



ing as much as is sufficient for the winter's con- 
sumption of a family. Gradually break down or 
chop the cabbages (deprived of outside green 
leaves), into very small pieces; begin with one nr 
two cabbages at the bottom of the cask, and add 
others at intervals, pressing them by means of a 
■wooden spade against the side of the cask, until it 
is full. Then place a heavy weight upon the top 
of it, and allow it to stand near to a warm place, for 
four or five days. By this time it will have under- 
gone fermentation, and be ready for use. Whilst 
tiie cabbages are passing through the process of 
fermentation, a very disagreeable, fetid, acid smell 
is exhaled from them; now I'emove the cask to a 
cool situation, and, keep it always covered up. 
Strew aniseeds among the layers of the cabbages 
during its preparation, which communicates a pe- 
culiar flavour to tlie saurkiaut at an after period. 

In boiling it for the table, two hours are the pe- 
riod for it to be on the fire. It forms an ex(;ellent 
nutritious and antiscorbutic food for winter use. 
PeccalilU — Indian meihod. 

This consists of all kinds of pickles mixed and 
put into one large jar — girkins, sliced cucumbers, 
button onions, cauliflowers, broken in pieces. Salt 
them, or put them in a large hair sieve in the sun 
to dry for three days, then scald them in vinegar a 
few minutes; when cold put them together. Cut 
a large white cabbage in quarters, with the outside 
leaves taken off and cut fine, salt it, and put it in 
the sun to dry for three or four days; then scald it 
in vinegar, the same as cauliflower, carrots, three 

Earts, boiled in vinegar and a little bay salt. French 
eans, rack samphire, reddish pods, and naastur- 
chions, all go through the same process as girkins, 
capsicums. Sec. To one gallon of vinegar put four 
ounces of ginger bruised, two ounces of whole 
white pepper, two ounces of allspice, half an ounce 
of chillies bruised, four oiuices of turmeric, one 
pound of the best mustard, half a pound of sliallots, 
one ounce of garlic, and half a pound of bay salt. 
The vinegar, spice, and other ingredients, except 
the mustard, must boil half an hour; then strain it 
into a pan, put the mustard into a large basin, with 
a little vinegar; mix it quite fine and free from 
lumps, tlien add more; when well mixed put it to 
the vinegar just strained oft", and when quite cold 
put the pickles into a large pan, and the liquor over 
them; stir them repeatedly, so as to mix them all; 
fin.ally, put them into ajar, and tie them over first 
with a bladder, and afterwards with leather. The 
capsicums want no preparation. 

I'o pickle samphire. 
Put what quantity wanted into a clean pan, throw 
over it two or three handsful of salt, and cover it 
with spring water for twenty-four hours; next put 
It into a clean saucepan, throw in a handful of salt, 
and cover it with good vinegar. Close the pan 
tight, set it over a slow fire, and let it stand till 
the samphire is green and crisp; then take it off 
instantly, for should ft remain till it is soft, it will 
be totally spoiled. Put it into the pickling pot 
and cover it close, when it is quite cold tie it down 
with a bladder and leather, and set it by for use. 
Samphire rriay be preserved all the year by keeji- 
ing it in a ver)' strong brine of salt and water, and 
just before using it put it for a few minutes into 
some of the best vinegar, 

JMush7-ooms. 
Put the smallest that can be got into spring wa- 
ter, and rub them with a piece of new flannel dip- 
ped in salt. Throw them into cold watei- as they 
are cleaned, which will make them keep tlieir co- 
lour: next put them into a saucepan with a handful 
of salt upon them. Cover them close, and set 
them over the fire four or five minutes, or till the 
heat d^avvs the liquor from them; next lay them be- 



twixt two diy cloths till they are cold; put them 
into glass bottles and fill them up with distilled vi- 
negar, with a blade of mace and a tea-spoonful of 
sweet oil into every bottle; cork them up close and 
set them in a dry cool place; as a substitute for dis- 
tilled vinegar, use white wine vinegai\ or ale. 
Allegar will do, but it must be boiled with a little 
mace, salt, and afew slices of ginger, and itmusthe 
quite cold before it is poured upon the mush- 
rooms. 

Another method. — Bruise a quantity of well 
grown flaps of mushrooms with the hands, and 
then strew a fair proportion of salt over them; let 
them stand .all night, and the next day put them 
into stewpans; set them in a quick oven for 12 
hours, and strain them through a hair sieve. To 
every gallon of liquor put of cloves, Jamaica black 
pepper, and ginger, one ounce each, ^ a lb. of com- 
mon salt; set it on a slow fire, and let it boil till 
half the liquor is wasted; then put it into a clean 
pot, and when cold bottle it for use. 
Cucumbers. 

Let them be as free from spots as possible; take 
the smallest that can be got, put them into strong 
salt and water for nine days, till they become yel- 
low; stir them at least twice a day; siiould they be- 
come perfectly yellow, pour the water oft' and co- 
vei' them with plenty of vine leaves. Set the water 
over the fire, and when it boils, pour it over them, 
and set them upon the earth to keep warm. When 
the water is almost cold make it boil again, and 
pour it upon them; proceed thus till they are of a 
fine green, which tliey will be in four or five 
times; keep them well covered with vine leaves, 
with a cloth and dish over the top to keep in the 
steam, which will help to green them. 

When they are greened put them in a hair sieve 
to drain, and then to eveiy two quarts of white 
wine vinegar put half an ounce of mace, ten or 
twelve cloves, an ounce of ginger, cut into slices, 
an ounce of black pepper, and a handful of salt. 
Boil them all together, for five minutes; pour it hot 
on the pickles, and lie them down for use. They 
may also be pickled with ale, ale vinegar, or dis- 
tilled vinegar, and adding three or four cloves of 
garlic and shallots. 

Walnuts luhite. 

Pare green walnuts very thin till the white ap- 
pears, then throw them into spring water with a 
handful of salt, keep them under water six hours, 
then put them into a stew-pan to simmer five mi- 
nutes, but do not let them boil; take them out and 
put them in cold water and salt; they must be kept 
quite under the water with a board, otherwise they- 
will not pickle white; then lay them on a cloth and 
cover them with another to diy; carefully rub 
them with a soft cloth, and put them into the jar, 
with some blades of mace and nutmeg sliced thin. 
Mi.x the spice between the nuts and pour distilled 
vinegar over them; when the jar is full of nuts pour 
mutton fat over them, and tie them close dowQ 
with a bladder and leather to keep out the air. 
Artificial anchovies. 

To a peck of sprats put two pounds of salt, three 
ounces of bay salt, one pound of salt-petre, two 
ounces of prunella, and a few grains of cochineal; 
pound all in a mortar, put into a stone pan first a 
layer of sprats and then one of tlie compound, and 
so on alternately to the top. Press them down 
hard; cover them dose for six months, and they 
will be fit for use, and will really produce a most 
excellent flavoured sauce. 

Salmon. 

Boil the fish gently till done, and then take it up, 
strain the liquor, add bay leaves, pepper corns, 
and salt; give these a boil, and when cold add the 
best vinegar to them; then put the whole sutiTicicut- 

W is 



186 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



iy over the fisli to cover it, and let it remain a 
month at least. 

To preserve fish by sit^ar. 

Fish may be preserved in a dry state, and per- 
fectly fresh, by means of siiirar alone, and even 
with a very small quantity of it. 

Fresii fish may be kept in that state for some 
da)'s, so as to be as good when boiled as if just 
«aught. If dried, and kept free from mouldiucss, 
there seems no limit to their preservation; and 
they are much better in this way than when salted. 
The sugar gives no disagreeable taste. 

This process is particularly valuable in making 
. ■what is called kippereil salmon; and the fisli pre- 
served ill this manner are far superior in quality 
and flavour to those which are salted or smoked. 
If desired, as mtich salt may be used as to give the 
taste that may be required; but this substance does 
tiot conduce to their preservation. 

In the preparation it is barely necessary to open 
the fisli, and to apply the sugar to the muscular 
parts, j)lating it in a horizontal position for 2 or 3 
<lay^, that this substance may penetrate. After this 
it may be dried; and it is only further necessary to 
■^vipe and ventilate it occasionally, to prevent raoul- 
diness. 

A table spoonful of brown sugar Is sufficient in 
this manner for a salmon of 5 or 6 pounds weight; 
and if salt is desired, a tea-spoonful or more may 
be added. Saltpetre may be used instead, in the 
same proportion, if it is desired to make the kipper 
hard. 

To salt hams. 

For three hams, pound and mix together half a 
peck of salt, half an ounce of salt prunella, three 
ounces of salt-petre, and four pounils of coarse 
salt; rub the hams well with this, and lay what is 
to spare over them, let them lie three days, then 
hang them up. Take the pickle in which the 
liaras were, put water enough to cover the hams 
with more common salt, till it will bear all egg, 
then boil and skim it well, put it in the salting tub, 
and the next morning put it to the hams; keep them 
flown the same as pickled pork; in a fortnight take 
them out of the liquor, rub them well with brine, 
and hang them up to dry. 

Tu dry salt beef and pork. 
' Lay the meat on a table or in a tub with a dou- 
ble bottom, that the brine may drain off as fast as 
it forms, rub the salt well in, and be careful to ap- 
ply it to eveiy niche; afterwards put it into either 
of the above utensils, when it must be frequently 
turned; after the brine has ceased running, it must 
be quite buried in salt, and kept closely packed. 
Meat which has had the bones taken out is the best 
for salting. In some places the salted meat is press- 
eu by heavy weights or a screw, to extract the 
moisture sooner. 

To pickle in hrhie. 

A good brine is made of bay salt and water, 
thoroughly saturated, so that some of the salt re- 
mains undissolved; into this brine the substances 
to be preserved are plunged, and kept covered | 
with it. Among vegetables, French beans, arti- ' 
chokes, olives, and the different sorts of samphire 
may be thus preserved, and among animals, her- 
rings. 

To salt by another method. — Mix brown sugar, 
bay salt, common salt, each 2 lbs. salt-petre, 8 oz. 
water, 2 gallons; this pickle gives meats a fine red 
colour, while the sugar renders them miM and of 
excellent flavour. — Large quantities are to be ma- 
naged by the above proportions. 



TO PRESERVE FRUITS. 
Soifie rules are necessary to be obsen-ed in this 



branch of confectionary. In the first place, ob- 
serve in making syrups that the sugar is well 
pound'ed and dissolved, before it is placed on the 
fire, otherwise their scum will not rise well, nor 
the fruit obtain its fine colour. When stone fruit 
is preserved, cover them with mutton suet render- 
ed, to exclude the air, which is sure ruin to them. 
All wet sweetmeats must be kept dry and cool to 
preserve them from mouldiness and damp. Dip a 
piece of writing paper in brandy, lay it close to 
the sweetmeats, cover them tight with paper, and 
they will keep well for any length of time; but will 
inevitably spoil without tlicse precautions. 

Jlnother method. — The fruit, if succulent, is first 
soaked for some hours in very hard water, or in a 
weak alum wutc^r, to harden it, and then to be 
drained uiion the fruit, either prepared or not; pour 
syrup, boiled to a candy height, and halt cold; af- 
ter some hours the syrup, weakened by the sauco 
of the fruit, is to be poured off, re-boiled, and pour- 
ed on again, and this repeat several times. When 
the syrup is judged to be no longer weakened, the 
fruit is to be taken cut of it, and well drained. 
To bottle damsons. 

Put damsons, before they are too ripe, into wide 
mouthed bottles, and cork them down tight; then 
]nit them into a moderately heated oven, and about 
three hours more will do them; observe that the 
oven is not too hot, otherwise it will make the 
fruit fly. All kinds of fi-uits that are bottled may 
be done in the same way, and they will keep twc 
years; after they are done, they must be put away 
with the mouth downward, in a cosl place, to keep 
them from fermenting. 

To preserve barberries. 

Set an equal quantity of barberries and sugar in 
a kettle of boiling water, till the sugar is melted, 
and the barberries quite soft; let them remain all 
night. Put them next day into a preserving pan, 
and boil them fifteen minutes, then put them into 
jars, tie them close, and set them by for use. 
To preseii^e grapes. 

Take close bunches, whether white or red, not 
too ripe, and lay them in a jar. Put to them a 
quarter of a pound of sugar candy, and fill the jar 
with common brandy. Tie them up close with a 
bladder, and set them in a dry place. 
7'o dry cherries. 

Having stoned the desired quantity of racrello 
cherries, put a pound and a quarter of fine sugar to 
every pound; beat and sift it over the cherries, and 
let them stand all night. Take them out of their 
sugar, and to every pound of sugar, put two spoons- 
ful of water. Boil and skim it well, and then put 
in the cherries; boil the sugar over them, and next 
morning strain them, and to every pound of syrup 
put half a pound more sugar; boil it till it is a lit- 
tle thicker, then put in the cherries and let them 
boil gently. The next day strain them, put them 
in a stove, and turn them every day till they ai-e 
dry. 

To clarify honey. 

The best kind is clarified by merely melting it 
in a water bath, and taking off the scum; the mid- 
dling kind by dissolving it in water, adding tho 
white of an egg to each pint of the solution, and 
boiling it down to its original consistence, skim- 
ming it from time to time. The inferior kind re- 
quires solution in water, boiling tjie solution with 
one pound of charcoal to 25 lbs. of honey, adding, 
when an excess of acid is apprehended, a small 
quantity of chalk or oyster shell powder; next by 
straining it several times through flannel, and re- 
ducing the solution to its original consistence by 
evaporation. 

To firesen'e candied orangi^ fiawers. 

Free them from their cups, stamina and pistils^ 
put fom- ounces into one pound of sugar, boiled to 



PERFUMERY, &c. 



187 



a candy height, and poured on a slab, so as to be 
formed into cakes. 

Seeds in honey for vegetation. 

Seeds of fruits, or thin sialic sti-ips, may be pre- 
served by being put into honey; and on being taken 
out, washed, and ph'inted,they will vegetate kindly. 
Fruits in brandy or otiier spirits. 

Gather ploms, apricots, clicrries, peaclies, and 
other juicy fruits, before they are perfectly ripe, 
and soak them for some hours in hard or alum 
•water, to make them firm; as the moisture of the 
fruit weakens the spirit, it ought to be strong, 
therefore, add five ounces of sugar to each quart 
of spirit. 

Seville oranges lohole. 

Cut a hole at the stem end of the oranges, the 
size of sixpence, take out all the pulp, put tiie 
oranges in cold water for two days, clianging it 
twice a day; boil them rather more than an hour, 
but do not cover them, as it will spoil the coloiu-; 
liave ready a good syrup, into which put tlie 
oranges, and boil them till they look clear; then 
take out the seeds, skins, &,c. from the pulp first 
taken out of the oranges, and add to it one of tiie 
■whole oranges, previously boiled, wiili an equal 
veigbt of sugar to it and the pulp: boil this toge- 
ther till it looks clear, over a slow fire, and when 
cold fill the oranges with this marmalade, and put 
on the tops; cover them with syrup, and put bran- 
dy paper on the top of ihe jar. It is better to take 
out the inside at first, to preserve the fine flavour 
of the juice and pulp, which would be injured by 
boiling in the water. 

Cucnmbers and melons. 

Take large cucumbers, green, and free from 
seed, put them in a jar of strong salt and water, 
vith vine leaves on the top, set ihcm by the fire 
side till they are yellow; then wash and set them 
over a slow fire in alum and water, covered with 
Tine leaves, let them boil till they become green; 
take them off", and let them stand in the liquor till 
cold: then quarter them, and take out the seed and 
pulp: put them in cold spring water, changing it 
twice a day for three days. Have ready a syrup 
made thus: to one pound of loaf sugar, half ap 
ounce of ginger bruised, with as much water as 
will wet it; when it is quite free from scum, put 
in, when boiling, tlie rind of a lernon and juice; 
when quite colJ, pour the syrup on the melons. 
If the syrup is too thin, after standing two or three 
days, boil it again, and add a little more sugar. A 
spoonful of rum gives it the West Indian flavour. 
Girkins may be done in the same way. One ounce 
of alum, when pounded, is sufficienc for a dozen 
melons of a middling size. 



Straiuhemes lohole. 
Take an equal weight of fruit and double refined 
sugar, lay the former in a large dish, and sprinkle 
half the sugar in fine powder; give a gentle shake 
to the dish, that the sugar may touch the under 
side of the fruit. Next day make a thin syrup with 
the remainder of the sugar; and allow one pint of 
red currant juice to every three pounds of straw- 
berries; in this simmer them until sufficiently jel- 
lied. Choose the largest scarlets, not dead ripe. 
Apricots. 
Infuse young apricots before their stones become 
hard, into a pan of cold spring water, with plenty 
of vine leaves, set them over a slow fire until they 
are quite yellow, then take them out, and rub then: 
with a flannel and salt to take oft" the lint: put them 
into the pan to the same Avater and leaves, cover 
tliem close at a distance from the fire, until they 
are a fine light green, then pick out all the bad 
ones. Boil the best gently two or three times in 
a thin syrup, and let tlieni be quite cold each time 
before you boil them. When they look plump and 
clear, make a syrup of double refined sugar, but 
not too thick; give your apricots a gentle boil in it, 
and then put them into the pots or glasses, dip a 
paper in brandy, lay it over them, tie them close, 
and keep them in a dry place. 

To make candied angelica. 
The stalks are to be boiled for a quarter of an 
hour in water, to take away their bitterness, and 
some of the strong scent; they are then to be put 
into syrup, boiled to a full candied heiglit, and 
kept on the fire until they appear quite dry, and 
then taken out and drained. 

Candied ei^ingo 
Is prepai'cd nearly in the same manner as can- 
died angelica, but the roots are only slit, and wash- 
ed tiiree or four times in cold water, before they 
are put into the syrup. 

To keep gooseberries. 
Put an ounce of roche alum, beat very fine, into 
a large pan of boiling hard water; place a few 
gooseberries at the bottom of a hair sieve, and hold 
them in the water till they turn white. Then take 
out the sieve, and spread the gooseberries between 
two cloths; put more into the sieve, then repeat it 
till they are all done. Put the water into a glazed 
pot until the next day, then put the gooseberries 
into wide-mouthed bottles, pick out all the crack- 
ed and broken ones, ])our the water clear out of 
the pot, and fill the bottles with it, cork thetn 
loosely, and let them stand a fortnight. If they 
rise to the corks, draw them out and let them stand 
two or three days uncorked, then cork them close 
.as-ain. 



l?BTLTVm.-EWZ AMD COSMETICS. 



To make eau de Cologne. 

Take of essence de bergamotte, 3 oz. neroli, 1^ 
di'aehms, cedrat, 2 do., lemon, 3 do., oil of rose- 
mary, 1 do., spirit of wine, 12 lbs., spirit of rose- 
mary, 3^ do., eau de melisse de Carnies, 2^^ do. 
Mix. Distil in balneum marise, and keep it in a 
cold cellar or icehouse for some time. It is used 
as a cosmetic, and made with sugar into a ratafia. 
£tiu de meksse de Cannes. 

Take of dried balm leaves, 4 oz. dried lemon- 



peel, 2 do., nutmegs and coriander seeds, each, 1 
oz. cloves, cinnamon, and dried angelica roots, 
each, 4 dr. spirit of wine, 2 lbs. brand)', 2 ditto. 
Steep and distil in balneum marite, re-distil, and 
keep for some time in a cold cellar. 

Original receipt for the same. — Take of spirit 
of balm, 8 pints, lemon peel, 4 do., nutmegs and 
coriander seeds, each 2 do., rosemary, marjoram, 
thyme, hyssop, cinnamon, sage, aniseed, cloves, 
angelica roots, each I pint. Mix, distil and keep 



II 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



it for a year in an icehouse. — This is the original 
receipt of the barefooted Carmelites, how in jios- 
session of the company of apothecaries of Paris, 
who sell a vast quantity of this celebrated water. 
Ijcui da bouquet. 

Take of sweet scented honey water, 1 oz. eau 
sans pareille, H do. essence de jasmine, 5 drachms, 
syruj) of cloves and spirit of violets, each, 4 dr. 
calamus aromaticus. Ions'- rooted cyperus, lavender, 
each, 2 do. essence of neroli, 1 scruple. Mix. 
Some add a few grains of musk and ambergris: it 
is sweet scented, and also made into a ratafia witii 
sugar. 

Essence tie jasmin. 

The flowers are stratified with wool or cotton, 
impregnated with oil of behn, or imt oil, in an 
eartlieu vessel, closely covered, and kept for some 
time iu a warm bath; tiiis is repeated with fresh 
flowers, until tlie oil is well scented; the wool, &c. 
is tlien put into a sufficient quantity of spirit of 
>vine, and distilled in balneum marice. 
'J'he best honey water. 

Take of coriander seeds, a pound, cassia, 4 oz. 
cloves and gum benzoin, each, 2 oz. oil of rhodi- 
um, essence of lemon, essence of bergaraot, and 
oil of lavender, each, 1 drachm, rectified spirit of 
wine, 20 pints, rose water, 2 quarts, nutmeg wa- 
ter, 1 quart, musk and ambergris, each, 12 grains. 
Distil in a water bath to dryness. 

Another method. — Put 2 drachms each, of tinct- 
ure of ambergris, and tincture of musk, in a quart 
of rectified spirits of wine, and half a pint of water: 
filter and put it up in small bottles. 
Ottar of roses. 

The royal society of Edinburgh received from 
Dr Monro the following account of the manner in 
whicli this costly perfume is prepared in the east. 
Steep a large quantity of the petals of the rose, 
freed from every extraneous matter, in pure water, 
in an earthen or wooden vessel, whicli is exposed 
daily to the sun, and housed at night, till a scum 
rises to the surface. This is the ottar, which, care- 
fully absorb by a very small piece of cotton tied to 
the end of a stick. The oil collected, squeeze out 
of the cotton into a very diminutive vial, slop it for 
use. Tiie collection of it siiould be continued 
whilst any scum is produced. 

English milk of roses. 

Take 2 lbs. of Jordan almonds, 5 quarts of rose 
■water, 1 do. of rectified spirit of wine, ^ an oz. of 
oil of lavender, 2 oz. of Spanish oil soap, and 4 oz. 
of cream of roses. — Blanch the almonds in boiling 
■water, dry them well in a cloth, then pound then\ 
in a mortar until they become a paste. Pound in 
the soap and mix it well with the almond paste. 
Then add the cream of roses. Wlien these are 
mixed, add the rose-water and spirits, which stir in 
with a spatula or knife. Strain the vhole through 
a clean white cloth, then add the oil of lavender to 
the expressed liquid, drop by drop, and stir the 
whole well. When the mixture has stood for a 
day, cover it over with a cloth from the dust, then 
bottle it for use. 

French milk of roses. 

Mix together 4 oz. of oil of almonds, ^ an oz. 
of English oil of lavender, 2 quarts of spirit of 
wine, and 10 do. of rose-water. Next blanch 3 
lbs. of Jordan almonds, and pound them in a mor- 
tar, with a quarter of a pound of Spanish oil-soap, 
half an oz. of spermaceti, and half an oz. of white 
wax. Put these ingredients into a large jar, with 
two ounces of pearl-ash, dissolved in an ounce of 
warm water. Shake the whole well, and then poui- 
it into small bottles for sale. 

Cream of roses. 

Take 1 lb. of oil of sweet almonds, — 1 oz. of 
spermaceti, — 1 oz. of ■white wax, — I pint of rose 



water, — and 2 drachms of Malta rose, or nerolet 
essence. Put tlie oil, spermaceti, and wax, into a 
well-glazed pipkin, over a clear fire, ami, when 
melted, pour in the rose-water by degrees, and 
keep heating, till the compound becomes like po- 
matum. Now add the essence, and then put the 
cream into small pots or jars, which must be weH 
covered up with pieces of bladder, and soft skin 
leather. 

Cold cream pomatn7n for the complexion. 

Take an ounce of nil of'sweet almonds, and half 
a drachm each, of wliite wax and sjiermaceti, with 
a little balm. Melt these ingredients in a glazed 
pipkin, over hot ashes, and pour the solution into 
a marble mortar; stir it with the pestle until it be- 
comes smooth and cold, then add gradually an 
ounce of rose or orange-flower water; stir all the 
mixture till incorporated to resemble cream. This 
pomatum renders the skin at once supple and 
smooth. To prevent marks from the small pox, 
add a little powder of saffron. The gallipot in 
which it is kept, should have a piece of bladder 
tied over it. 

Another. — Take 4 ounces of clear trotter oil, 
one ounce of oil of jessamine, 2 ounces of sper- 
maceti, and one ounce of white wax, scraped fine. 
Melt them together very gentlj', then pour it into 
a pan, which must be kept by the fire. Now beat 
it without intermission, till it becomes one con- 
sistent very white body: then put to it 3 ounces of 
rose or orange-flower water, with about a drachm 
of spirit of ambergris, or other sweet essence. 
IJeat the mixture well again, until the water and 
spirit be properly absorbed. This beating will 
add greatly to the whiteness as well as the flavour 
of the cream, which will now be as white as snow; 
particularly if care is taken that the utensils and 
ingredients are quite clean. ' 

In winter, all the utensils, &c. must be kept 
warm, and the process performed in a warm room. 
Even the I'ose-water must be warmed, previous to 
mixture, otherwise the cream will congeal into 
knobs, so as to cause the whole to be melted again. 

In summer every thing must be kept cool after 
the melting and mixing. More wax must likewise 
be used in summer than in winter. 

When put into pots, the cold cream is to be kept 
vei-y cool; each having honey-water poured ou the 
top, in order to i/nprove the flavour. 
Pomade divine. 

Put a pound and a half of clear beef maiTow into 
an earthen pan of fresh water, and cliange the same 
for ten days, then steep it in rose water for 24 hours, 
and drain it in a cloth till dry. Take an ounce of 
storax, gum benjamin, odoriferous Cypress pow- 
der, or of Florence, half an ounce of cinnamon, 
two drachms of cloves, and two ilrachms of nut- 
meg, all finely powdered: mix them with the mar- 
row, then put the ingredients into a three-pint 
pewter pot, make a paste of the white of an egg and 
flour, and lay it upon a piece of rag, over that put 
another piece of linen to cover the top close. Put 
the pot into a large copper pot with water, and keep 
it steady that it may not reach to the covering ot 
the pot that holds the marrow. As the water 
shrinks, add more, for it must boil four hours 
without ceasing; strain the ointment liirough a 
linen cloth into small pots, and wlien cold cover 
them up close with bladder and paper. Don't 
touch it with any thing but silver. 

Pearl water for the face. 

Put half a pound of best Spanish oil soap, scrap- 
ed very fine, into a galltjn of boiling water. Stir 
it well for some time, and let it stand till cold. 
Add a quart of rectified spirit of wine, and half an 
ounce of oil of rosemary; stir them again. This 
compound liquid, when put up in proper phials in 



PERFUMEliY, &c. 



189 



Ital}', is called tincture of pearls. It is an excel- 
lenlj" cosmetic for removing freckles troiia the face, 
audTor improving the complexion. 

To prepare almond bloom. 

Take of Brazil dust, 1 oz. water, 3 pints, isin- 
glass, 6 drachms, cochineal, 2 do. alum, 1 oz. bo- 
rax, 3 draclims. 

To make almond paste. 

Take of hlanclied sweet almonds, 1 lb. blanched 
bitter do. ^ lb. sugai', 1 lb. Beat up with orange 
flower water. 

Common almond paste. 

To make this paste, take six pounds of fresh 
almonds, which blanch and beat in a stone mortar, 
■with a sufficient quantity of rose water. Now add 
a pound of finely (h'ained honey, and mixtlie whole 
well together. This ])aste, which is exceedingly 
good for the hands, is to be put into small pots for 
sale. If tins paste gets dry, rub it up on a marble 
slab, with rose water. To previ^nt this dryness, 
put about half a teaspoonful of this water on the 
top of each pot, before tying up. 
Orange pomatum. 

Take 5 pounds of hog's lard, I pound of mutton 
suet, 3 ounces of Portugal water, half an ounce of 
essence of Bcrgamot, 4 ounces of yellow wax, and 
half a pound of palm oil. Mix. 
Soft pomatum. 

Take 25 pounds of hog's lard, 8 pounds of mut- 
ton suet, 6 ounces of oil of Bergamot, 4 ounces of 
essence of lemons, half an ounce of oil of laven- 
der, and a quarter of an ounce of oil of rosemary. 
These ingredients are to be combined in the same 
manner as those for the hard pomatum. This po- 
taatum is to be put up in pots, in the usual way. 
Commmi pomatum. 

Take 4 pounds of fresh and white mutton suet, 
skinned and shre(kled very fine; wliich melt in 
about two quarts of spring water; and, whilst hot, 
put the whole into a well glazed earthen pan, small 
at bottom, and wide at the top. Let it stand until 
the fat is quite cold, and all the impurities fall to 
the bottom, wliich carefully scrape off. Now break 
the fat into small pieces, which put into a pan, with 
2 gallons of spring water, for a whole day; stir and 
wash oflen. Next day change the water, and when 
poured off a second time, at the end of twenty- 
four hours, dry the fat by rubbing in a clean linen 
cloth. Now put the suet, with 1 pound and a half 
of fresh iiog's lard, into a large pan, and melt the 
\vhole over a gentle fire. \Viieu properly com- 
bined, put the whole into an eartlien pan, and beat 
it with a wooden spatula, until cold. Whilst beat- 
ing, add 6 drachms of essence of lemon, and 30 
drops of oil of cloves previously mixed together. 
Now continue beating, until the mixture be per- 
fectly white, and afterwards put it up into small pots. 
Leave the pots open until the pomatum is quite 
cold; when cover them by pieces of bladder, &c. 
In summer use more suet, and mix in a cool place: 
in winter use more hog's lard, and make tlie poma- 
tum in a warm room. 

Hard pomatum. 

Take 30 lbs of suet, ih lbs. of white wax, 6 oz. 
of essence of Bergamot, 4 ounces of lemon, 1 oz. 
of lavender, 4 drachms of oil of rosemary, and 2 
drachms of essence of ambergris. Shred and pick 
the suet clean, and melt it in an earthen pan or 
pipkin. Then stir it well and strain; and when 
nearly cold, add the perfumes, stirring well as be- 
fore. When properly mixed, pour it into tin 
moulds. 

Jlnother. — Take 6 oz. of common pomatum, and 
add to it 3 oz. of white virgin wax, scraped fine. 
Melt them in an earthen pan, immersed in a larger 
one containing boiling water; both being placed 
over a clear and steady fire. When properly in- 



corporated, keep stirring, until it is nearly cold; 
then put it into small pots, or make it up into 
small rolls. Perfume it according to taste. 
Rosernary pomatum. 

Strip a large double handful of rosemary; boil it 
in a tin or copper vessel, with half a pound of com- 
mon soft pomatum, till it comes to about 3 or 4 oa. 
strain it oft", and keep it in the usual way. 
Pearl poiuder for the face. 

There are several sorts: tlie finest is made from 
real pearls, and is the least hurtful to the skin. It 
gives the most beautiful appearance, but is too dear 
for common use; still the perfumer ought never to 
be without it, for the use of tlie curious and the rich. 
Bismuth pearl po-ivder. 

The next best pearl powder is made as follows: 
Take 4 ounces of the best magistery of bismuth, 2 
ounces of fine starch powder. Mix them well to- 
gether, and putting them into a subsiding glass, 
wide at top and narrow at bottom, pour over them 
a pint and a half of proof spirit, and shake them 
well; let them remain a day or two. When the 
powder foils to the bottom, pour off the spirit, leav- 
ing it dry; then place the glass in the sun, to eva- 
porate the moisture. Next turn out the white mass, 
the dirty parts of which form the top, whilst the 
pure ingredients remain at the bottom. If there 
be any dirty particles, scrape them oft", and again 
pulverize the remaining part of the cake, and pour 
more proof spirit over it. Proceed as before; and, 
if there be any moisture remaining, place the cone 
on a large piece of smooth clialk, to absorb its 
moisture. Cover the whole with a bell-glass to 
preserve it from dust, and set it in the sun to dry 
and whiten it. Next grind the mass with a mulier 
on a marble stone; and keep the powder in a glass 
bottle, secured by a ground stopper, from air. 
To blacken white oxide of bismuth by Harroxogate 
ivaier. 

Place a little oxide of bismuth on a white dish, 
and pour over it some Harrowgate water. Its 
beautiful white colour will instantly be changed to 
black. 

It is well known that this oxide, under the name 
oi pearl -white, is used as a cosmetic by those of the 
fair sex who wish to become iairer. A lady thus 
painted was sitting in a lecture room, where chem- 
istry being the subject, water being impregnated 
with sulphuretted hydrogen gas (Harrowgate wa- 
ter) was handed round for inspection. On smell- 
ing this liquid, the lady in question became sud- 
deidy black in the face. Every person was of 
course alarmed by this sudden chemical ciiange; 
but the lecturer explaining the cause of the phe- 
nomenon, the lady received no farther injury, than 
a salutary practical lesson to rely more upon na- 
tural than artificial beauty in future. 

Orange Jio-wer paste for the hands. 

Blanch 5 or 6 lbs. of bitter almonds, by boiling 
in water, and then beat them very fine in a marble 
mortar, with 2 lbs. of orange flowers. If the paste 
be too oily, add to it some bean flour, finely sifted, 
but let no water enter the composition. This paste 
is made abroad, but comes here very damaged, the 
sea-air destroying its propertied 

To make cored tooth powder. 

Take 4 oz. of coral, reduced to an impalpable 
powder, 8 oz. of very light Armenian bole, 1 oz, 
of Portugal snuff, 1 oz. of Havanah snuft", 1 oz. of 
good burnt tobacco ashes, and 1 oz. of gum myrrh, 
well pulverised. Mix them together, and sift them 
twice. 

A good tooth powder. 

To make a good tooth powder leave out the corals, 
and, in its piace, put in pieces of brown stone- ware, 
reduced to a very fine powder. This is the com- 
mon M ay of making it. 



190 



U^nVEIlSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



All astringent for the teeth. 

Take of fresh conserve of roses, 2 oz. the juice 
of half a sour lemon, a little very rough claret, and 
6 ounces of coral tooUi-powder. Make them into 
a paste, which put up in small pots; and if, it dry 
by standing, moisten witli lemon juice and wine, 
as before. 

To prevent the tooth-ache. , 

Rub well tlie teeth and spurns vviUi a hard tooth- 
brush, using the flowers of sulphur as a tooth |)ow- 
der, every night on going to bed; and if it is done 
after dinner it will be best: this is an excellent pre- 
servative to the teeth, and void of any unpleasant 
stuell. 

A radical cure fur the iooth-ache. 

Use as a tooth powder the Spanish sniifT called 
Sibella, and it will clean the teeth as well as any 
other powder, and totally prevent the tooth-ache; 
and make a regular practice of wasliing behind the 
ears with cold water every morning. The reme- 
dy is infallible. 

To clean the teeth. 

Take of good soft water, 1 quart, juice of lemon, 
2 oz. burnt alum, 6 grains, common s:ilt, 6 grains. 
Mix. Hoil them a minute in a cup, then strain 
and bottle for use: rub the teeth with a small bit of 
sponge tied to a stick, once a week. 
To make the teeth luhite. 

A mixture of honey «'ith the purest charcoal will 
prove an admirable cleanser. 

All excellent opiate for tlie teeth. 

Well boil and skim 1 lb. of honey; add to it a 
quarter of a pound of bo!^; aramouiac, 1 oz. of dra- 
gon's blood, 1 of oil of sweet almonds, half an oz. 
of oil of cloves, 8 drops of essence of bergaraot, a 
gill of honey water, all mixed well together, and 
put into pots for use. 

Vegetable tooth bnishes. 

Take marine marsh-mallow roots, cut tliem into 
lengths of 5 or 6 inches, and of the thickness of a 
middling rjittan cane. Ury them in the shade, but 
not so as to make them shrivel. 

Next finely pulverize two ounces of good dra- 
gon's blood, put It into a flat bottomed glazed pan, 
with four ounces of highly rectified spirit, and half 
an oz. of fresh conserve of roses. Set it over a 
gentle ch:^rcoal fire, and stir it until tlie dragon's 
blood is dissolved; then put in about thirty of the 
marsh-mallow sticks; stir them about, and care- 
fully turn them, that all parts may absorb the dye 
alike. Continue this until the bottom of the pan 
be quite dry, and shake and stir it over the fire, 
Until Vie sticks are perfectly dry and hard. 

Botli ends of each root or stick should, previous 
to immersion in the pan, be bruised gently by a 
hammer, for half an incli dowMnvards, so as to open 
its fibres, and thereby form a brush. 

They are generally used by ilipping one of the 
ends in the powder or opiate, and then, by rubbing 
them against the teeth, which they cleanse and 
•whiten admirably. 

Other vegetable tooth brushes. — There are sev- 
eral cheap sorts of these tooth-brushes, which are 
made in the same manner as the genuine ones, ex- 
cept that, as a basis, rattan cane, or even common 
deal, cut round, is used instead of the marsh-mal- 
low roots. 

Rose lip salve. 

Put eight ounces of tiie best olive oil into a wide- 
mouthed bottle, add two ounces of the small parts 
of alkanet-root. Stop up the bottle, and set it in 
liie sun; shake it often, until it be of a beautiful 
crimson. Now strain the oil olf very clear from 
tlie roots, and add to it, in a glazed pipkin, three 
ounces of very fine white wax, and tlie same quan- 
tity of fresh clean mutton suet. Doer suet is too 



brittle; and also apt to turn yellow. Melt this by 
a slow fire, and perfume it when taken off", with for- 
ty drops ofoil of rhodium, or of lavender. When 
cold, put it into small gallipots, or rather whilst in 
a liquid state. 

The common way is to make this s.Mve up into 
small cakes; but in that form the colour is veiy apt 
to be ini])aired. 

This salve never fails to cure chopped or sore 
lips, if api)lied pretty freely at bed-time, in the 
course of a day or two at farthest. 

Another method. — Heat the alkanet root in a 
mortar, until its fibres are properly bruised, then 
tie it up in a piece of clean linen rag, and put this 
in a clean pipkin with the oil. Wlieii the oil has 
begim to boil, it will be found of a deep red. The 
bag is now to be taken out, pressed, and thrown 
away, and tiien the other ingredients are to be add- 
ed, as above. 

White lip salve. 
This may be made as above, except in the uSe 
of alkanet-root, which is to be left out. Though 
called iJp-salve, tlijs composition is seldom applied 
to the lips; its principal use consisting in curing 
sore nipples, for which it is an excellent remedy. 
To siveeien the breath. 
Take two ounces of terra japonica; half an ounce 
of sugar-candy, both in powder. Grind one drachm 
of the best ambergris witli ten grains of pure musk, 
and dissolve a quarter of an ounce of clean gum 
tr!\gacanth in two ounces of orange-flower water. 
Mix all together, so as to form a paste, which roll 
into pieces of the thickness of a straw. Cut these 
into pieces, and lay them in clean paper. This is 
an excellent perfume for those whose breath is 
disagreeable. 

To perfume clothes. 
Take of oven-dried best cloves, cedar and rhu- 
barb wood, each one ounce, beat them to a powder 
and sprinkle them in a box or chest, where they 
will create a most beautiful scent, and preserve the 
apparel against moths. 

Perfumed bags for dratuers. 
; Cut, slice and mix well together, in the state of 
very ;;ross powder, the following ingredients: 2 oz. 
of yellow Saunders, 2 oz. of coriander seeds, 2 oz. 
of orris root, 2 oz. of calamus aromaticus, 2 oz. of 
cloves, 2 oz. of cinnamon bark, 2 oz. of dried rose« 
leaves, 2 oz. of lavender flowers, and I lb. of oak 
shavings. When properly mixed, stuff the above 
into small linen bags, which place in drawers, ward- 
robes, he, which are musty or liable to become so. 

Excellent perfume for gloves. 
Take of ambergris one drachm, civet the like 
quantity; add flour-butter a quarter of an ounce; 
and with these well mixed, rub the gloves over 
gently with fine cotton wool and press the per- 
fume into them. 

Another. — Take of damask or rose scent, half 
an ounce, the spirit of cloves and mace, each a 
drachm; frankincense, a.-^ of an ounce. Mix thera 
together, and lay them in papers, and when hard, 
press tlie gloves; they will take the scent in '2i 
hours, and hardly ever lose it. 

Tincture of mnsk. 
This excellent spirit requires 6 drachms of Chi- 
na musk, 20 grains of civet, and 2 drachms of red 
rose buds. Reduce these ingredients to powder 
with loaf sugar, and pour over them 3 pints of spi- 
rit of wine. 

A perfume to prevent pestilential airs, &c. 
Take of benjamin, storax, and galbanum, each 
half an oz. temper lliem, being bruised into pow- 
der, with the oil of myrrh, and burn them in a 
chaiing-dish, or else take rosemary, balm, and bay 
leaves; heat lliem iu wine and sugar, and let llie 



PERFUMERY, &c. 



191 



moisture be consumed; likewise burn them by the 
lieat of the pan, and they will produce a very fine 
scent. 

Pastils for perfuming sick rooms. 

Powder separately the following ingredients, and 
then mix, on a marble slab, 1 lb. of gum benzoin, 
8 oz. of gum storax, 1 lb. of frankincense, and i 
lbs. of fine charcoal. Add to this composition the 
following liquids: 6 oz. of tincture of benzoin, 2 
oz. of essence of ambergris, 1 oz. of essence of 
musk, 2 oz., of almond oil, and 4 oz. of clear syrup. 
Mix the whole into a stiff paste, and form into 
paslils, of a conical shape, which dry in tiie heiit 
of the sun. If more liquid should be required for 
the paste, add warm water. 

Aromatic pastils. 

Beat and sift fine a pound of the four gums left 
aRer the making of lioney-waler, one pound also 
of the ingredients left from the sjjirit of benjamin, 
one pound of the best sealing-wax, and one pound 
of genuine gum benzoin. 

Dissolve some cleav" common gum arable in a 
quantity of rose-water, of a pretty thick consisten- 
cy, aiul add to it sixty drops of spirit of musk. 

Mix the whole together, so as to make a pretty 
stiff paste, which make up into small cones or balls: 
Dry them thoroughly before they are put away, 
otherwise they will become mould)'. 

These pastils are particularly useful for burning 
in rooms, where the sick or the dead h.ave lain. They 
are used in very considerable quantities in the two 
Houses of Lords and Commons; also in various 
halls, assemblj' rooms, 8cc. 

Explosive pastils. 

There is another sort of these pastils, called 
sweets and sours, which are made thus: Take some 
of the above aromatic paste, and make into cones 
of '2 inches in length, and of the thickness, at their 
bases, of an incli. Whilst moist, scoop out a cavity 
in the bottom of each, capable of continuing a large 
pea, fill it up with gunpowder, covering tiiis over 
with the paste which has been scooped out. 

When to be dried, lay the bottoms of these pas- 
tils uppermost; for if any moisture attacks the gun- 
powder, its eft'ects will be destroyed. 
■ The ilesign (it can hardly be called a useful pur-' 
pose,) for which tliese pastils are made, is to pro- 
duce diversion. During Christmas, or other holi- 
day gambols, it is customary with many to light 
one of these with the avowed intention of perfum- 
ing the apartments, and whilst the company are 
pleased with the odour, an unexpected report ter- 
rities some, whilst it amuses otliers. 
Hair po-ivder perfume. 

Take half a pound of pulvil powder, made from 
apple-tree moss, half an ounce of grey ambergris, 
thirty grains of musk, and twent)' grains of civet. 
Griiul the musk and civet with loaf sugar to a very 
fine powder; melt the ambergris, with 6 drops of 
the oil of behn nuts, over a gentle fire, in a clean 
vessel, not brass or copper, add, as it melts, a few 
drops of the juice of green lemon, and about 4 
drops each of oil of rhodium and lavender. When 
the ambergris is melted, put the above powder in- 
to it, stir and mix it well. Add, by degrees, the 
powder of apple-moss; and when the whole is com- 
bined, pulverize and sift it through a very fine hair 
sieve; what will not pass through, retiu'u into the 
mortar, again pound it with loaf sugar, until the 
whole is reduced to fine powder. 
Ambergris perfume. 

Melt 2 penny-weights of fine ambergris, in a 
brass mortar, veiy gently, stir in quickly 8 drops 
of green lemon juice, and the same of behn-nut 
oil. Add, ready powdered with fine loaf sugar, 12 
grains of musk, 12 grains ol civet, aad 24 grains 



of the residuum from the m.iking of spirit of am- 
bergris. Add one ounce of spirit of ambergris. Mix 
and incorporate them well, and add 16 pounds of 
fine dry hair powder. Pass the whole, twice 
through a fine hair sieve; then lay it oj>en for three 
days, in a dry room, stir it often, that the spirit 
may entirely evaporate; otherwise it may turn sour, 
which however will go off by keeping. Bottle and 
stop it close. 

Musk and civet perfumes. 

Take 2 penny-weights of pure musk, 12. grains 
of civet, and 1 penny-weight of the residuum of 
spirit of ambergris. Make this into a paste, with 2 
ounces of spirit of musk, made by infusion. Pow- 
der it witli loaf sugar, and mix in 16 pounds of fine 
hair powder. • 

On'is perfume. 

Take best dried and scraped orris roots, free 
from mould. IJruise or grind them: the latter is 
best, as, being very tougli, they require great la- 
bour to pound. Sift the powder through a fine hair 
sieve, and put the remainder in a baker's oven, to 
dry the moisture. X violent heat will turn the 
roots yellow. When dry, grind ag;un, and sift; 
and repeat the same until tiie whole has jwssed 
through the sieve; mixnotiiing with it, as it would 
mould and spoil it. 

Violet perfume. 

Drop twelve drops of geiuiine oil of rhodium on 
a iumii of loaf-sugar; grind this well in a glass mor- 
tar, and mix it tiioroughly with tlu-ee pounds of 
orris powder. This will, in its perfume, have a 
resemblance to a well-fl;ivoured violet. If you add 
more rhodium oil, a rose perfume, insteiul of a 
violet one, will be produced; the orris powder is a 
most agreeable perfume, and only requiring to be 
raised by the addition of the above quantity of the 
oil. Keep this perfume in the same manner as the 
otliers. What is at tlie druggists' shops is gene- 
rally adulterated. 

Rose perfume. , 

Take two pecks of fresh dry damask rose leaves; 
strip them from their loaves and stalks; have ready 
sixteen pounds of fine hair powder. Strew a layer 
of rose leaves, on sheets of paper, at the bottom of 
a box, cover them over with a layer of hair pow- 
der; then strew alternately a layer of roses and 
powder, mitil the whole of eacii has been used. 
When they have lain 24 hours, sill the powder out, 
and expose it to the air 24 hours more. Stir it of- 
ten. Add fresh rose leaves, twice, as before, and 
proceed in the same way; after tliis dry the pow- 
der well by a gentle h2at, and pass it through a 
fine sieve. Lastly, pour ten drops of oil of rho- 
dium, or three drops of otto of roses, on loaf su- 
gar, which triturate in a glass mortar, and stir well 
into the powder, which put into a box, or glass for 
use. This hair powder perfume will be excellent, 
and will keep well. 

Jiergamot perfume. 

Take sixteen pounds of hair powder, and forty 
drops of Roman oil of bergamot, and proceed in 
all respects as before, but do not leave the com- 
pound exposed to the air; for in this case the ber- 
gamot is so volatile, that it will quickly fly oft". 
Ambergris hair powder. 

Take twelve pounds of fine starch powder, add 
three pounds of the ambergris perfume: mix them 
well together, and run it twice through a fine hair 
sieve. Put it into a well closed box, or glass, for 
use This is the first and best sort of ambergris 
powder: but for a second, or inferior sort, put only 
a pound and a half of the perfume, to the above 
quantity of starch powder. 

JYlusk and civet hair powder. 

Mix twelve pounds of starch powder, and three 



192 



uni\t:rsal receipt book. 



pounds of musk perfume, as before. A second 
sort of this hair powder may be made by using 
half the quantity of the perfume. 
Violet hair prnvder. 

Mix twelve pounds of hair powder with three 
pounds of the violet perfume, and lay it by for use. 
Jiose hair poxvder. 

Mix well twelve pounds of starch powder, with 
three pounds of the rose perfume. Sift; put it up 
ID a cedar box, or glass bottle. 

Another. — A second sort of this powder may be 
made by using half the quantity of the perfume to 
twelve pounds of powder, and adding two drops 
of otto of roses, previously dropped on sugar, and 
■well triturated in a glass mortar. 

To destroy siiperjluoiis hair. 

Take of fresli lime-stone, 1 oz. ])ure potass, 1 
drachm, sulphuret of potass, 1 drachm. Reduce 
them to a fine powder in a wedgewood mortar. If 
the hair be first washed, or soaked in warm Avatei-, 
(130° Fahr.) for ten minutes, this article formed 
into a thin paste, with warm water, and applied 
■whilst warm, will so effectually destroy the hair in 
five or six minutes, tliat it may be removed by 
■\vashing the skin with flannel. It is a powerful 
caustic, and should therefore be i-emoved as soon 
as it begins to inflame the skin, by washing it olf 
■with vinegar. It softens the skin, and greatly im- 
proves its appearance. 

To make Spanish ladies'' rouge. 

Take good new scarlet wool cuttings and spirit 
of wine, or lemon-juice, boil them in a well glaz- 
ed eai'tlien pot well stopped, till the liquid lias 
charged itself witliall the colour of the scarlet, strain 
the dye through a cloth, and all llie colour there- 
from; boil it afterwards in a little arable water, till 
tlie colour becomes very deep. The proportion of 
materials is, to half a pound of scarlet cuttings, a 
quarter of a pint of spirit of wine, and a sufficient 
quantity of water to assist the soaking. Then, in the 
colour extracted, put a piece of gum arable, of the 
size of a filbert: next steep some cotton in the co- 
lour, and wet some sheets 'of paper with the dj'e, 
•which repeat several times, as often as they are 
' diy, and you will find them sufficiently charged 
•with rouge for use. 

Spanish vermilion for the toilette. 

Pour into the alkaline liquor which holds in so- 
lution the colouring part of bastard saffron, such a 
quantity of lemon juice as may be necessary to sa- 
tiu-ate the whole alkaline salts. At the time of tlie 
precipitation, tiie latter appears under tlie form of 
a fecula full of threads, which soon falls to the 
bottom of the vessel. Mix this part with white 
talc, reduced to fine powder, and moistened with 
a little lemon-juice and water. Tlien form the 
•(vhole into a paste; and having put it in small pots, 
expose it to dry. This colour is reserved for tlie 
use of the toilette; but it has not the diu^ability of 
that prepared from cocliineal. 

F.conomical rouge. 

Fine carmine, properly pulverized and prepared 
for the purpose, is tlie best tiiat can be employed 
with safety and eftect; it gives the most natural tone 
to the coiaplexion, and imparts a brilliancy to the 
eyes, without detracting from the softness of the 
skin. To use it economically, take some of the 
finest pomatum, without scent, in which there is a 
proportion of white wax, about the size of a pea, 
just flatten it u[)on a piece of white paper, then 
take on a pointed penknife, carmine equal to a 
pin's head, mix it gently with the pomatum, with 
your finger, and wlieu you have produced the de- 
sired tint, rub it in a little compressed cotton, pass 
it over the cheeks till colour is clearly diffused, 
void of grease, toadies will find, upon trial, that 
this economical rouge will neither injure tlie health 



nor the skin; and it imitates perfectly the natural 
colour of the complexion. 

Another. — Take of French chalk, (powdered) 
4 ounces; oil of almonds, 2 drachms; carmine, 1 do. 
Turkish bloom. 
Infuse \\ ounces of gum benzoin, 2 ounces of 
red Saunders in powder, and 2 drachms of dragon's 
blood, in 12 ounces of rectified spirit of wine, and 
4 ounces of river or rain water. When the ingre- 
dients have been mixed, stoi) the bottle close, and 
shake frequently during seven days; then filler 
througli blotting paper. 

A ivashfor sun-burnt faces and hands. 
To each pound of ox-gall, add roche alum, 1. 
drachm, rock salt, -J ounce, sugar candy, 1 ounce, 
borax, 2 drachms, camphor, 1 drachm. Mix and 
shake well for fifteen minutes, then often daily, for 
fifteen days, or till the gall is transparent; filter 
through cap paper; used when exposed to the sun; 
always washing oft" before sleep. 
Jilacouba smiff. 
The varied flavour of snuft's of different kinds 
arises less from the state of the original leaf, than 
the factitious additions of manufactui'ers. The 
snuff of Martiiiico, celebr.ited under the term 
" ]\Iacouba," is made from the best leaves, wluch 
being moistened with juice from their excellent su- 
gar-canes, undergoes fermentation, and having 
thrown oft' the oft'eusive fetor in scum and residuum, 
is evaporated and ground in the usual manner. 
Cephalic smiff. 
Its basis is powdered asarum, (vulgo Asarabac- 
ca), reduced by admixture with a small portion of 
powdered dock-leaf, or any other innoxious vege- 
table. The finely levigated snutt", known as 
" Scotch," may be added, agreeable to the taste of 
the consumer; and finally a solution of spirit of 
wine and camphor, in the proportion of one drachm 
of the latter in fifteen of spirit, is to be dropped 
upon the camphor, from five to ten drops to aa 
ounce. Bottle your snuff" immediately. 

Another may be made of a veiy pleasant flavour, 
with the powder produced from sage, rosemary, 
lilies of tlie valley, and tops of sweet marjoram, of 
each 1 ounce, with a drachm of Asarabacca root, 
lavender-flowers, and nutmeg; it should be very 
fine, and it will relieve the head vastly. 
To imitate Spanish snuff. 
Take good unsifted Havanah snuff, and grind it 
down to a fine powder. If the tobacco be too 
strong, mix it with the fine powder of Spanish nut- 
shells, which is by far the best mixture which can 
be used. Over this sprinkle some weak treacle 
water, and when, after mixing with the hands, it 
has lain in a heap for some days, to sweat and in 
corporate, pack it up; but lake care that it be not 
too moist. 

This snuff, in the course of twelve months, •will 
be of one uniform and agreeable flavour; and will 
keep good and mending, for many years. When 
old, this sort will hardly be inferior to any of the 
plain snuffs made in Spain. 

London imitation of Spanish and other foreign 
snuffs. 
The fine powder, which is the best part of the 
snuft', as it comes from abroad, is sifted from the 
bale-snuff; and the coarse and stalky part left, is 
ground down, previously mixed with strong cheap 
tobacco powder, or dust, along with savine, brick- 
dust, yellow sand, the sweepings of tobacco, old 
rotten wood, and with many other filthy vegetable 
substances, both dry and green, to pass as the real 
flavour of tobacco. All or most of these ingredi- 
ents being mixed into one body. This is nothing 
more than colouring the filthy compound with red 
ochre, or umber, or other noxious red or brown 
colour, mixed willi water and molasses. 



INKS, &c. 



193 



The whole, when properly incorporated, is now 
passed through a hair sieve, to mix it more inti- 
mately; and is then left for sometime to sweat, or 
become equally moist. This moistness is intended 
to imitate the oiliness which is peculiar to the real 
genuine rancia from Havannah. 

This snuff is packed in barrels, tin canisters, 
and stone jars, so that it may come out in lumps, 
like the Spanish snufts. This is done to deceive 
the purchaser, on whom this bad compound is im- 
posed for real Spanish snuff. Such is the compo- 
sition of a very great part of what is made and 
sold for common Spanisii snuff. 

To make transparent soap. 

Suet is the basis of ail the soaps ot ilie toilette, 
known by the name of Windsor soap, because 
olive-oil forms a paste too difficult to melt again, 
and contains an odour too strong to he mixed with 
essences. The suet soap dissolved hot in alcohol 
retakes its solid state by cooling. To this fact is 
due the discovery of transparent soap, which, if 
well prepared, has the appearance of fine white 
candied sugar; it may also he coloured, and the 
vegetable hues, for this purpose, are preferable to 
mineral; any person may make tiiis soap, by put- 
ting in a thin glass phial the half of a cake of 
Windsor soap-shavings; fill it with one half of al- 
cohol, and put it near the fire till ihe soap is dis- 
solved; this mixture placed in a mould to cool, 
produces the transparent soap. 
Windsor soap. 

Melt hard curd soap, and scent itwith oil of karni, 
and essence of bergamot, bought at the druggists'; 
or the essence of bergamot may be omitted. 
Almond soup. 

Upon 1 lb. of quicklime pour 3 quarts of boiling 
distilled water; add 1 lb. of salt of tartar dissolved 
in 1 quart of water; cover tlie vessel, and when 
cold, filter through a cotton cloth: a pint should 
■weigli exactly 16 oz. troy; if more, add distilled 
water, and if less, e%'aporate. Then add one-third 
of oil of almonds, simmer them together for some 
hours, or until the oil fornisa jelly; when cool, which 
may be tried on a small quantity, add common salt, 
and then continue boiling till the soap is solid; when 
eold skim off the water, and then pour into moulds. 

Another method. — Take 2 lbs. of soap ley, made 
of barilla or kelp, so strong that a bottle holding 
half a pint of water will hold 11 ounces of the ley, 
and 4 lbs. of oil of almonds; rub them together in 
a mortar, and put the mixture into tin moulds, 
where let it be for some weeks, till tiie combina- 
tion is perfect. 

Marbled soap balls. 

Take 10 lbs. of white oil-soap and 10 lbs. of Jop- 



pa soap. Cut them mto small square pieces, which 
set to dry for three days: the oil-soap, particularly, 
must be thus dried. 

Scrape, very finely, five pounds of oil soap, 
which dry, for one day, in the open air; mix it 
well in the shaving-box, with five pounds of pow- 
der, add an ounce and a half of the best vermilion. 

In mixing, place pieces of soap and coloured 
powder, in layers in the box, making, in all, four 
alternate layers of each. When a layer of each 
has been placed in the box, sprinkle a pint of rose 
water over the cut soap; for if it be much combin- 
ed with the powder, it will become lumpy and 
hard, and consequently spoil the wash-balls. The 
same quantity of water is to be used for moistening 
each of the other 'soap layers. Next mix a pint 
of thin starch, which has been well boiled in half 
a pint of rainwater, with half a pint of rose w;iter, 
and distribute it, equally well mixed, among the 
mass, by turning it over repeatedly, and then press 
it down close with the hands. If a piece be now 
cut out from the mass, the operator will perceive 
whether the marbling is sufficiently good; and if so, 
he may proceed immediately to form his wash- 
balls. 

To imitate JVaples soap. 

Take of fresh ley, strong enough to bear an egg, 
eight pounds; and put to it of (leer's, goat's,"or 
lamb's suet, (which has previously been well cleans- 
ed from all skins, &c. by rose water) two pounds, 
and one pound of olive oil, or rather behn-nut oil. 
Let all these simmer over the fire in a well glazed 
pot, imtil it be pretty nearly of the consistence of 
crown or Naples soap; then turn it out into a large 
flat pan, which set on the leads or roof of the house, 
exposed to the heat of tlie sun for fifty days. The i,l 
pan must" be covered over with a bell glass, such 
as the gardeners use, and the mixture must be stir- 
red well once a day, during the whole of this time. 

In about six weeks or two months, the operator 
will have a most excellent ground work for Naples 
soap, which only i-equires perfuming in the fol- 
lowing manner, to render it even preferable to the 
foreign sorts. 

Take of oil of rhodium, one ounce, of spirit of 
ambergris, two ounces and a half, spirit of musk, 
half an ounce; mix these well together, and then 
put the compound into the pan of soap. Stir the 
whole well, and incorporate the perfumes with the 
soap, on a marble stone by means of a muUer. Put 
up into small jars, or preserve in a mass in a large 
jar, according to sale or convenience. If kept for 
12 months, this soap will be found by comparison, 
to be tar preferable to the best soap that ever came 
from Naples. 



INKS, &c. 



A fine black ink, for common purposes and for the 
copying press. 
Put Aleppo galls, well bruised, 4^ oz. and log- 
wood chipped, 1 oz. with 3 pints soft water, into 
a stoneware mug: slowly boil, until one quart re- 
inains: add, well powdered, the pure green crys- 
tals ot sulphate ot iron, 2^ oz. blue vitriol or ver- 
digris, (I think the latter better,) \ oz. gum arable, 
2 oz. and brown sugar, 2 oz. Shake it occasion- 
ally a week after making: then after standing a 
day, decant and cork. To prevent moulding add a 
Uttle brandy or alcohoL 



The common copperas will not answer so vJ^i^ 
as it has already absorbed oxygen. 

To make common black ink. 

Pour a gallon of boiling soft water on a pound 
of powdered galls, previously put into a proper 
vessel. Stop the mouth of the vessel, and set it 
in the sun in summer, or in winter where it may 
be warmed by any hre, and let it stand (wo or three 
days. Then add half a pound of green vitriol pow- 
dered, and having stirred the mixtUTe well toge- 
ther with a wooden spatula, let it stand again for 
two or lliree days, repeating \ha stirring, whea 

a 



194 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



add further to it 5 ounces of gnm arabie dissolved 
in a quait of boiling water, and lastly, 2 ounces of 
alum, after whicli let the ink be strained through a 
coarse linen cloth for use. 

Another. — A good and durable black ink may be 
made by the following directions: To 2 pints of 
•water aild 3 ounces of the dark coloured rough- 
skinned Aleppo galls in gross powder, and of rasp- 
ed logwood, green vitriol, and gum arable, each, 
1 oz. 

This mixture is to be put into a convenient ves- 
sel, and well shaken four or five times a day, for 
ten or twelve days, at the end of which time it 
vill be fit for use, though it will improve by re- 
maining longer on tlie ingi-edients. Vinegar in- 
stead of water makes a deeper coloured ink; but 
its action on pens soon sjjoils tliem. 
Shining black ink. 

Beat up well together in an iron mortar the fol- 
lowing ingredients in a dry state; viz. S oz. of best 
blue gall-nuts, 4 oz. of coi)peras, or sulphate of 
iron, 2 oz. of clear gum arabie, and 3 pints ol clear 
rain water. 

When propeily powdered, put to the above; let 
the wliole be shaken in a stone bottle three or foru- 
times a day, for seven days, and at the end of that 
time, pour the liquor off gently into anoiher stone 
bottle, whicli place in an airy situation to prevent 
it from becoming foul or mothery. When used put 
the liquor into the ink-stand as required. 
Process for making the best ink. 

Take 6 quarts (beer measure) of clear water, 
soft or hard, and boil in it for about an hour, 4 oz. 
of the best Campcachy logwood, chipped very thin 
across the grain, adding, from time to lime, boiling 
■water to supply in part the loss by evaporation; 
strain the liquor while hot, and suffer iUo cool. If 
the liquor is then short of 5 quarts, malie it equal 
to this quantit}', by the addition of cold water. 
After which, let 1 15. of bruised blue galls, or 20 
oz. of the best common galls, be added. Let a 
paste be prepared by triturating 4 oz. of sulphate 
of iron (green vitriol) calcined to whiteness, and 
let half an ounce of acetite of copper (verdigris) 
be well incorporated together with the above de- 
coction, into a mass, throwing in also, 3 oz. of 
coarse brown sugar, and 6 oz. of gum Senegal, or 
Arabic. Put the materials into a stone bottle of 
such a size as to half fill it; let the mouth be left 
open, and shake the bottle well, twice or thrice a 
day. In about a fortnight it may be filled, and kept 
in w;;ll stopped bottles lor use. It requires to be 
protected from the frost, which would considerably 
injure it. 
Jndelible black ink without galls or green vitriol. 

Infuse a pound of pomegranate peels, broken to 
a gross powder, for 24 liours in a gallon and a half 
of water, and afterwards boil the mixture till l-3d 
of the fluid be wasted. Tlien add to it 1 lb. of 
Roman vitriol, and 4 oz. of gum arabie powdered, 
and contiime the boiling till the vitriol and gum 
be dissolved, after which the ink must be strained 
through a coarse linen cloth, when it will be fit 
for use. 

This ink is somewhat more expensive, and yet 
not so good in hue as that made by the general 
method; but the colour which it has is not liable 
to vanish or fade in any length of time. 
Indestructible ink for resisting the action of corro- 
sive substances. 

On many occasions, it is of importance to em- 
ploy an ink indestructible by any process, that will 
not equally destroy the material on which it is ap- 
plied. For black ink, 25 grains of copal, in pow- 
der, are to be dissolved in 200 grains of oil of la- 
vender, by the assistance of a gentle heal; and are 
tiien to be mixed with 2^ grains of lamp black, and 



^ a grain of indigo: for red ink use 120 grains ol 
oil of lavender, 17 grains of copal, and GO grains 
of vermilion. A little oil of lavender, or of tur- 
pentine, may be added, if the ink be found too 
thick. A mixture of genuine asphaltum dissolved 
in oil of turpentine, amber varnish, and lamp-black, 
would be still svperior. 

This ink is particularly useful for labelling 
phiais, &c. containing chemical or corrosive sub- 
stances. 

Best ink poivder. 

Infuse a pound of galls powdered, and' 3 ounces 
of j)omegranate peels, in a gidlon of soft water for 
a week, in a gentle lieat, aiial then strain off the 
fluid through a coarse linen cloth. Then add to it 
8 oz. of vitriol dissolved in a quart of water, and 
let them remain for a day or tivo, preparing in the 
meantime a dt^coction of logwood, by boiling a 
pound of the chips in a gallon of water, till 1-3(1 
be wasted, and then straining the remaining fluid 
while it is hot. Mix the decoction and the solu- 
tion of galls and vitriol together, and aiid 5 oz. of 
guni arabie, and then evaporate the mixture over 
a common fire to al)out 2 quarts, when the remain- 
der must be put into a vessel proper for that pur- 
pose, and retluced to dryness, by hanging the ves- 
sel in boiling water. The mass left, after the flunl 
has wholly exhaled, must be well ])Owdered; and 
when wanted for use, may be converted into ink 
by the addition of water. 

Another. — Compositions were also formerly 
made for portable, or extemporaneous inks, with- 
out galls or vitriol, of one of which the following 
is a recipe: — Take ^ a pound of honey, and the 
yolk of an egg, and mix them well together. Add 

2 drachms of gum arable finely levigated, and 
thicken the whole with lamp-black to tiie consist- 
ence of a stift' paste, which, being put to a proper 
quantity of water, may be used as ink. 

Ink pOTjder for immediate %ise. 
Reduce into subtle powder 10 oz. of gall-nuts, 

3 oz. of Roman vitriol, (green copperas,) with 2 
oz. each of roche alum and gum arable. Then put 
a little of this mixture into a glass of white wine, 
and it will be fit for instant use. 

Another. — Take equal parts of black rosin, burnt 
peach or apricot stones, vitriol and gall-nuts, and 
2 of gum arable, put the whole in powder or cake 
as required. 

Exchequer ink. 

To 40 pounds of galls, add 10 pounds of gum, 9 
pounds of copperas, and 45 gallons of soft water. 
This ink will endui'e for centuries. 
lied Ink. 

Take of the raspings of Brazil wood a quarter of 
a pound, and infuse them two or three days in vi- 
negar, which should be colourless where it can be 
so procured. Boil the infusion an hour over a gen- 
tle fire, and afterwards filter it, while hot, through 
paper laid in an earthenware cullender. Put it 
again over the fire, and dissolve in it, first ^ an 
ounce of gum arable, and afterwards of alum and 
white sugar, each 1-2 an ounce. Cane should be 
taken that the Brazil wood be not adulterated with 
the Braslletto or Campeachy wood. 

Ot/ier pi-eparations. — lied ink may likewise be 
prepared, by the above process, of white wine in- 
stead of vinegar; but it should be sour, or disposed to 
be so, otherwise, a third or fourlh of vinegar should 
be added, in order to ils taking the stronger tinc- 
ture from the wood. Small beer has been some- 
tii.ies used tor the same purpose, but ti>e ink will 
not be so bright, and when it is used, vinegar 
should be added, the quantity of gum arable di- 
minished, and the sugar wholly omitted. 
Jied ink from vermilion. 

Take the glair of ioar eggs, a tea-spoonful of 



INKS, &c. 



195 



white sngar, or sugar candy, beaten to a powder, 
and as much spirit of wine; beat them together, 
till they are of the consistence of oil; then add such 
a proportion of vennilion as will ])roduce a red 
colour sufficiently strong; and keep tlie mixture in 
a small phial or veil-stopped ink-bottle for use. 
The composition should be well shaken together 
before it is used. 

Instead of the glair of eggs, gum water is fre- 
quently used; but thin size, made of isinglass, with 
a little honey, is much better for tlie purpose. 
Permanent red ink. 

Take of oil of lavender, 120 grains, of copal in 
powder, 17 grains, red sulphuret of mercury, 60 
grains. Tiie oil of lavender being dissipated with a 
gentle heat, a colour will be left on the paper sur- 
rounded with the copal; a substance insoluble in 
water, spirits, acids, or alkaline solutions. 

This composition possesses a permanent colour, 
and a IMS. written with it, may be exposed to the 
process commonly used for restoring tlie colour of 
printed books, without injury to the writing. In 
this manner interpolations with common ink may 
be removed. 

Green 7i'ri!ing ink. 

Take an ounce of verdigris, and having powder- 
ed it, put to it a quart of vinegar, kc. after it has 
stood two or tliree days strain off tlie liquid; or, 
instead of this, use tlie crystals of verdigris dis- 
solved in water; then dissolve, in a pint of either 
of these solutions, five drachi;.i of gum ai'abic, and 
two drachms of white sugar. 

Yelloxu -writing ink. 

Boil tM'o ounces of tlie French berries in a quart 
of water, with half an ounce of alum, till one-third 
of the fluid be evaporated. Then dissolve in it 
two drachms of gum arable, and one drachm of 
sugar, and afterwards a drachm of alui^ powdered. 
Blue ink. 

This may be made by dift'using Prussian blue, 
or indigo, ihrough strong gum-water. The com- 
mon water-colour cakes, diiiused in water, will 
make sufficiently good coloured inks for most pur- 
poses. 

Copper plate printers^ ink. 

Ink for the rolling-press is made of linseed oil, 
burnt in the same manner as that for common 
printing ink; and is then mixed with Frankfort- 
black, fihel}' ground. There are no certain pro- 
portions which can be determined in this kind of 
ink; eveiy worliman adding oil or black to his ink, 
as lie thinks proper, in order to make it suit his 
purpose. Some, however, mix a portion of com- 
moo boiled cil which has never been burnt: but 
this must necessarily be a bad practice, as such oil 
is apt to go through the paper; a fault veiy com- 
mon in pp-ints, especially if the paper is not very 
thick. No soap is added; because the ink is not 
cleared oft' from the copper-plates, with alkaline 
ley, as in common printing, but witli a brush dip- 
ped in oil. 

Anotlier method. — Instead of Frankfort, or other 
kinds of black commonly used, the following com- 
position may be substituted, and will form a much 
deeper and more beautiful black, than can be ob- 
tained by any other method. Take of the deepest 
Prussian blue five parts, and of the deepest co- 
loured lake and brown pink, each one part. 
Grind tliem well with oil of turpentine, and after- 
wards with the strong and weak oils in the man- 
ner and proportion above directed. The colours 
need not be bright for this purpose, but they should 
be the deepest of the kind, and perfectly transpa- 
rent in oil, as the whole effect depends on tliat 
quality. 

Printers^ ink. 

T«u or twelve gallons of nut-oil are set over the 



fire, in a large iron pot, and brought to boil. It 
is then stirred with an iron ladle; and whilst boiling 
the inflammable vapour arising from it either takes 
fire of itself, or is kindled, and is suffered to burn 
in this way for about half an hour, the pot being 
partially covered, so as to regulate the body of the 
flame, and consequently, the heat commiuiicated 
to the oil. It is frequently stirred during this time, 
that the whole may be heated equally; otherwise, 
a part would be charred, and the rest left imper- 
fect. The flame is then extinguished bv entirely 
covering the pot. The oil, by this process, has 
much of its unctuous quality destroyed, and when 
cold is of the consistence of soft turpentine: it is 
then called varnish. After this, it is made into 
ink, by mixture with the requisite quantity of lamp- 
black; of which about 2^ ounces are sufficient for 
16 ounces of the prepared oil. The oil loses, by 
the boiling, about an eighth of its weight, and emits 
very off'ensive fumes. Several other additions are 
j made to the oil during the boiling, sucli as crusts 
' of bread, onions, and sowietimes turpentine. These 
are kept secret by the preparers. The intention 
of them is more effectually to destroy part of the 
unctuous quality of oil, to give it more" body, to en- 
able it to adhere better to the wetted paper, and to 
spread on the types neatly and uniformly. 

Besides these additions, otiiers are made by the 
printers, of which the most important is a little 
fine indigo in pow der, to improve the beauty of the 
colour. 

Another method. — I lb. of lamp-black, ground 
very fine, or run through a lawn sieve, 2 ounces 
of Prussian blue, ground very fine; 4 ounces of lin- 
seed oil, well boiled and skimmed, 4 ounces of 
spirit of turpentine, very clear, 4 ounces of soft 
varnish, or neat's foot oil. To be well boiled and 
skimmed, and, while boiling, the top burned off' by 
several times ap[)lying lighted paper. Let these 
be well mixed, then put the whole in a jug, place 
that in a pan, and boil them very carefully one 
hour. 

A fine black printing ink. 
Less turpentine and oil, without Prussian blue, 
for common ink. 

Best printing ink. 
In a secured iron pot, (fire outside when possi- 
ble), boil 12 gallons of nut oil; stir with iron ladle, 
long handle; while boiling, put an iron cover part- 
ly over, set the vapour on fire by lighted paper of- 
ten applied, keep well stirring, and on the fire, one 
hour at least f or till the oily particles are burnt), then 
add 1 pound of onions cut in pieces, and a few 
crusts of bread, to get out the residue of oil ; also 
varnish, 16 oz. fine lamp-black, 3 ounces, ground 
indigo, ^ ounce, lloil well one hour. 
Good common printing ink. 
Take 16 ounces of varnish, 4 ounces of linseed 
oil, well boiled, 4 ounces of clear oil of turpen- 
tine, 16 ounces of fine lamp-black, 2 ounces of 
Prussian blue, fine, 1 ounce of indigo, fine. Eoil 
one hour. 

Printers' red ink. 
Soft varnish and vermilion with white of cgs, 
not very tiiick. Common varnish, red-lead, and 
orange. 

Bhie. — Prussian blue, and a little ivory-black, 
with varnish and eggs ver)' thick. Common indigo 
and varnish; then wash off" with boiling lees. 
Perpetual ink for iiiscriptions on tomb stones, mar- 
bles, &c. 
This ink is formed by mixing about three parts 
of pit^h with one part of lamp-black, and making 
them incorporate by melting the pitch. "With this 
composition, used in a melted state, the letters are 
filled, and will, without extraordinary violence, erv 
dure as long as the stone itself. 



196 



trXlVERSAL RECEIPT BOOR. 



Indian ink. » 

Let ivorv or lami>.black be mixed with a small 
portion of Prussian blue or indigo, for a blue black, 
and let the same blacks be united with raw or 
bui-nt umber, bistre, Vandyke or any other brown, 
instead of the b!ue, for a brown black. These 
should be mixed together in a weak gum-water, 
(perhaps matt-work would answer tlie purpose bet- 
ter) first levigating them very fine, in common wa- 
ter, on a marble slab. When dried to tlie consis- 
tence of a paste, let the glutinous matter be well 
mixed with them. That will be found sufficiently 
strong, which binds the composition, so as to pre- 
vent rubbing off by the touch. Indian ink draw- 
ings should be handled as slightly as possible. 
Too much gum ia the composition will create an 
offensive gloss. 

Anothei- method. — Take of isinglass, 6 oz., and 
12 oz. of soft water; make into size; add 1 oz. of re- 
fined liquorice, ground up with I oz. of genuine 
ivory-black, and stir the whole well. Evaporate 
the water in balneum marise; and form the sticks 
or cakes. 

Jl substitute for Indian ink. 

Boil parchment slips, or cuttings of glove leather, 
in water till it forms a size, which, when cool, be- 
comes of the consistence of jelly, then, having 
blackened an earthen plate, by holding it over the 
flame of a candle, mix up with a camel hair pencil, 
the fine lamp-black thus obtained, with some of the 
above size, while the plate is still warm. This 
black requires no grinding, and produces an ink of 
the same colour, which works as freely with the 
pencil, and is as perfectly transparent as the best 
Indian ink. 

Permanent ink for marking linen. 

Take a drachm of nitrate of silver (lunar caus- 
tic), dissolve it in a glass mortar in double its 
■tt-eight of pure water; add to tliis solution 10 drops 
of nitric acid: this is the ink. In another glass 
vessel dissolve a drachm of salt of tartar in 1^ oz. 
of water; this is usually named the liquid pounce, 
with which the linen is wet previously to tlie ap- 
plication of the ink. 

Another metliod. Take of lunar caustic, two 
drachms, distilled water, 6 oz. Dissolve, and add 

fum water, 2 dr. Dissolve also prepared natron, 
oz. in 4 oz. of water, and add gum water, ^ 
oz. 

Wet the linen where you intend to write with 
this last solution; dry it, and then write upon it 
•with the first liquor, using a clean pen. If potasli 
is used instead of natron, the ink will spread. 
Sympathetic inks. 

Sympathetic inks are such as do not appear after 
they are written with, but which may be made to 
appear at pleasure, by certain means to be used for 
that purpose. A variety of substances have been 
used as sympathetic inks, among which are the 
following: 

Mtro-muriates of gold and tin. 

Write with a solution of gold in aqua regia, and 
let the paper dry gently in the shade. Nothing 
Tvill appear, but draw a sponge over it, wetted 
■with a solution of tin in aqua regia, and the writing 
■will immediately appear of a purple 'tolour/ 
Gallate of iron. 

Write with an infusion of galls, and when the 
■writing is required to appear, dip it into a solution 
of sulphate of iron: the letters will appear black. 
JVitro-muriate of cobalt. 

Pulverise 1 ounce of cobalt, and pour over it 4 
ounces of niU-ic acid in a retort. Digest in a sand 
bath for 6 hours. An ounce of muriate of soda, 
diluted in 4 ounces of water, must now be added; 
filter and preserve the compound. When to be 
used, it must be diluted mth three times its bulk 



of distilled water, to prevent corrosion of the 
paper. 

'I'he nitric acid, alone, will answer the purpose 
without the muriate of scida. The salt here ob- 
tained is seldom a pure salt of cobalt, as iron is so 
often combined willi it; the solution of cobalt and 
iron is green when exposed to iieat: but when a 
pure blue is wished for, the oxide of cobalt must 
be precipitated by pure potass, which re-dissolves 
the oxide of cobalt, and answers as a sympathetic 
ink. This is of a red colour before it is written 
with, and blue after. 

Sympathetic ink of cobalt. 
Digest zaffre in aqua regia, and dilute the solu- 
tion with four times its weight of pure water. Cha- 
racters written with it, do not appear till the paper 
is warmed, when traces of the pen are visible, un- 
der a fine sea-green colour. This colour disap- 
pears as the paper cools, and is renewed on warm- 
ing again: and thus alternately vanishes and re- 
appears, for an interminate number of times. As 
the solution of regulus of cobalt, or zaffre in spirit 
of nitre, acquires a reddish colour, by the appli- 
cation of heat, so a variety of colours may be giv- 
en. Thus landscapes may be sketched with com- 
mon ink, to give a prospect of winter; while tha 
solution of cobalt in aqua regia, on the application 
of heat, gives the verdure of spring; and the ni- 
trous solution may represent fruit, flowers, kc. 

Another sympathetic ink. — Write on paper with 
a solution of nitrate of bismuth, and sme.ar the 
writing over, by means of a feather, with some in- 
fusion of galls. The letters which were before 
invisible, will now appear of a brown colour. If 
the previous use of nitrate of bismuth be concealed 
from the spectators, great surprise will be excited 
by tlie appearance of writing, mei-ely by the dash 
of a feather. The same phenomenon will take 
place, when infusion of galls is written -H'ith, and 
llie salt of bismuth applied afterwards. 

Another. — Write on a sheet of paper, any sen- 
tence with a transparent infusion of gall-nuts, and 
dip the paper in a ti'ansparent solution of the sul- 
phate of iron. The writing, which was before in- 
visible, will now, on a slight exposure to the air, 
turn quite black. A neater way of performing this 
experiment will be by smearing the w ritlen parts 
over with a feather dipped in the solution of the 
metallic salt; it may also be reversed, by writing 
with the salt, and smearing with the infusion- 

Another. — If a letter be written with a solution 
of sulphate of iron, the inscription will be invisi- 
ble; but if it afterwards be rubbed over by a feather, 
dipped in a solution of prussiate of potass, it will 
appear of a beautiful blue colour. 

Another. — Write a letter with a solution of ni- 
trate of bismuth. — The letters will be invisible. 
If a feather be now dipped in a solution of prus- 
siate of potass, and rubbed over the paper, the 
writing will appear of a beautiful yellow colour, 
occasioned by a formation of prussiate of bismuth. 
To prevent ink from freezing iv^-Mnler. 
Instead of water use brandy, 'u;it|M||b*<^nie in- 
gredients which enter into the comoj^Slk of any 
ink, and it will never freeze. > jw' 
To prevent'^wuld inii^s. 
In order to secure the above and Qtlf^ inks from 
growing mouldy, a quarter of ai pint or more of 
spirit oV wine may be added; but to prevent its 
containing any acid, which may injure the ink, a 
little tartar or pearl-ashes shoidd be added, previ- 
ously, and the spirit poured off from it, which will 
render it innocent with regard to the colour of the 
ink. 

Anot/ier method. — The most simple, yet eff^tnal 
metliod, is to infuse a small piece of SiJt aboiU th« 
size of a hazel-nut to eAcb qum-t 



INKS, &c. 



197 



To take oiit spots of ink. 
As soon as the accident happei.s, wet the place 
with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and 
the best hard white soap. 

To make new ~ivriting look old. 
Take a drachm of saffron, and infuse it into half 
a pint of ink, and warm it over a gentle fire, and it 
vill cause whatever is written with it to turn yel- 
low, and appear as if of many years standing. 
2'o turile on greasy paper or parchment. 
Put to a bullock's gall a handful of salt, and a 
quarter of a ])int of vinegar, stir it until it is mixed 
veil; when the paper or parchment is greasy, put 
a drop of the gall into llie ink, and the difficulty 
will be instantly obviated. 

To restore decayed ivritings. 
Cover the letters with ])hlogisticated or prussic 
alkali, witii tlie addition of a diluted mineral acid; 
upon the application of whicli, the letters change 
Tery speedily to a deep blue colour, of great beauty 
and intensity. To prevent the spreading of the 
colour, which, by blotting the parchment, detracts 
greatly from the legibility, the alkali should be put 
on first, and tiie diluted acid added upon it^ The 
method found to answer best has been, to spread 
the alkali thin with a feather or a bit of stick cut 
to a blunt point. Though the alkali should occa- 
sion no sensible change of colour, yet the moment 
the acid comes upon it, every trace of a letter turns 
at once to a fine blue, which soon acquires its full 
intensity, and is beyond comparison stronger than 
llie colour of the original trace. If, then, the cor- 
ner of a bit of blotting paper be carefully and dex- 
terously applied near the letters, so as to imbibe 
the superfluous liquor, the staining of the parcli- 
ment may be in a great measure avoided; for it is 
this su])erfluous liquor which, absorbing part of the 
colouring matter from the letters, becomes a dye 
to whatever it touches. Care must be taken not 
to bring the blotting paper in contact with the let- 
ters, because the colouring matter is soft whilst 
wet, and may easily be rubbed oft". The acid chiefly 
employed is the marine; but both the vitriolic and 
nitrous succeed very well. They should be so far 
diluted as not to be in danger of corroding the 
parchment, after whieli the degree of strength does 
not seem to be a matter of much nicety. 

To take impressions from recent manuscripts. 
This is done by means of fusible metals. In or- 
der to show the application of it, paste a piece of 
paper on the bottom of a china saucer, and allow 
it to dry; then write upon it with common writing 
ink, and sprinkle some finely powdered gum arable 
over the writing, which produces a slight i-elief. 
When it is well dried, and tlie adhering powder 
brushed off, the fusible metal is poured into the 
saucer, and is cooled rapidly, to prevent crystalli- 
zation. The metal then takes a cast of the writing, 
and when it is immersed in slightly warm water, 
to remove adhering gum, impressions may be taken 
from it as from a copper plate. 

Another method. — Put a little sugar into a com- 
mon writing ink, and let the writing be executed 
with this upon common paper, sized as usual. 



"When a copy is required, let unsized paper be 
taken and lightly moistened with a sponge. Then 
a|)ply the wet paper to the writing, and passing 
liglitly a flat-iron, of a moderate heat, such as is 
used by laundresses, over the unsized paper, the 
copy will be immediately produced. This method 
requires no macliine or preparation, and may be 
employed in any situation. 

To produce a facsimile of any -writing. 
The pen should be made of glass enamel; the 
point being small and finely polished; so that the 
part above the point may be large enough to-hold 
as much ink as, or more than a common writing 
pen. 

A mixture of equal parts of Frankfort black, 
and fresh butter, is now to be smeared over sheets 
of paper, and rubbed off after a certain time. The 
paper, thus smeared, is to be pressed for some 
hours; taking care to have sheets of blotting-paper 
between each of the sheets of black paper. When 
tit for use, writing ])aper is put between sheets of 
blackened paper, and the upper sheet is to be writ- 
ten on, with common writing ink, by the glass or 
enamel pen. By this method, not only the copy 
is obtained on which the pen writes, but also, two, 
or more, made by means of the blackened paper. 
Substitute for copying machines. 
In the common ink used, dissolve lump sugar 
(1 drachm to 1 oz. of ink). Moisten the copying-pa- 
per, and then put it in soft cap paper to absorb th« 
superfluous moisture. — Put the moistened paper oa 
the writing, place both between some soft paper, 
and either put the whole in tlie folds of a cai-pet, 
or roll upon a ruler three or four times. 
To copy -writings. 
Take a piece of unsized paper exactly of the 
size of the paper to be copied; moisten it witti 
water, or with the following liquid: Take of dis- 
tilled vinegar, two pounds weight, dissolve it ia 
one ounce of boracic acid; then take four ounces of 
oyster shells calcined to whiteness, and carefully 
freed from their brown crust; put them into the 
vinegar, shake the mixture frequently for twenty- 
four hours, then let it stand till it deposits its 
sediment; filter the clear part through unsized pa- 
per into a glass vessel; then add two ounces of the 
best Aleppo galls bruised, and place the liquor in 
a warm place; shake it frequently for twenty-four 
hours, then filter the liquor again through unsized 
paper, and add to it after filtration, one quart, ale 
measure, of pure water. It must then stand 2-i 
hours; and be filtered again, if it shows a disposi- 
tion to deposit any sediment, which it generally 
does. When paper has been wet with this liquid, 
put it between two thick unsized papers to absorb 
the superfluous moisture; then lay it over the writ- 
ing to be copied, and put a piece of clean writing 
paper above it. Put the whole on tlie board of a 
rolling press, and press them through the rolls, as 
is done in printing copper-plates, and a copy of 
the writing will appear on both sides of the thin 
moistened paper; on one side in a reversed order 
and direction, but on the other side in the natural 
order and direction of the Hues. 



msDzcii^s. 



General rules for treating diseases. 
Jtule 1. — In every complaint, whatever it may 
B called, if you find tlie pulse quick, hard, full, 



and strong, — (he head ach, — tongue foul, — skin 
hot, or those maiks which denote it of an inflam- 
matory nature, remember the plan is to reduce it 

£2 



198 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



by bleeding,— purging, — low diet, — drinking plen- 
tifully of colli water and lemonrtde, — rest, &.o. 

Jf.iile 2. — If on the conlrnrj', the pulse be small, 
soft, feeble, and intermitting, — the tongue dark, 
and great debility or weakiless is evident, reverse 
the whole plan; the diet must be generous and 
nourishing, — the bowels opened witli gentle laxa- 
tives, — and the strength supported by bark, sul- 
phate of quinine, wine and tonics of various kinds. I 

It is necessary, however, to be careful in distin- ' 
guishing the weakness which is here meant, from 
that state of debility wliich arises from excessive 
action, from the stuffing up of the vessels, and 
vhich requires the lancet. As a mistake might 
prove fatal, attention should be paid to the puTse, 
by which they can be easily known. In that state 
■which requires tonics, the pulse is small, soft, — 
sometimes like a thread and quick. In the other, 
it is slower and full, giving considerable resistauce 
to the pressure of the finger. 

liule 3. — If in addition to those symptoms men- 
tioned in the second rule, the tongue be covered 
■with a black coat,— foul daik looking sores form 
about the gums and insides of the clieeks, — the 
breath be offensive, &cc. the same class of reme- 
dies is to be vigorously employed, with a free use 
of acids and other atitiseptic articles. 

Hide 4. — Severe local pains, as in the head, side, 
&c. require the use of the lancet, purging and blis- 
ters to the part. 

JiiUe 5. — Incessant and earnest entreaties on the 
part of the sick, for, or longing after, any particular 
article of diet, if steadily persevered in, may be 
safely indulged, whether the use of it agrees or not 
■with our pre-conceived ideas on the subject. 

liule G. — In all fevers, where the pulse is quick, 
full and strong, — tlie skin burning to tlie touch, 
and there is no perspiration, dasii cold water over 
the head and slioulders of the patient, wipe him 
dry and put him to bed. If in consequence of this, 
a chill be experienced, and the pulse sink, give 
■warm wine, &c. and omit the w aler for the future. 
Should a pleasant glow, over the whole frame, fol- 
low the allusion, and the patient feel relieved by 
it, repeat it as often as may be necessary. 

Utile 7. — Observe carefully, the eftects of vari- 
ous articles of food, as well as physic, upon your 
own body, and chooss those which experience 
proves to agree best with you. It is a vulgar but 
true saying, that " What is one man's meat is ano- 
ther's poison." 

Hide 8. — Keep a sick room always well venti- 
lated. Plenty of fresh air is an important reme- 
dial agent in all diseases. 

It is not meant by tiiis that the patient should 
be exposed to a direct current of air, which should 
be always avoided by well and sickr 



OF THE PULSE. 

The pulse is nothing more than the beating of 
an artery. Every time the heart contracts, a por- j 
tioa of blood is forced into the arteries, whicii di- 
late or swell to let it pass, and then immediately 
regain their former size, until by a second stroke 
of the same organ, a fresh column of blood is push- 
ed through them, when a similar action is repeat- 
ed. This swelling and contracting of the arteries 
then constitutes the pulse, and consequently it may 
be found in every part of the body where those 
vessels run near enough to the surface to be felt. 
Physicians look for it at tlie wrist, from motives 
of convenience. 

The strength and velocity of the pulse vaiy much 
in different persons, even in a state of perfect 
health. It is much quicker iu children than in 



adults; and iu old men, it grows more slow an<l 
feeble, owing to the decreased energy of the heart. 
The pulse is increased botli in strength and veloci- 
ty by running, walking, riding, and jumping; by 
eating, drinking, singing, speaking, and by joy, 
anger, kc. It is diminished in like manner, by 
fear, want of nourishment, melancholy, excessive 
evacuations, or by whatever tends to debilitate tlie 
system. 

In feeling the pulse then in sick persons, allow- 
ance should be made for these causes, or what is 
better, we should wait until their temporai-y ef- 
fects have ceased. 

A full, tense and strong pulse, is when the ar- 
tery swells boldly under the linger, and resists its 
pressure more or less; if, in addition to this, the 
pulsation be very rapid, it is called quick, full, 
and strong; if slow, the contrary. 

A hard, corded pulse, is tiiat in whicli the arte- 
17 feels like the string of a violin, or a piece of 
tightened cat-gut, giving considerable resistance 
to the pressure of the fiuger. 

Tiie soft, and intermitting pulses, are easily 
known by their names. In cases of extreme de- 
bility, on the approach of death, and in some par- 
ticular diseases, the artery vibrates-under the fin- 
ger like a thread. 

In feeling the pulse, three or four fingers should 
be laid on it at once. The most convenient spot 
to do this, as already mentioned, is the wrist, but 
it can be readily done in the temple, just before, 
and close to the ear, in the bend of llie arm, at the 
under part of the lower end of the thigh, among 
the hamstrings, and on the top of the foot. 

There are two kinds of blood-vessels in the hu- 
man body: arteries and veins. I'he arteries carry 
the blood from the heart to the extremities of the 
body, where they are connected with the veins 
which bring it hack again. An artery pulsates or 
beats; a vein does not. 



OP FEVER. 



Fever is, by far, the most common complamtto 
which the human body is subject. It may be brief- 
ly described as a combination of heat, thirst, loss 
of appetite, weakness, and inability to sleep. It 
makes its appearance in two ways: either sudden- 
ly aiul violently, or gradually and gently. When 
it comes on in the first manner, a cold shaking, at- 
tended with sickness at the stomach, or vomiting, 
marks it access; tlie cold is more severe than in 
tiie latter, as is also the pain in the head, and other 
.•iymptoms. When its attack is gradual, a feeling 
of soreness over the whole body, such as is expe- 
rienced after a hard daj's work by one not accus- 
tomed to it, shows its approach. Nausea, pains in 
the head, chills, and more or less heat and thirst 
soon follow. 

As these symptoms vary infinitely in their de- 
grees of violence, the vigour of the treatment to be 
pursut;d, must differ accordingly. Thus the same 
directions that are given for simple inflammatory 
fever, must be adhered to, in one whose symptoms 
are lighter, though similar, only there is no ne- 
cessity for pushing them to so great an extent. 

Simple hifl animator y fever. 

Symptoms. — Chills, tiushed face, skin hot, eyes 

red, pulse quick, full, strong, and regular, great 

tliirst, tongue white, urine high-coloured and small 

in quantity, bowels costive, breathing quick, &c. 

Causes. — Cold, violent exercise, while exposed 
to the heat of the sun, intemperance, the indul- 
gence of unruly passions. 

Treatment. — iJleed the patient at the very be* 



MEDICINE. 



199 



ginning of the attack. The quantity of blood to 
be taken, should be regulated by the strength and 
age of the person, and tlie violence of the synap- 
toms. In this country, wliere diseases are very 
acute, from 1'2 to 15 ounces is an average quantity 
for a robust man. If ttiere be great pain in the 
nead, shave it and apply a blister, or cloths wrung 
out of iced vinegar and water, frequently renewed. 
The bowels are to be freely opened, with Epsom 
or glauber salts, and the diet should consist of 
plenty of cold water, rice water, or lemonade. If 
the heat of the body he excessive and burning to 
the touch, and there is no perspiration, take the 
patient out of his bed, support him on his feet, and 
let several buckets of cold water be poured over 
his head and shoulders, in rapid succession, then 
wipe him dry and replace him in bed; should he 
not be able to stand, lay him on the Hoor, and dash 
the water over him in that position. If from ex- 
cessive weakness, or a groundless fear of the con- 
sequences, this is objected to, sponge the whole 
body with cold vinegar and water. All these re- 
medies are to be repeated, until the disease is over- 
come. If there be intense pain in the head or side, 
apply a blister. The saline mixture, below, will 
be found useful throughout^ and to promote per- 
spiration, five or six grains of Dover's powder, 
taking care not to drink any thing for some time 
after it. An emetic, at the very onset, sometimes 
cuts short the disease. Tlie room should be k(?pt 
quiet, cool and dark, every source of excitement 
being removed. 

Saline mixture. — Salt of tartar, 2 drachms, wa- 
ter, 6 ounces. When the tartar is dissolved, add 
by degrees portions of fresh lemon juice till it 
ceases to effervesce. A table-spoonful may be ta- 
ken every half hour. 

Intermittent, or fever and affile. 

Of this fever, there are several varieties, which 
dlfterfromeachotheronly in the length of time that 
elapses between their attacks. There is one call- 
ed qtiotidian, in which it comes on every twenty- 
four hours; another named tertian, in which it ar- 
rives every forty-eight hours, and the third quar- 
tan, because the interval lasts seventy-two hours. 

Symptoms. — The symptoms of fever and ague 
are, unfortunately, too well known among us, com- 
mencing with yawning, stretching and uneasi- 
ness; this is succeeded by slight chills or shiver- 
jngs, that end in a violent or convulsive shaking 
of the whole body. This is the cold fit, and is 
immediately followed by the fever or hot fit. The 
pulse rises, the skin becomes hot, pain in the head, 
tongue white, and all the marks of fever, termina- 
ting in a profuse sweat, which gradually subsiding, 
leaves the patient in his natural state, tliough 
Eomewhat weakened. 

Treatment. — On the first alarm that is given by 
a chill, or any of those feelings indicative of its ap- 
proach, take 50 or GO drops of laudanum, in a glass 
of warm wine, with a little sugar and a few drops 
of the essence of peppermint, get into bed, and 
cover yourself with several blankets; this seldom 
fails to cut short the disease. If the cold fit. how- 
ever, has passed by, the next accession should be 
carefully watched, and the same remedy resorted 
to. If the inilammatory symptoms seem to require 
it, bleed and open the bowels with senna and salts; 
when this is done, in the intervals use a qUiuine 
pill of one grain every hour; if it cannot be pro- 
cured, take as large doses of Peruvian bark as the 
stomach will bear; in addition to this, endeavour 
during the cold fit to bring on the hot one, as spee- 
dily as possible, by warm drinks, bladders or bot- 
tles filled with warm water applied to the soles 
of the teet and the stomach. Weak whiskey punch 



answers this purpose very well, it also is of use by 
inducing sweat, when the hot stage is formed. If 
the disease resists this treatment, ti-y 6 drops of 
Fowler's solution of arsenic three times a day, 
with the hark, gradually increasing it to 9 or 10 
drops at each dose. As this is a powerful remedy, 
care must be taken to watch its effects; if it produce 
sickness .it the stomach, it must he laid aside. To 
restore the tone of the system when getting better, 
remove to a healthy pure .-"ir, use gentle and daily 
exercise, with a generous diet, wine and bitters. 
If the li'^er or spleen become affected, reeourso 
must be had to mercury. 

N. B. Much mischief is done by giving either 
the quinine or the bark too early in the disease, 
and before its inflammatory stage is passed. It 
should never be employed until the bowels h.ive 
been well opened and the inflammation reduced. 

Remittent fever. 

This is a kind of fever which occasionally abates, 
but does not entirely cease, before a fresh attack 
comes on, so that the patient is never completely 
free from it. The symptoms are of three kinds. 
When bile predominates, it is called Bilious Re- 
mittent or Bilious Fever, which in a highly aggra- 
vated state is the true yellow fever of the United 
States and West Indies. This constitutes the first 
kind of remittent. 

The second is marked by debility, when it is 
called typlius or low nervous fever. 

The third exhibits all those marks of debiliAy 
and putresceucy, whicli constitute putrid fever. 

Bilious fever. 

Symptoms. — In this disease all the marks of 
great excitement and a superfluity of bile are visi- 
ble; the skin is hot, the pulse tense and full, tongue 
white in the commencement, changing to brown, 
as the fever increases, breathing hurried and anx- 
ious, bowels very costive, and skin of a yellowish 
hue. In bad cases, there is great pain in the head, 
delirium, the patient picks at the bed clothes, a 
convulsive jerking of the tendons at the wrist, 
tongue black and' furred, a deep yellow skin, vo- 
miting of a dark matter, that looks like coffee 
grounds, and hiccup. When the latter symptoms 
prevail, it is called yellow fever. 

Causes. — A peculiar poisonous vapour from 
ponds, marslies, and decaying vegetable matter. 

Treatment. — This must be conducted on our 
general principles. As the inflammatory and bili- 
ous symptoms are the most prevalent at the com- 
mencement, bleed the patient freely, and repeat 
the operation if the pulse seems to require it. The 
next step is to cleanse the stomach with an emetic, 
which having operated, open his bowels with 
calomel. The lancet and calomel are the two 
sheet-anchors in this disease, and irresolution 
or timidity, in the employment of them at the 
beginning of it, may cost the sufferer nis life. 
From ten to twenty or thirty grains of calomel, 
combined with a portion of jalap^ may be givea 
in molasses, and repeated until copious_ evacu- 
ations are produced. The quantity of this medi- 
cine (calomel) that is required to dislodge the ac- 
cumulation in the bowels, in some cases of this 
complaint, is almost incredible to those who have 
had no experience of it. If the pain in the head 
be very great, shave it and apply a blister. Should 
the skin be very hot, and great thirst and restless- 
ness prevail, dash cold water over the body, as di- 
rected in simple inflammatory fever. The diet 
should consist of rice-water, lemonade, &c. taking 
care to keep up a discharge from the bowels by- 
purgatives, during the whole of the disease. 

It, however, in spite of all endeavours to the 



200 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



contrary, the complaint seems advancing, endea- 
vour to brino; on a salivation, as quickly as possible. 
To effect this, one of the powders below. No. 1, 
may be taken every three liours. In cases which 
hear a threatening aspect from the beginning, it is 
perhaps the safest plan, having previously bled and 
jmrged, to salivate at once, and without waiting till 
the secondary and more dangerous symptoms show 
themselves. ' The moment the mouth is affected, 
and the patient begins to spit, omit the medicine. 
As soon as symptoms of pulrescency make their 
appearance, no mercury should be given internally; 
on the contrary, bark, wine, acids, k;c. are neces- 
sary to support the patient, who should be kept 
clean, cool, and comfortable, excluding all noise. 
The extreme irruability of the stomach, which is 
frequently found in bilious fever, may be overcome 
by the saline draught, in a slate of efTervescence, 
(to be foimd in page 199), and in the latter stage of 
It, when the pulse flags, and the system appears sink- 
ing, the quinine mixture. No. 2, has been found ex- 
tremely useful. Blisters and mustard poultices may 
also be applied in this case to the ankles, tliiglis and 
■wrists. Rubbing the body freely with the decoction 
of Spanish flies in turpentine, and the internal use 
of the quinine, ace invaluable remedies in all such 
cases, and should never be omitted. 

There are in fact two distinct stages in this dis- 
ease that require two different plans of treatment. 
The first is bilious and inflammatory, and should 
be met by bleeding, vomiting, purging with calo- 
mel, or a salivation, blisters to the head, and the 
affusion of cold water. 

The second is putrid and bilious, and must be 
treated by wine, brandy, the quinine mixture, 
sound porter, and the peculiar plan recommended 
in putrid fever; always recollecting that if we can 
bring on a salivation early in the disease, we have 
a fair chance of saving our patient. 

No. I. Salivating poxoders. — Calomel, 6 grains, 
antimonial powder, 3 grains. 

No. 2. Quinine mixture. — Sulphate of quinine, 
13 grains, powdered gum arable, 1 drachm, loaf 
sugar half an ounce, water, 6 oz. essence of pepper- 
mint, 5 drops. Shake the bottle well eacii time it is 
poured out. The dose is a table-spoonful every hour. 

Typhus, or loxo nervous fever. 

Svmptoms. — Languor, debility, dejection of 
mind, alternate flushes of heat and chills, loathing 
of food, confusion of ideas. These are succeeded 
by vertigo, pain in the head, difficulty of breath- 
ing, frequent weak, and sometimes intermitting 
puise, the tongue dry, and covered with a brown 
fur, the teeth and gums being encrusted with the 
same, the forehead is covered with sweat, while 
the hands are dry and glow with heat, the patient 
talks wildly. 

Causes. — Contagion, grief, whatever tends to 
weaken the system, a poor diet, living in close, 
filthy apartments, inordinate venereal indulgences. 
Distinguish it from putrid fever by the attack com- 
ing on more grjidually, and by the greater mildness 
of the symptoms, by the want of those putrid marks 
mentioned in the former, and by the absence of 
■vomiting. 

Treatment. — If the bowels be costive, give some 
gentle laxative, as rhubarb, or six or eight grains 
of calomel, with as many of jalap. As soon as 
this has operated, or even before, (if the weakness 
of the patient seem to require it) exhibit wine as 
freely as the stomach will bear, not only as a drink, 
but mixed with his food, which should be sago, 
tapioca, panada, jellies, &c. If no wine is to be 
liad, brandy, and porter (an important article, when 
good) are to be freely employed, always remem- 
.berJDg, that if the strength of the patient be not 



supported by these means, he will die of debilitr- 
Divshiiig cold water over the body is a remedy in 
this disease of great value. If delirium or insen- 
sibility come on, shave the head and apply a blister 
to it, or cloths wrung out of iced vinegar and wa- 
ter. If a purging ensue, it must be stopped, or it 
will prove fatal; this may be done by the mixture. 
No. 1, and by opium, which should be given 
throughout the disease in liberal doses every night. 
The Cayenne mixture. No. 2, musk mixture, No. 
3, and the camphor mixture. No. 4, will also be 
found useful. Great reliance is now placed upon 
the sulphate of quinine, which may be taken in 
doses of two or three grains, four times a day, dis- 
solved in a little gum arable tea, or in pills. 

The order of remedies then, in typhus fever, is 
to open the bowels with laxatives, to use wine, 
brandy, porter and opium, freely, to dash cold wa- 
ter over the body, to give chicken water, jellies, 
tapioca, sago, kc. to check purging, keep the room 
cool and clean, use the quinine mixture, one or all 
of the different mixtures of camphor, musk i>r 
Cayenne pepi)er, to give opium every night, and if 
delirium come on, to apply blisters to the head. 
Bleeding is, at best, a doubtful remedy in typhus, 
and should never be allowed without being order- 
ed by a physician; nine times out of ten it is cer- 
tain death to the patient. 

No. 1. ,/lstringent mixture. — Chalk mixture, 
4 ounces, tincture of kino, 1 drachm, lavender 
compound, 1 drachm, laudanum, 30 drops. Dose, 
a table-spoonful every two or three hours, as may 
be required. 

No. 2. Cayenne mixture. — Cayenne pepper, 6 
ounces, common salt, 4 drachms, boiling water 
and vinegar, of each a pint and a half. Let them 
remain in a close vessel for an hour, then strain 
through a fine linen cloth. The dose is a table- 
.spoonful every one or two hours, according to cir- 
cumstances. 

No. 3. Musk mixtw'e. — Musk, one drachm, 
gum arable, powdered, one drachm, loaf sugar, the 
same, water, six ounces. Rub up the musk and 
sugar, adding the water very gradually. The dose 
is a table-spoonful every two hours. 

No. 4. Camphor mixture. — Camphor, 30 grains^ 
blanched .Tlmonds, 2 drachms, loaf sugar,' 1^ 
drachms, peppermint -water, 6 ounces. Moisteu 
the camphor with a few drops of spirits of wine, 
and rub it to a powder. The almonds and sugar 
beat to a paste, add the camphor, and i)our in the 
water gradually. The dose is a table-spoonful 
every two or three hours. 

Putrid fever. 

Symptoms. — Severe chills, astonishing and sud- 
den loss of strengtij, countenance livid, and ex- 
pressive of horror and anxiety, the skin sometimes 
burning to the touch, at others the heat is mode- 
rate, the pulse is quick, small and hard, vomitinjj 
of bile, violent pain in the head, redness of the 
eyes, low muttering delirium, the tongue is cover- 
ed with a dark brown or black looking crust, black- 
ish sores form about the gums, the breath is veiy 
oftensive, and, in the latter stage, the urine also, 
which deposits a dark sediment, in extremely 
bad cases blood is poured out under the skin, 
forming purple spots, and breaks out from thu 
nose and difterent parts of the body, the pulse 
flutters and sinks, hiccup comes on, and death 
closes the horrid scene. 

Treatment. — As severe cases of this disease ara 
apt to run their career with fatal raj)idity, no tirao 
should be lost; bleeding is not admissible, the lo%3 
of a few ounces of blood being equivalent to a sen- 
tence of death. A gentle emetic is the first medi- 
cine to be given, which having operated, aliould he 



MEDICINE. 



201 



Ibllowed bj' a 7nlld purgative; 6 or 8 gt-ains of calor 
mel, with as many of jalap, answer the purpose. 
This being done, resort impiediately to the cold 
■Water, which should be" dashed over the body, as 
already directed. If the weakness of the patient 
be such, that fears are entertained of his sinking 
under the shock, sponge him with vinegar and wa- 
ter. When employed ear/i/ in the complaint this 
practice produces the happiest results. As soon 
as lie is wiped dry, and has taken the wine if chill- 
ed, give 10 drops of muriatic acid, with 8 or 9 
drops of laudanum, in a wine glass of the cold in- 
fusion of bark, every four hours, gradually in- 
creasing the quantity of the acid to twenty drops 
or more at a dose. Wine and water should be 
liberally given in this disease, as soon as the putrid 
and typhus symptoms show themselves; like every 
thing else that is used, it should be taken cold. 
The sulphate of quinine, in tlie same doses as men- 
tioned in typhus, is a valuable remedy. Yest is 
much used in putrid fever; the dose is two table- 
spoonsful every two or three hours, or it may be 
mixed in porter or beer, and taken in small quan- 
tities very frequently. 

As a wash for the mouth, nothing is better than 
an ounce of alum dissolved in a pint of water. 
Rest at night must be procured by opium, provided 
there is no delirium. If towards the end of the 
complaint, there arise a gentle looseness, accom- 
panied with a moisture on the skin, that seems 
likely to prove critical, it should not be meddled 
vitli, but otherwise, it must be stopped by as- 
tringents. As this is a highly contagious disease, 
all unnecessary communication with the sick should 
be forbidden. The chamber should be kept cool, 
clean, and frequently sprinkled with vinegar, and 
all nuisances be immediately removed. Much ad- 
vantage will result from taking the patient, on the 
very commencement of the attack, into a new and 
healthy atmosphere. 



Hectic fever. 

This is never a primary disease, but is alwa3's 
found as a symptom of some other one, as con- 
sumption. 

Symptoms. — Night sweats, bowels costive at 
first, tiien loose, alternate chills and flushes, a cir- 
cumscribed spot on the cheeks, a peculiar delicacy 
of complexion and emaciation to so great a degree, 
that the patient sometimes looks like a living ske- 
leton. 

Treatment. — Remove the cause, by curing the 
disease of which it is a symptom, 

hvflammation of the brain. 
Symptoms. — Intense pain in the head, the eyes 
incapable of bearing the light, delirium, face flush- 
ed, oppression at the breast, the pulse hard and 
very rapid, tongue, at first of a fiery red, then yel- 
low, brown or black. 

Causes. — Exposure to excessive heat of the sun, 
blows on the head, intense application to study, 
intemperance. Distinguish it from inflammatory 
fever by tlie pulse, which in the one is full, strong 
and regular, in the other, hard, quick and corded, 
and by the raving delirium, from typhus by the 
two latter marks. 

Treatment. — Bleed the patient (as quickly as 
possible) until he nearly faints. Upon the x-eso- 
lute employment of the lancet in the onset, we 
roust place our chief dependence. The bowels 
should be freely opened with Epsom or Glauber 
salts, the head shaved, and a blister, or cloths dip- 
ped in iced vinegar and water, or pounded ice, be 
applied to it, and the room kept perfectly cool, 
dark, and quiet. Rice water, lemonade, or cold 
water, is to be the onlv diet. Should the violence 
'2 A 



of the disease not give way to these remedies, re» 
peat the bleeding, blistering, &c. as often as may 
be necessary. The most vigorous measures to re- 
duce the inflammation are required, or death will 
be the consequence. 

Head-ach. 

Causes. — Some particular disease of which it is 
a symptom. Indigestion, a foul stomach, tight 
cravats or shirt collars, exposure to the heat of the 
sun, a rushing of blood into the head. 

Treatment. — This will vary according to the 
cause. If it arises from indigestion, that must be 
attended to. A foul stomach is one of the most 
usual causes of head-ach: such is the connexion be- 
tween these parts, that the one is seldom out of 
order, without notice being given of it by the other. 
In this case, an emetic should always be adminis- 
tered, which, at a day's interval, is to be followed 
by a purgative. If from the beating of tlie artery 
in the temples and a sense of fulness in the head, 
we suspect it to originate from an undue deter- 
mination to that part, bleed freely, and apply cloths 
dipped in cold water to it. Long continued and 
obstinate head-ach has been frequently benefited 
by issues on the back of the neck. 

Inflammation of the eye. 

Symptoms. — Pain, heat and swelling of the parts, 
which appear blood-shot, the tears hot and scald- 
ing, fever, intolerance of light, sometimes when 
the lids are aftected, the edges become ulcerated. 

Causes. — Extei-nal injuries, as blows, particles 
of sand, kc. getting into them, exposure to cold, a 
strong light, intemperance. 

Ti'ealment. — If the complaint is caused by fo- 
reign bodies, tliey must be removed with the point 
of a paint brush, or the end of a piece of wire co- 
vered with lint, or washed out by injecting warm 
milk and water into the eye, with a small syringe. 
If particles of iron stick in it, they may be drawn 
out by a magnet. From whatever circumstance it 
may originate, the inflammation is to be subdued 
by bleeding from the arm, and from the neighbour- 
hood of the eye, by a dozen or more leeches. The 
bowels should be freely opened with Epsom salts, 
and a cold lead-water poultice, enclosed in a piece 
of thin gauze, be laid over the part. The I'oom 
should be perfectly dark, and the diet extremely 
low. Weak brandy and water, lead water, or rose 
water, may be used as a lotion. If the pain is very 
severe, a small quantity of equal parts of lauda- 
num and water may be dropped into the eye. If 
the eye lids are ulcerated, touch them with the 
white vitriol ointment. Bathing the eye frequent- 
ly with clear cold water, is a refreshing and useful 
practice, 

Dimness of sight. 

Symptoms. — The patient imagines he sees par- 
ticles of dust, flies, and cobwebs, floating in the 
air, and canuot distinguish clearly any object, either 
near to him, or at a distance. Though the pupil 
sometimes does not contract, the eye is to all ap- 
pearance unchanged. 

Causes. — Pressure on the optic nerves, Avithin 
the scull, by tumours, or other causes, or an error 
or defect in the formation of the nerves themselves, 
drunkenness, blows on the head, apoplexy, exces- 
sive venereal indulgences. 

Treatment. — Blisters, issues, or a seton to the 
back of the neck, snuft", by exciting a discharge 
from the nose, is of use. Electric sparks passed 
through the forehead, and drawn from the eyes, if 
persevered in for a considerable time, may prove 
eft'ectual. As many causes of this disease are sepit- 
cd in the intestines and stomach, a light emetio 



202 



u^^^^RSAL receipt book. 



may be first given, and then a succession of purga- 
tives for several days or weeks. 



A7ffht blindness. 

Symptoms. — The sin;!it is perfectly clear and dis- 
liHict (hiring llie day, but completely lost at night. 

Causes. — A diseased liver, exposure to a strong 
light. 

''Treatment. — This disease is not common in the 
United States; it is sometimes, however, met with. 
Tlie first thing to be done, is to shade ihe eyes by 
a green silk screen, and to avoid any strong lighl; 
the next, is to balhe the eye very frequently with 
cold water, or a wash, made by dissolving twelve 
or fourteen grains of white viti'iol in four ounces 
of rose or common water. Blisters on the tem- 
ples, placed as close to the eyes as possible, are 
liigllly useful. 

There are many other diseases incident to the 
eyes, but none that can be managed by any but a 
physician or surgeon. When, tlierefore, anj' alte- 
ration in the structure of the eye is perceived, no 
time should be lost in having recourse to one or 
tiie otlier. 



Jnfaimnatmi of the ear. 

Sijmptoms — Pain in the ear, which at last either 
gradually ceases or matter is discharged through 
the opening. 

Causes. — The accumulation of liard wax, in- 
sects getting into it, injuries trom blows, &.c. 

Treatment. — A little warm olive oil, with an 
equal part of laudanum, dropped into the ear, and 
retained there by a piece of wool or cotton, will 
frequently procure almost instant relief. If it be 
caused by hard wax, inject warm soap suds or salt 
water to soften it, and then, willi care, endeavour 
to extract it, when the oil and laudanum may .again 
be employed. In cases of great severity, a blister 
may be ajjplied behind llie ear. A temporary deaf- 
Tsess frequently results from this complaint, and 
sometimes, when matter is formed, the bones 
of the organ are destroyed, and hearing is lost for- 
ever. 



Bleeding' from the nose. 

Causes. — Fulness of hlood, violent exercise, par- 
ticular positions of the body, blows, &c. 

Treatment. — Keep the patient erect or sitting 
v'ith his head tlirown a little backwards, take ott" 
liis cravat, unbutton his shirt collar, and expose 
him freely to the cold air; apply ice or cold vine- 
gar and water to his testicles, and the back of the 
neck. If th(? pulse be full, bleed him from the 
ai-m. If these are not sufficient, moisten a plug 
of linen witli brandy, roll it in powdered alum ancl 
screw it up the nostril. A piece of cat-gut may 
also be passed tlirough the nostril into the throat, 
drawn out at the mouth, and a bit of sponge be fas- 
tened to it and drawn back again, so as to make 
the sponge block up the posterior nostril. In doing 
this it is necessary to leave a piece of the cat-gut 
so as to be got hold of, in order to withdraw tlie 
sponge. It is seldom, however, that the first re- 
medies will not answer the purpose. 

Poli'pus. 
The nose is subject to two species of this tu- 
mour: — the pear-shaped or pendulous polypus, 
and a flattened irregular excrescence, which is ex- 
tremely painful, and is of a cancei'ous nature. As 
soon a? any affection of this kind is suspected, ap- 
ply to R surgeon. 

Cancer of the lip. 
T)«t kind of cancer always commences in a 



small crack, which, after a while, becomes exqui- 
sitely painful. If closely examined, this crack is 
found to be seated in a small hard tumour, which 
soon ulcerates, and if not checked, extends the dis- 
order to tlie tliroat, tliereby endangering life. 

Treatment.— ^Thu knife is tho only remedy for 
this, as well as every other species of cancer, and 
no time should be lost in resorting to a surgeon. 



Jllercurial ulcers in the mouth. 

Large, dark looking iilcers in the mouth are a 
common effect of the abuse of mercuiy. They may 
be known by the horrid smell of the breath, by the 
teeth being loosened from the gums, and by a cop- 
pery taste in the mouth. 

Treatment. — Omit all mercurial preparations; 
wash the mouth frequently with sage tea or vine- 
gar and water, drink freely of sarsaparilla tea, and 
keep the bowels open witli sulphur. 

Ulcers and pimples on the tongxie. 
Small pimples are occasionally found on the 
tongue, which at last form ulcers. Sometimes they 
are occasioned by the rough and projecting edge 
of a broken or decayed tooth: when this is the 
cause, the part must be rounded by a file or the 
tootli extracted, when the sore will jieal without 
further trouble. Whitish looking specks, which 
seem inclined to spread,' are also met with on the 
inside of the cheeks and lips. They are easily re- 
moved by touching their surfaces with bui-nt alum. 

Cancer of the tongue. 

Cancer of the tongue commences like that of the 
lip, being a crack or fissure in a small, hard, deep 
seated tumour on the side of the tongue. 

Treatment. — No time should be lost in useless 
attempts to cure it by medicines. The oidy safety 
for the patient is in the knife, and that at an early 
period. 

Enlargement of the mmla. 

The uvula is that little tongue-like appendage 
that hangs down from the middle of the fleshy 
curtain which divides the mouth from the throat. 
It is very subject to inflammation, the consequence 
of which is, tiiat it becomes so long that its point 
touches, and sometimes even lies along the tongue, 
which creates considerable uneasiness, and is now 
and then the cause of a constant cough, which 
finally ends in consumption. It is commonly 
called the falling of tlie palate. 

Treatment. — Strong gargles of vinegar and wa- 
ter, or a decoction of black oak bark, or a watery 
solution of alum, will frequently cure the com- 
plaint. It happens very frequently, however, that 
in consequence of repeated attacks, it becomes 
permanently lengthened, and then the only re- 
source is to cut off the end of it. If you are near 
a physician apply to him, if not, the operation is 
so simple that any man of common dexterity can 
perform it, particularly as little or no blood fol- 
lows the incision. All that is requisite, is to seat 
the patient, seize the part with a hook, or a slender 
pair of ])incers, draw it a little forward, and snip 
oft" its point with a pair of scissors. 

SxveUing of the to7isils. 

The tonsils are two glands situated in the throat, 
one on each side, which are very apt to swell from 
inflammation by colds. They sometimes become 
so large as to tiireaten suftbcation. 

Treatment. — In the commencement, this is the 
same as directed for inflammatory sore throat, 
which see. If it does not succeed, apply to a sur- 
geon to take them away. 



MEDICINE. 



203 



Inflammatory sore throat. 

Symptoms. — Chills and flushes of heat sneceeil 
jng each other; fever; the inside of the mouth, the i 
throat and tonsils much inflamed; swallowing is 
painful; hoarseness; heat and darting pains iu the 
throat. 

Causes. — Cold; sitting in damp clothes; wet 
feet; excessive exertions of voice. 

Distinguish it from putrid sore throat by the 
fever being inflammatory, &c. 

Treatment. — An emetic, taken at a very early 
stage of this disorder will frequently prevent it 
from forming. The next step is to bleed the pa- 
tient freely, and give him a large dose of Epsom 
salts. A mustard poultice, or blister to tiie throat, 
is an invaluable application, and should never be 
neglected. The room should be kept cool and 
quiet, and tlie diet consist of barley or i-ice water. 
The throat may be gargled several times in the 
day with vinegar and water; inhaling the steam of 
liot water, from the spout of a tea pot, is of use. 
If symptoms of putrescency appear, treat it as di- 
rected in putrid sore throat. 

Putrid sore throat. 

Symptoms. — All the marks of typhus: on the 
second day a difticulty of swallowing; respiration 
hurried; breath liot; skin dry and burning; a 
quick, Aveak and iri-egular pulse; scarlet patches 
break out about the lips, and liie inside of the 
mouth and throat is of a liery red colour. About 
tlie third day blotclies of a dark, red colour make 
their appearance about the face and neck, which 
soon expend over the whole body. Upon examin- 
ing the throat i^ number of specks, between an ash 
and a dark brown colour are observed on the pa- 
late, uvula, tonsils, &o.; a brown fur covei-s the 
tongue; the lips a/«i; covered with little vesicles or 
bladders, which burst and give out a tliin acrid 
matter, that produces ulceration wherever it 
touches. In bad cases, the inside of the mouth 
and throat become black, and are covered with foul 
spreading ulcers, when all the symptoms that cha- 
racterize putrid fever ensue. 

Distinguish it from scarlet fever, by the fever 
lieing a typhus and not inflammatory, by the sore 
throat, dark tongue, and ])Utrid symptoms; and 
from measles, by the absence of cough, sneezing, 
watering of the eyes, &c. 

Treatment. — Bleeding in this disease is abso- 
lutely forbidden. The same may be said of active 
or strong purgatives. The l)owels, however, should 
be kept open by mild laxatives or clysters. If to- 
wards the close of the complaint there is any ob- 
struction, a few grains of calomel and rluibarb 
may be given. Cold water dashed over the body 
is one of the most powerfid remedies we can em- 
ploy; it should never be omitted; and as soon as 
tlie patient is dried and in bed, half a pint of 
strong mulled wine should be given to him. This 
practice, boldly followed, frequently puts an end 
•to the disease. 

Emetics are used in the beginning with advan- 
tage, but the great and evident indication is to 
prevent and counteract the disposition to putres- 
cency, and to support the strength. For this pur- 
pose the cold infusion of bark, or bark in substance, 
with ten or twelve drops of muriatic acid, and 
eight or nine drops of laudanum, should be taken 
frequently, and in large doses. Cayenne pepper 
is a valuable article; it may be taken in pills, or in 
the mixture before described, p. 200. To cleanse 
the throat, gargle frequently with vinegar and wa- 
ter. Any looseness of the bowels must be checked 
bj' powerful astringents. The diet should consist 
of arrow root, jellj', panada, tapioca, and gruel, 
and the <Irink of wine whey, wine and water, &c. 



increasing the quantity of the wine according to 
the weakness and age of the.pntient. The greatest 
ch:anliness is to be observed in the chamber. As 
this disease is undoubtedly contagious, all unne- 
cessary communication with the sick room should 
be prevented, and tliose who are compelled to be 
with them, will do well to take a spoonful of the 
Cayenne mixture from time to time, by way of 
prevention. It is asserted to be a safe-guard. 

' Strictures in the throat. 

Symptoms, — The first mark of an obstruction or 
stricture in the throat, is a slight difficulty in 
swallowing solids, which continues increasing for 
months, or until the passage becomes so contracted 
that the smallest particle of food cannot pass, but 
having remained an instant at the strictured part, 
is violently rejected. If the obstacle is not i"e- 
moved, the patient starves. 

Treatment. — Meddle not with the complaint 
yourself, for you can do nothing to relieve it, but 
apply with all speed to a surgeon, and i-emember 
that vour life is at stake. 



Catarrh, or cold. 

Symptoms. — A dull pain in the head, swelling 
and redness of the eyes, the eftusion of a thin 
acrid mucus from the nose, hoarseness, cough, fe- 
ver, &c. 

'J'reatment. — If the symptoms be violent, bleed 
and give twenty drops of hartshorn in half a pint 
of warm vinegar whey. Hoarhound and boneset 
tea, taken in large quantities, are very useful. The 
patient should be confined to his bed, and be freely 
purged. If tiiere is great pain in the breast, apply 
a blister to it. To ease the cough take 2 te:>- 
spoonsful of No. 1 every 15 minutes, or till relief ^ 
is obtained. 

The Influenza is nothing more than an aggra- 
v.ited state of catarrh, and is to be cured by the 
same remedies. No cough or cold is too light to 
merit attention. Neglected colds lay the founda- 
tion of diseases that every year send thousands to 
the grave. 

No. I. Coughmixtxire. Paregoric, half an ounce, 
syrup of squills, 1 oz., antimonial wine, 2 drachms, 
water, six ounces. Dose is 2 teaspoonsful every fif- 
teen minutes till the cough abates. 



Asthma. 

Sinnptoms. — A tightness across the breast, fre-"* 
quent short breathing, attended with a wheezing, 
increased by exertion and when in bed. It comes 
on in fits or paroxysms. 

Treatment. — If the cough be violent and fre- 
quent, with great pain in the breast, and the patient 
be young and robust, it will be necessary to bleed 
him. In old people it should be resorted to with 
caution. The tincture of digitalis is highly re- 
commended in asthma. It should be taken in doses 
of a very few drops at first, and cautiously increas- 
ed. If the pulse sinks under it, or gi^ldiness, &c. 
is produced, it must be laid aside. In fact, it is, 
hardly prudent to take this active and dangerous 
article, except under a physician's care. The Indian 
tobacco may be safely used in place of it, in doses 
of a tea-spoonful of the tincture* every half hour, 
till relief is obtained. The dried roots of the thoi'u 
apple and skunk cabbage are sometimes smoked 
through a pipe for the same purpose. xVsthma is 
a disease that is seldom completely cured by art; 
nature, however, occasionally efiects it. 

* Take a sufiicient quantity of the leaves, stem, 
and pods of the plant, put them irrto a bottle and 
fill it up with brandy or spirits, and let it remain 
for a few days. 



204 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Pleunsy. 

Symjitoms. — A sluiri) ])aiii or stitcli in tlie side, 
increased upon breiithing, inability ot" lying on the 
afiected side, pulse hard, quick and corded, tongue 
while. 

Treatment. — Take away at once from twelve to 
fifteen ounces of blood, place a large blister over 
tJie side, and give a full dose of Epsom salts. Re- 
])e:it the bleeding as often as the pulse seems to 
demand it, and if expectoration does not come on, 
apply another blister close to the first one. All 
the remedies, for the reduction of inflammation, 
must l>e actively employed. The patient should 
be confined to his bed, with the head and shoul- 
<lers a little elevated, and a warm decoction of the 
twigs and leaves of the common hemlock taken 
frequently, and in liberal quantities. The diet 
should always consist of rice or barley water. 

Spitting- of blond. 

Symptoms. — Blood of a bright red colour, often 
frothy, l)roug!it up by coughing. 

Causes. — Consum|)tion and its causes, a fulness 
of blood, rupture of a blood vessel from anv cause. 
Dlsti.iguish it from vomiting of blood, by its bright 
colour, and being brought up with coughing. 

'I'realment. — Give the patient at once a table- 
spoonful of common salt, and direct him to swal- 
low it. If the pulse is full, bleed him. The sugar j 
of lead has much reinitation in this complaint: 2 
or 3 grains of it, with from a half to a whole grain 
of opium, may be taken every i or 4 hours, and in 
severe cases, where the blood flows rapidly, .5 or 
C grains, with two of opium, may be taken at once. 
Tlie most perfect rest should be sti'ictly enjoined, 
and the diet consist of cold mashed turnips or cold 
rice water. 



Consumption. 

Symptoms. — A short, dry cough, languor and 
gradual loss of strength, pulse small, quick, and 
soft, pain in tlie breast, expectoration of a frothy 
matter, that at last becomes .lolid and yellow, the 
breathing grows more anxious and hurried, the 
emaciation and pain increase, hectic fever, night 
sweats and a looseness of tlie bowels come on, and 
the patient, unsuspicious of danger, dies. 

Causes — Neglected colds, dissipation, Sec. Dis- 
tinguish it by the long continued dry cough, ])ain in 
the breast, and great emaciation, by the substance 
■ thrown U]) being pure pus; in common language, 
m.atter. It is known by its being opaque, mixing 
■with water, and heavier than it, so that if thrown 
into a vessel containing that fluid, it sinks to the 
bottom. V/hen thrown upon hot coals it yields an 
offensive odour. 

Treatment. — In a confirmed state of consump- 
tion, nothing that art has hitherto been able tn do, 
can afford us any solid hopes of a cure. When 
once the disease is firmly seated in the lungs, all 
that is possible, is to smooth the passage to the 
grave, and perhaps for a while to retard it. If, 
however, the disease is taken in its very bud, much 
may be done by a change of climate, a milk diet, 
vigorous and daily exercise on horseback, and by 
carefully avoiding cold and all exciting causes. A 
removal to a warm climate should be the first step 
taken, if practicable: if not, a voyage to sea, or a 
long journey on horseback. A complete suit of 
flannel, worn next the skin, is an indispensable ar- 
ticle for every one who is even inclined to this 
most fatal disorder. 



Palpitation of the heart. 
The symptoms of this complaint must be obvi- 
ous from its name. When it arises from a dis- 
eased state of the heart or its vessels, nothing can 



be done to cure it. The patient should be carefur 
to avoid a full habit of body, and abstain from vio- 
lent exercise and sexual indulgences. He should 
live low, and keep as ([uiet and composed as pos- 
sible. A fit of anger, or any imprudence, may cost 
him his life. There is a milder kind of this dis- 
ease, resulting from debility, which must be reme- 
died by restoring the strength of the general sys- 
tem. It is also symptomatic of other diseases, and 
must be treated accordingly. 

Dropsy of the chest. 

Symptoms. — Great difliculty of breathing, which 
is increased by lying down, oppression and weight 
at the breast, countenance pale or livid, and ex- 
tremely anxious, great thirst, pulse irregular and 
intermitting, cough, violent palpitation of the 
heart, the patient can lie on one side only, or can- 
not lie down at all, so that he is obliged to sleep 
sitting,- frightful dreams, a feeling of suffocation, 
&c. 

Treatment. — This is another of those diseases 
that mock the art of man. To say it is incurabk-, 
would be hazarding too much,butasyet, itlias near- 
ly always proved so. All that can be done is to fol- 
low the same plan that is laid down for the treat- 
ment of dropsy in general, which consists of purg- 
ing, emetics, and diuretics. When the water aj)- 
pears to be confined to one cavity of the chest, and 
the oppression cannot be borne, some relief may 
be obtained by a surgical operation. 

Inflammation of tlie stomach. 

Symptoms. — A.fixed buiningpain in the stomach, 
small, very quick hard pulse, sudden and great 
weakness, the pain in the stomach increased on the 
slightest pressurej vomiting, hiccup. To these 
are sometimes added an erysi(ielatous inflamma- 
tion, extending from the mouth to the stomach, 
fainting, clammy sweats, and death. 

Causes. — Cold suddenly applied to the body or 
stomach,^drinking largely of cold water while very 
varm. The striking in of eruptions, poisons, gout, 
rheumatism. Distinguisli it from inflammation of 
the bowels by the seat of the pain, which is just 
below the breast bone, in what is called the pit of 
the stomach, the burning heat and pain there, by 
the hiccup and vomiting. 

Treatment. — As you value the life of the patient 
bleed him quickly, largely, and frequently. The 
only safety for him is found in the fearless use of 
the lancet. The softness of the pulse is here no 
rule to go by — for it, and the convulsions, are caus- 
ed by the disease. The rule is to bleed every few 
hours till tlie inflammation is subdued. From twen- 
ty to thirty ounces may be taken in a full stream 
from a robust man at the beginning, and ten more 
in 6 or 8 hours, and so on. As soon as he is bled, 
or while the blood is flowing, put him into a warna 
bath, and have a large blister prepared, which, af- 
ter he has remained some time in the bath, should 
be applied directly over the stomach. A warm 
laxative clyster is now to be thrown up, and when 
the stomach will retain it, give him small quanti- 
ties of arrow root jelly or gum arable tea, from 
time to time, with a few drops of laudanum. The 
most rigid diet must be observed, and the patient 
kept very quiet. 

When the inflammation is reduced, and the sto- 
mach will bear it, a grain of solid opium may be 
given occasionally with advantage. If the disease 
has been brought on by poison taken into the sto- 
mach, apply the remedies directed in such cases. 
If mortificalion'ensues, death is the inevitable con- 
sequence. It may always be expected to take place, 
when the lancet has not been freely employed at 
the beginning, and known to exist, when froiu the 



MEDICINE. 



203 



state of torture we have just described, there is a 
sudden change to one of perfect ease. 

Cramp in the stomach. 

Symptoms. — Violent spasmodic pain in the sto- 
rnach, which is so severe, as nearly to occasion 
fainting. 

Treatment. — Give 50 or 60 drops of laudanum, 
in a tea-spoonful of ether, with a little liot wine. 
Apply bladders or bottles filled with warm water 
tO the stomach and soles of the feet, or put the pa- 
tient into the warm bath. If the first dose of lau- 
danum does not relieve the ])ain, repeat it. 

Hicatps. 

Sijmptoms. — A spasmodic affection of the sto- 
msth and diaphragm, producing the peculiar noise, 
■which gives rise to the name. 

Treatment. — When hiccups occur at the close 
of an}' disease, they maybe considered the liarbin- 
gei-s of death; they, houever, frequently arise from 
acidity in the stomach and other causes. A long 
<lraught of cold water, a sudden surprise or fright, 
l)Uts an end to them. A blister over tlie stomach may 
be applied for the same purpose. I iiave succeeded 
in relieving a violent case of hiccups, that resisted 
every other remedy, by the oil of amber, in doses 
of five drops every 10 minutes. It may be taken 
in a little mint water. 



Heart-burn. 
This common and distressing affection is most 
generally connected with indigestion. To relieve 
it for the moment, magnesia, soda, or Seltzer 
■water, and water acidulated with sulphuric acid, 
may he employed. To cure the complaint re- 
quires the digestive powers to be strengthened by 
tonics, bitters, and the different preparations of 
iron, &c. as directed for indigestion. The appli- 
cation of a blister over the stomach may be of use. 
The white oxyd of bismuth in 6 grain doses, tiiive 
times a-day, taken hi milk, has been found of ser- 
vice. 



Jndiijestion. 

Sipnptoms. — ^Want of appetite; low spirits; pains 
and fulness in the stomach; belching; a sour water 
rising in the mouth; heartburn; the bowels are ir- 
regular and generally costive; weakness and ema- 
ciation; pulse small and slow; pain in the head; 
skin dry; great uneasiness after eating. 

Causes. — All those which induce debility; ex- 
cessive indulgence in the pleasures of the table, or 
intemperance in any way; a sedentary life, or want 
of exercise; a diseased liver. 

Treatment. — In eveiy case of indigestion, the 
first thing the patient should do, is to abstain from 
whatever may have tended to jiroduce it. Tlie 
diet should consist of animal food that is liglit, 
nourishing, and easily digested. Roasted mutton 
is perhaps preferable to any other. Counti^y air 
and constant exercise on horseback are invaluable 
remedies in this disease, which, as it is generally 
occasioned by a departure from natural habits and 
employments, must be felieved by a return to 
them. Flannel should be ■worn next the skin, and 
care taken to avoid cold of exposure lo weti. A 
wine glass of the cold infusion of bark and quassia, 
(rflade by placing one ounce of powdered bark and 
one of ground quassia in a close vessel, to which is 
added a quart of boiling water; to be kept simmer- 
ing near the fire until the whole is reduced lo a 
pint,) with ten or twelve drops of the elixir of vi- 
triol, should he regularly taken, three times a day, 
for monllis. The bowels are to be kept open by 
some warm laxative as rhubarb, and the whole 
(Kune braced hy the daily us« of the cold baihv 



The new preparation of bark called sulphate o* 
quinine, promises to be of much use in llie com- 
plaint of which we are speaking. It must be taken 
to the amount of four gi*ains a day, in divided 
doses, either dissolved in water, or in pills. Weak 
spirits and water, or a single glass of sound old 
Madeira, ma)' be taken at dinner, but all malt 
liquors sliould be avoided. JNIuch benefit has been 
found to result from a long continued use of tlie 
wine of iron, (made by taking iron filings 4 oz. 
and pouring on it four pints of Madeira wine; let 
it stand for a month, shaking it frequently,) a glass 
of whicli may be taken twice a day. If the com- 
plaint arise from a diseased liver, recourse must 
be had to the plan laid down for its cure. 

Vomiting of Mood. 

Symptoms. — A flow ot dark blood from the sto- 
mach, preceded by a sense of weight and oppres- 
sion in that organ. The blood is generally mixed 
with particles of food, &c. 

Distinguish it from spitting of blood, by its dark 
colour and being mixed with food. 

Treatment. — If the accompanying S3'mptoms be 
inflammatory, l>leed and use some cooling purge; 
if otherwise, try thirty drops of the muriated tinc- 
ture of iron in a glass of water, every hour till the 
bleeding ceases. If the cause be a diseased liver 
or tumour in the neighbourhood, treat it accord- 
'"gly- 

Infammatwn of the liver. 

Symptoms. — A dull pain in the right side below 
the rib, which is more sensible on pressure; an in- 
ability to lie on the left side; pain in the right 
shoulder; a sallow complexion. Such ai-e the 
symptoms of an acute attack of tliis disease. There 
is another species of it called chronic, in which its 
ai)proaches are so gradual that it is a difticult mat- 
ter to determine its nature. It commences with all 
the symptoms of indigestion, and ends in jaundice 
or dropsy. 

Causes. — Long continued fever and ague; in- 
flammation; acrid bile; drunkenness, or a free use 
of spirituous liquors is a very common cause; inju- 
ries from blows, &c. 

Distinguish it from pleurisy by the pain not 
being so severe: and by its extending to the top ol 
tlie shoulder; by not beuig able to rest on tlie left 
side. 

Treatment. — Bleed the patient according to his 
age, strength, and the violence of the pain, and if ne- 
cessary, :q)ply a blister over the part, winch must 
he kept open by (h-essingit with the savin ointment. 
The liowels should be opened by Epsom salts or 
calomel and jalap. It this does not abate the symp- 
toms in a few days, give a calomel pill of one 
grain every five hours, or rub a drachm of the 
strongest mercurial ointment into the side until the 
gums are found lo be a little sore, when the frio 
tions or pills must be discontinued until the mouth 
is well, and then again resorted to as before. If 
an abscess points outwardly, apply bread and milk 
poultices to the tumour, omit the mercury, use 
wine, bark, and a generous diet. As soon as mat- 
ter is to be felt within it, open it at its lowest and 
most projecting part with the point of a sharp lan- 
cet, and let out its contents veiy slowly, taking 
care not to close the wound till this is completely 
eft'ected. The nitric acid, in doses ot ten or twelve 
drops, three times a day, gradually increased, and 
steadily persevered in, will sometimes produce a 
cure. The meitsurial plan, however^ is lo be pre- 
ferred. 



Jaundice. 
^?/^/om9.-*Languor} loathing of food} a biltei 



206 



UNH^RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



taste in the mouth; vomiting; the skin and eyes of 
a yellow colour; the stools clayey, and the urine 
giving a yellow tinge to rags dipped in it. Tiiere 
is a (lull pain in tlie right side, under the last rib, 
vhich is increased by pressure. W'iien the pain is 
seTere, tliere is fever; tlie pulse hard and full, he. 
Causes. — An interruption to llie regular jiassage 
of the bile, which is carried into the blood, bile 
being formed in too great quantities. Tlie first is 
occasioned by gall-stones, a diseased liver, £cc. 
Intemperance is a very coraraon cause, hence tip- 
plers are more subject to it than otliers. 

TreaUneiit. — If tlie pulse be full and hard, the 
pain great, and other inflammatory symjitoms be 
present, blood is to be taken away as freely as tbc 
age and slrengtli of tlie patient, and the violence of 
the pain, seems to demand. He sliould tben be 
placed in a warm hatli, and allowed to remain 
there some time; when removed to bed, a grain or 
two of opium may be given every few liours until the 
pain is relieved. Bladders, paitly fdled with warm 
water, cr clotiis wrung out of bot decoctions of 
Iierbs, may also he ap[)lied to the seat of the pain. 
If the stomach be so irritable as not to retain any 
thing on it, try fomentations and the effervescing 
mixture, or a blister to tlie part. As soon as some 
degree of ease is obtained by these means, purga- 
tives must be employed, and steadily persevered 
in; calomel and jalap or Epsom salts, in tlie ordi- 
nary doses, answer vei-y well. If, however, this 
cannot be done, and from tbe pain being acute at 
one particular spot, there is reason to suppose tbat 
a gall-stone is lodged there, tbe following remedy 
niay be tried, of which one-fifth or a little less may 
he taken ever)' morning, drinking freely of chicken 
broth, flaxseed tea, or barley«water after it. 

Ellier, 3 drachms, spirits of turpentine, 2 drs. 
Mix them. 

The diet ought to be vegetalile, and should the 
disease have arisen from a neglected infiammation 
of the liver, it must be treated with mercury. 
(See inflammation of the liver. ) If putrid symp- 
toms show themselves, meet them with the reme- 
dies already directed for such cases. Regular ex- 
ercise (on horseback, if possible) sliould never 
t)c neglected by persons subject to tliis disease. 

Jlgxie cake. 
This is the vulgar appellation for an enlarged 
spleen, and expresses, with much brief meaning, 
tlie cause of the complaint, as it generally results 
from ill-treated or obstinate interinittents. It is, 
however, not productive of much uneasiness, and 
frequently disapiiears of itself. I'iie plan of treat- 
ment, if tliere is acute pain in the pan, is to bleed, 
purge, and blister. If it remains enlarged after 
lids, mercury may be resorted to, as directed in 
chronic inflammation of the liver. 



Infammation of the intestines. 

Symptoms. — Sharp pain in the bowels, which 
shoots round the navel, and which is increased by 
pressure, sudden loss of strength, vomiting of dark 
coloured, sometimes excrementitious matter, cos- 
tiveness, small, quick and hard pulse, high colour- 
ed urine. 

Disdnguish it from cholic, hy the pain being in- 
creased by pressure, whereas in cholic it is reliev- 
ed hy it. 

Treatment. — This is another of tliose formidable 
diseases tiiat require the most actively reducing 
measures in the onset. From sixteen to twenty 
ounces of blood ought to be taken away at once, 
and the patient placed in a warm bath, after which 
a large blister should be applied to the belly. 
Emollient and laxative clysters may be injected 
froui time to lime, aud if the vomiting and irrita- 



bility of the stomach permit it to be retained, give 
a large dose of castor oil. If this be rejected, try 
the oil mixture, Xo. 1, or fifteen grains of calomel 
made into smaH pills and taken at once. This, 
however, (though one of great importance) is a 
secondaiy consideration. I'o subdue the inflam- 
mation by large and repeated bleedings, being the 
gieat object. To effect tliis, if in five or six hours 
after the first bleeding, the pain, &c. be not re- 
lieved, take away ten or twelve ounces more, and 
so on till that desirable object is obtained. The 
diet should consist of small quantities of barley or 
rice water only. If in tlie latter stages of the dis- 
ease, when the inflammation has somewhat subsid- 
ed, an obstinate costiveness be found to resist all 
the usual remedies, dashing cold water over the 
belly will sometimes succe-ed. 

Bemember that this complaint frequently runs 
its course in a day or two, and tbat, utdessthe lan- 
cet be fcarlessly employed in the very beginning, 
mortification and death will ensue. If a strangu- 
lated rupture occasion the disease, the same, and 
if possible, still stronger reitsons exist for bleed- 
ing, ))revioasly to auyatlemps at reduction. ^Vhe^ 
certain quantities are mentioned, it is always to be 
uinlerstood, that they are applicable to robust men. 
Common sense will dictate the necessity of dimin- 
ishing them, as the patient may fall more* or less 
short of this description. 

Xo. 1. Oil mixture. — The yolk of one egg, cas- 
tor oil, 2 ounces. Mix them well, and add laven- 
der compound, 2 drachms, sugar, 1 ounce, water, 
5 ounces. Mix them well. The dose is a table- 
spoonful every hour till it operates, or half the 
quantity at once, the remainder in divided doses, 
if no passage is obtained ai'ler a spate of four 
hours. 



Cholera JMurbuf. 

Symptoms. — A violent vomiting and purging of 
bije, preceded by a pain in the stomach and bow- 
els, (piick, weak and fluttering pulse, heat, thirst, 
cold sweats, hiccups, and sometimes death in a fev/ 
hours. 

Treatment. — '.Vash out the stomach and bowels 
with copious draughts of chamomile tea, barley or 
chicken water, &.c. and inject clysters of the same 
articles. Bladders or bottles containing hot water, 
should lie applied to the feet, and flannel clollis, 
wrung out of hot spirits, be laiil over the stomach. 
AVlien from the quantity of barley water, &c. that 
has been taken, it is supposed that the stomach is 
sufficiently cleared, give two grains of solid opium 
in a [)ill, and repeat it every few hours as the case 
may require. If the weakness be very great, and 
the spasms so alarming as to cause a fear of the 
immediate result, the quantity of opium may be 
increased to six, eight or ten grains at a dose for 
an adult. If the pill will not remain in the sto- 
mach, give eighty or ninety drops of laudanum, in 
a table-spoonful of thin starch, by clyster, and re« 
peat it as often as may be necessary. Fifty or sixty 
drops of laudanum in a small quantity of strong 
mint tea, or the eft'ei-vescing drauglit, will frequent- 
ly succeed in allaying the irritation. If all tnese 
means fail, apply a blister to the stomach. When 
the violence of the attack is over, give castor oil or 
the oil mixture to carry off the bile that may re- 
main in the bowels. To complete the recowiy, 
and to guard against a seconil attack, a complete 
casing of flannel is requisite, together witii the use 
of vegetable bitters and tonics. Persons subject 
to this disease, should be cautious in their diet, 
and avoid exposure to moist cold air. 



Dysentery. 
Symptoms. — Fever, frequent small stools, ao 



MEDICINE. 



207 



companied Ijy griping, bearing down pains, the 
discharge consisting of pure blood or blood and 
jiiatter, sometimes resembling the shreds or wash- 
ings of raw flesh, a constant desire to go to stool, 
vomiting. 

Distinguish it from a diarrhoea or lax, by (he fe- 
ver, griping pains, and the constant desire to eva- 
cuate the bowels, by the discharge itself being 
blood, or matter streaked with blood, &c. 

Treatment. — As dysentery or bloody [lux is al- 
most always in this country connecteil with con- 
siderable inflammation, it will be proper, in most 
cases, to bleed the patient at the beginning of tlu3 
attack; caution, however, is requisite in repeating 
the operation, as typhus symptoms sometimes fol- 
low it. Wlielher it be thought prudent to bleed 
or not, repeated doses of castor oil, with clysters 
of the sam*;, and the application of blisters to the 
bellv, should never be omitted. If there is much 
vomiting at the commencement, the stomacli and 
bowels mav be cleansed by barley or rice water 
taken by llie moutli and in clysters. As soon as 
this is eifected, give a grain or two of solid opium; 
if it be rejected, 80 or 90 drops of laudanum in a 
table-^poonfid of chicken broth or starcli, by clys- 
ter. The stomacli may also be bathed with a- mix- 
ture of spirits of camplior and laudanum, and the 
irritation reduced liT all tiie means recnmniended 
for the same symptoms in cliolera-morbus. The 
diet should consist of gum arable dissolved in milk, 
arrow root jelly, barley water, See. Clysters of the 
same articles, with the addition of an ounce of 
olive oil, and twenty drops of laudanum, may be 
likewise injected several times in the day. To- 
wards the latter end of tlie complaint, opium and 
astringents are proper and indeed necessary, taking 
cai-e to obviate costiveness b}' occasional doses of 
castor oil. I say the latter end of it, for in the 
commencement they would be hurtful. In this 
stage of it also, if a severe tenesmus, (or constant 
desire to go to stool) remains, anodyne clysters will 
oe found useful, or, what is more eifectual, a couple 
of grains of opium placed just witliin the funda- 
ment. The various astringents, wliich are proper 
for dysentery in its latter stages, are found below, 
and may be used with port wine and water, as a 
drink. 

Jlstrin^-ents. — Chalk mixture, 4 ounces, tincture 
of kino, 1 drachm, cinnamon water, 2 ounces, lau- 
danum, ^ drachm. The dose is a table-spoonful 
every two hours, or ofteaer if necessaiy. — Or, 

Tincture of catechu, 2 ounces. Take two tea- 
spoonsful in a little port wine every hour, or often- 
er if required. — Or, 

Extract of logwood, 20 grains, cinnamon water, 
3 ounces, tincture of kino, 1 drachm, sugar, iJ 
drachms. To be taken at once. 



Diarrhoea or lax. 

Symptoms. — Ilei)eated and large discharges of a 
tliin excrenv;ntitious matter by stool, attended with 
griping and a rumbling noise in the bowels. 

Treatment. — If the disease arises from cold, a 
few doses of the chalk mixture. No. 1, will fre- 
quently put an end to it. It is, however, sometimes 
necessary to begin with an emetic of twenty grains 
of ipecacuanha, and then open the bowels by some 
mild purgative, as castor oil or rhubarb. Bathing 
the feet in warm water, and copious draughts of 
boneset tea, will be found of great benefit, if it 
originate from suppressed perspiration. For the 
same purpose also, from 6 to lU grains of Dover's 
powder may be taken at night, being caretnV not to 
drink any tiling for some tinie after-i'.. J* -/orms 
are the cause, treat it as directed. Wlraa ': is oc- 
casioned by mere weakness, and in the latter stages 
uih (proceed I'rom what it mar,) wlien every irri- 



tating matter is expelled, opium^ combined with 
astringents, is necessar)' as in the similar period of 
dysentery. The diet should consist, in the begin- 
ning, of rice, milk, sago, he. and subsequently of 
roasted chicken. Weak brandy and water, or port 
wine and water, may accompany the chicken for a 
common drink. Persons subject to complaints 
of this kind, should defend their bowels from the 
action of cold, by a flannel shirt, the feet and other 
parts of the body should also be kept warm. 

No. 1. Chalk tnixture. — Prepared chalk, 2 drs. 
loaf sugar, 1 drachm, rub them well together in a 
mortar, and add, gradually, of mucilage of gum 
arable, 1 ounce, water, 6 ounces, lavender com- 
pound, 2 drachms, laudanum, 30 drops. The dose 
is a table-spoonful every hour or oftener. Shake 
the bottle well before pouring out the liquid, or the 
chalk will be at the bottom. 



Colic. : 
Symptoms. — Violent shooting pain that twists 
round the navel, the skin of ilie belly drawn into 
bi)lis, obstinate costiveness, snmetimc^s a vomiting 
of excrenient. Distinguish it from inflammation ot 
the bowels, Ijy the pain being relieved by pressure, 
and from other diseases by llie twisting round the 
navel, the skin being drawn into balls, ixc. 

Treatment. — The first thing to be done in this 
disease is to give a large dose of laudanum in a lit- 
tle peppermint water, to open a vein, and apply a 
mustard ])oultice below the nave'.. Pifty, sixty or 
seventy drops of laudanum may be given at once, 
as the pain is more or less violent, and the dose bu 
repeated in a half hour, or less time, if i;ase is not 
procured. 'I'he quantity of blood to be di-awn Avill 
also depend on the same circumstance, taking into 
consideration the strength of the patient. In severe 
cases, 16 ounces may he about the mark. During 
this time, if the first doses of laudanum are found 
1 ineffectual in reducing the pain, and it is very 
I great, eighty or ninety drops may be given as a 
clyster in a gill of gruel, or warm water. One 
great rule in the treatment of colic, where tlie pain 
is excessive, is, to continue the i;se of opium in 
such increased doses' as will relieve it! — 'When 
this is obtained, castor oil by the mniitli and clys- 
ter must be employed to open the bowels. 

In bilious colic when there is a vomiting of 
bile, the eflervescing draught, with tidrty drops of 
laudanum may be taken, to quiet the stomach, to 
which, flannels wriuig out of warm spirits may be 
applied. When the vomiting has aliated, the oil 
mixture or the pills below should be taken until a 
free discharge is procured. If, notwithstanding 
our endeavours, tiie dl-ease proceeds to such an 
extent as to induce a vomiting of excrement, the to- 
. bacco clyster must be tried, or an attempt be made 
to till the intestines with warm water. 'I'his is done 
by forcibly injecting it in large quantities, at the 
same time the patient swallows as much as he is 
able. In this way, with a proper syringe, two gal- 
lons have been successfully introduced. In all cases 
of colic, when there is obstinate costiveness, an ex- 
amination of the fundament should be made with 
the finger. If there are any hard, dry pieces of 
excrement there, they may be removed either by 
the finger or the handle of a spoon. 

Those who are subject to colic should avoid 
fermented liquors, and as much as possible, ve- 
getable food; be always well clol'.ied, and take care 
not to expose themselves to cold and wet. The 
bowels should never be allowed to remain costive. ■ 
Purgative pills. — Of calomel and jalap, each 10 
grains, opium, one grain and a half, tartar emetic, 
half a grain, oil of aniseed, one drop. Make the 
whole into a mais. 'I'o be taken at once, or divide 
it in pilli. if the patient prefer it. 



208 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Painter''s colic. 

Symptoms. — Pain and weight in the belly, belch- 
ing, constant desire to go to stool, which is inef- 
fectual, quick contracted pulse, the belly becomes 
painful to the touch, and is drawn into knots, con- 
stant colic pains, the patient sits in a bent position, 
ifter a while palsy of ])art, or of the whole body. 

Treatment. — This disease is but too apt to end 
in palsy, leaving the hands and limbs contracted 
and useless. In every case of colic, whose symp- 
toms resemble the above, if the person has been 
exposed to lead in any of its shapes, all doubt on 
the subject vanishes. 

If from the violence of the attack an inflamma- 
tion of the bowels be feared, bleed according to 
the age, &c. of the patient. Give laudanum in 
large doses, and rub the belly well with warm spi- 
rits, and place him in a bath as hot as he can bear 
it. As soon as he is well dried, and has rested in 
bed a few minutes, take him up, and dash a bucket 
of cold water over his belly and thiglis, or mix 
an ounce of calcined magnesia in a pint of milk, 
and give a wine-glassful every half hour, until ease 
is obtained. If this, with castor oil by the mouth 
and in clysters, will not produce a stool, apply a 
lai'ge blister to the belly. As soon as the symptoms 
are somewhat abated, castor oil or laxative clysters 
may be resorted to for the purpose of keeping the 
body open; and to guard against a return, small 
doses of opium should be taken from time to lime. 
Bitters, the different preparations of iron, bark, 
&c. are necessary to restore tlie stretigth of the 
system. A modern pliysician of great eminence, 
recommends, (in all cases, where the disease is 
clearly owing to lead) a salivation, by rubbing in, 
on the wrists, night and morning, one drachm of 
strong mercurial ointment. 



ITortns. 

Symptoms. — Intolerable itching at the nose, 
sometimes at the fundament, tiisagreeable breath, 
gi'inding of the teeth and starting during sleep, 
hardness of the belly, gradual emaciation, colic, 
and sometimes convulsions. 

Treatment. — This will Vaiy according, to the 
kind of worm that is to be destroyed. They are 
of thi-ee kinds: 

The -white thread worm 

Resembles a small piece of white thread, and is 
usually found near the fundament, at the lower end 
of the guts, where it produces a contraction of the 
parts, and a most intolerable itching. Clysters of 
lime water will fiequently bring whole nests of 
thera away, and procure histant relief. The tinc- 
ture of aloes, below, Iiowever, is by far the best 
remedy known, for not only tliis, but the round 
worm. 

Tincture of aloes. — Socotorine aloes, 1 ounce, 
liquorice, 2 ounces, coriander seeds, half an ounce, 
gin, I pint. Digest in a bottle for a week, shak- 
ing the bottle frequently, then strain. The dose 
for a child is a tea-spoonful every morning, for an 
adult two table-spoonsful, with half the quantity 
of a strong decoction of the Carolina pink root. 
I'he round rjorm 

Occupies the small intestines and sometimes the 
stomach. It is of various lengths, from 3 to 8 or 
more inches. If the tincture of aloes fail to re- 
move it, the pink root may be taken in decoction, 
or in powder, in doses of 60 or 80 grains, to be fol- 
lowed after three or four days by ten or fifteen 
grains of calomel. Cowhage, in moiasses or honey, 
with a dose of castor oil every third day, has been 
very highly extolled. In cases where all other 
means have failed, tobacco leaves, pounded with vi- 
negar and applied to the belly, have produced the 
desired effect. 



The tape worm 

Inhabits the whole of the internal canal, and frc- 
quenly defies all our efforts to get him out of it. 
Large doses of spirits of turpentine, from one to 
two ounces, in barley water, have been advantage- 
ously employed for this purpose. If tlie spirits of 
turpentine be tried, large quantities of gruel or 
barley water should be used with it, in order to 
prevent its irritating the stomach and kidneys. 

By whatever means these troublesome guests arc 
got rid of, the patient should be careful to strengthen 
his system and bowels, by a course of bark, bilfers, 
wine, See. and to use a great proportion of animal 
food in his diet. Repeated purging with calomel 
is, perhaps, as effectual a remedy for worms as we 
have, particularly if succeeded by the pink root tea. 

Infammation of the kidneys. 

Symptoms. — Deep seated pain in tlie small of the 
back, urine high-coloured and small in quantity, 
sometimes bloody, sickness at the stomach, vo- 
miting. 

Treatment. — This will depend upon the cause. 
If it proceed from gravel, the plan to be pursued 
will be detailed under that head. If it arise from 
any other, bleed the patient freely, repeat it in ten 
or twelve hours, if necessary, and put him into a 
warm bath. Twenty grains or more of the uva- 
ursi, with half a grain of opium three times a day, 
accompanied by small quantities of warm barley 
or rice water, is one of the most valuable remedies 
we are in possession of. The diet, during the at- 
tack, should consist of mucilaginous drinks only, 
which must be frequently taken, notwithstanding 
they may be rejected by vomiting. 

Gravel. 

Symptoms. — A fixed pain in the loins, numbness 
of the thigh, constant vomiting, retraction of the 
testicle, urine small in quantity, voided with pain, 
and sometimes bloody. As the gravel passes from 
the kidney into the bladder, the pain is so acute as 
to occasion fainting, &c. &c. 

Treatment. — Bleed the patient freely, and put 
him p.ito a warm bath, where he should remain 
some time. Meanwhile an emollient and anodyne 
clyster should be got ready, which must be given 
to him as soon as he leaves it. Cloths wrung out of 
decoctions of herbs or warm spirits and water, 
should be applied to the part, and small quantities 
of warm gum arabic tea or barley water be taken 
frequentl)-. A grain of opium, every two hours, 
will be found useful. Strong coffee, without sugar 
or cream, sometimes acts like a charm in soothing 
the pain: twenty drops of the spirits of turpentine, 
taken on a lump of sugar every half hour, is said, 
by high authority, to do the same. If tlie irrita- 
tion of the stomach is very great, the effervescing 
draught, with 30 or 40 drops of laudanum, may be 
tried. When the pain, &c. is somewhat abated, 
the bowels should be opened with castor oil. The 
uva-ursi, as before mentioned, is one of the most 
valuable remedies in all diseases of the kidneys 
that we have. Blisters in all si ch cases are never 
to be applied. Persons subject to this distressing 
complaint, should be careful to avoid acids and 
fermented liquors of all kinds, including the red 
wines, beer, pickles, &c. For a common drink, 
soft water, or the seltzer and soda waters are to 
be preferred. When any threatening symptoms 
are perceived, recourse should be had to the uva- 
ursi, in small doses of ten or twelve graia.*, with 
half a grain of opium three times a day, to ue «on- 
tinued for weeks. 



Lifammation of the bladder. 
Symptoms. — Pain and swelling of the bladder. 



MEDICINE. 



209 



the pain increased by pressure, a frequent desire to 
make water, which either comes away in small 
•juantities or is totally suppressed. 

Treatmait. — Bleed the patient freely, according 
to his age and strength, and put him in the •warm 
bath. Inject mucilaginous and laxative clysters, 
and pursue ihe exact jdun of treatment that is re- 
commended for the cause from wliicli it may pro- 
ceed. See suppression of urine, ixc. 

Difficult 1/ nf urine. 

Siimploms. — A frequent desire to make water, 
attended with pain, Jieat, and difficulty in doing so; 
a fulness in the bladder. 

Treatment. — If it arise from simple irritation 
by blisters, Sec. plentiful draughts of warm liquids, 
as gum arable or barley water will be sufficient to 
I'emove it. If from any otlier cause, a bladder half 
filled with warm w;iter, or cloths wrung out of a 
varm decoctio?i of herbs, should be kept constantly 
applied over the parts, and mild clysters of tiiin 
starch be frequently injected. 

Suppresftion nf vririe. 

Siimpfonis. — Pain and swelling of the bladder, 
violent and fruitless attempts to make water, at- 
tended with excruciating pain, ise. 

Treatment. — As a total suppression of urine is 
always attended with coniiderable danger, tliere 
should be no delay in endeavouring to remove it. 
The first step is to bleed the patient, who should 
immediately after be placed in the warm bath. 
^V^hile he is there, a laxative and anodyne clyster 
must be got ready, which is to be given as soon as 
-he leaves it, and frequently repeated. In the mean 
Dime the warm fomentations, and bladder of hot 
vvater must be kept ajjplied, and the mixture below 
be taken eveiy three or four hours. If there be any 
difficulty in procuring it, twenty drops of laudanum 
in a little warm barley or rice water, or a decoc- 
tion of tiie dandelion, will answer in stead. Warm 
sweet oil or milk and water may be injected up the 
urethra, and G or 8 grains of camphor in a little 
milk be taken ever)' hour. 

If no relief is obtained by these means, apply 
snow or ice to the bladder, or make the palietit 
stand on a cold brick, or stone pavement, and dash 
cold water over his thighs, and if tliis fail, try the 
tobacco clyster, which sometimes succeeds after 
every thing else has been resorted to in vain. If a 
catheter can>be procured, try to pass it into the 
bladder while in the batb. If the patient himself 
c^innot do it, let a handy friend attempt it; if foiled 
in one position, try another, success is of the ut- 
most importance, f r there is nothing but an ope- 
ration, in the event of its not being obtained, that 
can save life. 

In every case of suppression of urine, the order 
of remedies tl\en are, blood-letting, the warm bath, 
laxatives and anodyne clysters, fomentations, or 
bladders half filled with warm water over the lower 
bell}', camplior and milk eveiy hour, or every three 
hours, passing the catheter, dashing cold water 
over the tiiighs and legs, or applying snow or ice 
to the bladder, and lastly, the tobacco clyster. 

Mixture. — Mucilage of gum arable, 1^ ounce, 
olive oil, '2 drachms. "llub them well together^. and 
add ether, 1 drachm, laudanum, 30 drops. 

Jncontinency of urine. 
Symptoms. — An involuntary dribbling or flow of 
urine. 

Treatrient. — If it arises from a relaxation or 
weakness of the parts, use the cold bath daily, ap- 
ply blisters between the fundament and the bag, 
Juid have recourse to bark and the diflerent tonics, 
2 li 



as iron, &c. recommended in indigestion. Twenty 
or thirty grains of the uva nrsi, twice or three 
times a day, with half a pint of lime water after 
each dose, may also be tried. If the disease is oc- 
casioned by a palsy of the parts, the tincture of 
Spanish flies may be of service. If a stone in the 
bladder is the cause, apply to a surgeon to cut it 
out. In the mean time, some kind of vessel shouM 
be attached to the yard, to receive the urine, in or- 
der to prevent it from excoriating the parts. 

Sto?ie in the bladder. 
^Symptoms. — A frequent desire to make •water, 
which comes away in small quantities at a time, 
and is often suddenly interrupted, the last drops of 
it occasioning pain in the head of the j-ard, riding 
over a rough road, or any irregular motion or jolt- 
ing, causes excruciating pain and bloody urine, ac- 
companied with a constant desire to go to stool, 
itching of the fundament, a nunr.bness in the thighs, 
&c., retraction or dra'ving up c tne testicle. 

Treatment. — Cutting out the stone is the only 
remedy. 

Diabetes, or an immoderate fo\o of urine. 

Symptoms. — Frequent discharges of large ([uan- 
tities of urine, wbicli is sometimes of a sweet taste, 
skin dry, bowuls costive, appetite voracious, weak- 
ness, and gradual emaciation of tlia whole body. 

Treatment. — The principal remedy for the cure 
of tliis disease, consists in confining tlie patient to 
a diet composed exclusively of animal food. Blis- 
ters may, also, be applied over tlie kidneys, and 
kept ojjen with the savin ointment. The prescrip- 
tion below has proved eniinentl)' successfid. Tlie 
carbonate of ammonia, in doses of 11 or 12 grains ' 
three times a day, is strongly recommended, upon 
high autljority. In addition to thase, opium in li- 
beral doses, exercise on horseback, the flesh-brush, 
and flamiel next the skin, are not to be neglected. 
The bowels should be kept open by rhubarb. 

Prescription. — Peruvian bark, uva ursi, of each , 
20 grains, opium h grain. Make a powder, to be 
taken three times a day with lime water. 



Dropsy of the belly. 

Symptoms. — A swelling of tlie belly, from wa- 
ter contained in it, preceded by a diminution of 
ui'ine, dry skin, and oppression at the breast. 

Treatment. — One of the most valuable remedies 
for dropsy is found in the claterium, one-foiu'tli of 
a grain of wiiich is a dose. As it is a most active 
article, it is proper to begin with one-sixteenth of 
a grain daily, which may be cautiously increased to 
a fourth, or till it is found to exert its full powers by 
bringing away large watery stools. From an ounce 
to an ounce and a half of cream of tartar, dissolv- 
ed in water, and taken daih', has frequently suc- 
ceeded in removing the complaint. As objections 
are sometimes made to the quantity of this latter 
article, h an oz. of it, with 1 ot 2 grs. of gamboge, 
every other day, may be substituted for it. Six 
grains of calomel, with one or two of gambngf^ 
taken twice or three times a week, have cured tlia 
disease. Bathing the feet before going to bed, and 
taking immediately after 20 grains of Dover's pow- 
der, by producing copious sweating, has produced 
tlie same- effect. 

Dropsy is, notwithstanding, a difficidt disease to 
cure, it must be attempted, however, by the use 
of such ai'ticles as we have mentioned, beginning 
with the first, and if it fail, proceeding to the next 
and so on. If the swelling increases to such an 
extent as to be absolutely insupportable, send for a 
surgeon to draw oft' the water. At the decline of 
the disease, tlie strength must be supported and 



210 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



restored by bark, wine, and the tonic plan recom- 
mended for indigestion. 

Tympany. 

Symptoma. — The symptoms of tympany, or a 
collection of air either in the intestines themselves 
or in the cavity of the belly, are more or less gra- 
dual in their approach. When the 'disease lies 
•within the intestines, it commences with wind in 
the stomach and bowels, which keeps iip a con- 
stant rumbling, belching, &c., colic, costiveness, 
diminution of urine, want of appetite, &c. When 
It is in the cavity of the belly, and outside the in- 
testines, the swelling is mucli greater, and very 
elastic, when it is struck, giving a hollow sound 
like a drum; there is no belching, kc. 

Treatment. — If the complaint is within the in- 
testines, keep the nozzle of a clyster-pipe up the 
fundament, to permit the wind to pass llu-ough it, 
in order to diminish the pressure on the bowels. 
Warm mint tea, ginger, horse-radish, ether, Cay- 
enne pepper, spices and essential oils, witli laxa- 
tive medicines and clysters, should be freely used, 
with a moderately tight broad bandage round the 
belly. If these means do not answer the end, warm 
and active purges must be resorted to, such as the 
compound tincture of senna or jalap. If no relief 
is obtained, and the costiveness continues obstinate, 
apply pounded iee to the belly. Ilubbing it with 
turpentine may, also, prove useful. It is very apt 
to terminate in death. 



,Gonorrhcea, or clap. 

Symptoms.— '^ tingling sens.'ition at the end of 
the yard, which swells, iooks red and inflamed, 
followed by a discharge of matter that stains the 
linen, first of a whitish, then of a yellow or green 
colour, a scalding pain in making water, involun- 
tary and painful erections. 

Treatment. — There are two kinds of this affec- 
tion, the mild and the virulent. The first is of so 
trivial a nature, that plentiful draughts of any 
soothing Tujuid, as, barley water or flaxseed tea, 
with a low diet, are sufticient to remove it. The 
second produces effects more or less violent on dif- 
ferent persons, and occasionally I'esiats for months 
every remedy, that can be thought of. If there be 
much pain and iuflijmmation in the penis, apply a 
bread and milk poultice to it, take a dose of salts, 
and lose some blood. This is the more necessary 
if in consequence of the swelling of the foreskin it 
cannot be drawn back, or being back, canaot be 
drawn forward. In the mean time, take pretty 
l.^rge doses of the balsam copaivje, daily. A very 
low diet should be adhered to, and the patient re- 
main perfectly quiet. 

A painful incurvation of the yard, called a chor- 
dee, may be relieved by dipping it into cold water, 
or suiTOunding it with cloths soaked in laudanum. 
To prevent it, take 50 or 60 drops of the latter ar- 
ticle on going to bed. 

If in consequence of violent exercise, or strong 
injections, the testicles swell, confine the patient 
on his back, bleed and purge him. Pounded ice 
or snow, or cloths dipped in cold vinegar or water, 
should also be applied to the parts, and a very low 
diet strictly observed. If, from the same cause, 
the glands in the groin are enlarged, treat them in 
like manner. 



Gleet. 



Symptoms. — The weeping of a thiji glairy fluid, 
like the white of an egg, from the penis, caused by 
a long continued clap. 

Treatment. — A gleet 's exceedingly difficult to 
get rid of, and frequently denes every effort that is 
made for that purpose. It must be attempted, how- 



ever, by the daily use of the cold bath, and 30 
drops of the muriated tincture of iron, taken three 
times a day, for months, in a glass of the cold in- 
fusion of bark. The best advice to be given in 
this case is to apply at once to an intelligent sur- 
geon. 



Inimhaitary emissions. 

Symptoms. — An involuntary emission of semen 
during sleep, inducing great emaciation and de- 
bility. 

Treatment. — Abstain from all sexual indulgence 
and lascivious ideas or books, sleep on a hai'd bed, 
use the cold batli dailj', with a generous and nour- 
isliing diet. Chalybeate water and all the different 
preparations of ii-on, with the cold infusion of bark 
and elixir of vitriol, as directed for indigestion, 
should be freely employed. 

Strictures. , 

Symptoms. — Adifiiculty in passing water, which, 
instead of flowing in a full stream, either dribbles 
away, twists like a corkscrew, or splits and forks 
in two or tiiree directions. They are occasioned 
by strong injections, long continued or ill treated 
clap. The cause, however, is not always to be 
satisfactorily ascertained. 

Treatment. — Procure several bougies of different 
sizes. Take the largest one, dip it iu sweet oil, 
and pass it into the lu-ethra till it meets with the 
stricture, tiien make a mark on the bougie, so that 
wlien it is withdrawn, you can tell how far down 
the passage the obstruction exists, and having as- 
certained this, take the smallest one, well oiled, 
and endeavour to pass it an inch or two beyond the 
stricture. If this can be accomplished, let it re- 
main so a few minutes. This must be repeated 
eveiy da)', letting the instrument remain somewhat 
longer eacli time it is passed, and after a ie,\v days, 
using one a little larger, and so on progressively, 
until the largest one can be introduced. If this 
fails, apply to a surgeon, who will destroy it wilii 
caustic. 



Syphilis, or pox. 

Symptoms. — Chancres and buboes are among 
the first symptoms of this dreadful malady, which, 
if not cliecked, goes on to cause an ulcerated 
throat, nodes, a destruction of the bones and cartil- 
ages of the nose, and the palate. The voice is 
lost, the hair falls oft", foul spreading ulcers show 
th<;mselves all over the body, the stench of wliich 
is insupportable, and before he dies, the miserable 
victim to it becomes a loathsome mass of corrup- 
tion. 

A chancre at first resembles a pimple, with a 
little pit or depression containing matter, which 
soon becomes an ulcer, with an irregular thickened 
edge, covered with a tougli, ash-coloured matter, 
the basis of which is hard and surrounded by in- 
flammation. It is generally found on the foreskin 
or head of the yard. 

A bubo is an enlargement of a gland in the 
groin, beginning in a small hard lump, not bigger 
than a bean, and increasing to the size of a hen's egg. 

A node is a hard tumour firmed on a bone. 

Treatme7it. — Apply at once to an intelligent 
physician. If this be impossible, confine the pa- 
tient to an extraordinary low diet, and keep the 
parts clean. A strong decoction of guaiacum and 
sarsaparilla may be used daily, and all stimulating 
substances must be avoided. Every one has some 
infallible receipt to cure this disorder; but in nine 
cases out of ten the remedy proves worse than the 
disease. As for the chancres, toucli them with 
lunar caustic, and apply a little piece of rag to 
them, smeared with red precipitate ointment. If 



MEDICINE. 



211 



they are situated under the foreskin, which is held 
over the head of the j'ard by a permanent phymosis, 
it (the foreskin) must be slit up. If there is a bubo, 
apply thirty leeches, and then cover it with several 
blisters, one after another. If this does not pre- 
vent its increasing, and the formation of matter is 
inevitable, apply poultices to it, and as soon as a 
fluctuation can be felt, let out its contents by seve- 
ral small punctures through the skin with a sharp 
lancet. To assist in the evacuation, press a soft 
sponge gently on the tumour. 



Cancel' of the yard. 

Spnptoms. — A small tumour, like a wart, upon 
the head of the yard or foreskin, followed by in- 
flammation and ulceration, which discharges a thin 
disagreeable fluid; after a time, a cancerous fungus 
is produced, attended by a most intolerable burn- 
ing and darting pain. 

Treatment. — Apply at once to a surgeon, who 
will cut it out — death is the only alternative. 

Venereal ^varts. 
Crops of these animal mushrooms sometimes 
spring up round the head of the yard, or on the 
foreskin. If flat, they may be destroyed by caus- 
tic, if mounted on a stem or foot-stalk, by tying a 
piece of thread tightly round it. 

J\1ercurinl disease. 

This is a complaint whose symptoms nearly re- 
semble tlie secondary ones of pox, consisting of 
blotches on the skin, pains at night, ulcers in the 
mouth, &c. 8cc. Owing to the liberal use of calo- 
mel, it is now a Very common disease, which is 
frequently confounded, (even by medical men) 
with genuine syjdiilis. 

Treatment. — Abandon every mercurial prepara- 
tion, use the decoction of guaiacum and sarsaparilla, 
the warm bath, and a mild nourishing diet. If 
ponsible, remove to a healthy situation in the coun- 
trj'. It is also necessary to take an occasional pur- 
gative of the flowers of sulpliur or of rhubarb. 

Dropsy of the bag. 

iSpnptoms. — A collection of water, which is first 
perceived at the bottom of the bag, increasing in 
size as it advances upwards,'and forming a tumour 
of the shape of a pear. If examined as directed 
for dropsy of the belly, the wavy motion may be 
felt, and if a candle be placed behind it, it becomes 
partly ti-ansparent. 

Treatment. — The only certain cure is an opera- 
tion, for which, as there is no pressing danger, 
apply to a surgeon. There are three species of 
this dropsy, in one of which the water is contained 
within the lining of the bag; another, within the 
covering of the spermatic cord, and the third, in 
the cellular membrane of the bag. The first we 
Ijave mentioned; the second occurs most frequently 
in children, it sometimes, however, is found in 
adults, and very much resembles a rupture. The 
treatment is the same as in the first. The third 
may be distinguished by a dougliy feel and irregu- 
lar shape. It is to be cured by small punctures 
with the point of a lancet, to let out the water, and 
by suspending the testicle. 

Enlarged spermatic vein, 
Sl'mptoms. — A hard knotty and in-egular swel- 
ling of the vein, which sometimes increases to a 
!arge size. When lying down, the swelling di- 
minishes, which distinguishes it from a dropsy of 
the parts. 

Treatment. — Suspend the testicles, or keep the 
patient on his back; apply lotions of lead water to 
tlie parts; the cold batlv 



Cancel' of the testicle. 

Symptoms, — ^I'he testicle is enlarged, hardened, 
craggy and unequal in its surface, painful on be- 
ing handled, with iiTegular pains shooting up the 
groin, into the back, without any previous inflam- 
mation, disease, or external violence. 

Treatment. — Apply immediately to a surgeon. 
Castration, and that at an early stage of the dis- 
ease, is the only remedy that can save life. Be 
cartful, however, to distinguish it from simple 
swelling of the testicle by inflammation, blows, &c. 
AVhich see. 



Impotency. 

This is of three kinds. The first arises from an 
original defect in the organs of generation. The 
second, from local debility of the parts, brought 
on by excessive venery, onanism, or some preced- 
ing disease, while the third originates from fear, 
excess of passion, or want of confidence at the mo- 
ment of coition. 

The first is incurable. The second must be treat- 
ed ijy the general principles and remedies point- 
ed out for restoring the strength of tlie system, 
consisting of tlie cold batli, preparations of iron, 
bark, elixir of vitriol, generous'diet, exercise, and 
by steadily avoiding the causes wliich may have 
produced it. The remedies for the third must be 
souglit for in calming excessive agitation, and ac- 
quiring, by habits of intimacy, tliat confidence they 
are sure to produce. 

Gout, * 

Symptoms, — Pain in tiie small joints, generally 
in the ball of the great toe, the parts swollen and 
red, the attack coming on in the night. Such are 
the striking symptoms of this disease, and general- 
ly the first that are noticed. It is occasionally, 
however, ])receded by all those attendant on indi- 
gestion. In the advanced stages chalky lumps are 
formed in the joints. 

Treatment, — If the patient be young, vigorous, 
having the disease for the first time, bleed and 
purge hira, confine him to a low diet, and treat it 
exactly as an inflammation arising from any other 
cause. To procure sweating, Dover's powder may 
be taken on going to bed. As soon as the inflam- 
mation, by these means, is rei^uced, use the cold 
bath, and take strong exercise on foot, daily, — 
avoid high seasoned food, featlier beds, wine, acids 
and fermented liquors, for the remainder of your 
life! Gout is the child of indolence and intem- 
perance, and to avoid it, the above means must be 
employed, and steadily persevered in. 

If, however, the patient is old or infirm, and 
subject to regular fits of it, he must not be handled 
so roughly. The most perfect rest should be ob- 
served, and the parts lightly covered with fleecy 
hosiery, and flannel cloths wetted with the lotion 
below, made milk-warm. The bowels should be 
opened with some warm laxative. In a regular fit 
of the gout, this is all that can be done. The de- 
gree of warmth that is applied to the part, must be 
regulated by the feelings of the patient, who, if 
w^ak, may use a nourishing diet, if strong, a moi-e 
abstemious one. 

If from any cause, the disease leaves the extre- 
mities and flies to the stomacli, apply mustard 
poultices and blisters to the soles of the feet and 
ankles, give large doses of ether and laudanum, 
hot wine, brandy. Sec; and endeavour by all sucli 
means (including the hot bath) to send it back 
again. 

If tlie head be the part it is transferred to, and 
apoplexy is produced by it, take away 15 or 20 
ounces of blood immediately, and give active pur- 
gatives, as 10 or 15 grains of calomel, followed by 



212 



UXn'ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



senna tea or Ei)i5otn salts. If, in a few hours, the 
patient is not relieved, the head continuing confus- 
ed and painful, and the pulse full and thiobbing, 
hleed him again to the amount of 10 or V2 ounces, 
and apply cold vinegar and water constantly to the 
part. 

Goni lotion. — Alcohol, .■? ounces, camphor mix- 
ture, 9 ounces, i*ender tlie whole milk-warm by 
adding a sufficient quantity of boiling water. 



Inflatnmaiory rheumatism. 

Symptoms.— V-Mn, swelling and inflammation in 
some-one (or several) of the larger joints. Tiie 
pain shifting from one part to another, all the 
symptoms of fever, pulse full and hard, tongue 
■white, bowels costive, and urine high-coloured. 

Treatment. — Bleed the patient freely, or until 
the pulse is sensibly affected by it, and purge him 
■with salts and senna. Tiie Dover's powder should 
T)e taken to procure sweating, and a very low diet 
be strictly observed. If the pain continue severe, 
and the blood already drawn shows a yellow or 
Imffy coat, bleed again and again. The inflamma- 
tion must be reduced, and we are not to lay aside 
the lancet till that is done. In severe cases I liave 
known it necessary to bleed twice a da)', for four 
or five days in succession. Active purging with 
salts and senna must not be neglected. When tlie 
disease is overcome, if in consequence of the bleed- 
ing, )kc. the patient is left very low and weak, 
■wrap him up in blankets, give him warm, notU'ish- 
ing food, wine, &c. Sec. 

Chronic rheumatism. 

Symptoms. — A chronic rheumatism is notliing 
more than one of long standing. It is unaccom- 
panied by fever, and makes its attacks on every 
change of weather, on getting wet, kc. &g. It is 
frequently caused by inflammatory rlieumatism, 
and sometimes seems to exist as a primary affec- 
tion. 

Treatment. — I have found no one plan of treat- 
ment in this species of the disease, so cftectual as 
the following: purge with senna and salts, every 
other day, rub the jjarts well with the volatile lini- 
ment, and use the Cayenne pepper, and mustard 
at dinner, in large quantities, and on going to bed 
30 drops of laudanum, with a tea-spoonful of the 
tincture of guaiacum. It is to be recollected, that 
this is applicable only to chronic cases; if there is 
fever, &c. it will do much damage. Should tliere 
be any cause to suspect that a venereal taint is con- 
nected with it, have recourse to the decoction of 
guaiacum and sarsaparilla. A large blister fre- 
tjuently relieves the whole of the symptoms in tlie 
course of a night. The best safeguard against the 
complaint is the use of flannel ne.Yt tlie diin, win- 
ter and summer. 



Hip-Joint disease. 
Symptoms. — ^E\cruciating pain in the hip-joint 
and knee, the leg becomes first longer, then short- 
er than its fellow, ^^"hen lying down the foot rolls 

^ outwards, the buttocks appearing flatter than usual, 
lameness, after a while abscesses in various parts 
of tiie thigh, hectic fever, &c. 

Treatment.— Apply blisters to the part, and if 
there be much inflammation, bleed, make a caus- 
tic issue in the little hollow at the top and out- 
outside of the thigh, and use all the remedies di- 
rected for scrofula. Long continued purging with 

■ jalap and cream of tartar (eveiy other day) should 
Jiever be neglected. The diet should be vegeta- 
ble, and the limb kept at rest. When matter is 
formed, bark, wine, and a generous diet must be 
employed. It mostly pixjves incurable. 



Dropsy of the knee joint. 

Symptoms. — The joint swells, the skin remain- 
ing of a natural colour. By placing the hand on 
one side of it, and striking it gently on the other, 
the wavy or fluctuating motion is perceptible, stea- 
dy pressure on one side 'will raise the other above 
its natural level. 

Treatment. — Keep a perpetual blister on the 
joint, or make a caustic issue below it, on thti in- 
side of the leg, cold water from the si)nut of a tea- 
kettle is a useful application. Camphorated mer- 
curial ointment to the knee, and mercury taken 
internally, have sometimes been of service. 



White s-tvelUng. 

Symptoms. — ^Deeply seated jiains in the knee, 
unattended at first by swelling, which at last comes 
on with increase of pain. At'ter a while the juint 
enlarges, matter is sometimes discharged, hectic 
fever follows, and cuts oft' the patient. 

Treatment. — If from scrofula, use the general 
remedies directed for that disease, and ap[)ly a 
blister to the part, which must be kept open by the 
savin ointment, for months: if from blows, apply 
the blister as before, bleed and purge freely, and 
act as directed in cases of similar accidents. If in 
spile of these precautions, tlie disease continues to 
advance, amputation is the only resourcft. 



Pieces of cartilage in the joints. 
Portions of cartdage are sometimes formed in 
the joints, where they act like any other foreign 
body of a similar texture. "While in the hoUoxvs 
of t'he part, they give no uneasiness, but as they 
frequently slip in between the ends of the bones, 
causing excruciating pain, it is sometimes neces- 
sary to cut them out. For tliis jjurpose apply to a 
surgeon. As all openings into the cavities of the 
joints are attended with raucii danger, unless the 
pain be insupportal)le, it is better to endure the 
inconvenience than to run the risk of the operation. 



Scrofula, or kiiig''s evil. 

Symptoms. — Hard and indolent svellings of the 
glands of the neck, that when ripe, instead of mat- 
ter, di>^charge a whitish curd. It mostly occurs 
in persons of a fair comj lexion, blue eyes, and de- 
licate make. In bad cases, the joints swell with 
great pain, the limbs waste away, the ligaments 
and bones are destroyed, when hectic fever soon 
relieves the patient from his misery. 

Treatment. — Sea-water is generally considered 
the great remedy in scrofula. It is to be used 
daily as a bath, and a small poition of it taken in- 
teru.dly. IVIade milk-warm, it forms one of the 
most excellent local apjilications that we have, 
WHien the swellings break, a very strong decoction 
of^ hemlock may be advantageously used fur tlie 
same purpose. The diet should be mild and nou- 
rishing. Scrofula is seldom, if ever, cure<I. After 
a fair trial, therefore, of the waters of the occ.'in, 
recourse should be liad to any new remedy that 
may seem to promise relief. Fatal as this disease 
gener.ally proves, it is due to humanity to state, 
that among the numerous remedies recommended 
for it, the panacea of Mr Swaim has jn-oved the 
most sviccessful. Be its composition what it may, 
it has succeeded more frequently than any othei 
plan of Ueatinent. 

Inf Limed glands. 
Every gland in the body is subject to inflamma- 
tion. Whenever one of them is perceived to be 
in this state, which may be known by the swelling 
and pain, measures slrould be taken to reduce it, 
for fear of Us proceeding to what is called seir* 



MEDICINE. 



213 



-bus, and finally to cancer. Leeches, blisters, and 
ill the remedies directed for such purposes, should 
t^e actively employed, amonij which, purging;, 
bleeding, and a low diet, must not be neglected. 



' . Scirrhns. 

Sifmf)foms. — A hard tumoui-, unequal on its sur- 
face, and not very sensible, giving but little or no 
pain on l)eing handled. 

Treatment. — Do not meddle with the tumour, 
but apply to a surgeon as soon as possible. 

Cancer. 
Siiinptoms. — A tvuTiour, differing from the 
preceding one, by being surrounded with en- 
larged veins. It is, also, more painful, the skin 
being sometimes discoloured and puckered. The 
■whole tumour is particularly hea\7, and at last 
breaks into a malignant ulcer or sore, whose 
edges are raised, ragged, uneven, and curl over 
like the leaves of a flower; white streaks or 
bands cross it from the centre to the circumference. 
Acute and darting pains accompany both this and 
the preceding stage of the disease. 

Treatment. — There is but one remedy that can 
be depended on for the cure of this painful and inve- 
terate complaint, and even tliat should be resorted 
to early, in order to ensure success. All the diseased 
parts must be cut out. Arsenic, corrosive subli- 
mate, phosphate of iron, and a thousand other 
articles, have been recommended, both externally 
and internally, but without any elTt;ctual advantage. 
To relieve the pain, opium may be taken in large 
doses. A very low diet, (such as barely sufficient 
to support life) of milk andTegetables, will pro- 
duce the same effect. The sore should be defend- 
e<l from the air, by some mild ointment. Pow- 
dered chalk, scraped carrots, fresh hemlock leaves, 
and powdered charcoal, may be used for the same 
purpose. 



Goitre. 

Symptoms. — A tumour in the fore part of the 
throat, seated in a gland close to the projection 
called " Adam's apple." 

Treatment. — Goitre is incurable. M'hen taken 
at the very beginning of the complaint, however, 
and in young persons, it is said to have been dis- 
persed by a course of mercury, joined to frictions 
of tlie part, with strong mercurial ointment. As 
it seldom causes any inconvenience, and isTilways 
nnatlended by pain, it is not a matter of much con- 
sequence. The inhabitants of the Alps consider it 
a mark of beauty, and there are some cantons 
where every man, woman, and child, is adorned 
•with a tumour of this nature, of which they would 
feel veiy sorrj' to be deprived. The only I'emedy 
that has ever seemed to be of use is burnt sponge. 
It cannot be cut out, on account of the great num- 
ber of blood-vessels of which it is composed. 

Fainting. 

Causes. — Sudden and violent emotions of the 
Miind; bleeding; diseases of the heart and its great 
vessels. 

Treatment. — Lay the person on his back, take 
off Ids cravat, then open the doors and windows, 
and sprinkle cold water in his face. Smelling 
salts may be held to his nose. 



Apoplexy, 

Symptoms. — Falling wiiiiout sense or motion, 
profound sleep; face livid or flushed; eyes wide 
open or half closed, and immoveable; breathing 
low, labouring, and irregular. 

Causes. — A rushing of blood to the head, ex- 
ecBsJve fat in persons wiili a short neck, gluttony, 



violent exercise, mtense heat, anger, hearty meat 
suppers, blows on the head, intoxication, &c. &c. 

'J'reatment. — If the pulse remains full, the face 
flushed, kc. take away twenty ounces or more of 
blood ou the spot, remove the cravat, unbutton 
llie shirt collar, and i)lace the patient in bed, with 
his head and shoulders a little elevated. The 
windows and doors must be thrown open, and no 
more persons tlian are necessary, be allowed to 
remain in the room. Tlie head is to be shaved and 
cupiied. a blister applied to the back of the neck 
and t!ie head, ami mustard poultices to the feet. 
An active purgative should always be administeretl 
as soon as the patient is bled, and its operation 
assisted by repeated clysters. If the patient cannot 
swallow jjills, try liquids, if neither, have recourse 
to a strong purgative clyster. If by tliese means, 
the breathing is not easier, and the pulse softer, 
bleed again and again. 

If, however, the patient is old and infirm, and 
the attack has come on more gradually, if the 
pulse is weak, and the face pale, bleed moderately, 
and give immediately a warm purgative, apply the 
blisters, &c. If it arises from swallowing vegeta- 
ble poisons, give an active emetic, as 30 grains of 
wliite vitriol, and act as directed in cases of simi- 
lar accidents. In this second kin^ of apoplexy, 
stimulants, as hartsliorn to the nose, &c. may be 
used; in the first, they are very injurious, and 
should never be employed. 



Strnhe of the sun. 
This proceeds from exposure to the sun's rays, 
and exhibits the same symptoms as apoplexy, com- 
mencing with vertigo, loss of sight, ringing in the 
ears, he. and must be treated by large and repeated 
bleedings, and in every other respect as directed 
for apoplexy. 

Epilepsy. 

Symptoms. — A fit, in which the patient falls to 
the ground in a convulsion; the eyes are distorted 
and turned up, hands clenched, foaming at ihi; 
mouth, convulsions, the whole ending in a deep 
sleep. 

Treatment. — Keep the patient from hurting 
himself, by holding his hands, legs, and particu- 
larly his iiead, which lie is apt to dash violently 
against the ground, or surrounding objects. A 
piece of soft wood should be placed between his 
teeth, to prevent his tongue from being bitten. 
This is, in general, all that can be done during the 
tit. If, however, there are symptoms of great de- 
termination of blood to the head, bleeding should 
not be neglected. White vitriol, the misleto, car- 
bonate of iron, &c. &c. have been recommended 
and tried for the cure of this complaint, but in vain. 

The oxide of zinc may, however, be tried. It is 
taken in pills of a grain each, one three times a 
day, gradually increasing this dose to five at a time. 
To reap any benefit from this medicine, it is neces- 
sary to persevere in it for months. If it fails, 
steady and long continued purging should here- 
sorted to. Large doses of spirits of turpentine 
are said to have afforded relief. The diet, in all 
cases, should be vegetable, and if symptoms of 
fulness of blood be present, it will be proper to 
bleed. Persons subject to these fits, should never 
be left alone, or nde on horseback, for obvious 
reasons. 



Palsy. 



Symptoms. — A partial or complete loss of the 
powers of motion, and the sensibility of particular 
parts of the body; the pulse soft and slow. 

Treatment. — In a young and robust person, it 
will be proper to bleed freely, and give an active 



214 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



purgative. In old people, or where the ])owers of 
the body are much weakened, warm laxative medi- 
cines, with stimulating applications, as the flesh 
brush, hlisters, mustard j)oultices, and rubbing the 
spine with the volatile liniment, form the best plan 
of treatment. If it aftect ditlerent parts of tlie 
body at once, horse-radish, mustard, and Cayenne 
pepper, should be used liberall)', as they are pre- 
pared for table. If a swelling or tumour be found 
on tlie back bone, or any injury has been done to 
it, which may have caused the disease, caustic 
issues must be placed on each side of it, and as 
near the injured part as possible. The diet should 
be light and nourishing. The wsrm balji must 
not be nesflected. 



Tetanus, or cramp. 
There are several very long and very learned 
names Mxed to this disease, as it may happen to 
attack one part of the body or another. When it is 
confined to the muscles of the neck and jaws, 
locked-jaw is the common and expressive term for 
it. The affection, however, is always the same, 
requires similar treatment, and consists in an in- 
voluntary contraction and stiffening of a part of the 
muscles, the senses remaining perfect. 

Locked-jaw. 

Symptoms. — A stiffness in the back of the neck, 
vhich renders it first painful, and at last impossi- 
ble to turn the head round; difficulty in swallow- 
ing; pain in the breast shooting to the back; the 
lower jaw becomes stiff, and gradually closes. 

Treatment. — If the disease is supposed to arise 
from a Avounded nerve, or from an injury done to 
tendinous parts, by a pointed instrument", enlarge 
the wound with a sharp lancet, or penknife, and 
l)0ur laudanum or turi)entine into it, as directed 
for similar accidents. Blood-letting to a great ex- 
tent, is often attended with the most happy results, 
and shouhl never be omitted. From a robust man 
take 30 ounces. This being done, give 2 or 3 
grains of opium at once, and repeat it every two 
hours, increasing the dose according to the vio- 
lence of the symptoms and the effects produced by 
it, without regarding the quantity that has been 
taken. Cases are on record, where GO grains (a 
drachm) of solid opium have been taken at once, 
and with the happiest effect. This, however, is a 
large dose, and should never be ventured on, but 
under the most desperate and alarming circum- 
stances. Active purging with castor oil and senna 
tea, must not be omitted, and if the power of swal- 
lowing be lost, laudanum, Sec. must be given in 
clysters. Drawing a tooth is generally recom- 
mended by physicians in those cases where the 
jaws are firmly closed, for the purpose of trans- 
mitting medicines and food to the stomach. This 
has always appeared to me as every way calculated 
to increase the evil. If no opening exists between 
the teeth, access can always be obtained by clys- 
ters, and in this way nourishment and remedies 
may be injected. It is always proper, however, 
■when the disease is perceived to be coming on, to 
place two small pieces of soft wood between the 
grinders of the upper and lower jaw, one on each 
side, so that they may be kept asunder. 

Madeira wine, in doses of a wine glassful every 
hour, continued for several days, and combined 
with the internal use of mercuiy and tlie warm 
bath, has bee^^ found of great service. Cold water 
dashed freely over the patient, every two or three 
hours, may likewise be tried. After every affusion, 
he should be well wiped, and put into a warm bed, 
when a large dose ot laudanum in warm Madeira 
wine, should be given. The tobacco clyster has 
sometimes succeeded when every thing else hiS 



failed. During the relaxation wnich it occasi'ons, 
opium, wine, Jkc. must be freely administered. 
Blistering the whole length of the spine, and caus- 
tic issues on its sides, as nearly on a line with the 
parts affected as possible, are strongly recom- 
mended. 

Although a valuable addition to our means ot 
cure, the tobacco clyster is not to be employed 
lightly, or on common occasions. It should always 
be reserved to the last moment, never using it until 
every thing else has failed. The prostration of 
the system, and other alarming symptoms, it some- 
times causes, renders this caution necessary. 

Painful affection of the nerves of the face. 

This disease, also called tic-doloureux, neural- 
gia, &c. is of very rare occurrence. As it is, how- 
ever, sometimes met with, it is proper to notice it. 

Symptoms. — A very severe pain darting in par- 
ticular directions, not lasting more than a second, 
but very rapidly repeated, and e\cited by the 
slightest touch; during the intervals there is no 
pain whatever. There is no inflammation or swel- 
ling of the cheek, as in toothache, nor does the 
pain seem so deeply seated. 

Treatment. — Blisters, leeches, mercurial oint- 
ment, opium, and Fowler's solution of arsenic, 
with many other remedies of the same class, have 
been all recommended and used for the cure of 
this most painful of all the affections to which the 
human body is subject. Where the pains are so 
excessive as not to be borne, two grains or two 
grains and a half of the extract of belladonna, may 
be taken every three hours. When the pain is 
somewhat relieved, this quantity must be diminish- 
ed. For a cure, apply to a skilful surgeon, who 
will divide the nerves. 



Jlnpna pectoris. 

Symptoms. — An acute pain at the lower end of 
the breast bone, shooting into the left arm; great 
difficulty of breathing; anxiety; palpitation of the 
heart; a feeling of suffocation. It usually comes on 
while ascending a hill, or going up stairs. 

Treatment. — During the fit, place the patient on 
his back and bleed him. If fainting, dash cold 
water in his face. Should this not rouse him- 
in a few minutes, apply a blister to the chest. 
Stri])S of linen, moistened with the solution below, 
applied several times a day to the breast bone for 
a month, are said to hijve effected complete cures. 
They act by producing a crop of prmples, on the 
appearance of which tiie disease declines. 

Persons subject to this complaint, should avoid 
all fermentable food, and excess in eating or 
drinking, taking care to live quietly, and to keep 
the bowels open. Bleeding and purging, followed 
by opium, to lessen the spasm, with tlie warm 
bath, and a perpetual blister or plaster of the tartar 
emetic ointment to the chest, are perhaps the best 
remedies that can be employed. 

Tartar emetic, one drachm; spirits of camphor, 
half an ounce; boiling water, one pint. Mix. 

Dance of St Vitus. 

Symptoms. — Irregular and convulsive motions of 
the limbs and head, generally of the arm and leg 
of cue side only. It varies, however, in different 
persons, and is frequently counterfeited by beg- 
gars. 

Treatment. — The daily use of the cold bath, 
with the Peruvian bark, has often succeeded in 
curing the complaint in young subjects. In addi- 
tion to these, any of the preparations of iron com- 
bined with large doses of musk, opium, camphor, 
&cc. may be tried. Active and long continued 
purging sometimes produces the happiest results. _ 



MEDICINE. 



2t; 



^ Scarlet fiver. 

Symptoms. — Chills; heat; thirst; head ache; the 
skill is marked with large red or scarlet patches, 
which at last unite, disappearing in a kind of 
branny scurf; sore throat. 

Distinguish it from measles by the spots coming 
out on the second day of the fever. In measles 
they seldom appeaf until the fourth day. By their 
colour, which is that of a boiled lobster, whereas in 
measles it is of a dark red. 

Treatment. — An emetic (ipecacuanha) should be 
given on tiie first appearance of the disease, to be 
tollowed by a dose of salts, or eight grains of oalo- 
mel, with as m.^ny of rhubarb. If the pulse is full 
and strong, tlie head aches, and the heat great, 
draw blood, and dash cold water over the body 
very freely and frequently. There is no disease in 
■which the advantages of cold affusion are more 
striking. In order to reap the full benefit of it, 
kowever, it must be freely employed, that is, as 
often as heat, &c. seem to require it, or eight or 
ten times in the twenty-fom* hours. The saline mix- 
ture, p. 199, is of great use. If there is any soreness 
of the throat, the gargles recommended for that 
complaint, should be used, and a mustard poultice 
be applied to the parts. If symptoms of putres- 
cency appear, have recourse to the plan recom- 
mend for putrid sore throat. As scarlet fever is 
undoubtedly contagious, the usual precautions 
should of course be adopted. 

Writers on this subject generally consider scar- 
let fever as consisting of three kinds, viz. The sim- 
ple fever, the fever with sore throat, and the fever 
with putrid sore throat. The treatment of the 
first should be like that of any other inflammatory 
fever; that of the second, has been detailed in 
speaking of inflammatory sore throat; and the last 
is precisely that of putrid sore throat. 

Erysipelas, or St Anthony'' sjl re. 

Symptoms, — Fever, delirium, vomiting, pulse 
strong or weak as the fever inclines to the inflam- 
matory or typhus kind, on the fourth day, some- 
times on the second or third, the skin in some one 
part becomes red and inflamed, which is soon ex- 
tended to others, the parts affected being swollen 
and of a bright scarlet. If the face is attacked, it 
spreads itself on the scalp, and the eyelids some- 
times swell so as to prevent the patient from see- 
ing; after a longer or shorter period, the eruption 
ends in small watery vesicles, or in branny scales. 
At this period, the fever sometimes abates, at 
Others, drowsiness or delirium comes on, which 
increases it, and destroys the patient by the ele- 
venth day. 

Treatment. — This disease is of two kinds. One 
of which is principally confined to the skin, while 
the other affects the whole system. If the accom- 
panying fever is inflammatory, bleeding will be 
proper, otherwise not. This operation is to be 
cautiously employed in erysipelas, as it sometimes 
runs into typhus. If, however, the patient is ro- 
bust, his head aches, and great marks of fulness 
and inflammation are evident, which is generally 
the case in this coui^ry, bleeding, purging with 
salts, and cooling drinks should be employed, to 
■which, also, ma)' be added, Dover's powders, bone- 
set tea, &c. to produce sweating. The room should 
be kept cool. If, on the contrary, the fever is a 
typhus, or unaccompanied by general inflamma- 
tion, and (as before observed) the patient is of a 
•weak and irritable habit of body, bleeding should 
never be resorted to. Opium, wine, bark, elixir 
of vitriol, and decoctions of the snake root, as re- 
commended for typhus, are necessary in this case, 
to guard against mortification, which sometimes 
fsnsues. 



As local applications, bathing the parts with lau- 
danum or lead water, or dusting them with rye 
meal or wheat flour, are the best. Should the dis- 
ease evidently be confined to the skin, the applica- 
tion of a blister will sometimes put an end to it. 
If abscesses form, large openings must be made to 
let out the matter and dead parts. When the first 
or inflammatory kind prevails, the diet should be 
barley, sago, panada, &c. with lemonade, tama- 
rind 'wa^^r, &c. for drink. And, on the contrary, 
when the second, or typhus form of it (especially 
if accompanied by putrid symptoms,) shows itself, 
a more generous diet, with a moderate quantity of 
wine, &c. must be emploj'ed. 

It may not be useless again to observe, that ini 
the United States, erysipelas, nine times out of 
ten, calls for reducing and cooling measures. 
Among the various articles which are employed in 
this, as well as all inflammatory diseases, none 
ranks higher than lemonade, which should always 
(if possible) be made from the fresh fruit. When 
t.^.ken cold, and in liberal quantities, it is not only 
delicious to the palate of the patient, but tends 
powerfully to cure the complaint. 

Mercurial erysipelas. 

Symptoms. — Heat, redness and roughness, com- 
mencing either in the groin, bag, inside of the 
thigh, or bend of the arm, which slowly and gra- 
dually extend over the whole body, which becomes 
slightly swollen, is tender to the touch, and itches 
dreadfully. The roughness is occasioned by small 
vesicles or blisters containing a fluid, which at first 
cannot be seen without a glass, but if not disturb- 
ed, acquire the size of a pin's head. When they 
are broken, the matter corrodes the skin where- 
ever it touches, so that at last, the patient is raw 
from head to foot. It sometimes occasions the loss 
of the hair in every part of the body. 

Treatment,— Omit all mercurial preparations, 
keep the bowels gently open with Epsom salts, use 
the warm bath frequently, take opium at night, 
and dust the parts with flour or starch. If symp- 
toms of putrescency appear meet them with bark, 
wine, &c. 

JMeusles. 

Symptoms. — Inflammatory fever, dry cough anii 
hoarseness, sneezing, watering of the eyes, which 
itch, a running from the nose, great drowsiness. 
On the fourth day, small red points break out, first 
on the face, and then gradually over the body. 
They are in clusters, and on passing the hand over 
them, are found to be a little raised. On the fifth 
or sixth day the vivid red is changed to a brown, 
and the eruption goes oft'. 

Distinguish it from small-pox and all other dis- 
eases, by the dr)' cough and hoarseness, by the ap- 
pearances of the eyes, which t^re red, swollen, and 
loaded with tears. 

Treatment. — The patient must be confined to a 
low diet, and kept in bed, with as much covering 
(but no more) as may be agreeable to his feelings. 
The room should be cool, and if there is much 
fever and pain in the head, bleeding is necessary. 
Should there be pain and oppression at the breast, 
apply a blister. The bowels may be opened by 
salts. The mild form of measles ought to be treat- 
ed like any otlier inflammatory complaint, taking 
care, however, not to repel the eruption hy cold. 
If this happens, place the patient in a warm bath, 
give him warm wine, &c. ii;ternally, and apply 
nmstard poultices and blisters to the feet and 
ankles. 

There is another and more dangerous kind of 
tills disease, which may be known by the fever be- 
ing a typhus, and by all the symptoms showing a 



Sl'J 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



putrid tendency. The moment tliis is perceived, 
li5ve recourse to bark, wine, muriatic acid, &c. &c. 
ns directed in puti-id lever. 

Chicken-pox. 

Si/n'ploms. — Fever, inability to sleep, pain in 
diflerei.t parts of the body, a crop of small pimples 
or pointi on the back, ■which, by the second day, 
»\re clian.-^ed into little blisters, which are ripe on 
the third, end disappear before the fifth day, witli- 
out formiaj true pus or matter, and leaving no 
marks or pits behind them. 

Distinguish it from small-pox, by the eruption 
coming out on the back, by the mildness of tlie 
fever, by the fluid contained in the vesicles or 
blisters not being true pus, and by the whole fall- 
ing off in scales on the fifth day. 

Treatment. — Confine the patient to his bed, keep 
him cool and (]uiet, and give him a dose of salts. 
This is all that is necessarv. 



CoiV-pQX. 

Symptoms. — A pimple at the spot where the 
inatter was inserted, which gradually undergoes 
certain regular changes, that characterize the com- 
plaint. 

Cliajiges of genuine cow-pox. — On the second 
day, or sooner, from the time of the operation, 
a small speck of inflammation is to hn perceiv- 
ed, which, on the' fourth day, is a pimple, sur- 
rounded by a circle of inHatnmalion. On the fifth, 
this pimple changes to a vesicle containing a thin 
fluid. On the sixth, this vesicle is more perfect, 
its margin forming a regular circle; it is also a lit- 
tle fiatten'ed on tiie toj), t!ie centre of which is of a 
tlark colour. On the eighth or ninth day, slight 
chills, flushes of heat, &c. are sometimes felt, ac- 
companied by swelling of the pustule, and pains 
shooting up into the arm jjit, llie glands or kernels 
of which occasionally swell. 

On t!-ie tenth or eleventh day, the pustule is sur- 
rounded' by a circular, vivid, inflammatory blush 
that is very beautiful. This is i-egarded as a de- 
cisive proof of the presence of the genuine cow- 
pox. On the eleventh day, tlie centre of the pus- 
Ude begins to grow of a dark colour, which grad- 
ually increases to a brown or mahogany one by liie 
end of the second week, when it ijegins to leave 
the skin, from wliich it is finally separated. 

Treatment. — If the pain, inflammation and swel- , 
ling, are excessive, reduce them by cold applica- i 
tions, a dose of salts, low diet, and'rest. 

Small-pox. 
■ Symptoms. — Inflammatory fever, drowsiness, 
pain in the pit of the stomach, increased by ]n-es- 
sure, pain in the back, vomitin«, on the third day 
the eruption breaks out on tjie face, neck and 
breast, in little red points tliat look like flea-bites, 
and which gradually ai)pear over the whole body. 
On the fifth day, little round vesicles, filled with a 
transparent fluid, appear on the top of each pim- 
ple. The eruptive fever now declines. On the 
ninth day the pustules are perfectly formed, being 
round and filled with a thick yellow matter, the 
liead and face also swelling considerably. On the 
eleventh day, the matter in the pustules is of a 
rfark yellow colour, the head grows less, while the 
ieet and hands begin to swell. The secondary fe- 
ver now makes its appearance. The pustules 
break and dry up in scabs and crusts, which at last 
fall ofi; leaving pits, which sufficiently mark the 
cause. 

Such are the symptoms of the distinct or mild 
small-pox, but it frequently assumes a more terri- 
ble shape, in what is called the confluent. In the 
latter, aU the symptoms are more violent from the 



beginning. The fever is a t3'phi.s, (hprc is deI'-« 
rium, preceded by great anxiety, heat, thirst, vo- 
miting, &c. The eruption is irregular, coming oat 
on the second day in ])alclies, the vesicles of whicli 
are flatted in, neither does the matter they contain 
turn to a yellow, but to a brown colour. Instead 
of the fever going oft' on the appearance of tl>e 
eruption, it is increased after tlie fifth day, and 
continues throughout the complaint. The face 
swells in a frigiitful manner, so as to close the 
eyes; sometimes putrid symptoms prevail from the 
commencement. 

Treatment. — Place the patient in a cool aii-y 
room, and let him be but lightly covered with bed 
clothes. Purge him every other day with .salts, 
and give him thirty drops of laudanum evciy uight. 
The diet slionld consist of panada, arrow root, ixc. 
and his drink consist of lemonade or water. If 
from any cause the eruption sli-ikes in, put him 
into the warm bath, give a little warm wine whey, 
or the wine alone, and apply blisters to the feet. 
Obstinate vomiting is to be quieted by the efler- 
vescing draught, with the addition of thirty drops 
of laudanum. 

In ilie confluent small-pox, the treatment must 
be varied as it inclines more oi^less to the inflam- 
matory or putrid type. If it inclines to the first, 
act as directed for the distinct kind, if to the last, 
emjiloy all those means directed in putrid fever. 
If the eyes are much afiected, it will he necessary 
to bathe them frequently with warm milk, and to 
smear the lids with some simple ointment. 



Itch. 



Symptoms. — An eruption of small pimples be- 
tween the fingers, on tlie wrists, and over the 
whole body, wliich form matter, and are attended 
with an intolerable itching. 

Treatment. — There are several varieties of tliis 
troublesome complaint, as the rank, watery, pocky, 
scorbutic, £cc. A very bad kind of it is contracted 
by dogs liiat have the mange. I'he remedy is sul- 
jihur. It should be used internally witii cream of 
tartar, so as to jiurge freely, and at the same time 
be applied externally, in vlie form of an ointment. 
Equal ]iortions of white vitriol, flour of sulphur, 
and laurel berries, made into a thin liniment with 
olive oil, is highly recommended as a local appli- 
cation. The following practice is said to be eft'ec- 
tual: Take of flour oi sulphur two ounces, and 
mix it well with two drachms of nitre; throw the 
mixture into a warming-]ian containing live coals, 
and pass the pan between the sheets in the usual 
manner. Tiie patient, stripjied to his skin, now 
gets into bed (taking care not to let the fumes es- 
cape) when tiie clothes should be tucked in all 
round him. Repeat the process ten or twelve 
times. The diet in all cases should be very low. 

Herpes. 

Symptoms. — fJroad itchy spots of a reddish or 
white colour, breaking out in different places, 
which at last run into each other, forming exten- 
sive ulcers, after a time they become covered with 
scales, which fall oft", leaving the surface below 
red; while the disease heals iu one part, it breaks 
out in another. 

Treatmeiit.—ThQ ointment of the oxide of zinc, 
is a very common application. Washing the parts 
with a solution of corrosive sublimate in water, one 
grain to the ovuice, is, however, to be preferred. 
The citrine ointment may also be tried, if these 
fail, apply a strong solution of blue vitriol to tlie 
ulcers, and take a grain of calomel morning and 
evening. The decoction of sarsaparilla and g^aia- 
cum may be used vvith them. If the disease resists 
the mercury, try Fowler's solution of arsenic, ia 



MEDICINE. 



217 



doses of five drops three times a day, to be pau- 
liously increased as directed for intermitting fe- 
vers. Tlie warm bath should never be neglected 
in cutaneous complaints. 

Scald head. 

Symptoms. — Inflammation of the skin of the 
head, which ends in a scabby eruption that tu^tends 
over the whole scalp. 

Causes.— WM\t of cleanliness, putting on the 
liat, using the comb, or sleeping in the bed of a 
person avIio has it. 

Treatment. — Shave the head close, wash it well 
•with warm soap and water, and cover it thickly 
with fresh powdered charcoal. One or two of iiie 
pills below should be taken every niglU, on going 
to bed. The bowels must be kept open by magnesia 
or Epsom salts. If this fails, try tlie citrine or tar 
ointment to the parts, witli a liberal use of the 
compound decoction of sarsaparilla. Tlie diet 
sliould be wholesome and nourisliing, avoiding spi- 
I'ituous liquors and salted meats. The warm batli 
should not be neglected. 

Pills for scald head. — Calomel half a drachm, 
tartar emetic 1 5 grains, opium half a drachm. Rub 
it into a smooth paste with simple syrup, and di- 
\ide it into 60 pills. 

Ring ivorm. 

Symptoms. — An eruption running in curved 
lines, generally in a circle, that itches when rubbed 
or when the body is heated. 

Treatment. — Into one ounce of water, throw 
more blue vitriol than it will dissolve, so as to form 
vliat is technically called a saturated solution. 
Touching the ulcerated p.irts with this liquid seve- 
ral times through the day, will alone frequently 
cure it. If this fails, apply the citrine or tar oint- 
ments. In very obstinate cases, recourse may be 
had to the pills for scald head, or to the usual 
xJoses of Fowler's solution. If it affects the head, 
shave it. In this, as well as all otlier diseases of 
the skin, the greatest cleanliness is necessary. 

JVettle-rash. 

Symptoms. — An eruption similar to that caused 
fay the stinging of nettles, whence its name. On 
rubbing the skin which itches, the eruption will 
suddenly appear, remain for a moment, and then 
vanish, breaking out in some other spot. The 
parts affected are swelled, at one time presenting 
the appearance of welts, as from the stroke of a 
whip-lash, and at another, that of white solid 
bumps. 

Treatment. — A few doses of Epsom salts, and a 
little attention to the diet, which should be rnild, 
are generally sufficient to remove it. If it proceed 
from eating poisonous fish, or any unwholesome 
food, take an emetic, &c. as directed in such cases. 

Slotched face. 

Symptoms.— An. eruption of hard, distinct tu- 
bercles or pimples, generally appearing on the face, 
but sometimes on the neck, breast and shoulders. 

Treut}ne7tt.— There are a great many varieties 
of this affection, some of which have been separate- 
ly treated of by Willan and other writers on dis- 
eases of the skin, to whom I would refer any one 
who is particularly interested therein. Notwith- 
standing ail that has been said on the subject, tliere 
is no disease more difficult to get rid of than this. 
\Vhere it arises from suppressed perspiration, high 
seasoned food, or intemperance, it may indeed be 
relieved by the warm bath, by sweating, purging, 
fuid a low diet; but "when it exists in persons who 
iiave always led temperate lives, and in whom it 
seems constitutional, medicine has but little eft'ect 
2 C 



on it. In all cases, however, the following plan 
may be adopted: take a dose of Epsom salts twice 
or thrice a week, use the warm bath daily, live on 
mush and milk exclusively, and drink nothing but 
water. The parts may be touched frequently witli 
the lotion below. If, after a trial of several months, 
this should not succeed, try Fowler's solution, or the 
pills for scald head, with tUe decoction of guaiacum 
and sarsaparilla. The various cosmetics and astrin- 
gent applications recommended for these affections 
are always prejudicial, for although they sometimes 
repress t!ie eruption, they occasion more severe 
and dangerous complaints. 

Lotion. — Take of corrosive sublimate 4 grains, 
of spirits of wine half an ounce; when the salt is 
dissolved, add of common gin and of water, each 
three ounces. 



Scurvy. 

St/mptoms. — Bleeding of the gums, teeth loose, 
spots of various coloui-s on the skin, generally livid, 
debility, countenance pale and bloated, pulse small, 
quick, and intermitting. In its advanced stage the 
joints swell, and blood bursts out from diiierent 
parts of the body. 

'J'reatment. — ^Remove the patient to a new and 
healthy situation, where the air is dry and pure; 
give liim plenty of fresh vegetables, such as spin- 
nage, lettuce, beets, carrots, and scurvy-grass. A 
small proportion of fresh animal food should be 
taken with them. This, witli oranges, lemons and 
sugar, or lemonade, spruce beer, with wine and 
water, are generally sufficient to cure the com-^ 
plaint. The nitric vinegar is strongly recommend-" 
ed for the same purpose. If there is much pain ia 
the bowels, laudanum must be used to relieve it. 
If the breathing is difficult, or there is much pain 
in the breast, apply a blister to it, for on no account 
si'ould blood be drawn in scurvy. A tea-spoonful 
of cliarcoal, well mixed with half a pint of vinegar, 
forms an excellent gargle to clean the gums and 
ulcers in the moutli. 'I'hose on the body may be 
washed with the same, or lemon juice, pure, or 
mixed with water. The yest or charcoal poultice 
may also be applied to them with advantage. To 
restore the tone of the system, recourse must be 
had to the Peruvian bark, with the elixir of 
vitriol, the rauriated tincture of iron, exercise, 
&cc. &.C. 

JVitric vinegar. — Dissolve three or four ounces 
of nitre (saltpetre) iu one quart of vinegar. - The 
dose is from half an ounce to an ounce. If the 
strength of it occasions any inconvenience, add a 
little water, or diminish the quantity of the dose. 

Of tumoxn s. 
By the word tumour is meant a swelling of any 
part of the body. They are of different kinds, 
arise from various causes, and are more or less 
dangerous, according to the nature of their con- 
tents, and the spot they occupy. 

Of ruptures. 

Ruptures are tumours caused by the prolusion 
of a part of the bowels through certain natural 
openings. They are divided into i-educible, irre- 
ducible, and strangulated. They mostly occur in 
men in the groin and bag. 

Causes. — Straining in any way, as at stool, 
vomiting, lifting heavy weights, violent exercise, 
as jumping, running, &c., a natural weakness of 
the parts. 

Reducible ruptures. 

Symptoms. — A small swelling, free from pam, 
and generally soft, the colour of the skin over it 
remaining unaltered. "While standing up, the 
swelling increaseB, on lying down, it decreases. 



218 



UNI^TERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the patient being able to return the parts himself, 
■while in that position. The swelling is also in- 
creased by coughing, sneezing, or straining as if at 
stool. If he is flatulent, a rumbling sensation 
may be felt in it. 

[Preaimeiit. — The patient should place himself 
on his bat-k, with his head and shoulders a little 
elevated, draw up his knees to his belly, and (if 
in this position the parts do not return of them- 
selves) endeavour to push or knead them up into 
the belly, through the opening at which they come 
out, and which, if the tumour be in the groin or 
bag, is an oval ring or slit in the groin, at the pre- 
cise spot where the swelling first appeared. Wiien 
this is etlected, he should remain quiet until a truss 
can be procured, the spring of which must be pass- 
ed round ids body, the pad be applied directly over 
the spot just meiitioned, and held there with one 
hand, while the other passes the strap into the 
buckle and draws it sufficiently tight. Having 
done this, he should get up and walk about. If 
the swelling no longer appears, the truss is pro- 
perly applied, if otherwise, take it off, return the 
parts as before, and apply it again; when, if on 
rising, walking about, slightly coughing. Sec. the 

Earts are fouTid to be wellkept up, he may resume 
is ordinary business. The truss should be worn 
night and day, as long as he lives. 
Irreducible ruptures. 

Symptoms. — A rupture in which there is no pain, 
yet that cannot be returned into the belly, caused 
by an increased bulk of the parts, or their having 
formed adhesions, or grown fast to adjoining parts. 

Treatment. — A rupture thus situated must be 
left to itself. I'he patient should be extremely 
cautious in his diet, and in avoiding costiveness, 
by' the use of clysters, or if necessary, laxative 
medicines. He should also be very careful to pro- 
tect the tumour from blows, always recollecting 
that it is in danger of strangulation. 
Shangulated ruptures. 

Symptotns. — The first mark of a rupture being 
strangulated, or of pressure being made on it, is 
costiveness. The tumour, which before was in. 
sensible, becomes painful, the pain being most se- 
vere at the spot where the sti-angulation or stric- 
ture exists, and extending from thence across the 
belly, which becomes swollen and hard. The pain 
resembles that which the patient would suppose to 
arise if a cord was drawn tightly across it. The 
pain continues to increase, and is augmented by 
pressure; sneezing, coughing, nausea and vomit- 
ing, first of the contents of the stomach, and after- 
wards of the intestines, ensue; great anxiety, rest- 
lessness, and a quick liard pulse. Hiccups, cold 
clammy sweats, weakened respiration, and a pulse 
so feeble as hardly to be perceived, announce the 
approach or presence of mortification. 

Treatment. — Lose not a moment in sending for 
the best medical aid that may be within reach. In 
the mean time, having placed the patient as direct- 
ed for reducible ruptures, apply both hands on the 
tumour with gentle, but gradually increasing pres- 
sure, or grasp the tumour gently but steadily with 
one hand, while with the fingers of the other you 
endeavour to knead or push up the parts nearest 
the ring in the groin, applying the pressure in the 
same course the parts have taken in their descent. 
If this fails, seize the tumour between the finger 
and thumb of tlie left hand, close to where it en- 
ters the belly, and carry them downwards, with a 
moderate pressure, so as to dislodge any excrement 
•which may be there, while with the right you en- 
deavour to push in the gut. 

If you cannot succeed in two or three attempts, 
place the patient in a warm bath and try it again. 
If still foiled (you have no time to waste in un- 



availing attempts) cover the tumour with pounded 
ice, snow, or any very cpld application. Should 
this fail, bleed the patient until he nearly faints, 
regardless of the small thready pulse; if fainting 
actually occurs, seize that moment to return the 
parts, as before directed. 

Should the rupture still remain irreducible, there 
are but two resources left, tiie tobacco clyster, and 
an operation. One half of the clyster should be 
injected; if it occasions sickness and a relaxation 
of the parts, endeavour to return them: if the first 
half does not produce these effects, throw up the 
remainder of it and when relaxation comes on, en- 
deavour, as before, to push up the gut. As re- 
gards the operation, no one should ever attempt it 
but a surgeon. Large doses of laudanum allay 
vomiting, and are otherwise beneficial; in all cases 
of this kind, they should never be omitted. 

Jiemarks. — Ruptures are liable to be confound- 
ed with some other diseases, as dropsy of the bag, 
enlarged spermatic vein, &c. The modes of dis- 
tinguishing them have already been pointed out, 
although it must be confessed that with respect to 
the latter, considerable difficulty exists. If the 
disease is a rupture, by placing the patient on his 
back, returning the tumour, and hol<ling the fin- 
gers firmly over the opening, and then desiring 
iiim to rise, the swelling will not appear. If, on 
the contrary, it is an enlarged spermatic vein, it 
will be found to be greater than everj. The latter 
has also a peculiar ropy feel, as if a bundle of 
cords were in the bag. 

Aneurism. 

Symptoms. — A small tumour without pain or 
redness, attended by a peculiar throbbing, it dis- 
appears on pressure, and returns the moment it is 
removed. As the tumour increases in size, the 
throbbing or beating of the artery grows less per- 
ceptible. It is generally found in the ham, thigh, 
neck, groin and arm. It is divided into true and 
false. Distinguish it by the beating or throbbing, 
which is diminished by pressing on the artery 
above the tumour, and by the latter disappearing 
on pressure, and returning when it is removed. 

Treatment. — In the early stage, apply a soft and 
elastic cushion to the tumour, and bind it tightly 
over it by a bandage. The diet should in all cases 
be extremely low, just sufficient to preserve life, 
and no more. If the patient is of a full habit, he 
should be bled and purged. This plan, steadily 
and vigorously pursued for a long time, has some- 
times effected complete cures. There is nothing, 
howeser, but an operation that can be depended on, 
wherefore, as soon as any swelling of this nature 
is perceived, no time should be lost in procuring ' 
surgical assistance. If the tumour is left to itself, 
it will finally burst, and death be the inevitable 
consequence. 

Fleshy tumours. 

Symptoms. — Small warty projections, which, 
as they increase in size, drag down the skin from 
the neighbouring parts, which forms a kiud of 
stem or foot stalk, on which the tumour hangs. 
Tiiey are hard, full of vessels, and are neither, 
painful nor inflamed. 

Treatment. — ^Vhen very small, they may be fre ■ 
quently touched with caustic, wh-ich will destroy 
them. If large, the ligature or knife must be em- 
ployed, for which purpose have recomse to a sui'- 
geon. 

Steatomatous ttimotirs. 

Symptoms.— K small, doughy swelling, which 
gradually increases, and sometimes grows to an 
enormous size. It is soft and free from pain, the 
colour of the skin remaining unaltered. 



Treatment.— These tumoui's, technically called 
steatomatous, are merely inconvenient from their 
bulk. They can only be removed by the ligature 
or knife, for which purpose apply to a surgeon. 
Encysted tiimows. 

Symptoms. — A distinct, hard, circumscribed 
swelling, gradually growing larger, until a slight 
inflammation comes on, v^en it becomes a little 
painful, soon at'ler which a fluctuation is distinctly 
to be perceived. As it progresses the vessels be- 
come enlarged; it seldom exceeds the size of an 
egg. 

Treatment. — Apply to a surgeon. 

Ganglion, 

Symptoms. — A small, moveable, elastic swell- 
ing,,with little or no pain, or alteration in the skin, 
situated under or between tendons or sinews, and 
generally near to a joint; it sometimes hinders the 
motions of the part. 

Treatment. — Apply pressure, blisters, or fric- 
tions of strong camphorated mercurial ointment 
to the tumour. If diese are of no avail, make a 
small puncture in it witii the point of a sharp lan- 
cet, let out its contents, and apply pressure to the 
part, so as to make the two sides of the sack or 
Isag grow together. 

Biles. 

Symptoms. — A hard, circumscribed, inflamed, 
and very painful tumour, of a conical shape, sel- 
dom exceeding in size a pigeon's egg. 

Treatment. — If the patient is of a full habit, 
bleed and purge him with Epsom salts. A soft 
poultice of warm bread and milk, or rye meal, 
should always be applied to the bile, and frequent- 
I3' changed. If the pain is excessive, a tea-spoon- 
ful of laudanum ma_v be mixed with each one. In 
a few days matter will be formed, when it may be 
let out with a sharp lancet. 



MEDICINE. 2119 

which should be prevented from forming, if possi- 
ble, by bathing the part with camphoretted spirits. 
The second should be dispersed by purging, and 
by leeches and blisters. If the inflammation is not 
reduced by these means, with a very shsrp pen- 
knive, make an early and free incision in the mid- 
dle of the last joint of the finger down to the bone. 
Suffer the blood to run for a few minutes, and then 
treat it as a «ommon cut. The same practice should 
be followed wifli regard to the third. 



Carbuncle. 

A deeply seated, hard, immoveable and circum- 
scribed tumour, which appears generally on the 
back, shoulders, &c. About the middle it is of a 
dark red or purple colour, being much paler or 
mottled round its edges. It is attended with an 
intolerable itching and burning pain, and at last 
becomes a kind of sloughiiog ulcer. 

Treatment. — This will depend upon the state of 
the constitution. JNlost generally there is great 
weakness, in which case the diet must be generous. 
Bark, with the elixir of vitriol and opium, to re- 
lieve the pain, are to be frequently employed. As 
a local remedy, a blister ranks very high. It 
should be placed directly on the part. After being 
cut, it may be succeeded by a basilicon plaster. A 
modern^writcr strongly recommends the solution 
of arsenic, as a local remedy in this disease. 
Pledgets of linen dipped in the liquor, are to be 
laid on the swelling, and frequently renewed. 
When matter begins to form, apply a bread and 
milk poultice, and treat it in every respect as a 
common ulcer. 



Wliitlo-w, or felon. 

Symptoms. — An inflamed tumour at the end of 
the finger. It is of three kinds. The first is situ- 
ated immediately under the skin, around the nail. 
The second, in the cellular membrane, the pain 
and swelling of which is much greater than in the 
first, and the matter much longer in forming. The 
third lies under the sheath or covering of the ten- 
dons of the fingers, and is infinitely more violent, 
painful, and dangerous, than either of the others. 

Treatment. — If of the first description, open the 
little abscess with a needle, and let out the matter, 



Symptorns. — A pain in the fundaments when 
going to stool; on examination small tumours are 
perceived to project beyond its verge. They are 
of two kinds, the blind and bleeding. They may 
also be internal and external. 

Blind piles. 

Treatment. — A diet of rye mush and milk, 
strictly adhered to for a length of time, will very 
frequently cure the disease. If they project, are 
swelled, and painful, apply twenty or thirty 
leeches to them, and cold applications. The com* 
mon gall ointment is a very soothing application. 
Balsairn copaiva, in doses sufliciently large to purge 
freely, is also highly recommended. A radical 
cure, however, is only to be sought for in the knife 
or ligature, for which apply to a surgeon. If the 
pain is very great, laudanum may be taken to ease it. 
Bleeding piles. 

Treatment. — If the bleeding is considerable, in- 
ject a solution of alum or a decoction of oak bark, 
or make pressure upon the vessels by introducing 
a sheep's gut, tied at one end into the ftmdament, 
and then filling it with any astringent fluid by a 
clyster pipe. This evacuation is sometimes salu- 
tary, and it often requires much judgment to know 
if it should be stopped or not. 



Of Abscess. 

Symptoms. — The tormation of matter under the 
skin, or in any part of the body, preceded by in- 
flammation, and marked by a dull heavy weight; 
by the pain becoming more acute and darting; by 
a peculiar throbbing; by the swelling becoming 
more elevated, and soft to the touch. If the tumour 
is not opened it bursts. 

Treat^nent. — Apply a soft and warm bread and 
milk, or linseed poultice to the part, and endea- 
vour to hasten the formation of matter. AVhen this 
is evident, let it out with a sharp lancet. If the 
patient is weak, let him have a generous diet with 
wine, porter, bark, &c. 

Psoas Abscess. 

Symptoms. — A weakness across the loins, accom- 
panied by a dull pain. After a while, the pain 
shifts from the back to the thigh and hip, becoming 
more darting and severe. The glands in the groin 
swell, and at last a soft tumour is perceived at the 
lower edge of the groin, or by the side of the fun- 
dament; the swelling increases to a large size, and 
sometimes extends itself down the thigh. 

Treatment. — In the early stage, bleed and purge 
the patient, keep him on a low diet, and apply a 
large blister over the lower part of the back. Con- 
finement in bed is absolutely necessary. When 
matter is formed, make an opening into the tu- 
mour in the following manner: Push a sharp lancet 
first through the skin, then obliquely upwards un- 
der it, and then, by depressing the point, pierce 
the swelling itself. In this way, the abscess is 
opened without the danger that attends wounds of 
large cavities. If it is small, the whole of the mat- 
ter may be allowed to flow away at once; if large, 
after drawing a pint, close the wound for a fewr 
hours, and then finish the operation. The lips of 
the wound must be kept together by sticking plas- 



2^0 



UNIVERSAL, RECEIPT BOOK. 



ten. As there are many vessels of importance in 
the gi*!;!!, care must he taken to avoid wounilino; 
them, .and if a surt!;eoii tan he had, he slioukl 
always be applied to for this purpose. 

Of fistula. 

Si/mp(ciris. — An abscess or ulcer in the neigli- 
bnnrhood ' of the fundament, preceded hv an in- 
flamed sux-Hiiig, whicii gives much pain. If there 
IS no conimuiii'vi\ti';;i> helween the sf.ucand tlie sore, 
it is called a/i Incomjjletc, if there i^, a complete 
fistula. .' ■ ' 

Treatment — As the fumour is often taken for 
piles, attention should he paid to distinguisli tliem. 
In all cases apply forly or fifty leeches to tlie part, 
keep tlie howels fierfectly loose by a diet of lye 
mush, and confine the patient to his bed. If, how- 
ever, the formation of matter cannot he hindered, 
the swelling must be opened early, and a poultice 
applied to it, when the disease occasionally lieals 
like any other sore; but nine times out of ten it 
forms a callous winding abscess, through which 
(if it is complete) excrement, kc. Dften passes. 
When it arrives at this point, nothing hut an ope- 
ration can ever be of any .service. 

'I'here is another species of fistulous opening, 
which follows the obstruction caused by stric- 
tures, &c. in tlie urinary passage. The water 
not being able to flow through the natural canal, 
makes its way out between the bag and tlie funda- 
ment, constiuiting what is called fislula in periueo. 
It may almost be called an incurable disease; at all 
events, none but a surgeon can do any thing to re- 
lieve it. 



Of Ulcers. 

By ulcers, are meant holes or sores in the skin 
nd flesh, which dischage matter. They are di- 
ided into inflamed, fungous, sJoughing, and in- 
dolent ulcers in the ne'.glibourhood of carious 
bone, and those attended, by a peculiar diseased 
action. 

Inflamed ulcers. 

Symptoms. — Tlie margin of the sore is ragged, 
the skin ending in a sharp edge round it. The 
neighbouring parts are red, swelled and painful, 
tlie bottom of the ulcer is uneven and covered with 
a white spongy substance. In place of healthy 
j^ellow matter, it discharges a thin fluid; the sur- 
face of it bleeds on the slightest touch. 

Treatment.— Cou^ne the patient to bed, bleed 
and purge him occasionally, let his diet be extreme- 
ly low, and apply a soft bread and milk or linseed 
poultice to the ulcer. When healthy yellow mat- 
ter is formed, omit the poultice, keep the sore veiy 
clean, and apply a plaster of simple ointment. 
Fungous ulcers. 

Symptoms. — The presence of large round gran- 
ulations, rising above the level of the adjoining 
parts, or what is commonly called proud flesh, 
marks this species of ulcer. 

Treatment. — Sprinkle red precipitate over the 
proud flesh, or touch it with lunar caustic, apply 
dressings of simple cerate to the sore, and pass a 
bandage tightly over the whole. Burnt alum and 
biuc vitriol may also be used to destroy the proud 
flesh. Pressure by a bandage will often succeed 
when all other means fail. 

Sloughing nicer. 

Symptoms.— The death of parts of an ulcer which 
mortify and fall off, generally attended by fever and 
pain. 

Treatment. — The diet should be generous, lau- 
danum must be taken to relieve pain, and bark, 
wine, porter, &c. to sti'engtlien the system. The 
carrot poultice is the best local applicai.mn. The 
lore may also be washed with efjual parts of a hot 



decoction of poppy beads and spirits of wine. 
When the dead portions have all fallen off, treat it 
as a simple ulcer, paying attention, however, to the 
state of the system. 

Indolent idcer. 

Symptoms. — The edges of the skin are thick, 
raised, smooth and shining. The points of new 
flesh are glossy, and tlie appearance of the vholc 
ulcer is that of an old one, in which tbeMiealing 
process is .at a stand. 

Treatment. — Touch the whole surface, sides 
and edges of the sore with caustic, blue vitriol, or 
powder it with Spanish flies or red precipitate, anil 
endeavour in this way to i-ouse the parts to action. 
If one article fails, try another. Strips of slicking 
plaster may be passed over the ulcer, about an inch 
apart, so as to draw its edges nearer together, and 
a long bandage be applied over the whole. 
Cniions ulcer. 

Symptoms. — Ulcers situated over or near cari- 
ous (or dead) bones, are thereby prevented from 
healing, they frequently penetrate deej) into the 
parts, forming a canal with harii and indolent sides, 
that discharges an ofi'ensive unhealthy matter. 

Treatment. — Keep the sore clean, repress any 
proud flesh that may arise, and iiay attention to the 
general health of the patient, taking care that his 
strength be kept up, if necessary', by wine, hark, 
porter, kc. Sec. I'he ulcer will not heal until all 
the pieces of dead bone are thrown off. This pro- 
cess sometimes lasts for years, in whicli case, pa- 
tience IS the only remedy, and nature the best pby- 
sician. 

Cases of ulceration frequently occur, proceeding 
from various causes, whose ravages seem to bid 
defiance to medical jiower. So many extraordi- 
nary and well attested instances of recovery from 
some of these, (in which deatli seemed already to 
have clutched bis emaciated victim,) by means of 
the Panacea of Mr Swaini, have been Isid before 
the public, that it seems due to the unfortunate 
victims who may be afflicted with it, to state, that 
instances of tlie above nature lia.'j actually hap- 
])ened under the eye of the editor Be its compo- 
sition wli;it it may, its effects aro evident. In aH 
cases of ulceration, too much strc vs cannot be laid 
upon the necessity of keeping ^ks parts clean. 



OF ACClDE.'iTS, 

Whenever a blow has bt. ;n inflicted, whether 
by being thrown from ahorse, out of a carriage, by 
falling trom a height, or in any other way, bleed 
the patient to the amount of twelve or fourteen 
ounces, on the spot, if practicable, if not, as soon 
after the accident as possible. This rule admits 
of but one exception, and that is, whea the vio- 
lence has been so great as nearly to extinguish all 
the powers of life, in which case it is proper to 
wait for symptoms of returning animation. To has- 
ten these, a little wine and water, or other stimu- 
lus may be given. 

If, in consequence of a broken bone or other in- 
jury, the patient is unable to walk, take a door 
from its hinges, lay him carefully on it, and have 
him carried by assistants to the nearest house. If 
no door or sofa can be procured, two boards, suf- 
ficiently long and broad, should be nailed to two 
cross pieces, the ends of which must project about 
a foot, so as to form bandies. If in the woods, or 
where no boards can be procured, a litter may be 
formed from the branches of trees. In this way a 
hand-barrow may be constructed in a few minutes, 
on which the sufferer may Le properly carried. 

If he has been wounded and bleeds, the bleedina 
must be stopped before he is removed. 



IMEDlCmE. 



221 



Having readied a house, Iny him on a bed, and 
Tindress him with car^ and .a:entleness. It" any dif- 
ficulty arises in getting off his coat or pantaloons, 
rip np the seams, rather than use force. This be- 
ing done, proceed to ascertain the nature of the in- 

' This TO^y be either simple or compound; that 
is, it may be a contusion or bruise, a wound, frac- 
ture or dislocation, or it may be two or all of them 
united in one or several parts. 

A contusion is the necessary consequence of 
every blow, and is known by the swelling and dis- 
colnratioH of the skin. 

Wounds are self-evident. * 

Fi'actures are known by the sudden and severe 
pain, by the mis-shapen appearance of the limb, 
sometimes hy its being shortened, by the patient 
being unable to move it without excruciating pain, 
l)Ut most certainly, by grasping the limb above and 
below the spot where the fi-acture is supposed to 
exist, and twisting it different ways, when a grating 
will be ft'lt, occasioned by the broken ends of the 
bone rubbing against each other. If the swelling, 
liowever, is very great, this experiment should not 
be made until it is reduce('. 

Dislocations, or bones be'ng out of joint, are 
Jfnnwfi by the (Jcformity of the joint when compar- 
ed with its fellow, by the pain and inaliility to move 
the limb, by its being longer or shorter than usual, 
aii<l by the impossibility of moving it in particular 
directions. 



Of coiiliision. 
If slight, bathe the part frequently with cold vi- 
negar and water for a few hours, and then rub it 
well with brandy, oi- spirits of any kind. Slioubl 
it be very great, or so as to have affected the whole 
body, which may be known by a general soreness, 
bleed and purge the patient, lind'confine him to a 
diet of rice water, lemonade, panada, &c. If fe- 
ver comes on, repeat tlie bleeding, purging, k.c. 
In all cases of this natiu-e, be sure the water is re- 
pilarly evacuated, for it sometimes happens that 
in consequence of the nerves of llie bladder being 
palsied by the blow, the patient feels no desire to 
jiass it, though the bladder be full. If a suppres- 
sion ensues, pass a catheter, if possible, or procure 
assistance for that purpose. 



Of sfn-ains. 
Plunge the part sprained into very cold water, 
and bold it there as long at a time as you can bear 
it — for several hours — then rub it well witli cara- 
jihorated sjiirits. If tiie accident has happened to a 
joint, as in tiie ankle, and it remains weak, i>our 
cold water ou it from tlie spout of a tea-kettle, held 
at n distance, several times in the day. The most 
serious effect!*, however, resulting from contusion, 
are wiien llie blow is apjilied to the head, produc- 
ing either concussion or compression of the brain. 

Conatssion of the brain. 

Smtptoms. — The patient is stunned, his breath- 
ing .slow, drowsiness, stupidity, the pupil of the 
eye raliier contracted, vomiting. After a time he 
recovers. 

Treatment. — Apply cloths dipped in cold vine- 
gar and water to his bead, and when the stupor is 
gone bleed him, and oi«en his bowels with Epsom 
.■^alts. He should be confined to bed, kept ou a low 
diet, in a quiet situation, and every measure taken 
to prevent an inilammation of the brain, which, if 
it comes on, must be treated by copious bleeding, 
blisters, 8cc. 



Compression of the train. 
S^'^f/toms. — Loss of sense and motion, slow, 



noisy and laoorious breathing, phlse slow and ir- 
regular, the muscles relaxed, as in a person just 
dead, the pupil of the eye enlarged and will not 
contract even by a strong light, the patient lies 
like one in an apoplectic fit, and cannot be roused. 
Treatment. — Open a vein and draw off sixteen 
or twenty ounces of blood, shave the head, and if 
possible, prnciu-e surgical assistance without delav, 
as there is nothing but an operation that can be of 
anv avail. 



Of -wounds. 
Wounds are of three kinds, viz. incised, punc- 
tured and contused; among the latter are included 
gun-shot wounds. The first step in all wounds, is 
To stop the bleeding: 
If tlie flow of blood is but trifling, draw the 
edges of the wound together with your hand, and 
hold them in that position some time, when it will 
frequently stop. If, on the contrary, it is large, 
of a bright red colour, flowing in spirts or with a 
jerk, clap your finger on the spot it springs from, 
and bold it there with a firm pressure, while you di- 
rect some one to passa handkerchief round the limb 
(supposing the wound to be in one) above the ciiJ, 
and to tie its two ends together in a bard knot. A 
cane, whip-handle, or stick of any kind, must now 
be passed under the knot, (between the upper sur- 
face of the limb and the handkerchief ) and turned 
round and round until the stick is brought down to 
the thigh, so as to make the handkerchief encircle 
it with considerable tightness. You may then take 
off your finger, if the blood still flows, tighten the 
handkerchief by a turn or two of the stick, until it 
ceases. The patient may now be removed (taking 
care to secure the stick in its position) without run* 
ning any risk of bleeding to death by the way. 

As this apparatus cannot be left on'for anv length 
of time, witliout destroying the life of the parts, 
endeavour as soon as possible to secure the bleed- 
ing vessels, anti take it oft". Having waxed toge- 
ther thi'ee or four threads of a sufficient length, 
cut the ligature they form, into as many pieces as 
you think there are vessels to be taken up, each 
piece being aliout a foot long. Wash the parts 
with warm water, and tiien with a sharp book, or 
a slender pair of pincers in your hand, fix your 
eye steadf;istly upon the wound, and direct the 
handkerchief to be relaxed Ity a turn or two of the 
stick; you will now see the mouth of the artery 
trom which the blood springs, seize it with your 
hook or i)incers, draw it a little out, while someone 
passes a ligature round it, and ties it up tight with 
a double knot. In this way take up in succession 
every bleeding vessel you can see or get hold of. 
^ It the wound is too high up in a limb to apply 
the handkerchief, don't" lose your presence of 
mind, the bleeding can still be commanded. If it 
is the tliigh, press firmly in the groin, if in the 
arm, with tlie hand end or ring of a common door 
^key, make pressure above the collar bone, anil about 
Its middle against the first rib which lies under it. 
The pressure is to be continued until assistance i3 
procured, and the vessel tieti up, t 

If the wound is on tlie head, press your finger 
firmly ou it, until a compress can be brought, 
which must be bound firmly over the artery by a 
bandage. If the wound is in the face, or so situat- 
ed that pressure cannot beeft'ectually made, or you 
cannot get hold of the vessel, and the blooa flows 
last, place a piece of ice directly over the wound, 
and let it remain there till the blood coagulates, 
when it may be removed, and a compress and ban- 
dage be applied. 

Incised •wnnnds. 

By an incised wound is meant a clean cut. Ilavj 
ing stopped the bleeding, wash away all dirt, Sic 

T2 



222 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



that may be in it with a sponge and warm water, 
then draw the sides of the wound togetlier, and 
keep them in that position by narrow strips of 
sticking plaster, placed on at regular distances, or 
from one to two inches apart. ^ soft compress of 
old linen or lint may be laid over the wliole. 

Should much inflammation follow, remove tiie 
strips, bled and purge the patient (who should live 
very low, and be kept perfectly quiet) according 
to the exigency of the case. If it is plain tliat 
matter must form before the wound will heal, ap- 
ply a soft poultice until that event takes place, 
•when dressings of some simple ointment may be 
substituted for it. 

Although narrow strips of linen, spread with 
sticking plaster, form the best means of keeping 
the sides of a wound together, when they can be 
applied, yet in the ear, nose, tongue, lips, and 
eye-lids, it is necessaiy to use stitches, which are 
made in the following manner; Having armed a 
common needle with a double waxed tln-ead, pass 
the point of it through the skin, at a little distance 
from the edge of the cut, and bring it out of the 
opposite one, at the same distance. If more than 
one stitch is required, cut off the needle, thread it 
again, and proceed as before, until a sufficient 
liumber are taken, leaving the threads loose until 
all the stitches are passed, when the respective 
ends of each thread must be tied in a hard double 
knot, drawn in such a way that it bears a little on 
the side of the cut. When the edges of tlie wound 
are partly united by inflammation, cut tlie knots 
carefully, and withdraw the threads. 

From what has been said, it must be evident 
that in all wounds, after arresting the flow of blood, 
and cleansing the parts, if necessaiy, the great in- 
dication is to bring their sides into contact through- 
out their whole depth, in order that they may grow 
together as quickly as possible, and without the 
intervention of matter. To obtain tliis very de- 
sirable result, in addition to the means already 
mentioned, there are two things to be attended to, 
the position of the patient and tlie application of 
tlie bandage. The position of tlie patient should 
be such as will relax tlie skin and muscles of the 
part wounded, thereby diminisliing their tendency 
to separate. 

A common bandage of a proper width, passed 
over the compresses modei-ately tight, not oidy 
serves to keep them in their place, but also tends 
by its pressure, to forward the great object already 
mentioned. If, however, the wound is so exten- 
sive and painful that the limb or body of the pa- 
tient cannot be raised for the purpose of applying 
or removing it, the best waj' is to spread the two 
ends of one or two strips of linen or leatlier with 
sticking plaster, which may be applied in ])lace of 
the bandage, as follows: attach one end of a strip 
to the sound skin, at a short distance from the 
edge of the compress, over which it is to be drawn 
■with moderate firmness, and secured in a similar 
, manner on its opposite side. A second or third 
may, if necessary, be added in the same way. 

In all wounds, if violent inflammation come on, 
reduce it by bleeding, pui-ging, !kc. but if there is 
reason to fear locked-jaw, give wine, porter, bran- 
dy, opium, and a generous diet. 

Punctured -wounds. 
These are caused by sharp pointed instruments, 
as needles, awls, nails, &c. Having stopped the 
bleeding, withdraw any foreign body, as part of a 
needle, splinters, bit of glass, 8cc. that may be in 
it, provided it can be done easily; and if enlarging 
the wound a little will enable you to succeed in 
this, do so. Though it is not always necessary to 
enlarge wounds of this nature, yet in hot weather 
it is a mark of precaution, which sliould never be 



omitted. As soon as this is done, pour a little tur- 
pentine into the wound, or touch it with caustic, 
and then cover it with a poultice, moistened with 
laudanum. This practice may prevent locked- 
jaw, which is but too frequent a consequencje of 
wounds of tliis description. When matter forms, 
cover the part willi mild dressings, as a common 
sore. Laudanum may be given in large doses, to 
relieve pain, and should tlie inflammation be ex- 
cessive, bleed and purge. In hot wc.ither, however, 
bleeding should be employed in gi-eat moderation. 
Contused mounds. 
Wounds of this nature are caused by round or 
blunt bodies, as musket balls, clubs, stones, &c. 
They are in general attended but by little bleed- 
ing; if, however, there should be any, it must be 
stopped. If it arises from a ball which can be easily 
fouhd and withdrawn, it is proper to do so, as well 
as tiny piece of tlie clothing, Ixc. that may be in it; 
or if the ball can be distinctly felt directly under 
the skin, make an incision across it, and take it 
out, but never allow of any poking in the wound 
to search for such things; the best extractor of 
them, as well as the first and best application in 
contused wounds, proceed from what they may, 
being a soft bread and milk poultice. 

Should the inflammation be great, bleed and 
purge. Pain may be relieved by laudaimm, and 
if the paits assume a dark look, threatening a mor- 
tification, cover them with a blister. 

If the wound is much toin, wash the parts veiy 
nicely widi warm water, and then (having secured 
every bleeding vessel) lay them all down in as na- 
tural a position as you can, drawing their edges 
gently togetlier, or as much so as possible, by sti'ips 
of sticking plaster, or stitches, if necessary. A 
soft poultice is to be applied over the whole. 
Poiso7ied -wounds from bites of mad dogs, rattle- 
snakes, &c. 
The instant a person is bitten either by a mad 
dog, rattle-snake, or any rabid animal or reptile, 
he should apply a ligature by means of the slick, 
above the wound, as tightly as he can well bear it, 
and williout hesitation or delay, cut out the parts 
bitten, taking along with them a portion of the sur- 
rounding sound flesh. The wound should then be 
freely touched with caustic, or have turpentine 
poured into it. A decoction of Spanish flies in 
turpentine, may also be applied to the skin sur- 
rounding the wound. By these means inflamma- 
tion will be excited, and suppuration follow, which 
may prevent the usual dreadful consequences of 
such accidents. As soon as the parts are cut out, 
take off the ligature. 

Should the patient be too timid to allow the use 
of the knife, burn the wound very freely with caus- 
tic, and place in it a tuft of tow or cotton, well 
moistened with the above decoction. The discharge 
of matter that follows should be kept up for some 
time. The only reasonable chance for safety, is 
found in the above plan, all tlie vegetable and mine- 
ral productions that have been hitherto recom- 
mended as internal remedies, being of very doubt- 
ful, if of any efficacy. 

The use of the chlorurets, however, in treating 
wounds from rabid animals, is now becoming gene- 
ral in France and Germany, and many satisfactory 
cases are recorded. M. Schoenberg, a German 
surgeon, states, that of three persons who were 
bitten by a dog, two used the chloruret of lime, 
and recovered from their wounds, whilst the tliird, 
who refused to submit to the treatment, died rav- 
ing mad. This gentleman applies to the wounds, 
twice a day, a piece of lint dipped in a solution ot 
the chloruret, and orders his patients to take, three 
times a day, from 2 drachms to 1 ounce of the 
chtoniret iu water. 



MEDICINE. 



m 



Stings of bees and -wasps, bites of rmisqxuttoes, &c. 
Nothing relieves the pain arising from the sting 
of a hornet, bee, or wasp, so soon as plunging the 
part in extremely cold water, and holding it there 
for some time. A cold lead-water poultice is also 
a very soothing application. If a number of these 
insects have attacked you at once, and the parts 
stung are much swollen, lose some blood, and'take 
a dose of salts. 

Musquitto-bites may be treated in the same man- 
ner, although 1 have found a solution of common 
salt and water, made very strong, speedy and ef- 
fectual in relieving the pain. Camphorated spi- 
rits, vinegar, &c. may also be used for the same 
purpose. A solution of Prussian bhie in soft water, 
with which the parts are to be kept constantly 
moist, is a highly celebrated remedy for the stings 
of bees, wasps, kc. &c. 

Womuls of tlie ear, nose, &c. 
Wash the parts clean, and draw the edges of the 
wound together by as nianj' stitches as are neces- 
sary. If tiie part is even completely separated, 
and has been trodden under feet, by washing it in 
warm water, and placing it accurately in the pro- 
per place, by the same means, it may still ad- 
here. 

Woiiinh of the scalp. 
In all wounds of the scalp it is necessary tO shave 
off the hair. When this is done, wasii the parts 
well, and draw the edges of the wound together 
with sticking plaster. If it has been violently torn 
up in sevei'al pieces, wash and lay them all down 
on the skull again, drawing their edges as nearly 
together as possible by sticking plaster, or, if ne- 
cessary, by stitches. Cover the wliole with a soft 
compress, smeared with some simple ointment. 
Wounds of the throat. 
Seize and tie up every bleeding vessel yon can 
get hold of. If the wind-pipe is cut only partly 
through, secure it wil!i sticking plaster. If it is 
completely divided, bring its edges logetlier by 
stitches, taking care to pass the needle' through 
the loose membrane tiiat covers the wind-pipe, 
and not through the wind-|)ipe itself. I'he iiead 
should be bent on tlie breast, and secured by bols- 
ters and bandages in that position, to favour llie ap- 
proximation of the edges of the wound. 
Wounds of the chest. 
If it is a simple incised wound, draw the edges 
of it together by sticking plaster, cover it with a 
compress of linen, and pass a bajidage round the 
chest. The patient is to be confined to his bed, 
kept on a very low diet, and to be bled and purged, 
in order to prevent inflammation. If the latter 
comes on, reduce it by copious and frequent 
bleedings. 

Should it be occasioned by a bullet, extract it, 
and any pieces of cloth, &c. tliat may be, lodged in 
it, if possible, and cover the wound with a piece of 
linen smeared with some simple ointment, taking 
care that it is not drawn into the chest. If a portion 
of the lung protrudes, return it without any delay, 
but as gently as possible. 
» Wozinds of the belly. 

Close the wound by strips of sticking plaster, 
and stitches passed through the skin, about half 
an incii from its edges, and cover the whole with a 
soft compi-ess, secured by a bandage. Any in- 
flammation that may arise is to be reduced by 
bleeding, purging, and a blister over the whole 
belly. 

Should any part of the bowels come out at the 
■wound, if clean and uninjured, return it as quickly 
as possible; if covered with dirt, clots of blood, 
&c. wash it carefully in warm water previous to so 
doing. ~ If the gut is wounded, and only cut partly 
through, draw the iwo edges of it together by » 



stitch, and return it; if completely divided, con- 
nect the edges by four stitches at equal distances, 
and I'eplace it in the belly, always leaving the 
end of the ligature project from tlie external 
wound, which must be closed by sticking plaster. 
In five or six days, if the threads are loose, with- 
draw them gently and carefully. 
Wounds of joints. 

Bring the edges of the wound together by stick- 
ing plaster, without any delay, keep the part per- 
fectly at rest, bleed, purge, and live very low, to 
prevent inflammation. Should it come on, it must 
be met at its first approach by bleeding to as great 
an extent as the condition of the patient will war- 
rant, and by a blister covering the whole joint. If 
a permanent stiffening of the joint seemslikely to 
ensue, keep tlie limb in that position which will 
prove most useful, that is, the leg should be ex- 
tended, and the arm bent at the elbow. "Wounds 
of joints are always higlily dangerous, and fre- 
quently terminate in death. 

Wounds of tendons. 

Tendons, or sinews, are frequently wounded and 
ruptured. They are to be treated precisely like 
any other wound, by keeping their divided jjarts 
together. The tendon which conqects the great 
muscle forming tlie calf of the leg, with the heel, 
called the tendon of Achilles, is freciuently cut willi 
tlie adze, and ruptured in jumping from heights. 
This accident is to be remedied by drawing up the 
heel, extending the foot, aiid placing a splint on the 
fore part of the leg, extending from the knee to 
beyond the toes, which being secured in that posi- 
tion by a bandage, keep tlie foot in the position 
just mentioned. The hollows under the splint 
must be filled up with tow or cotton. If the skin 
falls into the space between the ends of the tendon, 
apply a piece of sticking plaster, so as to draw it 
out of the way. It takes five or six weeks to unite, 
but no weight should be laid on the limb for seve- 
ral months. 



Offracttires. 

The signs by which fractures may be known, 
having been already pointeil out with sufixient 
minuteness, it will be unnecessarj" to dwell there- 
on; it will be well, however, to recollect this gene- 
ral rule: In cases, where, from the accompanying 
circumstances and symptoms, a strong suspicion 
exists that the bone is fractured, it is proper to act 
as though it were positively ascertained to be so. 
Fractures of the bone of the nose. 

The bones of the nose from their exposed situa- 
tion, are frequentlj' forced in. Any smooth arti- 
cle that will pass into the nostril should be imme- 
diately introduced with one hand, to raise the de- 
pressed portions to the proper level, while the 
other is employed in moulding them into the re- 
quired shape. If violent inflammation follows, 
bleed, purge, and live on a low diet. 
Fracture of the lower jaiv. 

This accident is easily discovered by looking in- 
to the mouth, and is to be remedied by keeping 
the lower jaw firmly pressed against the upper one, 
by means of a bandage passed under the cliin and 
over the head. If it is broken near the angle, or 
that part nearest the ear, place a cushion or roll of 
linen in the hollow behind it, over which the ban- 
dage must pass, so as to make it push that part of 
the bone forward. The parts are to be confined iu 
this way for twenty days, during which time, all 
the nourishment that is taken, should be suclfed 
between the teeth. If in consequence of the blow, 
a tooth is loosened, do not meddle with it, for if 
let alone, it will grow fast again. 

Fractures of the collar bone. 

This accident is a very common occurrence, and 



224 



UNmiRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



is'known a< once by passingUie finger along it, and 
hy the swelling, &c. To reduce it, sent llie'pa- 
tient in a chair without any shirt, and plucc a pret- 
ty stout compress of linen, made in the shape of a 
wedge, under his arm, the thick end of which 
should press against the arm-pit. His arm, bent 
to a right angle at the elbow, is now lo be brought 
down to ills side, and secured in that position by a 
long bandage, which passes over the arm of the af- 
fected side and round the body. Tlie fore-arm is 
to be supimrted across tlie breast by a sling. ■ It 
takes from four to five weeks to re-unite. 
Fractures of the arm. 

Seat the patient on a cliair, or llie side of a bed, 
let one assistant hold the sound arm, while another 
grasps the wrist of the broken one and steadily ex- 
tends it in an opposite direction, beniiing the fore- 
arm a little, to serve as a lever. You can now 
place the iiones in their proper situation. Two 
splints of shingle or stout paste board, long enough 
to reach fi'om below the shoulder to near the el- 
bow, must then be well covered with tow or cot- 
ton, and laid along each side of the arm, and kept 
in that jjosilion by a bandage. I'lie fore-arm is to 
be supported in a sling. Two smaller splints may 
for better security be laid between the first ones, 
that is one on top, and tlie oilier underneath the 
arm, to be serured by the bandage in the same way 
as the others. 

Frnclnres of the hones of llie fure-arm. 

These are to be rcchiced precisely in the same 
way, excepting the mode of keeping the upper i)nr- 
tiou of it steady, which is done.b}' gras[>ing the 
r.rm above the elbow. ■\\'hen llie splints and Ijaii- 
dage are applied, support it in a sling. 

Fractures nf the wrist. t 

Tills accident is of rare occurrence. MHien it 
does haiiptn the injury is generally so great as to 
require amputation. If you think the iiand can be 
saved, lay it on a splint well covered with to\i'; 
this extends beyond the fingers; place another 
splint opposite to it, lined with tlie same sof*. ma- 
terial, and secure them hy a bandage. The hand 
is to lie carried in a sling. 

The bones of the hand are sometimes broken. 
"When this is the case, fill the palm with soft com- 
presses or tow, and tlien lay a splint on it, long 
enough to extend from the elbow to b'-yoiid the 
ends of the fingers, to be secured by a bandage, as 
usual. 

^V ben a finger is broken, extend the end of it 
until it becomes straight, place the fractured jior- 
tion in its place, and then apply two small paste- 
board splints, one below and llie other above, to 
be secured by a narrow bandage. The top splint 
should extend from the end of the finger over tlie 
hack of t!ie hand. It may sometimes be proper to 
have two additional splints for the sides of the 
finger. 

Fractures of the ribs. 

When, after a fall or blow, the patient complains 
of a pricking in bis side, we may suspect a rib is 
broken. It is ascertained by placing the tips of two 
or three fingers on tlie spot where the pain is, and 
desiring the patient to cough, when the grating 
sensation will be felt. All that is necessary, is to 
pass a broad bandage round the chest, so tight as 
to prevent tlie raptionof the ribs in breathing, and 
to observe a low diet. 

Fractures of the thigh. 

Tills bone is frequently broken, and hitherto has 
Dcen considered the most difficult of all fractures 
to manage. To the ingenuity, however,- of Dr 
Hartsliorne, of this city, the world is indebted for 
an apparatus which does away the greatest impe- 
flimeiits that have lieen found to exist in treating 
it, so as to leave a straight limb, m ithout lameness 



or deformity; nor is it tlie least of its merits, tlrat 
any man of common sense can apply it nearly as 
well as a surgeon. 

It consists of two splints made of half or three 
quarter inch well seasoned stuff, from eight to ten 
inches wide, one of which should reach from a little 
aliove tlic hip, to fifteen or sixteen inches beyontl 
the foot, while the other extends the same length 
from the groin. The upper end of the inner sjilint 
is hollowed out and well padded or stufied. Their 
lovi er ends are held together by a cross piece, hav- 
ing two tenons, which enter two vertical mortices, 
one in each splint, and secured there by pins. In 
the centre of this cross piece (which sliould be very 
solid) is a female screw. Immediately above the 
vertical mortices, are two horizontal ones of con- 
siderable length, in which slide the tenons of a 
second cross piece, to tlie upper side of which is 
fastened a foot block, sha[ied like the sole of a shoe, 
while in the other is a round hole for the recep- 
tion of the head of the male screw, which passes 
through the female one just noticed. On the tc;> 
of this cross piece, to wliich the foot block is at- 
tached, are two pins, which fall into grooves at the 
bead of the screw, thereby firmly connecting them. 
The foot block as before observeil, is shaped like 
the sole of a shoe. Near the toe is a slit, tbrongli 
which passes a slraj) and buckle. Near the heel 
are a couple of straps, with two rings, arranged 
precisely like those of a skate, of which, in'fact, 
the whole foot block is an exact resemblance. A 
long male screw, of wood or other material, com- 
pletes the apparatus. 

To apply it, put a slipper on the foot of the bro- 
ken limb, and lay tlie ajiparatus over the leg. By 
turning the screw, tlie foot block will be forced up 
to the foot ill the slipper, which is to be firmly 
strajqied to it, as boys fasten their skates. By turn- 
ing the screw the contrary way, the padded extre- 
mity of the inner splint presses against the groin, 
and the foot is gradually drawn down, until the 
broken limb beccniies of its natural length and ap- 
])eaiaiice, when any projection or little inequality 
that may remain, can be felt and reduced by a gen- 
tle pressure of the hand. 

'I'he great advantages of this apparatus, I again 
repeat, are the ease with which it is applied, 
and the certainty with which it acts. The foot 
once secured to the block, in a way that every 
school-boy understands, nothing more is required 
than to turn the screw until the broken limb is 
found to be of the same length as the sound one. 
It is right to observe that tliis should not be effect- 
ed at once, it being better to turn the screw a lit- 
tle every day, until the limb is sufficiently ex- 
tended. 

As this apparatus may not always be at hand, it 
is jiroper to mention the next best plan of treating 
the accident. It is found in the splints of Desault, 
improved by Dr Physic, consisting of four pieces. 
The first has a crutch head, and extends from the 
ariii-])it to six or eight inches beyond the foot. A 
little below the crutch are two holes, an'd near the 
lower end on the inside, is a block, below which 
there is also a hole. The second reaches from the 
groin, the same length with the first, being about 
three inches wide above and two below. Two 
pieces of stout paste board, as many handkerchiefs 
or bands of muslin, with some tow, and a few 
pi(*ces of tape, form the catalogue of the apparatus. 

It is ap])lied as follows. Four or five pieces of 
tape are lo be laid across the bed, at equal distances 
from each other. Over the upper two, is placed 
one of the short pasteboard splints, well covered 
with tow. The patient is now to be carefully and 
gently placed on his back, so that his thigh may 
rest oil the splint. Oue of the luiudkcrcUiefs, or a 



MEDICIXE. 



225 



strong soft band, is to be passed between the testi- 
cle and thigh of the affected side, and its ends held 
by an assistant standins^ near tlie head of the bed. 
'iMie second handkerchief is to be passed round the 
anlcle, crossed on the instep and tied under the 
sole of the foot. By steadily pulling; tlicse two 
liandkerchiels, the limb is to be extended, while, 
vith the hand, the broken bones are replaced in 
their natural position. The loni» splint is now to 
be placed by the side of the patient, the crutch 
in tiie arm-pit, (which is defended with tow,) 
while the short one is laid alotis; the inside of the 
ibigli and leg;. The ends of the first handkerchief, 
being; passed through the upper holes, are to be 
drawn tight and secured by a knot, while the ends 
of the second one pass over the block before men- 
tioned, to be fastened in like manner, at the lower 
one. All that remains is the short pasteboard 
splint, which being well covered witii tow, is to be 
laid on the top of the tbigl\. The tapes being tied 
so as to keep the four splints together, completes 
the operation. 

Tow is to be every where interposed between 
the splints and the limb, and a large handful of it 
placed in the groin, to prevent irritation from the 
dipper or counter extending band. It is necessary 
to be careful, while tying the two handkerchiefs, 
that thej' are not relaxed, sodlial if the operation is 
properly performed, the two linibsi will be nearly 
of an equal length. 

The superior advantages of Hartshorne's appa- 
ratus over this, as well as all others, must be evi- 
dent to every one acquainted with the difficulty of 
keeping up that constant extension which is so ab- 
solutely necessary to avoid deformity and lame- 
ness, and which is so com()letely effected by the 
screw. Next to that, however, stands the one just 
described, which can be made by any carpenter in 
a few minutes, and which, if carefully applied, will 
be found to answer extremely well. 

Fractured thighs and legs generally re-unite in 
six or eight weeks; in old men, however, they re- 
quire three or four months. 

In cases of fracture of the thigh or leg, the pa- 
tient should always, if possible, be laid on a matrass, 
supported by boards instead of the sacking, which, 
from its elasticity and the yielding of the cords, is 
apt to derange the position of the limb. 
Fractures of the knee-pan. 

This accident is easily ascertained on inspection. 
It may be broken iti any direction, but is most 
generally so across or transversely. It is reduced 
by bringing the fragments together, and keeping 
them in that position by a long bandage passed 
carefully round the leg, from the ankle to the 
knee, then pressing the upper fragment down so as 
to meet its fellow, (the leg being extended) and 
placing a thick compress of linen above it, over 
vhich the bandage is to be continued. 

The extended limb is now to be laid on a broad 
splint, extending from tl»e buttock to the heel, 
thickly covered with tow to fill up the inequalities 
of the leg. For additional security, two strips of 
muslin may be nailed to tiie middle of the S[)lint, 
and one on each side, and passed al>out the joint, 
the one below, the other above, so as to form a 
figure of eight. In twenty or thirty days the limb 
sliould be moved a little to prevent stiffness. 

If the fracture is through its length, bring the 
parts together, place a compress on each side, and 
keep them' together with a bandage, leaving the 
limb extended and at rest Any inflammation in 
this, or other fracture, is to be combated by bleed- 
ing, low diet, &c. fete. 

Fractures of the leg. 

From the thinness of the parts covering the 
{iriacipal boue of the leg, it is easy to ascertain if 
2 D 



it is broken obliquely. If, however, the fracture 
be directly across, no displacement will occur, but 
the pain, swelling, and the grating sensation, will 
sufficiently decide tiie nature of the accident. 

If the fracture is oblique, let two assistants ex- 
tend the limb, while the broken parts are placed 
by the hand in tiieir natural position. Two sjdints, 
that reach from a little above the knee to nine or 
ten indies below the foot, having near the upper 
end of each four holes, and a vertical mortice near 
the lower end, into which is fitted a cross jiiece, 
are now to be applied as follows. I^y two pieces 
of tape about a foot long, on each side of the leg, 
just below the knee joint, and secure them there 
by several turns of a bandage; pass a silk handker- 
chief round the ankle, cross it on the instep, and 
tie it under the sole of the foot. The two splints 
are now placed one on each side of the leg, the 
four ends of the pieces of tape passed through the 
four holes and firmlj tied, and the cross-piece 
placed in the mortice. By tying the ends of the 
handkerchief to this cross piece the business is 
finished. 

If the fracture is across, and no displacement 
exists, apply two sjilints of stout pasteboard, 
reaching from the heel to the knee, and well co- 
vered with tow, one on each side of the leg, se- 
curing them by a bandage passing round the limb, 
and outside the splints. 

In cases of oblique fractures of the leg close to 
the knee, Hartshorne's appanUus for fracturetl 
thighs should be applied, as already directed. 
Fractures of the bones of the foot. 

The bone of the heel is sometimes, though 
rarely, broken. It is known by a ctack at the mo- 
ment of the accident, a difficulty in standing, by 
the swelling, and by the grating noise on moving 
the heel. To reduce it, take a long bandage, lay 
the end of it on the top of the fOot, carry it over the 
toes under the sole, and then by several turns se- 
cure it in that position. 

The foot being extended as much as possible, 
carry the bandage along the back of the leg above 
the knee, where it is to be secured by several 
turns, and then brought down on the front of llie 
leg, to which it is secured by circular turns. In 
this way the broken pieces will be kept in contact, 
and in the course of a month or six weeks will 
be united. 

Fractures of the foot, toes, &o. are to bo treated 
like Uiose of the hand and fingers. 

Of dislocations. 

The signs by which a dislocation may be known, 
have been already mentioned. It is well to recol- 
lect that tiie sooner llie attempt is made to reduce 
it, the easier it will be done. The strength of on « 
man, properly applied, at the moment of the acci- 
dent, will often succeed in restoring tlie head of a 
bone to its place, which in a few days would have 
required tlie combined efforts of men and pulleys. 
If alter several trials with the best apparatus ttiat 
can be raustei-ed, you find you cannof succeed, 
make the patient drink strong hot toddy of brandy 
or otiier spirits, until he is very drunk. In tiiis 
way, owing to the relaxed state of the muscles, a 
very slight force will often be sufficient, where a 
very great one has been previously used witliout 
effect. 

If any objections are made to this proceeding, or 
if the patient wiU not consent to it, having your 
apparatus (which is presently to be mentioned) all 
ready, make him stand up, and bleed him in that 
position until he faints; the moment this happens, 
apply your extending and counter-extending forces. 
Another important rule is, to vary the direction ot 
the extending force. A slight pull in one wajr will 



226 



UNTV^ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



often effect what has been in vain attempted by 
great force in another. 

JJislocation of the lower jaw. 

This accident, which is occasioned by blows, or 

yawning, is known by an inability to shut the 

mouth, and the projection of the chin. To reduce 

jt, seat the patient in a chair with his head sup- 

{)orted by the breast of an assistant, who stands 
)ehind him. Your thumbs being covered with 
leather, are then to be pushed between tKe jaws, as 
far back as possible, while with the fingers, outside, 
you gi'asp the bone, which is to De pressed down- 
wards, at the same time that the chin is raised. 
If this is properly done, the bone will be found 
moving, when the chin is to be pushed back- 
wards, and the thumbs slipped between the jaws 
and the cheeks. If this is not done, they will be 
bitten by the sudden snap of the teeth as they come 
together. The jaws should be kept closed by a 
bandage for a few days, and the patient live upon 
soup. 

Dislocation of the collar bone. 

This bone is rarely dislocated. Should it occur, 
apply the bandages, Sic. directed for a fracture of 
the same part. 

Dislocation of the shoulder. 

Dislocations of the shoulder are the most com- 
mon of all accidents of the kind. It is very easi- 
ly known by the deformity of the joint, and the 
head of the bone being found in some unnatural 
position. To reduce it, seat tlie patient in a chair, 
place one hand on the prominent part of the shoul- 
der blade, just above the spot wliere the head of 
the bone should be, while with the other you grasp 
the arm above the elbow and pull it outwards. 

Should this not succeed, lay the patient on the 
ground, place your heel in his arm-pit, and steadi- 
ly and forcibly extend the arm, by grasping it at 
the wrist. The same thing may be tried in various 
positions, as placing yourself on the ground willi 
him, laying him on a low bed, while you are stand- 
ing near the foot of it, &c. 

If this fails, pass a strong band over the shoul- 
der, carry it across tiie breast, give tiie ends to as- 
sistants, or fasten them to a stuple in tlie wall; the 
middle of a strong band or folded towel is now to 
be laid on the arm above the elbow, and secured 
thei-e by numerous turns of a bandage. The two 
ends of the towel being then given to assistants, or 
connected with a pulley, a steady, continued, and 
forcible extension is to be made, while with your 
hands you endeavour to push the head of the bone 
into its place. 

Dislocation of the elbow. 

If the patient has fallen on his hands, or holds 
his arm bent at the elbow, and every endeavour to 
straighten it gives him pain, it is dislocated back- 
wards. Seat him in a chair, let one person grasp 
the arm near the shoulder, and another the wrist, 
and forcibly extend it, while you interlock the fin- 
gers of both hands just above the elbow, and pull 
it backwards, i-eraembering that under those cir- 
cumstances, whatever degree of force is required, 
should be appliett in this direction. The elbow is 
sometimes dislocated sideways or laterally. To 
reduce it, make extension by pulling at the wrist, 
while some one secures tbe arm above, then push 
tlie bone into its place, either inwards or outwards, 
as may be required. After the reduction of a dis- 
located elbow, keep the joint at perfect rest for 
five or six days, and then move it gently. If in- 
flammation comes on, bleed freely, purge, &e. Ste. 
Dislocation of the wrist, fingers, &c. 

Dislocations of the wrist, fingers, and thumb, 
are readily perceived on examination; they are all 
to be reduced by forcibly extending tlie lower ex- 
tremity of the psrt, and pushing the boaes into 



their place. If necessary, small bands may be se- 
cured to the fingers by a narrow bandage, to facili- 
tate the extension. These accidents should be at- 
tended to without delay, for if neglected for a little 
time, they become irremediable. 

Dislocation of the thigh. 

Notwithstanding the hip joint is the strongest 
one in the body, it is sometimes dislocated. As a 
careful examination of the part, comparing the 
length and appearance of the limb with its fellow, 
&c. sufficiently mark the nature of the accident, 
we will proceed to state the remedy. 

Place the patient on his back, upon a table cov- 
ered with a blanket. Two sheets, folded like cra- 
vats, are then to be passed between the thigh and 
testicle of each side, and their ends (one half of 
each sheet passing obliquely over the belly to the 
opposite shoulder, while the other half passes un- 
der the back in the same direction) given to seve- 
ral assistants, or what is much better, tied veiy 
firmly to a hook, staple, post, or some immovea- 
ble body. A large, very strong napkin folded as 
before, like a cravat, is now to be lai( along the 
top of the thigh, so that its middle will be just 
above the knee, where it is to be well secured by 
many turns of a bandage. The two ends are then 
to be knotted. If you have no pulleys, a twisted 
sheet or rope may be passed througli the loop 
formed by the napkin. If you can i)rocure the for- 
mer, however, cast the loop over tbe hook of tlie 
lower block, and secure the upper one to the wall, 
directly opposite to the hooks or men that hold the 
sheets that pass between the thighs. A steadily 
increasing and forcible extension of the thigh, is 
then to be made by the men who are stationed at 
the pulleys or slieet, while you are turning and 
twisting the limb to assist in dislodging it from its 
unnatural situation. By these means, properly 
applied, the head of the bone will frequently slip 
into its socket with a loud noise. 

If, however, you are foiled, change the direction 
of the extending force, recollecting always, that it 
is not by sudden or violent jeiks that any benefit 
can be attained, but by a steady increasing and long 
continued pull. Should all your efforts prove un- 
availing (I would not advise you to lose much time 
before you resort to it) make the patient, as before 
directed, excessively drunk, and when he cannot 
stand, apply the pulleys. If this fails, or is object- 
ed to, bleed him till he faints, and then try it again. 
Dislocation of the knee-pan. 

When this little bone is dislocated, it is evident 
on the slightest glance. To reduce it, lay the pa- 
tient on his back, straighten the leg, lift it up to a 
right angle with his body, and in that position push 
the bone back to its place. The knee should be 
kept at rest for a few days. 

Dislocation of the leg: 

As these accidents cannot happen without tear- 
ing and lacerating the soft parts, but little force is 
required to place the bones in their natural situa- 
tion. If the parts are so much torn that the bone 
slips again out of place, apply Hartshorne's or Des- 
sault's apparatus as for a fractured thigh. 
Dislocation of the foot. 

The foot is seldom dislocated. Should it hap- 
pen, however, let one person secure the leg, and 
another draw the foot, while you pi>sh the bone in 
the contrary way to that in which it was forced out. 
The part is then to be covered with compresses 
dipped in lead water, and a splint applied on each 
side of the leg, that reaches below tiie foot. Ac- 
cidents of this nature are always dangerous; all 
that can be done to remedy them consists in the 
speedy reduction of the bone, keeping the parts at 
rest, and subduing the inflammatiou by bleeUipg, 
low diet, &c. &c. 



MEDICINE. 



227 



Of compound accidents. 

Having spolcen oi the treatment to be pursued 
for a bruise, wound, fracture and dislocation, as 
happening singly, it remains to state what is to be 
done when they are united. 

We will suppose that a man has been violently 
thrown from a carnage. On examination, a wound 
is found in his thigh, bleeding profusely, his ankle 
is out of joint, with a wound communicating with 
its cavity, and the leg broken. 

In tlie first place slop the bleeding from the 
■wound in the thigh, reduce the dislocation next, 
draw the edges of the wounds together with stick- 
ing plaster, and lastly, ai)ply Hartshorne's orDes- 
sault's apparatus to remedy the fracture. 

If, instead of a wound, fracture and dislocation, 
there is a concussion or compression of the brain, 
a dislocation and fracture, attend to the concussion 
first, the dislocation next, and the fracture the last. 

Of amputation. 

As accidents sometimes happen at sea, or in 
situations where it is impossible to obtain a sur- 
geon, and which require the immediate aniputa- 
lion of a limb, it is proper to say a few words on 
that subject. To perform the operation, is one 
thing, to know when it ought to be performed is 
iinotlier. Any man of common dexterity and 
firmness can cut off a leg, but to decide upon the 
necessity of doing so, requires much judgment, in- 
stances having occurred where, under the most 
seemingly desperate circumstances, the patient 
through fear or obstinacy has refused to submit to 
the knife, and yet afterwards recovered. 

Althoug-li in many cases much doubt may exist 
in determining whether it is proper to amputate or 
not, yet in others, all difficulty vanishes, as when 
a ball has carried away an arm. Suppose for a 
moment while rollingin a lieavy sea, during a gale, 
the lashings of a gun give way, by which a man 
has his knee, leg, or ankle completel)^ mashed, or 
that either of those parts are crushed by a fall from 
tlie topgallant yard, a falling tree, &c. The great 
laceration of blood vessels, nerves and tendons, the 
crushing and splintering of the bones, almost ne- 
cessarily resulting from such accidents, render im- 
mediate amputation an unavoidable and imperious 
dut}-. 

If there are none of the regular instruments at 
hand, you must provide the following, which are 
always to be had, and which answer extremely well 
— being careful to have the knives as sharp and 
smooth as possible. 

Instruments. — Tlie handkerchief and stick, a 
carving or other large knife, with a straight blade, 
a penknife, a carpenter's tenon or mitre saw, a slip 
ofleallier or linen, three inches wide and eighteen 
or twenty long, slit up the middle to the halt of its 
length, a dozen or more ligatures, each about a 
foot long, made of waxed thread, bobbin, or fine 
twine, a hook with a sharp point, a pair of slender 
pincers, several narrow strips of sticking plaster, 
dry lint, a piece of linen, large enough to cover the 
end of the stump, spread with simple ointment or 
lard, a bandage tiiree or four yards long, the width 
of your hand, sponges and warm water. 
Amputation of the arm. 

Operation. — Give the patient sixty drops of lau- 
danum, and seat him on a narrow and firm table 
or chest, of a convenient height, so that some one 
can support him, by clasping him round the body. 
If the handkerchief and stick have not been pre- 
viously applied, place it as high up on the arm as 
possible (lh« stick being very short) and so that 
the knot may pass on the inner third of it. Your 
rstruments having been placed regulai4y on a 
table or waiter, and wilhia veach of your hand, 



whde some one supports the lower end of the arm, 
and at the same time draws down the skin, take 
the large knife and make one straight cut all round 
the limb, through the skin and fat only, then wiih 
the pen knife separate as much of tlie ;kiii from 
the flesh above the cut, and all round it, as will 
form a flap to cover the face of the stump; when 
you think there is enough separated, turn it back, 
where it must be held by an assistant, while with 
the large knife you make a second straight inci- 
sion round the arm and down to the bone, as close 
as you can to the doubled edge of the flap, but tak- 
ing great care not to cut it. The bone is now to 
be passed through the slit in the piece of linen be- 
fore mentioned, and pressed by its ends against the 
upper surface of the wound by the person who 
holds the flap, while you saw through the bone as 
near to it as you can. With the hooks or pincers, 
you then seize and tie up every vessel that bleeds, 
the largest first, and smaller ones next, until they 
are all secured. When this is done, relax the slick 
a little; if an artery springs, tie it as before. Tht; 
wound is now to be gently cleansed with a sponge 
and warm water, and the slick to be relaxed. If it 
isevident that the arteries are all tied, bring the flap 
over the end of the stump, draw its edges together 
with strips of sticking plaster, leaving the ligature 
hanging out at lite angles, lay the piece of linen 
spread with ointment over the sti-aps, a pledget of 
lint over that, and secure the whole by ihe ban- 
dage, when the patient may be carried to bed, and 
the stump laid on a pillow. 

The handkerchief and stick are to be left loose- 
ly round the limb, so that if any bleeding happens 
to come on, it may be tightened in an iiistatit by 
the person who watciies by tlie palieiit, when the 
dressings must be taken oft', the flap raised, and 
the vessel be sought for and lied up, after which, 
ever}' thing is to be placed as before. 

It may be well to observe that in sawing through 
the bone, a long and free stroke should be used, to 
prevent any hitching, as an additional securiiy 
.against which, the teeth of the saw should be well 
sharpened and set wide. 

There is also another circumstance, which it is 
essential to be aware of; the ends of divided arte- 
ries cannot at times be got hold of, or being dis- 
eased their coals give way under the hook, so that 
they cannot be drawn out; sometimes also, tliey 
are found ossified or turned into bone. In all these 
cases, having armed a needle with a ligature, pass it 
tiirough the flesh round the artery, so that when 
tied, thei-e will be a portion of it included in the 
ligature along with the artery. When the liga- 
ture has been made to encircle the artery, cut off 
the needle and tie it firmly in the ordinary way. 

Tlie bandages, &c. should not be disturbed for 
five or six days, if the weather is cool; if it is very 
warm, they may be removed in three. This is tti 
be done with the greatest care, soaking them well 
witli warm water until they are quite soft, and can 
be taken away without sticking to the stump. A 
clean plaster, lint, and bandage are then to be ap- 
plied as before, to be removed every two days. At 
the expiration of fourteen or fifteen days the liga- 
tures generally come away; and in three or four 
weeks, if every thing goes on well, the wound 
heals. 

Jlmpjftation of the thigh. 

This is performed in precisely the same manner 
as that of the arm, with one exception, it being 
proper to interpose a piece of lint between the 
edges of the flap, to prevent them from uniting un- 
til the surface of the stump has adhered to it. 
Amputation of the leg. 
As there are two bones in the leg which haVe ^ 
thia muscle between, it is necessary to have an 



228 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



additional knife to those already mentioned, to di- 
vide it. It should have a long narrow blade, with 
a double cutting edge, and a sharp point; a carving 
or case knife may be ground down to answer the 
purpose, the blade being reduced to rather less 
than half an incli in width. The linen or leather 
strip should also have two slits in it instead of one. 
The patient is to be laid on his hack, on a talde co- 
vered with blankets or a matrass, with a sufficient 
tiumber of assistants to secure him. The handker- 
chief and stick being applied on the upper part of the 
thigh, one person holds the knee, and another tiie 
foot and leg as steadily as possible, while with the 
large knife the operator makes an oblique incision 
round the limb, through the skin, and beginning 
at five or six inches below the knee-pan, and car- 
rying it regularly round in such a manner that the 
cut will be lower down on the calf than in front of 
the leg. As much of the skin is then to be sepa- 
rated by the penknife as will cover the stump. 
When (his is turned back, a second cut is to be 
rnade all round the limb and down to the bones, 
when with the narrow bladed knife, just mention- 
ed, the flesh between them is to be divided. The 
niiddle piece of the leather strip is now to be pull- 
ed through between the bones, the whole being 
held back by the assistant, who supports tlie flap 
"While the bones are sawed, which should be so 
managed that the smaller one is completely cut 
through by the time the other is only half so. The 
arteries are then to be taken up, the flap brought 
down and secured by adhesive plasters, &c. as al- 
ready directed. 

Amputation of the fore-arm. 

As the fore-arm has two bones in it, the narrow 
bladed knife, and the strip of linen witli three tails, 
ure to be provided. The incision should be straight 
round the part, as in the arm, with this exception, 
complete it as directed for the preceding case. 
Amputation of fingers and toes. 

Draw the skin back, and make an incision round 
the finger, a little below the joint it is intended to 
remove, turn back a little flap to cover the stump, 
tljen cut down to the joint, bending it so that you 
can cut through the ligaments that connect the two 
bones, the under one first, then that on the side. 
The head of the bone is then to be turned out, 
vhile you cut through the remaining soft parts- 
If you sec an artery spirt, tie it up, if not, bring 
down the flap and secure it by a strip of sticking 
plaster, and a narrow bandage over the whole. 

Remarks. — To prevent the troublesome conse- 
quences of secondary bleeding, before the strips of 
plaster are applied over the edges of the flap, give 
tl»e patient, if he is faint, a little wine and water, 
and wait a few minutes to sec whether the increas- 
ed force it gives to the circulation, will occasion a 
fl^w of blood; if it does, secure the vessel it comes 
ti-om. If there is a considerable flow of blood from 
the hollow of the bone, place a small cedar plug 
in it. Should violent spasms of the stump ensue, 
have it carefully held by assistants, and give the 
patient large doses of laudanum; it may, in fact, be 
laid down as a general rule, that after every ope- 
ration of tlie kind, laudanum should he given in 
greater or less doses, as tltc patient may be ia more 
or less pain. 

Of suspended animation. 
Prom drovintng. — The common methods of roll- 
ing the body of a drowned person on a barrel, or 
holding it up by the heels, &c. are full of danger, 
and should never be permitted. If a spark of life 
should happen to remain, this violence would ex- 
tinguish it for erer. As soon, therefore, as the body 
is found, convey it ks gently as possible to the near- 
6at house, strip it of the wet clothes, dr^- it veil, 



and place it on a bed between warm blankets, on 
the right sitlc, with tlie head elevated by pillows. 
Every part is now to be well rubbed with flannels 
dipped in warm brandy, pr spirits of any kind, 
while a warming pan, hot bricks, or bottles or 
bladders filled witli warm water, are applied to the 
stomach, back, and soles of the feet. During these 
operations a certain niimber of the assistants (nQ 
more persons arfe to be allowed in the room thau 
are absolutely necessary) should try to inflate the 
lungs, by blowing through the nozzle of a commou 
bellows, or a pipe of any kind, placed in one nos» 
tril, while the otiier with the mouth are kept clos- 
ed. If a warm bath can be procured, place tho 
body in it. Clysters of warm brandy and water, 
salt and water, or peppermint water may be in- 
jected. 

All these operations, particularly rubbing the 
body, and trjing to inflate the lungs, should ba 
continued for six or eight hours, and when the pa- 
tient has come to himself, small quantities of warm 
wine, wine-whey, brandy and water, &c. may be 
given to him, from time to time. If, after he has 
recovered, a stupor or drowsiness remains, (but 
not before) bleed him very moderately. 

Should the accident occur in winter, and the bo- 
dy feel cold, as if frozen, previously to applying 
warmth, rub it well with snow, ice, or very cold 
water. Above all things remember that perseve- 
rance for many hours in the remedies pointed out, 
may give you the unspeakable pleasure of restor- 
ing a fellow creature to life. 

From cold. — Take the body into a room, the 
doors and windows of which are open, and where 
there is no fire, and rub it with snow or cold water, 
if this can be procured in plenty, the patient, with 
tlie exception of his face, which should be left out, 
may be completely covered with it to the thickness 
of two feet. After a while, friction with flannels 
and hot spirits are to be used, as in the preceding 
case, and warmth very gradually applied. The 
lungs are to be inflated, as directed in cases of 
drowning, and when the patient is able to swallow, 
warm wine, &c. may be given irf small quantities^ 

If a limb is frost-bitten, the cold applications 
should be continued longer, and warmth be more 
gradually applied than when the whole body is 
frozen. Care should be taken to handle the parts 
cs^refully, so as not to break off the ear, tip of tlie 
nose. Sec. 

From hanging. — The remedies for this accident 
arc tlie same as in drowning, with the addition of 
taking away a small quantity of blood, by cupping 
glasses, from the neck, or by opening the jugular 
vein. 

Fromfuul air. — Throw open the doors and win- 
dows, or take the patient into the open air, and 
seat him, undressed, well wi-apped in a blanket, 
in a chair, leaning a little to the right sitle, place 
his feet or whole body in a bath, and sprinkle his 
stomach with cold vinegar or water, and rub it im 
mediately with flannels dipped in oil. Clysters ol 
vinegar and water are to be injected, and wha: 
animation returns, continue the frictions, and give 
warm mint tea, iiic 



Of s^oallowing poisons. 

The first thing to be done when a person is di»« 
covered to have swallowed poison is, to ascertain 
what it is he has taken, the next, to he speedy in 
resorting to its appropriate remedies. If any one of 
these cannot be had, try some other without losa 
of time. 

Acids, 

Oil of vitriol, aqua fortis, spirits of sea salt, ox« 
alic acid. 

Sj/mptorm.'^A burning heat in the moulh|throa1f 



MEDICINE. 



229 



and stomach, stinking breath, an inclination to 
vomit, or vomiting various matters mixed with 
blood, hiccups, costiveness, or stools more or less 
bloody, pain in the belly, so great that the weight 
of a sheet cannot be borne, burning thirst, difficul- 
ty of breathing, suppression of urine, &c. 

Heinedies. — Mix an ounce of calcined magnesia 
^ 'with a pint of M'ater, and give a glassful every two 
minutes. If it is not at hand, use flaxseed tea, 
rice water, or water alone in large quantities, until 
the former can be procured. If it cannot be ob- 
tained, dissolve an ounce of soap in a pint of wa- 
ter, and take a glassful every two minutes; chalk 
or whiting may also be taken by the moulh, and 
clysters of milk be frequently injected. If the i)a- 
tient will not vomit, put him in the warm bath, 
bleed him freelj', and apply leeches and blisters 
over the parts pained. If the cramps and convulsions 
continue, give him a cup of common tea, with an 
ounce of sugar, forty drops of Hoffman's anodyne, 
and tifteen or twenty of laudanum, every quarter 
of an hour. No nourishment but sweetened rice 
water is to be taken for several days. In these 
cases never give tartar emetic, ipecacuanha, or 
tickle the throat with a feather, they only increase 
the evil. 

Alkalies. 
Caustic pot-ash, caustic soda, volatile alkali. 
Symptoma. — These substances occasion the same 
effects as acids, producing dreadful convulsions. 

Jtemedias. — Take two table-spoonsful of vinegar 

or lime juice in a glass of water at once, follow it 

Up by drinking large quantities of sugar and water. 

Pursue the same treatment as in poisons from acids. 

Jllercwy. 

Corrosive sublimate, red precipitate, Termilion. 

Symptoms. — Constriction and great pain in the 

throat, stomach and bowels, vomiting of various 

matters mixed with blood, unquenchable thirst, 

difficulty of urine, convulsions. 

ItemecUe?. — Mix the whites of a dozen or fifteen 
eggs with two pints of cold water, and give a glass- 
ful every two minutes, with as much'milk as can 
be swallowed, and large doses of ipecacuanha. If 
after the egg mixture is all taken, the vomiting 
does not stop, repeat the dose, with the addition 
of more water. Leeches, the warm bath, blisters, 
&c. are to be used to recluce the pain and inflam- 
mation, as before directed. 

Arsenic. 
Symptoms. — These are the same as produced by 
the mercurial poisons. 

Remedies. — Give large quantities of cold sugar 
and water, until a plentiful vomiting is induced, 
to assist which, ipecacuanha may be taken in con- 
siderable doses at the same time; barley, rice wa- 
ter, flaxseed tea, milk, &c. should afterwards be 
employed. Oil is never to be used in this case un- 
til the symptoms have considerably abated, or the 
poison has been ejected. 

Copper. 
The symptoms occasioned by swallowing verdi- 
gris, are nearly the same as those of the mercurial 
poisons. The great remedy is large quantities of 
sweetened water. In addition to this, use all the 
means recommended for corrosive sublimate, &c. 
Antimony. 
Antimonial wine, tartar emetic, butter of anti- 
mony, &c. 

Symptoms. — Excessive vomiting, pain and cramp 
iu the stomach, convulsions, Sec. 

Remedies. — Encourage the vomiting by sugar 
and water, and if after awhile it does not stop, give 
a grain of opium in a glass pf the sweetened wa- 
ter, every fifteen minutes. To relieve the pain, 
epply leeches to the stomach, throat, or pai-ts af- 
fected. 



Salts of tin. 
Give as much milk as can be got down, and if it 
is not at hand, use large quantities of cold water 
to induce vomiting. If the symptoms do not abate, 
pursue the plan directed for acids. 

Salts of bismuth, gold and zinc. 
Pursue the plan recommended for arsenic. 

Lunar caustic. 
Dissolve two table-spoonsful of common table 
salt in two pints of water; a kw glasses of this will 
induce vomiting. If not relieved, drink flaxseed 
tea, apply leeches, &c. as for acids. 
Salt-petre. 
Pursue the plan recommended for arsenic, omit- 
ting the lime water. 

Sal ammoniac. 
Symptoms. — Vomiting, pain in the belly, a stiff- 
ness of the whole body, convulsions. 

Remedies. — Introduce your finger or a feather 
into the throat to induce vo(jf)iting, and give plenty 
of sweetened water. To relieve the convulsions, 
give the tea, laudanum^ &c. as for acids, or the lau- 
danum alone, and to ease the pain in the belly, ap- 
ply leeches, &c. 

Liver of sulphur. 
Symptoms. — They resemble those caused by salt- 
petre. 

Remedies. — Two table-spoonsful of vinegar, in a 
glass of water, are to be frequently taken until 
vomiting is brought on, after which, have recourse 
to leeches, blisters, &c. 

JPhofphonts. 
The symptoms and remedies are the same as by 
poison from acids. 

Spanish flies. 
Symptoms. — Great pain in the stomach, with ob 
stinate and painful erections, accompanied by a dif- 
ficulty, or suppression of urine, or if any is pass 
ed^ it is bloody, a horror of swallowing liquids, 
frightful convulsions. 

Remedies. — Make the patient swallow as much 
sweet oil as he can possibly get down. Milk and 
sugared water are also to be freely used. In addi- 
tion to the plan recommended for acids, solutions 
of gum ar.ibic, or flaxseed tea, are to be injected 
into the bladder. If no vomiting is induced, put 
him in the warm bath, continue the sweetened wa- 
ter, and rub his thighs and legs with two ounces 
of warm oil, in which a quarter of an ounce of 
camphor has been dissolved. Eight or ten grains 
of camphor may be mixed with the yolk of an tgg 
and taken internally. If there is acute pain in the 
bladder, apply leeches over it. 

Poiodered glass. 
Stuff the patient with thick rice pudding, breail, 
potatoes, or any other vegetable, then give him 
five grains pf tartar emetic to vomit him, after 
which, use milk freely, clysters and fomentations 
to the belly, with the warm bath; leeches, Stc. are 
not to be neglected. 

Lead. 
Sugar of lead, extract of saturn, white lead, 
litharge, minium. " 

Symptoms. — A sweet astringent taste in the 
mouth, constriction of the throat, pain in the sto- 
mach, bloody vomiting, &c. 

Remedies. — Dissolve a handful of Epsom or 
Glauber salts in a pint of water, and give it at 
once; when it has vomited him, use sweetened 
water. If the symptoms continue, act as directed 
for acids. 

Opium or laudanum. 
Symptoms. — Stupor, an insurmountable inclina- 
tion to sleep, delirium, convulsions, &c. 

Remedies. — Endeavour to excite vomiting by six 
grains of tartar emetic, or four grains of blue, or 
thirty of white vitriol. Thrust a feather down tlw 

U 



230 



uni\'t:rsal receipt book. 



throat for the same purpose. Never give vinegar 
or other acids, until the poison is altogether or 
nearly evacuated. After this has taken plact;, a 
■wine-glassful of lemon juice an<l water may be 
taken every five minutes, along with a cup of very 
strong coRee. The coffee, &te. are to be continued 
until the drowsiness is gone off, which, if it con- 
tinues, aixl resembles that of apoplexy, must be 
relieved by bleeding. Thei^atieut is to be forci- 
bly kept in constant motion. 

Mushrooms. 

Remedies. — Give the patient immediately three 
grains of tartar emetic, twenty-five or thirty of 
ipecacuanha, and an ounce of salts, dissolved in a 
glass of water, one tliird to be taken every fifteen 
minutes, until he vomits freely. Then purge witii 
castor oil. If there is great pain in the belly, ap- 
ply leeches, blisters, &c. 
Tobacco, hemlock, night shade, spurred rye, &c. 

Hemedies. — An emetic as directed for opium. 
If the poison has been swallowed some time, purge 
with castor oil. After vomiting and purging, if 
the patient seems drowsy, bleed him, and give 
vinegar and water. 

Poisonous fish. 

Remedies. — An emetic. If it has been eaten 
some lime, give castor oil by the mouth and clys- 
ter. After these have operated, twenty drops of 
ether may be taken on a lump of sugar; vinegar 
and water as before mentioned. 



Foreign bodies. in the throat. 
Persons are frequently in danger of sufToeation 
from fish bones, pins, &c. which stick in the 
throat. The moment an accident of this kind oc- 
curs, desire the patient to be perfectly still, open 
his mouth, and look into it. If you can see the 
obstruction, endeavour to seize it with your finger 
'ind tliumb, or a long slender pair of pincers. If it 
cannot be got up, or is not of a nature to do any< 
injury in the stomach, push it down with the han- 
dle of a spoon, or a flexible round piece of whale- 
bone, the end of which is neatly covered with a 
roll of linen, or any thing that may be at hand. If 
you can neither get it up nor down, place 6 grains 
af tartar emetic in the patient's mouth. As it dis- 
solves, it will make him excessively sick, and in 
consequence of the relaxation, the bone, or what- 
ever it may be, will descend into the stomach or 
be ejected from the mouth. 

If a pin, button, or other metallic or pointed 
body has been swallowed (or pushed into the sto- 
mach) make the patient eat plentifully of thick rice 
pudding, and encleavourto prevent him from going 
tjb stool for at least twelve hours. 



> Of burns and scalds. 

There are three kinds of remedies employed in 
accidents of this nature. Cooling applications, 
such as pounded ice, snow, vinegar, cold water, 
lead water, &c. Stimulants, as warm spirits of 
turpentine, brandy, or any ardent spirits, and 
carded or raw cotton. 

Any one of these articles that happens to be 
nearest at hand, may be fried, although the prefer- 
ence is due to the turpentine or spirits, which being 
made as hot as the patient can bear it, is to be ap- 
plied to all the burned surface (so as not to touch 
the adjoining sound skinj until some common ba- 
silicon ointment can be thinned with spirits of tur- 
pentine to the consistence of cream, in which state 
It is to be spread on a linen rag and laid over the 
part, taking care, as before, not to let it touch the 
sound skin. 

If, however, (the rule is general) this plan causes 
great pain and inflammation, it must be abandoned, 
and one of the others be resorted to, as the pounded 



ice, which can be readily applied in a bladder 
Equal parts of lime water and linseed oil, well 
mixed, forms one of the most soothing of all appli* 
cations. Should much fever prevail, it is to be re- 
duced by bleeding, purging, iic. but if on the con- 
trary the system seems to sink, wine, bark, &c. 
must be employed. 

Of mortification. 

From wh.1t has already been stated, it is evident 
that in treating wounds, &c. as well as diseases, 
one ^r-ffdt and important indication is to repress ex- 
cessive inflammation, which, if allowed to proceed 
to a certain point, sometimes produces mortifica- 
tion or the death of the parts. 

AVhenever, therefore, from the violence of the 
fever, heat, pain, redness, and swelling, you are 
fearful of its ending in tliis way, bleed, purge, &c. 
to as great an extent as the patient can bear. If, 
however, the fever and pain suddenly cease, if the 
part which before was red, swollen, and hard, be- 
comes purple and soft, abandon at once all reduc- 
ing measures, lay a blister over the whole of the 
piirts, and give wine, porter, bark, &c. freely and 
without delay. If the blisters do not put a stop to 
the disease, and the parts become dead and offen- 
sive, cover them with the charcoal or fermenting 
poultice until nature separates the dead parts from 
the living, during which process, a generous diet, 
bark. Sec. must be allowed. 

There is a particular kind of mortification which 
comes of itself, or without any apparent cause. It 
attacks the small toes of old people, and com- 
mences in a small bluish or black spot, which 
spreads to different parts of the foot. To remedy 
it, place a blister over the spot, and give two grains 
of opium night and morning, taking care to keep 
the bowels open by castor oil, and to diminish the 
quantity of opium if it occasions any unpleasant 
effects. 

In extensive mortifications of the fore-arm, it is 
necessary to amputate. This, however, should 
never be done, until by the repeated application 
of blisters to tlie sound pai-ts adjoining the morti- 
fied ones, they are disposed to sepai'ate, which may 
be easily known by inspection. 

Directions for bleeding. 
Tie up the arm, placing the bandage at least two 
inches above the projection of the elbow joint, 
and then feel for the pulse at the wrist. If it is 
stopped, the bandage is too tight, and must be re- 
laxed. Select the most prominent vein, and feel 
with the tip of your finger if an artery lies near it. 
If you feel one pulsating so close to the vein that 
j'ou are fearful of wounding it, choose another. 
Having set your lancet, (I allude, of course, to the 
spring lancet, the only one that can be used with 
safety,) bend the arm in the precise position it is to 
be kept in while the blood flows. The cutting 
edge of the lancet is now to be placed oc the vein, 
while you depress the handle or frame just as 
much as you wish the cut to be deep; by touching 
the spring on the side with your thumb, the busi- 
ness is done. To stop the bleeding, relax the ban- 
dage, press the two edges of the wound together, 
place a little compress of linen on it, and bind up 
the whole with a bandage passing romid the joint iq 
a figure of eight. 

Directions for passing the catheter. 
Take the |)enis of the patient near its head be- 
tween the finger and thumb of your left hand, 
(standing beside him) while, with your right, yon 
introduce the point of the instrument into the uri- 
nary passage, its convex side towards his kneesj 
while you push the catheter down the urethra, en« 



MEDICINE. 



231 



deavonr, at the same time, to draw up the penis on 
it. When you first introduce it, the handle will of 
course be near the belly of the patient, and as it 
descends will be thrown further from it, until it 
enters the bladder, which will be known by the 
flow of the urine. If you cannot succeed while the 
patient is on his back, make him stand up, or place 
him with his shoulders and back on the ground, 
■while his thighs and legs are held up by assistants. 
If still foiled, place him again on his back, and 
■when you have got the catheter as far down as it 
vill go, introduce the forefinger, well oiled, into 
the fundament, and endeavour to push its point 
upwards, while you still press it forward with the 
other hand. Force is never, on any account, to be 
used. Vary your position as often as you please, 
let the patient tr)' it himself, but always remember 
it is by humouring the instrument, and not by 
violence, that you can succeed. 

Directions for passing bougies. 
Take the penis between your finger and thumb, 
and pass the point of the instrument, (which should 
be well oiled) down the urethra as directed for the 
catheter; when it has entered three or four inches, 
depress the penis a little, and by humouring the 
bougie with one hand, and llie penis with the other, 
endeavour to pass it as far as may be wished. The 
patient himself will frequently succeed, when every 
oue else fails. 



MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. 

To dimiiiish inordinate injlammation. 

Mix 1 drachm of Goulard's extract of lead, or 
solution of sugar of lead in water, with 4 oz. of 
rectified spirit, and 6 oz. of distilled water. Make 
a lotion, which is to be applied to those surfaces 
where inflammation is very rapid. 

Another method. — Dissolve 2 drachms of sul- 
phate of zinc (white vitriol) in a pint of distilled 
water. To be applied as above. 

JMarsh-mallow fomeiitation. 

Boil together for a quarter of an hour, an ounce 
of dried marsh-mallow root, with ^ an oz. of cha- 
momile flowers in a pint of water; strain through a 
cloth. The fomenting flannels should be sprink- 
led with spirits, just before they are applied to the 
inflamed part. 

Fomentation of poppies. 

Bruise 4 ounces of dried poppy heads, and then 
boil them in 6 pints of water, until a quart only 
remains after straining. This fomentation is to be 
applied to inflamed parts, where there is much 
pain, but which are required to suppurate, 
Refrigerant lotion. 

Mix together equal parts of acetated water of am- 
monia and tincture of camphor; which apply to the 
inflamed joint or other part. 

Another. — Dissolve an ounce of muriate of am- 
monia in 4 ounces of common vinegar, and add 10 
ounces of water, to be applied with or without a 
cloth to inflamed surfaces. 

Another. — Mix together 2 ounces of rectified 
spirit, and 5 ounces of acetated water of ammonia. 
Sedative lotion. 

Dissolve half a drachm of sugar of lead in 4 oz. 
of distilled vinegar, and then add an ounce of com- 
mon spirits with a pint of water. Linen cloths 
dipped in this lotion are to be applied to inflamed 
joints, &c. 

Cold and sedative cataplasm. 

Take of goulard water a drachm and a half, rec- 
tified spirit 2 ounces, water a pint: These are to 
be mixed with a sufllcient quantity of the crumb of 



a new loaf, so as to form a cataplasm, to be applied 
at night to inflamed parts. 

Anot/wr. — Mix withci-umb of bread as above, 1 
drachm of goulard water (or solution of sugar of 
lead) and a pint of common water that has been 
boiled. 

Cataplasm to hasteji sxippuration. 
Make 2 parts of finely-powdered bran, and 1 
part of linseed meal, into a poultice, with boiling 
water. A little oil should be spread over the sur- 
face, just before it is applied. 

Another. — Take of cnmib of bread and linseed 
meal, equal parts. Make them into a poultice with 
boiling milk. 

Linseed cataplasm. 
Stir linseed flour into boiling water, in sufficient 
quantity to form a cataplasm of proper consistency, 
and before application, smear the surface with a 
little olive or linseed oil. If irritation, with great 
pain and tension, or hardness, should prevail, it 
will be necessary to substitute a decoction of pop- 
py heads for the common water. This poultice 
is in general use in all the hospitals. 
Embrocation for sprains. 
Shake in a phial, until they become white like 
milk, 10 draciims of olive oil, with 2 drachms of 
spirit of hartshorn (water of ammonia); then add % 
drachms of oil ot turpentine. When "properly 
mixed, they may be directly used as an embroca- 
tion for sprains and bruises. 

Where weakness remains in consequence of a 
sprain, cold water ought to be pumped on it every 
morning; and a long calico roller should be bounrf 
firmly (but not too tight) round it immediately af- 
ter. By these means, strength will soon be re- 
stored. 

Another. — Digest 15 ounces of white hard soap, 
scraped with a knife, in 4 pints of spirit of wine, 
and 1 pint of water of ammonia, or hartshorn (li 
quor ammoniae), previously mixed in a large bot- 
tle. When dissolved, add 5 oz. of camphor. 
When this last is entirely dissolved, the embroca- 
tion is fit for use. 

This elegant and powerful stimulant was se- 
lected from the Pharmacopmia of the Middlesex 
Hospital: — for private use, the above quantities of 
the ingredients are to be reduced in proportion to 
each other, according to the quantity likely to be 
used in a family. If one-third only is required, 
use 5 oz. of soap, 1 of campiior, 16 oz. of spirit of 
wine, and 4 oz. of water of ammonia. 
Application of leeches. 
In the applying of leeches to the human body, 
success is rendered more certain by previously dry- 
ing them, or allowing them to creep over a dry 
cloth. l"o attract them, the part should be moist- 
ened with cream, sugar, or blood, and if this 
should be insufficient, the leech may be cooled by 
touching it with a cloth dipped in cold water. The 
escape of leeches from the part is to be prevented 
by covering them with a wineglass or tumbler. 
Hums and scalds. 
Mr Cleghorn, a brewer in Edinburgh, has treat- 
ed burns and scalds with success, by applying, in 
the first place, vinegar, until the pain abates; se- 
condly, an emollient poultice; and thirdly, as soon 
as any secretion of matter or watery fluid appeai-s, 
by covering the sore with powdered chalk. 
Liniment for the same. 
Take of linseed or olive oil, lime water, each 
equal parts, or 3 Ounces, by measure; mix, by 
shaking them together. This liniment is extreme- 
ly useful in cases of scalds or burns, being singu- 
larly efficacious in preventing, if applied in time, 
the inflammation subsequent to these; or even la 
removing it after it has come on. 



232 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Another. — Lime water with linseed oil has often 
been used, as a liniment, in tlie proportion of an 
ounce and a half of the latter, to 3 ounces of the 
former. This is a very excellent application. 

Another. — Many medical men are partial to the 
use of lime water and common spirits immediately 
after tlie accident, in proportion of 3 ounces of the 
latter to 5 ounces of the former. Tliis mixture 
should be applied 'cold, and the parts kept con- 
stantly covered with fine linen cloth dipped in it. 

./Inother. — Raw potatoes, scraped or grated, may 
%e advantageously applied to recent burns and 
scalds, if nothing better can conveniently be had. 
But, perhaps, the best application, immediately 
after the accident, is common spirits united with a 
solution of sugar of lead, (liquor acetatis plumbi,^ 
in the proportion of 12 ounces of the latter to 4 
ounces of the former. • 

Another. — Apply oatmeal and cold water to the 
part affected immediately after the accident; keep 
it on as a poultice all night; next morning, if not 
serious, it will be quite well, neither blister nor 
■wounds appearing. 

In all cases of bm-ns and scalds, it is necessary 
to observe, that if fever should ensue, gently laxa- 
tive medicines ought to be administered. The best 
are castor oil and Epsom salts. 

If the injui-y arising from the scald or burn be 
veiy severe, suppuration should be promoted by 
fomentations and emollient cataplasms. The de- 
formity or constriction of muscles and tendons, 
■which arises from burns and scalds, is to be ob- 
viated as much as possible by bandage and posi- 
tion. Particular attention must be paid to posi- 
tion where joints are concefned, and in burns in 
the neck. In all, the limbs should be as much as 
possible in their natural situation of rest; but the 
Lead, in particular, should be kept in a proper po- 
sition. 

Extensive burns and scalds. 

In several bad cases of burns and scalds, the to- 
pical application of well carded cotton wool lias 
succeeded in effecting a cure in a few days. For 
this discovery we are indebted to chance: — The 
ciiild of a negro in the West Indies, in consequence 
of falling into boiling water, was most dreadfully 
scalded; the mother, being ignorant of any mode 
of treatment, immediately laid the child on the cot- 
ton wool she had been carding, and covered it over 
■with it. The cotton wool adhered closely to the 
injured parts, and being caked by the discharge, 
completely defended the surface from the action 
of the atmosphere. In the course of a few days 
the ■whole peeled off witli the injured skin, leaving 
a healthy surface covered with a new cuticle. The 
same treatiw«nt has been adopted in Scotland, and 
elsewhere, in several bad cases of burns and scalds, 
"with similar happy results. When the discharge 
exudes through the first layer, more cotton must 
be added to absorb it. In order that it may adhere 
to the injured part, the surface should be moisten- 
ed with oil. 

Cataplasmfor ulcers. 

Boil any quantity of fresh carrots until they are 
sufficiently soft to be beaten up into a smooth pulp, 
'rhis cataplasm is equally beneficial in the cure of 
cancerous, as well as scorbutic'ulcers. The latter 
are known by a brown colour, the discharge being 
thin and corroding, whilst the fungous excrescen- 
ces which shoot out, bleed on the slightest touch. 
The ulcer is surrounded by a livid ring, or areola, 
in which small spots are frequently observed. The 
former are known by their very irregular surface, 
from several parts of which blood exudes. They 
are attended by shooting pains, and have a fetid 
discharge. 

JliiotTier. — Boil any quantity of the bottom leaves 



of the common meadow sorrel, until they are sof- 
ficiently soft, then beat them into a smooth pulp, 
which is to be applied as a cataplasm to ulcers of 
the above mentioned nature. 

Another. — Poultices of the pulp of apples have 
been successfuly employed on the continent for 
these ulcers. They are made by mixing 2 ounces 
of the pulp of boiled apples with the same weight 
of tlie crumb of bread. 

Lotion for scorbutic ulcers. 

Mix from 1 to 2 drachms of muriatic acid (spirit 
of salt) with a pint of water. This lotion is very 
useful in cleansing and stimulating the above men- 
tioned ulcers. 

Another. — Make a lotion by dissolving half aa 
ounce of nitrate of potass (salt-petre) in half a pint 
of common vinegar; with which cleanse the ulcers 
in question. 

Lotion for cancerous ulcers. 

Mix together an ounce and a half of the tincture 
of muriate of iron, with seven ounces of distilled 
water. Apply as a lotion. 
Contagious ulcer, peculiar to soldiei's and seamen. 

This ulcer generates a poison capable of con- 
verting other healthy ulcers into its own nature- 
It generally appears on the inner side of the leg, 
near the ankle. It exhales a Yiutrid smell, whilst 
a thin acrimonious humour is discharged, which 
excoriates the neighbouring parts; and fungous ex- 
crescences frequently shoot out. The limb be- 
comes much swelled and very painful, whilst the 
sore bleeds on the slightest touch. If not checked, 
the most fatal conseijuences are to be apprehended. 

Treatment. — 'The following remedies have been 
found most efficacious, viz. the carrot and yeast 
poultice as mentioned before; a lotion of tinciure 
of myrrh, 1 ounce; with 7 ounces of decoction uf 
bark, in etpud parts; 1 scrujjle of sulphate of cop- 
per, or blue vitriol, in solution with distilled wa- 
ter, or with S ounces of lime water; camphorated 
spirit of wine; camphorated vinegar; tlie cold salt- 
water bath; and the ap|)lication of the juice of 
limes. If the sores remain irritable and painful, 
the hemlock and poppy fomentations aie to be 
used; accompanied with the internal administra- 
tion of Peruvian bark, and other tonic remedies. 
Lf leers and sore legs of poor people. 

The lotion made according to the following 
recipe, has been found very beneficial in cases ot 
foul ulcers and sore legs of poor people. It has 
also succeeded (applied warm) in curing a fistu- 
lous ulcer: Take of green vitriol, | oz. alum, | oz. 
verdigris, ^dr. crude sal ammoniac, 2 scruples. 

After reducing them to powder, put them into a 
new glazed pipkin, holding about a quart. Set it 
upon a slow fire, ami increase by degrees till thff 
ingredients boil up to the top two or three times. 
Then take it from the fire and set it to, cool. 
Bre.ak the pipkin to get the stone out. Stir them 
round all the time they are on the fire with a lath. 
The dust and the smoke should not come near the 
eyes, nose, or mouth. Put a piece of the stone, 
the size of a walnut, to a quart bottle of soft water. 
To use, shake the bottle and wet a piece, of fine 
linen four times doubled. Lay it upon a new burn 
or old ulcer. The linen should always be kept 
wet with it. [For this receipt the late emperor of 
J'rance gave 10,000 louis-d'ors, after it had beea 
approved of in his hospitals.] 

JS'lalt poultice. 

Mix as much ground malt with half a pint of 
veast as will make a cataplasm of moderate con- 
sistence. This poultice is gently stimulating, and 
very serviceable in destroying the fetid and disa- 
greeable smell which arises from foul ulcers and 
gangrenous wounds. 

Another.— A similar poultice, and for the sanw} 



MEDICINE. 



233 



pnrposc, is prepared by stirring into an infusion of 
cnalt, as much oatmeal as may be required to make 
it of a proper thickness, and afterwards adding 
about a spoonful of yeast. 

Strong beer poultice. 

Stir into half a pint of ale,or strong beer-grounds, 
as much oatmeal or linseed-meal, as will make a 
cataplasm of proper thickness. This will prove 
an excellent stimulant and antiseptic for foul ul- 
cers. It should be applied as warm as the parts 
will bear, and should be renewed every six hours. 

Teast poultice. 
, Mix well together 1 pound of linseed-meal, and 
Ik pint of ale yeast. Expose this cataplasm to a 
gentle heat, until a certain degree of fermentation 
takes place. This poultice is excellent for stimu- 
lating and cleansing foul ulcers. 

Charcoal poultice. 

To ^ a pound of the common oatmeal cataplasm, 
ftdd two ounces of .fresh burnt charcoal finely 
l)ounded and sifted. Mix the whole well togetlier, 
and apply it to foul ulcers and venereal sores: the 
fetid smell and unhealthy appearance of which it 
Epeedily destroys. 

IVeatment of ivhitlow. 

This is a small tumour'which appears under, or 
around the finger nail; it is attended with redness 
and pain, and very quickly advances to suppura- 
tion. After the abscess is evacuated of tlie white 
matter contained in it, it very soon heals of itself. 
The loss of the nail, however, is sometimes, 
through improper management, the consequenca 
of the disease. 

In ordei- to check the inflammation in the first 
instance, and thereby at once stop the disease, it 
\\\\\ be proper frequently to, apply the following 
lotion, that is, until the pain and heat are abated: 
Dissolve one ounce of sal ammoniac in two ounces 
of common vinegar; adding one of rectified spirit, 
and twelve ounces of distilled water. 

Another application. — It sometimes happens that 
the ulcer, which remains after the discharge of the 
matter, is very indolent and difficult to heal. In 
6uch a case the following application will be of 
great service: Rub ^ an ounce of camphor, in a 
mortar, with an ounce of olive oil. Now melt 
over a gentle fire, 8 oz^ of olive oil, with 4 oz. of 
yellow wax, and stir in it ^ an ounce of a solution' 
of sugar of lead (liquor plumbi acetatis); when 
this mixture is cold, pour the camphor and oil, in 
the moi'tar, into it, taking care to stir the whole 
veil until quite cold. If suppuration should en- 
sue, marked by a white prominent spot, an open- 
ing should immediately be made, that the matter 
may escape. 

Whitloiv at the extremity of the finger. 

This kind of whitlow being more deeply seated 
tJian that of the nail, is more severe, and is attend- 
ed by throbbing and acute pain. The matter, like- 
•wise, often insinuates itself beneath the nail. To 
Prevent suppuration it will be proper to keep the 
linger immersed for a long time in warm water, 
and to apply the lotion, recommended for the same 
purpose in common whitlow. If these fail in ef- 
fecting a resolution of the tumour, an early and 
■free incision should be made through the integu- 
ments, and carried to the bottom of the diseased 
part; after which the blood may be allowed to flow 
for some time: the opening is to be treated after- 
wards as a common wound, viz. by the application 
•f adhesive plaster. 

Another remedy. — ^Dr Balfom-, of Edinburgh, 
has found the application of pressure in incipient 
cases of whitlow to succeed in preventing the for- 
mation of matter, and speedily to cure the disease. 
He applies compression with the hand in a degree 
which the patient caa easily bear, with the view of 
2 E 



preventing extensive suppuration, and then a nar- 
row fillet. This operation, in severe cases, is re- 
peated three or four times in the course of two 
days, when the pain and swelling disappear, leav- 
ing a single speck of pus at the point of the thumb, 
immediately under the skin. If vent be given to 
this by the slightest touch of the lancet, the wound 
will heal up immediately. 

JVIdte s-ioelling. 

Dr Kirkland recommends a volatile plaster for 
this disease, made after the following manner: 
Melt together in an iron ladle, or earthen pipkin, 
2 oz. of soap and ^ an oz. of litharge plaster. 
When nearly cold, stir in I drachm of sal ammo- 
niac in fine powder: spread upon leather, and ap- 
ply to the joint as above. 

If the above method fails, and ulceration takes 
pl'^ee, a surgeon should be applied to without delay. 

Ointment for chaps and eruptions of the skin. 

Simmer ox marrow over the fire, and afterwards 
strain it througli a piece of muslin into gallipots. 
When cold, rub the ])art aftected. 
Iting-vorm. 

Mr T. G. Graham, of Cheltenham, recommends 
the lime water which has been used for purifying 
gas, as a very efficacious i-emedy in the above 
troublesome disease. The head is to be well 
cleansed, morning and evening, with soap and wa- 
ter, and afterwards washed with the lime water 
from the gas works. The above lime water is a 
very heterogeneous compound, so that it is impos- 
sible to say which of its ingredients is effectual. 
It contains lime, ammonia, sulphuretted hydrogen, 
volatile oil, and pi-obably several other compoouds 
of a more complex nature. 

Scald head. 

Take of sulphur, 1 oz. ; lard, 1 do.; sal ammo- 
niac, 2 drachms:' Mix for an ointment, to be rub- 
bed upon the part aftected two or three times a day. 
Ointment for scald head, ring loorm, &c. 

The following ointment for scald head, ring- 
worm, and tetters, has uniformly succeeded in 
speedily effecting a cure. 

l^ake of sub-acetate of copper fin very fine pow- 
der), half a drachm; prepared calomel, 1 drachm; 
fresh spermaceti ointment, 1 oz. Mix well to- 
gether. To be rubbed over the parts aftected every 
night and morning. This ointment is also very 
efticacious in cases of foul and languid ulcers. 
Lotion for leprosy. 

Wash the parts aft^ected every morning and»eve- 
ning with the following composition: Take of o.xy- 
muriate of mercuiy^ 4 grains; pure pyroligneous 
acid, 1 oz. ; distilled water, 7 do. Mix. 
Leprous affections of the skin. 

Dr Hufeland praises the excellent effects of the 
oil of the walnut kernel in leprous and other cuta- 
neous complaints. It is one of the safest, simplest, 
and most efficacious external remedies that can be 
employed, as it mitigates the pains, and that burn- 
ing sensation, sometimes almost insupportable, 
which accompany these obstinate diseases; it never 
seems to have any ill effect, if attention be given to 
the eruption suddenly disappearing, or diving, as 
it is said, by repulsion — a circumstance whiclvlre- 
quently happens by the application %of metallic 
ointments, and which is often attended with much 
danger to the constitution; although it cures the 
cutaneous affection in a short time, it is not fol- 
lowed by any bad consequences, provided the erup- 
tion does not originate in any obstinate intenial or 
general disease. In a child, which was almost 
covered with chronic and suppurating pimples, 
against which internal remedies, baths, and mer- 
curial ointments, had been employed, without pro- 
ducing a perfect cure, the oil of walnut kernel was 
used with complete success. It is likewise an ex> 



234 



UJnVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



eellent remedy in small cutaneous eruptions that 
are now and then observed in children. Tlie oil 
ought to be fresh, expressed without heat, and ap- 
plied to the aftected places twice or tluice a day. 
Itch ointment. 

Take of powdered white hellebore, 2 drachms; 
flowers of sulphur, 1 oz.; essence of lemon, I oz.; 
iiogs' lard, 2 r>z. Make it into an ointment. Smear 
all the joints for three nights with this, wash it off 
in the morning with soap and water, llepeat liie 
smearing three times at the interval of two days, 
and the most inveterate itch is certain to disap- 
pear. It will be well, at the same time, to take, 
right and morning, a tea-spoonful of an electuary 
of flowers of sulphur, mixed with honey or treacle. 
To remove ddlblains. 

Take an ounce of white copperas, dissolved in a 
quart of water, and occasionally apply it to the af- 
fected parts. This will ultimately remove the 
most obstinate blains. — N. B. This application 
must be used before they break, otherwise it will 
do injury. 

Another method. — Take a piece of fresh wood of 
the fir, made flat and smooth, and hold it to the 
fire till it becomes moderately warm, and all the 
turpentine begins to exude; then place the part af- 
fected upon this board, and keep it there as long 
as it can be well borne; after which, let the part 
be washed with warm water, wrapped up in flan- 
nel, and kept free from cold. This application is 
improper if tlie chilblain be broken, but if ap- 
plied before it has arrived at that stage, it has never 
failed in removing the complaint after two or three 
applications. 

Another. — Crude sal ammoniac, 1 oz.; vinegar, 
half a pint; dissolve, and bathe the part, if not yet 
broken, two or three times a day. If sal ammo- 
niac is not at hand, alum or common salt will do, 
but not so eff"ectually. If the chilblains are of 
very long continuance, and obstinate, touch them 
■with equal parts of liquid opodeldoc [Unimentum 
saponis), and tincture of Spanish flies, or rather less 
of the latter. If the chilblains break, poultice or 
dress them with basilicon, and add turpentine if 
uecessary. 

Another. — The following ointment for this an- 
noying disease, has been attended with the most 
beneficial effect: Take of citron ointment, 1 oz.; 
oil of turpentine, 2 drachms; olive oil, 4 do. Mix. 
To be well rubbed over the parts aftected every 
night and morning. 

Another. — The following has also been found 
very beneficial in the cure of chilblains, both in 
the incipient or inflammatory stage, or when ad- 
vanced to ulceration. When in the former state, 
die part should be well rubbed over with it by 
means of a warm hand, and afterwards kept covered 
■with soft thin leather. When ulcerated, it should 
be applied on lint, sufficiently large to cover the 
surrounding inflammation. Take of spermaceti 
ointment, 6 drachms; prepared calomel, 2 scru- 
ples; rectified oil of turpentine, I drachm. Mix. 
Treatment of coi'ns. 

When small in size, they are to be removed 
either by stimulants or escharotics, as the appli- 
cation of nitrate of silver (lunar caustic), merely by 
wetting the corn, and touching it with a pencil of 
the caustic, every evening. Previous to this, the 
skin may he softened by immersion of the feet in 
•warm water. 

Another mode. — Rub together, in a mortar, 2 oz. 
of powder of savine leaves, ^ an oz. of verdigris, 
and- J an oz. of red precipitate, or nitric oxide of 
mercury. Put some of this powder in a linen rag, 
and apply it to the com at bed-time. 

Removed by cutting, &c. — If the corn has at- 
Uined a large size, removal by cutting, or by liga- 



ture, will be proper; if it hangs by a small neck, 
the latter method is preferable. It is done by tj'ing 
a silk thread round the corn, and on its removal 
next day, tying another still tighter, and so on till 
completely femoved. When the base is broad, a 
cautious dissection of the com from the surround- 
ing parts, by means of a sharp knife, or razor, is 
necessary. This is done by paring gently, until 
the whole is removed. In all cases of cutting 
corns, the feet ought to be previously washed, as 
in case of making a wound in the toe, great danger 
may result from want of cleanliness in this respect. 
Mortification has in some instances been the effect 
of such neglect. 

Prevention, &c. 
Corns should be secured from pressure by means 
of a thick adhesive plaster, in the centre of which 
a hole has been made for the reception of the project- 
ing part. This, with frequent immersion in water, 
and occasional paring, has often been found to re- 
move them, and always prevents their enlargement. 
An eflfectual mode ot extii-pation is by the applica- 
tion of a small blister; the eflfect of which will be, 
generally, to raise them, with the skin, out of their 
bed. When rest from labour can be obtained, this 
is an excellent method. Dress the blister (which 
need not exceed the size of a silver sixpence) with 
hogs' lard, or simple wax ointment. 
To remove warts. 
Nitrate of silver (lunar caustic) cures those trou- 
blesome excrescences, called warts, in an extreme- 
ly simple and harmless manner. 

The method of using it is, to dip the end of the 
caustic in a little water, and to rub it over the 
warts. In the course of a few times, by so doing, 
they will be gone. The muriate of ammonia (sal 
ammoniac) is likewise a very useful remedy. " Out 
of twenty years' practice," says a medical corres- 
pondent in the Monthly Magazine, " I never knew 
the above remedies to fail." 

Ward's paste for tlie piles. 
Pulverize finely, in an iron mortar, 1 oz. of 
black pepper, 1 oz. of elecampane-root, and 3 oz. 
of fennel seed, and mix them intimately together. 
Now melt together, over a clear fire, 2 oz. of sugar 
and 2 oz. of clarified honey, so as to form a clear 
syrup, which add to the mixed powder in the mor- 
tar, and heat the whole into a mass of uniform con- 
sistence. This medicine is to be taken, when the 
irritation of piles runs so high as to threaten fistu- 
la. The dose is a piece of the size of a nutmeg, to 
be taken three times a day; this is to be washed 
down by a glass of cold water, or white wine. 
Extraneous bodies in the ear. 
These are to be extracted by means of a small 
forceps, or by syringing the ear with warm or tepid 
water. But should such means prove unsuccess- 
ful, they may be suffered to remain without dan- 
ger, if they do not produce pain, as in a very short 
time they will be forced out by the accumulating 
wax. Insects may be killed by filling the ear with 
oil, and afterwards removed by syringing with 
warm water. 

To check hemorrhage consequent on the extraction 
of teeth. 
Mr Cullen,ofSheerness, recommends the follow- 
ing method for the treatment of the above frequent 
and sometimes serious accident: — " Take a small, 
fine, vial cork, of a size adapted to the socket 
whence the tooth has been extracted and the hx- 
morrhage proceeds; then, with a small dossil of 
lint, wet with aqua styptica, solution of sugar of 
lead, and put on the smallest end of the cork, push 
the cork into tlie bleeding orifice, pressing it firm- 
ly in, till it be, as it were, wedged in the socket; 
and keep it there as long as may be necessary, de- 
siring the patient to press against it with the tee^ 



MEDICINE. 



235 



of the opposite jaw till the bleeding be stopped, 
which it is almost instantly. This acts as a tour- 
niquet, and gives time to use whatever other means 
may be deemed requisite; but it is seldom that any 
thing else is required." 

Jtemedies for diseases of tlie teeth. 

If hollow or decaj'ed, apply compound tincture 
of benjamin, or some essential oil, on cotton, to 
the part; or pills with camphor and opium; or 
chew the roots of pellitory of Spain. Some burn 
the nerve with vitriolic or nitrous acid, or a hot 
iron. — jyiedical Pocket Book. 

CoUyi-ia, or eye-waters. 

Take of extract of lead, 10 drops, rose-water, 6 
«z. Mix, and wash the eyes night and morn- 
ing. 

Another. — Take of extract of lead, 10 drops, 
spirit of camphor, 20 drops, rose-water, half a 
pint. Mix. This eye water is extremely useful 
m ophthalmia, attended with much inflammation. 

Anotlier. — Take of opium, 10 grains, camphor, 
6 grains, boiling water, 12 oz. ; rub the opium and 
camphor with the boiling water, and strain. This 
collj'rium abates the pain and irritation attendant 
on severe cases of inflammation of tiie eyes. 

Another. — Take of white vitriol, ^drachm, spi- 
rits of camphor, 1 drachm, warm water, 2 oz. 
rose-water, 4 oz. Dissolve the vitriol in tiie warm 
water, and add tlie spirit of camplior and rose- 
water. This is a useful coUyrium in the clironic 
state of ophthalmia, or what is generally called 
weakness of the eyes, after inflammation. 

Another. — Dissolve 10 grains of soft extract of 
opium in 6 oz. of warm distilled water; strain 
through fine linen, and then add 2 oz. of liquor of 
acetate of ammonia. Where the pain is great, this 
collyrium will be productive of great relief. 

Another. — Make a lotion for the inflamed eyes 
with 20 drops of tincture of camphor, 10 drops of 
solution of sugar of lead, 1 of Goulard's extract, 
and 7 oz. of distilled water. If the pain is very 
distressing, a drop of tlie vinous tincture of opium 
may be conveyed twice a day into the eye, by 
means of a feather. This is an effectual means of 
obtaining relief. 

Another. — Mix together one ounce of the liquor 
of acetate of ammonia, and 7 oz. of distilled rose- 
water. 

Another. — When the eye is merely weak, fre- 
quent ablution with cold water, either in a basin 
or by means of an eye-cup, of green glass, will be 
of great use. At night a very cooling cataplasm, 
or .poultice, may be made of crumb of bread soak- 
ed in a pint and a half of cold water, in which a 
drachm of alum has previously been dissolved. 
This is to be applied over the eyes in a handker- 
chief when goin^ to bed. 

For injlammation of the eye-lids. 

The following ointment has been found exceed- 
ingly beneficial in inflammations of the eye-ball 
and edges of the eye-lids, which are become very 
prevalent in the metropolis. Take of prepared 
calomel, 1 scruple, spermaceti ointment, \ oz. 
Mix them well together in a glass mortar; apply a 
small quantity to each corner of the eye, evei-y 
night and morning, and also to the edges of the 
lids, if they are aftected. If this should not even- 
tually remove the inflammation, the following lo- 
tion may be applied three or four times a day, by 
means of an eye-cup. The bowels should be kept 
in a laxative statje, by taking occasionally a ^ of an 
oz. of the Cheltenham or Lpsom salts. 

Lotion to be used at the same time. 

Take of acetated zinc, 6 grains, rose-water, 
(fresh) 6 oz. Mix. Before the ointment is applied to 
the corners of the eyes, wash them with this lotion. 
These remedies haveuaiformljr succeeded in every 



case of inflammation of the eyes to which they have 
been applied. 

Treatment of styes. 
These are small abscesses seated in the edge of 
the eyelid, and produced from the obstruction ot 
very minute glands. They are often attended with 
much heat and pain, and always with great incon 
venience. If they do not suppurate quickly, a 
small poultice of bread and milk is to be applied 
warm. When the matter is formed, an opening 
should be made with the point of a lancet, and a 
small portion of weak citrine ointment is after- 
wards to be applied. 

Infusion of senna. 
Take of senna, 3 drachms, lesser cardamom seeds, 
husked and bruised, ^ do.; boiling water, as much 
as will yield a filtered infusion of 6 oz. Digest 
for an hour, and filter, when cold. 

This is a well contrived purgative infusion, the 
aromatic correcting the drastic effects of the sen- 
na. It is of advantage that it should be used fresh 
prepared, as it is apt to spoil very quickly. 
Tartarized infusion of senna. 
Take of senna, 1^ oz. coriander seeds, bruised, 
^ oz. crystals of tartar, 2 drachms, distilled water, 
I pint. Dissolve the crystals of tartar by boiling 
in the water; then pour the liquor, as yet boiling, 
on the senna and seeds. Macerate for an hour, in 
a covered vessel, and strain when cold. The addi 
tion of the crystals of tartar renders the taste of 
the senna less unpleasant, and also promotes its 
action. The quantity to take as a purge, is from 
J an oz. to 1 oz, early in the morning. 
Electuary of senna. 
Take of senna, 8 oz. coriander seeds, 4 oz. li- 
quorice, 4 oz. figs, 1 lb. palp of tamarinds, cassia 
fistula, and prunes, of each § lb. double refined 
sugar, 2^ lbs. Powder the senna with the corian- 
der seeds, and sift out 10 oz. of the mixed pow- 
der; boil the remainder with the figs and liquorice, 
in 4 lbs. of water, to one half; express, and strain 
the liquor, which is then to be evaporated to the 
weight of about 1^ lb. ; dissolve the sugar in it, 
add this syrup, by degrees, to the pulps; and last- 
ly, mix in the powder. 

This electuary is a very convenient laxative, and 
has long been in common use among practitioners. 
Taken to the size of a nutmeg, or more, as occa- 
sion may require, it is an excellent laxative for 
loosening the belly in costive habits. 
Compound colocynth pills. 
Take of pith of colocynth, cut small, 6 di-achms, 
hepatic aloes, 1 1-2 oz. scaminony, 1-2 oz. lesser 
cardamom seeds, husked and bruised, 1 drachm; 
Castile soap, softened witii warm water, so as to 
have a gelatinous consistence, 3 drachms; warm 
water, 1 pint. Digest the colocynth in the water, 
in a covered vessel, with a moderate heat, for 4 
days. To the liquor, expressed and filtered, add 
the aloes and scammony, separately, reduced to 
powder; then evaporate the mixture to a proper 
thickness for making pills, having added, towards 
the end of the evaporation, tlie soap-jelly and pow- 
dered seeds, and mix all the ingredients thorough- 
ly together. 

These pills are much used as warm and stomachic 
laxatives; they are well suited" for costiveness, so 
often attendant on people of sedentary lives, and, 
upon the whole, are one of the most useful articles 
in the materia medica, 

Aloetic pills. 
Take of socotrine aloes, powdered, 1 oz, extract 
of gentian, ^ oz. oil of caraway seeds, 2 scruples, 
syrup of ginger, as much as is sufficient. Beat 
them together. The dose is about tea grains. 
Compound aloetic pills. 
Take of hepatic aloes, 1 oz. ginger root in poif* 



2f?G 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT KOOK. 



der, 1 drachm, soap, hali" oz. essence of pepper- 
iniut, half drachm. Powder the aloes with the 
ginger, then add the soap and the oil, sn as to form 
an intimate mixture. This is an excellent purge 
lor costive habits, in the close of from 5 to 10 gi-s. 
Compound rhubarb pills. 

Take of rhubarb, in powder, 1 oz. socotrine 
aloes, 6 drachms, myrrh, half oz. volatile oil of 
peppermint, half dracimi. Make them into a mass, 
■witii a sufficient quantity of syrup of orange peel. 
^llese pills are intended for moderately warming 
and strengthening the stomach, and gently opening 
tlie belly. A scruple of the mass may be taken 
night and morning. 
Purgative powder, formerly called hiera picra. 

Take of socotrine aloes, I lb. white canella, 3 
oz. Powder them separately, and then mix them. 
The spicy canella acts as a corrigent to tlie aloes; 
but the compound is more adapted to be formed 
into pills than to be used in the state of powder. 
It is a convenient medicine for costive habits, not 
subject to the piles. Dose from 10 grains to a scru- 
ple at bed time. 

Jilild purgative emulsion. 

Take of manna and oil of almonds, each 1 oz. 
prepared kali, 12 grs. cinnamon and rose water, 
each 3 oz. Mix carefully the oil, kali, and man- 
iia together, gradually pouring the liquids to form 
an emulsion, of which take two table-spoonsful 
night and morning. 

Electuary for the piles. 

Take of the electuary of senna, 1^ oz. washed 
flowers of sulphur, 4drs. vitriolated kali, in pow- 
der, 1 do. syrup of roses, as much as is sufficient. 
Make into an electuaiy, of which take the size of 
a nutmeg, going to bed, as may be required. This 
is an excellent remedy for persons who have the 
piles, or are subject to their return. 
Castor oil clyster. 

Take of castor oil, 2 ounces, 1 egg; mix them 
■well, and then add gruel, 8 oz. which will operate 
very mildly, sind is efficacious in case of worms. 
Purging clyster. 

Take of manna, 1 oz. Dissolve in 10 oz. by 
measure, of compound decoction of chamomile; 
then add of olive oil, i oz. sulphate of magnesia*, 
^ ounce. Mix and let it be given directly. 



SEIUSIES Ton. COTTGHS AKD COLDS. 

Paregoric elixir, or camphorated tincture of opium. 

Take of hard purified opium, in powder, ben- 
zoic acid, each, 1 drachm, camphor, 2 scruples, 
essential oil of aniseed, 1 drachm, proof spirit of 
vine, 2 pints. Digest for 10 days, and strain. In 
this formula, the virtues of the opium and the cam- 
phor are combined. It derives an agreeable flavour 
trom the acid of benzoin and essential oil. The 
latter will also render it more stimulating. It was 
originally prescribed under the title of elixir asth- 
malicum, which it does not ill deserve. It con- 
tributes to allay the tickling which provokes fre- 
quent coughing, and at the same time, it opens the 
breast, and gives greater liberty of breathing. It 
is given to children against the chincou^h, isc. in 
doses of from 5 drops to 20; to adults, trom 20 to 
100. Half an ounce, by measure, contains about a 
grain of opium. 

Expectorant pills. 

Take of dried root of squills, in fine powder, J 
scruple, gum ammoniac, lesser cardamom seeds, in 
powder, extract of liquorice, each 1 drachm. Form 
tltem into a mass with simple syrup. This is an 
elegant and commodious form for the exhibition of 
squills, whether for promoting expectoration, or 
WitJi Uie other iotentions to wliidi that medicine 



is applied. The dose is from 10 grains to 1 scra- 
pie, three times a day. 

JViipoleon^a pectoral pills. 
The following recipe was copied from one in the 
possession of the late emperor of France, and was 
a ver)' favourite remedy with Napoleon for diffi- 
culty of breathing, or oppression of the chest, 
arising from a collection of mucus in the air cells 
and vessels of the lungs, and in the gullet. Con- 
siderable benefit has been derived from them in 
many similar cases. Take of ipecaeuanlia root, in 
powder, 30 grains, squill root, in powder, gum 
ammoniac, do. each 2 scruples, mucilage of gum 
arabic, sufficient to form a mass. To be divided 
into 24 pills; 2 to be taken eveiy night and morn- 
ing. 

Dr Ratcliffe''s cough mixture. 
Mix together 4 draclims of syrup of squills, 4 
drachms of elixir of paregoric, 4 drachms of syrup 
of poppies. Of this take a tea-spoonful in a little 
tea or warm water, as occasion requires. 
Dr j\limro''s cough medicine. 
Take 4 drachms of paregoric elixir, 2 drachms 
of sulphuric ether, 2 drachms of tincture of tolu. 
Mix, and take a tea-spoonful niglit and morning, 
or when the cough is troublesome, in a little milk- 
warm water. 

Simple remedy for coughs. 
Take of boiling water, half a jjint, black cur- 
rant jelly, a dessert-spoonful, sweet spirit of nitre, 
a tea-spoonful. Mix the jelly in tlie water firsS, 
till it is quite dissolved, and add the nitre last. 
Take a dessert spoonful of the mixture at night, 
going to bed, or when the cough is troublesome. 
The mixture should be made and kept in a tea-pot, 
or other covered vessel. 

Remedy for chronic cough. 
The following is very serviceable in common ob- 
stinate coughs, unattended with fever. Take of 
tincture of tolu, 3 drachms, elixir of paregoric, 
^ an ounce, tincture of squills, 1 drachm. Two 
tea-spoonsful to be taken in a tumbler of barley- 
water going to bed, and when tlie cough is troiv- 
blesome. 

For coughs in aged persons. 
In the coughs of aged persons, or in cases where 
thei'e are large accumulations of purulent or viscid 
matter, with feeble expectoration, tlie following 
mixture will be found highly beneficial: Pour gra- 
dually 2 drachms of nitric acid, diluted in half a 
pint of water, on 2 drachms of gum ammoniac, and 
triturate them in a glass mortar, until the gum is 
dissolved. A table-spoonful to be taken, in sweet 
eued water, every two or three hours. 
Cough emidsion. 
Take of oil of almonds, 6 drachms, milk of do, 
5 oz. rose water, gum arabic, and purified sugar, 
equal parts, 2 drachms. Let these be well rubbed 
together, and take 2 table-spoonsful four times a 
day, and a tea-spoonful upon coughing. This fs 
far preferable to the common white emulsions 
formed by an alkali, which, uniting with the oil, 
produces a kind of soap, and readily mingling with 
water, forms the white appearance observed, and 
is commonly disgusting to patients, and unpleasant 
to the stomach; whereas this suits, every palate, 
and removes that tickling in the throat so very dis- 
tressing to patients. 

Emulsion for a co-Id, &c. 
Take of milk of almonds, 1 oz. syrup of tolu, 
2 drachms, rose water, 2 do. tincture of squills, 
16 drops. Make into a draught. Four to be taken 
during the day. This is an admirable remedy in 
colds, and also in consumptions, as well as in 
asthma. 

Gargle for thrush. 
Thrush, or aplithte in the mouth, will be greatly 



MEDICINE. 



237 



benefited by (he frequent use of the following 
!^ar2;le. Mix together 20 drops of muriatic acid 
(spirit of salts,) I ounce of honey of roses, and 4 
ounces of decoction of barley. 

.inother. — Make a gargle of 2 drs. of borax, 1 
<Tz. of lioney of roses, and 7 oz. of rose water. To 
be used three or four times a day. 

Gargle for sore throat. 

Take of decoction of bark, 7 oz. tincture of 
tnyrrh, 2 drachms, purified nitre, 3 do. Make in- 
to a gargle. Tiiis is a sovereign method to dis- 
perse a tumefied gland, or common sore throat. 
I?y taking upon such occasions a small lump of pu- 
rified nitre, putting it into the mouth, and letting 
it dissolve there, then removing it, and applying it 
again in a few seconds, and swallowing the saliva, 
1 have, says Dr Thornton, for many years prevent- 
ed a sore throat from forming. 

For p7itrid sore throat. 

Takeof decoction of bark, 6 oz. diluted vitriolic 
aciil, 1 drachm^ honey of roses, 1 oz. Make into 
a gargle; to be used, mixed with port wine, fre- 
quently during the day. 

Far iiijlammatory sore throat. 

Take of nitre, 2 drs. honey, i do. rose water, 
6 oz. Mix. To be used frc(piently. 

Anotht^r. — Take of spirits of salts, 20 drops, 
iioney of roses, ^ oz. water, 4 do. Mix. 
For ulcerated sore throat. 

The purified lignic acid, in cases of putrid ulce- 
l"ated sore throat, has been attended with the most 
ilecisive success. Its internal exhibition more ef- 
fectually allays thirst, and abates fever, than any 
other acid; and when applied as a gargle to inflam- 
ed or ulcerated sore throats, it has been found to 
disperse the inflammation, and to deterge the ul- 
cers more eftectualiy than the infusion of rose 
leaves with the sulphuric acid, the gargle general- 
ly resorted to in tlkose cases. The concentrated 
acid may be given in the dose of from 40 to 60 
drops in a glass of water three or four limes a day. 
For the purpose of gargling the throat, 4 drachms 
of the concentrated acid may be added to half a 
pint of water. 



MEDICIJfK FOR WORMS, 

The male fern. 

The root of male fern lias long been esteem- 
ed a powerful remedy for worms; and its pow'ier 
has been solil under a fictitious name, as an infalli- 
ble specific for the broad or tape worm. Some- 
times it has been ordered to be taken without any 
mixture; at other times gamboge, scammony, mer- 
cur)', and other purgative medicines, have been or- 
dered to be taken with it. 

In the year iTbb, the late king of France pur- 
chased, for a large sum of money, the recipe of a 
jnedicine whicii was sai<l to be an effectual cure for 
the tape worm, from the widow of a surgeon in 
Switzerland, whose husband used to administer it. 
On discovery it proved to be fern root, reduced to 
powder, which is to be taken in the following man- 
ner: The day before the patient is to begin to take 
Ihe fern, he is to' take a dose of some opening 
medicine, and after its operation to make a very 
light Slipper; next morning he is to take 3 drachms 
of the powder of the fern-root, in a cup of lime- 
flower water, and after it a little orange-peel, or 
some other grateful aromatic; and if he vomits it 
up, to take soon after another full dose of the pow- 
der of the fern-root. Two hours after this is swal- 
lowed, the following purging powders are to be 
taken, viz. 12 grains of resin of scammony, mixed 
•with as much of the panacea mercurialis, (calomel 
'iiK«sted in spirit of wine), aod 5 graiDS of gnm' 



boge, in powder; the dose being made stronger or 
weaker, ascording to the strength of the patient. 
Soon after taking\his dose, the patient is to drink 
tea, and as soon "as the physic begins to operate, if 
he^ierceives that the taenia is coming away, he i^ 
to remain on the clnse-stool till it has entirely 
passed; if the pvn-gative should prove too weak, 
the patient is to take a dose of Epsom salts, and to 
drink freely of broth. If the first dose of the fern 
powder, and of the purging medicine, has not the 
desired effect, the powder and purge are to be re- 
peated next day; and if at any time the ta;nia is 
observed to be coming away, the greatest care muit 
be taken not to break it. 

Worm seed. 
Worm seed is one of the oldest and most com- 
mon anthelmintics, especially in the lumbrici of 
children. On account of their essential 'oil, they 
are heating and stimulating. They are given to 
children to the extent of 10 grains, or^ a drachm, 
finely powdered, and strewed on bread and butler; 
or made into an electuary with honey or treacle; 
or candied with sugar; or diffused through milk, 
and taken in the morning when the stomach is 
empty. After they have been used for some days, 
it is customary to give a cathartic; or they are com- 
bined from the beginning Avith rhubarb, jalap, or 
calomel. 

To destroy ascarides. 
Take of socotrine aloes, 2 drachms, new milk, 8 
oz. Rub them together for a clyster. This is use- 
ful to destroy the ascarides, or little thread- 
worm. 

Powder of tin. 
In a tea-spoonful of honey, or currant jelly, mix 
a drachm of powder of tin, and take it twice a day 
for six successive mornings and evenings, making 
altogether 12 drachms, or 1| oz. of the tin. A 
little rhubarb, or any mild aperient medicine, may 
be taken each alternate night of the six. This is 
the quantity for an adult person, but would not 
prove too much for a cliild, we apprehend, as the 
tin does not act upon the bowels, but upon ll>e 
worm itself. 

Oil of turpentine. 
Dr Gibney, of Cheltenham, observes, that the 
oil of turpentine is almost a specific in every spe- 
cies of worms, and its failure, in the practice of 
many physicians, he attributes to the improper ex- 
hibition of it. When the dose is not sufficiently 
large, it affects the kidneys and skin, and pi-oduces 
no effect on the worm, or intestinal canal. He pre- 
scribes 1 or 2 drachms, at intervals, for children 
of 3 years of age, and 6 drachms for older children, 
and more for adults. He directs it to be taken 
when the stoftiach is most empty, and enjoins strict 
abstinence during its use. Begin with a good 
dose early in the morning, and repeat it every hour 
for three or four hours, as circumstar.ces may in- 
dicate. Combine with it mucilage of gum arable, 
simple cinnamon water, and syrup. And, in case 
it should not operate on the bowels as an aperient, 
take a dose of castor oil. This treatment is re- 
newed about eveiy four or five days, for some time 
after the evacu.ttioki of worms, or until the fseoes 
become healthy. 

Essence of hergamot. 
An Italian physician, of great eminence, has 
found the " essentia de cedra,'^ (essence of berga- 
mot,) in the dose of one or two drachms, (mixed 
with honey,) more efficacious in destroying the 
tape, and also the long round worm, than the oil 
of turpentine or naphtha. 

For tape-worm tn children. 
Beat up 5^ drachms of rectified oil of turpen- 
tine, with the yolk of an egg, and some sugar and 
^ water, or common syrup< Give tikis to a «biid 



238 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



having (ape-worms. Two doses are sure of ex- 
pelling them. 

Fo'' the long' round vtorms. 

Take of tartarian southernwood seed, bruised, 
tansy seed, ditto, of each, 1 oz. Valerian root, pow- 
dered, '2 drachms, jalap root, ditto, ^ drachm, sul- 
phate of potass, H ditto, oxymel of squills, suffi- 
cient to form an electuary. A dessert-spoonful is 
to be taken morning and evening. 

C/m'/i^'s ivorm lozenges. 

Efficacious as this domestic medicine is, it is still 
dangerous in unskilful hands. With this precau- 
tion, the composition from which these lozenges 
ai'e made, is staled as follows: 

The yellow lozenges. 

Take of saffron, \ an ounce: boil it in one gal- 
lon of water, and having strained it off, add of 
calomel, washed in spirit of wine, 12 ounces; 
white sugar, 28 pounds; mucilage of tragacanth, 
sufficient to make the mass. Itoll this out of a 
sufficient thickness, so that each lozenge may con- 
tain one grain of calomel. If cut of any other 
shape tiian square, as round or oval, much of the 
mass will require making up again and again; it 
follows, that in the square form, the mass would 
make 5760 lozenges, whilst the first cutting, in the 
oval or round, would only produce 2-3ds of that 
number. Dose, from one to six, a'ccording to age. 
The brown lozenges. 
* Take of the calomel, (as above) seven ounces, 
resin of jalap, Z\ pounds, sugar, 9 pounds, muci- 
lage of tragacanth, as much as may be found suffi- 
cient to form the mass, whicli must be cut out into 
6720 pills, or lozenges; thus, leaving in each, half 
a grain of the panacea. The dose of these brown 
pills is from one to six, according to age and 
strength. The yellow lozenge is to be taken at 
night, the brown on the following morning. Cold 
is to be avoided durins: the course. 



MZDICIJTES roll INDIGESTION. 

Gentian wine. 

Take gentian root and dried lemon-peel, fresh, of 
each 1 ounce, 2 drachms of long pepper, and 2 
pints of mountain wine: infuse wiliiout heat for a 
week, and strain out the wine for use. In com- 
plaints of the stomach, arising from weakness or 
indigestion, a glass of this wine may be taken an 
hour before dinner and supper. 
Chalybeate wine. 

Take 2 oz. of filings of iron, cinnamon and 
mace, each 2 drachms, and 2 pints of llhenisli 
wine. Infuse for three or four weeks, frequently 
shaking the bottle, then pass the wine through a 
filter. This wine is a remedy for obstruction of 
the menses. The dose is half a wine glass taken 
twice or thrice a day. Lisbon wine, if siiarpened 
with half an oz. ofcream of tartar, is also beneficial. 
JPowerful tonic. 

Take of decoction of bark, 6 oz. compound 

tincture of bark, 1 oz. bark, in powder, I drachm, 

calcined magnesia, I do. Form a mixture. Two 

table-spoonsful are to be given tiiree times a day. 

For debility of the stomach. 

Take of chamomile flowers, lemon peel, orange 
do. each 4 drachms, boiling water I pint. Let 
them remain for four hours, and strain. To tiie 
strained liquor add syrup of ginger, 6 dr. The dose 
is a wine-glassful, in the morning early, and repeal- 
an hour before dinner, for habits debilitated by 
drinking, or natural weakness of the stomach. 
Stomachic aperient pills. 

The pills made according to the following recipe, 
have been long prescribed as a dinner pill vTiih suc- 
ccfls: Take of rhub.irb root powdered, 1^ drachms. 



Turkey myrrh, 1 do. socotrine aloes, i do. extract 
of chamomile flowers, 2^ do. essential oil of do. 
16 drops. Mix well together, and divide into 80 
pills. Two or three to be taken about an hour be- 
fore dinner. 

Tonic draught in cases of great debility. 

Take of the decoction of bark, 12 drachms, tinc- 
ture of bark, 1 ditto, syrup of Tolu, ^ ditto, diluted 
vitriolic acid, 8 drops. Make into a draught, to 
be taken three times a day. 

Dr Baillie^s prescription for indigestion. 

Dissolve three drachms of sulniiate of magnesia 
in half a pint of the infusion ol roses (made ac- 
cording to the London Pharmacopceia), and then 
add half an ounce of the tincture of cascarilla. 
Three table-spoonsful to be taken twice a <lay; i. e. 
between the hours of breakfast and dinner, and in 
the evening. 

Abernethy''s prescription for indigestion. 

Take of calomel (or sub-muriate of mercmy), 
precipitated sulphuret of antimony, each 1 scruple, 
powder of gum guaiacum, 2 scruples, Spanish 
soap, as much as will be sufficient to form into 20 
pills, which are to be taken night and morning. 
For indigestion and costiveness. 

The following remeilies for indigestion, attend- 
ed with heart-burn and costiveness, were prescrib- 
ed by Dr Gregory, of Edinburgh: Take of carbo- 
nate of potass, 4 draclmis, simple cinnamon water, 
pure water, each 6 oz. compound tincture of gen- 
tian, ^ oz. Mix. 'I'hree large spoonsful are to be 
taken twice a day. 

Jlccompanying purgative. 

Take of compound pill of aloes, with colocynth, 
2 drachms. To be divided into 24 pills, two to be 
taken twice a week. 

Remedy for flatulency. 

Take of bay berries, 6 di-aclims, grains of para- 
dise, 2 do. socolrine aloes and filings of iron, each 
2 scruples, oil of turpentine, 2 drachms, simple 
syrup, sufficient to form an electuary. 
lir Jieece''s remedy for flatulence and cramp in 
tlie stomach. 

Take of carbonate of soda, 1 drachm, com- 
pound tincture of rhatany, 1 ounce, compound 
tincture of ginger and chamomile, 3 drachms, cam- 
phorated julep, 7 ounces. Mix. Three table- 
spoonsful are to be taken twice a day. 
J\'ight-mare, 

Great attention is to be paid to regularity and 
choice of diet. Intemperance of every kind is 
hurtful, but nothing is more productive of this 
disease than drinking bad wine. Of eatables, those 
which are most prejudicial are, all fat and greasy 
meats, most vegetables, fruit, and pastry. These 
ought to be avoided, or eaten with caution. The 
same may be said of salt meats, for which dyspep- 
tic patients have frequently a remarkable predilec- 
tion, but which are not on that account the less 
noxious. 

Moderate exercise contributes, in a superior de- 
gree, to promote the digestion of food, and prevent 
flatulence: those, however, who are necessarily 
confined to a sedentary occupation, should parti- 
cularly avoid applying to study, or bodily labour, 
immediately after eating. If a strong propensity 
to sleep should occur after dinner, it will be cer- 
tainly better to indulge it a little, as the process of 
digestion frequently goes on much belter during 
sleep than when awake. 

Going to bed before the usual hour is a frequent 
cause of night-mare, as it either occasions the pa- 
tient to sleep too long, or to lie long awake in the 
niglit. Passing a whole night, or part of a night, 
without rest, likewise gives birth to the disease, as 
it occasions the patient, on the succeeding night, to 
sleep too soundly. Indulging in sleep too late iu 



MEDICIKE. 



23*1 



the morning, is an almost certain metliod to bring 
on the paroxysm, and the more frequently it returns, 
the greater strength it acquires; tlie propensity to 
sleep at this time is almost irresistible. Those who 
are habitually subject to the attacks of tlie night- 
mare ought never to sleep alone, but to have some 
persons near them, so as to be immediately awoke 
by their groans or struggles; and the person to 
whom this office may be entrusted, should be in- 
structed to rouse the patient as early as possible, 
that the paroxysm may not have time to gain 
strength. 

Digestive pills. 

Take of soft extract of quassia, 1 dr.; essential 
oil of peppermint, 1 drop. Make into 12 pills, of 
•which take three an hour before dinner. These 
])ills are excellent to create digestion in habits in- 
jured by hard drinking. 

To improve digestion. 

Eat a small crust of bread every morning, fast- 
ing, about an hour before breakfast. 
To restore the appetite. 

Take of shavings of quassia, 2 drachms; boiling 
water, 1 pint. Let this remain in a close vessel 
until cold, when strain off, and add to the strained 
liquor, compound tincture of cardamoms, 2 nz. ; 
spirit of lavender, 4 drs. ; powder of rbubarli, I 
scruple. Take three table-spoonsful an hour before 
dinner to create an appetite. 

Aluetic and assafostida pills. 

Take of socotrine aloes, in powder, assafostida, 
soap, equal parts. Form tbem into a mass with 
mucilage of gum arabic. These pills, in doses of 
about ten grains twice a day, produce tlie most sa- 
lutarj- effects in cases of dyspepsia, attended with 
hysteria, flatulence, and costiveness. 
Fur heart burn. 

This complaint is an uneasy' sensation in tlie sto- 
mach, with anxiety, a heat more or less violent, 
and sometimes attended wiili opi>ression, faiiitness, 
an inclination to vomit, or a plentiful discharge of 
clear lymph, like saliva. 

This pain may arise from various causes; such as 
wind, sharp humours, and worms gnawing the 
coats of tlie stomach; also from aci'id and pungent 
food; likewise from rheumatic and gouty humours, 
or surfeits, and from too free a use of tea. 

The diet should be of a light animal kind; the 
drink brandy and water, toast and water, Bristol 
water; no vegetables should be allowed; very little 
bread, and that well toasted. 

If heartburn has arisen from acidity in the rto- 
mach, it will be necessary, after a gentle emetic, 
to take 2 table-spoonsful of the following mixture 
three times a day: — 3 dr. of magnesia, I scruple of 
rhubarb, in powder; 1 oz. of cinnamon water, ^ a 
dr. of spirit of lavender, and^ oz. of distilled water. 
For heartburn, attended by pain and Jiatidence. 

Mix together 12 grains of prepared chalk, ^ an 

oz. of peppermint water, 1 oz. of pure v/ater, 2 

<lrs. of spirit of pimento, and 12 drops of tincture 

of opium. This draught is to be taken 3 times a day. 

For heartburn, attended by costiveness. 

In tliis case, gentle laxatives, combined with car- 
minatives, are to be administered, until the cause 
is entirely removed. Take of confection of senna, 
2 oz.; jalap, in powder, 2 drs.; compound povrder 
of cinnamon, 20 grains; cream of tartar, I dr., and 
syrup of ginger as much as will form an electuary; 
of which the bulk of a walnut is to be taken every 
nigjit on going to bed. 



DIAKRHOSA, GOUT, BHKUMATISM, &C. 

To check diarrhoea, or looseness. 
Take oltlie soft extract of bark, 15 grains; puri- 



fied alum, in powder, 5 do.; tincture of opium, 6 
drops. Make into a bolus, to be taken three times 
a day, in half a glass of red wine. 

Another method. — Tak^ of tincture of opium, 15 
drops; chalk mixture, 6oz.; cinnamon water, 1 oz. 
Make into a mixture, of which take a large table- 
spoonful every six hours. 

Another. — Take of powder of rhubarb, 10 grs. ; 
powder of chalk, with opium, 1 scruple; do. with- 
out do. 1 dr. Make into four papers, of which 
take one night and morning. 

Another. — Take of tincture of opium, 20 drops; 
chalk mixture, 4^ oz. ; tincture of cinnamon, ^ oz. ; 
cinnamon water, 2 oz. Make a mixture, of which 
take two table-spoonsful after eveiy liquid motion. 
Given in diarrhiea, and the looseness often attend- 
ant upon consum))tion. 

Treatment of obstinate diarrhaa. 

Take of bark, in powder, 2 scruples; compound 
powder of chalk, with opium, 10 grains. Form a 
powder, to be taken three or four times a day. 
This is excellent in obstinate diarrhcEa, first eva- 
cuating with rhubarb and columbo, equal parts, 3 
grains every four hours. 

Anodyne clynter. 

Take of tincture of opium, 2 drachms; decoction 
of barley, 8 oz. Make a clyster, to be thrown up 
directly. To stop diarrhcea and remove spasm. 
Opiate enema. 

Take of mi!k of assafoetida, 8 oz. ; tincture of 
opium, 1 draclmi. To be injected as a clyster at 
bed time. Tliis is useful in disorders of the anus, 
which induce insufferable pain. 

Jiemedy for piles. 

Take of galls, in powder, 2 drachms; hogs' lard, 
-J an oz. ]\lake into an ointment, to be applied by 
means of lint to the external piles, or even pressed 
somewhat np tlie fundament every night. This 
has done wonders in the piles, taking, at the same 
time, the following: Take of quassia, in raspings, 
2 drachms; boiling water, 1 pint. Let it remain 
three hours, strain; to 7 ounces of the strained li- 
quor, a(hl aromatic confection, 1 (h-achni; ginger, 
in powder, 2 scruples. Take of this mixture, 2 
table-spoonsful at twelve and seven eveiy day. 
Fills for rheumatism. 

Take of guaiacum" (gum resin) in powder, soap, 
equal parts, I drachm, essential oil of juniper 
berry, 4 drops. Make into 28 pills; take 2 four 
times a day. This is an achnirable remedy. 
Ointment for the same. 

In America, an ointment of stramonium, made by 
gently boiling 6 ounces of the recentleaves(bruisod) 
in a pound and a iialfof fresh hog's lard, till they 
become crisp, is in high repute as a i-emedy for 
this disease. The size of a nutmeg, Dr Turner, 
of Philadelphia, has found to remove rheumatic 
pains, after electricity and powerful liniments, 
with internal remedies, had totally failed; and Dr 
ZoUickoffer says, that he has known tlie stramo- 
nium ointment to succeed in cases of rheumatism, 
after the internal exhibition of the tincture of stra- 
monium had no effect. For internal use he jirefers 
a tincture of the leaves (made in the proportion of 
an ounce and a half of tlie dried leaves to a pint of 
proof spirit) to the extract. 

Draught for lumbago and sciatica. 

At a recent meeting of the JNledical Society of 
London, oil Of turpentine was strongly recom- 
mended, as being almost a pani.cea for acute rheu- 
matism, &c. The formula in which it was admin- 
istered is as follows:^Oil of turpentine, 20 drops, 
decoction of bark, l^ oz. To be taken every 4 
hours. The use of the lancet and purgatives wei-e 
generally premised. No sensible operation ensued 
from the medicine; but the patients were t^uickly 
relieved of the complaint. 



240 



UNI\TinSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



jRheiimatic pahis j>j the face. 

M. Double has administered the sulphate of 
Peruvian bark in several cases of acute pains in the 
face, approaching to tic doloreux, with complete 
success. He advises it to be given in tlie dose of 
C grains, dissolved in camphorated jii'lap, three 
times a day. 

Friction, compression, and peraissinn. 

Not onlj' riieumatism, but the cramp and gout, 
Avhich bear affinitj' to each oilier, have long been 
greatly relieved by friction, wlierever it was bear- 
able, but some cures were performed upon patients 
slightly attacked, by pertinaciously rubbing tiie 
parts da)' after day: to this method of obtaining 
relief, Dr lialfour has recently added tliose ot 
compression and percussion, with complete suc- 
cess. Percussion at the sole of the foot relieves 
pain there and higher up the limb, and compres- 
sion affords a certain degree of ease. Compression, 
J-Ione upon the tendon of the heel, (grasping by 
the warm hand between the finger and thumb), is 
sure to afford relief, as long as the pressure is con- 
tinued, at least so far as the knee. A bandage 
round the thigh gives instant relief to that part of 
the member; grasping, or repealed pitichings, leave 
the patient in comjiarative ease. Percnshion, by 
the patient himself, with his crutch, upon the spot 
most afiected, is very beneficial. Dr Balfour 
" pummels" the same part daily, until the cure is 
effected. 

Tremor, caused by lifting up the limb, is always 
to be checked by passing a bandage round the 
ancle; and the reason assigned for tliis whole series 
of remedies is the excitement of certain nerves to 
action, or arresting that of others. This jjractice 
is b)' no means a novelty: it has long been employ- 
ed by the negroes upon iheir Eurojieau masters, by 
whora it is termed " shamproing." 
Remedy for the guut. 

Take of rhubarb, powdered, guaiac gum, nitrate 
of potass, flowers of sulphur, each, 1 oz. treacle, 1 
pound. Mix well together. P'rom one to two 
teaspoonsful (according to its aperient effects) to 
be taken every night, with a little warm gin and 
water. 

7'/je Chelsea pensioner''s remedy for gout and 
rhewnatism. 

Gum guaiacum, 2 drachms, rhubarb, pulv. ^ 
drachm, flowers of sulphur, J^ oz. cream of tartar, 
2 drachms, nutmeg, or ginger powder, ^ dr. 
Made an electuary with treacle, and two teaspoons- 
ful taken night and morning; and if the fit of the 
gout or rheumatism is severe, a glass of hot rum 
and water after being in bed; if much fever, white 
■« ine and water, or hot gruel. To be continued a 
few days. If 2 spoonsful relax the bowels too 
much, then only 1. 

Gout cordial. 

Tl'.e following is a valuable remedy for gout and 
spasms in the stomach. 'I'ake of the lesser carda- 
mom seeds, husked and bruised, caraway seeds, 
liruised, each, 2 oz. the best meadow saffron, ^ an 
oz. Turkey rhubarb, thinly sliced, 1 Joz. getitian 
root, do. ^ of an oz. Mix, and infuse in a wine 
quart bottle of white brandy for a fortnight. The 
(lose is a table-spoonful, with an eijual quantity of 
vater, to be taken every third day. 
The Portland povii'ler. 

Take of aristolochia i-otunda, or birthwort root, 
gentian root, tops and leaves, germander, do. 
ground pine, do. centaury, do. Take of all these, 
■well dried, powdered, and sifted fine, equal weight: 
mix them well together, and take 1 drachm of this 
mixed powder every morning fasting, in a cup of 
vine and water, broth, lea, or any other vehicle 
Tou like best; keep fasting an hour and a half after 
It) continue this for three mouths without inter- 



ruption, then diminish the dose to ^ of a di-acTim 
for three months longer, then to ^ a drachm for 
six months more, taking it regularly every morn- 
ing if possible: after the first year, it will be suffi- 
cient to take ^ a drachm every other day. As this 
medicine operates insensibly, it will perhaps take 
two years before you receive any great benefit, so 
you .must not be discouraged, tliough you do not 
|ierceive at first any great amendment; it works 
slow, but sure; it doth not confine the patient to 
any particular diet, so one lives soberly, and ab- 
stains from those meats and liquors that have 
always been accounted pernicious in the gout, aa 
champaign, diams, high sauces, &c. 

N. B. In rheumatism which is not habitual, a 
few of the drachm doses may do; but if habitual, 
or of long duration, the powder must be taken as 
for the gout. The remedy requires patience, as it 
operates but slowly in both distempers. 
Pradier''s cataplasm. 

Pradier's remedy for the gout was purchased by 
the Emperor Napoleon, pro bono publico, for 
iJ2j00: — Take of balm of Mecca, 6 dr. red bark, 
1 oz. saffron, ^ oz. sarsaparilla, 1 oz. sage, 1 oz. 
rectified spirit of wine, 3 lbs. Dissolve separatelr 
the balm of Mecca in one-third of the spirit of 
wine; macerate tlie rest of the substances in tire 
remainder for forty -eight hours, filter, and mix the 
two liquors for use; the tincture obtained is mixed 
with twice or thrice the quantity of lime water; the 
bottle must be shaken in order to mix the precipi- 
tate, settled at the bottom by standing. 
J\lode of application. 

The following is the mode of employing the 
remedy. A poultice must be prepared of linseed 
meal, which must be of good consistency and 
spread very hot, of the thickness of a finger, on a 
napkin, so as to be able completely to surround the 
part affected; if it be required for both legs, from 
the feet to the knees, it will take about 3 quarts of 
linseed nieal. When the poultice is prepared, and 
as hot as the patient can bear it, about 2 ounces of 
the prepared liquor must be poured equally over 
the whole of the surface of each, without its being 
imbibed; the jiart affected is then to be wrapped 
up in it, and bound up with flannel and bandageS 
to preserve the heat. The poultice is generally 
changed every 24 hours, sometimes at the end of 
twelve. 



rUMICATIOS AXD TENTIlATIOir. 

To purify tlie air in hulls, theatres, and hospital*. 

Dr Van Marum has discovered a very simple 
method, proved by repeated experiments, of pre- 
serving the air pure in lai'ge halls, theatres, hospi- 
tals, Sec. The ap[)aratus for this purpose is nothing 
but a common lamp, made according to .^rgand's 
construction, suspended from the roof of the hall, 
and kept burning under a funnel, the tube of whicfi 
rises above the roof without, aiid is furnished with 
a ventilator. For his first experiment he filled his 
large laboratory with the smoke of oak shavings. 
In a few minutes after he lighted his lamp, the 
whole smoke disappeared, and the air was perfectly 
purified. 

■ Simple mode of ventilation. 

Ships' holds are well ventilated when there is 
wind, by means of a sail, rigged out from the deck 
to below, like a funnel, whose largest orifice points 
to leeward. But in some situations, as prisons, 
where foul air stagnates, this method cannot be 
adopted. Therefore, the plan has been adopted 
of making two holes in the side of the building or 
ship, communicating with the open air by a tin 
tube. Two pair of bellows are fitted up, the oozzls 



MEDICINE. 



241 



oT one being introduced air-tiglit into one of the 
Uu tubes, and a leathei-n pipe nailed on the wall, 
over the other tube, to M'hich it may be fastened 
by wax thread. The other end of this pipe is to 
be made fast to the clicker-holc of the second ])air 
of bellows: a luting of plaster of Paris, render- 
ing both ends air-tight. A common blacksmith's 
forge bellows will thus empty a space containing 
thirty hogsheads of foul air, and supply its place 
AvilJi good fresVi air in a very few minutes. 
Air-pilH's for ventilating ships, <Jc. 
' Air-pipes are used for drawing foul air out of 
ships, or other close places, by means of fire. One 
extremity is placed in a hole in the side of a fur- 
nace, (closed in every part excepting the outlet 
for the smoke); the other in the place which it is 
designed to purify. The rarefaction produced by 
the fire, causes a current of air to be determined 
to it, and the only means by which the air can ar- 
rive at the fire being through the pipe, a quick 
circulation in the place where the extremity of the 
pipe may be situated, is consecjuently produced, 
. The air trunk. 

This apparatus was contrived by Dr Hales, to 
prevent the stagnation of putrid effluvia in jails and 
other places, wiiere a great mimber of people are 
crowded together. It consists merely of an oblong 
trunk open at both ends, one of which is inserted 
into the ceiling of the room, the air of which is to 
be kept pure: and the other extends a good way 
beyond the roof, 'through this trunk a continued 
circulation is carried on; and the reason why va- 
pours of this kind ascend more swiftly through 
a long trunk than a short one, is, that the pressure 
of fluids is always according to their different 
depths, without regard to the diameter of their 
basis, or of the vessel that contains them. When 
the column of putrid efliuvia is long and narrow, 
the difference between the column of atmosphere 
pressing on the upper end of tiie trunk, and that 
which presses on the lower end, is much greater 
than if the column of putrid effluvia was short and 
wide; and consequently the ascent is much swifter. 
One pan of a single pair of scales, which was two 
inches in diameter, being held within one of these 
trunks over the House of Commons, the force of 
the ascending air made it rise so as to require four 
gi'ains to restore the equilibrium, and this when 
there was no person in the house: but when it was 
full, no less than 12 grains were requisite to restore 
the equilibrium; which clearly shows that these 
trunks must be of real and very great efficacy. 
German method of cooling and purifying tlie air 
in summer. 

In the hot days of sunyner, especially in houses 
exposed to the meridian sun, a capacious vessel 
filled with cold water is placed in the middle of a 
room, and a few green liranches (or as many as it 
will hold) of lime, birch, or willow-tree, are 
plunged with the lower end-s into the fluid. By 
this easy expedient, the apartment is, in a short 
time, rendered much cooler; the evaporation of 
the water producing this desirable eft'ect in sultrj- 
•weather, without any detriment to health, lie- 
sides, the exhalation of green plants, under the in- 
fluence of the solar rays, greatly tends to purity 
the air; but care must be taken that they do not 
remain in the apartment after night-fall, or in tlie 
shade. 

To fumigate fold rooms. 

To one table-spoonful of common salt, and a 
little powdered manganese, in a glass cup, add, 
four or five diflerent times, a qunrter of a wine 
glass of strong vitriolic acid. Place the cup on the 
lloor, and go out, taking care to shut the door. 
I'he vapour will come in contact with the malig- 
aaot miasma, and destroy it. 
2 F 



Cautions in rUsifuig sick rooms. 

Never venture into a sick room in a violent per- 
spiration, (if circumstances require a continuance 
there for any time,) for the moment the body be- 
comes cold, it is in a state likely to absorb the in- 
fection, and receive the disease. Nor visit a sick 
person (especially if the complaint be of a conta- 
gious nature) with an empty stomach; as this dis- 
poses the system more readily to receive the infec-^ 
tion. In attending a sick person, stand where the 
air passes from the door or window to the bed of 
the diseased, not betwixt tlie diseased person and 
any fire that is in the room, as the heat of the fire 
will draw tlie infectious vapour in that direction, 
and much danger would arise from breathing in it. 
Fumigating powder. 

Take of cascarilla, reduced to a coarse powder, 
chamomile flowers, aniseed, each, equal parts, 2 
oz. Put some hot cinders in a shovel, sprinkle 
this gi-adually on it, and fumigate tlie chambers of 
tlie sick. It takes oflf all smell, and keeps off in- 
fection. 

Preparation of acetic acid. 

Put 4 ounces of acetate of lead, in powder, into a 
tubulated glass retort, and pour over it 4 ounces of 
sul[)huric acid. Place the retort in a sand-bath, 
the heat of which should be kept as uniform as pos- 
sible. Adapt a common receiver, over whicli there 
must be constantly kept a piece of wet flannel or 
cotton for the condensation of the gas as it comes 
over. Sometimes sulphurous acid gas will be 
found to adulterate the acetic acid; iliis is easily 
known by the suffocating odour which it emits. 
Tiie best way to prevent this, is by a slow distilla- 
tion; or the whole may be distilled a second time. 
The acetic acid possesses a very pungent odour, * 
owing to its ■'olatility; consequently it should be 
kept in a well stopped phial. It is used as the 
basis of all the aromatic vinegars. 
Aromatic vinegar. 

Acetic acid may be mixed with ca.nphor and 
aromatics, as in Henry's aromatic vinegar, in a 
quantity sufficient for a small smelling bottle, at no 
great expense. But it is the acetic acid wiiich is 
useful in preventing infection, and not the aromat- 
ics, which are added for the pleasure of the perfume. 
Cheap aromatic vinegar for purifying large build- 
higs, manufactories, &c. 

Take of common vinegar any quantity; mix a 
sufficient quantity of powdered chalk or common 
whiting with it, as long as bubbles of carbonic acid 
gas arise. Let the white matter subside, and pour 
off the insipid supernatant liquor; afterwards let 
the white powder be dried either in the open air or 
by a fire. When dry, pour upon it, in a glass or 
stone vessel, sulphuric acid as long as white acid 
fumes continue to ascend. This product is similar 
to the acetic acid, known in the shops b_v tiie name 
of aromatic vinegar. The simplicity o* this pro- 
cess points it out as a verj' useful and commodious 
one for purifying prisons, hospital ships, and 
houses, where contagion is presumed, or suspecteil, 
the white acid fumes difi'u-sing themselves quickly 
around. 

I'o prevent and destroy the mephitism of plastered 
■walls. 

Wherever a number of people are assembled, 
either in health or sickness, the walls become in- 
sensibly impregnated with infectious exhalations. 
Currents of air, wiien admitted, sweep and cleanse 
the atmosphere, but do not carry away tlie mias- 
mata concealed in the porosity of the walls, whicli 
retain the infectious humidity of the perspiration 
of bodies, gradually condensing on their surface. 
Quick lime may be substituted to destroy such 
mephitism of Malls, and also to prevent the evil 
The most infected tans and sieveb lose their smell. 



242 



UXI^TERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



when mixed with the whiting or size of lime. 
Lime enters white-washing, ar..i may become tlie 
principal substance of it, by substituting it for 
Spanish wliite. When made the principal ingre- 
dient of white-washing, it will prevent walls from 
being impregnated witii infectious miasmata. The 
addition of milk and oil are requisite, for lime has 
no adliesion on walls, nor can a t)ody or substance 
be given to the layer. The slightest rubbing with 
a pencil brush will rub it ofi', and leave the wall 
naked. The cheesy part of the milk, with the ad- 
dition of oil, which'makes a soapy body with lime, 
form, after tiie evaporation of the fmmidity, a dense 
coherent layer, or sort of varnished plaster, wliicii 
overcomes the porosity of stone, ])lastei', brick, 
and wood. This wash has another advantage, that 
of checking the nitrification of walls, which the 
painting of tliem in water colours lias a tendency 
to accelerate. 

To disinfect letters. 
The best method of disinfecting letters, and 
other articles coming from places that are supposed 
to be visited by the plague, is to expose them to 
the fumes of burning sulphur, mixed with salt- 
petre. 



CArnoxs to glaziers, painters, and plumbers. 

The following medical cautions were recom- 
mended by the physicians and surgeons of the Bath 
Hospital, to those who have received benefit by the 
use of the Bath waters, in cases where the poison 
of lead is concerned, as plumbers, glaziers, paint- 
ers, and otiier artificers, who work, in trades which 
expose them to similar, hazards, from the same 
cause; to be observed by them at their return to 
the exercise of their former occupation. 

1. To maintain the strictest temperance, Y)arti- 
cularly respecting distilled spirits, which had bet- 
ter be altogether forborne. 

2. To pay the sti-ictest attention to cleanliness; 
and never suffer paint to stick about to daub their 
Jiands: and particularly never to eat their meals, 
cr go to rest, without washing their hands and face 
with soap, perfectly clean. 

3. Not to eat or drink in the room or place 
■wherein they work; and much less to sutler any 
food or drink to remain unused, even for the short- 
est space of time, in any pan of a room while 
painting, or where colour stands; and not to work 
on an empty stomach. 

4. As the clothes of persons in this line (paint- 
ers, particularly) are generally much soiletl with 
colour, it is i-ecommended for them to perform 
their works in frocks of ticking, which may be fre- 
quently washed, and conveniently laid aside wlien 
the workmen go to their meals, and again put on 
when they resume their work. 

5. Every business which can, in these branches, 
should be performed with gloves on their hands; 
painters, in performing clean light work, would 
find gloves an inconvenience; but to avoid the evil 
hei-e mentioned, the handle of the brush should be 
often scraped. Woollen or worsted gloves are i-e- 
commended, as they may, and should be often 
washed, after being soiled with the paint, or even 
with much i-ubbing against the metal. 

C. Caution is necessary in mixing, or even in 
unpacking, the dry colours, that the fine powder 
do not get into their mouths, or be drawn in by the 
breath. A crape covering ovw the face' might be 
of service; but care sliould be taken to turn always 
the same side of the crape towards the ftice, and to 
clean or wasii it frei^uen Jy. 

7. All artificers sliouhl avoid touching lead when 
not; aad tliis caution is especially necessary for 



printers on compositors, who have often lost the 
use of their limbs Ijy handling the types, wlien 
diying by the fire after being washed. 

8. Glaziers' putty should never be made or 
moulded by the liand. An iron pestle and mortar 
would work the ingredients together, at least equal- ■ 
ly as well, and without hazard. It is necessary in 
working putty to handle it, nor is it usually per- 
nicious; cleanliness is therefore the best recom- 
mendation. 

9. If any persons, in any of the above employ- 
ments, should feel pain in the bowels, with cos- 
liveness, they should immediately take 20 drops of 
laudanum, and when the pain is abated, two table- 
spoonsful of castor oil, or an ounce of the bitter 
purging salt, dissolved in warm chamomile tea. 
if this does not succeed, a pint, or two pints, of 
warm soap-suds, should be thrown up as a clys- 
ter. 

10. As a preventive, two or three spoonsful of 
salad oil, taken in a small cup of gruel, is likely 
to be of service, if taken daily, and steadily pur- 
sued. 



DISEASES PECULIAR TO FEXALES. 

Hysteric Jits. 

This complaint, called also the hysteric passion, 
appears under various shapes, and is often owing 
to a lax tender habit, obstruction of the menses, 
iluor albus, Sec. 

In the fit, the patient is seized with an oppres- 
sion in the breast, and difficult respiration, acoom- 
pani(jd with a sense of something like a ball as- 
cending into the throat, wliich puts her under great 
a|)prehensions of being suftbcated; there is a loss 
of speech, and generally violent convulsive mo- 
tions. These, with a train of hypochondriac symp- 
toms, are sufficient to determine tlie disease; to 
which may be added, frequent laughing and cry- 
ing, and various wild irregidar actions: after wliich 
a general soreness over all tiie body is felt; the 
spirits are low; tlie feet are cold. The urine is 
clear and limpid, and discliarged in great quantity. 
The hysteric fit may be easily distinguished front 
fainting; for in this the pulse and respiration are 
entirely slopped; in that they are both perceivable. 
Cure and prevention. 

Nothing recovers a person sooner out of the hys- 
teric fit, than putting the feet and legs in warm 
water. 

When low spirits proceed from a suppression of 
the piles or the menses, these evacuations must be 
encouraged, or repeated bleedings substituted. 
When they take their origin from long continued 
grief, anxious thoughts, or other distresses of mind, 
nothing has done more service, in these cases, thaa 
agreeable company, daily exercise, and especially 
long journeys, and a variety of amusements. 

iiejimen. — A light animal food, red wine, cheer- 
ful company, and a good clear air, witii moderate 
exercise, are of great importance in this disorder. 
Drinking tea, and such like tepid relaxing iluids, 
should by no means be indulged. 

The cure consists in whatever tends to strength- 
en tlie solids, and the whole habit in genera}; and 
nothing will efiect tliis more succesbiully than n 
long-continued use of tlie mineral chalybeate wa- 
ters, and wding on horseback. 

Anti-hysteric spirits. 

Take of proof spirit, I pint, sal ammoniac, 2 
ounces, assafffitida, G drachms, potash, 3 ounces. 
Mix them, and draw off, by diatillation, 1 pint, 
witii a slow fire. 

The spirit is pale when newly distilled, but ac- 
quires a considerable tinge by keeping. I'he dose 



IVIEDICINE. 



243 



I's a tea-spoonful in some water, during hysterics, 
and the same to he taken occasionally. 
Anti-hysteric pills. 

Take of compound j)ills of gall)an\mi, 2 drachms, 
rust of iron, 4 scruples, syrup of ginger, as much 
as is sufficient. Form a mass, which is to be made 
into 40 pills, of H'hicli take 4 at noon, and at seven 
in the evening, every day, drinking after tliem half 
a glass of port-wine. These pills are excellent in 
hysteric affections. 

Fxtiil enema. 

This is made by adding to the ingredients of the 
common clyster, 'idraciims of the tincture of assa- 
fcEtida. 

In cases of hysterics and convulsions, the fetid 
enema is of singular use. 

Opiate ih-aii^ht. 

Mix together, cinnamon water, one ounce, spirit 
of caraways, half an ounce, sulphuric ether, half a 
drachm, tincture of castor, do. Let liiis draught 
be taken every six hours, if the stomacli sliould be 
affected hy cramp. U the feet are cohl, bfittles 
tilled with warm water sliould be applied to them. 
Tunic fur debility in females. 

Take of soft extract of bark, '2 draclims, colum- 
bo, rust of iron, each 1 do. simple syrup, as much 
as is sufficient. Make into 50 pills'; take 2, and 
gradually increase to 5, three times a day. 
Compoitnd galbamtm pills. 

Take of galbanum, opopanax, myrrh, sagape- 
num, each one ounce, assafojtida, half an ounce, 
syrup of saffron, as much as is sufficient. Beat 
them togetiier. These pills are excellent as anti- 
hysterics, and emmenagogues: half a scruple, or 
more, may be taken every night, or oftener. 
Compound spirit of lavender. 

Take of spirit of lavender, three pounds, spirit 
of rosemary, one pound, cinnamon, half an ounce, 
nutmeg, the same, red saiiders, three drachms. 
Digest for ten days, and then strain off. This is 
often taken upon sugar, and is a salutary cordial, 
far preferable to drams, w hich are tou often had re- 
course to by persons feeling a great sinking or de- 
pression of tiie spirits. 

, Infusion of senna, -Mth tamarinds. 

Add to liie infusion of senna, before it be strain- 
ed, an ounce of tamarinds; then strain. Tliis forms 
a mild and useful purge, excellently suited for deli- 
cate stomachs, and inflammatory diseases. The 
taste of the senna is well covered by the aromatic 
sugar, and by the acidity of tlie tamai-inds. An 
ounce is a convenient purge. 

,Wld purgative. 

Take of manna, 2 oz. tamarinds, 1 oz. rose wa- 
ter, 1 oz. Uoil the rose water and tamarinds to- 
gether for a quarter of an hour, th°n add the man- 
na. Three table-spoonsful to be taken every 3 
hours, until a motion is obtained. Less is to be 
given to a child. 

Fluor albus, or -whites. 

The fluor albus is a flux of thin matter, of ap^l- 
lucid or wiiite colour; sometimes it is greenish or 
yellow, sharp and corroding, often foul and fcetid; 
especially if it be of any long standing. 

Tedious labours, frequent miscarriages, immo- 
derate llowings of the menses, profuse evacuations, 
l)00r diet, an inactive and sedentary life, are the 
causes which generally produce this disease. 
Jieffirnen, lie. 

The diet should be nourishing: milk with isin- 
glass boiled in it, jellies, sago, broths, and light 
meals, red port wine in moderation, chalybeate 
waters, moderate exercise, and fre(iuent ablution 
of the parts should be recommended. A standing 
[)0Siure of body long continued, violent dancing, 
or much walking;, must be forbidden. 



Astringent injection. 
To restore tone to the parts, it will be necessary 
three or four times a day, to inject a portion of 
the following mixture, by means of a syringe. 

Hub togeliicr in a mortar, white vitriol, 1 drachm, 
sugar of lead, 10 grains, water, 2 drachms. Mix 
the whole with a pint of distilled watei'. 

Another. — Mix together I drachm of powdered 
alum, with 1 pint of decoction of oak-bark. Inject 
as above. 

Tonic and astringent pills. 
Take of gum kino, and extract of Peruvian 
bark, each, 1 <h-achm, grated nutmeg, t scruple, 
l)Owdered alum, J drachm, syrup, in sufficiency to 
form a mas,s, wiifch is to be divided into 36 p'ills. 
Three of these ai'e to be taken at eleven, forenoon, 
and five in the afternoon; being taken two hours 
'bjfore diimer, three hours afterwards washed 
down by a glassful of good port wine. Recourse 
maj- at the same time be had to tincture of Pei-u- 
vian bark, to preparations of steel, and mineral 
waters. 

Prevention. — Females afilicled with this disor- 
der sliould by no means ini^lidge in the too free use 
of tea, or other warm slops of a relaxing nature. 
They should sleep on a matrass, rise early, and 
take such exercise as may be convenient, and, if 
possible, on horseback. Cold bathing should also 
be used as often as convenient. In winter a flannel 
shift ought to be worn. 

Immoderate flow of the menses. 
When the menses contiime too long, or come on 
too frequently for the strength of the patient, they 
are said to be immoderate, and are genei'ally occa- 
sioned by weak vessels, thin blood, or a plethoric 
habit. This often happens in delicate women, who 
use enervating liquid^ too freely, especially tea. It 
also arises in consequence of abortions, and some- 
times attends women who are obliged to work 
hard. 

Venesection may he resorted to, when the pa- 
tient is of a full and robust habit; and, where the 
hajmorrhage is excessive, opiates are of great use. 
Astringent fumeniution». 
Astringent fomentations may often be veiT pro- 
perly prescribed. Cloths dipped in decoction of 
oak or Peruvian bark, with the addition of a small 
quantity of brandy, or red wine and vinegar, will 
answer the purpose extremely well. 
Astringent injection. 
Where the haemorrhage is profuse, and resists 
the usual means now recommended, it will be ne- 
cessary to throw up the following astringent injec- 
tion into the uterus from time to time. Take of 
decoction of bark, 1 pint, alum in powder, 3 drs. 
Mix, ^id use as an injection, three times if ne- 
cessary. 

Regimen, &c. — To confirm the cure, and pre- 
vent a relapse, the body should be strengthened by 
proper exercise, mineral waters, a light but nour- 
ishing diet; such as light broths, red port wine in 
moderation, and an easy cheerful mind. 

When an immoderate flux of the menses, or 
floodings after abortion, is either attended with or 
preceded by acute pain, not inflammatory, in the 
lower part of tiie back or belly, and returns with 
greater violence, as the discharge comes on, opiuia 
will, in such a case, answer better tlian astringents, 
and may be given in clysters, composed of 3 oz. of 
infusion of roses, with a drachm of laudanum. 
Green sickness. 
This disease is commonly attended with pletho- 
ra, listlessness to motion, a heaviness, paleness of 
complexion, and pain in the back and loins, also 
hxmorrhages at the nose, \iains in the head, with 
a great sense of weight across the eyes, loathing 



244 



UNIVERSAL, RECEIPT BOOK. 



of food, a quick and weak pulsp, ftuor albus, hec- 
tic lieats, coup;lis, and liysteric fits. 

Tiiere is oiteii indigusUou and costiveness, with 
a preternatural appetite for chalk, lime, and other 
absorbents. 

Jiegimen, &c. — Tiie diet ought to be nutritive 
and generous, with a moderate use of wine. Exer- 
cise ought also to be daily used, and jiarticularly 
on horseback. The mind should likewise be kept 
amused by associating with agreeable company. 
Chalybeate pills. 

Mix together extract of bai'k, and sulphate of 
iron (green vitriol), each 1 scruple; sub-carbonate 
of soda, 15 grains; powdered myrrh, 30 grains. 
Add syrup of ginger to form the whole into a mass, 
■which divide into 34 pills. After the stomach has 
been cleansed by a gentle emetic, two of these 
are taken two or three times a day, taking care to 
wash tiietn down with nearly a wine-glassful of the 
following 

Tonic draught. 

INIix together compound tincture of Peruvian 
bark, and compound tincture of cardamoms, each, 
1 oz.; compound infusion of gentian, 1 pint. 
Chalybeate draught. 

Pour 15 drops of tincture of muriate of iron into 
a glassful of cold water, or a decoction of Peru- 
vian bark. Urink this twice or thrice a day, an 
hour before, or two hours after eating. 
Tincture of iodine. 

In many cases of green sickness, attended with 
symptoms of approaching consumption, and also 
in incipient phthisis, the saturated tincture of 
iodine may be administered witli great effect. 

When taken internally, it is very beneficial in 
dispersing wen. Ten drops of the saturated tinc- 
ture, taken three times a day, will efl'ectually re- 
move the complaint, in the course of , five or six 
veeks. 

Cessation of the menses. 

The constitution undergoes a very considerable 
change at the critical period when menstruation 
ceases; and it often happens that chronic, and 
Eometimes fatal complaints arise, if care is not 
taken when this natural discharge terminates. It 
seldom stops all at once, but graduallj' ceases, 
being irregular both as to quantity and time. 

Regimen, &c. — When the disappearance is sud- 
den, in females of a plethoric habit, malt liquors, 
■wine, and animal food, ougiit, for a time, to be ex- 
cluded from their diet. They should likewise 
avoid all liq\iors of a spirituous nature. Regular 
exercise shoidd be taken, and the body constantly 
kept open by the tincture of senna, Epsom salts, or 
any other mild laxative medicine. 

If giddiness, and occasional pains in th8 head, 
affect the patient, or if there be a visible fulness in 
the vessels, the application of leeches to the tem- 
ple, will be found very beneficial; and if ulcers 
should break out in the legs, &c. they ought by no 
means to be healed up, unless a salutary drain, by 
means of an issue, be established in some other pai-t. 
Ttropsy. 

Dissolve an ounce of saltpetre in a pint of cold 
water; take a wine'-glassful every morning and 
evening; 6 oz» will perfect tlie cure iu about six 
■weeks. 

For votmting ditrinff pregnancy. 

The moi-ning sickness is one of the most painful 
feelings attendant on the pregnant state; and it is 
one of those which medicine commonly fails to re- 
lieve* A cup of chamomile, or peppermint tea, 
taken when first waking, and suffering the patient 
to he still for an hour, will sometimes alleviate the 
distressing sickness: but should it recur diu-ing 
Xhe day, these means seldom succeed. 

Two or three spoonsful of the following mixturo 



sliould then be taken, either oocasionally or when 
the vomiting and heartbui'n are more continual, 
immediately after every meal: — Take of calcined 
magnesia, 1 dr.; distilled water, 6 oz. ; aromatic 
tincture of rhatanv, C dr.; water, pure ammonia, 
1 dr. Mix. 

Another. — Dr Scellier extols the following mix- 
ture as a remedy for nausea and vomiting, during 
the period of pregnancy. I'ake of lettuce-water, 
4 oz.; gum arabic, 1 scruple; syrup of white pop- 
pies, syrup of marsh-meadow root, each, 2oz.; 
Prussic acid, 4 droi)S. Let an apothecary prepai'e 
tlie mixture. A table-spoonful is to be taken every 
half hour when the vomiting is present. 

If the lettuce-water cannot be obtained, 8 grains 
of the inspissated white juice (lactuarium), dis- 
solved in 4 oz. of water, may be substituted for it 
Another, — The saline mixture, in a slate of efl:er- 
vescence, with a pill of one or two grains of lactua- 
rium, is by some preferred to the above composi- 
tion. When the matter brought up is acid, a weak 
solution of the carbonate of soda may be substituted 
for the saline mixture. 

To relieve sickness and qualms in pregnancy. 
Take of infusion of quassia, 1 oz.; cinnamon wa- 
ter, 4, dr.; compound spirit of ammonia, 20 drops; 
prepared oyster shells, £ gr. Make into a fraught, 
to be taken at twelve and seven o'clock every day. 
For heartburn dnring pregnancy. 
Take of solution of ammonia, calcined magnesia, 
each, 1 dr.; cinnamon water, 2 oz.; common wa- 
ter, 6 oz. The dose is a table-spoonful as often as 
required. 

Head-ache. 
When head-ache or drowsiness prove trouble- 
some to a pregnant woman of robust habit, a few 
ounces of blood should be taken from the arm. If 
she be of a weak or irritable habit, leeches ought 
to be applied to tiie temples. In both cases; the 
bowels siiould be opened by Epsom salts, or some 
other gentle laxative medicine. 
Hysteria. 
When hysteria, or fainting occurs, the pregnant 
patient should be placed in a horizontal position in 
the 0[)en air. When she is a little recovered, a 
glass of wine in a little cold water sliould be ad- 
ministered, or, what is pei-haps better, a few drops 
of tlie spirit of hartshorn in a glass of water. 
Costiveness and piles. 
To prevent these, women in a pregnant state 
should make fi-equent use of the following elec- 
tuary: 

Mix together in a marble mortar, 2 ounces of 
the electuaiy of senna, half a drachm of powder of 
jalap, two drachms of cream of tartar, and half an 
ounce of syrup of roses. Haifa tea-spoonful to be 
taken every night at bed-time, or oftener, as long 
as the above complaints continue. 

Pregnant women should be particularly careful 
not to use aloes as a purgative, this medickie being 
very apt to increase the piles. The same caution i a 
necessai-y with respect to Anderson's and Scott's 
pills, the basis of both which is aloes. If the piles 
should prove so very troublesome as to prevent the 
patient from sitting comfortably, leeches ought to 
be applied to the part; in all other cases, simple 
ablution with cold water, with the use of purg-a- 
tives as above directed, will be sufficient. 
Troublesome itchings. 
Cooling laxatives are likewise proper in this 
place; also frequent ablution with cold or luke- 
warm water. If the itching does not speedily 
abate, a lotion is to be applied to the parts, twice 
a day, consisting of a drachm of sugar of lead in a 
pint of distilled water. 

Sweliings of the feet and ancles. 
Pregnant womeu lu-e usually free from this com* 



MEDICIXE. 



245 



jrlaint in the morning; but suffer a good deal from 
It towards niglu. 

Prevention. — In the commencement it will be 
merely requisite for the patient to use a foot-stool, 
■when sitting, so tliat her feet maj' never be in a 
hanging position for any lengtli of time. 

Remedij. — If there should be great distention, so 
as to give the sensation of almost bursting, slight 
scarification ought to be made with the edge of a 
lancet; and flannels, wrung out of a hot fomentation 
of chamomile, are soon after to be applied. It is 
almost uunecessary to state, that this complaint in- 
variably disappears at the period of delivery. 
Cramp of the legs anil tliighs. 

This complaint may be speedily relieved by rub- 
bing the part affected with the following liniment: 
Mix tqgetiier, (by shaking in a phial) laudanum, ^ 
an oz.; tincture of camphor, 1 oz.; and sulphuric 
ether, ^ an oz. 

Cramp in the stomach. 

This is to be avoided hy proper attention to diet, 
■which should not be of a flatulent nature, or too 
)»ard of digestion. Attention is likewise to be paid 
to the state of tlie bowels. 

Distention and cracking of the skin. 

This is very apt to occur in tlie latter months of 
gestation, accompanied sometimes with considera- 
ble soreness. It is to be relieved by frequent fric- 
tion with warm oil. 

Distention of veins. 

The veins of the legs, thighs, and belly, are apt 
to become enlarged in the "latter stages of preg- 
nancy. Although no bad consequence ever attends 
this, it will be necessary sometimes to relieve it by 
moderate bleeding, and by repeated small doses of 
infusion of senna, mixed with Epsom salts; at the 
same time using a spare diet. The distended 
vein may frequently be relieved by the application 
of a pretty tight bandage. 

Incontinency of urine. 

This very uncomfortable complaint is to be re- 
lieved by a frequent horizontal position, but cannot 
be entirely remedied but by delivery. Strict 
attention, however, ought to be paid to cleanliness, 
and much comfort will be felt by the use of a large 
sponge properly fastened. 

Restlessness and -.uant of sleep. 

In this case, cooling laxative medicines, as the 
i-nfusion of senna, with Epsom salts, ought fre- 
<iuently to be used. If relief be not soon obtained, 
■small quantities of blood are to be taken from the 
patient. Opiates ought never to be used, as they 
tend only to increase the febrile stale of the 
patient. • 

Convulsions. 

When a female is disposed to this complaint 
from a plethoric habit, liiere will be great fulness 
and giddiness in the head, in the latter months of 
gestation; also drowsiness, with a sensation of 
weight in the forehead when she stoops, or bends 
forward, accompanied sometimes by imperlcct 
vision, and the appearance of atoms floating before 
the eyes. In such a case, 10 or 12 oz. of blood 
ought to be taken from tiie arm, and the bowels 
are afterwards to be kept open by frequent and 
small doses of infusion of senna, mixed with Ep- 
som salts, until the above symptoms entirely dis- 
appear. Wine, spirituous and malt liquors, and 
solid, or animal food, are likewise to be avoided. 

When convulsions have occurred, and when 
there is reason to believe that they are owing to 
irritation, rather than plethora, it will likewise be 
necessary to bleed tlie patient in a small degree, 
both from the arm, and by the application of 
leeches to the temples. The bowels are also .to 
be kept perfectly open, and a common clyster, 
containing from half a drachm to a drachm of 



laudanum, is to be administered. The warm bath 
is likewise exceedingly useful; at the same time 
taking care to strengthen the habit as much as 
possible. 

The viilk fever. 

This fever generally arises about the (bird or 
fourth da)' after deliveiy. The sj'inptoms are pain 
and distention of the breasts, shooting frequently 
towards the arm-pit. Sometimes the breasts be- 
come hard, hot, and inflamed. It generally con- 
tinues a day or two, and ends spontaneously by 
copious sweats, or a large quantity of pale urine. 
Remedies. 

If it should prove violent, especially in young 
women of a plethoric constitution, we shovdd abate 
the inflammation by bleeding; this, however, is 
rarely necessarj'. But, in every constitution, the 
body must be kept open by gentle cooling laxatives, 
or clysters. Tiie breasts should be often drawn 
eidier by the child, or, if the mother does not de- 
sign to give suck, by some proper person. If tlie 
breasts are hard, verj' turgid, or inflamed, emol- 
lient fomentations ought to be applied to them. 
The common poultice of bread and milk, with tiie 
addition of a little oil, may be used on this occa- 
sion; and warm milk, or a decoction of elder- 
flowers, for a fomentation. 

Regimen. 

Tlie patient should use a thin, slender diet, con- 
sisting only of panada, or some other farinaceous 
substances. Her drink may be barley-water, mills 
and water, weak tea, or the like. 
Inflamed breasts. 

When the breasts tumefy, and begin to be un- 
easy, a few days after delivery, from the milk stag- 
nating, gentle diaphoretics, and purgatives are to 
be used, and camphorated spirit of wine is to be 
applied, or warm clothes, dipt in brandy, are to be 
put to the arm pits. Should pain with inflamma- 
tion come on, apply a poultice of bread, milk, and 
oil, and an emollient fomentation; and in case suj)- 
puration cannot be prevented, it must be treated 
accordingly. But, in general, it is much better to 
let the tumour break of itself, than to open it. The 
ulcer is afterwards to be treated according to the 
common rules for disorders of that kind. 

If there be only a hardness in the breast, from 
coagulated milk, emollient cataplasms and fomen- 
tations are to be used, likewise fresh linseed oil, 
by way of liniment. 

Sore nipples. 

Chajiped or sore nipples are very frequent with 
those who give suck. In this case the olive oil is 
a very proper application; or fresh cream spread 
upon fine linen; or a solution of gum arabic in 
water. 

It is almost needless to observe, that, whatever 
applications be made use of to the nipples, they 
ought always to be washed off before the child is 
permitted to suck. 

Puerperal fever. 

Puerperal fever commonly begins with a rigor, 
or chilliness, on the first, second, or third day after 
delivery; followed by a violent jiain and soreness 
over tiie belly. There is much thirst; pain in the 
head, chiefly in the forehead, and parts about the 
eyebrows; a flushing in the face; anxiety; a hot dry 
skin; quick and weak pulse, though sametimes it 
will resist the finger pretty strongly; a siiortness in 
breathing; high-coloured urine, and a suppression 
of tiie natural discharge. Sometimes a vomiting 
and purging attend from the first, but in gene- 
ral, in the beginning, the belly is costive: however, 
when the disease proves fatal, a diarrhffia generally 
supervenes, and the stools at last become involun- 
tary. 

The cause of this fever has been commonly 

K2 



246 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



ascribed eitlier to a suppression of the natural dis- 
charge, an inflammation in the womb, or a reten- 
tion of the milli. 

liemedles. 

If tlie belly be costive, an emollient opening 
clyster is to lie administered; and, if stools and an 
abatement of the pain be not procured thereby, 
* immediate recourse is to be had to catiiartics, and 
repeated bleeding from the arm. Those to be re- 
commended are, Epsom salts and infusion of sen- 
na, or castor-oil; either, in sufficient quantity. 

After the intestinal canal is sufficientl)'^ cleared, 
and the pain abates, a gentle diaphoresis is to be 
encouraged by such medicines as neither bind the 
body, nor are heating. This intention is best 
answered by small doses of ipecacuanlia, tartar 
emetic, or antimonial wine, combined with a few 
drops of laudanum, and given about once or twice 
in ilie course of the twenty-four hours. In the 
intermediate spaces of time, interpose saline 
draughts. 

liegimen. 

The patient's drink sliould consist of pure water 
■with a toast in it; barley water, either by itself, or 
■with the addition of a little nitre; wiiey made with 
rennet or vinegar; milk and water; lemonade; a 
slight infusion of malt; and mint or sage tea. 



MASAGEMElfT AND ■DISEASES OF CHILDHEX. 



Infant tmrsing, 

A child, when it cornes into the world, should 
bedaid (for the first month) upon a thin mattrass, 
rather longer that itself, which the nurse may 
sometimes keep upon her lap, that the child may 
always lie straigiit, and only sit up as the nurse 
slants the mattrass. To set a child quite upright 
before the end of the first month, is hurtful. Af- 
terwards, the nurse may begin to set it up and 
dance it by degrees: and it must be kept as dry as 
possible. 

Fnction. 

The clothing should be very light, and not much 
longer than the ciiih}, that tl\e legs may be got at 
■with ease, in order to have them often rubbed in 
llie day with a warm liand or flannel, and in par- 
ticular the inside of them. Rubbing a child all 
over, takes otf scurf, and makes the blood cir- 
culate. 

Rubbing the ankle-bones and inside of the knees 
■will strengthen those parts, and make the child 
stretch its knees, and keep them flat. 
Position. 

A nurse ought to keep a child as little in her 
arms as possible, lest the legs should be cramped, 
and the toes turned inwards. Let her always keep 
tlie child's legs loose. The oftener the posture is 
changed, the better. 

Exercise. 

By slo'w degrees the infant should be accustomed 
to exercise, both witliin doors and in the open air; 
btit he never should be moved about immediately 
after sucking or feeding: it will be apt to sicken 
him. Exercise should be given by carrying him 
about and gently dandling him in his mother or 
nurse's arms; but dancing him up and down on tlie 
knee is very fatiguing for a young child. 
To prevent distortion. 

Tossing a child about, and exercising it in the 
open air in fine weatlier, is of the greatest service. 
In cities, children are not to be kept in hot rooms, 
but to have as much air as possible. Want of ex- 
ercise is the cause of rickets, large heads, weak 
joints, a contracted breast, and oiseased lungs, be- 
sides a numerous train of other evils. 



/tendering children hardy. 

Endeavour to harden the body, but without re- 
sorting to any violent means. All attempts to ren- 
der children hardy, must he made by gradual 
steps. Nature admits of no sudden traTisitions. 
For instance, infants sliould, by imperceptible de- 
grees, be inured to the cool, and then to the cold 
bath; at the same time, attention must be paid to 
their previous management. If they have hitherto 
been accustomed to an efteminating treatment, and 
should be suddenly subjected to an ojiposite ex- 
treme, such a change would be attended with dan- 
ger. When children have once been accustomed 
to a hardy system of education, such a plan must 
be strictly adiiered to. 

Cleanli)iess and bathing. 

The child's skin is to be kept perfcctlj' clean by 
washing its limbs morning and evening, and like- 
wise its neck and ears; hegi^ining with warm wa- 
ter, till by degrees he will not only bear, but like 
to be washed with cold. 

After he is a montli old, if he has no cough, fe- 
ver, nor eruption, the bath should be colder and 
colder, (if the season is mild), and gradually it 
may be used as it comes from the fountain. After 
carefully drying the whole body, head and limbs, 
another dry soft cloth, a little warmed, should be 
used gently, to take all the damp from the wrinkles 
or fat parts that fold together. Then rub the limbs; 
but when the body is rubbed, take special care not 
to press upon the stomach or belly. On these 
parts the hand should move in /i circle, because 
the bowels lie in that direction. If the skin is 
chafed, hair-powder is to be used. The utmost 
tenderness is necessary in drying the head, and no 
binding should be made close about it. Squeezing 
the head, or combing it roughly, may calise dread- 
ful diseases, and even the loss of reason. A small 
soft l)rush, liglitly applied, is safer than a comb. 
Clean clothes every morning and evening will tend 
greatly to a child's health and comfort. 
Dress. 

With regard to the child's dress in the day, let 
it be a shirt, a petticoat of fine flannel, two or three 
inches longer than the child's feet, with a dimity 
top (commonly called a bodice-coat), to tie behind. 
Over this put a robe or frock, or whatever may 
be convenient, provided it is fastened behind, 
and not much longer than the child's feet, that his 
motions may be striutly observed. 

Caps may be worn till the hair is sufiiciently 
grown, but by no means till the child has got most 
of its teeth. 

The dress for the night may be a shirt, a blan- 
ket to tie on, and a thin gown to tie over the 
blanket. 

The act of dressmg. 

Some people in dressing an infant, seem in such 
haste as to toss him in a way that must fatigue and 
harass him. The most tender delilieration should 
he observed. In addition tothis hurried dressing, 
his clothes are often so tight that he frets and roars. 
Pins should never be used in an infant's clothes; 
and every string should be so loosely tied that one 
might get two fingers between it and the part where 
it is fixed. Bandages round the head should be 
strictly forbidden. Many instances of idiotism, 
fits, and deformity, are owing to tight bandages. 
Sleep. 

Infants cannot sleep too long: and it is a favoura- 
ble symptom, when they enjoy a calm and long- 
continued rest, of which they should by no means 
be deprived, as this is the greatest support granted 
to them by nature. A child lives comparatively 
much laster tlian an adult; its blood flows more 
rapidly; and every stimultis operates more power* 



MEDICINE. 



247 



fully. Sleep promotes a more calm and uniform 
circulation of the blood, and it facilitates assimi- 
lation of tlie nutriment received. The horizontal 
posture, likewise, is the most favourable to the 
growth and bodily development of the infant. 
Duration of, and time for sleep. 
Sleep ougiit to be in proportion to the age of the 
infant. After an uninterrupted rest of nine months 
in the womb, this salutary refreshment should 
continue to till up the greater part of a cliild's ex- 
istence. A continued watclifulness of twenty-four 
hours would prove destructive. After the age of 
six niontlis, the periods of sleep, as well as all 
other animal functions, may in some degree be 
regulated; yet, even then, aciiild siiould be suffer- 
ed to sleep the whole night, and several hours both 
in the moraing and afternoon. Mothers and 
nurses should endeavour to accustom infants from 
the time of tiieir birth, to sleep in the night pre- 
ferably to the day, and for this purpose they ought 
to remove all external impressions which may dis- 
turb their rest, sucii as noise, light, &c. but espe- 
cially net to obey every call for taking them up, 
and giving food at improper times. After the se- 
cond year of their age, they will not instinctively 
require to sleep in the forenoon, though after 
dinner it may be continued till the tliird and 
fourth year of life, if the child shows a, particular 
inclination to repose; because till that age, the full 
half of its time may safely be allotted to sleep. 
From that period, however, it ought to be shorten- 
ed for the space of one hour with every succeeding 
year; so that a child of seven years old may sleep 
about eight, and not exceeding nine hours; this 
proportion may be continued to tiie age of ado- 
lescence, and even manhood. 

Aioaking sHckknli/. 
To awaken children from their sleep "with a 
noise, or in an impetuous manner, is extremely in- 
judicious and hurtful, nor is it proper to carry them 
from a dark room immediately into a glaring light, 
against a dazzling wall; for the sudden impres- 
sion of liglit debilitates the organs of vision, and 
lays the foundation of weak eyes, from eai-ly in- 
fancy. 

Jiestlessness at night. 
An infant is sometimes very restless at night, and 
it is generally owing either to cramming him with 
a heavy supper, tight nigiit clothes, or being over- 
heated by too many blankets. It may also pi-oceed 
from putting him to sleep too early. He should 
be kept awake till the family are going to rest, and 
the house free from noise. Undressing and bathing 
•* ill wearj' and dispose him for sleep, and the uni- 
versal stillness will promote it. This habit and all 
otliers depend on attention at first. Accustom him 
to regular hours, and if he has a good sleep in the 
forenoon a.ul afternoon, it will be easy to keep 
him brisk all the evening. It is right to offer him 
drink when a young infant; and more solid, though 
simple food, when he is going to bed, after he is 
two or three months old, but do not force him to 
receive it; and never let any thing but the pre- 
scription of a physician in sickness, tempt the 
nurses to give him vi'ine, spirits, or any drug to 
ruake him sleep. ISlilk and water, whey, or thin 
gruel, is the only fit liquor for little ones, even 
when they can run about. The more simple and 
ligiit tlieir diet and drink, the more they will 
thrive. Such food will keep the body regular, and 
they cannot be long well if that essential pomt is 
neglected. 

Aimisemenls, &c. 

The bodily education of boys and girls ought in 

every respect to be uniform. A great difference 

usually prevails in the education of both sexes dur- 

intj infancy. Parents, being too anxious for the 



I accomplishment of girls, imagine that they must 
I be kept under a certain restraint. Boys, in gene- 
ral, are not laced, but poor gii-ls are compressed 
tiglit enough to suffocate them; because it is erro- 
neously supposed, tliat this injudicious practice 
contributes to an elegant shape, though, ultimate- 
ly, the contrarj' effect is obvious; as it is the surest 
way of making children round shouldered and 
deformed. Girls are, from their cradles, com- 
pelled to a more sedentary life; and, with this 
intention, dolls, and other play things, are early 
procured: yet boys are permitted to take more 
frequent exercise. Thus, girls are confined in 
their apartments, while boys amuse themselves in 
tile opLu air. Such al^surd constraints impede the 
free and progressive evolution of the different 
faculties inherent in the liuman mind. 
T/w yelloxa gum. 

The yellow gum is known by a yellow tinge of 
the skin, with languor and a tendency to sleep. It 
is to be relieved by giving a tea-spoonful or more 
of castor oil, to clear the intestines. When the 
disease does nqt give way to this treatment, 8 drops 
of antimonial wine are to be given in a tea-spoon- 
ful of water, so as to prove emetic. In about 
eight or ten hours, this is to be followed by half a 
grain of calomel, or 4 grains of rhubarb. 
Vomiting. 

When t!ie food is vomited in an unaltered state, 
it is generally a sign of over-feeding: but when the 
vomiting is bilious, or when the food is partly 
digested, the diet ought to be changed, and the 
bowels opened by 1 grain of calomel given in 
sugar. This is to be followed by a tea-spoonful of 
castor oil on the following morning. If the vom- 
iting should still continue, give a gentle emetic, 
and tlie calomel powder (containing 1 or 2 grains, 
according to the age) soon after. If there be much 
irritation, appfy a blister to the stomach; and, if 
possible, give a tea-spoonful of the saline medicine, 
in a state of effervescence, and containing 2 drops , 
of laudanum. 

Hiccups, 

These generally arise from acidity in the sto- 
mach, and may be remedied by the administration 
of 8 grains of prepared chalk, with 2 grains of 
powdered rhubarb, given in a little syrup or gruel, 
if very severe, the stomach is to be rubbed with a 
little soap liniment, or opodeldoc, to which a little 
laudanum has been added. , 

Griping and flatulency. 

These are known by continual crying, restless- 
ness, and drawing up of the legs. When attended 
by diarhcea and green stools, it is to be relieved, 
in general, by the administration of a few grains 
of rhubarb and magnesia. If sour belchings, Sec. 
still continue, it will be proper to give a tea-spoon- 
ful every quarter of an hour, of weak solution of 
tartar emetic, until the child vomits. After this, 
particularly if there be any purging, it will be pro- 
perto give a little rhubarb and magnesia again, 
and now and then a little chalk mixture. 
Msorbent mixture. 

If the pains are very great so as to make the 
'child scream violently, two tea-spoonsful of the 
following mixture, with 5 or 6 drops of laudanum, 
may be given directly: Mix together, prepared 
chalk, 1 scruple, tincture of caraway seeds, 3 dr. 
compound spirit of lavender, 1 do. and of pepper- 
mint water, 2 oz. 

As soon as there is diminution of pain, a purga- 
tive should be given, particularly if the bowels 
happen to be in a costive state. The best will be 
castor oil. The above mixture may afterwards be 
occasionally continued, but without the laudanum. 
Diarrhoea. 

This may, in general, if the stools are green, 



248 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



be relieved by a brisk purgative, of from 1 to 2 
grains of calomel, 'vvith 4 or 5 of rhubarb, accord- 
inw to the aj^e of the child. The absorbent mix- 
tore i3 then to be given as before directed, 
Fitrther remedies. 

When the stools are very frequent and are either 
slimy or tinged with blood, it will be proper to 
give's grains of rhubarb every 6 hours, the food 
being beef tea, sago, isinglass in milk or calf's 
foot jelly, the bodj' being wrapped in warm flannel. 
A small iilister may liliewise be applied to the bel- 
ly; and a dessert spoonful of the following tonic 
and astringent mixture is to be given eveiy six 
hours: Alix together, tincture of rind, 1 drachm, 
chalk mixture, 2 oz. laudanum, 12 drops, and cin- 
n'lmon water, 1 oz. 

Opiate clyster. 

If the fluid stools are ejected with great force a 
clyster should be given, composed of half a tea- 
ctipful of boiled starch, and 20 drops of laudanum. 
This may be repeated at an interval of 8 hours, i/ 
the symptoms do not abate. 

Excoriations of the skin. 

Children are apt to be chafed between the thighs, 
tehind the ears, and in the wrinkles of the neck, 
from Avant of proper attention to cleanliness. In 
sucli cases it will be necessary to bathe the parts 
twice a day, (or mnvy lime that the child's things 
are changed) with a little warm milk and water; 
and to applj' a puft' with a little hair powder im- 
mediately afterwards, so as to keep the parts dry. 
— When discharges take place behind the ears, 
they must not be dried up too suddenly, as such a 
circumstance might produce a diversion to the 
brain. In such cases it will be always best to give 
frequent doses of castor oil, or calomel, every 
night, in the proportion of 1 grain to 3 grains of 
rliubarb. 

Cutaneous eruptions. 

No real danger attends tliese eruptions, which 
are generally known by the names of red-gum, 
nettle-rash, 8cc. All that is required to be done 
is to keep the bowels open by such means as are 
prescribed in the foregoing article, and to guard 
against cold, w)\ich might drive the eruption in- 
wardly, and so produce internal inflammations of 
a critical nature. If the milk or food be consider- 
ed the cause, the nurse, or diet, ought to be chang- 
ed: and if sickness and vomiting should prevail, 
it will be projjer to give the absorbent mixture 
mentioned under tlie head Griping and Flatulency. 
I'he thrush. 

This disease makes its appearance by little ul- 
cerations in the mouth, tongue, ike. of a white 
colour, and sometimes of a yellow appearance. 
They are generally owing to acidities in tlie sto- 
mach, &c. 

In this disorder nothing avails more than an 
emetic at first, and then a little magnesia and rhu- 
barb, (if there is diarrhffia) with tliin cliicken- 
WHter as drink. Testaceous powders, or the ab- 
sorbent mixture (see Griping and Fmtulency), will 
also be proper. If there is no looseness, it will be 
proper to give a grain or two of calomel, vith 3 or 
4 grains of rhubarb. The mouth and throat should 
at the same time be cleansed by gargles, 
Syrnl) of black currants. 

Take of the juice of black currants, strained, 1 
pint, double refined sugar, 24 oz. Dissolve the 
sugar, and boil to make a syrup. 

A tea-spoonful of this to be given to children in 
the thrush. 

Falling dovin of the fundaynent. 

This happens frequently to children who cry 
r.iuch, or who have had a diarrhoea, or from strain- 
ing on going to stool. If it proceed from costive- 
ResSj give lenitive clysters. In case the gut be 



swelled or inflamed, foment with warm milk, or 
decoction of oak bark, or wash frequently with 
cold water. The protruded parts are now to be 
replaced by the finger, and supported by a truss or 
bandage. The internal use of tonics w ill be proper 
Dentition. 

When children are about cutting their teeth, 
they slaver much, are fevei'ish, hot, and uneasy; 
their gums swell, and are very painful: they are 
sometimes loose in tlie bowels, and at other times 
costive; now and then convidsions come on. 

Leeches are often of use applied behind the 
ears; also blisters. 

Scarifying the gums. 

Instead of giving narcotics to children cutting 
their teeth, it is strenuously recommended to have 
the tumid gums divided i)y a huicet down to the 
tooth; an operation at 'once safe and unattended 
I with pain. If done in time, by removing the cause 
of the comjjlaint, all the symptoms will disappear 
of themselves. Instead of giving preparations of 
opium, it will be found, in the majority of cases, 
far better to administer calomel, in minute doses, 
as this medicine is well known to possess peculiar 
efficacy in promoting absorption in these parts. 
The body, if costive, should be kept regularly 
open, and if there should be looseness of the bow- 
els, it should by no means be discouraged. Instead 
of coral or any other hard body, let the child nib- 
ble at a piece of wax caudle. 

Convulsions. 

Children are particularly liable to convulsions at 
the period of teething, small pox, measles, and 
other eruptive diseases; sometimes, also, from ex- 
ternal causes, such as strait clollies, bandages, bee. 
When tiiey proceed from any of these, balliing the 
feet, or the whole liody, in warm water, of 92 or 94 
degrees, and administering a mild clyster. Mill 
almost immediately relieve them. To shorten the 
duration of the fit, cold water should lie poiu'ed 
over the face and neck, whilst the rest of the body 
is in the bath. 

The return of convulsions is to be prevented 
only by llie removal of the cause of the existing ir- 
ritation; but, in general, iviien tlie body is kept 
carefully open, tiiere will he little cause to fear a 
leturn. 

Inward fits. 

In these fits the infant appears as if asleep, the 
eyelids, however, are not quite closed, but fre- 
quently twinkle, and show the whites turned up- 
wards. The muscles of the face are sometimes 
slightly distorted, the mouth having the appear- 
ance of a laugh or smile. The breath is sometimes 
very quick, and at oliiers stops for a time; whilst 
the eyelids and lips are jiale and dark alternately. 
The infant startles on the least noise, and sighs 
deeply or breaks wind. This relieves him for a 
little, but he soon relapses into a dose. Whenever 
the above mentioned symptoms are observed; it 
will be right to awaken tlie infant, by stirring or 
otherwise, and to rub its back and belly well be- 
fore the fire, u;itil wind escapes. At the same 
time, it will be proper to give half a tea-spoonful 
of drink or pap, containing 2 drops of oil of anise 
or caraways. As soon after as possible, a purgative 
of castor oil, or a grain or two of calomel (accord- 
ing to the age), witli two or three grains of rhu- 
barb, is to be given, to empty the bowels of what- 
ever crude mutter may occasion the disorder. 
The rickets. 

This disorder aflects the bones of cliildren, and 
causes a considerable protuberance, incurvation, oi" 
distortion of them. It may arise from various 
causes, bdt more particularly when jiroper care 
has not been taken wiiii children: when they have 
been too tightly swathed iu some parts, and too 



iVIEDICINE. 



249 



loose in others; keeping them too long in one and 
the same position; and not keeping tliem clean and 
thy. Sometimes it may proceed from a lax habit, 
at otiiers from costiveness. 

It usually appears about the eighth or. ninth 
month, an*] continues to the sixth or seventh year 
of the child's age. The head becomes large, and 
the fontanelle keeps long open; the countenance is 
full and tlorid; the joints knotty and distorted, espe- 
cially about the wrists; less near the ankles. The 
vihs protuberate, and grow- crooked; the bell)' 
swells; cough and disorder of the lungs succeed; 
and there is, withal, a very early understanding, 
and the child moves but weakly, and waddles in 
*valking. 

liegimen,' Uc. — The regimen should be light 
and properly seasoned; the air dry and clear; exer- 
cise and motion should be encouraged, and ban- 
<1ages, as well as instruments, contrived to keep 
the limbs in a proper situation; but we should take 
care that they be so formed as not to put the child 
to pain, or restrain it too much. 

Cold seii-bathing is of infinite use; after which, 
friction should be used, and the child placed be- 
tween two blankets^ so as to encourage perspiration. 
Tlie back should be well rubbed with opodeldoc, 
or good old rum, ever}' night. 

A few grains of ipecacuanha, or calomel, may 
now and then be proper, and chalybeates are also 
very serviceable. 

A decoction of Peruvian bark is also good, 
with red wine: it is to be used with moderation in 
the forenoon and after dinner. 

Distortion of the spine. 

Dr Weitch, an eminent physician of Berlin, has 
published in HuFeland's journal, a simple remedy 
lor weakness of the back-bone of infants, and which 
he considers capalile of preventing distortion. This 
method consists, first, in frequent and close exa- 
mination of the child's back-bone; and secondly, 
on the slightest trace of any distortion, to wash tlie 
same with brandy every morning and night, and 
to pay tlie strictest attention to the child's keeping 
a straight posture both sleeping and wakii^; and if 
it can be bathed from time to time, it will be so 
inucli the better. 

Jdly from the raspings of ivory. 

The raspings of ivoiy impart to boiling water a 
very pleasant jelly, wllich has been found more 
easy of digestion, and more nutritious than that of 
the hartshorn shavings, or isinglass. Mixed with 
the jelly ot the arrow-root, in the proportion of one 
])art to seven, it is much recommended for weakly 
and ricketly children, and consumptive or ema- 
ciated invalids. 

Ring-worm and scald head. 

It is well known that these disorders, which are 
.in many respects similar, are contagious; tiierefore, 
no comb or hair-brush, used by a child atfected 
by them, is to be used by another child either in a 
school or in the same family. Nor should the hat 
or cap of such a child be worn by any other. 

Treatment. — The intractableness of most chil- 
dren, when attempted to be controlled or governed 
by tlie accustomed mode of treatment, proves, ;n 
most instances, a material obstacle in iheway'of 
curing liiis malignant disease; and the quickness 
with wllich the hair of the scalp grows in children, 
has hitlierto, in most instances, rendered every 
eftbrt ineffectual. It was a constant failure, under 
tliese inauspicious circumstances, that led Air Bar- 
low, a medical professor in Lancashire, to adopt 
the subjoined lotion: — Take of sulphate of potass, 
recently prejiared, 3 drachms; Spanish white soap, 
l^do. ; lime-water, 7^oz. ; and spirit of wine, 2 
drachms. ]Mix, by shaking well in a phial. 

J3/ baihitjg the affected head with this lotion a 
2 G 



few times, morning and evening, and suffering the 
parts to dry without interruption, the scabs will 
decorticate and peel ofl:" from the scalp, and leave 
the parts underneath perfectly healed; without tor- 
turing the patient either by shaving the head or cut- 
ting off the hair. 

Ointment for the same. 

Take of spermaceti ointment, 1 oz. ; tar oint- 
ment, 1 oz.; powdered angustura bark, 3 drachms. 
Rub the whole well in a marble mortar, and apply 
to the parts affected. 

Alterative medicines. 

In six cases out often, this disease is aggravated 
by a scrofulous taint of the system; and when this 
is the case, the following alterative medicine acce- ■ 
lerates the cure. 

Take of oxide of zinc, precipitated sulphur of 
antimony, each, 9 grains; resin of guaiacum, ex- 
tract of bark, extract of hemlock, each, 2 scruples. 
Mix, and form into 20 pills. 

To children from six to ten years of age, give 
one pill night and morning; tinder six years, half 
a pill night and morning, mixed in raspberry 
jam. , 

Instead of the above, 1 grain of calomel may be 
given going to rest, ancl repeated every night; also 
the use of salt water externally and internally, as 
an alterative, has been found very useful. 

In all cases the bowels ought to be kept open, 
and the diet should consist of wholesome and nu- 
tritive food; avoiding fish and salt meats. Cleanli- 
ness and occasional use of the warm bath will 
likewise be of service. 

Hooping co7igh. 

This convulsive cough is occasioned by a viscid 
matter which cannot be easily expectorated. The 
poor infant, in endeavouring to bring it up, strains 
violently, till he becomes almost suffocated and 
convulsed. 

Jiemedies. — In this complaint, next to occasional 
vomiting, the daily use of the warm bath is most 
useful. Bleeding may sometimes be useful, to pre- 
vent inflammation of the internal membranes, or 
cupping between the neck and shoulders. Gentle 
antimonial emetics should he given repeatedly, 
because the symptoms are always relieved when 
the child vomits. 

Another. — Dissolve a scruple of salt of tartar in 
a pint of water, add ten grains of cochineal, finely 
powdered; swefeten this with sugar. Give an in- 
tant the fourth part of a table-spoonful four times 
a day. To a child two or three years old, half a 
spoonful; and to a child four years old or upwards, 
a spoonful. The relief will be immediate, and the 
cure, generally, in three or four days. 

To the above may be added, as auxiliaries, a 
Burgundy pitch plaster on the pit of th« stomach, 
a flannel waistcoat or shirt next the skin, and a 
change of air when practicable. The diet should 
be light and easy of digestion, avoiding every 
thing of a f-U and oily nature. 

Embrocation for hooping cough. 

Take of emetic tartar, 2 drachms, boiling water, 
2 oz. tincture of cantharides, 1 drachm, oil of 
wild thyme, 3 drachms. Mix. A dessert-spoon- 
ful to i)e rubbed upon the chest every night and 
morning. 

Megimen, &c. for hooping cough. 
A frequent change of air is exceedingly useful 
in hosping cough, particularly short voyages at 
sea; at the same time flannel is to be worn next 
the skin. Young children should lie with their 
heads and shoulders raised; and when the cough 
occurs, they ought to be placed on their feet and 
bent a little forward, to guard against suffocation. 
The diet should be light, and the drink warm and 
mucilaginous. 



£oO 



UNIVERSAL llECEIPr BOOK. 



The croup. 

This disease is peculiar to children, and gene- 
rally fatal, if care is not taken in the commence- 
ment. It commonly approaches with the usual 
sio-ns of a catarrh, hut sometimes the peculiar 
symptoms occur at the first onset; namely, a 
hoarseness, witli a shrill ringing sound hoth in 
speaking and coughing, as if the noise came from 
a brazen tube. At the same time there is a sense 
of pain about the larynx, and some difficulty of 
respiration, witli a whizzing sound in ins[)iration, 
as if llie passage of air was diminished: which is 
actually tlie case. The cough is generally dry, 
but if any thing is spit up, it is a purulent matter, 
sometimes resembling small portions of a mem- 
brane. 'I'iiere is also a frequent ])ulse, restlessness, 
and an uneasy sense of heat. l"he inside of tlie 
mouth is sometimes without inflammation, hut fre- 
quently a redness, ami even a swelling, exist. 
Sometimes there is an appearance of matter on 
tliem, like that rejected by coughing. 

Remedies. — As soon as possible a brisk emetic 
should be administered, for the purpose of freeing 
the patient from the coaguhible lymph which is al- 
ready secreted. Topical bleeding, by means of 
leeches, should immediately succeed, and the dis- 
charge be encouraged. As soon as it diminishes, 
a blister, so large as to cover the whole throat, 
should be applied, and suffered to lie on for thirty 
hours or longer. Then warm steam should be 
inhaled, and the bowsls should be evacuated by 
calomel. 

As soon as the emetic has operated sufficiently, 
opium may be administered, by which means the 
breathing will in general be soon relieved; but 
should it become more difficult in the course of a 
i&w hours, the emetic is to be again repeated, and 
after its operation the opium again employed. 
This practice is to be alternately used till such 
time as the patient is out of danger, which will in 
general be in the course of three or four days. 
The child should be kept nearly upright in bed. 

Another remedy. — Administer two grains of 
calomel every four hours, until the decline of 
the disorder's severity. As an adjunct, ^pply an 
ointment to the breast, composed of 5 grains of 
emetic tartai-, and 5 grains of powdered opium, to a 
drachm of spermaceti cerate, until eruptions are 
e.Kcited on the skin. 



USEFUL DOMESTIC MEDICINES. 

Dover''s sudorific powder. 

Take of ipecacuanha in powder, opium (purified), 
each 1 part, sulphate of potass, 8 parts. Triturate 
them together into a fine powder. 

The dase is from 2 to 5 grains, I'epeated accord- 
ing as the patient's stomach and strength can bear 
it. It is proper to avoid much drinking immedi- 
ately after taking it, otherwise it is very apt to be 
rejected by vomiting, before any other eftects are 
produced. Perspiration should he kept up by 
diluents, 

Jlhetic powder tvtth iron. 

Take of socotrine aloes, powdered, \h oz. 
myrrh, powdered, 2 oz. extract of gentian and 
sulphate, each in powder, 1 oz. INlix them. 

In this powder we have an aloetic and chalybe- 
ate conjoined. It is an useful medicine, and is par- 
ticularly employed in cases of obstructed men- 
struation. 

Compound assafatida pills. 

Take of assafcetida, galbanum, and myrrh, each 
1 oz. rectified oil of amber; 1 drachm. Beat them 
into a mass with simple syrup. 

These pills are antihysteric and eramenagogue, 



and are very well calculated for answering those 
intentions; half a scruple, a scruple, or more, may 
be taken every niglit, or oftener. 

Compound aloetic pills. 

Take of hepatic aloes, 1 oz. ginger powder, 1 
drachm, soap, \ oz. essential oil of peppermint, 
^ draclim. 

Let tlie aloes and the ginger he rubbed well to- 
gether, then add the soap and the oil, so as to form 
a mass. 

These pills may be advantageously used for ob- 
viating the habitual costiveness of sedentaiy per- 
sons. The dose is from 10 to 15 grains. 

Aloetic and myrrh pills. ' 

T.nke of socotrine aloes, 4 drachms, myrrh, a 
drachms, saffron, 1 drachm. Beat them into a 
mass with simple syrup. 

These pills have been long employed to stimu- 
late and open the bowels in chloi'otic, hypochon- 
driacal, and long diseased habits. The dose is from 
10 grains to a scruple, twice a day. 
J^lammer''s pills. 

These pills are alterative, diaphoretic, purga- 
tive, and beneficial in cutaneous eruptions, h.c. 

Take of calomel, 1 drachm, suliihate of anti- 
mony, 1 do. gum guaiacum, 2 drachms. 

Mix these assiduously with mucilage, and divide 
into 60 pills, two pills forming the dose. To be 
taken at night. 

Compound soap liniment. 

Take of camphor, 1 oz. soap, 3 oz. spirit of 
rosemary, 1 pint. 

Digest the soap in the spirit of rosemary until it 
be dissolved, and add to it the camphor. This is 
useful to excite action on the surface, and is used 
to disperse scrofulous enlargements, and to moist- 
en flannel which is applied to tlie throat in cases 
of quinsy. 

Cajeput opodeldoc. 

Take of almond soap, 2 oz. alcohol, 1 pint, 
camphor, I oz. cajeput oil, 2 oz. 

First dissolve the soap and camphor in the alco- 
hol in a retort, by means of a sand heat, and when 
the solution is about to congeal, or becomes nearly 
cold, add the oil of cajeput: sliake them well to- 
gether, and put it into bottles to congeal. 

This composition is a great improvement on the 
opodeldocs in general use, and in cases of rheu- 
matism, paralytic numbness, cliilblains, enl.arge- 
ments of joints, and indolent tumours, where the 
object is to rouse the action of absorbent vessels, 
and to stimulate the nerves, it is a very valuable 
external remedy. 

In several cases of lumbago and deep seated 
rheumatic pains, it has been known to succeed in 
the almost immediate removal of the disease. 
Liniment of ammonia. 

Take of water of ammonia, h an oz. olive oil, 
li oz. 

Shake them together in a phial till they are 
mixed. 

In the inflammatory quinsy, a piece of flannel, 
moistened with this mixture, applied to the throat, 
and renewed every four or five hours, is one of the 
most efficacious remedies. 15y means of this warm 
stimulating application, the neck, and sometimes 
the whole body, is put into a sweat, which, after 
bleeding, either carries off or lessens the inflam- 
mation. Where the skin cannot bear the acrimo- 
ny of this mixture, a larger proportion of oil may 
be used, 

Eau-de-luce. 

Ten or twelve grains of white soap are dissolv- 
ed in 4 oz. of rectified spirit of wint:; after which 
the solution is strained. A drachm of rectified 
oil of amber is then added, and the whole filtered: 
with this solution should be mi.xed such a propor- 



MEDICINE. 



251 



tion of the strongest volatile spirit of ammonia, in 
a clear glass bottle, as will, wlien sufficiently shak- 
en, produce a beautiful milk-white liquor. If a 
kind of cream should settle on tlie surface, it will 
be requisite to add a small quantil)' of the spiritu- 
ous solution of soap. Those who may wish to have 
this liquor water perfumed, may employ lavender 
or Hungary water, instead of the spirit of wine. 

This composition is, however, seldom obtained 
in a genuine state wlien purchased at tlie shops. 
Its use, as an external remedy, is very extensive: 
for it has not only been employed for curing the 
bites of vipers, wasps, bees, gnats, ants, and other 
insects, but also for burns, and even the bite of a 
mad dog, though not always with uniform success. 
Besides, it affords one of the safest stimulants in 
cases of suffocation from mephitic vapours, and in 
that state of apoplexy which is termed serous, as 
likewise after excessive intoxication, and in all 
those paralytic complaints where the vessels of the 
skin, or the muscular fibre require to be excited 
into action. 

Simple ointment. I 

Take of olive oil, 5 oz. white wax, 2 oz. This 
is a useful emollient ointment for softening the 
skin. 

Ointment of hog'' s lard. 

Take of prepared hog's lard, i lbs. rose-water, 
3 oz. Beat the lard with the rose-water until they 
be mixed: then melt the mixture with a slow fire, 
and set it apart that the water may subside; after 
v'hich, pour off the lard from the water, constant- 
ly stirring until it be cold. 

This ointment may be used for softening the 
skin, and healing cliaps. 

Lip salve. 

■ Alelt together 2J oz. of white wax, 3 oz. of 

spermaceti, 7 oz. oil of almonds, 1 dr. of balsam 

of Peru, and IJ oz. of alkauet root wrapped up in 

a linen bag. 

Pour the salve into small gallipots or boxes, and 
^over with bladder and white leather. 

JBasilicoii, or yellow resinous ointment. 

Take of yellow resin, 1 lb. yellow wax, 1 do. 
olive oil, 1 pint. Melt the resin and wax with a 
gentle heat; then add the oil, and strain the mix- 
ture while yet warm. 

Tills plaster is employed for the dressing of brok- 
en chilblains, and other sores that require stimu- 
lating; it is also used to drive milk away, being 
placeil over the tumid breasts whea the child is 
weaned. 

Turner^s cerate. 

This ointment is known by the vulgar name of 
turner's cerate, as curing the wounds of turners. 
It is generally used for broken cliilblains. 

Take of prepared calamine, yellow wax, each 
^ lb. olive oil, 1 pint. 

Melt tiie wax with the oil, and as soon as they 
begin to thicken, sprinkle in the prepared cala- 
mine and keep it stirring till the cerate is cool. 
Savin ointment. 

Take of fresh savin leaves, separated from the 
stalks, and bruised, -J lb.; prepared hogs' lard, 2 
lbs.; yellow wax, ^ lb. Boil the leaves in the lard 
until they became crisp; then filter with expres- 
sion; lastly, add tlie wax, and melt them to- 
gether. 

This is an excellent issue ointment, being, in 
many respects, preferable to those of cantharides. 
It is mixed witli equal parts of blistering ointment, 
in order to keep up a discharge. 

JMercurial ointment. 

Take of mercury, and mutton suet, each, 1 part; 
hogs' lard, 3 parts. Rub the mercury diligently 
in a mortar with a little of the hog's lard, until the 
globules disappear; then add the rem;iiuder of the 



lard, and rub until the ointment is completely pre- 
pared. 

One drachm of this ointment contains twelve 
grains of mercuiy. 

The preparation of mercurial ointment requires 
much labour, care, and patience. During the tri* 
turation, the mercury is mechanically divided into 
minute glol)ules, which are prevented from running 
together again by the viscosity of the fat. These 
globules at length disappear, being oxidized, or 
rendered black by intimate mixture with the lard. 
AVhatever tends to favour this, (for instance, a 
slight degree of rancidity of the lard,) shortens 
the time, and lessens the labour required for the 
prei)aration of the ointment. It is notiincommon, 
liowever, to use other means, which are not admis- 
silile, to facilitate the process, such as the use of 
sul[)!iur or turpentine. The first may be detected 
by the very black colour of the ointment, and also 
by the sulphurous odour exhaled when a paper 
covered with a little of it is held over the flame of 
a candle. The turpentine is detected by its odour 
also, when the ointment containing it is treated iu 
the same manner. 

When newly prepared, mercurial ointment lias 
a light grey or bluish colour, owing to its con- 
taining some unoxidized metal, which separates in 
globules when it is liquefied by a gentle heat: when 
ke\)t for some time, the colour is much deepened, 
and less metallic mercury is seen, owing to the 
more complete oxidizement of the metal. 
Cerate of Spanish Jiies. 

Take of cerate of spermaceti, softened with 
heat, 6 drachms; Spanish flies, finely powdered, 
one drachm. ISIix them by melting over a gentle 
fire. 

Under this form, cantharides may be made to 
act to 'any extent that is requisite. It may supply 
the place either of the blistering plaster or oint- 
ment; and there are cases in which it is preferable 
to either. It is, particularly, more convenient 
than the plaster of cantharides, where the skin to 
which the blister is to be ajiplied, is previously 
much aft'ected, as in cases of small-pox: and in 
su[)porting a drain under the form of issue, it is 
less apt to spread than the softer ointment. 
Compound Burgundy pitch pAasier. 

Take of Burgundy pitch, 2 lbs. labdanum, 1 lb. 
yellow resin, and yellow wax, each, 4 oz. e.xpress- 
ed oil of mace, 1 oz. 

To the pitch, resin, and wax melted together, 
add lirst the labdanum, and then the oil of mace. 

After a long continued cough in the winter, a 
Burgundy pitch plaster should be put over the 
breast bone. 

Compound labdanum plaster. 

Take of labdanum, 3 oz. frankincense, 1 oz; 
cinnamon, powdered, expressed oil of mace, each 
^ oz. essential oil of mint, 1 dr. 

To the melted frankincense add first the labda- 
num, softened by heat, then the oil of mace. Mix 
these afterwards with the cinnamon and oil of mint, 
and beat tnem together, in a warm mortar, into 
a jjlaster. Let it be kept in a close vessel. 

This has been considered as a very elegant sto- 
mach plaster. It is contrived so as to be easily 
made occasionally (for these kinds of compositions 
on account of their volatile ingredients are not fit 
for keeping), and to be but moderately adhesive, 
so as not to oftend the skin, also that it may, with- 
out difficulty, be frequently renewed; which these 
applications, in order to their producing any con- 
siderable elfect, require to be. They keep up a 
perspiration over the part affected, and create a lo- 
cal action, which diverts inflammation; consump- 
tion from colds, in ilelicate habits, is by such means 
tVequently obviated. 



252 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Mhesive plaster. 
Take of common, or liUiarge plaster, 5 parts, 
vliite resin, 1 part. 

Melt them together, and sjn'ead the liquid com- 
pound thin, on strips of linen, by means of a siw- 
tula, or table-knife. 

Tkis plaster is very adhesive, and is used for 
keeping on other dressini^s, kc. 
Co7irt plaster. 
Bruise a sufficient quantity of fish glue, and let 
it soak for twenty-four hours in a little warm water; 
expose it to heat over the fire, to dissipate the 
greater part of the -water, and supply its place by 
colourless brandy, which will mi\ the gelatine of 
the glue. Strain the whole through a piece of 
open linen; on cooling, it will form a trembling 
jelly- , 

Now extend a piece of black silk on a wooden 
frame, and fix it in that position by means of tacks, 
or pack thread. Then with a brush made of 
badger's hair apply the glue, after it has been ex- 
. posed to a gentle heat to render it liquid. When 
this straluni is dry, which will soon i)e the case, 
apply a second, anil then a third, if necessary, to 
give the plaster a certain thickness, as soon as the 
Avhole is dry, cover it with two or three strata of a 
strong tincture of balsam of Peru. 

This is the real English court plaster: it is plia- 
ble, and never breaks, characters which distinguish 
it from so many other preparations sold under the 
same name. 

Campouiul tincture of rhubarb. 
Take of rhubarb, sliced, 'i oz. liquorice root, 
bruise<l,-| oz. ginger, powdered, saffron, each 'i 
dr. distilled water, 1 pint, proof spirit of wine, 12 
oz. by measure. 

Digest for 14 days, and strain. Dose, h an oz. 
as an aperient, or 1 oz. in violent diarrhtca. 
Tincture of ginger. 
Take of ginger, in coarse powder, 2 oz. proof 
spirit, 2 pints. 

Digest in a gentle heat, for 7 days, and strain. 
This tincture is cordial and stimulant, and is 
generally employed as a corrective to purgative 
draughts. 

Compound tincture of senna. 
Take of senna leaves, 2 oz. jalap root, 1 oz. 
coriander seeds, ^ oz. proof spirit, 2^ [jints. 

Digest for seven days, and to the strained liquor 
add 4 ounces of sugar candv. 

This tincture is an useful carminative and ca- 
thartic, especially to tiiose who have accustomed 
themtielves to the use of spirituous liquors; it often 
relieves flatulent complaints and colics, where the 
common cordials have little ert'ect; the dose is from 
1 to 2 ounces. It is a very useful addition to the 
castor-oil, in order to take ott' its mawkish taste; 
and, as coinciding with the virtues of the oil, it is 
therefore much preferable to brandy, shrub, and 
such like liquors, which otherwise are often found 
necessary to make the oil sit on the stomach. 
Da^ffi/'s elixir. 
Take of senna, 2 lbs. rhubarb shavings, 2 lbs. 
jalap root, 1 lb. caraway seeds, I lb. aniseeds, 2 
lbs. sugar, 4 lbs. shavings of red sanders wood, 
^ lb. 

Digest these in 10 gallons of spirit of wine, for 
14 days, and strain for use. 

This elixir possesses almost the same qualities 
as tlie Compound Tincture of Senna. The above 
quantities may be reduced to as small a scale as j 
may be required. i 

77ie black drop. I 

Take half a pound of opium, sliced, three pints | 
of good verjuice,, one and a half ounces of nutmeg, [ 
and half an oz. of saffron; boil them to a pro[)er i 
thickuess, then add a (luarter of a pound of sugar ! 



and two spoonsful of yeast. Set the whole in a 
warm place, near the fire, for six or eight weeks, 
then place it in the open airtmtil it becomes of the 
consistence of a syru]); lastly, decant, filter, aud 
bottle it up, adding a little sugar to each bottle. 

The above ingredients ouglit to yield, when pro- 
perly made, about two pints of the strained liquor. 
Godfrei/'s cordial. 
Dissolve ^ an oz. of opium, 1 drachm of oil of 
sassafras, in 2 ounces of spirit of wine. Now 
mix 4 lbs. of treacle, with 1 g.illon of boiling 
water, and when cold, mix both solutions. This 
is generally used to soothe the pains of children, 
&ic. ,. 

Balsam of honey. 
Take of balsam of Tolu, 2 oz. gum storax, 2 
drachms, opium, 2 do. honey, 8 oz. Dissolve 
these in a quart of spirit of wine. 

This balsam is exceedingly useful in allaying 
the irritation of cough. The dose is 1 or 2 tea- 
spoonsful in a little tea, or warm water. 
'j'incture of the balsam of 'Tolu. 
Take of balsam of Tolu, 1 oz. alcohol, 1 pint. • 
Digest until the balsam be dissolved, and the» 
strain the tincture through a paper. 

This solution of the balsam of Tolu possesses 
all the virtues of the balsam itself. It may be 
taken internally, with the sevei-al intentions for 
whicii that balsam is proper, to the quantity of a 
tea-spoonful or two, in any convejiient vehicle. 

Mixed with simple syrup, it forms an agreeable 
balsamic syrup. 

Tincture of Penivian bark. 
Take of Peruvian bark, 4 oz. proof spirit, 2 
pints. Digest for ten days, and strain. 

It may be given from a tea-spoonful to ^ an oz. 
or an ounce, according to the different purposes it 
is iivtended to answer. 

Huxham's tincture of bark. 
Take of Peruvian bark, powdered, 2 oz. tlie 
peel of Seville oranges, dried, 1^ do. Virginian 
snake root, bruised, 3 drachms, saffron, 1 do. co- 
chineal, powdered, 2 scniples, proof spirit, 20 oz. 
Digest for l4 days, and strain. 

As a corroborant and stomachic, it is given in 
doses of two or three drachms; but when employed 
for tlie cure of intermittent fevers, it must be taken 
'to a greater extent. 

Tincture of g^iaiacnm. 
Take of guaiacum, 4 ounces, rectified spirit of 
wine, 2 pints. Digest for seven days, and filter. 

What is called gum guaiacum is, in fact, a resit*, 
and perfectly soluble in alcohol. This solution is 
a powerful stimulating sudorific, and may be given 
in doses of about j an ounce in rheumatic aud 
asthmatic cases. 

Ammo7uaied tincture of guaiacnm. 
Take of resin of guaiacum, in powder, 4 oz, 
ammoniated alcohol, in powder, I3 lbs. Digest 
for seven days, and filter through a paper. 

This is a very elegant and efficacious tincture; 
the ammoniated spirit readily dissolving the resin, 
and, at the same time, promoting its medical vir- 
tues. Ill rheumatic cases, a tea, or even table- 
spoonful, taken every morning and evening, in any 
convenient veh.icle, particularly in milk, lias 
proved of singular service. 

Compound tincture of benzoin. 
Take of benzoin, 3 oz. purified stoi"ax, 2 oz. 
balsam of Tolu, 1 oz. socotrine aloes, ^an oz. rec- 
tified spirit of wine, 2 pints. Digest for seven 
days, and filter. 

This preparation m.iy be considered as an ele- 
gant simpiifK-ation of some verj' complicated com- 
positions, wliicli were celebrated under different 
names; such as Baume de Comr.iaiideur, Wade'g 
liulsam, Friar's Ualsam, Jesuit's Drops, &«, 



MEDICINE. 



253 



These, in general, consisted of a confused farrago 
of discordant substances. The dose is a tea-spoon- 
ful in some warm water four times a day, in con- 
sumptions and spitting of blood. It is useful, also, 
vhen applied on lint, to recent wounds, and serves 
the purpose of a scab, but must not be soon remov- 
ed. Poured on sugar it removes spitting of blood 
immediately. 

Tincture of catechu. 

Take of extract of catechu, 3 oz. cinnamon, 
bruised, 2 oz. diluted alcohol, 2 pints. Digest for 
seven days, and strain through paper. 

The cinnamon is a very useful addition to the 
catechu, not oidy as it warms the stomach, but 
likewise as it covers its roughness and astringency. 

This tincture is of service in all kinds of de- 
iluxions, catarrhs, loosenesses, and other disorders 
where astringent medicines are indicated. Two 
or three tea-spoonsful may be taken every now and 
tlien, in red wine, or any other proper vehicle. 
GodbolcPs vegetable balsam. 

A pound of sugar-candy, dissolved by heat, in a 
«",uanlity of white wine vinegar, and evaporated to 
ihe measure of 1 pint, during which operation as 
much garlic as possible is dissolved witli it, an- 
swers all the purposes of Godbold's Vegetable 
Balsam, and is probably tlie same medicine. 
Spirit of nutmeg. 

Take of bruised nutmegs, 2 oz. proof spirit, I 
gallon, water sufficient to prevent burning. Distil 
otf a gallon. 

This is used to take off the bad flavour of medi- 
cine, and is a grateful cordial. 

Lavender luater. 

The common mode of preparing this, is to put 

3 drachms of the essential oil of lavender, and a 
drachm of the essence of ambergris, into 1 pint of 
spirit of wine. 

Tf'aier of pure ammonia. 

Take of sal-ammoniac, 1 lb. quick-lime, 2 lbs. 
water, 1 gallon. Add to the lime two pints of the 
water. Let them stand togetiier an hour: then add 
the sal-ammoniac and the other six pints of water 
boiling, and immediately cover the vessel. Pour 
out the licpior when cold, and distil oft', with a slow 
fire, one pint. This spirit is loo acrimonious for 
internal use, and has therefore been cliielly em- 
ployed for smelling to, in fainlings, Ike. though, 
when properly diluted, it may be given iuwardly 
with safely. 

Water of acetated ammonia. 

Take of ammonia, by weiglit, 2 oz. distilled 
vinegar, 4 pints; or as much as is sufiicient to sa- 
turate the ammonia. 

This is an excellent aperient saline liquor. 
Taken warm in bed, it proves commonly a power- 
ful diaphoretic or sudorific; and as it operates 
^lithoul lieat, it is used in febrile and inflammatory 
disorders, where medicines of the warm kind, if 
they fail of procuring sweat, aggravate the distem- 
per. Its action may likewise be determined to the 
kidueys, by walking about in cool air. The com- 
mon dose is half aji ounce, either by itself, or 
along with other medicines adapted to the inten- 
tion. Its strength is not a little precarious, depend- 
ing on that of the vinegar. 

Ulack pectoral lozenges. 

Take of extract of liquorice, gum-arabic, each, 

4 oz. white sugar, 8 oz. 

Dissolve them in warm water, and strain: then 
eraporate the mixture over a gentle fire till it be 
of a proper consistence for being formed into lo- 
zenges, which are to be cut out of any shape, 
WMte pectoral lozenges. 

Take of fine sugar, I lb. gum arable, 4 oz. 
^rch, 1 oz. flowers of benzoin, ^ drachm. 

Having beaten them all in a powder, make them 



into a proper mass witn rose-water, so as to form 
lozenges. 

These compositions are very agreeable pectorals, 

and may be used at pleasure. They are calculated 

for softening acrimonious humours, and allaying 

the tickling in tiie throat which provokes coughing. 

Syrup of ginger. 

Take of ginger bruised, 4 o/.. boiling distilled 
water, 3 pints. 

■ Macerate four hours, and strain the liquor; then 
add double refined sugar, and make into a syrup. 

This syrup promotes the circulation through the 
extreme vessels; it is to be given in torpid and 
phlegmatic liabits, where the stomach is subject to 
be loaded with slime, and the bowels distended 
with flatulency. Hence it enters into the compound 
tincture of cinnamon and the aromatic powder. 

Dyspeptic patients, from hard drinking, and 
those subject to flatulency and gout, have been 
known to receive considerable benefit by the use 
of ginger tea, taking two or three cupsful for 
breakfast, suiting it to their palate. 
Syrup of poppies. 

Take of the heads ot white poppies, dried, 3J 
lbs. double refined sugar, 6 lbs. distilled water, 8 
gallons. 

Slice and bruise the heads, then boil them in the 
water to three gallons, and press out the decoction. 
Reduce tliis, by boiling to about 4 pints, and strain 
it while hot through a sieve, then pirough a thin 
woollen cloth and set it aside for 12hours, that the 
grounds may subside. Boil the liquor poured otf 
from the grounds to 3 pints, and dissolve the sugar 
in it, that it may be made a syrup. 

Tlris syrup, impregnated with tlie narcotic mat- 
ter of the poppy-head, is given to children in doses 
of two or three drachms, and to adults of from ^ 
an oz. to one ounce and U[)wards, for easing pain, 
procuring rest, and answering the other intentions 
of mild operations. Particular care is requisite 
in its preparation, that it may be always made, as 
nearly as possible, of the same strengtii. ' 
Syrup of violets. 

Take of fresh flowers of the violet, 1 lb. boiling 
distilled water, 3 pints. 

JIacerate for 25 hoiu-s, and strain the liquor 
through a cloth, without pressing, and a<hl double 
refined sugar, to make the syrup. This is an 
agreeable laxative medicine for young children. 
Syrup of squills. 

Take of vinegar of squills, 2 lbs. double refined 
sugar, in powder, 3^ lbs. 

Dissolve the sugar with a gentle heat, so as to 
form a syruj). 

Tliis syrup is used chiefl)' in doses of a spoonful 
or two for promoting expectoration, which it does 
very powerfully. It is also given as an emetic to 
children. 

Oxymel of squills. 

Take of clarified hone^-, 3 lbs. vinegar of squills, 
2 pints, 

Boil them in a glass vessel, with a slow fire, to 
the tiiickness of a syrup. 

Oxymel of squills is an useful aperient, deter- 
gent, and expectorant, and of great service in hu- 
moral asthmas, coughs, and other disorders where 
thick phlegm abounds. It is given in doses of two 
or three drachms, along with some aromatic water, 
as that of cinnamon, to prevent the great nausea 
which it would otherwise be apt to excite. In 
large doses it proves emetic. 

Vinegar of squills. 

Tuke of squills, recently dried, I lb.; vinegar, 6 
pints; proof spirit, ^ pint. 

Macerate the squills with the vinegar, in a glass 
vessel, with a gentle heat, for twenty-four hours; 
tlien express the liqaor, and act it aside until the 



254 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



fseces subside. To the decanted liquor add the 
spirit. 

Vine8;ar of squills is a medicine of great anti- 
quity. It is a very powerful stimulant; and hence 
it is iVequenlly used with great siict-eas as a diu- 
retic and expectorant. The dose of this nie<!iLine 
is from a drachm to half an ounce: where crudities 
abound in the first passages, it may be given at 
first in a larger dose, to evacuate them hv vomit- 
ing. It is most conveniently exhibited along witii 
cinnamon, or otiier agreeable aromatic waters, 
which prevent the nausea it would otherwise, even 
ill small doses, be a)>t to occasion. 
Tav-water. 

Take of tar, 2 pints; water, 1 gallon. Mix, by 
stirring them with a wooden rod for a q'larter of 
an hour, and, after the tar has subsided, stram the 
liquor, and keep it in well corked phials. 

Tar-water should have the colour of white wine, 
and an empyreuraatic taste. It is, Lii fact, a solu- 
tion of empyreumatie oil, 'effected by means of 
acetous acid. It acts as a stimulant, raising the 
pulse, and increasing the discharge by the skin 
and kidneys. It may be drank to the extent, of a 
pint or two in the course of a day. 

Decoction of sarsapariJla. 

Take of sarsaparilla root, cut, G oz.; distilled 
water, 8 i)ints. 

After macerating for two iiours, with a heat about 
195 degrees, then take out the root and bruise it; 
add it again to the liquor, and macerate it for two 
hours longer; then boil down the liquor to 4 pints, 
and strain it. The dose is from -i oz. to half a pint, 
or more, daily. 

Compound decoction of sarsapari'ihi. 

Take of sarsaparilla root, cut and bruised, 6 oz. ; 
the bark of sassafras root, the shavings of guaiacum 
wood, liquorice root, eacli, 1 oz.; tlie bark of me- 
zereou root, 3 drachms; distilled water, 10 pints. 

Digest with a gentle heat for 6 hours; then boil 
down the liquor to one half (or five pints), adding 
the baric of the mezereon root towards the end of 
boiling. Strain oft' the Tuiuor. Tiie dose is the 
same as the last, and for thy same purposes. 

These,decoctions are of very great use in purify- 
ing the blood, and resolving obstructions in scor- 
butic and scrofulous cases; also in cutaneoQs erup- 
tions, and many other diseases. Oljstinate swellings, 
that had resisted the effect of otlier remedies for 
above twelve months, have been cured by drinking 
a quart of decoction of tiiis kitul, daily, for some 
weeks. Decoctions of sarsaparilla ougiit to be 
made fresh every day, for they very soon become 
quite ftetid, and unlit for use, sometimes in less 
than 24 hours, in warm weather. 

Decoction of the -woods. 
Take of guaiacum raspings, 3 oz.; raisins, 
stoned, 2 oz.; sassafras root, sliced, liquorice root, 
bruised, each 1 oz.; water, 10 lbs. 

Boil the guaiacum and raisins with the water, 
over a gentle fire, to the consumption of one half, 
adding, towards the end, the sassafras and liquorice, 
and strain the decoction without expression. 

This decoction is of use in some rheumatic and 
cutaneous aftections. It may be taken by itself, to 
the (juantity of a quarter of a pint, twice or thrice 
a day, or used as an assistant in a course of mer- 
curial or antimonial alteratives; the patient in either 
case keeping warm, in order to promote the opera- 
tion of the medicine. 

Water-gruel. 

Put a large spoonful of oatmeal into a pint of 
water, stir it well together, and let it boil three or 
four times, stirring it often. Then strain it througli 
a sieve, put in some salt according to taste, and if 
necessary add a piece of fresh butter. Siir with 



a spoon, until the butter is melted, when it will oe 
fine and smooth. 

Panada. 

Put a blade of mace, a large piece of the crumb 
of bread, and a quart of water, in a clean sauce- 
pan. Let it boil two minutes, then take out the 
l)reail, and bruise it very fine in a basin. Alix with 
it as much of tlie warm water as it will I'equire, 
pour away the rest, and sweeten it to the taste ot 
the i)atient. If necessary, put in a piece of butter 
of the size of a walnut, but add no wine. Grate ia 
a little nutmeg if requisite. 

Isinglass jelly, &c. 

Put an ounce of isinglass, and half an ounce of 
cloves, into a quart of water. Boil it down to a 
j)i!il, strain it upon a pound of loaf sugar, and when 
cold add a little wine, when it will be fit for use. — 
A very nourishing beverage may be made by 
merely boiling the isinglass with milk, and sweet- 
ening with lump-sugar. 

Beef tea. 

Take oft" the fat and skin from a pound of lean 
beef, and cut it into pieces. Tiieu put it into a 
gallon of water, wiili the under crust of a penny 
loaf, and a small portion of salt. Let the whole 
boil till reduced to 2 quarts, and strain, when it 
will be fit for use. 

Another method. — In some cases, when the pa- 
tient is very weak, tlie tea must be made thus:— 
Take a piece of lean beef, cut it across and across, 
and then pour on it scalding water. Co.ver it up 
close, and let it stand till cold. Ttien pour it off, 
and warm it as the patient requires, having sea- 
soned it moderately. 

Transparent soup for convalescents. 

Cut the meat from a leg of veal into small pieces, 
and break the bone into several bits. Put tlie meat 
into a very large jug, and the bones at top, with a 
bunch of common sweet herbs, a quarter of an oz. 
of mace, and half a pound of Jordan almonds, 
finely blanched and beaten. Pour on it four quarts 
of boiling water, and let it stand all night, covered' 
close by tlie fireside. The next day put it into a 
wellrtinned saucepan, and let it boil slowly, till it 
is reduced to two quarts. Be careful, at the time 
it is boiling, to skim it, and take o.*f the fat aS it 
rises. Strain into a jiunch-bowl, and wlien settled 
for tw'o hours, pour it into a clean saucepan, clear 
from the sediments, if any. Add 3 oz. of rice, 
or 2 oz. of vermicelli, previously boiled in a little 
water. When once more boiled, it will be fit for 
use. 

Sedlitz pOTuders. 

Take of Rochelle salt, 1 draciira, carbonate of 
soda, 25 grains, tartaric acid, 20 do. 

Dissolve the two first in a tumbler of water 
then add the latter, and swallow without loss ot 
time. 



SALUTABT CAUTIOS^S. 

Piirif cation of water by charcoal 
Nothing has been found so eftectual for preserv- 
ing water sweet at sea, during long voyages, as 
charring the insides of the casks well before they 
are filled. Care ouglit at the same time to be taken 
that the casks should never be filled with sea wa- 
ter, as sometimes happens, in order to save the 
trouble of shifting the ballast, because this tends 
to hasten tlie corruption of the fresli water after- 
wards put into them. When the water becomes 
impure and oftensive at sea, from ignorance of the 
preservative eft'ect produced on it by charring the 
casks previous to their being filled, it may be i-en- 
dered perfectly sweet by putting a little fresh ehar- 



MEDICi:NrE. 



265 



coal in powdei" into each cask before it is tapped, 
or by tiltei'ing it through fresh burnt and coarsely 
powdered charcoal. 

No practice lias anSwered better than that of 
charring their water casks on their inside. Three 
casks of water in one of his Majesty's dock yards, 
of three j'Ciirs' standing, were perfectly sweet when 
tapi)cd. There is, therefore, little doubt liut that 
water may be preserved fresh and fit for drinking 
for any length of lime, in charred barrels. 
Cleanliness. 

To preserve seamen in health, and prevent the 
prevalence of scurvy, and other diseases, it will be 
fuvtiier necessary to keep the ship perfectly clean, 
and to have llie different parts ot it daily purified 
by a free admission of air, when the weather will 
admit of it, and likewise h)' frequent fumigations. 
Tills precaution will more particularly be neces- 
sary for the purification of such places as are re- 
markably close and confined. 

I'veventioii of dampness and cold. 

Tlie coldness and dampness of the atmosphere 
are to be corrected by sufficient fires. 

Cleanliness on board of a ship is highly neces- 
sary for the preservation of tlie health of seamen; 
but tlie custom of frequent swabbings or washings 
between the decks, as is too frequently practised, 
is certainly injurious, and greatly favours the pro- 
duction of scurvy and other diseases by a constant 
dampness being kept up. 

Exercinc and amusements. 

The men should be made to air tlieir hammocks 
and bedding every fine day; the)" sliould w; sh their 
bodies and apparel often, for which purpose an* 
adequate supply of soap ought to be allowed; and 
they should change their linen and other clothes 
frequently. In rainy weather, on being relieved 
from their duty on the deck by the succeeding 
watch, they should take off their wet clothes, in- 
stead of keeiiing tiiem on, and lying down in them, 
is llii'y are too apt to do. Two sets of iiammocks 
•ought to he provided for them. In fine pleasant 
weatl'er, and after their usual duty is over, they 
should be indulged in any innocent amusement 
that will keep tlieir minds, as well as bodies, in a 
state of pleasant activity, and perhaps none is more 
proper than dancing. Tiiis makes a fiddle or a 
pipe and tabor, desirable acquisitions on board of 
every ship bound on a long voyage. 
Effects of climate, &c. 

In warm climates the crew s of ships are healthier 
at sea when the air is dry and serene, and the heat 
juoderated by gentle breezes, than when rainy or 
damp weatlier prevails; and they usually enjoy 
better healtii when the ship is moored at a con- 
siderable distance from the shore, and to wind- 
ward of any marshy ground or stagnant waters, 
than when it is anchored to leeward of these, and 
lies close in with the land. Masters of vessels, 
stationed at, or trading to, any parts between the 
tropics, will therefore act prudently, when they 
have arrived at their destined port, to anchor a 
considerable distance from the shore, and as far to 
windward of all swamps, pools, and lakes, as can 
conveniently be done, as the noxious vapours which 
will be wafted to the crew, when t!ie ship is in a 
station of this nature, will not fail to give rise to 
diseases among them. 

Cautions to be observed -when on sJiore. 

When unavoidably obliged to submit to such an 
inconvenience, some means ought to be adopted to 
prevent disagreeable consequences from ensuing. 
For this purpose a large sail should be hoisted at 
the fureniast, or most windward part of the sliip, 
so as to prevent the noxious vapours from coming 
abal't; the cabin, steei^age. and betvi eea the decks, 



should be fumigated now and then, and the seamen 
allowed to smoke tobacco freely. 

Unless absolutely necessan',it will be improper 
to permit any of the crew to sleep from on board, 
when stationed off an unhealthy shore; but when 
necessity -obliges them to do so, for the purposes 
of wooding or watering, a tent or marquee should 
be erected, if a proper house cannot be procured, 
and this should be pitched on the dryest aiul high- 
est spot that can be found, being so situated, as 
that tile door shall open towards the sea. Under 
cover of this, a sufficient number of hammocks are 
to be suspended for the accommodation of the mea 
by night, as the)' should by no means be suB'ered 
to sleep on the open ground. 

If the tent happens unfortunately to be in the 
neighbourhood of a morass, or hi'.s unavoidably 
been pitched on flat moist ground, it will be ad- 
visable to keep up a constant fire in it by day as 
well as by night; and as a further preventive against 
those malignant disorders which are apt to arise iu 
sucli situations, the men should be directed to 
smoke freely of tobacco, and to take a wine-glass- 
ful of the compound tincture of Peruvian hark 
every morning, on an empty stomach, and the 
same quantity again at night. 

Cautions when in tropical climates. 

In tropical climates, the healthiness of seamen 
will much depend upon avoiding undue exposure 
to the sun, rain, night air, long fasting, intempe- 
rance, unwholesome shore duties, especially during 
the sickly season, and upon the attention paid to 
the various regulations and preventive measures. 
The bad effects of remaining too long in port at 
any one time (independent of irregularities, of 
harbour duties, particularly after sunset, as well as 
during his meridian power), cannot be too strongly 
adverted to by the commander of every sliip; and 
therefore a measure of the highest importance in 
the navy is the employment of negroes and natives 
of the country, or at least men accustomed to the 
torrid zone, in wooding, watering, transporting 
stores, rigging, clearing, careening shifis, &c. ; and, 
in fine, in all such occupations as might subject 
the seamen to excessive heat or noxious exliala- 
tions, v.'hich cannot fail to be highly dangerous to 
thehesIOi of the tinassimilated seaman. 

The practice of heaving down vessels of war in 
the West Indies, in tlie ordinary routine of ser- 
vice at least, cannot be too highly deprecated, as 
well from the excessive fatigue and exertion it 
demands, as because it is a process which retjuires 
for its execution local security, or, in other words, 
a land that is locked, and therefore generally au 
unhealtliy harbour. The instances of sickness 
and mortality from the effects of clearing a foul 
hold in an unhealthy harbour, are too numerous to 
be specified. 

Intoxication. 

A very productive source of disease in warm 
climates among seamen, is an immoderate use of 
spirituous and fermented liquors, as they are too 
apt, whilst under a state of intoxication, to throw 
themselves on the bare ground, where, perhaps, 
they lie exposed for manylioursto the influence of 
the meridian sun, the heavy dews of the evening, 
or the damp chilling air of the night. The com- 
mander of a ship who pays attention to the health 
of his crew, will therefore take every possible [ire- 
caution to prevent his men from being guilty of an 
excess of this nature; and likewise that iliey do not 
lie out in the open air, when overcome by fatigue 
and hard labour. 

The difterent voyages of that celebrated naviga- 
tor, Captain Cook, as well as that of the unfortu- 
nate La Perouse, incontestably prove that by due 



256 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



care and a proper regimen, seamen may be pre- 
served from the scurvy and otlier diseases wliich 
have forrrit-rly been inseparable from long sea 
voyages; and tliat tbcy can thus support the fatigues 
of the longest navigations in ail climates, and un- 
der a burning sun. 

JVoxious vapours. 

Smoking or fumigating sliips with charcoal or 
sulphur, is the most effectual means of killing all 
kinds of vermin, and is therefore always resorted 
to; but it is recommended that no sailor nor hoy 
be allowed to go under the decks until the hatches, 
and all the other opeiungs, have been for three 
Lours uncovered; in that time all noxious vapours 
will be effectually dissipated. 
Captain Cook's rules fur preserving the health of 
seamen. 

I. The crew to be at tliree watches. The men 
will by this means have time to shift and dry 
themselves, and get pretty well refreshed by sleep 
before called again to duty. \\'lien there is no 
pressing occasion, seamen ought to be refreshed 
■with as much uninterrupted sleep, as a common 
day labourer. 

i2. To have dry clothes to shift themselves after 
getting wet. — One of the officers to see that ever}' 
man, on going wet from his watch, be immediately 
shifted with dry clothes, and the same on going to 
bed. 

3. To keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, 
and clothes, clean and dry. — This commander 

made his men pass in review before him, one day 
in every week, and saw that they had changed their 
linen, and were as neat and clean as circumstances 
would admit. He had also every day the ham- 
mocks carried on tjhe booms, or some other airy 
part of the ship, unlashed, and the bedding tho- 
roughly shaken and aired. When the weather 
prevented the hammocks being carried on deck, 
they were constantly taken down, to make rooom 
for the iires, the sweeping, and other operations. 
When possible, fresh water was always allowed to 
♦he men to wash their clothes, as soap will not mix 
with sea-water, and linea washed iu brine never 
thoroughly dries. 

4. To keep the ship clean between decks, 

5. To have frequent tires between decks, and 
at the bottom of the well. — Captain Cook's method 
was to have iron pots with dry wood, which he 
burned between decks, in the well, and other parts 
of the ship; during which time, some of the crew- 
were employed in rubbing, with canvas or oakum", 
every part that had the least damp. Where the 
heat from the stoves did not readily absorb the 
moisture, loggerheads, heated red hot, and laid on 
sheets of ircii, speedily etfected the purpose. 

6. Proper attention to be paid to the sliip's cop- 
pers, to keep them clean and free from verdigris. 

7. The fat that is boiled out of the salt beef or 
pork, never to be given to the people. 

8. The men to be allowed plenty of fresh water, 
at tiie ship's return to port; the water remaining on 
board to he started, and fresh water from the shore 
to be taken in its room. ^ 

By means of the above regulations, (in addition 
to rules relative to temperance; and supplying the 
crews as much as possible with fresh meat and 
vegetables), tliis celebrated navigator performed a 
voyage of upwards of three years, in every climate 
of the globe, with the loss of only one man. 
To obtain fresh water from the sea. 

The metliod of obtaining fi'esh water from the 
sea by distillation, was introduced into the English 
navy in the year 1770, by Dr Irving, for whicli he 
obtained a parliamentary reward of ilSOOO. 

In order to give a clear notion of Dr Irving's 
Jj lei us suppose a teakettle to be made 



without a spout, and with a hole in the lid, in the 
place of the knob; the kettle being filled with sea- 
water, the fresh va])Our, which arises from the 
water as it boils, will issue through the hole in 
the lid; into that hole fit the mouth of a tobacco 
l)ipe, letting the stem have a little inclination 
downwards, then will the vapour of fresh water 
take its course through the stem of the tube, and 
may be collected by fitting a proper vessel to its 
end. 

This would be an apt representation of Dr Irv- 
ing's contrivance, in which he has luted or adapted 
a tin, iron, or tinned copper tube, of suitable di- 
mensions, to the lid of the common kettle used for 
boiling the provisions on board a ship; the fresli 
vapour which arises from boiling sea-water in the 
kettle, passes, as by common distillation, through 
this tube into a hogshead, which serves as a receiv- 
er; and in order that the vapour may be readily 
condensed, the tube is kept cool by being constant- 
ly wetted with a mop dipped in cold sea water. 
The waste water running from the mop, may be 
carried otf by means of two boards nailed together, 
like a spout. Dr Irving particularly remarks, that 
otdy three-fourths of the sea-water should be dis- 
tilled; the brine is then to be let 'off and the copper 
replenished, as the M'ater distilledfrora the remain- 
ing concentrated brine is found to have a disagreea- 
ble taste; and as the farther continuation of the 
distillation is apt to be injurious to the vessels. 
When the water begins to boil, likewise, the va- 
pour sliould be allowed to pass freely for a minute; 
this will effectually cleanse the lube, and upper 
part of the boiler. 

To render sea-water capable of -washing linen. 

It is well known that sea-water cannot be em- 
ployed for washing clothes. — It refuses to dissolve 
soap, and possesses all the properties of Lard 
water. 

This is a great inconvenience to seamen, whose 
allowance of fresh water is necessarily limited, 
and it prevents them from enjoying many of those 
comforts of cleanliness which contribute not a little 
to health. The method of removing this defect is 
exceedingly simple, and by no means expensive. 
It has lately been pointed out by Dr Mitchell, of 
New York: — Drop into sea-water a solution of 
soda, or potash. It will become milky, in conse- 
quence of the decomposition of the earthy salts, 
and the precipitation of the earths. This addition 
renders it soft, and capable of washing. Its milki- 
ness will have no injurious efiect. 



PRESEHVATION FKOM EROWXIJfS AXD SHIPWBKCE. 



JJ'hen a man falls overboard. 

The instant an alarm is given that a man is 
overboard, the ship's helm should be put down, 
and she should be hove in stays; a hen coop or 
other object that can float should also be thrown 
overboard as near the man as possible, with a rope 
tied to it, and carefully kept sight of, as it will 
prove a beacon, towards which the boat may pull 
as soon as lowered down. A primary object is, 
having a boat ready to lower down at a moment's 
notice, which should be hoisted up at the stern if 
most convenient; the lashings, tackle, kc. to be 
always kept clear, and a rudder, tiller, and spare 
spar, to be kept in her. When dark, siie should 
not be without a lanthorn and a compass. 

There should also be kept in her a rope with a 
rutming bowline, ready to fix in or to throv. to the 
person in danger. Coils of small i-ope, with run-, 
ning bowlines, should. also be kept in the chains, 
quarters, and abaft, ready to throw over, as it most 
11 generally ocwirs, that men pass close to Uic ship's 



TklEDlCINE. 



257 



si»1e, and have often been miraculously saved by 
clinging to ropes. 

Upsettin:^ of a boat. 
If a person should fall out of a boat, or tlieboat 
Upset by going /"oul of a cal^, btc. or siiould he 
fall of^ the quays, or indeed fall into any water, 
from which he cannot extricate himself, but must 
wait some little time for assistance — bad he prt> 
Fence of mind enough to whip off his bat, and hold 
it by the brim, placing his fingers within side of 
the crown, (top upwards) he woTild be able, by 
this method, to keep bis mouth above water till 
assistance should reach him. It often happens that 
danger is apprthended long before we are involved 
in the ])eril, although there may he time enough 
to prepare this, or adopt any other method. Tra- 
vellers, in fording rivers at unknown fords, or 
where shallows are deceitful, might make use of 
this method with advantage, 

Cork ivaistcoatg. 
Provide a cork waistcoat, composed of four 
pieces, two for the breast and two for the back, 
each prett)' near in length and breadth to the quar- 
ters of a waistcoat without flaps; the whole is to be 
covered with coarse canvass, with two holes to put 
the arms through. There must be a space left be- 
tween the two back pieces, and the same betwi.\t 
each back and breast piece, that they may fit the 
easier to the body. By this means the waistcoat 
is open only before, and may be fastened on the 
wearer by strings; or if it should be thought more 
secure, Avith buckles and leather straps. Tliis 
waistcoat may be made up for five or six shillings. 
If those who use the sea occasionally, and espe- 
cially those who are obliged ta be almost con- 
stantly there, were to use these waistcoats, it 
vvoiild be next to impossible that tliey should be 
drowned, 

Furthei' vxeaiis. 
It will likewise be proper to prepare an oil skin 
bag, on going to sea, for a temporaiy supply of 
j)rovisions, in case of shipwreck. li suddenly 
plunged into the water, and unable to swim, it will 
he necessary to keep the hands and arms under 
the water — few animals beingcapable of drowning, 
owing to their inability to lift their fore legs over 
their heads. 

The legs, therefore, being necessarily immersed 
in the water, the difterence between the specific 
gravity of the animal and the water, is sufficient to 
enable it to keep its nostrils and mouth above the 
water, and therefore it is not suiTocated by the 
fluid, but breathes freely. Hut man, on the con- 
trary, being able to lift his hands over his heail, 
and generally doing so in case of this accident, his 
liands and arms make up the difference ia specific 
gravit)', and his head, impelled by the weight of 
his hands and arms below tiie water, his body fills, 
and he is consequently choked and s\iifocated. The 
remedy therefore is, in all such cases, to keep 
down "the iiands and arms, and as a further secu- 
rity, to act with them under and against the water. 
It will then be impossible to sink, unless the weight 
of clothes or other circumstances operate to the 
contrary. 

The marine spencer. 
The marine spencer is made in the form of a 
girdle, of a proper diameter to fit the body, and 
six inches broad, composed of about 500 old tavern 
corks, strung upon a strong twine, well lashed to- 
gether with lay-cord, covered with canvass, and 
painted in oil so as to make it water-proof. Two 
tapes of cords, about two feet long, are fastened 
to the back of the girdle with loops at the ends. 
Another tape or cord of the same length, having a 
fcw oorks stning to the. middle of it, is covered 
vith canvass painted, A pin of liard wood, tiu"ee 
2 H 



mchcs long and half an inch in diameter, is fast- 
ened to the front of the girdle by a tape or cord, 
about three inches long. To use the spencer, it 
sliouldbe slidden from tlie feet close up to the arms^ 
the tapes or cords are to be brought one over each 
shoulder, and fastened by the loops to the pin: 
those between tlie legs are to be fastened to the 
other pin. A person thus equipped, though unac- 
quainted with swimming, may safely trust Iiimself 
to the waves; for he will float, head and shoulders 
icibove water, in any storm, and by paddling with 
his hands, may easily gain the shore. Such a spen- 
cer may also be made of cork shavings put into a 
long canvass bag. , 

It has also been suggested, that every part of the 
usual dress of the sailor should be made with a 
view of preserving his life, in eases of accident; and 
for this purpose that a quantity of cork shavings 
or clippings should be quilted into his jacket about 
the collar and neck, between the outside and in- 
side lining: or as a belt, of considerable breadth 
across the back and shoulders, then principally 
omitted under the .arms, and resumed over the 
chest and storaacii, yet not so much as to create in- 
convenience. If in these, and other parts of his 
dress, so much cork could commodiously be work- 
ed, as would give the sailor an opportunity of re- 
covering himself, and making use of his own pow- 
ers in cases of contingency, many valuable lives 
might be saved. 

Bamboo habit. 

The bamboo habit is .an invention of the Chinese, 
by the use of which, a person unskilled in the art 
of swimming, may easilykeep himself above water. 
The Chinese merchants, when going on a voyage, 
are said always to provide themselves with this Jk 
simple apparatus, to save their lives in cases of 
danger from shipwreck. It is constructed by plac- 
ing four bamboos horizontally, two before, and two 
behind the body of each person, so that they pro- 
ject about twenty-eight inches; these are crossed on 
each side by two others, and the whole properly 
secured, leaving an intermediate space for (lie 
body. 'When thus formed, the person in danger 
slips it over his head, and ties it securely to ilie 
waist, by which simple means he cannot possibly 
sink, 

To extricate persons f rain broken ice. 

Let two or more persons hold a rope or ropes, 
at both ends, stretched over the broken ice; so that 
tlifi drowning person may catch hold of it. 
The life boat. 

The life-boat is generally thirty feet long, and 
in form much resembling a common Greenland 
boat, except the bottom, which is much flatter. She 
is lined with cork, inside and outside of t!ie gun- 
wale, about two feet in breadth, and the seats un- 
derneath are filled with cork also. 

She is rowed by ten men, double banked, and 
steered by two men with oars, one at each end, 
both ends being alike. Long poles are proAidecl 
for the men, to keep the boat from beiPig driven 
broadside to the shore, either in going olf or land- 
ing. About six inches from the lower poles, it 
increases in diameter, so as to form aflat surface 
against the sand. The weight of the cork used in 
the boat is about seven cwt. 

She draws very little water, and when full is able 
to carry twenty people. The boat is able to con- 
tend against the most ti-emendous sea and broken 
water; and never, in any one instance, has she 
failed in bringing the crew in distress into a place 
of safety. The men have no dread in going of!" 
with her in the highest sea and broken water: cork 
jackets were provided for them; but their confi- 
fidence in the boat is so great, that they do not use 
titeru, 

W2 



268 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



The success attending this expedient for dimin- 
ishing the nurabei- of unhappy individuals almost 
daily lost in a watery grave, appears to have been 
more than equal to the most sanguine expectations 
formed of its utility; and the great object in view, 
viz. the safety of those persons who hazard their 
own security to preserve others, has been fully ac- 
complished. 

Safe and readily constintcted life-boat. 

In April, 180G, a model of a life-boat was exhi- 
bited before the Royal Humane Society, which may 
Le put together in the space of half an hoiu', in any 
case of sliipwreck, and which cannot sinker over- 
set, let the sea run ever so high. All that is neces- 
sary to be provided is, a keel or plank of any con- 
venient length, and a few pigs of iron, such as 
vessels usually carry out for ballast. The officers 
of the ship are to take care to keep two or three 
empty water-casks, perfectly tight, the bung-holes 
corked up, and a piece of tin or leather nailed 
over them. These casks are to be lashed witii 
ropes to the Keel, along with the pigs of iron for 
ballast; and any spare poles or spars may be also 
lashed to the sides, so as to give tlie raft the form 
of a vessel, and at each end to make a lodgement 
forthe men. Any of the square sails of the ship 
will form a lug-sail, and may speedily be adapted 
to the new life-boat, and a strong and broad spar 
may be lashed on as a rudder. 

Anothe'r. — Let a quantity of ballast, even more 
than what is commonly used for sailing, be laid in 
the bottom of the boat, over tViis lay bags filled 
■with cork, prepared forthe purpose, and numbered 
according to their places, and if considerably 
higher than the gunwales so much the better; a sail 
or part of one folded may be thrown over from 
stem to stern, to combine and unite the several 
parts; and lastly, the whole is to be secured to- 
gether by passing ropes by so many turns as may 
be deemed sufficient, round and round over the 
gunwales and under the keel, and these, if neces- 
sary, may be hitched by a turn or two taken 
lengthwise-. 

Every person either on board or holding by the 
boat, so prepared, may be absolutely certain of 
being carried safe through any breach whatever. 

When no such preparation of cork has been 
made, the following is proposed as a substitute: 

Let a quantity of ballast, as coals in canvass, be 
secured in its place, as well as circumstances will 
admit; then take an empty water cask (beer cask, 
or any others that are light) and fill the boat with 
them, and if the bilge of the cask rises considerably 
higher than the gunwales, it will be so much the 
better; let a sail then be thrown in to jam the cask 
and ballast in their places, as well as to combine 
and unite the several parts by covering all fore and 
aft; and lastly, let the whole be lashed and secured 
together, in the manner above stated. It is be- 
lieved the boat in this trim would always continue 
upright on her keel, be lively and buoyant on the 
water, and have sufficient efficacy to support the 
crew of any ordinary vessel, till drifted within their 
own depth. 

It frequently happens that after men have gained 
the shore, they perish of cold for want of diy 
clothes. As a remedy for this, every man should 
try to secure one or two flannel or woollen shirts, 
by wrapping them up tightly in a piece of oiled 
cloth or silk; and to guard against tearing, the last 
rnight be covered with canvass, or inclosed in a tin 
box. 

Further method of preservation in cases of ship- 
ivrecks. 

It being the great object, in cases of shipwreck, 
to establish a communication betwixt the vessel 
and the shore with the least possible delay, various 



methods have been invented and pointed out for 
this purpose. 

A common paper kite launched from the vessel, 
and driven by the wind to the shore has been sup- 
posed capable of conveying a piece of pack thread, 
to which a larger rope might be attached and di'awn 
on board. 

A small balloon, raised by rarified air might be 
made to answer the same purpose. 

A sky rocket, of a large diameter, has also been 
considered as capable of an equal service, and, in- 
deed, this method seems the best; for besides the 
velocity of the discharge, could it be brought to act 
during the night, it must both point out the situa- 
tion of the ship, and the direction that the line 
took in flying asljore. 

Useful hints ivhen a leak is sprung. 

WTien a vessel springs a leak near her bottom, 
the water enters with all the force given by the 
weight of the column of water without, which force 
is in proportion to the difference of tlie level be- 
tween the water without and that within. It enters 
therefore willi more force at first, and in greater 
quantity than it can afterwards, when the water 
within is iiigher. The l)ottom of the vessel, too, 
is narrower, so that the same quantity of water 
coming into that narrow part, rises faster than 
when the space for it is larger. This helps to 
terrif)'. 13ut as the quantity entering is less and 
less, as the surfaces without and within become 
more nearly equal in height, the pumps that could 
not keep the water from rising at first, might after- 
wards be able to prevent its rising higher, and the 
people might have remained on board in safety, 
without hazarding themselves in an open boat on 
the wide ocean. 

Besides the greater equality in the height of the 
two surfaces, there may sometimes be otiier causes 
that retard the farther sinking of a leaky vessel. 
Tlie rising water within may arrive at quantities of 
light wooden works, empty chests, and particularly 
empty water casks, which, fixed so as not to float 
themselves, may help to sustain her. Many bodies 
which compose a ship's cargo may be specifically 
lighter than water: all these, when out of water, 
are an additional weight to that of the ship, and slie 
is in proportion pressed deeper in the water, but 
as soon as these bodies are immersed, they weigih 
no longer on the ship: but, on the contrary, if fixed, 
ti>ey help to support her in proportion as they are 
specifically lighter than the water. 

Temporary nautical pump. 

Captain Leslie, of the George and Susan, in a 
voyage from Xorth America to Stockholm, adopt- 
ed an excellent mode of emptying water from his 
ship's hold, when the crew were insufiicient to per- 
form that duty. About 10 or 12 feet above the 
pump, he rigged out a spar, one end of which pro- 
jected overboard, while the oilier was fastened, as 
a lever, to the machinery of the pump. To the 
end which projected overboard, was suspended a 
water-butt, half full, but corked down: so that 
when the coming wave raised the butt-end, the 
other end depressed the piston of the pump; but 
at tiie retiring of tiie wave, this was reversed, for, 
by the weight of the butt, the piston came up again, 
and with it the water. Thus, without the aid of 
the crew, the ship's hold was cleared of the water 
in a few hours. 

Another. — When a vessel springs a leak at sea, 
which cannot be discovered, instead of exhausting 
the crew by continual working at the pumps, they 
may form, with very little trouble, a machine to 
discharge the watei-, which will work itself, with- 
out any assistance from the hands on board. 

Let a spar, or spare top-mast, be tut to the 
length of eight or ten iiiii, or more, according to 



MEDICINE. 



259 



the size of the vessel; mortice four holes through 
the thickest end, through which run four oars, fix- 
ing them tight, exactly in the mid. He. To the four 
handles nail on four blades, (made of staves) the 
size of the other ends, which will form a very good 
water wheel if the oars be strong: then fix into the 
opposite end what is commonly called a crank: 
the iron handle of a grindstone would suit extreme- 
ly well: if this is not to he had, any strong bar of 
iron may be bent into that form, wedging it tight 
to prevent its twisting round. Then nail up a new 
pair of chaps on the fore part of the pump, for a 
new handle to be fixed in, which will point with 
its outer end to the bow of the vessel; this handle 
will be short on the outside, but as long on the in- 
side as the diameter of the bore of the pump will 
admit, in order that the spear may be plunged the 
deeper, and of course the longer stroke. The 
liandle must be large enough to have a slit sawed 
up it, sufficient to admit a stave edgeways, which 
must be fastened with a strong iron pin, on which 
it may work. The lower end of the slave must 
be bored to admit tlie round end of the crank; 
then fix the shaft, with the oars (or arms) over the 
jjunwale, on two crotchets, one spiked to the gun- 
wale, and the other near the pump, cutting in the 
shaft a circular notch, as well to make it run ea- 
sier, by lessening the friction, as to keep the whole 
steady. A bolt is now to be fixed in each crotchet 
close over the shaft, to keep it from rising. As 
soon as the wheel touches the water it will turn 
round, and the crank, by means of the stave fixed 
oil its end, will work the handle of the pump. 
To render the sinking of a ship impassible. 

According to the present plan of ship-building, 
in case of leaks at sea, which cannot be kejjt uiidf r 
by puaiiiing, the ships and crews must inevitably 
be lost, to tiie great affliction and loss of thousands 
of families. In order to prevent such accidents in 
future, which hitherto have been too common, a 
gentleman, of the name of Williams, suggests an 
easy arrangement, which, if universally adopted, 
even under the worst circumstances, will enable 
the crew to save not only themselves, but the ship 
and cargo likewise: — 

It is, that every ship should be divided into four 
equal compartments, w ith partitions of sufficient 
strength; the probability, in case of a leak is, that 
it -would take place ia one of them; and allowing 
it to fill, the safety of the ship would not be endan- 
gered, for 3-4 of the cargo would remain undam- 
aged. To prove this, we will suppose a vessel of 
one hundred tons so divided, (though the plan is 
as applical)le to a ship of one thousand tons as a 
canal boat) and, that one of the compartments fill- 
ed with water: this would not increase her weight 
more than from six to eight tons, from the cargo 
previously occupying the space, and reducing her 
buoyancy about one-third. The same effect would 
take place, was she sent out of port with only one- 
fourtli of her hull above water, though vessels are 
more commonly sent out with one-third, and even 
more. Packets, as they carry little or no cargo, 
may with safety be divided into three compart- 
ments. In cases of fire the advantage is equally 
obvious, as any of the quarters might be inundated 
vith safety. 



Art of siuimtning. 
It has been observeS before, that men are drown- 
ed by raising their arras above the water; the un- 
buoyed weight of which depresses the head: all 
other animals have neither motion nor ability to 
act in a similar manner, and, therefore, swim na- 



turally. When a man therefore falls into deep 
water, he will rise to the surface, and continue 
there if he does not elevate his hands. If he move 
his hands under the water in any manner he pleases, 
his head will rise so high as to allow him liberty 
to breathe; and if he move his legs, as in the act 
of walking, (or rather of walking up stairs), his 
shoulders will rise above the water, so tliat he may 
use less exertion with his hands, or apply them to 
other purposes. These plain directions are recom- 
mended to the attention of those who have not 
learned to swim in their youth, and they will, if" 
attended to, be found highly advantageous in pre- 
serving life. 

If a person falls into the water, or gets out of 
his depth, and cannot swim — and if he wishes to ► 
drown himself, let him kick and splash as vio- 
lently as possible, and he will soon sink. On the 
contrary, if impressed with the idea that he is 
lighter than the water, he avoids all violent action, 
and calmly but steadily strives to refrain from 
drawing in his breath whilst under the water, and 
keeps his head raised as much as possible; and 
gently, but constantly, moves his hands and feet 
ill a proper direction, there will be a great proba- 
bility of his keeping afloat until some aid arrives. 
Cramp in batldug. 

For the cure of the cramp, when swimming, Dr 
Franklin recommends a vigorous and violent shock 
of the part aftected, by suddenly and forcibly 
stretching out the leg, which should be darted out 
of the water, into the air, if possible. 
Precautions in bathing. 

Never venture into cold water, when the body 
is much heated. 

Dr Franklin relates an instance, within his own 
knowledge, of four young men, who, having work- 
ed at liarvest in the heat of the day, with a ■»Tew 
of refreshing themselves, plunged into a spring of 
cold water; two died upon the spot, a third the 
next morning, and the fourth recovered with great 
difficulty. 

Be very careful where you bathe, even though 
ever so good a swimmer, lest there should be weeds 
to entangle the feet, or any thing else to endanger 
life. Itis by the neglect of this jirecaution that 
many good swimmers expose themselves to greater 
danger than those who cannot swim at ali; their 
very expertness thus becoming fatal to them, by 
tempting them into places where their destruction 
is inevitable. 

Sea-bathing. 

The use of the tepid salt water bath, or indeed 
of sea-bathing itself, when tlie water is warm, 
(that is,) between 60 and 80 degrees of heat, is in 
many cases beneficial, when a colder temperature 
would be decidedly injurious. 

It may be satisfactory to know, that in situations 
distant from the shore, where sea-water caninot be 
had, artificial sea-water, made by dissolving 4 lbs. 
of bay-salt in 16 gallons of fresh water, possesses 
all the properties of the water of the sea, a small 
portion of sulphate of magnesia excepted. 
The shower-bath. 

The cold shower-bath is less alarming to ner- 
vous persons, and less liable to produce cramps, 
than cold immersion; it may be considered as iha 
best and safest mode of cold bathing, and is re- 
commended in many nervous complaints. 

It has also afforded relief in some cases of in- 
sanity. 

Substitute for a shower bath. 

Where the saving of expense is an object, it may 
be effectually answered by filling a common water- 
ing pot with cold water. Let the patient sit un- 
dressed upon a stool, whicli may be placed in a 
! large tub, and let the hair, if not cut snort, be 



260 



UNlVEtlSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



spfesrd over the slioiilders as loosely as possible. 
Now pour the water frnin tlie ])0t over the patient's 
: ead, face, neck, shoulders, and all parts of the 
oodv, progressively down to the feet, until the 
■whole has been thoroughly wetted. 

A larfi;e sponge may, in some measure, he sub- 
stituted for the shower bath; particularly in affeu- 
tions of the head, M'hich arise from inteinperance, 
night watching, study, or other perplexity. Head- 
ache, from these causes, will be greatly alleviated 
by wiping the top and fore-part of the head with 
a sponge frequently dipped in water. The cold 
thus produced will check the determination of 
blood to the head, and has often beeu known to 
prevent delirium and insanity. 
The tepid-bath. 

On immersing the body in a tepid-bath, which 
takes its range from 85 to 95 degrees, no striking 
sensation either of heat or cold is felt. But a per- 
son much chilled, will, on entering the tepid-bath, 
feel the water warm, while anotlier, wlio had been 
heated by exercise, will find it insensibly cohl. 

The tepid-bath is attended witli several advan- 
tages: the surface of tiie skin is, by it, freed from 
that scaly matter, wliicii always collects more or 
less in the Healthiest person; the pores of the skin, 
thus being free, the natural perspiration is pro- 
moted, the limbs are rendered supple, and any 
stiffness, which may have been produced by exer- 
tion, or tatigue, is removed. Such immersion has 
been found to allay thirst; a proof that a quantity 
of water is absorbed, and enters tlte body tlirough 
the skin. 

The tepid-bath seems the best adapted to the 
purposes of cleanliness and healthy exercise. To 
delicate females, and young children, it is of pri- 
mary importance. Nothing can be more absurd 
than the common practice of mothers and nurses 
in washing children, no matter how sickly or un- 
well, with cold water, under the idea of bracing 
the constitution: whereas, the use of tepid water 
alone, is not only the most agreeable, but tiie most 
proper fluid to excite the energies of the system 
in young children. 

Affusion with tepid water has generally the 
same result, except, that if the body continue ex- 
])0sed to tlje air after the affusion, a sensation of 
cold is produced, which ought to be avoided, by 
wiping dry tlie upper part of the body, whilst the 
lower extremities are still covered with water. 

There cai\ be little doubt, that human existence, 
by tepid bathing, temperance, and proper exercise, 
may be made more agreeable, and also be pro- 
longed. 



GEjrETlAt atJLES FOR FRESEllVISG LIFE AlTD HEiXTH. 

Sir R. Phillips^s rules. 

1. Rise early, and never sit up late. 

2. Wash the whole body every morning with 
cold water, by means of a large sponge, and rub 
it dry with a rough towel, or scrub the whole body 
/br ten or fifteen minutes with flesh brushes. 

3. Drink water generally, and avoid excess of 
spirits, wine, and fermented liquors. 

4. Keep tlie body open by the free use of the 
syringe, and remove superior ohstructions by ape- 
rient pills. 

5. Sleep in a room whicli has free access to the 
open air. 

6. Keep the head cool by washing it when neces- 
sary witli cold water, and .-ibate feverish and in- 
flammatory symptoms when they arise by perse- 
vering stillness. 

7. Correct symptoms of plethora and indigestion 
by eating and (Irinking less per diem for a few days. 



8. Never eat a heartv supper, especially of ani- 
mal food; and drink wine, spirits, and beer, if 
tliese are ncceRs;(i-y, only after dinner. 
T)r iioerhaave's rtiles. 
This grent man left, as a legacy to tlie world, 
tlic following simple and unerring directions for 
preserving healtli; they contained tlie sum and sub- 
stance of his vast professional knowledge, during 
a long and useful life: — " Keep the feet warm; the 
iicad cool; and the body open." — If tliese were 
generally attended to, the physician's aid would 
seldom be required. 

Clothing, * 

To adapt the dress with a scrupulous nicety to the 
fluctuations of temperature every day, would in- 
deed require such minute attention as hardly any 
person can bestow': but every person may comply 
with tlie general rules of clothing, as far as not to 
lay aside too early the dress of the winter, nor to 
retain that of the summer too late; from a neglect 
of which precaution thousands of lives are every 
year sacrificed to mortality. The perfection of 
dress, considered merely as such, is to fit without 
fettering the body. 

^3ir. 
Nothing is more pernicious than the air of a 
place where a numerous body of jieople are col- 
lected together within doors; especially if to the 
breath of the crowd there be added the vapours of 
a multitude of candles, and the consumption of the 
vital air by fires in proportion. Hence it happens, 
that persons of a delicate constitution are li:il)le to 
become sick or faint in a place of this kind. These 
ought to avoid, as much as possible, the air of great 
towns; which is also peculiarly hurtful to the asth- 
matic and consumptive, as it is likewise to hysteric 
women, and men of weak nerves. Where such 
people cannot always live without the verge of 
great towns, they ought, at least, to go out as often 
as they can into the open air, and, if possible, pass 
the night in tlie wholesome situation of the suburbs. 
Veiitilution. 
Air that has long stagnated becomes extremely 
unwholesome to breathe, and often immediately 
fatal. Such is that of mines, wells, cellars, &c. 
People ought therefore to be very cautious in en- 
tering places of this description which have been 
long shut up. Tiie air of some hospitals, jails, 
ships, &c. partakes of the same unwholesome and 
pernicious nature; and they ought never to be des- 
titute of ventilators — those useful contrivances for 
expelling foul, and introducing fresh air into its 
place. The same may be said of all places where 
numljers of people are crowded together. 

It is found that most plants have the property 
of correcting bad air within a few hours, when 
they are exposed to the light of the sun; but that, 
on the contrary, during the night, or in the shade, 
they corrupt the common air of the atmosphei-e. 
Hence it is a dangerous practice to have shrubs in 
an apartment that is slept in. 

Ventilation of churches. 
Both in public and private buildings there are 
errors committed, which affect in an extraordinary 
degree Ihe salubrity of the air. Churches are sel- 
dom open above once a week; they are never ven- 
■ tilated by fires, and rarely by opening the windows: 
while, to render the air of them yet more unwhole- 
some, little or no attention is paid to keeping them 
clean. The consequence of which is, that they 
are damp, musty, and apt to prove hurtful to peo- 
ple of weak constitutions; and it is a common re- 
mark, that a person cannot pass through a large* 
church or cathedral, even in summer, without a 
strong sense of coolness. 

Ventilation of hornet. 
Tlia greaf attention paid to making lioaaes «iQS8 



MEDICIMS. 



261 



and warm, though appai-ently well adapted to the 
comfort of the inhabitants, is by no means favoura- 
ble to hcaltli, unless care be taken every day to 
admit fresh air by the windows. Sometimes it may 
he proper to make use of wbat is called pumping 
the room, or moving the door backward and for- 
ward for some minutes together. Tlie practice" of 
making the beds early in the daj", however it may 
suit convenience or delicacy, is doubtless impro- 
per, it would be much better to turn them down, 
and expose them to the influence of the air admit- 
ted by the windows. 

For many persons to sleep in one room, as in 
the ward of a hospital, is hurlful to healtli; and 
it is scai'cely a less injurious custom, thougli often 
practised by those who have splendid liouses, for 
two or more to slee]! in a small apartment, especi- 
ally if it be very close. 

Houses situated in low marshy countries, or near 
lakes of stagnating water, are likewise unwhole- 
some; as they partake of the putrid vapours ex- 
haled in such places. To remedy this evil, those 
■who inhabit them, if they study their Iiealth, ouglit 
to use a more generous diet than is requisite in 
more dry and elevated situations. 

liurijing ill, churches, <Jc. 
It is almost every where too common to have 
church-yards in the middle of populous towns. 
This is not only reprehensible in point of taste, 
but, considering how near to the surface of the 
earth the dead bodies in many places are deposited, 
there must necessarily arise putrid vapours, which, 
however imperceptible, cannot fail to contaminate 
tlie air. The practice of burying in churches is 
still more liable to censure; and not ininy j'ears 
ago, tlie pernicious effects of this custom were so 
severely felt in France, as to occasion a positive 
edict against it. 

T(j dissipate noxious vaponrs in -wells, &c. 
Procure a pair of smith's bellows, affixed on a 
wooden frame, so as to work in the same manner 
as at the forge. Tliis api)aratus being placed at 
the edge of the well, one end of a leathern tube, 
(the nose of a fire engine) should be closely adapt- 
ed to the nose of the bellows, and the other end 
thrown into the well, reaching w ithiu one foot of 
the bottom. 

If the well be even so infected, that a candle 
will not burn at a short distance frona the top; af- 
ter blowing with the bellows only half an hour, 
the candle will burn bright at tiie bottom; then, 
■without further difficulty, proceed in the work. 

It is obvious, that in cleaning vaults, or working 
in any subterraneous pl.ice subject to damps, the 
same method must be attended with the like bene- 
ficial effects. 

Persons, whose business requires them to attend 
upon large quantities of fermenting liquors, or to 
■work in close places with lighted charcoal, fre- 
tjuently experience head-ache, giddiness, and other 
ilisagreaabie ettects from the noxious vapours 
■which these exhale, and often have their nealth 
impaired, or their lives endangered by a continu- 
ance in the employment. In some cases, the dan- 
ger, perhaps, cannot be avoided, except by going 
iuto tiie open air, as soon as head-ache or giddiness 
begins, and drinking a glass of cold water, or 
■washing the face and neck with the same. In the 
case of persons whose w ork reqirires charcoal fires, 
the dangerous effects of it m;.y be prevent ed, by 
taking care not to sit near it when burning, or to 
burn it in a chimney, and when there is none, to 
keep the door open, and place a large tub of lime- 
valer in the room. 

To protect gildert, jewellers, and others from the 
per7iici/jiis effects of charcoal. 
It is advisable for all tiiose w ho are exposed to I 



the vapours of charcoal, particularlj' gilders, jew- 
ellers, refiners of metals, inc. to place a flat vessel, 
filled with lime-water, near the stove in which the 
charcoal is burnt. 

The lime strongly attacks the mephitic gas 
evolved by the ignited charcoal, and preserves the 
purity of the air. "When the surface of the water 
becomes covered with a film, or pellicle, it rnust 
be changed for a fresh quantity. 
To prevent lamps from proving pernicious to asth- 
matic persons. 

The smoking of lamps is frequently disregarded 
in domestic life; but the fumes ascending from oil, 
especially if it be tainted or rancid, are highly 
pernicious, when inhaled into the lungs of asth- 
matic persons. To prevent this, let a sponge, 
three or four inches in diameter, be moistened 
with pure water, and in that state be suspended by 
a string or wire, exactly over the flame of the lamp, 
at the distance of a few inches; this substance will- 
absorb all the smoke emitted during the evening 
or night, after which it sliould be rinsed in warm 
water, by which means it will be again rendered 
fit for use. 

Tn disinfect substances of the plague. 

Chlorine has been successfully used in Spain for 
this purpose, in the following manner. 

Expose four ounces of meat in a saucer, tmtil it 
becomes nearly putrid: suspend bits of paper, fur, 
feathers, cotton, silk, and wool, upon hooks fixed 
in a horizontal piece of wood, attached to a jjerpen- 
dicular one, whicii is supported by a pedestal of 
leail; cover the whole with a bell-glass fixed in the 
rim of a piece of wood on which the saucer is 
placed. The edges of the rim should be puttied. 
Fix a cork very tight in the top aperture of the 
bell-glass, and let tiie whole rest in a warm room 
for a fortnight. On witlidra\*ing the cork, the de- 
gree of putrefaction may be easily ascertained. 
When sufficiently impregnated, let each substance 
be taken out in succession, and enveloped in a sheet 
of paper folded like a letter; and suspended on a 
hook in another bell-glass, under whicli materials 
for producing chlorine are placed in a saucer or 
cup. These materials are muriatic acid poured 
over red oxide of lead, or pulverized oxide of 
manganese. In a short lime the putrid odour will 
be dispersed, and the papers, which are intended 
to imitate letters supposed to be infected, will smell 
only of chlorine. Each letter should have three or 
four parallel incisions made in it with a sliarp 
knife, to admit the disinfecting gas more readily. 
To protect gilders from the pernicious effects of 
merciiry. 

They should have two doors in their work room, 
opposite to each other, which they should keep 
open, tlijit there may be a free circulation of air. 
They should likewise have a piece of gold applied 
to the roof of the mouth, during the whole time 
of the operation. 'I'his plate will attract and in- 
tercept the mercury as thej' breathe, and w hen it 
grows white they must cast it into the fire, that 
the mercury may evaporate, and replace it whea 
it is cool again. They should, indeed, have two 
pieces of gold, that one may be put into the mouth 
whilst the other is purifying and cooling; by these 
means they will preserve themselves from the 
diseases and infirmities w hicli mercuiy occasioas. 

Hiding and lualking. c 

For preserving health, there is no kind of exer- 
cise more proper than walking, as it gives the most 
general action to the muscles of the body; but, for 
valetudinarian's, riding on horseback is preferable. 
It is almost incredible how much the constitutioa - 
may be strengthened by this exercise, when conti-' 
nued for a considerable time; not so much in tlte 
fashionable way of a morning vide, but of making 



L'62 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



long journeys, in which there is the Farther advan- 
tage of a perpetual change of air. Numbers of 
people, reduced to a state of great weakness, liave, 
Ijy this means, actiuired a degree of vigour and 
healtli, which all the medical prescriptions in the 
■world could not otherwise iiave procured. But, it 
is of importance, in travelling for health, that one 
should not emplo)' his mind in deep reflections, 
but enjoy the company of an agreeable companion, 
and gratify his sight with the prospect of the va- 
rious objects around him. In tliis exercise, as 
■well as in every other, we ought always to begin 
gently, and to finish gradually, never abruptly. 
Exercise after meals. 
Exercise is hurtful inimediately after meals, 
particularly to those of nervous and irritable con- 
stitutions, Avho are thence liable to heart-burn, 
eructations, and vomiting. Indeed, the instinct of 
the inferior animals confirms the propriety of this 
rule; for they arS all inclined to indulge them- 
selves in rest after food. At all events, fatiguing 
exercise should be delayed till digestion is per- 
formed, ■which generally rerjuires three or four 
hours after eating a full meal. 

Reading aloud. 
This is a species of exercise much recommended 
by the ancient physicians; and to this may be 
joined that of speaking. They are both of great 
advantage to those who have not sufficient leisure 
or opportunities for other kinds of exercise. To 
speak very loud, however, or exercise the voice 
immediately after a meal, is hurtful to the lungs, 
as well as t:o the organs of digestion. Singing, as 
by the vibratory motion of the air it shakes the 
lungs and the bowels of the abdomen or belly, pro- i 
motes, in a remarkable degree, the circulation of i 
the blood. Hence, those sedentar}' artificers or 
mechanics, who, from habit, almost constantly ! 
sing at their work, unintentionally contribute much 
to tbe preservation of their health. 
IVind instruments. 
All these are more or less hurtful to the lungs, 
■which they weaken, by introducing much air, and 
keeping that organ too long in a state of disten- 
tion. On this account, persons of weak lungs, who 
play much on the flute, hautboy, or French horn, 
are frequently afflicted with spitting of" blood, 
cough, shortness of breath, and pulmonary con- 
sumption. Blowing those instruments likewise 
checks the circulation of the blood through the 
lungs, accumulates it towards the head, and dis- 
poses such persons to apojtlexy. 
Friction. 
One of the most gentle and useful kinds of exer- 
cise, is friction of the body, either by the naked 
hand, a piece of flannel, or what is still better, a 
flesh brush. This was in great esteem among the 
ancients, and is so at present in the East Indies. 
The whole body may be subjected to this mild ope- 
ra'tion, but chiefly the belly, the spine, or back- 
bone, and the arms and legs. Friction clears the 
skin, resolves stagnating humours, promotes per- 
spiration, strengthens the fibres, and increases ilie 
warmth and energy of tlie whole body. In rheu- 
matism, gout, palsy, and green sickness, it is an 
excellent remedy. To the sedentary, the hypo- 
chondriac, and persons troubled with indigestion, 
■who have not leisure to take sufficient exercise, 
the daily friction of the belly, in particular, cannot 
be too much recommended as a substitute for other 
means, in order to dissolve the thick humours 
■which may be forming in the bowels, by stagna- 
tion, and to strengthen the vessels. But, in rub- 
bing the belly, the operation ought to be per- 
formed in a circular direction, as being most fa- 
vourable to the course of the intestines, and their 
natiu-al action. It should be performed in the 



morning, on an empty stomacn, or, rather, in bed, 
before getting up, and continued, at least, for some 
minutes at a time. 

Getting tvet. 

This accident is at all times less frequent ia 
towns than in the country, especially since the use 
of tlie umbrella has been introduced. 

When a person is wet he ought never to stand 
but to continue in motion till he airives at a place 
where he may be suitably accommodated. Here 
he should strip off his wet clothe^, to be changed 
for such as are dry, and have those parts of his 
body which have been wetted, well rubbed with a 
diy cloth. The legs, shoiddcrs, and arms, are 
generally the parts most exposed to wet: they 
should, therefore, he particularly attended to. It 
is almost incredible how many diseases may be 
prevented by adopting this course. Catarrhs, in- 
flammations, rheumatisms, diarrhoeas, fevers, and 
consumptions, are the foremast among the train 
which frequently follow an accident of this kind. 
Precautions in removing from a hoi to a cold situa* 
tion. 

It should be a determined rule to avoid all rapid 
transitions from one extreme to another, and never 
to remove from a room highly heated, to a fresh or 
cold air, while tlie body remains warm, or till the 
necessary change to a warmer dress has been pre- 
viously made. If, at any time, the body should be 
violently heated, during the warm weather, it is 
sure to suffer by going into ■vaults, cellars, ice- 
houses, Ijy cold bathing, or by sitting on cold 
stones, or damp eartii: many lingering and incura- 
ble maladies have been brought on by such impru- 
dence, nay, pi'esent death has, in some instances, 
been the consequence of such transgression. Pul- 
monary consumption, which makes annually such 
dreadful ravages among the young and middle 
aged, has been frequently induced by such appa- 
rently trifling causes. 

To keep the feet dry. 

The only method that has been found to succeed 
in keeping the feet dry is to wear, over ti\e foot of 
the stocking, a sock made of oil silk. To keep it 
in its proper place, it will be necessary to wear 
over it a cotlon or worsted sock. The general 
health being often disturbed by wet feet, the above 
directions ought to be generally attended to. 
7 preserve the eye-sight. 

Never sit for any length of time in absolute 
gloom, or exposed to a blaze of light. The reasoi» 
on which this rule is founded, proves the impro- 
priety of going hastily from one extreme to the 
other, whether of darkness or of light, and shows 
us that a southern aspect is improper for those 
whose sight is weak and tender. 

2. Avoid reading small print, and straining the 
eyes by looking at minute objects. 

3. Do not read in the dusk, nor, if the eyes be 
disordered, by candle light. 

4. Do not permit the eyes to dwell on'g:laring 
objects, more particularly on first waking in the 
morning; the sun should not of course be suffered 
to shine in the room at that time, and a moderate 
quantity of light, only, should be admitted. For 
the same reasons, the furniture, walls, and other 
objects of a bed-room, should not be altogether 
of a white or glaring colour: indeed, those whose 
eyes are weak, would find considerable advantage 
in having green for the furniture, and prevailing 
colour, of their bed-chambers. Nature confirms 
the propriety of this fact, for the light of the day 
comes on by slow degrees, and green is the uni- 
versal colour she presents to our eyes. 

5. Those individuals who are rather long-sight- 
ed, should accustom themselves to read with less 
light, and ■with the book somewhat nearer to the 



MEDICINE. 



263 



eye than what they naturally like; while others, 
that are rather short-sighted, should use themselves 
to read with tiie book as far off as possible. By 
these means, both will improve and strengthen 
their sight, while a contrary course increases its 
natural imperfections. 

Uae of spectacles. 
From whatever cause the decay of sight arises, 
an attentive consideration of the following rules 
will enable any one to judge for himself, whea his' 
eye-sight may be assisted or preserved by the use 
of proper glasses. 

1. When we are obliged to remove small oh- 
jects to a considerable distance from the ej'e in 
order to see them distinctly. 

2. If we find it necessary to get more light than 
formerly, as, for instance, to place the candle be- 
tween the eye and the object. 

3. If, on lookingiat, and attentively considering 
a near object, it fatigues the eye and becomes con- 
fused, or if it appears to have a kind of dimness 
or mist before it. 

4. When small printed letters are seen to run 
into each other, and hence, by looking steadfastly 
on them, appear double or treble. 

5. If the eyes are so fatigued by a little exercise, 
that we are obliged to shut them from time to 
lime, so as to relieve them by looking at difterent 
objects. 

When all these circumstances concur, or any of 
them separately takes place, it will be necessary 
10 seek assistance from glasses, which will ease 
the eyes, and in some degree check their tendency 
to become worse: whereas, if they be not assisted 
in time, the weakness will be considerably increas- 
ed, and the eyes be impaired by the efforts they 
are compelled to exert. 

Cosmetics. 

To set off the complexion with all the advantage 
it can attain, notiiing more is requisite than to 
wash the face with pure water; or, if any thing 
farther be occasionally necessaiy, it is only the 
addition of a little soap. 

The teeth. 

An object very subservient to health, and which 
merits due attention, is the preservation of the 
teeth; the care of which, considering their import- 
ance in preparing the food for digestion, is, in 
general, far from being sufficiently cultivated. 
Very few persons, comparatively, wash their mouth 
in the morning, which ought always to be done. 
Indeed, this ought to be practised at the conolusion 
of every meal, where either animal food or vegeta- 
bles are eaten; for the former is apt to leave behind 
it a rancid acrimony, and the latter an acidity, both 
of them hurtful to the teeth. Washing the mouth 
frequently with cold water is not only serviceable 
in keeping the teeth clean, but in strengthening 
the gums, the firm adhesion of which to the teeth 
is of great importance in preserving them sound 
and secure. 

Tooth powders. 

Many persons, while laudably attentive to pre- 
serve their teeth, do them hurt by too much offi- 
ciousness. They daily apply to them some denti- 
frice powder, which they rub so hard as not only 
to injure the enamel by excessive friction, but to 
hurt the gums even more than by the abuse of the 
pick tooth. The quality of some of the dentifrice 
powders, advertised in newspapers, is extremely 
suspicious; and there is reason to tiilnk that they 
are not altogether free from a corrosive ingredient. 
One of the safest and best compositions for the 
pm-pose is a mixture of two parts of scuttlefish 
bone, and one of the Peruvian bark, both finely 
powdered, which is calculated not only to clean tlie 



teeth without hurting them, but to preserve the 
firmness of tlie gums. 

Besides the advantage of sound teeth, for their 
use in mastication, a proper attention to their 
treatment conduces not a little to the sweetness of 
tlie breath. Tliis is, indeed, often affected by 
other causes, existing in the lungs, the stomach, 
and sometimes even in the bowels; but a rotten 
state of the teeth, both from the putrid smell emit- 
ted by carious bones, and the impurities lodged in 
their cavities, never fails of aggravating an unpleas- 
ant breath wherever there is a tendency of that 
kind. 

Loose teeth. 

When the teeth are loosened by external vio- 
lence, by falls and blows, or by tlie improper use 
of instruments in pulling diseased teeth in tlie 
neighbourhood of sound ones, they maj' again be 
made tolerably fast by pressing them as firmly as 
possible into their sockets, and preserving them 
so with ligatures of cat-gut, Indian wee^l, or waxed 
silk, and keeping the patient upon spoon meat till 
they are firm. When loose teeth are owing to 
tartar, nothing will fasten them till the cause be 
removed; and this ought to be done early, other- 
wise it will have no effect. Frequentlj' the teeth 
become loose from a sponginess of the gums, 
often, but improperly, attributed to scurvy. The 
best remedy is scarifying the gums deeply, and 
allowing them to bleed freely; this should be re- 
peated till they are fully fastened. Mild astrin- 
gents, as tincture of bark, are here attended with 
good effects, though those of a strong nature will 
certainly do harm. The mouth should be fre- 
quently washed with cold water strongly impreg- 
nated with tliese, and the patient should not use 
the teeth which have been loose till they become 
firm again. The loosening of the teeth in old age 
cannot be remedied, as it is owing to a wasting of 
their sockets, from which the teeth lose their sup- 
port. 

Fold teeth. 

The teeth sometimes become yellow or black 
without any adventitious matter being observed on 
them; at other times they become foul, and give a 
taint to the breath, in consequence of the natural 
mucus of the mouth, or part of the food remain- 
ing too long about them. The most frequent 
cause of foul teeth is the substance called tartar, 
which seems to be a deposition from the saliva, 
and with which the teeth are often almost entirely 
encrusted. When this substance is allowed to re- 
main, it insinuates itself between the gums and 
the teeth, and then gets down upon the jaw in such 
a manner as to loosen the teeth. This, indeed, is 
by far the most common cause of loose teeth; and 
when they have been long covered with this or 
with any other matter, it is seldom they can be 
cleaned without the assistance of instruments. But 
when once they are cleaned, they may generally 
be kept so, by rubbing them with a thin piece of 
soft wood made into a kind of brush, and dipped 
into distilled vinegar; after which the mouth is to 
be washed with common Avater. 

Cleaning the teeth. 

When the teeth are to be cleaned by instruments, 
the operator ought, with a linen cloth or with a 
glove, to press against the points of the teeth, so 
as to keep them firm in their sockets, with the 
fingers of the one hand, while he cleans them with 
the necessary instruments held in the other; taking 
care not to scrape them so hard as to loosen them, 
or to rub oft' the enamel. This being done, the 
teeth should be rubbed over with a small brush, or 
a piece of sponge dipped in a mixture of cream 
of tartar and Peruvian bark. The same applica- 



264 



uxi\t:rsal receipt book. 



tion roay be made to the teeth for a few days, when 
afterwards they naiiy be kept clean as already di- 
reited. 

The teeth are sometimes covered over with a 
thin dark coloured scurf, which has by some been 
mistaken for a wasting of the enamel, but whicii 
is only an extraneous matter covering it. JJy per- 
severance this may be cleaned oft' as completely 
as where the teeth are covered with tartar; but it 
:s apt, after some time, to appear again. When this 
IS observed, the same operation must be repeated. 



For the purpose of applying powders or washeB 
to the teeth, a brush or a sponge is commonly em-n 
ployed; the latter is supposed preferable, as bein.? 
in less danger of wearing down the enamel, or of 
separating tlie teeth. 

JMeamring gJasaes. 
In order to measure quantities of fluids, glasses, 
graduated on their sides (according to the following; 
figiUH^), will be found useful in all families aixl 
private laboratories: — 





4i 



5lM. 



/^rzzri 



No. 1. represents a glass, calculated to measure 
any quantity from two drachms to eight ounces. 

No. '2. From one draciim to two ounces. 

No. 3. From half a drachm to one ounce. — And 

No. 4. Any quantity from ftve minims (or drops) 
to one drachm. 

Weights and measures. 

By the following tables it will be seen that in the 
..Pleasure of Jtidds, 
1 gallon measure contains R pints, 

1 piiit \<\ ounces, 

1 ounce 8 drachms, 

1 dracliixi 60 minims. 

Weight of dry sidistances. 
1 pound contains 12 ounces, 

1 ounce S draciiras, 

1 drachm 60 grains, 

1 scruple 20 grs. or 

1-3 of a drachm. 

It is customary to distinguish quantities of fluids 



from diy substances, by prefixing tlie letter f (fluid) 
when an ounce or drachm is mentioned in medical 
works, but in the foregoing prescript ions or formulie, 
this was considered to be unnecessary, as the slight- 
est acquaintance with the substances to be used, will 
point out what is implied. 

Scale of medicinal doses. 

The following table of the gradations of doses 
of medicines for ditfereiit ages, will in general be 
found pretty correct, and ought never to be deviated 
from, except by professional advice. 

If at the age of manhood the dose be one drachm, 
the proportions will be at 

F'rom 14 to 21 years, 2 scrujiles; 7 to 14 years, 
half a drachm; 4 to 7 years, 1 scruple; 4 years, 
15 grains; 3 years, half a scruple; 2 years, S grains; 
1 year, 5 grains; 6 months, 3 grains; 3 mouths, 2 
grains; 1 month, 1 grain, 



To cure -rounds in cattle. 
When horses, cattle, or any of our domestic 
animals are woundeil, tiie treatment may be very 
simple, and much the same as in tlie human race. 
It is extremely improper to follow a practice that 
13 common in man)' parts of the couniry among 
farriers, cow doctors, and even sliepherds — that of 
applying to the wound, or putting into the sore 
part, cummon salt, powder of blue vitriol, or tar, 
or cloths dipped in sj)irits, as brandy, rum, &c. 
or turpentine, or any otiier stimulant articles; for 
all such very much increase llie pain, and by irri- 
tating the sore, may increase the inflammation 
even to the length of inducing mortification. — 
Though the treatment may be varied according to 



circumstances, yet, in most cases, it may be suffi- 
cient to take notice of the following particulars: — 
It will be proper to wash away any foulness or dirt 
about the part, and to examine particularly its con- 
dition. 

To stop the bleeding. 
Should any large blood-vessel be cut, and dis- 
charging copiously, it will be right to stop it, by 
some lint or sponge, with moderate compression, 
or bandaging, at the same time, and not taking it 
oft' for two or three days. Should the pressure 
fail of eft'ect, caustic applications, such as the lu- 
nar caustic, or even the actual cautery, the point 
of a thick wire, sufficiently heated, may be tried; 
or, if a surgeon be at hand, the vessel may be 



FARRIERY. 



266 



taken up by the crooked needle, with waxed thread, 
and then tied. 

Adhesive plaster and sewing. 
Where tliere is no danger of excessive bleeding, 
and a mere division of the parts, or a deep gash 
or cut, it will be right to adjust the parts, and keep 
tliem together by a sti-ip of any common adhesive 
plaster; or, when this will not tlo by itself, tiie lips 
of the wound, especially if it be a clean cut, may 
he closed by one or more stitches, witl» a mode- 
rately coarse needle and thread, wliich in each 
stitch may be tied, and the ends left of a proper 
length, so that they can be afterwards removed 
when the parts adhere. It is advised to tie the 
threads, because sometimes the Wounded part 
swells so much that it is difficult to get tliem cut 
and drawu out, without giving pain aud doing some 
mischief. 

JDandages. 
If the part will allow a roller or bandage to be 
used, to keep tlie lips of it together, this may like- 
wise be employed; for by supporting tiie sides of 
the wound, it would lessen any pain which the 
stitches occasion. AVith this treatment the wound 
heals often in a short time, or in a few days, rare- 
ly exceeding five or six, and sooner in the young 
and healthy, than in the old and relaxed, and soon- 
er in the quiet and motionless, than in the restless 
and active. 

Sliould the wound be large, and inflammation, 
with the discharge of matter, likely to take place, 
it may still be proper, by gentle means, to bring 
the divided parts near to each other, and to retain 
tiiem in their natural situation by means of a ban- 
dage. This should not be made too tight, but 
merely to support the part. In this way, and by 
avoiding stinmlant applications, the wound will 
heal more readily than otherwise, and the chance 
of any blemish following will be diminished. 
Washes of spirits, brandy, and the like. Friar's 
balsam, spirit of Mine and camphor, turpentine, 
or any other such irritating applications, are high- 
ly improper, and sometimes make a fresh clean 
wound, (that would readily heal almost of itself,) 
iuSamw and perhaps mortify, or become a bad sore. 
Sores and bndses. 
Over the whole sore, or where tlie part is bruis- 
ed, or where there is a tendency to suppuration, a 
poultice sliould be applied and kept on by suitable 
bandages. The poultice may be made of any kind 
of meal, fine bran, bruised linseed, or of mashed 
turnips, carrots, Sec. The following has been 
found useful as a common poultjce. "Fine bran, 
1 quart; pour on it a sufficient quantity of boiling 
water to make a thin paste; to this add of linseed 
powder enough to give it a proper consistence." 
The poultice may be kept on for a week or ten 
days, or even longer, if necessary, changing it 
once or twice a day; and cleaning the wound, when 
the poultice is removed, by washing it by means 
of a soft rag or linen cloth, with water not more 
than blood warm, (some sponges are too rougli for 
this purpose); or, where the wound is deep, the 
water may be injected into it by a syringe, in or- 
der to clean it from the bottom. 
Ointment. 
In the course of a few days, when the wound, by 
care and proper management with the poultices, 
begins to put on a healthy appearance, and seems 
to be clean and of a reddish colour, not black or 
bloody, tlien there may be applied an ointment 
made of tallow, linseed oil, bees' wax, and liogs' 
iard, in such proportion as to make it of a consis- 
tence somewiiat firmer than butter. The ointment ' 
should be spread on some soft clean tow, and when ! 
applied to the sore, it ought never to be tied hard i 
upon it, (which is done too frequently and very i 
2 f 



impropeily,) but only fi.^ed by a bandage of a pro- 
per lengtii and breadth, (for a mere cord is often 
improper,) so close and securely as to keep it 
trom slipping off. This application may be chang- 
ed once a day; or when nearly well, and discharg- 
irig but little, once in two days. 

Green ointment for -iuounds. 
Put into a well glazed earthen vessel, 2 ounces 
of bees' wax; melt it over a clear fire, and add 2 
ounces of rosin; wlien that is melted, put in half 
a pound of liogs' lard; to this put 4 ounces of tur- 
pentine; keep stirring all the time with a dean 
stick or wooden spatula. "W'lien all is well mixed, 
stir in 1 ounce of finely powdered verdigris. Ee 
careful it does not boil over; strain it through a 
coarse cloth, and preserve it in a gallipot. This 
ointment is very good for old and recent wounds, 
whether in fiesh or hoof; also galled backs, crack 
ed heels, mallenders, sallenders, bites, broker, 
knees, &c. 
Treatment, according to appearance of the part. ' 
M'hen the wounded part begins to discbarge : 
whitish, thick matter, and is observed to fill up 
the general treatment and dressings to the sore, 
now mentioned, should be continued: and in the 
course of the cure, the animal, when free of fever, 
may be allowed better provision, and may take 
gentle exercise. If the animal be feeble, from the 
loss of blood originally, or from the long continu- 
ance of a feverish state, produced by the inflam- 
mation attending the wound, or from weakness 
arising from confinement, or connected with its 
constitution naturally; and if the wound appear to 
L^- in a stationary state, very pale and flabby on its 
edges, with a thin discliarge, then better food may 
be given to it; and if still no change should be ob- 
served, along with the better foodj the wound raav 
be treated somewiiat dift'erently from what has 
been already advised. The ointment may be made 
more stimulant, by adding to it some resin and less 
bees' wax, or what would be more stimulant still, 
some common turpentine; for it is only in very rare 
cases that oil of turpentine can be requisite. The 
effects of an alteration in the mode of treatment 
should be particularly remarked, and stimidants 
should be laid aside, continued or increased, ac- 
cording as may be jud^'ed proper. Before chang- 
ing the dressings applied to the wound, or before 
rendering them more stimulantand active by using 
heating applications, the cftect of closer bandaging 
maybe tried; for sometimes, by keeping the parts 
a little more firmly together, the cure is promoted. 
Food and regimen. 
In case of severe wounds, attention shoidd be 
paid to the condition of the animal in other res- 
pects. There being always when such liappen a 
tendency to violent inflammation and fever, that 
may end fatally^ means sliould be employed to 
moderate both. Tlie apartment should be cool and 
airy, and so quiet that the animal should not be 
disturbed; the drink should not be warm but rather 
cold, and given freely, though not in too large 
quantities at a time; llie food should be sparingly 
given, and of a poorer quality than usual, aud 
sliould be rather succulent and laxative, than dry 
or apt to produce costiveness; bleeding may be 
employed either generally from a vein, or in some 
cases, when it can be done, hy cupping from the 
hurt part, as in the case of a bruise (though this 
last will seldom be requisite or found convenient), 
and it may be done more than once or twice, as 
iT»ay seem proper; laxative medicines also ought 
to oe given and repeated, as there may be occasion. 
Abscess. 
These are swellings containing matter, that make 
their appearance iu difterent parts of the bodyi 
The remedies are, first, to bleed, then to wash 



266 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the swollen part with a quart of vinegar, in which 
are dissolved two ounces of sal ammoniac, and 
Half an ounce of sugar of lead. If the swelling 
does not abate in two or three days, apply the sup- 
purating poultice. When the tumour becomes 
fioft and points, open it with a lancet, and let out 
the matter. Then (hess it with basilicon ointment. 
jlnbi'.rtf or ivnrt. 

Tie a strong silk, or two or three horse-hairs, 
round the neck of the wart, tightening it gradual- 
ly till it falls away. Then dip a \)iece of tow in 
alum-water and bind it on the spot for a whole day. 
Heal the sore with the green ointment. 
The staggers. 

Bleed the animal copiously, (the disease isa true 
apoplexy), 2^ quarts at once; tlien give him half a 
pint of linseed oil, the same of castor oil, 40 grains 
of calomel, 60 do. of jalap, and two ounces of 
tincture of aloes. Give him twice a day warm 
bran mashes. 

For loss of appetite. 

Take a quart of blood' from the neck, and give 
him a purging ball made as follows: Aloes, I oz. 
>alap, I drachm, rhubarb, 1 do. made into a ball 
with ca«stor oil and half a draclim of ginger. 
Inflamed bladder. 

Alake the animal drink largely of flaxseed tea, 
barley or rice water, or any mucilaginous liquid, 
and inject a portion of tlie same freijuenlly. Bleed- 
ing, and a dose of castor oil are never to be 
omitted. After the oil has operated, give the fol- 
lowing ball every sixth hour: Powdered nitre, half 
an ounce, camphor, 1 drachm, liquorice powder, 
3 drs. honey sufficient to form the ball. Should 
these means not relieve the animal, omit the ball, 
and give 1 drachm of opium twice a day. 
Blood spat>in. 

Clip off the hair from the swelling, and rub all 
round outside of the swelling witli a piece of hard 
brown soap, then apply to the swelling a blister 
made of the following 

JBlistering omtme?it. 

Hogs' lard, half an ounce, bees' wax, 3 drachms, 
sublimate, in fine powder, half a drachm, Spanish 
flies, 2 drachms. Mix them all well, and spread 
it on white leaUier, and apply it to the spavin. 
Hone spavi?i. 

This may be treated like the former; it is, how- 
ever, generally incurable. The operation of firing 
(which should be done by a professed farrier), and 
turning to grass, aftbrd tlie only i-easonable chances 
of relief. 

JBots. 

Three kinds of worms infest the bowels of hor- 
ses, called by the English farriers bots, truncheons, 
and maw-worms. The bot infests the great gut 
near the anus; it is a small worm with a large 
head, and may be frequently observed in the dung. 

The truncheon is short and thick, with a black, 
ish head, and is found in the maw, where, if suf- 
fered to remain, it sometimes piei'ces tlirough, and 
thus is many a fine horse destroyed. 

The maw-worm is of a pale red colour, resem- 
bling an earth worm, from two to three inches long, 
occupying, also, the maw. 

_ Symptoms of worms in horses. 

Stamping forcibly on the ground with either of 
his fore-feet, and frequently striking at his belly 
with his hind ones. Belly projecting and hard — 
looking frequently behind him, and groaning as if 
in great pain. 

Remedies for -worms. 

Keep the horse from all kinds of food for one 
day; at night, give him a small quantity of warm 
bran mash, made as usual, and directly after, a ball 
made of 1 scruple of calomel, 1 do. of turpeth 
mineral, and as much crumb of bread and honey 



as will form the mass. Next evening give him a 
pint of castor, and half a pint of linseed oil. The 
animal is then to be fed as usual for two or three 
days, and the same plan again to be employed. 
Inflammation of the bowels. 

This not veiy common, but when it does occur 
dangerous, disorder is of two kinds. The first or 
peritoneal inflammation begins with an appearance 
of dulness and uneasiness in the animal; appetite 
diminished or totally gone; constant pawing with 
the fore feet, frequently trying to kick the belly; 
he lies down, rises suddenly, looks round to his 
flanks — countenance strongly expressive of pain; 
urine small, high coloured, and voided with great 
pain; pulse quick and small; legs and ears cold; 
profuse sweats; mortification and death. 

The second species of the disorder is when thi 
inflammation attacks the internal coat of the intes- 
tines, and is generally accompanied by a violent 
purging and some fever — the symptoms of the lat- 
ter, however, are much less violent, nor does the 
animal appear to be in so much pain. 
Treatment. 

In the first or peritoneal inflammation, the only 
dependence is on early and large bleedings. In 
addition to this rub the whole belly well with the 
mustard embrocation, clothe the animal warmly 
(with fresh sheep skins if possible), insert several 
rowels about the chest and belly, putting into them 
the blistering ointment. As the horse is generally 
costive give him a pint of castor oil, and inject 
clysters of warm flaxseed tea, give him warm water 
or thin gruel or flaxseed tea to drink, rub his legs 
with the hands well, and see that he has plenty of 
clean fresh litter. If in six hours the disease is 
not relieved, bleed him again, and should the cos- 
tiveness continue repeat the oil and clysters. ' If, 
after giving all these remedies a faithful and con- 
tinued trial, the pain should continue, recourse 
may be had to the anodyne clyster. 

In the second species of this disorder, bleeding 
need not be resorted to unless the febrile symptoms 
run high. Clothe the horse warmly, use the mus- 
tard embrocation freely, and omit the oil. Give 
him frequently by means of a bottle (if he will not 
drink it) quantities of very thin gruel or flaxseed 
tea. If in spite of this the disease continues, use 
the anodyne clyster; if that fail the astringent 
draught. The pain occasioned by physicking, is 
to be relieved by large clysters of thin gruel or 
flaxseed, which produce copious evacuations and 
relief. 

Broken wind. 

This is an incurable disease; all that can be done 
is to relieve the animal for a time so as to enable 
him to perform a day's work. To do this make 
the following 

Paste ball for broken-winded horses. 

Assafcetida two ounces, elecampane two ounces, 
flowers of colt's-foot two ounces, powdered squills 
two drachms, linseed powder one ounce, honey as 
much as will make the mass. Divide it in four 
balls and give one morning and evenmg. Much 
benefit may result from bleeding in this disorder 
at an early period of the complaint. His food 
should be carrots or turnips. The hay, oats, or 
whatever is given, should be in small quantities at 
a time, and always sprinkled with clean, soft 
water. 

Broken knees. 

Apply a poultice of bread and milk or bread apd 
warm water to i-educe the inflammation, then dress 
the wound with basilicon. 

Bums or scalds. 

If slight, apply cold lead water; if extensive, a 
liniment made of equal parts of linseed oil and 
lime water. If there is much fever bleed. 



FARRIERY. 



26': 



Canker. 

Cut away freely all the diseased parts, and if 
necessary dvAw the frog, then apply the 
Liniment for canker. 

Warm 6 ounces of tar, mix with it drop by drop 
1 oz. by measure of oil of vitriol, then add 1 oz. 
of oil of turpentine. Bind this firmly on the part, 
destroying all tlie diseased protuberances with lu- 
nar caustic. When the wound looks healthy, dress 
it with the green ointment. 

Capped hocks. 

If the swelling proceed from a bruise or a blow, 
\)alhe it three or four times a day with salt and 
vinegar made warm. If it proceed from a natural 
cause, apply the suppurating poultice, and when 
matter is formed let it out, then use the green 
ointment. 

Cold. 

Take a quart of blood from the neck, then give 
•warm mashes with a scruple of nitre in them. 
I'urgewitii castor and linseed oil, and keep the 
stable warm. 

Convulsions. 

Symptoms. — The horse raises liis head higher, 
•tnaii usual and pricks up liis ears — neck stiff and 
immovable, skin tight. He stands in a straddling 
posture, pants and breathes with difficulty. 

Cure Bleed him if his strength will permit it, 

and his pulse is high, eye red, &c. otherwise not. 
If you observe bols or any other kind of worms, 
pursue the treatment recommended for them. 
Cough. 

Take a quart of blood from the neck, and give 
the following 

Jiall for cough. 

Half an ounce of Venice soap, half an ounce of 
nitre, ten grains of tartar emetic, and ten grains 
of opium. Make these into a ball with honey, and 
give one every other night. Keep tiie horse warm 
and remedy cosliveness by castor oil. 
CoriK. 

Let the farrier cut them out with a sharp knife. 
Should they show a disposition to grow again, touch 
them with oil of vitriol or caustic and dress them 
■with green ointment. Be careful in shoeing not 
to let the shoe press on the corn. 
Curb. 

Cauterhze the curb in a line down its middle and 
then apply the blistering ointment. 
Cracked heels. 

Poultice the parts with carrots or turnips boiled 
soft three or four times, then anoint tliem with yel- 
low basilicon mixed with a little green ointment. 
The gripes. 

As soon as the disease is observed, give the 
draught below, and a clyster composed of 8 oz. 
common salt in six quarts of water gruel or warm 
■water. If there is great pain witli quick pulse, 
take away three quarts of blood. The belly should 
be well rubbed with the mustard or other stimu- 
lating embrocation. If no relief is obtained in 
two hours repeat the draught and embrocation, 
and should even this fail give him a pint of castor 
oil with one and a half ounces of laudanum. If 
castor oil cannot be had a pint and a quarter of 
linseed oil may be used. 

Draught for gripes. 

Balsam copaiva 1 oz. oil of juniper 1 drachm, 
spirit of nitrous ether half an ounce, mint water 
1 pint. Mix for one dose. 

Diabetes. 

This disorder, which consists in an involuntary 
discharge of the urine, which is pale and thin, fre- 
quently proves fatal. To cure it, take a quart of 
blood from the neck and give the following 
Ball for diabetes. 

Peruvian bark four drachms, ginger one drachm^ 



if costive after it, give a pint of castor oil. Repea 
if necessary, 

Eyes. 

Inflammation of the ej'es is often cured by sca»- 
rifying with a lancet the inside of the upper and 
lower brow, and the distended vessels of the eye 
itself. It is to be remembered that in treating ar 
inflammation of this important organ, we should 
|)roceed precisely as if treating a human being 
labouring under the same complaint, and keep the 
animal on sliort alloM'ance, prevent costiveness, 
keep the stable cool and dark. 

Soreness or weakness of the eyes is cured by 
bleeding from the neck and using the following 
Eye-ivater. 

To one quart of water put three drachms of tlie 
sugar of lead and two drachms of white vitriol. 
Wiien dissolved let it settle and pour ofi^ the clear 
liquor for use. A drop may be put into each eye 
three times a day with a feather. 
Film or cataract. 

There is no remedy for this but an experiencecl 
farrier. I'here are a variety of washes, &c. re- 
commended by various authors, but they are use- 
less. 

Farcy. 

This disease commences in small hard knots, 
which soon become soft and ulcerous, generally 
situated on tiie veins and extending upwards. It 
is a contagious disorder, and not unfrequently ends 
in the glanders. 

Cure for farcy. 

Open the ulcers and touch the inside of the 
edges slightly with powdered verdigrease, by 
means of a camel's hair pencil. At the same time 
give the following ball: White arsenic eight 
grains, and corrosive sublimate six grains, pow- 
dered and mixed with flour or bread or any other 
vehicle that will form a ball with molasses. Keep 
the animal warm, mix chopped carrots with his 
mashes. Intermit one day and give asimilar ball 
— if it purge add 10 grains of opium to it. Attend 
constantly to the ulcers; wash them witli warm 
soap-suds, and keep the animal by himself — if the 
disease gains the nostrils and head, and becomes 
glanders, shoot him at once. There is no remedy. 
Grease. 

Wash the part well with warm soap-suds twice 
a day, and if the swelling is great apply a poultice 
to it, when the sores are cleansed touch them ■with 
a rag or feather dipped in the vulnerary water. 
Foundered feet. 

This is known by the contraction of the hoof, 
which will appear considerably smaller than the 
sound one. The horse just touches the ground 
with the toe of the foundered foot on account of 
pain, and stands in such a tottering way that you 
may shove him over with your hand. 

Cure Take oft'tlie shoe, bleed freely from the 

thigh vein, and purge two or three times. Keep 
the hair close trimmed and the parts clean. 
Hoof-bonnd. 

Cut down several lines from the coronet down 
to the toe all round the hoof and fill the cuts with 
tallow and soap mixed. Take oflf the shoes and 
(if you can spare him) turn the animal into a wet 
meadow, where his feet will be kept moist. Never 
remove the sole nor burn the lines down, as this 
increases the evil. 

Lampas. 

This consists in a swelling of the first bar of the 
upper palate. It is cured by rubbing the swelling 
two or three times a day with lialf an ounce of 
alum and the same quantity of double refined sugar 
mixed with a little honey. 

Laxity. 

Never attempt to stop the discharge too sudden- 



268 



UNI\TERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



ly or too soon; this comraon but en-oneous practice 
has killed many tine horses. To Uegin the cure 
give hiin the t'ollowiu!^ 

^Mild purging ball. 

Rluibarb in powder I ounce, magnesia half an 
ounce, calomel 1 scruple, oil of aniseed 1 drachm, 
make up a bull ^vitli honey and liquorice powder. 
Next day give llie horse I fluid ounce of liijuid 
laudanum, with "20 grains of tartar enietic in a pint 
of Mater. On the third day repeat the purge, then 
the drench, until the animal is well. 
Inflammation of the lungs. 

Bleed the animal copiously as soon as the cora- 
l)Iaint is perceived, and repeat it in six hours if the 
fever, quickness of breathing, &cc. do not abate. 
Blister his sides, rowel the chest, O-id give the 
following ball, which is to be taken morning and 
eveuing until tlie staling is considerably increased, 
one a day will then be sufricient. 'Grass or bran 
mashes should be the food. 

The ball. — Powdered nitre 6 drachms, camphor 
1 drachm, as much syrup and linseed meal as will 
form the ball, 

j\lallenders. 

Wash the ci-acks well with warm soap-suds and 
a sponge, and then with the vulneraiy water twice 
every day, wipe the parts dry and apply the greeu 
ointment. 

Mange. 
' Wash with soap-suds and vulneraiy water, and 
purge with castor oil. Peed the horse well and 
work him moderately. 

JMfillen grease. 

Bleed and purge moderately, feed regularly on 
a diminished allowance. 

Poll evil. 

Bring the swelling to a head as any other tumour 
by the suppurating poultice, which is made as 
follows: 

Suppurating poultice. 

Take four handsful of bran and three middling 
sized turnii)S, boil them till soft, beat them well 
together; then boil them again in milk to a thick 
poultice, adding to it 2 ounces of linseed auei half 
a pound of hog's lard. 

Quittor. 

Make an opening for the matter to descend 
from all the neighbouring sinuses. Keep the parts 
well cleaned with warm soap-suds, then inject tlie 
vulnerary water into the sinuses. If tiiere is a 
core touch it with caustic, when this is discharged 
dress with the green ointment. 
Ring bone. 

If recent blister the part, if an old afl'ection re- 
course must be had to firing. 

Sand-crack. 

Remove the shoe and ascertain carefully the ex- 
tent of the injury; if the crack is superticial, till 
it with the composition below, and keep the foot 
cool and moist. If "the crack has extended to the 
sensible parts, and you can see any fungous tlcsh, 
■with a small drawing knife remove the edges of 
the cracked horn that press upon it. Touch the 
fungus with caustic, dip a roll of tow or linen in 
tar and bind it firmly over it. The whole foot is 
to be kept in a bran poultice for a few days or 
until the lameness is removed. A shoe may then 
be put on so as not to press on the diseased part. 
The pledget of tow may now be removed, the crack 
filled with the composition and the animal turned 
into some soft meadow. 

Composition for sand-crack. 

Beeswax four ounces, yellow resin two ounces, 
common turpentine one ounce, tallow or suet half 
an ounce. To be melted together. 
Sit-fasts 

Are horny substances on the back under the sad- 



dle. Take hold of them with a pair of pincers 
and cut them out radically: leave no part behind 
or they will grow again. Dress the wound witli 
the green ointment. 

Sallenders 

Require the same treatment as mallenders, which 
see. 

Strains. 

In whatever part of the body this accident oc- 
curs, the treatment s'.ionld be perfect rest, mode- 
rate bleeding and purging till the inflammation is 
reduced, when any siimulating embrocation may 
be used. 

Strangury. 

Take away a quart of blood and throw up a 
laxative clyster; then give one ounce of salt-petre 
and one fluid ounce of sweet spirits of nitre iu a 
pint of water. 

StraJigles. 

This is known by a swelling between the jaw- 
bone and the I'oot of the tongue. If a large tu- 
mour appear under the jaw apply the suppurating 
poultice. When it is ripe open it, squeeze out the 
matter and reapjdy a warm poultice. In a few 
days it will run off. Give warm bran mashes and 
gentle exercise. 

Thrush. 

Remove the shoe and \iare off" all the ragged 
parts so as to expose the diseased parts; alter 
cleaning the frog nicely apply a solution of blue 
vitriol and shortly after pour some melted tar 
ointment into the cleft of the frog and cover its 
whole surface with tow soaked in the same, and 
on the tow a flat piece of wood about the width of 
the frog, one of its ends passing under the toe of 
the shoe, the other extending to the back part of 
the frog and bound down bj' cross pieces of wood, 
the ends of which are placed under the shoe. Re- 
peat the dressing every day. 
rives. 

This is a disease most common to young horses, 
and consists in a long swelling of tlie parotid gland, 
beginning at the roots of the ears and descending 
downwards. If it is painful and inflamed, apply 
the poultice — if it suppurates open the lump, let 
out tlie matter and dress w ith the green ointment. 
If it is hard and indolent apply strong mer(?urial 
ointment to disperse it and bleed moderately. 
Jf'ind galls. 

These swellings appear on each side of the back 
sinew, above the fetlock. It is dangerous to punc- 
ture them as is sometimes done, as it may produce 
an incurable lameness. Tight bandages and moist- 
ening the parts frequently with a strong solutioa 
of sal ammoniac in vinegar may do some good. 
fFounds. 

All the rules laid down in this book for the 
treatnieut of wounds in the human subject, apply 
strictly to horses. As in simple cut^, however, 
sticking plaster cannot be used, the edges of the 
wound should be neatly slitched together. Much 
can be done also by the judicious application of 
bandages. Farriers, generally, are iu the habit of 
pursuing such absurd, cruel, and fatal practices ia 
these cases, either by cutting oft" a part that appears 
to be partly torn from its connection, or by using 
stimulating applications, that it becomes necessary 
to repeat again, that all the rules laid down for the 
treatment of wounds in this work as applicable to 
man are equally so to the noble animal of w hich 
we are speaking. Read over these rules. Substi- 
tute the woi'd " horse" for " patient," andyou wiR 
be at no loss how to proceed. 

Bleeding in general. 

Bleeding is often the most useful and efficacious 
means of curing diseases in horses, &cc. In ii>- 
llammatory aft'eciioas, it is generally the first i-eme- 



FARRIERY. 



269 



i\y resorted to, and its immediate salutary effects 
are often surprising. 

When it is necessary to lessen the whole quan- 
tity of bood in tlie system, open the ju^^ular or 
neck vein. If tlie inflammation is local, bleed 
where it can be conveniently done, either from the 
part affected, or in its vicinit\% as by opening the 
plate vein, superficial vein of the thigh, oi- tempo- 
ral arteries. 

In fevers of all kinds, and when inflammation 
attacks any important organ, as tlie brain, eyes, 
lungs, stomach, intestines, liver, kidneys, bladder, 
^c. bleeding is of the greatest use. It diminishes 
tlie quantity of blood in the body; and by this 
means prevents the bad consequences of inflamma- 
tion. The quantity of blood to be taken varies ac- 
cording to the age, size, condition, and constitu- 
tion of the horse, and urgency of the symptoms. 

From a large strong horse, four or six quarts 
will generally be requisite, and this ma)' be re- 
peaced in smaller quantities if symptoms demand 
it. 'i'lie blood, in tiiese diseases, must flow from 
a large orifice made in the vein. A horse should 
never be sufl'ered to bleed upon the ground, but 
into a measure in order that the proper quantity 
maj' be taken. Young horses, also, while shedding 
their teeth, have sometimes much constitutional 
irritation, which bleeding relieves. But in these 
affections it is very rarely necessary to bleed to the 
same extent as in fevers, Ste. ; two or tliree quaits 
generally suffice to be taken away. 
Fulness of blood. 

Moderate bleeding, as trom two to three or four 
quarts, is also used to remove fulness of habit, or 
plethora, attended with slight inflammatory symp- 
toms. In this case the eyes appear heavy, dull, 
red or inflamed, frequently closed as if asleep; the 
pulse small, and oppressed; the heat of the body 
somewhat increased; the legs swell; the hair also 
rubs oft". Horses that are removed from grass to a 
warm stable, and full fed on hay and corn, and not 
sufticienth' exercised, are very subject to one or 
more of these symptoms. Regulating the quanti- 
ty of food given to him, proper exercise, and oc- 
casional laxatives, as ttie following powder, will 
l»e commonly found sufficient after the first bleed- 
ing, and operation of an aloetic purge. In slight 
aflcctions of this kind, a brisk pui-ge will often 
alone be sufticient. 

Laxative find diaphoretic po-wder. 

Take of crocus of antimony, finely levigated, 
nitre, cream of tartar, and flower of sulphur, of 
each, 4 oz. 

Powder and mix them well together for use. 

One table-spoonful of this mixture may be given 
every nigiit and morning, in as much scalded bran, 
or a feed of corn moistened wi^j water, that the 
powders may adhere thereto. 

This powder will be found excellent for such 
horses as are kept on dry meat, whether they be 
in the stable, or travel on the road; also for stal- 
lions in the spring of the year, as they not only 
keep the body cool and open, but cause him to cast 
Ms coat, and make Lis skin appear as bright as 
silk. 

Purging: 

In obstinate grease and swellings of the legs, ac* 
corapanied with lameness of the joints, dry coughs, 
worms, diseases of tho skin, farcy, apoplexy or 
staggers, atiections of the liver, and several other 
diseases treated of in this book, mercurial purges 
areoftJie greatest service. They purge; destroy 
worms; generally increase the flow of urine; ope- 
rate upon the skin, liver, and other viscera in a pe- 
culiar manner; cause a healthful action in these 
parts; and remove many chronic complaints inci- 
(itnl to tiic liorse. Great cauiiou is nccessar)- dm-- 



ing their operation, lest the horse take cold. The 
water given him must be warm, and when exer- 
cised he should be properly clothed. 

Horses that are kept on dry meat, and are full 
fed, with little or no exercise, require regular 
purging every six months, with two or three doses 
each time, allowing proper intervals between each; 
and those horses which run in stage-coaches, 
chaises (whose labour is often more than their na- 
tural strength is able to bear), and such whose legs 
are inclined to swell — all require purgative medi- 
cines; the use of which would be a means of pre- 
venting many of the diseases that attack this useful 
animal. 

To prepare horses for phi/sic. 

After violent exercise, horses are liable to lose 
their appetite, and to have their stomach loaded 
with crudities and indigested matter; the non- 
removal of which, by the use of proper physic, is 
the chief cause why so many die daily. Previously 
to administering a purge, the body should be pre- 
pared. 

Tlie proper method of preparing a horse for 
physic, is to give him two or three mashes of the 
scalded bran and oats, and warm water, for three 
or four days together. This will soften the faces, 
and promote tiie operation of tlie medicine. But 
it a strong purge be given to a horse of costive ha- 
bit, without preparation, it will probably occasion 
a violent inflammation. 

Purgative balls for horses. 

Take of Barbadoes aloes, 7i oz. ; Castille soap, 
IJoz.; powder ginger, 1| ozT; oil of aniseed, 2 
drachms; syrup, a sufticient quantity to make 6 
balls, each of which is a dose. 

Drink to check over purging. 

Take of prepared chalk, ginger, and aniseeds, la 
powder, each 1 ounce, essential oil of peppermint, 
15 drops; rectified spirit of w ine, ^ an ounce. 

Mix the whole in a pint and a half of warm lin- 
seed gruel, and give it. 

Another. — Take of prepared chalk, 2 ounces, 
aniseeds, and caraway seeds, in powder, each 1 oz.r 
opium, \ a drachm. Mix, and give it in a pint of 
linseed gruel. 

Astringent drink after looseness. 

If the looseness continue, after the above drink 
has been administered for 2 or 3 days, the follow- 
ing astringent drink may be given. 

Take of pomegranate shell, in powder, and pre ■ 
pared testaceous powder, each 1 oz.; Dover's pow ■ 
ders, and ginger powdered, each 2 drachms. Mix, 
and give iu a pint of warm gruel, and repeat twice 
a day. 

Coiigh drink. 

Take of Barbadoes tar, anisated balsam of sul- 
phur, each 1 oz. Incorporate them with the yolk 
of an egg, then add, nitre, 1 oz., ginger, ^ an oz., 
tincture of o[)iura, 1 oz. Mix them togetiier. 

Let this drink be gradually mixed in a pint of 
warm ale or linseed te;», and give it in the morning 
fasting; let the horse stand without meat for two 
hours after, then give him a mash of scalded bran 
and oats and warm water. Repeat eveiy other 
morning, for three or four times. 

Fever ball for horses. 

Takeof antimonial powder, tartari-sed antimony, 
and camphor, each 1 drachm; nitre and Castille 
soap, each 2 do.; Barbadoes aloes, 2 drachms. 
Mix, and beat them into a ball with syrup of buck- 
thorn. 

Let this ball be given to the horse about 2 hours 
after bleeding; and in 6 hours after giving him the 
ball, let him have the following 
Purgative drink. 

Take of Epsom salts, 4 oz.; nitre, ^ an oz.; 
coarse sugar, two table-spoonuful. Dissolve them 

X2 



270 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



in a quart of gruel; then add 10 oz. of castor oil. 
Alix, and give it while new milk warm. 

After tlie first ball is given, llie aloes may be 
left out, and tben the ball aiul drink may be given 
once a day (one in the morning, and the other in 
the evening), until a proper passage be obtained. 
l^o-werful mixture for fevers. 

If the fever still continue to iiicrease, it will be 
proper to take a little more blood from him, and 
then to have recourse to the following fever powder. 

Take of emetic tartar, 1 oz.; calcined antimony, 
2 oz.; calcined hartshorn, I oz. Mix, and grind 
tbem in a mortar to a fine powder; then put tiiem 
in a bottle for use; 2 drachms of these powders 
are a proper dose for a horse. 

A dose of this powder, with one ounce of nitre, 
may be given twice or three times a day, in a pint 
of warm gruel, or bp made into a ball with con- 
serve of roses. If the fever be violent, and the 
horse in a raging state, ^ an ounce of tincture of 
opium ma)' be aclded to each dose of powders. 
Drink for an injlatnmat'jrif fiver. 

Take of tartar emetic, 1 draciim; prepared kail, 
^ oz.; camphor, 1 draclim, rubbed into powder, 
with a few drops of spirit of wine. 

This drink is excellent for all kinds of inflamma- 
tory fevers; especially such as are attended with 
imminent danger. It may be given every four 
hours, or three times a day, in a pint of water- 
grueL 

Purging ball for jawuUce. 

Take of Barbadoes aloes, from 4 to 5 drachms; 
%vhite antimonial powder, and Castille soa[), each 
2 drachms; calomel, 1 drachm. Mix, and beat 
them into a ball with a sufficient quantity of syrup 
of buckthorn. 

Tlie horse should have a couple of mashes the 
day before this ball is given, by way of prepara- 
tion, and the ball should be given fasting the morif- 
ing following; let him fast for two hours after, then 
give him a masii of scalded bran and oats, with 
warm water, and treat him in the same manner as 
for other pliysic. 

Rtistorative balls after jaundice. 

Take of gentian and caraway seeds, in powder, 
of each, 8 oiuices; powdered ginger, and precipi- 
tated sulphur of antimony, of each 6 drachms; 
Castille soap, 1^ oz.; and honey sufficient to form 
into 6 balls. 

One of these balls should be given every other 
day for some time. 

Pectoral balls for broken -wind. 

Take of Barbadoes tar, Venice turpentine, and 
Castille soap, each 2 ounces; squills, in powder, 1 
ounce; calomel, 3 drachms. Beat them well to- 
gether; tlien add, nitre, 2 oz., aniseeds and cara- 
way seeds, fresh powdered, each 1 oz. Beat them 
into a mass with honey and liquorice powder, and 
divide into ten balls. 

Alterative balls for s^irfeit, mange, £Jc. 

Take of precipitated sulphur of antimony, gen- 
tian root, and socotrine aloes, each 1 oz. in fine 
powder; nitre, 2 oz.; calomel, and cantharides, in 
powder, each 2 drachms. Mix, and make them 
into a mass for balls, with honey or treacle. Each 
ball to weigh 1 ounce and a half. 

These balls will be found very useful in many 
diseases; such as surfeit, hidebound, mange, grease, 
or swelled legs, lameness of the joints, molten- 
grease, inflammation of the eyes, and, indeed, in 
all lingering and obstinate diseases. One ball may 
be given every other morning, for a fortnight or 
three weeks together. 

Astringent ball for profuse staldng. 

Take of galls and alum, iu fine powder, of each 
2 drachms; feruvian bark, ^ uiUiCe. Make into a 
ball, with honey or U'eacle. 



It will be proper to repeat this ball every room- 
ing, and, if the disease is obstinate, every night 
and morning, and continue until the urine is dimin- 
ished to about its natural quantity. 

Restorative balls for profuse staleing. 

Take of gentian I'oot, in powder, half an ounce; 
ginger, powdered, 2 drachms; alum, 1 drachm; 
treacle, sufficient to make into a ball. 
JMei'curial ball for worms. 

Take of calomel and Castille soap, of each I dr.; 
worm-seed, in powder, half an ounce. Beat them 
into a ball witii syrup of buckthorn. 

This ball should be given at night, and the fol- 
lowing drink, or purging ball, the next morning. 
ibrink for worms. 

Take of Barbadoes aloes, from 3 to 6 drachms 
(according to their size and strength), worm-seed 
and gentian, in powder, each ^ an oz. ; caraway 
seeds, in powder, 1 oz. Mix, and give in a pint 
of strong decoction of wormwood, and repeat in 
about 4 or 5 days; but omit giving the mercurial 
ball after the first time. 

Purging ball for the -worms. 

Take of Barbadoes aloes, 8 drachms; ginger, 
Castille soap, and oil of savin, each 2 drachms; 
syrup of buckthorn, sufficient to make them into a 
ball. 

This purge is calculated for a strong horse; but 
it may be made weaker, by lessening the quantity 
of aloes to 6 or 7 drachms, which are, in general, 
suflicient after a mercurial ball. The horse should 
have mashes, warm water, and proper exercise. 
Stomach drink after the expulsion of the worms. 

Take of compound spirit of ammonia, and sweet 
spirit of nitre, each I oz.; gentian root, in powder, 
li oz.; Peruvian bark, and hiera picra, in powder, 
each half an ounce, horse-spice, 2 oz. Mix the 
whole in three pints of ale, and divide into three 
parts, and give one every morning fasting. 

Two hours after, give him a mash and warm 
water. The virtues of this drink deserve the high- 
est commendation in restoring those horses which 
have been much reduced by some long-continued 
disease; as in lowness of spirits; debility, and re- 
laxation of the solids; a loss of appetite; and for 
such also as are over-ridden, either in the field or 
on the road. 

Sails for the staggers. 

Take of James's powders, 2 drachms, turmeric, 
and cream of tartar, each half an ounce. Make 
them into a ball with conserve of roses or honey; a 
sufficient quantity. 

Clyster for convulsions. 

Take of linseed, and valerian root, each, 4 oz.; 
boil them in 3 quarts of water to 4 pints; add, Ep- 
som salts, 4oz.; assafcetida, ^ oz.; opium, 2 dr. 
Dissolve the whole in the above while hot, and ap- 
ply it new milk warm. 

This is a most powerful clyster in all disorders 
of the intestines, that are attended with pain and 
convulsions, or spasms, in those parts, such as 
a violent attack of the colic, proceeding from an 
obstruction iu the urinary passage. 

To cure gripes in horses. 

This disorder goes by different names in differ- 
ent districts of tlie country; as fret, from the unea- 
siness attending it; hots, from its being thought to 
arise from these animals or worms, 5kc. The 
animal looks dull and rejects his food; becomes 
restless and uneasy, frequently pawinsj; voids his 
excrements in small quantities, and often tries to 
stale; looks round, as if towards his own flank, or 
tlie seat of complaint; soon appears to get worse, 
often lying down, and sometimes suddenly rising 
up, or at times trying to roll, even in the stable, 
Sec. As the disorder goes on, the pain becomes 
more violent, he appears more restless still, kicks 



FARRIERY. 



271 



at bis belly, g;roans, rolls often, or tumbles about, 
•with other marks of great agitation; becomes fe- 
verisli, and has a cold moisture at the roots of his 
ears and about his tlanks, and when he lies at rest 
a little space, begins to perspire strongly, and to 
get covered with sweat more or less profuse. 

In most cases of ordinary gripes, signs of flatu- 
lence, or of the presence of air confined in the 
bowels, occur and constitute a part of tlie disease, 
or increase it. The removal of it is, therefore, an 
object to which the attention of most grooms has 
been in a chief degree directed; and as it can fre- 
quently be got rid of, and the disease cured, by 
exciting tiie powerful action of the intestines, cor- 
dial and stimulating medicines are had recourse to, 
and, no doubt, in many have afforded i-elief. Some 
tarriers, indeed, without much care in distinguisii- 
ing cases, almost exclusively rely upon sucli, and 
employ them too freely. This, however, should 
not be done: for it sometimes happens, that disor- 
ders not unlike flatulent colic or gripes do occur, 
w lien there is neither pent up air pi'esent, nor any 
relaxation or want of energy and action in the in- 
testines themselves, and stimulating medicines 
migiit then do no good, butoi'ten much mischief. 

When tlie disorder is early discovered, or has 
newly come on, it will lie proper to lose no time 
to get ready a clyster, and likewise a medicinal 
draught for removing the wind and abating tlie 
pain. After removing with tiie hand any excre- 
ment in the great gut that can be reached by it, a 
clyster, made of five or six quarts of water, or wa- 
ter-gruel, blood warm, and six or eight ounces of 
somnion salt, may be injected: and one or other of 
the following draughts may be given, before or 
about the same time: 

Draught for the same. 

Take of Venice turpentine, 1 oz., beat it up 
with the yolk of an egg, and then add of pepper- 
mint water, or even of common water, if the other 
is not at hand, I pint and a half (English measure) 
and 2 ounces of whiskey or gin. This will serve 
lor one dose. 

Anotlier. — Take of table beer, a little warmed, 
1^ pint (English); common pepper or powdered 
ginger, I tea-spoonful; gin, whiskey, or rum, from 
ti to 4 ounces, or from 1 to 2 glasses full; these 
mixed together for one dose. 

Anothei'. — Oil of turpentine, 1 ounce, and water- 
gruel, 1 1-2 pints (English) mixed, for a dose. 

These and the like preparations may be given 
eitlier out of a bottle, or drench-horn, one or two 
persons raising and keeping properly up the horse's 
liead; while another, wlio administers the medi- 
cine, pulls out, and a little aside, the tongue, with 
liis left hand, and with the other pours iu the 
draught. 

Further treatment. 

Cordial drenches of the kinds recommended, 
with the clyster, will have eft'ect in ordinaiy cases 
to relieve the disorder. But should this not be the 
case, after waiting an hour or two (longer or shorter 
according to the severity of the ailment, or the pe- 
riod since its commencement), then the medicine 
should be repeated, but in a less dose than at first — 
perhaps one-half or two-thirds of the former quan- 
tity. The horse should be occasionally walked out, 
properly covered with clotlies, lest the chili air 
brin.^ on shivering, and give rise to feverishness; 
and liis belly should be now and then rubbed a con- 
siderable time at once, five or ten minutes, but 
with intervals of rest, so that it may have time to 
stale or dung. If the disorder does not yield to 
these remedies, then others must be employed of 
a more active nature. Some persons recommend 
castor oil in the proportion of half a pint to a pint 
(English), Willi an ouuce or two of laudanum, or 



tincture of opium, mixed with water-gruel, in the 
quantity of a pint (English) or rather less. In case 
the horse has lain down, and continued so for some 
time, and is covered with sweat, when he rises, 
two or more persons should be employed to rub 
him dry, and he should also be kept well clothed. 
The stable should be airy, moderately cool, and 
his place in it roomy and well littered, to keep hira 
from hurting himself should he roll about. 
Whitens ball for gripes. 
Draughts of liquid medicine operate more spee- 
dily than any other form; but as the disorder may 
attack a horse during a journey, where such cannot 
readily be procured, Mr White has given a receipt 
for a ball for the convenience of those who travel; 
and if it be wrapped up closely in a piece of blad- 
der, it may be kept a considerable time witiiout 
losing its power. The ball is composed of the fol- 
lowing ingredients, viz. Castille soap, 3 dr.; cam- 
phor, 2 drachms; ginger, 1 drachm and a half; and 
Venice turpentine, 6 drachms; to be made into a 
ball for one dose. 

Laudamtm draught. 
Laudanum may be used in cases of urgency, es- 
pecially in the wet or lax gripes. Take a quart of 
beer, and make it a very little warmer than blood 
lieat; then put a table- spoonful of powdered gin- 
<;er into it, and a small wine-glassful of laudanum, 
just before it is given to the horse. This, in most 
cases, will give ease in a short time; but if 
the complaint is exceedingly violent, give about 
half the above quantity again in 15 or 20 minutes. 
As soon as the pain seems to be abated, if the belly 
is costive, give the horse a purgative. In case of 
looseness no purgative must be given, tiie lauda- 
num, which is of a binding nature, will correct it. 
When pain is occasioned by inflammation, it is 
seldom proper to employ opium, or any medicine 
of that kind; but when it depends upon spasm, or 
irritation, no medicines are so beneficial. In in- 
flammation of tlie bowels, for example, opium 
would certainly do much injury, but in flatulent 
or spasmodic colic, or gripes, it seldom fails of 
success. 

Another anodyne medicine. 
When horses are aftected with colic, or M'here 
the use of anodynes are requisite, the following 
preparation may be given: namely, opium, 1 dr. 
or 60 grains; Castille soap, 2 dr., and powdered 
aniseed, half an ounce or 4 dr.; to be made into a 
ball with syrup, for <ine dose. 

In speaking of the medicines for gripes, or the 
flatulent colic, sometimes termed fret, xMr ^Vhite 
mentions, domestic remedies may be employed 
when proper medicines cannot be procured in time. 
For tills purpose a draught may be readily made 
up of a pint of strong peppermint water, with 
about 4 ounces of gin, and any kind of spice. 

Another. — A pint of poi-t wine, with spice or 
ginger. 

Another. — Half a pint of gin diluted with 4 oz. 
of water and a litttle ginger. 

Another. — Take of Epsom salts, 6 oz. ; Castille 
soap, sliced, 2 oz. Dissolve tliem in 1^ pints of 
warm gruel; then add, tincture of opium, ^ oz.; 
oil of junipeui 2 drachms. Mix, and give thera 
new-milk warm. 

This drink may be repeated every four or five 
hours, till the symptoms begin to abate. 
The same -when on a journey. 
Take of tincture of opium, and oil of juniper, 
each 2 drachms; sweet spirit of nitre, tincture of 
benzoin, and aromatic spirit of ammonia, each ^ 
oz. Mix tiiem together in a bottle for one drink, 
and give it in a pint of warm gruel. 

For the colic, flatulency, and colicky pains of 
the intestines, this drink will be found a valuable 



272 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



vordial. It niaj' be repeated eveiy two hours un- 
til the sj-raptoiTis abate. 

Another. — Tlie complaint may be rentovcd by 
warm beer and ginger, or a cordial ball, mixed 
■with warm beer. 

It is necessary to repeat the caution g;iven re- 
specting the necessity of distingnisliing- the Hatu- 
lent, or windy, or spasmodic colic, from the in- 
llaramatory one, and from th.at which depends on 
costiveness. It is always necessary to empty liie 
bowels by means of clysters; and, should tiie horse 
have appeared dull and lieavy previous to the at- 
tack, it will be advisable to bleed. If costiveness 
attends it, give a laxative drench after the parox- 
ysm, which will prevent its return. 

To cure surfeit or bad coat in horses. 

Take crocus metallorum, or liver of antimony, 
1 oz.; sjjrinkle it with water, or mix it with moist 
bran. This may be given to horses subject to this 
disorder once a day, among their oats; it relieves 
tiie appetite, destroj's worms, sweetens the blood 
against all obstructions, opens tiie passages, and 
improves tired and lean horses in a "great degree; 
it is also of great service in coughs and shortness 
of breath. It may be given daily from 2 to 4 
weeks, and will soon produce a fine coat. The 
horse may be woriced while he is taking the medi- 
cine, cai-e being taken not to expose him to wet or 
cold. 

Urine balls for horses. 

jMix together, 1 oz. of oil of juniper, 1 oz. of 
balsam of sulphur, 2 oz. of Venice turpentine, 4 
oz. of sal prunella, 1 lb. of black rosin. 

Melt all together gently, over a slow fire, in an 
iron pot, and make up into balls of the size of a 
nutmeg. 

Another. — Take of nitre, 3 lbs. resin, 3 lbs. 
soap, 1^ do. juniper berries, 1 lb. oil of juniper, 
l^oz. 

To be made up into balls, of the common size, 
witli spirits of turpentine. 

To cure diseases in horses'" feet. 

Eveiy person may see, upon turning up the bot- 
tom of a horse's foot, an angular projection point- 
ing towar<lstlie toe, termed the frog and its bar's; 
the remainder, or hollow part, being technically 
termed the sole, though the entire bottom of the 
fjot might better receive this name. It is certain, 
Jiowever, that " the frog and sole" require pressure j 
—a congenial kind of pressure without concussion 
— tliat shall cause the sensible, inside, or quick- | 
sole, to perform i'.s functions of absorbing the , 
serous particles secreted, or deposited therein, by i 
the blood vessels. If the frog and its bars are ; 
])ermilled to remain in sucii a slate as to reach the 
ground, whei'ever the sod happens to be soft, or 
yielding, the hollow part of the sole receives its 
due proportion of pressure laterally, and the whole 
sole, or surface of the foot, is lliereby kept in 
heallii, or ratlier, free from canker. | 

Prevention. \ 

Eveiy veterinarian, of sense, will perceive the 
necessity of keeping tlie heels apart; yet, although j 
the immediate cause of their contracting is so uni- i 
versally known and recognized, tiie injudicious j 
method (to call it by no harsher name) of pearing j 
away the frog and sole, whiCh prevents the bars i 
from ever touching tiie ground, is still continued 
to an alarming extent. I 

So much for prevention. When disease comes j 
on, which may be accelerated by two oilier species [ 
of mismanagement, another course is usually fol- | 
lowed, not less injudicious than the first mentioned j 
original cause of all tiie mischief. i 

Horses' hoofs are of two distinct kinds or shape; | 
tlie one being oval, hard, dark-coloured and thick, j 
the other round, palisli, luid thin in the wall, or I 



crust of the hoof. The first hnA-p a different kind 
of frog from the latter; this being broad, thick, 
and soft, whilst the oval lioof has a frog that i3 
long, acute, and hard. The rags, which hard- 
work and frequent slioeing occasion on the horny 
hoof of tlie round foot, produce ragged frogs also, 
both being tlius pared away to make a fair bottom 
to receive the shoe (burning hot!), the whole sup- 
port is so far reduced, and the sensible sole coming 
mucli nearer the ground, becomes tender and lia- 
ble to those painful concussions which bring on 
lameness — principally of the fore feet. Contrac- 
tion of those kinds of heels which belong to the 
cart-!iorse, and poramice-foot, are the consequence. 

The- oval foot pertains to the saddle-horse, the 
hunter, and bit of blood kind, whose bold project- 
ing frogs the farriers remove, and these being com- 
pelled to perform long and painful journeys, ever 
starting or going oft' with the same leading-Ie*, 
and continuing the same throughout, lameness is 
contracted in tliat foot, which none can account for, 
nor even find out whereabout it may be seated. 
Applications of " the oyls," (that egregious com- 
pound of folly, ignorance, and brutality,) follow 
the first appearance of lameness, and are made 
alike to the shoulder, the leg, and the sole, under 
the various pretences of rheumatism, strain in the 
shoulder, and founder. The real cause, however, 
is not thought of, much less removed; but, on the 
contrary, the evil is usually augmented, by remov- 
ing tlie shoe, and drawing the sole to the quick 
nearly, in search of supposititious corns, surbatings, 

£cc pretended remedies, that were nevei*' known 

to cure, but which might have been all prevented 
by the simplest precautions imaginable. These 
are — 

1st. Let the frog and sole acquire their natura. 
thickness. — 

2d. Lead off sometimes with one leg, sometimes 
■rt-ith tlie other. — 

3d. Stutf the hollow of the hoofs (all four of 
them) with cow-dung, changing it entirely once 
a day. In oveiy case, it is advisable that he be 
worked moderately; for it is useless to talk to the 
owners of horses, about giving the afflicted animal 
an entire holiday at grass. 

Should the proprietor of the beast be a sordid 
customer, the farrier can expect no fee for such 
simple advice as is here given; so he must procure 
a phialful of water, and putting therein a little 
saltpetre, (nitrated kali of the shops), and a littla 
colouring matter, to be either mixed with the 
stuffing, or to wash the sole clean daily, though 
the remedy will do as well (nearly) witliout such 
addition. A more efficacious auxiliary will be 
found in procuring a patch of clay, to be kneaded 
on the ground, on which the animal (which is 
worth so much trouble) may be allowed to stand, 
and if a small patch be made for each foot, the 
horse himself will prove their value (/n most cases) 
by feeling for them as it were, and sliowing by his 
manner, how gratified he is at the coldness they 
aftbrd to his lieated feet. Herein it must be ob- 
served, that stuffing with clay is not recommended; 
this being one of the numerous blunders of those 
farriers, who, having found the benefit of any ap- 
plication or remedy, push it to a ridiculous ex- 
tremity. 

Remedy for lameness in horses. 

^Ir Sewell, of the A'eterinary College, stated 
his having discovered a method of curing horses, 
wluch are lame in the fore-feet. It occurred to 
him, that this lameness might originate in tlie 
nerves of the foot, near the hoof; and in conse- 
qi^ience he immediately amputated about an inch 
of the diseased nerve, taking the usual precaution 
of guarding the ai'teries, .ind passing ligatures, 



FARRIERy. 



273 



?ec. By this means the animal was instantly re- 
lieved from pain, anil the lameness perfectly cured. 
To cure the thrush in horses' feet. 
Simmer over the fire, till it turns brown, equal 
parts of honey, vinegar, and verdigris, and apply 
it with a featlier or brush occasionally to the feet. 
The horse at the same time should stand hard, and 
all soft dung and straw be removed. 
Shoeing horses in lointer. 

In Canada, wnere the winter is never of a less" 
duration than 5 months, they shoe their horses in 
the following manner, which serves for the whole 
■winter: — The smith fixes a small piece of steel 
on the fore part of each shoe, not tempered too 
hard, which turns up about a | of an inch, in the 
shape of a horse's lancet; the same to the hinder 
part of the shoe, turned up a little higher than the 
fore-part, tempered in the same manner. In going 
up a hill, tlie fore-part gives a purchase that assists 
the horse, and in going down prevents him sliding 
forwards. 

To prevent tlie feet of horses from balling -with 
snoiu. 

If ihefrog in the hoofs of horses and the fetlock 
be cleaned, and well rubbed with soft soap, pre- 
viously to their going out in snowy weather, it 
will effectually prevent their falling, from what is 
termed balling the snow. A number of accidents 
might be prevented by tliis simple precaution. 
Ointment for the mange. 

Take of common turpentine, 1 pound, quick- 
silver, 4 ounces, hog's lard, ^ a pound, ilour of 
sulphur, 4 oz. train oil, ^ a pint. 

Grind the silver with the turpentine, in a mar- 
ble mortar, for five or si,\ hours, until it completely 
disappears; and add a little oil of turpentine to 
make it rub easier; then add the remainder, and 
^vork them all well together till united. 

This ointment must be well rubbed on every part 
affected, in the open air, if the sunshine and the 
weather be warm; but if it be winter, take the 
horse to a blacksmith's shop, wh-ere a large bar of 
iron must be heated, and held at a proper distance 
over him, to warm tlie ointment. 

Liniment for the mange. 

Take of white precipitate, 2 ounces, strong 
mercurial ointment, 2 ounces, sulphur of vivum, 
1 pound, flour of sulphur, ^ a pound, rape oil, 2 
quarts. 

First grind the white precipitate in a little oil; 
afterwards add the remainder, taking care that they 
are well mixed. 

This liniment must be well rubbed in with a 
hard brush, in the open air, provided the d.ay be 
fine, and the weather warm. If the horse draws 
in a team, the inside of the collar must be washed, 
or the inside of the saddle, if a saddle-horse, for 
the disease is highly contagious. 
Eije-Tvater . 

Take of camphor, 2 drachms, dissolved in 2 
ounces of rectified spirit of wine, Goulard's ex- 
tract, I oz. rose water, 1 quart. 

Shake all together in a bottle for use. 

Let the eye and the eye-lids be well bathed three 
or four times a day, with a clean linen rag dipped 
in the eye-water. 

For infammation of the lungs. 

Take of white antimonial powder, 2 drachms, 
prepared kali, ^ an ounce, nitre, ^ an ounce, Cas- 
tille soap, 2 draclims, aromatic confection, \ an 
ounce. 

Heat them into a ball. 

This ball must be given to the horse as soon as 
It can be prepared, after he has been bled; and con- 
tiime it two or three times a day as long as tne in- 
flammation continues; — about six hours after, give 
bim a purging drink, and repeat it every night and 
2 K 



morning until a passage is obtained, or tlie bowels 
are sufficiently opened. 

Embrocation for sprains. 

Take of soap liniment and camphorated spirit 
of wine, of each, Bounces, oil of turpentine, half 
an ounce. 

Mix and shake when used. 

This evaporating and discutient embrocation is 
well calculated to remove pain and inflammation, 
which is generally efi'ected in the course of a fort- 
night or three weeks; during that time the horse 
should not be allowed to go out of the stable or 
farm-yard. 

Bracing mixture for sprains. 

After the above embrocation, the following 
bracing mixture must be rubbed on the part once 
a day. 

Take of Egyptiacom, 2 oz. oil of turpentine, 
1 oz. 

Shake well together; then add camphorated spirit 
of wine, and compound tincture of benzoin, each 
1 oz. vinegar, 11 oz. 

Mix, and shake well together every time they 
are used. 

Paste to slop bleeding. 

Take of fresh nettles, 1 handful, bniise them in 
a mortal-; add blue vitriol, in powder, 4 oz. wheat- 
en flour, 2 oz. wine vinegar, ~> oz. oil of vitriol, 
h oz. 

Beat them all together into a paste. 

Let the wound be filled up with this paste, and 
a proper pledget of tow laid over the mouth, in 
order to prevent it from falling out, and then ban- 
dage it on with a strong roller. This dressing 
must remain in the wound 10 or 12 hours. 

Ointment for scratched heels. J' 

Take of hog's lai-d, 1 pound, white lead, 4 oz. 
alum, in fine powder, 2 oz. white vitriol, 1 oz. su- 
gar of lead, ^ oz. olive oil, 3 cz. 

Grind all the powders in a marble mortar with 
the oil, or on a marble slab; then add the lard, and 
work the whole together till united. 

This is a neat composition, and very proper to 
keep in the stable during the winter; it will not only 
be found useful for greasy and scratched heels^ but 
also for stubs aijd treads of every descripfion. A 
small quantity must be rubbed on the part afftcted 
every night and morning, in slight cases; but in 
treads, or wounds upon the heels, it will be best 
to spread the ointment on pledgets of tow, and se- 
cure them with bandages. 

Ointment for greasy heels. 

Take of white ointment, 1 pound, white vitriol, 
blue vitriol, and sugar of lead, in powder, each, 
^oz. 

Mix well together. 

This ointment, when used, must be spread on 
strong brown paper, and applied over the part that 
greases, and bandaged on with listing. He may, 
after dressing, be turned into a dry straw-yard, 
and a few diuretic balls given to him; one may be 
given every third day. Once dressing is in gene- 
ral sufficient to perform a cure; if not, it may be 
repeated in a week after. , 

Astringent embrocation for strains in different 
parts. 

Take of camphor,*2 drachms, dissolved in halt 
an ounce of strong rectified spirit of wine, nitre, 
1 oz. dissolved in half a pint of wine vinegar, 
spirits of turpentine, 4 ounces, white lead, or bole 
armenic, in powder, half an ounce, aqua fortis, 1 oz. 

Mix, and shake them all together in a bottle for 
use. 

JWxtvre for canker in the mouth. 

Take of wine vinegar, half a pint, burnt aluni, 
and common salt, each, one ounce, bole armeuio 
half an ounce. 



274 



UXrVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Mix, and shake them together in a bottle for use. 

It will be proper to dress the horse's mouth with 
this mixture, every morning ami evening, in the 
following manner: Take a small cane, or a piece 
of whalebone, half a yard long, and tie a linen 
rag, or-g little tow, round one end; then dip it in- 
to the mixture, and pass it up his mouth, and 
gently remove it to all the affected parts: let him 
champ it well about in his mouth; after which let 
him last an hour, then give meat as usual. 

J? urging ball for dogs. 

Take of jalap, in powdei-, 1 scruple, Barbadoes 
aloes, 1 drachm, ginger, in powder, 10 grains, con- 
serve of hips, or syrup, enough to form a ball. 
Ointment for the mange. 

Take of quicksilver, 3 oz. balsam of sulphur, 
2 oz. oil of turpentine, 3 oz. soft soap, 1 pound, 
Cape aloes^ in powder, g oz. 

Rub the quicksilver with the balsam of sulphur, 
in a marble mortar, for three or four liours, or un- 
til the globules completely disappear; and while 
rubbing keep gradually adding the oil of turpen- 
tine; havir.g done this, you may then mix the whole 
well together for use. It must be well rubbed in 
on the aft'ected parts, every third day, for tliree or 
four times. 

Liniment for the mange. 

Take of flour of sulphur, 4 oz. sulphur of vi- 
vum, 4 oz. white precipitate, 1 oz. strong mer- 
curial ointment, 1 oz. Cape aloes, in powder, ^ oz. 
neat's-foot-oil, 1^ pint. 

First rub the powders together in a mortar; then 
put in the ointment, and gradually add th«; oil; it 
luust be stirred when used. The affected parts 
must be well anointed with this liniment, every 
third day, for three or four times. 

Jilercurial liniments for the red mange. 

Take of mild mercurial ointment, 4 oz. oil of 
turpentine, 3 oz. Cape aloes, in powder, ^ oz. 

Mis well together, and anoint tl>e parts evei-y 
third day for three or four times. Many sports- 
men have their dogs regularly dressed witli this 
liniment two or three weeks before tlie hunting 
season commences; it is supposed to improve their 
scent, and make tliem more tit lor the cliase. 
JMild ointments for the mange. 

Take of oil of vitriol, half an ounce, hogs' lard, 
S ounces. Mix, and anoint the dog every day for 
three or four times, or oftener if required. 

This ointment is used in surfeit, and slight cases 
of mange. 

Lotion for the mange. 

Take of white hellebore root, bruised, 2 oz. 
water, 3 pints, boil-down to 2 pints and strain, sal 
ammoniac, 2 drs. sublimate, 1 dr. Cape aloes, half 
an oz. 

Dissolve the sal ammoniac, and other ingredi- 
ents, in the decoction. 

This lotion is sometimes used to cure the mange, 
■when greasy applications are objected to. 
Distemper in dogs. 

The following prescriptions are each about a dose 
for a full-grown pointer. They must, of course, 
be increased or diminished in proportion to the 
size and strength of the dog. 

Take of opium, 3 grains, ametic tartar (an in- 
valuable medicine), 5 grains. To be given at night. 

Repeat the dose every third night, till the dog 
is recovered; taking care to keep him in a warm 
place, and a! ways fed with a warm liquid diet, such 
as broth, gruel, See. 

If the nostrils should discharge, have them wash- 
ed, or syringed, twice a day, with a lotion of alum, 
or sugar of lead; putting about half an ounce of 
either to a pint of watei-. 



Anotlier. — For a half grown pointer. 

Take of jalap powder, 25 grains, calomel, 5 
grains. Made into a pill with a little gum water. 
For a full grown pointer. 

Take of jalap powder, 30 grs. calomel, 8 grs. 
Mixed as a1)ove. 

One of these doses, mixed with butter, or in a 
small piece of -meat, should be given to the dog 
every morning, on an empty stomach. The food 
should be light, and easy to digest; and the lotion, 
if required, for the nostrils, sliould be observed 
here, as before mentioned. 



Distemper among cattle. 

Examine your cow's nioiub, tliough she appears 
very well; and if you find any pimple in it, or on 
the tongue, or if you perceive any within the skin 
ready to come out, immediately house her, keep 
her warm, and give Iier warm tar-\>ater. To a 
large beast give a gallon; to a small one three 
quai-ts. Give it four times every tlay; but not 
every time the (juantit}' you first gave. Lessen the 
dose by degrees; but never give less tlian two 
quarts to a large beast, nor less than three pints to 
a small one; and house lier every night for soma 
time, and give her warm gruel and malt mash, 
'i'o 7nake tar-water for cows. 

Take one quart of tar, put to it 4 quarts of wa- 
ter, and stir it very well ten or twelve minutes; let 
it stand a little while, ^nd then pour it off for use. 
You must not put water to the same tar more than 
twice. Let tlie first dose be made of fresli tar. 
Continue to give it till the beast is well. Don't 
let her go too sooi\ abroad. 

For the garget in cows. 

This disorder is very frequent in cows after ceas- 
ing to be milked; it affects the glands of the udder 
with hard swellings, and often arises from the ani- 
mal not being clean milked. It may be removed 
by anointing the part tliree times a (lay with a lit- 
tle ointment composed of camphor and blue oint- 
ment. Half a drachm or more of calomel may 
be given in warm beer, from a horn or bottle, for 
three or four mornings, if the disorder is violent. 
To cure t/ie redwater in cattle. 

Take 1 oz. of bole armoniac, half an ounce of 
dragon's hloofl, 2 ounces of Castille soap, and 1 
drachm of roche alum. Dissolve these in a quart 
of hot ale, or beer, and let it stand until it is blood 
warm; give this as one dose, and if it should have 
the desired eftect, give the same quantity in about 
12 hours after. This is an excellent meihcine foe 
changing tlie water, and acts as a purgative; every 
farmer that keeps any number of cattle, should al- 
ways have doses of it by him. 

To aire the scouring in cattle. 

The following composition has been found to 
succeed in many cases which were apparently draw- 
ing to a fatal termination. 

Take of powdered rhubarb, 2 drachms, castor 
oil, I ounce, kali, prepared, I tea-spoonful. 

Alix well together in a pint of warm milk. If 
the first dose does not answer, repeat it in 36 or 
48 hours. If the calf will suck, it will be proper 
to allow him to do it. 

Cure for cattle swelled with green food. 

When any of your cattle happen to get swelled 
with an over feed of clover, frosty turnips, or such 
like, instead of the usual metiiod of stabbing in tlie 
side, apply a dose of train oil, which, after repeat- 
ed trials, has been found to prove successful. The 
quantity of oil must vary according to the age or 
size of the animal. For a grown-up beast, of ao 
ordinary size, the quantity recommended is about 
an English pint, which must be administered to 
Uie animal with a bottle^ taking care, at the same 



FARRIERY. 



time, to rub the stomach well, in order to make it 
go down. After receiving this medicine, it must 
be made to walk about until such time asUie swell- 
ing begins to subside. 

Treatment of cattle and fowk. 

The experiment hus often been tried of the bene- 
fit derived to horses from being well comI)ed and 
kept clean: it has been found that a horse neglect- 
ed as to cleanliness, will not be so well condition- 
ed, either for fatness or strengtii, though he gets 
abundance of corn; at least, it is certain that it 
would be worth trying. This every body knows, 
that the most neglected of the horse race are kept 
cleaner tlian the cleanest of the horned cattle, par- 
tic'jlurly tliose shut up in houses. 

"I liave two hints to give," says a contempo- 
rary writer, "as the expense can be nothing, 
and the advantage may be great, I read in a De- 
scription of Norway, that when the cows drink at 
the hot-springs, they give more milk than those 
that drink cold water. Cows drink so much at a 
time, that there is no doubt, when the water is 
nearl)' at freezing, they must feel sensibly cooled 
all over, which will naturally afiect their pi'oduce 
of milk. I would therefore proi>ose the experi- 
ment of warming the water, for milch cows, in 
cold weathir." 

Tlie next proposal is, that the com given to fowls 
should be crushed, and soaked in water; this helps 
the digestion, and hens will lay in winter when so 
fell, tiiat would not otherwise. 

In a time of scarcity, and when the food of man 
is dear, such experiments as proposed are well 
worlii making: and the practice i)roposed with 
the fowls ouglit to become general, as it costs 
nolhiutr. 



To cure the measles in sivine. 

It sometimes happens, lliough seldom, that swine 
have the measles; while lhe5' are in this stale, tlieir 
flesh is very unwholesome fooil. This disorder is 
not easily dis;-overed while tlie animal is alive, 
and can only be known hy its not thriving or fat- 
tening as tiie others. After the animal is killed 
and cut up, its fat is full of little kernels, about 
the size of tlie roe or eggs of a salmon, ^\"ilen 
this is the case, put into the food of each hog, once 
or twice a week, as much crude jjounded antimo- 
ny as will lie on a shilling. This is very proper 
for any feeding swine, even though they have no 
disorder. A small quantity of the flour of brim- 
stone, also, may be given among their food wlien 
tuey are not thriving, whicli will be found of great 
service to them. But the best method of prevent- 
ing disorders in SAvine, is to keep their sties per- 
fectly clean and dry, and to allow them air, e.xer- 
cise, and plenty of clean straw. 

Jiupture in swine. 

Where a number of swine are bred, it will fre- 
quently happen that some of tlie pigs will have 
what is called a ' rupture;' i. e. a hole broken in 
U»e rim of tbe belly, where part of the guts comes 
out and lodges betwixt the rim of the belly and the 
skin, having an appearance simitar to a swelling in 
the testicles. The male pigs are more liable to 
this disorder than the females. It is cured by the 
following means: 

Geld the ])ig afTected, and cause it to be held up 
with its head downwards; flay back the skin from 
the swollen place, and from the situation in which 
tlie pig is held, the guts will naturally return to 
their proper place. Sew up the hole with a neetlle, 
which must have a square point, and also a bend 
in it, as the disease often happens between the 
hinder legs, where a straight needle cannot be 
used. After this is done, replace the skin that 
was flayed back, and xvr it up, when the opera- 



tion is finished. The pig should not have mucli 
food for a few days after the operation, until the 
wound begins to heal. 

For the foot-rot in sheep. 

Take a piece of alum, a piece of green.'vitriol, 
and some wiiite mercury— the alum must be in the 
largest proportion; dissolve them in water, ana 
after the lioof is pared, anoint it with a feather, 
and bind on a rag over all the foot. 

Jhiother. — Pound some green vitnol fine, and 
apply a little of it to the part of the foot aftected, 
binding a rag over the foot as above. Let the 
sheep be kept in the house a few hours after this 
is (lone, and then turn them out to a dry pasture. 
This is the most common way of curing tlie foot- 
rot in ^liddlesex. 

Another. — Others anoint the part with a feather 
dijrt in aqua fortis, or weak nitrous acid, which 
dries it at once. Many drovers that take sheep t(j 
Smitliiield, carry a little bottle of this about with 
them, which, by applying to the foot with a fea- 
ther, helps a lame sheep by hardening its hoof, and 
enabling it to travel better. Some may think aqua 
fortis is of too iiot a nature, but such a desperate 
ilisorder requires an active cure, which, no doubt, 
is ever to be used cautiously, 

Anotltcr. — Spread some slacked quick lime over 
a house floor jirctty thick, pare the sheep's feet 
well, and turn them into this house, whr:re tiiey 
may remain for a few hours, after which tm-n them 
into a dry pasture. This treatment may be re- 
peated two or three times, always observing to 
keep the house clean, and adding a little more 
quick lime befoi'e putting them in. 

The foot must be often dres;ied, and the sheep 
kept as mucli as possible upon dry land. Those 
animals tliat are diseased should be kept separate 
from the flock, as the disorder is very, infectious. 

Prevention and cure of the fjot-rot in sheep. 

On suspected grounds, constant and careful ex- 
amination ought to take place; and when any fisj 
sores or cracks, attended with heat, make their 
appearance, apply oil of turpentine and common 
brandy. This, in general, produces a very bene- 
ficial eff"ect, but where tlie disease has been long 
seated, and becomes, in a manner, confirmed — af- 
ter cleaning the foot, and paring away the infected 
parts, recourse is had to caustics, of which, the 
best seem to be sulphuric acid, and the niti-ate of 
mercury. After this, pledgets are applied, the 
fool bound up, and the animal kept in a clean, dry 
situation, until its I'ecovery is effected. 

But it often happens, wliere the malady is in- 
veterate, that the disease refuses to yield to any, 
or all of the above prescriptions. 

The following mode of treatment, however, if 
carefidly attended to, may be depended upon as a 
certain cure. Whenever the disease jnakes its ap- 
pearance, let tlie foot be carefully examined, and 
the diseased part well washed, and pared as nigh 
as possible, not to make it bleed; and let the floor 
of the house, where the sheep are confined, be 
strewn three or four inches thick with quick lime 
hot from the kiln; and the sheep, after having their 
feet dressed in the manner above described, to 
stand in it during the space of 6 or 7 hours. 

In all cases, it is of great iraportauce, that the 
animal be afterwards ex"^)Osed only to a moderate 
temperature — be invigorated with proper food — 
and kept in clean, easy, dry pasture; and the dis- 
ease will be eftectually remedied in the course of 
a few days. 

To prevent slieep from catcliing cold after being 
shorn. 

Sheep are sometimes exposed to cold winds and 
rains immediately after shearing, which exposure 
Lequeiitly hurts them. Those farmers who have 



276 



UXmiRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



access to the sea, should plunge them into the 
salt water, those who have not that opportunity, 
and whose flocks are not very large, may mix salt 
M'itli water and rub lliem all over, which will in a 
great measure prevent any mishap befalling the 
animal, after having been stript of its coat. 

It is very common in the months of June and 
July, for some kinds of sheep, especiallj' the fine 
Leicester breed, which are commonly ttiin skinned 
about the head, to be struck with a kind of fly, 
and by scratching tlie place with their feet, they 
make it sore and raw. To prevent this, take tar, 
train oil, and salt, boil them together, and when 
cold, put a little of it on the part affected. This 
application keeps off" tlie flies, and likewise heals 
ilie sore. Tlie salt should be in very small quan- 
tity, or powdered sulphur may be used instead of 
it.' 

To aire the scab in sheep. 

Take 1 pound of quicksilver, A a pound of Ve- 
nice tui'pentine, 2 pounds of hog's lard, and h a 
])Ound of oil, or spirits of turpentine. A greater 
or less quantity than the above may be mixed up, 
in the same proportion, according to tiie number 
of sheep affected. Put tlie quicksilver and Venice 
turpentine into a mortar, or small pan, which beat 
together until not a particle of the quicksilver can 
be discerned: put in the oil, or spirits of turpen- 
tine, with the hog's lard, and work tliem well 
together until made into an ointment. The parts 
of tlie sheep aSected must be rubbed with a piece 
of tliis salve, about the size of a nut, or rather 
less. When die whole flock is afTected, the shep- 
herd must be careful in noticing those'that show 
any symptoms of the disorder, by looking back, 
and offering to bite or scratch the spot; and if 
aft'ected, he must immediately apply tlie ointment, 
as it is only by paying early a'nd particular attention 
that a flock can be cured. 

To prevent the scab. 

Separating the wool, lay the before-mentioned 
ointment in a strip, from tfie neck down the back 
to the rump; another strip down each shoulder, 
and one down each hip; it may not be unnecessary 
to put one along each side. Put very little of the 
ointment on, as too much of it may be attended 
■with danger. 

To destroy maggots in sheep. 

Mix with one quart of spring water, a table 
spoonful of the spirits of turpentine, and as much 
of the sublimate powder as will lie upon a shilling. 
Shake them well together, and cork it up in a bot- 
tle, with a quill through the cork, so that the 
liquid may come out of the bottle in small quan- 
tities at once. I'he bottle must always be well 
shaken when it i? to be used. "When die spot is 
observed where the maggots are, do not disturb 
them, but pour a little of die mixture upon the 
spot, as much as will wet the wool and the mag- 
gots. In a few minutes after the liquor is applied 
tiie maggots will all creep to the top of the wool, 
and in a short time drop off dead. The sheep 
must, however, be inspected next day, and if any 
of the maggots remain undestroyed, shake them 
off, or touch them with a little more of the mixture. 

A little train oil may be applied after the mag- 
gots are removed, as sometimes the skin will be 
hard by applying too much of the liquid. Besides, 
the fly is not so apt to strike when it finds die 
smell of the oil, which may prevent a second 
attack. 

This method of destroying maggots is superior 
to any other, and it prevents the anunrJ from being 
dis5gured by clipping oft" the wool, which is a 
couunon practice in some countries. 

Ciirefor tlie scab in siveep. 

'VXve simplest and most, eSioactous remedy for 



this disease, was communicated to the Society for 
the encouragement of arts, 8cc. by the late Sir 
Joseph Banks; and is as follows: 

Take 1 lb. of ([uicksilver, ^ a lb of Venice 
turpentine, ^ a pint of oil of turpentine, 4 lbs. of 
iiog's lard. 

Let them be rubbed in a mortar till the quick- 
silver is thoroughly incorporated with the other 
ingredients. For the proper mode of doing which, 
it may be right to take the advice or even the as- 
sistance of some apothecary, or other person used 
to make such mixtures. 

The method of using the ointment is this: Be- 
ginning at the head of tlie sheep, and proceeding 
from between the ears, along the back, to (he end 
of the tail; the wool is to be divided in a furrow, 
till the skin can be touched, and as tlie furrow is 
made, the finger, slightly dipped in the ointment, 
is to be drawn along the bottom of it, where it 
will leave a blue slain ou the skin and adjoining 
wool. 

From this furrow, similar ones must be drawn 
down the shoulders and thighs to the legs, as far 
as they are woolly; and if the animal is much in- 
fected, two more should be drawn along each side, 
parallel to that on the back, and one down each 
side, between the fore and hind legs. 

Immediately after being dressed, it is usual to 
turn die sheep among other stock, without any fear 
of the infection being communicated; and there is 
scarcely an instance of a sheep suft'ering any injury 
from the application. In a few days the blotches 
dry up, the itching ceases, and the animal is com- 
pletely cured. It is generalh', however, thought 
])roper not to delay the operation beyond Micliael- 
mas. 

The hippobosca ovina, called in Lincolnshire 
Sheep-fagg, an animal well known to all shepherds, 
which lives among the wool, and is hurtful to tfiC 
thriving of sheep, both by the pain its bite ocwi- 
sions, and the blood it sucks, is destroyed by this 
application, and the wool is not at all injured. 
Our wool-buyers purchase the fleeces on wliicli 
the stain of the ointment is visible, rather in pre- 
ference to others, from an opinion, that the use of 
it having preserved the animal from being vexed, 
either witli the scab or faggs, the wool is less lia- 
ble to the delects of joints or knots; a fault observ- 
ed to proceed from eveiy sudden stop in the thriv- 
ing of the animal, either from want of food, or 
from disease. 

To cure the -water in the heads of sheep. 

Of all the various operations by which this dis- 
temper may be eradicated, I must, from experience, 
give the preference to one which will, perhaps, 
astonish such of your readers as form their o[)ini- 
ons more from tlieory than practice. A number 
of medical men have already controverted the fact; 
and, with die utmost presumption, disputed my 
veracity to ray face, after 1 had witnessed its effi- 
cacy in a thousand instances. It is no other than 
that of putting a sharpened wire up the nostril 
quite through the middle of the brain, and by that 
means perforating the bag which contains the fluid 
causing the disease. This is, of all other methods, 
the most certain to succeed: but it has this un- 
pleasant appendage annexed to it, if it do not cure, 
it is certain to kill. 

This mediod of cure is not onlj' the most expo* 
dient, but it is in eveiy shepherd's power, and one 
which he can scarcely perform amiss, if he attend 
to the following pLun directions. 

The operation must be performed with a sdff 
steel wire, such as is used for knitting the coarsest 
stockings. It must be kept clean, and free of rust, 
oiled, aud sharyieneil at the point. Cai'e must be 
takeuj howerer, diat its poiiu be only ooe-eighth 



FARRIERY. 



• of an inch in lenglli, for if it is tapered like a 
needle, it is Hpt to take a wrong direction ingoing 
lip tlie nostrils, fix in tlie gristle below the brain, 
and torment the animal to no i)urpose. If blunt 
m the point, it often fails to penetrate the bladder, 
vhich is of considerable toughness, shoving it only 
a little to one side; the safest way, of course, is to 
have the point of tlie wire sharp and short. 

The shepherd must first feel with his tliiimbs 
for llie soft part in the skull, which invariably i 
marks the seat of his disease. < If that is near the 
middle of the head above, where, in two cases out 
of three at least, it is sure to he, let him then fix 
the animal firm betwixt his knees, liold the head 
■with one hand, laying his thumb upon the soft or , 
diseased part, and with the other hand insert the \ 
wire by tlie nostril, most on a parallel with the | 
seat of the distemper, aiming directly at the point ! 
where his thumb is placed. The operation is per- j 
formed in one second, for if he feels the point of 
the wire come in contact with his thumb, let him 
instantly set the animal to its feet; and if the I 
weather is at all cold, let it stand in the house over- j 
night. I 

If the disease is seated exactly in that part where ' 
the divisions of the skaM meet, and consequently ' 
in a right line with the top of the nose, he must ' 
probe both nostrils; v hen, should he miss the bulb 
on the one side, he will be sure to hit it on the 
other. If the seat of the disease cannot at all be 
found, and if the animal have all the symptoms of i 
the malady, the water is then enclosed among the 
ventricles in tlie middle of the brain, and must be 
ti-eated as above. Nothing can be done in the last 
case, save with the wire; but it is hard to cure \ 
tJiem when so affected. I have found, on dissec- \ 
tion, the lluid contained in many little cells in the 
centre of the brain; and though the wire had pene- 
trated some of those cells, it had missed others. 

By this simple operation alone, 1 have cured 
hundreds; and though I never kept an exact regis- 
ter, I think 1 iiave not known it to fail above once 
in four times at an average, in all the instances 
which have come under my observation; and some 
of the'Se I knew to be injudiciously performed, 
the disease not being seated in a point which the 
wire could reach. 1 have at times cured a dozen, 
and ten, in regular succession, without failing once, 
and I have again, in some cold seasons of the 
year, killed three or four successivelj'. 

Sir George M'Kenzie has insinuated, in hisbook 
on sheep, that I was the inventor of this mode of 
cure — but it is by no means the case. The prac- 
tice, I understand, has been in use among shep- 
herds for ages past; but they were often obliged 
to perform it privately, their masters, like the pro- 
fessors about Edinburgh, always arguing, that the 
piercing of the brain must necessarily prove fatal. 
Sir Geoi-ge has, however, misunderstood my ac- 
count in this matter in the Higland Society's 
Transactions; I did not mean to insinuate that it 
•was with pleasure I discovered the art of curing 
them in this way, but only my success in that art. 
I mentioned in these Transactions, that when I was 
a shepherd boy, for a number of years I probed 
the skull of every sturdied sheep that I could lay my 
hands on, without any regard to whom tliey belong- 
ed, and likewise took every opportunity of visiting 
my patients as often as possible; and as the coun- 
tiy around me swarmed with them every spring 
and summer, ray practice, of course, was of pro- 
digious extent. It was several years before 1 was 
sensible of failing in one instance, which, howev- 
er, it was often impossible to ascertain, they hav- 
ing left the spot sometimes, before I could again 
go that way: but many d valuable young sheep I 
ctirad to different owners, wiUiout ever acknow- 



ledging it, having no authority to tiy such experi- 
ments. 

The following symptoms, after the operation, 
ma}' be depended on. If the animal becomes con- 
siderably sick, it is a good sign that it will reco- 
ver. If it continues to grow sicker, and abstains 
from feeding for the sjiace of two days, it is likely 
to die; and, if in a condition to be fit for family 
use, ought to be killed forthwith. The flesh of 
tlie animal is nothing the worse for this disease; on 
the contrary, it is universally supposed by the 
country people, that their flesh is sweeter, more 
delicate and palatable, than any other. Tiiis, I 
suppose, must be owing to their tender age, it being 
unusual to kill any sheep so young, save lambs. 

The first symptom of recovery is their bleating. 
If once they begin to bleat occasionally, lliej- are 
sure to recover, however stupid they mriy appear at 
that time. It seems that they are then becoming 
sensible of the want of society, the only tiling which 
causes sheep to bleat, and which, for a long time 
previous to tliat, they had totally disregarded. 

I must mention here, that the most successful 
curer of this distemper I ever knew, perforjned the 
operation in a different manner from the one prac- 
tised by me, and above recommended. Instead of 
a wire, he curried always a large corking-pin in 
his bonnet; and, like me, tapped every sturdied 
sheep he found, but always above, putting the point: 
of the pin through the skull at the place where it 
was most soft, in the same manner as the trocar is 
used. As this does not at all endanger the sheep's 
life, I frequently tried this plan previous to that of 
probing with the wire; but, as far as I can recollect, 
I never cured one by that means. I i-emember of ^ 
once conversing with him on the subject, when he 
told me that he seldom or never failed of curing 
them upon their own farms; but that, in sundry 
neighbouring farms, he rarely cured any. From 
this, it would appear that, on different soils, the 
animals are differently affected. I am now con- 
vinced that he must generallj' have inserted the 
pin so far as to penetrate the bottom of the sac, 
which I never had the sense to try, and which, if 
we reason from analogy, must prove as efteetive, 
and less hazardous than the other: for, -it appears 
to me that, in order to ensure a recover)', it is ne- 
cessary that the bottom, or lowest part of the sac, be 
penetrated. 

Undoubtedly, the best mode of curing this dis- 
ease would be to extract the sac, and all that it 
contains, entirely. There is little doubt that, if this 
were performed by gentle and skilful hands, it 
would prove the most effectual cure; but as it is, I 
can attest that it seldom proves successful. The 
shepherds have not skill and ingenuity sufficient to 
close the skull properly up again, or sort it in such 
a manner as ts requisite to defend it from external 
injuiy; of course, I would rather recommend the 
mode in which they cannot easily go wrong, and 
which I have seen prove most beneficial, when per- 
formed by men of like acquirements of themselves. 
•^Farmer's JMagazine. 

To prevent tlie "sturcii!,''^ or -water in the heads of 
sheep. 

With regard to the causes inducing water in the 
head of sheep, there is but one opinion entertained 
among shepherds, which is, that it is occasioned by 
a chilliness in the back of the animal, on account 
of its being exposed to the winds, and the sleety- 
showers of winter. These cause it to acquire a 
kind "f numbness and torpidity, which, if often re- 
peated, are apt to terminate in an afrection to gid- 
diness, and finally in a water in the head. 

That the disease is occasioned solely by a chil- 
liness iu the back, appears froni tlie following 
facts: 



273 



U^^■VERS.\L RECEIPT BOOK. 



1. It is always most general after a windy and 
sleety winter. 

2. It is always most destructive on farms that 
are ill-siieltered, and on which the sheep are most 
exposed to those blasts and showers. 

3. It preys only on sheep rising their first year, 
liie wool of whom separates above, leaving tiie back 
quite exposed to the wet and to the cold. 

4. If a piece of clotii or hide is sewed to the 
wool, so as to cover the back, such a sheep will not 
be affected with the disease. The experiment is a 
safe, a cheap, and an easy one; and, exclusive of 
its good effects in preventing the fatal disease un- 
der consideration, it is the most beneficial to a 
young sheep that is not over high in condition, 
and ailrainisters the most to its comfort during the 
winter, of any other tiiat I know. It keeps tiie wool 
from opening, and the sheep always dry and warm 
in the back; whicli, exposed to cold, either in man 
or beast, it is well known, aflects the vitals mate- 
rially. When thus shielded, the young sheep will 
feed straight in the wind on the worst days, with- 
out injury, and, indeed, without much regarding 
the weather. Tliis covering keeps them from the 
rain, prevents them from being shelled and loaded 
w-ith frozen snow, and from destruction by cold, 
by leanness, and the water in the head. The ex- 
pense attending it is so trifling, that it is scarcely 
worth mentioning. One pair of old blankets of 
the value of four or five shillings, will furnish 
coats for forty slieep; and if these are carefully 
taken off on the return of spring, and laid aside, 
they will serve the same purpose for two or three 
successive years. 

Practice of the Spanish shepherds. 

The first care of the shepherd on coming to the 
spot where his sheep are to spend the summer, is 
to give to his ewes as much salt as they will eat. 
For this purpose he is provided with 25 quintals of 
salt for every thousand head, which is consumed 
in less than five months, but they eat none on their 
journey, or in winter. The method of giving it to 
them is as follows: — The shepherd places fifty or 
s*xty flat stones about five steps distance from each 
other; he strews salt upon each stone, then leads 
his flock slowly tlirough the stones, and every | 
sheep eats ftt pleasure. This is frequently repeat- j 
ed, observing not to let them eaten those days in ' 
any spot where there is limestone. When they 1 
have eaten tlie salt, they are led to some argilla- | 
ceous spots, where, from the craving tliey nave j 
acquired, they devour every tiling they meet witli, i 
and return again to the salt with redoubled ardour. 1 

Cure of dropsy in the crops of ijoung turkeys. 

This kind of dropsy is announced by a dull look, 
paleness of the head, loss of appetite, and aver- 
sion to food. The birds allow themselves to be 
approached and seized with facility, and they are 
without strength. Very soon a slight swelling of 
the crop is added to these symptoms, which, in 
ten days, becomes very considerable. 1 have taken 
rearly a pint of water from one. By pressing upon 
the crops of some of them, a certain quantity of 
matter is discharged by the bill, but never enough 
entirely to ease the crop. All these symptoms in- 
crease, and the bird dies at the end of 15 or 18 
days' illness. 

1 sought after the cause of this disorder, and it 
was easy to find that it was occasioned by the stag- 
nant water of which these animals had drunk; in 
the course of the year the heat had been great, and 
there was little rain. The heat had hatched ri vast 
swarm of small red worms, resembling ascarides. 
It is quite certain that these insects must have been 
swallowed by the turkeys, and from this cause, and 
the bad quality of the water which they had drunk, 
a great degree of iuflaramaliou iu the crop would 



ensue, with a stoppage of the passage which con- 
ducts to the gizzard. I divided tlie turkeys into 
two classes; for those who were still sound I or- 
dered grain and good water; with all that were dis- 
eased 1 practised the operation of tapping with a 
lancet, in the lowest part of the crop. 1 injected 
at the opening, by means of a small syringe, a 
slight decoction of Jesuit's bark, mixed with a lit- 
tle brandy; which was repeated twice in the course 
of the day. Next day the wound was better 
marked. I made again the same injection, and, 
two hours after, 1 forced them to eat a little of the 
yolk of an egg, mixed with some crumbs of bread. 
At the end of three days, the wound in the crop 
was closed, which I might have prevented, but 
finding a natural opening in the bill, I made thera 
ta!:e, (luring eight days, in their drink the same 
substance whicli had been injected; and tiiey were, 
by degrees, put on their usual diet. I need not 
add, tliat clear water was given them instead of 
that of the standing pools. Ten of these animals 
had died before my arrival; two perished during 
the treatment, and the rest of the flock, which 
might be about forty, eitiier escaped the disease 
or were cured. — »Tf. Ligiieau. 

To cure colds of every description in catile. 

The first attempt should be to remove the cause, 
by giving to the animal a warm cordial drink; 
which, acting as a stinndant on the stomach and 
intestines, will give fresh motion to these parts, 
and enable nature to resume her former course. 

Take of aniseeds, caraway seeds, grains of para- 
dise, and fenugreek, each 3 oz. in powder. Mix 
tliem together for one drink. 

Aaotlwr. — Take of sweet fennel-seeds, and cum- 
min-seeds, each 2 oz. in powder, long pepper, tur- 
meric, ginger, and Enula Campana (elecampane), 
each 1 ounce, in powder. Mix for one drink. 

The method of giving either of these drinks is 
as follows: — Take one and put it into a pitcher 
with 2 oz. of fresh butter, and 2 table-spoonsful of 
treacle or coarse sugar; then pour one quart of 
boiling ale upon the whole; cover them down till 
new-milk warm, and then give the drink to the beast. 

In two hours after giving the drink, let the ani- 
mal have a good mash made of scalded bran, or 
ground malt, with a handful or two of ground oats 
or barley meal added to it, and warm water that 
day. In slight colds during the summer, these 
drinks may be given to cattle while in their pas- 
ture: and, where it can be made convenient, let 
them fast two hours after, and then graze as usual. 
It is also necessary to examine the sick animals 
every day, to watch them while they both dung 
and stale, and to see whetlier the body be of a pro- 
per heat, and the nose or muzzel of a natural 
breeze. 

If these be regular, there is not much danger. 
If, however, feverish symptoms should appear, 
(which frequently happen), the animal will be- 
come costive. In such cases give one of the fol- 
lowing: 

. Purging drinh. 
Take of Glauber salts, I lb. ginger, in powder, 

2 oz. treacle, 4 oz. 

Put all tlie ingredients into a pitcher, and pour 

3 pints of boiling water upon them. When new- 
milk warm, give the wliole for one dose. 

Another. — Take of Epsom salts, 1 lb. aniseeds 
and ginger, in powder, each 2 oz. treacle, 4- oz. 

Let this be given in the same manner as the pre- 
ceding. 

In most cases these drinks will be suflicient to 
purge a full grown animal of tliis kind. By strict 
attention to the above method of application, a fe- 
ver may be prevented, and the animal speedily 
restored. 



FARRIERY. 



279 



If the fever continue, after the intestines have 
been evacuated (wliich is seldom the case), it will 
be proper to take some blood from the animal, and 
the quantity must be regulated according to the 
disease and habit of body. 

7'o cure the yelloivs or jaundice in neat cattle. 

As soon as this disease makes its first appear- 
ance, it may, for the most part, be removed by ad- 
ministering the following drink: 

Reduce to powder cummin seeds, aniseeds, and 
turmeric root, each 2 oz. grains of paradise, and 
Salt of tartar, each, 1 oz. 

Now slice 1 oz. of Castille soap, and mix it with 

2 oz. of treacle; put the whole into a pitcher, then 
pour a quart of boiling ale upon the ingredients, 
and cover them down till new-milk warm, then 
give the drink. It will often be proper to repeat 
this, two or three times, every other day, or of- 
tener if required. If the beast be in good condi- 
tion, take away from two to three quarts of blood; 
but the animal sliould not be turned out after 
bkeding that day, nor at niglit, but the morning 
following it may go to its pasture as usual. After 
this has had tlie desired effect, let the following be 
given: 

Take of balsam of copaiva, 1 oz. salt of tartar, 
1 oz. Castille soap, 2 oz. Beat them together in 
a marble mortar; and add of valerian root, in pow- 
der, 2 oz. ginger root and Peruvian bark, in pow- 
der, each 1 oz. treacle, 2 oz. 

Mix for one drink. 

Let this drink be given in a quart of warm gru- 
el, and repeated if necessary every other day. It 
vill be proper to keep the body sufficiently open 
through every stage of the disease; for if costive- 
iiess be permitted, the fever will increase, and if 
not timely removed, the disorder will terminate 
fatally. 

Frenzy, or inflammation of the brain. 

Is sometimes occasioned by wounds or contu- 
sions in the head, that are attended with violent 
inflammations of the vessels, and if not speedily 
relieved, may terminate in a gangrene or a morti- 
fication, which is very often tlie case, aad that in a 
few days. 

jyiethod of aire. 

In the cure of this disease, the following method 
must be attended to: — First lessen the quantity of 
blood by frequent bleeding, whicU may be repeat- 
ed daily if required, and by which the great efflux 
of blood upon the temporal arteries will be lessen- 
ed and much retarded. The following purgative 
drink will be found suitable for this disease, and 
likewise for most fevers of an inflammatory na- 
ture. 

Take of Glauber salts, 1 lb. tartarized antimo- 
ny, 1 drachm, camphor, 2 drachms, treacle, 4 oz. 

Mix, and put the whole into a pitcher, and pour 

3 pints of boiling water upon them. 

When new-milk warm add laudanum, half an 
ounce, and give it all for one dose. 

This drink will in general operate briskly in the 
space of 20 or 24 hours; if not, let one half of the 
quantity be given to the beast eveiy night and 
morning, until the desired effect be obtained. 
To cure hoven or blown in cattle. 

This complaint is in general occasioned by the 
animal feeding for a considerable time upon rich 
succulent food, so that the stomach becomes over- 
charged, and they, through their greediness to eat, 
torget to lie down to ruminate or chew their cud. 
Thus the paunch or first stomach is rendered inca- 
pable of expelling its contents; a concoction and 
fermentation take place in the stomach, by which 
a large quantity of confined air is formed in the 
part that extends nearly to tlie anus, and for want 
of vent at that part, causes the animal to swell 



even to a state of suffocation, or a rupture of some 
part of the stomach or intestines ensues. As sud- 
den death is the consequence of this, the greatest 
caution is necessary in turning cattle into a fresh 
pasture, if the Ute of grass be considerable; nor 
sliould they be suffered to stop too long at a time 
in such pastures before they are removed into a 
fold yard, or some close where there is but little 
to eat, in order that tiie organs ot rumination and 
digestion may have time to discharge their func- 
tions. 

If this be attended to several times, it will take 
away that greediness of disposition, and preveat 
this distressing complaint. 

Treatment. 

As soon as the beast is discovered to be eithfcr 
hoven or blown, by eating too great a quantity of 
succulent grasses, let a purging drink be given; 
this will, for the most part, ciieck ferraenlatlon in 
the stomach, and in a very short time force a pas- 
sage through the intestines. 

Pauncldng. 

This is a method frequently resorted to in dan- 
gerous cases. The operation is performed in the 
following manner: — Take a sharp pen-knife and 
gently introduce it into the paunch between the 
haunch bone and the last rib on the left side. This 
will instantly give vent to a large quantity of fetid 
air; a small tube of a suflicient length may then 
be introduced into the wound, and remain until 
the air is sufficiently evacuated; afterwards, take 
out the tube, and lay a pitch plaster over the ori- 
fice. Wounds of this kind are seldom attended 
with danger; where it has arisen, it has been oc- 
casioned by the injudicious operator introducing 
his knife into a wrong part. After the wind is ex- 
pelled, and the body has been i-educed to its na- 
tural state, give the following 

Cordial drink. 

Take aniseeds, diapente, and elecampane, in 
powder, each 2 ounces, tincture of rhubarb, 2 
ounces, sweet spirits of nitre, 1 ounce, treacle, 4 
table-spoonsful. 

Mix and give it in a quart of warm 'ale or gruel. 

This drink may be repeated every other day fur 
3 or 3 times. 

Another. — Take aniseeds, grains of paradise, 
and cummin-seeds, each 2 ounces, in powder, spi- 
rits of turpentine, 2 table-spoonsful, sweet spirits 
of nitre, 1 oz. treacle, 2 table-spoonsful. 

Mix and give them in a quart of warm ale or 
gruel. 

This may be repeated once a day for two or three 
times. 

To cure sv>imming tn the head. 

This disease mostly attacks animals that have 
been kept in a state of poverty and starvation dur- 
ing the winter season; and which have in the spring 
of the year been admitted into a fertile pasture: 
hence is produced a redundancy of blood and other 
fluids, pressing upon the contracted vessels, while 
the animal economy, on the other hand, is using 
its utmost endeavour to restore reduced nature to 
its original state. If it is not checked in its infan- 
cy by bleeding, evacuating, &c. inflammation in all 
probability must take place; in which case the 
beast is attended with all the symptoms of one that 
is raving mad. 

The cure must first be attempted betaking from 
two to three or four quarts of blood from the ani- 
mal, according to size and strength; two or three 
hours after give a purging drink. 

Purging is veiy necessary in this disease, as well 

as in all others of an inflammatory kind; for other- 

ii wise it will be impossible to check its progress: 

I and as soon as this is effected, the following may 

li be given: 



280 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Sudorific rli-ink for the same. 

Take of tartar emetic, 1 ilrachm, volatile salt, 
ftnd camphor, each 2 drachms in powder, nitre, 
and cream of tartar in powder, each 1 oz. treacle, 
4 table-spoonsful. 

Mix and put them in a pitcher, with a quart of 
not gruel, then stir the whole togellier and give it 
■when new milk warm. 



It will be necessary to repeat this drink t^\■'tc^'. a 
day, until the symptoms begin to abate: afterwartls 
once a day will be sufficient. But so long as the 
fe\er continues to be attended witli delirious symp- 
toms, it will be proper to take from one to two 
or three quarts of blood from the animal ever? 
two or three days. 



TAISNl-NG, 



AND THE TREATMENT OF LEATHER. 



To tan hides or shins. 

There are many vegetable substances which pos- 
sess the tanning principle: but the chief are tlie 
oak, alder, valonea, larch, willow, and Peru- 
vian barks. The latter from its high value is only 
used in Medicine; oak bark, from its plentiful sup- 
ply, and the strength of its astringent juices, may 
Ije properly termed the staple article of the tanning 
business; this bark is ground into coarse shreds in 
a mill from which a decoction or liquor is made, 
called ooze, into which the hides or skins, after 
being propei'ly cleared of their extraneous filth and 
juicy redundancies, are immersed, and first suli- 
jected to the action of a weak decoction of tan, in 
which stage they remain, according to their 
strength and size, from u fortnight to several 
'iveeks, during which they are frequently handleil, 
to create a mure kindly incorporation between the 
vegetable and animal juices, from thence they are 
removed to a vat containing a stronger infusion of 
bark, where they remain a considerable time, until 
they have absorbed all the tan; they are then im- 
mersed in a still stronger infusion of this rupior, 
and frequently taken out to be handled as before: 
if it is perceived tliat the li([Uor does not operate 
upon them witli sufficient ettect, aplentitul sprin- 
kle of di-y bark is thrown Iietwixt every layer of 
hides, and as soon as the outside and internal parts 
assume a good healthy brown colour, they may be 
said to be converted into leather. Calf skins re- 
quire, according to their size, from 2 to 3 months 
in tanning: cow hides G months, and strong ox 
hides from 9 to 12 months. 

The article of valonea, a most powerful vegeta- 
ble astringent, has become a great favourite with 
tanners of late years; it is allowed to give the 
leather more weight than oak bark, but it produces 
a duliiess of colour in the article tanned with it: at 
the same time it is the finest basis for blacks the 
dyers possess. The bark of the larch fir gives to 
Jealher a most beautiful bloom, and since it has 
been proved equal to the tannage of heavy liides, 
is likely to become tlie best substitute for oak bark. 
To tan fAthout bark or mineral astringents. 

This method does not differ from that in general 
use, except in the saving of time and expense, and 
the preparation of the astringent liquor. The 
bides and skins, previous to tlieir being put into 
tlie liipior, are plunged into a preparation of bran 
and water for two days. The astringent liquor is 
composed of 17 gallons of water, ^ lb. of Aleppo 
galls, 5 lbs. of tormentil, or septfoil root, and \h 
oz. of Bengal catechu. The galls, fee. are to be 
finely powdered, and boiled in the « ater a certain 



time, and when oool, the skins are to be put m, 
and handled frequently during the first three days, 
afterwards to remain two or three days; then to be 
handled two, thr«e, or more times in one day, and 
finally to I'eniain undisturbed for 25 days, when the 
process is completed. 

This improved method of tanning will produce 
a saving of .50 per cent, in money, and at least two 
months in t*me. 

Improvement in tanning. 

The trunk, roots, limbs, branches, and leaves of 
the oak, whether tree, pollard, coppice, or under- 
wood, possess tanning properties in a sufficient 
quantity to be employed with advantage for tanning, 
by reducing thein to chips or saw-(iust, and ihca 
boiling and using them in the following way: 
To tan calf or other thin shins. 

Put 1 cwt. of the limbs of branches, chopped as 
above, into a copper containing about 60 gallons 
of water, and boil till tiie water be reduced to 
from 35 to 4-0 gallons: draw off the decoction. 

Now add to the same limbs or branches 40 gal- 
lons of water, and again boil till the water be re- 
duced to about 25 gallons. The liquor thus pro- 
duced by the second boiling is used as a weak ooze, 
in the first process of immersing the calf skins 
after they come from the scouring beam. The 
decoction' first produced, is then to be used in thu 
same way. 

To tan hides. 

Take 1 cwt. of the limbs or branches, J cwt. of 
oak saw-dust, (the sooner after being made the 
better,) and ^ cwt. of the i-oot; boil in 80 galls, of 
water, till reduced to from 50 to 60 gallons. Draw 
off the decoction, and put it aside for use. To the 
materials left in the copper add CO gallons of water 
and again boil, till reduced to from 30 to 35 gal- 
lons. The liquor produced by this second boiling 
is to be employed in tlie first stage of tanning hides 
after they come from the beam; and afterwards the 
decoction first produced is to be employed. Tha 
skin and hides having undergone the before-men- 
tioned process, add as much oak bark, or tan-li- 
quor, or both, to the respective decoctions, as is 
necessary to complete the tanning. • The quantity 
of each will vary according to the strength of sucU 
decoctions; which strength will depend on the ag© 
and size of the tree, and other circumstances. 

Anotlier. — As soon as the wool or hair is pidled 
ov taken off, let the hide or skin be dipped into 
water and unclergo the operation of fleshing. It 
should then be dipped again into water, and undergo 
the operation called skudding; after which it will 
be in a slate fit to be tanned, tawed, or dressed. 



TANNING. 



281 



This process occupies much less time, and occa- 
sions less labour and expense, than that in general 
practice, which consists in immersing the skins in 
lime-pits, for several weeks, to be afterwards 
drenched and purified. 

J\'etv process of ia7i7iin^. 

Oak saw-dust and slips of oak, cut thin, and 
even the leaves of that tree, contain a sufficient 
quantity of the tanning principle, to recommend 
it as advantageous in the manufacturing of leather. 
To tan calf and sheep skins, or other light articles, 
take 100 lbs. of thin oak slips, boil them in 60 
gallons of water reduced to 40, leave it to depose, 
and then decant it; afterwards pour 40 gallons of 
fresh water on the residue and boil it till reduced 
to 25 gallons, immerse the skin into the last decoc- 
tion, after receiving the accustomed preparations, 
tlien put them into the liquor first prepared, and 
let them remain till fully saturated w ith the search- 
ing powers of the vegetable liquid. 

To convert sheep skins into leather. 

Sheep skins, which are used for a variet_v of pur- 
poses, such as gloves, book covers, 8cc. and whicii, 
•when dyed, are converted into mock Morocco 
leather, are dressed as follows: — Tiiey are first to 
be soaked in water and handled, to separate all 
impurities, which may be scraped oft" by a blunt 
knife on a beam. They are then to be hung up in 
a close warm room to putrefy. This putrefaction 
loosens ttie wool, and causes the exudation of an 
oily and slimy matter, all which are to be removed 
bj' the knife. The skins are now to be steeped in 
milk of lime, to harden and tliicken; here they 
remain for a month or 6 weeks, according to cir- 
cumstances, and Mhen taken out, they are to be 
smoothed on the fleshy side by a sharp knife. They 
are now to be steeped in a bath of bran and water, 
where they undergo a partial fermentation, and 
become thinner in their substance. 

The skins, which are now called pelts, are to be 
•immersed in a solution of alum and common salt 
in water; in the proportion of 120 skins to 3 lbs. 
of alum and 5 lbs. of salt. Tliey are to be much 
agitated iu this compound saline bath, in order to 
become firm and tough. From this bath they are 
to be removed to another, composed of bran and 
water, where tliey remain until quite pliant by a 
sliglit fermentation. To give their upper surfaces 
« gloss, they are to be trodden in a wooden tub, 
■with a solution of yolks of eggs in water, previ- 
ously well beaten up. Wlieu this solution has 
become transparent, it is a proof that the skins 
have absorbed the glazing matter. The pelt may 
now be said to be converted into leather, which is 
to be drained from moisture, hung upon hooks in 
a warm apartment to dry, and smoothed over with 
■warm hand-irons. 

To prepare sheep leather for various elegant pur- 
poses, by dyeing. 

The skins, when taken from the lime-bath, are 
immersed in one composed of dog and pigeon 
dung, dissolved by agitation in water: here they 
remain until the lime is separated, and until the 
ekins have attained the state of soft pliable pelt. 
To dye this pelt red, the skins are to be washed 
and sewed into bags, and stuffed with clippings 
and shavings of leather, or any other convenient 
substance; and immersed, with the grain side out- 
wards, in a bath of almn and cochineal, of the 
temperature of 170 or 180 degrees Fahr. where 
thev are to be agitated until they are sufficiently 
dyed. Each bag is now to be transferred to a 
Buraach bath, where they receive consistency and 
tenacity. Fiom this bath it is customary to remove 
the skins, and to plunge them into a saifron one, 
to improve their colour. 

To dye these skins black, tlie washed pelt is to 
2 h 



be first immersed in the sumach bath, and then to 
be rubbed over on the grained side, by a stiff' brusli 
dipped in a solution of acetate, or pyrolignite of 
iron. 

To give these skins the grain and polish of Mo- 
rocco leather, they are first oiled, and tlien rubbed 
on a firm board, by a convex piece of solid glass, 
to whicli a handle is attached. Tiie leatiier being 
now rendered more compact, is rubbed or pressed 
hard, by a sharply grooved boxwood instrument, 
shaped like the glass one just described. 

Lamb and kid skins are dressed, tanned, and 
dyed in a similar manner. 

To manufacture real Morocco leather. 

Goat skins are cleansed by soaking them in 
water, have their hair removed, and ai-e lined as 
in the before-mentioned processes. They then un- 
dergo a partial fermentation, by a bath of bran and 
water, and are afterwards immersed iu another batli 
of white figs and water, where they remain for five or 
six days. It is now necessar)' to dip them in a so- 
lution of salt and water, to fit tiiem for dyeing. 
To communicate a red colour, the alum and cochi- 
neal bath is to be used as for slieep skins; for 
black, sumach, and iron liquor as before; and for 
yellow, the bath is to be composed of alum and 
the pomegranate bark. 

The tanning, dressing, and graining are the 
same as for sheep skins. 

Original method. 

Tlie skins being first dried iu the air, are steeped 
in water three days and nights; tlien stretched on a 
tanner's horse, beaten with a large knife, and 
steeped afresh in water every day; they are then 
thrown into a large vat on the ground, full of wa- 
ter, where quicklime has been slaked, and there lie 
15 days, whence they are taken, and again returned 
every night and morning. They are next thrown 
into a fresh vat of lime and water, and shifted 
night and morning for 15 days longer; then rinsed 
in clean water, and the hair taken ort" on the leg 
with the knife, returned into a third vat, and shift- 
ed as before for 18 days; steeped twelve hours iu 
a river, taken out, rinsed, put in pails, where they 
are pounded with wooden pestles, changing tlie 
water twice; tlien laid on the horse, and the flesh 
taken off; returned into pails of new water, taken 
out, and the hair-side scraped; returned into fresh 
pails, taken out, and thrown into a pail of a parti- 
cular form, having holes at bottom; here they are 
beaten for the space of an hour, and fresh water 
poured on from time to time; then being stretched 
on the leg, and scraped on eitiier side, they are re- 
turned into pails of fresh water, taken out, stretch- 
ed, and sewed up all round, in the manner of 
bags, leaving out tlie hinder legs, as an aperture 
for the conveyance of a mixture described below. 

The skins thus sewed are put to luke-warm wa- 
ter, where dog's excrements have been dissolved. 
Here they are stirred with long poles for half an 
hour, left at I'est for twelve hours, taken out, rinsed 
in fresh water, and filled by a tunnel with a prepa- 
ration of water and sumach, mixed and heated over 
the fire till i-eady to boil; and, as they are filled, 
the hind legs are sewed up to stop the passage. la 
this state they are let down into the vessel of wa- 
ter and sumach, ant], kept stirring for four hours 
successively; taken out and heaped on one another: 
after a little time their sides are changed, and thus 
they continue an hour and a half till drained. This 
done, they are loosened, and filled a second time 
witli the same preparation, sewed up again, and 
Kept stirring two hours, piled up and drained as 
before. This process is again repeated, witli this 
difference, that they are then only stirred a quar- 
ter of an hour; after which they are left till 
next morning, when they are taken out, drained ou 

r2 



282 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



a rack, nnsewed, the sumach taken out, folded in 
two from head to tail, the hair-sule outwards, laid 
over each other on the leg, to perfect their drain- 
ing, stretched out and dried: tlien trampled under 
foot hv two and two, stretched on a wooden table, 
what flesh and sumach remains scraped oft", the 
hair-side rubbed over with oil,-and that again with 
water. 

Thev are then wrung with the hands, stretched, 
and pressed tight on tlie table with an iron instru- 
ment like that of a currier, the flesii-side upper- 
most; then turned, and the liaiv-side rubbed sU'oiigly 
over witb a handful of rushes, to squeeze out as 
much of tlie oil remaining as possible. Tlie first 
coat of black is now laid on tlie hair-side, by 
means of a lock of luiir twisted and steeped in a 
kind of black dye, prepared of sour beer, where- 
in pieces of old rusty iron have been thrown. 
When half-dried in tlie air, they are stretched on 
r* table, rubbed over every way with a paumelle, or 
wooden-toothed instrument, to raise the grain, 
over wliich is passed a light couche of water, then 
sleeked by rubbing them with rushes prepared for 
the purpose. Tlius sleeked, they have a second 
couclie of black, then dried, laid on the table, rub- 
bed over with a paumelle of cork, to raise the grain 
again; and after a light couche of water, sleeked 
over anew; and to raise the grain a third time, a 
paumelle of wood is used. 

After tiie hair-side has received all its prepara- 
tions, the flesh-side is pared with a sharp knife 
for the purpose; the hair-side is strongly rubbed 
over with a woollen cap, liaving before given it 
a gloss with barberries, citron, or orange. The 
whole is finished by raising the grain lightly, for 
the last time, with the paumelle of cork; so that 
they are now fit for the market. 

To prepare red morocco. 

After steeping, stretching, scraping, beating, 
and rinsing the skins as before, they are at lengtli 
wrung, stretcdied on the leg, and passed after each 
other into water where alum has been dissolved. 
Tims alumed, they are left to drain till morning, 
then wrung out, pulled on the leg, aud folded from 
head to tail, the flesh inwards. 

In this state they receive their first dye, by 
passing them after one another into a red liquor, 
described liereafter. This is repeated again and 
again, till the skins have got their first colour; then 
tliey are rinsed in clean water, stretched on the 
leg, and left to drain 12 hours; thrown into water 
through a sieve, and stirred incessantly for a day 
with long poles; taken out, hung on a bar across the 
water all night, white against red, and red against 
white, and in the morning the water stirred up, 
and the skins returned into it for 24 liours. 
Ingredients for the red colour. 

The following is the quantity and proportions of 
the ingredients required for the red colour, for a 
parcel of thirty-six skins: 

Cochineal, 130 drachms, round suchet (crocus 
jndicus), 45 do.; gutta gamba, 15 do.; gum arable, 
10 do.; white alum pulverized, 10 do.; bark of the 
pomegranate tree, 10 do.; citron juice, 2 do.; com- 
mon water, 120 lbs. 

The alum i s gradually added to the other arti- 
cles, and boiled in a copper for about two hours, 
tiU'one-tenth part of the water be consumed. 
To manufacture leather in imitation of Morocco, 
from South Jlmerican horse hides. 

Soften the hides in water; then spread it on a 
tanner's beam, and let it be wrought with a knife 
on the flesh side, and subjected to the action of lime 
water. In the succeeding process it is treated as 
goat-skins for making morocco, i. e. put it into hot 
water, with dog's dung, to purify the animal juices; 
then let it be again wrought with a kuife on botli 



sides, on a tanner's beam; 'afterwards put it into 
blood-warm water with bran; and, finally, tan it 
with sumach. 

To manufacture Jiussia leather. 

Calf-skins steeped in a weak batli of carbonate 
of potass and water, are well cleaned and scraped, 
to have the hair, &c. removed. They are now 
immersed in another bath, containing dog and pi- 
geon's dung in water. Being thus fi-eed from the 
alkali, they are thrown into a mixture of oatmeal 
and water, to undergo a slight fermentation. To 
tan these hides, it is necessary to use birch bark 
instead of oak bark; and during the operation they 
are to be frequently handled or agitated. AVhen 
tanned, and perfectly dry, they are made pliable 
by oil and much friction; they are then to be rub- 
bed over gently with birch tar, which gives them 
that agreeable odour peculiar to this kind of lea- 
ther, and which secures them against the attacks ot 
moths and worms. I'his odour will presei've the 
leather for many years; and, on account of it, Rus- 
sia leather is much used in binding handsome and 
costly books. The marks, or intersecting lines on 
this leather, are given to it, by passing over its 
grained surface a heavy iron cylinder, bound round 
by wires. 
Use of the -vood and bark of the horse-chesnut tree. 

The bark of the horse-chesnut tree contains 
twice the quantity of tanning principle as that of 
the oak, and nearly twice as much colouring mat- 
ter as the best Campeachy logwood: its colouring 
matter is to that of Campeachy exactly as 18 5 7 
is to 1. 

The leather manufactured from it is firmer, 
more solid and flexible, than that from the oak. 
Besides, what renders it particularly valuable is, 
it contains a most powerful basis for black dyes 
and ink. Mixed with iron of copperas it changes 
to a bluish black. Its liquor, extracted by boiling, 
appears blue like indigo, but it produces on paper a 
most excellent black. In dyeing it possesses more 
affinity with wool than sumach; and its extracted 
colour contains that rare virtue in a dye, perma- 
nency of colour. 

To tan or dress ski?ts in white for gloves. 

Clean the skins from wool or hair, by laying 
them in a vat of slaked lime water for 5 or 6 
weeks. During this operation the lime and water 
are to be twice changed, and the skins are to be 
shifted every day, and when taken out for good, 
they are to be laid all night in a running water, to 
clear them from the forcing qualities of the lime: 
next lay them on a wooden leg by sixes, to get the 
flesh off; then they are to be laid in a vat with a 
little water, and to be fulled with wooden pestles 
for a quarter of an hour, after which rinse them 
well in a full vat of water; place them next on a 
clean pavement to drain, and afterwards cast them 
into a fresh pit of water, rinse them again, and re- 
lay them on the wooden leg, with their hair out- 
side, over which a whetstone is to be briskly 
rubbed, to fit them for further preparations. 
They are next to be put into a pit of water, mixed 
with wheaten bran, and stirred until the bran 
sticks to the wooden poles. They now arrive 
to a kind of fermentation, and as often as they rise 
on the top of the water, are to be i)lunged down; 
at the same time the liquor, now highly fermented, 
is to be fined. When the skins have done rising, 
take them out, and scrape away the bran with a 
knife on the leg: when sufticienlly drained give 
them their feeding. For 100 large sheep skins, 
take 8 lbs. of alum, and 3 lbs. of sea-salt, and 
melt the whole with water in a vessel. Pour the 
sofution out, while lukewarm, into a trough in 
whioa is 20 lbs. of the finest wheat flour, with the 
yolt 3f 8 doaen of eggs, of wliich mixed malerials 



TAXNING. 



2G3 



5 s formed a kind of paste, somewhat thicker than 
children's pap: next pour hot water into the trough 
where the paste was, mixing two spoonsful of the 
paste with it, with a wooden spoon, which will 
contain a sufficiency for 12 skins, and when the 
wliole is well incor])orated, put 2 dozen of the 
skins into it, taking care that the water is not too hot. 
After they have been in some time, take them se- 
verally out of the trough, and stretch them twice 
well out. After they have absorbed the paste, put 
tliem iuto tubs, and full as before. Let them lie in 
a vat 6 days, and hang them out to dry; in lair wea- 
ther, on cords or racks. Wlien dry, put tliem into 
bundles, just dipped in clean water, and drained; 
tlu'ow them into an empty tub, and having lain 
some time they are to be taken out and trampled 
under foot; hang them up a second time on the 
cords to dry, and finally smooth them upon u table 
ready for sale. 

To prepare sheep, goat, or kid-skins in oil, in 

imitation of c/iainois. 

Sheep skins. 

The skins, smeared witli quick-lime on the 
flesh)' side, are folded lengthways, the wool out- 
wards, and laid on heaps, to ferment 8 days; or if 
they had been left to (hy alter flaying, for fifteen 
days. 

Then thej- are washed out, drained, and half 
dried, laid on a wooden horse, the wool stri|)ped 
oft" with a round staft" for the purpose, and laid in 
a weak pit of slaked lime. 

After twenty-four hours they are taken out, and 
left to drain 24 more; then put into another strong 
pit. Then they are taken out, drained, and put in 
again by turns; which begins to disposethem to 
take oil; and this practice they continue for 6 
weeks in summer, or 3 months in winter; at the 
end whereof they are washed out, laid on the wood- 
en horse, and the surface of the skin on the wool 
side jieeled oft", to render them the softer; then 
made into parcels, steeped a night in the river, in 
winter more; stretched 6 or 7, one over another on 
the wooden horse; and the knife passed strongly 
on the fleshy side, to take off" any thing superfluous, 
and render the skin smootli. 

Then they are stretched, as before, in the river, 
and the same operation repeated on the wool side; 
then thrown into a tub of Avater and bran, which is 
brewed among the skins till the greater part sticks 
to them; and men separated into distinct tubs, till 
they swell, and rise of themselves above the water. 

By these means, the remains of the lime are 
cleared out; they are tlien wrung out, hung up to 
dry on ropes, and sent to the mill, with the quan- 
tity of oil necessary to fill them; the best oil is that 
of cod-fish. 

Here they are first thrown in bundles into the 
river for twelve hours, then laid in the mill-trough, 
and fulled without oil, till tliey are well softened; 
then 6iled with the hand, one by one, and thus 
formed into parcels of four skins each, which are 
milled, and dried on cords a second time, then a 
third; then oiled again, and dried. 

This is repeated as often as necessary; when 
done, if any moisture remains they are dried in a 
stove, and made up in parcels wrapped up in wool; 
after some time they are opened to the air, but 
wrapped up again as before, till the oil seems to 
liave lost ail its force, which it ordinarily does in 
twenty-four hours. 

To scoxir tJie sMtu. 

The skins are now returned to the chamoiser, 
to be scourged, by putting them into a lixivium of 
wood-ashes, working and beating them in it with 
poles, and leaving them to steep till the ley has had 
itseft'ect; then wrung out, steeped in another lix- 
ivium, wrung again, and this repealed till the 



grease and oil are purged out. They are then 
half-dried, and passed over a sharp-edged iron in- 
strument, placed perpendicularly in a block, which 
opensand softens them: lastly, they are thoroughly 
dried, and passed over the same instrument again, 
which finishes the preparation. 

A7f/ mul goat skins. 

Kid, and goat-skins, are chamoised in the same 
manner as tliose of sheep, excepting that the hair 
is taken oft" by heat; and that when brought from 
the mill they undergo a preparation called ramal- 
ling, the most difficult of all. 

It consists in this, that as soon as brought from 
the mill they are steeped in a fit lixivium; taken 
out, stretched on a round wooden leg, and the hair 
scraped off" with the knife; this makes them smooth, 
and in working cast a fine nap. The difficulty is 
in scra[>ing them evenl3^ 

To dress hare, mole, or rabbit skins. 

Take a tea-spoonful of alum, and two of salt- 
petre, 6oth finely powdered: mix them well; sprin- 
kle the powder on tiie flesh side of the skins, tlien 
lay the two salted sides together, leaving the fut 
outward; roll the skin exceedingly tight, and tie it 
round with packthread; hang it in a dry place for 
some' days, then open it, and if sufficiently dry 
scrape it quite clean with a blunt knife, and keep 
it in a dry situation. This finishes the process. 

It may not be generally known, that the bitter 
apple bruised and put into muslin bags, will eff'ec- 
tually prevent furs from being destroyed by moths. 
To make parchment. 

This article is manutactured from sheep skins, 
cleared from lime. The skin is stretched on a 
frame wiiei'e the flesh is pared off* with an iron 
circular knife; it is then moistened with a rag, and 
whiting spread over it; the workman then, with a 
large pumice-stone, flat at the bottom, rubs over 
the skin, and scours oft" the flesh. He next goes 
over it with the iron instrument as before, and rubs 
it carefully with the pumice stone without clialk; 
this serves to smoo(h the ttesh-side. He drains 
it again by passing over it the iron instrument as 
before; he passes it over the wool side, then streteli- 
es it tight on a frame. He now throws more whit- 
ing and sweeps it over with a piece of woolly 
lamb-skin. It^ is now dried, and taken off" the 
frame by cutting it all round. Thus prepared, it 
is taken out of the skinner's hands by the parchment 
maker, who, while it is dry, pares it on a summer, 
(which is a calf-skin stretched in a frame,) with a 
sharper instrument than tliat used by the skinner, 
who, working it with the arm from the top to the 
bottom of the skin, takes away about h^f its sub- 
stance. It is again rendered smooth by the pumice- 
stone, whicli leaves the parchment finished. 
To convert old parchment or vellum into leather. 

Soak and wash the skins well and often in soft 
water for 24 hours; then remove them for the same 
period into a bath composed of 1^ lb. of white 
vitriol, 1 lb. of cream of tartar, and 1 oz. of sal 
ammoniac, dissolved in 20 gallons of water. Next 
add 10 lbs. of vitriolic acid, 1 lb. of nitric acid, 
and 1 pint of spirit of salt, in which steep the skins 
for a short time to purge away the old lime: next 
wash them clear of the acid, and rinse them as dry 
as possible, without damaging the skins. They 
are then to be put into a tanning liquor, composed 
of 20 lbs. of oak bark, 7 lbs. of sumach, 5 lbs. of 
elm-bark, S lbs. of sassafras, and the same quan- 
tity of lignum vitse shavings, portioned to 20 gal- 
lons of water, and previously warmed for 12 hours, 
and cooled down to a new-milk warmth, before the 
skins are immersed. 

To make vellum. 

This is a species of parchment made of the skms 
of abortives, or suckling calves: it has a much finer 



284 



UNH'ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



prain, and is white and smoother than parchment, 
hut is prcpairil in liic siniie maniii;r, except its not 
hi-iii'^' passed throM-j;h tlie lime-pit. The ai-ticle is 
n-i.-d for bifidin-j superior books, and covering of 
(hum heads. 

7'o preserve leather from mouhl. 

Pvroli?neous acid mav he "used wiih success in 
preserving leather from 'the attacks of mouldiness, 
and is serviceable in recovering it after it has re- 
ceived that species of damage, by passing it over 
the surface of the hide or skin, first taking due 
care to exi)unge the mouldy spots by the applica- 
tion of a diy cloth. This'remedy will prove of 
c<|ual service if applied to hoots, shoes, kc. when 
damaged in the same manner. 

To curry leather. 

This process prepares leatlier to be made up into 
boots, shoes, saddles, kc. and is performed upon 
Oie flesh or grain: in dressing on the flesh, the first 
operation is soaking the leather until it he tho- 
rougly wet, then the flesh side is shaved on a 
wooden beam. The knife used is of a rectangular 
form, with a handle at each end, ami a double edge; 
after the skin is properly shaved, it is thrown into 
water again and scoured upon a board by rubbing 
tlie gi'aln or hair side with a piece of pumice- 
stone, by which means the substance is produced 
out of the leather called " the bloom." The hide 
is then conveyed to the drying place when the sub- 
stance is applied, consisting of a mixture of cod 
oil and Russian tallow, principally upon the flesh 
aide; it is now waxed, which is done by rubbing 
It with a brash dipped in oil and lamp black on the 
flesli side; it is then sized with a brush or sponge 
<!ried and tallowed; this is called wax leather. I'o 
black leather on the grain the first operation is the 
same till it is scoured. Then a brush dipped in 
urine is rubbed over the leather, and after it is dry 
it Is again rubbed over with a brush dipped in 
copperas water, and after, the grain is raised by a 
fine graining board, when it is finished and fit for 
the shoe-maker's use. 

To dye Jlhrocco and sheep leather. 
The follo\i ing colours may be imparted to lea- 



ther, according to the various uses for which it is 
intended. ' 

Bine. 

Hlue is given by steeping the subject a day ia 
urine and indigo, liien boiling it with alum; or it 
may he given by tempering the indigo with red 
wine, ami washing the skins therewith. 

.Another. — Boil elder lierries, or dwarf elder, 
then smear and wash the skins therewith, and 
wring them out; then boil the berries as before in 
a solution of alum water, and wet the skins in the 
same manner, once or twice; drj' them, and they 
will be very blue. 

Jied. 

Red is given by washing the skins, and laying 
tliem two hours in galls; then wringing them out, 
dipping ihexfi in a liquor made with ligustrum, 
alum, and verdigris, in water; and lastly in a dye 
made of lirazil-wood boiled with ley. 
Purple. 

Purple is given by wetting the skins with a so- 
lution of roche alum in warm water, and when 
diy, again rubbing them with the hand, with a de- 
coction of log-wood in cold water. 
Green. 

Green is given by smearing the skin with sap- 
green and alum-water boiled. 
Dark green. 

Dark green is given with steel filings and sal 
ammoniac, steeped in urine till soft, then smear- 
ed over the skin, which is to be dried in the 
shade. 

Yelloio. 

Yellow is given by smearing the skin over with 
aloes and linseed oil, dissolved and strained, or by 
infusing it in weld. 

Ligitt orange. 

Orange colour is given by smearing with fustie 
berries, boiled in alum water; or, for a deep orange, 
with turmeric. 

Sky-coloiir . 

Sky-colour is given with indigo steeped in boil- 
ing water, and the next morning warmed ani 
smeared over tlie skin. 



HORT3CVI.TURE. 



To cltoose the best soil for a garden. 
Prefer a sandy loam, not less than two feet deep, 
and good earth not of a binding nature in summer, 
nor retentive of rain in winter; but of such a tex- 
ture, that it can be worked without difficulty in 
any season of the year. There are few sorts of 
fruit-trees, or esculent vegetables, which require 
less depth of earth to grow in than two feet to 
bring them to perfection, and if the earth of the 
kitchen-garden be three or more feet deep, so 
much the better; for when the plants are in a state 
of maturity, if the roots even of peas, spinach, 
Kidney beans, lettuce, &c. be minutelv traced, they 
■will be found to penetrate into the earth, in search 
ot food, to the depth of two feet, provided the soil 
be ot a nature that allows them. If it can be done, 
a garden should be made on land whose bottom is 
not of a springy wet nature. If this rule can be 
observed, draining will be unnecessary; for when 
land is well prepared for the growth of fruit-trees 
and esculent vegetables, by trenching, manurino-, 
and digging, it is by tiiese means brought into sudi 



a porous temperament, that the rains pass through 
it without being detained longer than necessary .- 
If the land of a garden be of too strong a nature, 
it should be well mixed with sand, or scrapings of 
roads, where stones have been ground to pieces by 
carriages. 

To make gravel walks. 
The bottom should be laid with lime-rubbish, 
large flint stones, or any other hard matter, for 
eight or ten inches thick, to keep weeds from 
growing through, and over this the gravel is to be 
laid six or eight inches thick. This should be laid 
rounding up in the middle, by which means the 
larger stones will run off to the sides, and may be 
raked away; for the gravel should never be screen- 
ed before it is laid on. It is a common mistake to 
lay these walks too round, which not only makes 
them uneasy to walk upon, but takes off" from their 
apparent breadth. One inch in five feet is a suffi- 
cient proportion for the rise in die middle; so that 
a walk of twenty feet wide should be four inches 
higher at the middle than at the edges, and so ia 



HORTICULTURE, 



2Qr, 



proportion. As soon as (lie gravel is laid, it should 
be raketl, and the large stones thrown back again; 
then the whole should be rolled hoth lengthwise 
and crosswise; and the person who draws the roll- 
er should wear shoes with fiat heels, that he may 
make no holes, because holes made in a new walk 
are not easily remedied. The walks should al- 
ways be rolled three or four times after verv hard 
showers, from which they will bind more firmly 
than otherwise they could ever be made to do. 
To prepare hot-beds, manures, and composts. 
Stable-dung is in the most general use for form- 
ing hot-ljeds, which ai'e masses of tliis dung after 
it has undergone its violent fermentation. 

Bark is only preferable to dung, because the 
substance which undergoes the process of putrid 
fermentation requires longer time to decay. Hence 
it is found useful in the bark pits of hot-iiouses, as 
requiring to be seldomer moved or renewed than 
dung, or any other substance. 

Leaves, and especially oak leaves, come the 
nearest to hark, and have the additional advantage, 
that when perfectly rotten like dung, tliey form a 
rich mould, or excellent manure. 

Tlie object of preparation in these three sub- 
stances being to get rid of the violent heat which 
is produced when the fermentation is most power- 
ffil, it is obvious that preparation must consist in 
facilitating the process. For this purpose, a cer- 
tain degree of moisture and air in the fermenting 
bodies are requisite; and hence tlie business of the 
gardener is to turn tliem over frequently, and ap- 
ply M'ater when the process appears impeded, and 
exclude rain, when chilled with too much water. 

Recent stable dung generally requires to lie a 
month in ridges or beds, and be turaed over in that 
time thrice before it is fit for cucumber-beds of 
the common construction; but for Mc Phail's hot- 
beds, or for linings, or for frames with moveable 
bottoms, three weeks, a fortnight, or less, will suf- 
fice; or no time at all need be given, but the dung 
formed at once into linings. Tan and leaves re- 
quire, in general, a month. P'ermentation is al- 
ways most rapid in summer; and if the materials 
are spread abroad during frost, it is totally imped- 
ed. In winter the process of preparation gene- 
rally goes on under the back sheds; which situa- 
tion is also the best in summer, as full exposure to 
the sun and wind dries too much the e,\teiior sur- 
face; but where sheds cannot be had, it will go on 
Very well in the open air. Some cultivators have 
devised plans to economize heat by fermenting 
dung in vineries which are just beginning to be 
forced, or iu vaults under pine pits, or plant stoves. 
7'o form duii^ beds. 
In general, such beds are formed on a level sur- 
face; l)Ut Mr T. A. Knight's plan is, to form a sur- 
face of eartli as a basis, which shall incline to the 
horizon to the extent of 15 degrees: on this he 
forms the dung-bed to the same inclination; and fi- 
nally, tiie frame, when placed on such a bed, if, as 
is usual, it be deepest behind, will present its 
glass at an angle of '20 degrees instead of 6 or 8, 
•u'bich is, undoubtedly, of great advantage in the 
winter season. 

Ashes are often mixeij with the dung of hot- 
beds, and are supposed to promote the steadiness 
and duration of their heat; and at least to revive it, 
if somewhat decayed. Tan leaves have also been 
used for the same purpose; and it is generally 
found that about one-third of tan and two-thirds of 
(Jung will form a more durable and less violent 
lieat, than a bed wholly of dung. The heat of 
dung-beds is revived by linings or collateral and 
surrounding walls or hanks ot fresh dung, the old 
dung of the bed being previously cut down close 
lo the frames; and, in severe weather, tlie sides of 



the bed are often protected by bundles of straw or 
faggots. 

The residuum of heats, properly reduced by 
keeping, is a good simple manure for most fruit- 
trees, and excellent in a compost; but where the 
soil is naturally cold, a little ashes of coals, wood, 
strav/, or burnt turf, or a minute proportion of soot, 
ought to be incorporated with it. Hog-dung has 
a peculiar virtue in invigorating weak trees. Rot- 
ted turf, or any vegetable refuse, is a general ma- 
nure, excellent for all soils not already too rich. 
One of the Itest correctives of too rich a soil is 
dritt sand. For an exhausted soil, where a fruit- 
tree that has been an old profitable occupant is 
wished to be continued, a di-cssing of animal mat- 
ter is a powerful restorative; such as hogs' or bul- 
locks' !)lood, offal from tlie slaughter-house, refuse 
of skins and leather, decomposed carrion, &c. 
The drainings of dung, laid on as mulch, are high- 
ly serviceable. 

It is very proper to crop the gi'ound among new 
planted orchard trees for a few years, in wder to 
defray the expense of hoeing and cultivating it, 
which should be done until the temporary plants 
are removed, and the w hole be sown down in grass. 
As the trees begin to produce fruit, begin also to 
relinquish cropping. When by their productions 
they defray all expenses, crop no longer. 
To make composts for manure. 
During hot weather, says Knight, I have all the 
offals in the garden, sucli as weeds leaves of straw- 
berries, and other vegetables, short grass, peas, 
and asparagus haulm, with the foliage of trees and 
shrubs when newly shed, carefully collected into 
a heap. These are all turned over and mixed dui-- 
ing the winter, that they may be sufficiently rotted 
to mix with the dung against the end of summer. 
I have also another heap formed with the prunings 
from gooseberry and currant bushes, fruit-ti-ees, 
raspberry slioots, clippings of box-edgings, and 
loppings from shrubs; also the roots of greens and 
cabbages: which are generally burnt at two difterent 
periods in the j-ear, viz. in spring and autumn, but 
previous to each burning, I endeavour to pare up 
all the coarse grasses around the garden, with a 
portion of the soil adhering thereto; and when- 
ever these are sufficiently dried, have them col- 
lected to the heap intended to be burnt. The fire 
is kindled at a convenient distance from the heaps, 
and a portion of such as burn most easily is first 
applied, until the fire has gained a considerable 
power. After this, the process of burning is con- 
tinued, by applj'ing lighter and heavier substances 
alternately, that the one may preserve the action 
of the fire, and the otlier prevent it from reducing 
them too much to asbes. When the whole are 
thus consumed, a quantity of mould is thrown 
over the heap to prevent the fire from breaking 
through; and w!ienever it can be broke into with 
safety, it is then mixed up into a dunghill with the 
rotted vegetables, moss-earth, and stable-yard 
dung, in sucii proportions as is likely to insure a 
moderate fermentation, which is generally com- 
pleted in three or four weeks; at which time it is 
most advantageously applied, in having it carried 
to the groimd, and instantly dug in. 

To make composts for moulds. 
Composts are mixtures of several earths, or 
earthy substances or dungs, either for the improve- 
ment of the general soil under culture, or for the 
culture of particular plants. 

In respect to composts for the amendment of 
the genei-al soil of the garden, their quality must 
depend upon that of the natural soil: if tliis be 
light, loose, or sandy, it may be assisted by heavy 
loams, clays, &c. from ponils and ditches, clean- 
ings of Sewers, Sic Ou the other hand, heav7, 



28G 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



clavev, and all stubborn soils, may be assisted by 
li-'bt'cumposts of saiidv earth, drill, and sea-sand, 
lUl- sboveliii!<5 of turnpike roads, the cleansuii,' ot 
streets, all kinds of ashes, rotten tanner's bark, 
rotlen wood, saw dust, and other similar ligbt 
opening materials, tliut caa be most conveniently 
procured. 

To make composts for plants. 

These may be reduced to light sandy loam from 
old pastures: strong loam approaching nearly to 
brick earth from the same source: peat earth, from 
the surface of heaths or commons; bog earth, from 
bogs or morasses; vegetable earth, from decayed 
lea°ves, stalks, cow-dung, See. sand, either sea- 
sand, drift-sand, or powdered stone, so as to be as 
fi-ce as possible from iron; lime-rubbish; ajid last- 
ly common garden earth. There are no known 
plants that will not grow or thrive in one or oilier 
of these carliis, alone or mixed with some other 
earth, or with rotten dung or leaves. Nurserymen 
have seldom more thau three sorts of earth: loam, 
approaching to the qualities of brick-earth; peat 
or bog-earth; and the common soil of their nurse- 
ry. Witli these and the addition of a little sand 
for striking plants, some sifted lime-rubbish for 
succidents, and some well-rotted cow-dung for 
bulbs, and some sorts of trees, they continue to grow 
thousands of difterent species in as great or greater 
perfection as in their native countries, and many, 
as the pine, vine, camelia, rose, Sec. ia a superior 
manner. 

To prepare composts. 

The prgparation necessary for heavy and light 
composts for general enrichment, and of the above 
•litferent earths, consists in collecting each soil in 
the compost ground, in separate ridges of three or 
four feet broad, and as high, turning them every 
six weeks or two months for a year or a year and 
a half before they are used. Peat earth, being 
generally procured in tlie state of turves full of the 
roots and tops of heath, requires two or three years 
to rot; but, after it has lain one year, it may be 
sifted, and what passes through a small sieve will 
be found fit for use. Some nurserymen use both 
these loams and peats as soon as procured, and find 
them answer perfectly for most plants; but for deli- 
cate flowers, and especially bulbs, and all florists' 
flowers, and for all composts in wliicii manures 
enter, not less than one year ought to be allowed 
for decomposition, and v hut is called sweetening. 
To make a gveen-lwuse or conseiTatory. 

The depth ot green-houses sliould never be 
greater than their height in the clear; which, in 
small or middling houses may be 1Q or 18 feet, but 
in large ones from 20 to 24 feet; and the lengtii of 
the windows should reach from about one foot and 
a half above the pavement, and withia the same 
distance of the ceiling. 

The floor of the green-house, which should be 
laid either with Bremen sijuares, Purbeck stone, 
or flat tiles, must be raised two feet above the sur- 
face of the adjoining ground, or, if the situation be 
damp, at least three feet; and if the whole is arch- 
ed Willi low brick arches under the floor, they will 
be of great service in preventing damp; and under 
the floor, about two feet from the front, it will be 
very advisable to make a flue of ten inches wide 
and' two feet deep; this should be carried the wlioie 
length of the house, and then returned back along 
the liindei- part, and there be carried up into fun- 
nels adjoining to the tool-house, by which the 
smoke may be carried oft". The fire-place may be 
centiived at one end of the house, and the door at 
M-liich the luel is put in, as also the ash-grate, may 
be contrived to open into the tool-house 



south, one of the wings may be made to face the 
south-east, and the other, the south-west. By this 
disposition the heat of the sun is reflected from 
one part of the building to the other all dav', and 
the iront of the main green-house is guarded from 
the cold winds. These two wings may be so con- 
trived as to maintain plants of different degi-ees 
of hardiness, which may be easily effected by the 
situation and extent of the fire-place, and the man- 
ner of conducting the flues. 

The sloping glasses of these houses should be 
made to slide and take off, so that they may be 
drawn down more or less in warm weather to 
admit air to the plants; and the upright glasses in 
the front may be so conti'ived as that eveiy other 
may open as doors upon hinges, and the alternate 
glasses may be divided into two; the upper part of 
each should be so contrived as to be drawn down 
like sashes, so that either of them may be used to 
admit air in a greater or less quantity, as there 
may be occasion. As to the management of plants 
in a green-house, open the mould about them from 
time to time, and s[)riukle a little fresh mould in 
them, and a little warm dung on that; also water 
them when the leaves })egiii to wither and curl, and 
not oflener, which would make them fade and Le 
sickly: and take off such leaves as witlier and grow 
dry. 

To propagate vegetables. 

Plants are universally propagated by seed, but 
partially also by germs or bulbs, suckers, runners, 
slips, and oft'sets, and artificially by layers, inn- 
arching, grafting, budding, and cutting. 

'I'lie propagation by seed is to make sure of live 
seeds; for some lose their vitality very early alter 
being gathered, while others retain it only for one 
or perhaps two seasons; some seeds also are injur- 
ed, and others improved by keeping. The size of 
seeds requires also to be taken into consideration, 
for on this most frequently depemls the depth 
which they require to be buried in the soil; the 
texture of their skin or covering must be attended 
to, as on this often depends the time they require 
to be buried in the soil previously to germination. 
On the form and surface of the outer coating of 
seeds sometimes depends the mode of sowing, as 
in the carrot, and on their qualities in general de- 
pends their liability to be attacked by insects. The 
nature of the oftspring expects it, and the proper 
climate, soil, and season, require also to be kept 
in view in determining how, -« here, when, and in 
what quantity, any seetl must be sown. 

Germs or bulbs, cauline or radical, require in 
general to be planted iiv.mediately, or soon after 
removal from the parent plant, in light earth, about 
their own depth from the surface. Maturetl bulbs 
may be preserved out of the soil for some montlis, 
without injuiy to their vitality; but infant bulbs are 
easily dried up and injured when so treated. 

Slips are shoots which sprin-g fi-ora the collar or 
the upper part of the roots of herbaceous plants, 
as in auricular, and under shrubs, as thymes, &c. 
I'he shoot when the lower part from whence the 
roots proceed, begins to ripen or acquire a finn 
texture, is to be slipped or drawn from the parent 
plant, so far as to bring off a heel or claw of old 
wood, stem, or root, on which generally some 
roots, or rudiments of roots, are attached. I'he 
ragged parts and edges of this claw or rough sei/- 
tioii are then to be smoothed with a sharp knife, 
and the slip to be planted in suitable soil and shad- 
ed till it strikes root afresh. 

Tlie division of the plant is adopted in many 
species, as in grasses, the daisy, polyanthus, and a 
great variety of others. The plant is taken up. 



Whilst the frout of tlie green-house is exactly \ the earUi shaken from its roots; Uie whole is tliea 



HORTICULTURE. 



287 



separated, each piece containing a portion of root 
and stem, which maybe planted without fai'ther 
preparation. 

Willi certain species runners is a convenient and 
sure mode of propagation. AH that is requisite 
is, to ailow the plantlet on the shoot, or runner, to 
be well rooted before being separated from the pa- 
rent. It may llien be planted where it is finally 
to remain. 

Suckers are merely runners under ground; some 
run to a considerable distance, as the acacia, nar- 
row-leaved elm, sea-lime grass, &c.; others again 
are more limited in their migrations, as the lilac, 
syringa, Jerusalem artichoke, saponaria, 8cc. All 
that is necessaiy is, to dig them up, cut oiF each 
plantlet with a portion of root, after which its top 
may be reduced by cutting off tVoni one-fourth to 
one-half of the shoot, in order to fit it to tlie cur- 
tailed root, and it may then be planted, either in 
the nursery-department, or, if a strong plant, 
where it is finally to remain. 

Pro[)agation by layering. 

In general, the operation of layering in trees 
and shrubs is commenced before the ascent of the 
sap, or delayed till the ascent is fully up. Tlie 
shoot, or extremity of the shoot, intended to be- 
come a new plant, is half separated from the 
parent plant, at a few inches distance from its 
extremity, and while this permits the ascent of tlie 
sap at the season of its rising, the remaining half 
of them, being cut through and separated, forms a 
(lam or sluice to the descending sap, which, thus 
interrupted in its progress, exudes at the wound, 
in (he form of a granulous protuberance, which 
throws out roots. If the cut or notch in the stem 
does not jienetrate at least half way through, some 
sort of trees will not form a nucleus the first sea- 
son; on the other hand, if the notch be cut nearly 
through the shoot, a sufficiency of alburnum, or 
soft wood, is not left for the ascent of the sap, and 
the shoot dies. In delicate sorts it is not suflicient 
to cut a notch merely, because in that case, tlie 
descending sap, instead of throwing out gran'ilated 
matter, in the upper side of the wound, would de- 
scend by the entire side of the shoot; therefore, 
besides a notch formed by cutting out a portion of 
bark and wood, the notched side is slit up at least 
one inch, separating it by a bit of tsvig, or small 
splinter of stone or potsherd. The operation of 
layering is performed on herbaceous plants, as well 
as trees; and the part to become the future plant 
is, in both cases, covered with soil about a tliird 
of its length. 

When the layers are rooted, which will generally 
be the case by the autumn after the operation is 
performed, they are all cleared from the stools or 
main-plants, and the head of each stool, if to be 
continued for furnishing layers, should be dressed; 
cutting off all decayed scraggy parts, and digging 
the ground round them. Some fresh rich mould 
ehouid also be worked in, in order to encourage 
the production of tlie annual supply of shoots for 
layering. 

Propagation by inn-arching. 

A sort of layering, by the common or slit pro- 
cess, in which the talus, or heel, intended to throw 
out fibres, instead of being inserted in the soil, is 
inserted in the wood, or between the wood and 
bark of another plant, so as to incorporate with it. 
It is the most certain mode of propagation with 
plants diflicult to excite to a disposition for rooting; 
and when all other modes fail, this, when a proper 
description of slock or basis is to be found, is sure 
to succeed. 

The stocks designed to be inn-arched, and the 
tree from which the layer or shoot is to be bent or 
arched towards them, and put ia or uuiled, must 



be placed, if in pots, or planted if in the open soil, 
near together. Hardy trees of free growing kinos 
should have a circle of stocks planted round them 
every year in the same circumference, every other 
one being inn-arched the one year, and wlien re- 
moved, their places supplied by others. If the 
branches of the tree are too high for stocks in the 
ground, they should be planted in pots, and ele- 
vated on posts or stands, or supported from the 
tree, &c. 

To perform the operation, having made one of 
the most convenient branches or shoots approach 
the stock, mark, on the body of the shoot, the part 
where it will most easily join to the stock; and in 
that part of each shoot pare away the bark and part 
of the wood 2 or 3 inches in length, and in the 
same manner pare the stock in the proper place 
for the junction of the shoot; next make a slit uj)- 
wards in that pait of the branch or shoot, as in 
layering, and make a slit downward in the stock 
to admit it. Let the parts be tlien joined, slipping 
the tongue of the shoot into the slit of the stock, 
making both join in an exact manner, and tie them 
closely together with bags. Cover the whole af- 
terward, with a due quantity of tempered or 
grafting clay or moss. In hot-houses, care must 
be taken not to disturb the pots containing the 
plants operated on. 

JBy budding. 

Budding, or as it is sometimes called, gi-afting 
by gems, consists in taking an eye or bud attached 
to a portion of the bark of ligneous vegetables, of 
different sizes and forms, and generally called a 
shield, and transplanting it to another or a differ- 
ent ligneous vegetable. The object in view ia 
precisely that of grafting, and depends on the same 
principle; all the difierence between a bud and a 
scion being, that a bud is a shoot or scion in em- 
brj'o. Budded trees are two years later in pro- 
ducing their fruit than grafted ones; but the advan- 
tage of budding is, that where a tree is rare, a new 
plant can be got from every eye, whereas by graft- 
ing it can only be got from every tiiree or four 
eyes. There are also trees which propagate muih 
more readily by budding than grafting; and others, 
as most of the stone fruits, are apt to tlirow out 
gum when grafted. Budding is performed from 
the beginning of .July to the middle of August, the 
criterion being tlie formation of the buds in the 
axillx of the leaf of the present year. 

The buds are known to be ready by the shield, 
or portion of bark to which they are attached, 
easily parting with the wood. 

Shield budding 

Is performed as follows: — Fix on a smooth part 
on the side of the stock, rather from tlian towards 
the sun, and of a height depending, as in ti^raftiog, 
on whether dwarf, half, or whole standiird trees 
are desired; then, witii the budding knife, make 
a horizontal cut across the rind quite through the 
firm wood; from the middle of this transverse cut 
make a slit downward perpendicidarly, an inch or 
more long, going also quite through to the wood. 
Proceed with expedition to take ofi'a bud; liolding 
the cutting, or scion, in one hand, with the thickest 
end outward, and with the knife in tlie other hand, 
enter it about half an inch or more below a bud, 
cutting nearly half-way into the wood of the shoot, 
continuing it with one clean slanting cut, about 
half an inch more above the bud, so deep as to 
take off part of the Avood along with it, the whole 
about an inch and a half long- then directly with 
the thumb and finger, or point of the knife, slip 
off the woody ])art remaining to the bud; which 
done, observe whether the eye or gem of the bud 
remains perfect: if not, and a little hole appears 
in that part, the bud has lost its root, and another 



288 



UNIVERbAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



mnst 1)C prepared. Tli'is donc.^l.ice the back part 
of tlie 1)11(1 or sliield between ibe lips, and witli the 
flat haft of tlie knife, separate tlie bark of the 
stock on cacli si(l(,' of the perpendicuhu- cut, clear 
to the wood, for the admission of the bud, which 
directly slip down close between the wood and bark 
to the bntioni of the slit. Next cut olV the top part 
of the shield even with tbe horizontal cut, in order 
to let it coinpletelv into its place, and to join ex- 
actly the upper eii.^'e of the shield with the trans- 
verse cut, lbi\t the descending sap may immediately 
f nter tbe back of the shield, and protrude granu- 
lated matter between it and the wood, so as to 
effect a livinp; iniion. The parts are to be bound 
round with a ligament of fi-esh bass, previously 
soaked in w:iter, to render it jdiable and tough; 
begin a little below the bottom of tbe perpendicu- 
hu-' slit, proceeding upward closely round ever^' 
part, except just over the eye of tbe bud, and con- 
tinue it a little above tbe horizontal cut, not too 
tigtit, but just sutlicient to keep the bole close, and 
exclude the air, sun, and wet. 

Another method of hiulding. 
Trees are generally budded by making a trans- 
verse section in the bark of tbe stock, and a per- 
pendicular slit beneath it; the bud is then pushed 
down to give it the position which it is to have. 
This operation is not always successful, and it is 
better to employ an inverse or contrary method 
by making the vertical slit above the transverse 
section or cut, and pushing the hark containing the 
bud upwards into its proper position. This method 
very rarely fiils of success, because, as the sap 
descends by the bark, the bud placed above the 
transverse section receives abundance, whereas, 
if it be placed below the section, very little sap 
can ever get to it to promote the growth of the 
bud. Oil rubbed^iipon the stems and branches of 
fruit trees destroys insects, and increases the fruit- 
buds. Used upon the stems of carnations, it guards 
them against the depredations of the ear-wig. The 
coarsest oil will suit, and only a small quantity is 
required. 

Tn bud ivith double ligatures. 
This is a new and expeditious mode of budding 
by Mr T. A. Knight. The operations are per- 
formed in the manner above stated; but, instead of 
one ligature, two are applied; one above the bud, 
inserted upon the transverse section, through the 
bark; the otiier applied below in the usual way. 
As soon as the buds have attached themselves, the 
lower ligatures are taken off, but the others are 
suffered to remain. The passage of the sap up- 
wards is in consequence much obstructed, and the 
inserted buds begin to vegetate strongly in July 
(being inserted in June); and when these have af- 
lorded shoots about four inches long, the remain- 
ing ligatures are taken off, to permit the excess of 
sap to |)ass on; ;uid the young shoots are nailed to 
the wall. Being there properly exposed to light, 
tlieir wood will ripen well, and afford blossoms in 
the succeeding Spring. 

'1 'o graft trees. 
This is a mode of i)roi)agation applicable to 
most sorts of of trees and shrubs; but not easily to 
very small under-slirubs, as heath or herbaceous 
vegetables. It is chiefly used for continuing vari- 
eties of fruit trees. A grafted tree consists of two 
parts, the scion and the stock; their union consti- 
tutes the gi-.ift, and the performance of Use opera- 
tion is called grafting. 

The end of grafting is, first, to preserve and 
multiply varieties and sub-varieties of fruit trees, 
endowed accidentally or otherwise with particular 
qualities, wliich cannot be with certainty transfer- 
red to their oiVspring by seeds, and which would 
be multiplied too slowly, or ineffectually, by any 
Other mode of propajjation. 



Second, to accelerate the fructification of trees, 
barren as well as fruit bearing; for example, sup- 
pose two acorns of a new species of oak, received 
from a distant country; sow both, and after they 
have grown one or two years, cut one of them over, 
and graft the part cut off on a common oak of five 
or six years' growth; the consequence will be, that 
the whole nourishment of tiiis young tree of five 
vears' growth being directed towards nourishing 
the scion of one or two years, it will grow jnuch 
taster, and conse(|uently ari-ive at perfection much 
sooner than its fellow, or its own root left in thfe 
ground. 

The third use of grafting is to improve the qual- 
ity of fruits ; and the fourth to perpetuate varieties 
of ornamental trees or shrubs. 

Miiterials used in grafting. 

Procure a strong pruning-knife for cutting off 
tbe heads of the stocks previous to their prepara- 
tions by the grafting-knife for the scion; a small 
saw for larger stocks; and a pen-knife for very 
small scions^ chisel and mallet for cleft grafting; 
bass ribbons as ligatures; and grafting clay. 
Tu prepare grafting-clay. 

Grafting-clay is prepared either from stiff yel- 
low or blue clay, or from clayey loam or brick 
earth; in either case, adding thereto about a fourth 
part of fresh horse dung, free from litter, and a 
portion of cut hay, mixing the whole well together, 
and adding a little water: then let the -hhole be 
well beaten with a stick upon a floor, or other hard 
substance; and as it becomes too dry apply more 
water; at every beating, turning it over; and con- 
tinuing beating it well at top till it becomes flat and 
soft. This process must be repeated more or less 
according as tbe nature of the clay may require to 
render it ductile, and yet not so tough as to be apt 
to crack in dry weather. 

Whip grafting. 

AVhip — or, as it is sometimes called, tongue 
— grafting, is tlie most generally adopted in nur- 
series for propagating fruit-trees. /I'o effect this 
mode in the best style, the top of the stock, and 
the extremity of the scions, should be nearlv of 
equal diameter. Hence this variety admits ot be- 
ing performed on smaller stocks than on any other. 
It is called v\hip-grafting, from the method of cut- 
ting the stock and scions sloping on one side so as 
to fit each other, and thus tied together in the luan- 
nerof a whip-thong to the shaft or handle. 

The scion and stock being cut off obliquely, at 
corresponding angles, as near as the operator can 
guess; then cut off the tip of the stock obliquely, or 
nearly horizontally; make now a slit nearly in the 
centre of the sloped face of the stock downwards, 
and a similar one in the scion upwards. The 
tongue or wedge-like process, forming the upper 
part of the sloping face of the scion, is then inser- 
ted downwards in the cleft of the stock; the inner 
barks of both being brought closely to unite on one 
aide so as not to be displaced in tying, which ought to 
be done immediately with a ribband of bass, brought 
in a neat maimer several times round the stock, and 
which is generally done from right to left, or in the 
course of the sun. The next operation is to clay the 
whole over an inch thick on every side, from about 
half an inch or more below the bottom of the graft 
to an inch over the top of the stock, finishing the 
whole coat of clay in a kind of oval globular form, 
rather longways up and down, closing it effectual- 
ly about the scion and every part, so as no light, 
wet, nor wind, may penetrate; to prevent which is 
the whole intention of claying. 

Cleft grafting. 

This is resorted to in the case of strong stocks, 
or in heading down and re-grafting old trees. The 
head of the stock or branch is first cut off oblique- 
ly, and then the sloped pait is cut over horiaon- 



lANNlNG. 



269 



tally near the middle of the slope; a cleft nearly 
two' inclies long is made with a stout knife or chi- 
sel in the crown downwards, at riglu angles to the 
slcped part, taking care not to divide the pith. 
This cleft is kept open hy the knife. The scion 
lias its extrtmity for about an inch and a half, cut 
into tlie form of a wedge; it is left sJjout the eighth 
of an inch thicker on the outer side, and brought 
lo a fiue edge on the inside. It i? then inserted 
into the opening prepared for it; and the knife be- 
ing withdrawn, the stock closes firmly upon it. 
Cro~vn grafling. 
Tills is another mode adopted for thick stocks, 
shortened branches, or headed down trees. It is 
sometimes called grafting in the bark or rind, from 
the scion being inserted between the bark and wood. 
This mode of grafting is jierformed with best ef- 
feet, somewhat later than the others, as the motion 
of the sap renders the bark and wood of tlie stock 
much more easily separated for the admission of 
the scions. 

In pe'-forming tliis operation, first cut or saw off 
the head of the stock or branch horizontally or le- 
vel, and pare the top smooth; then having the sci- 
ons cut one side of each Hat, and somewhat slop- 
ing, an inch and a half long, forming a sort of 
shoulder at the top of the slope, to rest upon the 
crown of the stock; and tlien raise tiie rind of the 
stock with tiie ivory wedge, forming the handle of 
the budding knife; so as to admit tlie scion be- 
tween that and the wood 2 inches down; which 
done, place the scion with the cut side next the 
wood, thrusting it down far enough for the shoul- 
der to rest upon the top of the iitock; and in this 
manner may be put three, four, five, or more sci- 
ons in one large stock or branch. It is alleged as 
a disadvantage attending tliis method in exposed 
situations, that the ingrafted shoots for two or three 
years are liable to be blown out of the stock by vio- 
lent winds; the only remedy for which is, tying 
long rods to the body of the stock or branch, and 
tying ui) each scion and its shoots to one of the 
rods. 

Sale grafting. 

This method resembles whip grafting, but dif- 
fers in' being performed on the side of the stock, 
without bending down. It is practised on wall 
trees, to fill up vacancies, and sometimes in order 
to have a variety of fruits upon tlie same 'tree. 
Having fixed upon those parts of the bi-anches 
vhere wood is wanting to furnish the head or any 
part of the tree, then slope off" the bark and a lit- 
tle of the wood, and cut the lower end of the sci- 
ons to fit die part as near as possible, then join 
them to the branch, and tie them with bass, and 
clay tiiem over. 

Saddle grafting. 

This is performed by first liuttirig the top of the 
stock into a wedge-like form, and then splitting up 
the end of the scion, and thinning oft' each half to 
a tongue-shape; it is then placed on the wedge, 
embracing it on each side, and the inner barks are 
made to join on one side of the stock, as in cleft 
grafting. This is a very strong and handsome mode 
lor standard tree.l, when grafted at the standard 
height. It is also desirable for orange-trees, and 
rose-sUxndards, as it makes a hand'some finish, 
covering a part of the stock, which, by the other 
methods, long remains a black scar, and sometimes 
never becomes covered with bark. The stocks for 
this purpose should not be much thicker than the 
scions, or two scions may be insei'ted. 
Stioukkr or chirih grafting. 

This is performed with a shoulder, and some- 
times also with a stay at the bottom of the slope. 
It is chiefly used for ornamental trees, where the 
scion and stock are of the same size. 
■2. M 



Root grafting. 
Root-grafting is sometimes performed in nurse- 
ries on parts of the roots of removed trees. Wlien 
the proper stocks are scarce; in which case, the 
root of the white thoin has been resorted to as a 
stock both for the apple and pear. In general, 
however, a pieceof the root of the tree of the same 
geims is selected, well furnished with fibres, and 
a scion placed on it in any of the ordinaiy ways for 
small stocks. Thus united, they are planted so 
deep as to cover the ball of clay, and leave only a 
few eyes of the scion above ground. 

In u month after grafting, it may be ascertained 
whether the scion has united with the stock, by ob- 
serving the progress of its buds; but, in general, it 
is not safe to remove the clay for three months 
or more, till the graft be completely cicatrized. 
The clay may generally be taken otf in July or 
August, and at the same time the ligatures loosen- 
ed where the scion seems to require more room to 
expand: a few weeks afterwards, when the parts 
have been thus partially inured to the air, and when 
there is no danger of the scion being blown olf by 
winds, the whole of the ligatures may be removed. 
To choose scions. 
Scions are those shoots which, united with the 
stock, form the graft. They should he gathered 
several weeks before the season for grafting arrives. 
It is desirable that the sap of the stock should be in 
brisk motion at the time of grafting; but by tliis 
time the buds of the scion, if left on the parent tree, 
would be equally advanced, whereas the scions, 
being gathered early, the buds are kept back, and 
ready only to swell out when placed on the stock. 
Scions of pears, plums, and cherries, are collected 
in the end of January, or beginning of February. 
They are kept at full length sunk in dry earth, and 
out of the reach of frost till wanted, which is some- 
times from ti-.e middle of February to the middle 
of March. Scions of apples are collected any lime 
in February, and put in from the middle to the 
end of March. In July grafting, the scions are 
used as gathered. 

To choose cuttings. 
In respect to the choice of cuttings, those 
I branches of trees and shrubs which are thrown out 
I nearest the ground, and especially such as recline, 
j or uearly so, on the earth's surface, have always 
i the most tendency to produce roots. -Even tfie 
j branches of resinous trees, which are extremely 
(iifiicult to propagate by cuttings, when reclining on 
' the ground, if accidentally, or otherwise, covered 
I with earth in any part, will there throw out roots, 
1 and the extremity of the lateral shoot will assume 
the character of a main stem, as may be sometimes 
seen in the larch, spruce, and silver fir. 
I The choice of cuttings then is to be made from 
the side shoots of plants, rather than from their 
1 summits or main stems, and the strength and health 
j of side shoots being equal, those nearest the ground 
I should be preferred. The proper time for taking 
I cuttings from the mother plant is, when the sap is 
I in full motion, in order that, in returning by the 
I bark, it may form a callus or protruding ring of 
i granular substance between the bark and wood, 
; whence the roots proceed. As this callus, or ring 
of spongy matter, is generally best formed in ri- 
pened wood, the cutting, when taken from the 
mother plant, should contain a part of the former 
year, or in plants which grow twice a year, of the 
wood of the former growth; or in the case of plants 
which are continually growing, as most evergreen 
exotics, such wood as has begun to ripen or as- 
sume a brownish colour. This is the true princi- 
ple of the choice of cuttings as to time; but there 
are many sorts of trees, as willow, elder, Sec. th« 
cuttings of which will grow almost at any season. 



J90 



UNIVERS.yL, RECEIPT BOOK. 



and especially if removed from the mother plant in 
vinter, when tlie sap is at rest. 

These ought always to be cut across, with tlie 
smoothest and soundest section possible at an eye 
ci-joint. And as bnds are in a more advanced 
state in wood somewhat ripened or fully formed, 
than in forming wood, this section ous^ht to be 
inude in tiie wood of the growth of the preceding 
season; or as it were in the point between thetwo 
growths. It is a common practice to cut off the 
vliole or a part of the leaves of cuttings, which is 
alwavs attended with had effects in evergreens, in 
vhich the leaves may be said to supjjly nourish- 
ment to the cutting till it can sustain itself. Tliis 
is very obvious in tlie case of striking from buds, 
vhich, without a leaf attached, s[)eedily rot and 
die. Leave^alone will even strike root, and from 
plants in some instances, and the same may be 
stated of certain flowers and fruits. 
Piping. 

This is a mode of propagation by cuttings, and 
is adopted witii plants having jointed tubular 
stems, as the dianlhus tribe; and several of the 
grasses, and the arundus may be propagated in 
this manner. When the shoot has nearly done 
growing, its extremity is to be separated, at a part 
of the stem where it is nearly indurated, or ripen- 
ed. This operation is eflecled by holding the root 
end between the finger and thumb of one hand, be- 
low a pair of leaves, and with the oliier pulling the 
top part above the \va\v of leaves, so as to separate 
it from the root part of the stem at the socket, 
formed by the axilke of tlie leaves, leaving the stem 
to remain with a tubular termination. Tliese pip- 
ings are inserted without any further preparation 
in finely sifted earth, to the deplli of the first joint 
or pipe. 

To insert cuttings. 

Cuttings, if inserted in a mere mass of earth, 
■will hardly throw out roots, while, if inserted at 
the sides of the pots, so as to touch the pot in ti)eir 
■whole length, they seldom fail to become rooted 
pl-ants. The art is to place them to touch the bot- 
tom of the pot, they are then to be plunged in a 
bar!: or hot-bed, and kept moist. 

To inanage cuttings. 

Xo cutting requires to be planted deep, though 
the large ought to be inserted deeper than such as 
are small. In the case of evergreens, tiie leaves 
sfiould be kept from touching the soil, otherwise 
\.hey will damp or rot oft'; and in the case of tubu- 
lar stalked plants, which are in general not very 
easily struck, owing to the -viater lodging in the 
tube, and rotting the cutting, botli ends may be ad- 
vantageously inserted in the soil, and, besides a 
greater certainty of success, two plants will be pro- 
duced. Too much liglU, air, water, heat, or cold, 
are alike injurious. To guard against these ex- 
tremes in tender sorts, the means, hitherto devised, 
is that of inclosing an atmosphere over the cuttings, 
by means of a hand or bell-glass, according to their 
delicacy. This preserves a uniform stillness and 
moistjare of atmosphere. Immersing the pot in 
earth has a tendency to preserve a steady uniform 
degree of moisture at the roots; and shading, or 
planting the cuttings, if in the open air in a shady 
situation, prevents the bad cflects of excess ot" 
light. The only method of regulating the heat is 
by double or single coverings of glass or mats, or 
both. A hand-glass placed over a bell-glass, will 
preserve, in a shady situation, a very constant de- 
gree of heat. 

\V'hat the degree of heat ought .to be, is decided 
by the degree of heat requisite for the mother 
])lant. Most soecies of the erica, dahlia, and gera- 
nium, strike better whea sui)i)lied with rather 
more Ueat than ij r«quisiii; tor the gro«th of these 



plants m green-houses. The myrtle tribe at>d 
caniellas require rather less; and in general a 
lesser portion of heat, and of every thing else pro- 
per for plants, in their rooted and growing state, is 
the safest. 

To S07V seetk with advantage. 

This is the first operation of rearing. Where 
seeds are deposited singly, as in rows of beans or 
large nuts, they are said to be planted; where 
dropt in numbers together, to be sown. Tha»ope- 
ration of sowing is either performed in drills, 
patches, or broad-cast. Drills are small excava* 
tions formed with the draw-hoe, generally in 
straight lines parallel to each other, and in depth 
and distance apnrt, varying according to the size of 
j the seeds. In these drills, the seeds are strewed 
from the liand of the operator, wlio, taking a small 
quantity in the palm of his hand and fingers, regu- 
•lates its emission by the thumb. Some seeds a«'e 
very thinly sown, as tiie ])ea and spinage; others 
thick, as the cress and small salading. 

Patches are .sniuU circular excavations made 
with the trowel; in these, seeds are either sown or 
planted, thicker or thinner, and covered more or 
less, according to their natures. This is the mode 
adopted in sowing in pots, and generally in flower 
borders. 

In broad-cast sowing, the operator scatters the 
seed over a considerable breadth of surface, pre- 
viously prepared by digging, or otherwise being 
minutely pulverized. "'I'he seed is taken up in 
portions in the hand, and dispersed by a horizon- 
tal movement of the arm, to the extent of a semi- 
circle, opening the hand at the same time, and 
scattering the seeds in the air, so as they may fall, 
as equally as possible, over the breadth taken in by 
the sower at once, and wliich is generally 6 feet; that 
being the diameter of the circle in which his hand 
moves throngli half the circumference. .In sowing 
broad-cast on beds, and narrow strips or borders, 
the seeds are dispersed between the thumb and 
fingers by horizontal movements of tlie hand in 
segments of smaller circles. 

Dry weather is essentially requisite for sowing, 
and more especially for tlie operation of covering 
in the seed, which in broad-cast sowing is done 
by treading or gently rolling the sui'face, and then 
raking it; and in drill-sowing, by treading in the 
larger seeds, as peas, and covering with the rake; 
smaller seeds, sown in drills, are covered with the 
same implement, without treading. 

To plant shrubs and trees. 

Planting, as applied to seeds, or seed-like roots, 
as potatoes, bulbs, kc. is most frequently perform- 
ed in drills, or in separate holes made with the 
dibbler; in these, the seed or bulb is dropt from 
the hand, and covered with or without treading, 
according to its nature. Sometimes planting is 
performed in patches, as in pots or borders, in 
wliich case, the trowel is the chief instrument used. 

Quincunx is a mode of planting in rows, by 
which the plants in the one row are always op- 
posed to the blanks in the other, so that when a 
plot of ground is planted in this way, the plants 
appear in rows in four directions 

Planting, as applied to plants already originated, 
consists generally in inserting them in the soil of 
the same depth, and in the same position as they 
were before removal, but with various exceptions. 
The principal object is to preserve the fibrous 
roots entire; to distribute them equally around the 
stem among the mould or finer soil, and to pre- 
serve the plant upright. The plant should not be 
planted deeper than it stood in the soil before re- 
moval, and commonly the same side should be kept 
tOAvards the sun. Planting should, as much as pos- 
sible, be accoropauied by abundant watering, ia 



HORTICULTURE. 



291 



9i*der to consolidate the soil about the roots; and 
where the soil is diy, or not a stiff clay, it may be 
performed in the beginning of wet weallier, in gar- 
dens; and in forest planting,' on dry soils, in all 
open weather during autumn, winter, and spring. 
To xuater gardens. 
Watering becomes requisite in gardens for va- 
rious purposes, as aliment to plants in a growing 
state, as support to newly transplanted plants, for 
keeping underinsects, and keeping clean the leaves 
of vegetables. One general rule must be ever kept 
in mind during the eraidoyment of water in a gar- 
den, tliat is, never to water the top or leaves of a 
plant wlien the sun shines. All watering should 
be carried on in tlie evening or early in the morn- 
ing, unless it be confined to watering the roots, in 
which case, transplanted plants, and others in a 
g^'owing state, may be watered at any time; and if 
they are sliaded fiom the sun, they may also be wa- 
tered over their tops. Watering over the tops is 
performed with the rose, or dispenser attached to 
tlte spout of the watering-pot, or bj' the syringe or 
engine. Watering the roots is best done with the 
rose: but in the case of watering ])ots in haste, and 
where the earth is hardened, it is done with tlie 
naked s[)out. In new laid turf, or lawns of a loose 
porous soil, and too mossy surface, tlie water bar- 
rel may be ailvantageously used. 

Man3'kitclieu crops are lost, or produced of very 
inferior quality, for want of watering. Lettuces 
and cabbages are often hard and stringy, turnips 
And radislies do not swell, onions decay, cauliHow- 
ers die off, and, in general, in diy soils. Copious 
waterings in the evenings, during the diy season, 
would produce that fulness of succulency, which 
are found in the vegetables produced in the low 
countries, and in the Marsli Gardens at Paris; and 
in this country at the beginning and latter end of 
the season. 

The watering the foliage of small trees, to pre- 
vent the increase of insects, and of strawberries, 
and fruit shi-ubs, to swell the fruit, is also of impor- 
tance. 

To -water the foliage of -wall treks. 

AVater is to be supplied to the garden from a re- 
servoir, situated on an eminence, a considerable 
height above the garden walls. Around the whole 
garden, four inciies below the surface of the ground, 
a groove, between two and three inches deep, has 
been formed in the walls, to receive a tlu-ee-quar- 
ter inch pipe for conducting the water. About 50 
feet distant from each other, are apertures througli 
the wall, 2^ feet high, and ten inches wide, in 
which a cock is placed, so that on turning tlie han- 
dle to either side of the wall, the water issues 
from that side. The nozzles of the cocks have 
screws on each side, to which is attached at plea- 
sure a leathern pipe, with a brass cock and direc- 
tor; roses, pierced with holes of different sizes, 
being fitted to the latter. By this contrivance, all 
the trees, both inside and outside the wall, can be 
most effectually watered and washed, in a very 
short space of time, and with very little trou- 
ble. One man may go over the whole in two 
hours. At the same time the borders, and even a 
considerable part of the quarters, can be watered 
witli the greatest ease, when required. 
To traiisplant. 

Transplanting consists in removing propagated 
plants, whether from seeds, cuttings, or grafts, ac- 
cording to their kinds and other circumstances, to 
a situation prepared to receive tliem. Transplant- 
ing, therefore, involves three things; first, the pre- 
paration of the soil, to which the plant is to he 
removed; secondly, the removal of the plant; 
ll»irdh', the insertion in the prepared soil. 

The preparation of Ihe soil implies, ia all cases. 



stirring, loosening, mixing, and comminution: and, 
in many cases, the addition of manure or compost, 
according to the nature of the soil, and plant to be 
inserted, and according as the same may be in open 
ground, or pots or hot-houses. 

The removal of the plant is generally effected 
by loosening the earth around it, and then drawing 
it out of the soil with the hand; in all cases avoid- 
ing as much as possible to break, or bruise, or 
otherwise injure the roots. In the case of small 
seedling plants, merely inserting tlie spade, and 
raising the portion of earth in which they grow will 
suffice; but in removing larger plants, 'it is neces- 
sary to dig a trench round tlie plant. 

In some cases, the plant may be lifted with a ball 
of earth, containing all its roots, ly means of the 
trowel; and in otliers, as in large slirubs or trees, 
it may be necessary to cut the roots at a certain 
distance from tlie plant, one year before removal, 
in order to furnish them with young fibres, to enable 
tiiem to support the ctiange. In pots less care is 
necessary, as the roots and ball of earth may be 
preserved entire. 

To accelerate plants in hot-houses. 
There are two leading modes of accelerating 
plants in these buildings; tlie first is by placing 
tliem there permanently, as in tlie case of the 
peach, vine, kc. planted in the ground; and the 
second is by having tlie plants in pots, and intro- 
ducing or withdrawing t'lem at pleasure. As far 
as respects trees, the longest crops, and with far 
less cai-e, are produced by the first method; but in 
respect to herbaceous plants and slirubs, whether 
culinary, as the strawbeny and kidney-bean, or 
ornamental, as the rose and the pink, the latter is 
by far the most convenient method. Where large 
pots are used, the peach, cherry, fig, &c. will pro- 
duce tolerable crops. Vines and other fruit trees, 
when abundantly supplied with water and manure 
in a liquid slate, require but a very small quantity 
of mould. 

To protect vegetables from injuries by tneans of 
straw ropes. 
This is effected by throwing the ropes in differ- 
ent directions over the trees, and sometimes de- 
positing their ends in pails of water. It has been 
tried successfully on wall-trees, and on potatoes and 
other herbaceous vegetables. As soon as the buds 
of the trees become turgid, place poles against the 
wall, in front of the trees, at from 4 to 6 feet asun- 
der, thrusting their lower ends into the earth, 
about a foot from the wall, and fastening them at 
the top with a strong nail, either to the wall or 
coping. Then procure a quantity of sti-aw or haj'- 
ropes, and begin at the top of one of the outer 
poles, making fast the end, and pass the rope 
from pole to pole, taking a round turn upon each, 
until the end is reached, when, after securing it 
well, begin about 18 inches below, and return in 
the same manner to the other end, and so on till 
within two feet of the ground. Straw ropes have 
also been found very useful in protecting other 
early crops from the effects of frost, as peas, 
potatoes, or kidney-beans, by fixing them along 
the rows with pins driven into the ground. 
The same by nets. 
The nets should be placed out at the distance of 
15 or 18 inches from the tree: being kept off by 
looped sticks, with their butts placed against the 
wall, and at a distance of about a yard from each 
otiier. In order to make them stand firmly, the 
net should be first stretched tightly on, and be fast- 
ened on all sides. If the nets were doubled or 
trebled, and put on in this way, they would be a 
more effectual screen, as the mesnes or openings 
would, in that case, be rendered very small. 
Woollen uets are tteaied the beat, «id are now in 



292 



UNI\'ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



getuTRl use in Scotlan<1. In screening with rets of 
any kind, tl\ey are ulways to be left on night and 
da"y> I'll al' danger be over. 

'J lie same by canvass screens. 
This is eftected eitlier by placing moveable can- 
vass cases over or around (letachec! trees; portable 
hand-cases over herb;iceous plants; tents or open 



sheds over the forests' productions; or fraipes or as if mixing mortar for the builder: he next lifts 



sheets agairst trees trained on walls. In all cases 
thev should be placed clear of the tree or plant, 
eith'er by extended, forked, or hooked slicks, or 
any other obvious resource. 

To raise and manage fruit trees. 

In the removal or transplantation of trees, gar- 
deners and nurserymen are genei'ally very careless 
and inattentive in taking them up, and care not how 
much the roots are broken or lessened in number, 
provided they have enough left to keep the ti"ee 
alive; the consequence is, tliat although the 
branches left on remain alive, there is so great a 
deficiency of sap, from the loss of roots, that the 
vessels cannot be filled the following spring. 

The roots are broken, or cut off at random, and 
generally diminished more than one-half, or they 
are doubled back and distorted; and, if there be 
enough left to keep the plant alive, it is thought 
quite" sufficient; and, by these means, the appear- 
ance of blossoms and fruit being prematurely pro- 
duced, those stinted and deformed plants are sold 
as half or full-trained trees for four times tlie price 
of others; and when sold, they are again taken up, 
and the roots treated and dimiuished in the same 
careless manner. 

AVhen the soil of a garden, wherein fruit-trees 
are to be planted, is not naturally conformable or 
congenial to the first principle, it must be made so. 

I'he top of a wall should Ije so formed as to 
throw off water; for otherwise it will generally be 
damped, which renders the trees unhealthy; and, 
when the substance against which the branches are 
fixed is dry, the temperature on all sides will be 
more equal. 

In preparing beds or borders, due attention must 
be paid both to the soil and subsoil, as each equally 
affects the heakli and fruitfulness of trees: and, 
principallj', as it retains or discharges water, — 
stagnant water being at all times particularly detri- 
mental to the fructification of trees. 

J'or peaches, nectarines, &c. a border of 10 or 
12 feet wide will generally prove sufficient. In 
cases M'iiere the soil has been too close and reten- 
tive, and the roots apt to grow deep, on the sub- 
stratum, lay a stratum of six inches of tlie common 
soil of the garden, and tlien form a stratum of 
about six inches for the roots to run and repose in, 
composed of two-third parts of fine drift sand 
(the scrapings of a public road, that has been made 
or repaired w ith flints), and one-third part of rich 
vegetable mould, well mixed together; and the 
belter \vay to perform this is, first to lay on about 
three inches of the composition, and on this place 
the roots of the plant, and over them spread the 
other tiuee inches; and cover the whole down with 
from nine to twelve inches of the common soil of 
the place. 

Where it is not found necessary to form an arti- 
ficial substratum, it will be sufficient to remove the 
soil to the depth of fifteen or eighteen inches, and 
there iorm tlie stratum of the roots, covering it 
down with a foot or nine inches of the common 
Boil. 

General mode of planting trees. 

The operation of inserting plants in the soil is 
performed in v.inous ways; the most general mode 
recommended by Marshal and Nicol is pitting; in 
which two persons are emploved, one to operate 
«a the soil with a spade, and the oUier to insert 



the plant, and hold it till the earth is put round it, 
and then press down tlie soil with the foot. 

The pit having been dug for several months, the 
surface will therefore be incrusted liy the raifls or 
probably covered ■witii weeds. Tlie man first 
strikes the spade downwards to the bottom 2 or 3 
times, in order to loosen the soil, then poaches it. 



up a spadeful of the earth, or, if necessary, 2 
spadesful, so as to make room for all the fibres, 
without their being anywise crowded together^ he 
then chops the rotten turf remaining in the bottom, 
and levels the whole. The boy now yilaces the 
plant perfectly upright, an inch deeper tlian when 
it stood in the nursery, and holds il firm in that 
position. The man trindles in the mould gently; 
the boy gently moves the plant, not from side to 
side, but upwards and downwards, until the fibres 
be covered. The man then fills in all the remain- 
ing mould; and immediately proceeds to chop and 
poach the next pit, leaving liie boy to set the plant 
upright, and to tread the mould about it. 'I'his, 
in stift", wet soil he does lightly; but in sandy or 
gravelly soil he continues to tread until the soil no 
longer retains the impression of liis foot. The 
man has by this time got the pit ready for the next 
plant, the boy is also ready wiili it in his hand, and 
in this manner the operation goes on. 

One general rule, and one of considerable im- 
portance in transplanting, is to set the plant or tree 
no deeper in the ground than it was originally- 
deep planting very often causes a decay, if not 
sudden destruction. 

Jllore expeditions inetltod. 
The following mode has been practised for many 
years on the Duke of Montrose's estate in Scot- 
land: — The operator, witii his spade, makes 3 cuts, 
12 or 15 inches long, crossing each other in the 
centre, at an angle of GO degrees, tlie wliole having 
the form of a star. He inserts his spade across 
one of the rays, a few inches from the centre, and 
on the side nest himself: then bending the handle 
towards himself, and almost to the ground, the 
earth opening in fissures from the centre in the di- 
rection of the cuts which had been made, he, at 
the same instant, inserts his plant at the point 
where the spade intersected the ray, pushing it 
forward to the centre, and assisting the roots in 
rambling through the fissures. He. then lets down 
the earth by removing his spade, having pressed it 
into a compact state with his heel; the operation is 
finished by adding a little earth, with llie grass 
I side down, completely covering the fissures, for 
I the purpose of retaining the moisture at tlie rootj 
and likewise as a lop-dressing, which greatly en- 
I courages the plant to put fresh roots between the 
1 swards. 

I Geiinan method of forcing trees. 

I With a sharp knife maky a cut in the bark of 
j tiie branch which is meant to be forced to bear, 
I and not far from the place where it is connected 
I with the stem, or, if it is a small branch or shoot, 
near where it is joined to the large bough — the 
cut is to go round the branch, or to encirclu it, and 
penetrate to the wood. A quarter of an inch from 
this cut, make a second like the first, round the 
bi-anch, so that by both encircling the branch, a 
ring is formed upon the branch, a quarter of an 
inch broad, between the two cuts. The bark be- 
tween these two cuts is taken clean aw ay, with a 
knife, dow'n to the wood, removing even the fine, 
inner bark, which immediately lies upon the wood, 
so that no connexion whatever remains between 
the two parts of the bark, but the bare and naked 
wood appears white and smooth; but this bark ring, 
to compel the tree to bear, must be made at the 
time when the buds are strongly swelling or break* 



HORTICULTURE, 



293 



jng out into blossom. In the same j-ear a callus 
13 formed at the edges of the ring, on both sides, 
and the connexion of the bark that had been inter- 
rupted is restored again, without any detriment to 
the tree, or the branch operated upon, in wliich the 
artificial wound soon again grows over. By tliis 
simple (though artificial) means of forcing every 
fruit-tree with certainty to bear, tlie most im- 
portant advantages will be obtained. 
To plant small fndts. 

Currants and gooseberries are often planted in 
lines, by the side of the walks or alleys of the 
gSrden; but it is a better method to plant them in 
«jaarters by themselves, and to make new planta- 
tions every sixth or seventh year. 

Raspberries produce the finest fruit when young; 
that is, about the third or fourth year after plant- 
ing, if properly managed. 

It is proper to plant some of all the above fruits 
on a north border, or other shaded situation, in 
order to prolong the season of them, if that be an 
object, besides planting them out in quarters, as 
Iiinted above. 

From four to six feet square, according to the 
quality of the soil, may be deemed a proper dis- 
tance at which to plant the above fruits; that is, in 
good land, six feet; in middling land, five; and in 
poor land, four feet. Some may also very properly 
be planted against' vacant places on any of the 
vails, pales, or espaliers. Antwerp raspberries, 
in particular, and some kinds of gooseberries, are 
highly improved in size and flavour, if trained to 
a soutli wail. 

The cranberry is grown to most advantage in 
bog-earth kept luoist. The margins of ponds are 
good situations far this plant. 

To choose plants. 

N"o better mode existsat present than having re- 
course for trees to the most reputable nurseries; 
and, with McPhail and Nieol, we would recom- 
mend, instead of maiden plants, " to make choice 
of those not very young, but such as are healthy, 
and have been transplanted several times, and been 
in a state of training for two or three years at 
least." A safe mode is, to plant partly maiden, 
and partly trained plants, by which means those 
•whicii come early into fruit, should tliey prove bad 
sorts, may be replaced by otliers. 

To manage orchards. 

The whole ground of an orchard should be dug 
in the autumn, and laid up in a rough state for the 
winter, giving it as much surface as possible in or- 
der that the weather may fully act upon and melio- 
rate the soil; thus following it as far as the case 
will admit. Observe to dig carefully near to the 
trees, and so as not to hurt tiieir roots and fibres. 
If the soil b3 shallow; and if these lie near to tlie 
surface, it would be advisable to dig with a fork, 
instead of the spade. 

Crop to witiiin two feet of the trees the first 
year; a yard the second; four feet the third, and so 
on, until finally relinquisiied; wiiich, of course, 
■would be against the eighth year, provided the 
trees were planted at 30 or 40 feet apart, with early 
bearing sorts between. By this time, if the kinds 
have been well chosen, the temporary trees will be 
iu full bearing, and will forthwitli defray every 
necessary expense. 

Let a small basin or hollow be made round the 
stem of each tree, a foot or 18 inches in diameter, 
and 2 or 3 inches deep, according to tiie extent of 
its roots. Fill this basin with littery dung, to the 
thickness of five or six inches, over which spi'inkle 
« little eartli, just enough to keep it from being 
blown about. This botli nourishes the young 
fibres, and keeps the ground about them moist in 
hot Aveatlier, if wetted freely once a week. 



•<7'o clothe the stems of standard-trees. 

This is done by. an envelope of moss, or short 
grass, or litter wound round with shreds of mat- 
ting, is of great use tlie first year after planting, to 
keep the bark moist, and thereby aid tiie ascent and 
circulation of the sap in the alburnum. This 
operation should be performed at or soon after 
planting, and the clotiiing may be left on till, by 
decaj-, it drops off of itsell; it is of singular service 
in very late planting; or, when from unforeseen 
circumstances, summer-planting becomes requi- 
site. 

To prime orchard trees. 

The object in pruning young trees, is to form a 
proper head. The sliools may be pruned in pro- 
portion to their lengths, cutting clean away such 
as cross one another, and fanning the tree out 
towards the extremities on all sides; thereby keep- 
ing it equally poised, and fit to resist the effects of 
high winds. When it is wished to tlu-ow a young 
tree into a bearing state, which should not be 
thought of, however, sooner than he third or 
fourth year after plantiug, the leading branches 
should be very little shortened, and tlie lower or 
side branches not at all, nor should the knife be 
used, unless to cut out such shoots as cross one 
another. 

The season for pruning orchards is generally- 
winter or early in spring. A M-eak tree ought to 
be pruned directly at the fall of the leaf. To 
prune in autumn strengthens a plant, and will bring 
the blossom buds more forward; to cut the wood 
late in spring tends to check a plant, and is one of 
the remedies for excessive luxuriance. 
To recover deformed trees. 

Where a tree is stintea, or the head ill shaped, 
from being originally badly pruned, or barren from 
having overborne itself, or from constitutional 
weakness, the most expeditious remedy is to head 
down the plant within three, four, or five eyes (or 
inches, if an old tree) of the top of the stem, ifi 
order to furnish it with a new head. The recovery 
of a languishing tree, if not too old, will be further 
promoted by taking it up at the same time, and 
pruning the roots: for as, on the one hand, the de- 
priving of too luxuriant a tree of part even of its 
sound, healthy roots, will moderate its vigour; so, 
on the other, to relieve a stinted or sickly tree of 
cankered or decayed roots, to prune the extremi- 
ties of sound roots, and especially to shorten the 
dangling tap-roots of a plant, aft'ected by a bad 
sub-soil, is, in connexion with heading down, or 
very short pruning, and the renovation of the soil, 
and draining, if necessary, of the sub-soil, the 
most availing remedy that can be tried. 

To cure diseases of orchard-trees. 

A tree often becomes stinted from an accumu- 
lation of moss, which afitcts the functions of the 
bark, and renders the tree unfruitful. This evil 
is to be removed by scraping the stem and branches 
of old trees with the scraper; and on young trees 
a hard brush will effect the purpose. Abero om- 
bie and Nicol recommend the finishing of Ibis 
operation by washing with soap-suds, or a medi- 
cated wash of some of the different sorts for de- 
slroving the eggs of insects. 

Wherever the bark is decayed or cracked, it 
ought to be removed. 

The other diseases to which orchard trees are 
subject are chiefly the canker, gum, mildew, and 
blight, which are rather to be prevented by such 
culture as will induce a healthy state, than to be 
remedied by topical applications. Too much lime 
may bring on the canker, and if so, the replacing 
a part of such soil with alluvial, or vegetable earth, 
would be of service. 

The gum may be constitutional, arising from of- 



294 



UNH^ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



fensive matter in the soli, or local, arising from 
external injury. In tlie former case, imprdVe tlie 
soil; in the latter, employ the knife. 

The mihlew may he eas.ly subdued at its first 
appearance, by scaitering tlour of sulphur upon the 
infected parts. 

For the blight and caterpillars, Forsyth recom- 
mends burning of rotton wood, weeds, potatoe- 
haulm, with straw, &c. on tlie windward side of 
the trees, wiien they are in blossom. He also re- 
commends wasliing the stems and branches of all 
orchard trees, with a mixture of '• fresh cow dung 
with wine and soap-suds," as a white washer would 
•wash the ceiling or walls of a room. The pro- 
mised advantages are, the destruction of insects, 
and fine bark, more especially when it is found ' 
necessary to take off all the outer bark. ! 

To presence apple, cherry, and plmn-trees from [ 
frost, as practised in Russia. ; 

The severity of the winters at St Petersburgh 
\& so great that few fruit-trees will survive it, even 
with careful matting; to prevent the loss which is 
thus usually sustained, the following mode of j 
training has been attendee* with complete success. | 
It consists in leading the branches of the trees on 1 
horizontal trellises only ten or twelve inches from i 
the ground. AVhen the winter sets in, there are ) 
heavy tails of snow, and as the frost increases, the 
snow generally augments, by which the trees are 
entirely buried, and receive no injury from the 
most intense frost. 

Another very great advantage of training trees '' 
in the above method consists in the growth of the ! 
•frood, it being of equal strength, and the fruit pro- 
duced being all alike, the blooms come out much , 
earlier, and the crop ripens sooner. The trees 
are always clean, and free from insects. ! 

The only clierry that does not succeed in that way 
is the black heart; this is attributed to the damps j 
which affect the early blossoms, but in a milder 
climate this injury would be obviated by placing 
the trellis higher from the ground. When the 
trallis decays under the apples, it is never renew- 
ed, as the trees keep always (from the strengtli of 
their branches) their horizontal position. 

There are other advantages of treating fruit- 
trees in this manner; they come sooner into bear- 
ing, and their fruit is not aft'ected by high winds. 
The apples are never gathered, but suflered to 
di'op off, for<he distance they fall is not sufficient 
to bruise them. 

To preserve and pack roots, &c. 

Roots, cuttings, grafts, and perennial plants 
in general, are preserved, till wanted, in earth or 
moss, moderately moist, and shaded from the sun. 
The same principle is followed in packing them 
to be sent to a distance. The roots, or root ends 
of the plants, or cuttings, are enveloped iij balls of 
ilay or loam, wrapped round with moist moss, 
iind air is admitted to the tops. In this way 
orange-trees are sent from Genoa to any part of 
Europe and North America in perfect preservation; i 
and cuttings of plants sent to any distance which j 
can be accomplished in eight months, or even j 
longer with some kinds. Scions of the apple, pear, | 
&c. if enveloped in clay, and wrapt up in moss or j 
straw, and then placed in a portable ice-house, so I 
as to prevent a greater heat than 3'2 deg. from i 
penetrating to them, would keep for a year, and 
might thus be sent from England to China. Tlie 
buds of fruit-trees may be preserved in a vegetat- 
ing state, and sent to a considerable distance, by 
reducing the leaf-stalks to a short length, and en- 
closing the shoot in a double fold of cabbage-leaf, 
bound close togetlier at each end, and ilien enclo- 
sing the package in a letter. It is of advantage to 
place the iwder surface of the cabbage-leaf inwards, 



bv which the enclosed branch is supplied with hu- 
midity, that being the perspirating surface of the 
leaf, tlie other surface being nearly or wholly im- 
pervious to moisture. * 

Skrecn for protecting ivall tree^. 

It consist* of two deal poles, on which is nailed 
thin canvass, previously dipjied in a tanner's bark 
pit, to jirevent its being mildewed when rolled up 
wet. At the top the ends of the polls fit into dou- 
ble iron loops, projecting a few inches from the 
wall, immediately under the coping; and at the 
bottom tliey are fixed, by a hole at the end of each 
pole, upon a forked iron coupling, which projects 
about 14 inches from the wall, thereby giving the 
skreen a sufficient inclination to clear the branches. 
When it is wished to uncover the trees, one of 
the poles is disengaged, and rolled back to the side 
of the other, where it is fastened as before. The 
most violent winds have no injurious effect upon 
shades of this kind; a wall is -very expeditiously 
covered and uncovered, and there is not any dan- 
ger of damaging tlie blossoms in using them; they 
occupy very little space when rolled up, are not 
liable to be out of order; and, although rather ex- 
pensive at first, seem to be very durable. From 
the facility with which the skreen is put up, it may 
be beneficially used in the seasons when fruit ri- 
pens, to secure a succession, by retarding the crop 
of any particular tree. 

The lower ends of the poles are advantageously 
retained in their place, by means of a small iron 
spring key, attached to the coupling by a short 
chain. 

To protect fndts from insects. 

Some species, as wasps, flies, 8cc. are prevented 
from attacking ripe fruits by gauze or nets, or by 
inclosing the fruit, as grapes, in bags. 

The blossoms of the hoya carnosa drives wasps 
from grapes, in hot-houses; and the fruit of the 
common yew-tree, the same in open air. 
To manage pinerg. 

The culture of Pine apples (saysNicol) is attend- 
ed with a heavier expense than that of any other 
fruit under glass: especially if they be grown in 
lofty stoves: but, independent of this, pine-apples 
may certainly be produced in as great perfection, 
if not greater, and with infinitely less trouble and 
risk, in fluid pits, if properly constructed, thaa in 
any other way. 

Tlie pinery should therefore be detached from 
the other forcing-houses, and consists of three pits 
in a range; one for crowns and suckers, one for suc- 
cession, and one for fruiting plants. The fruiting 
pit to be placed in the centre, and the other two, 
right and left, forming a range of 100 feet in length, 
whicli would give pine-apples enough for a l^rge 
family. 

The fruiting-pit to be 40 feet long, and 10 wide, 
over walls; and each of the others to be 30 feet 
long, and nine feet wide also over walls. The 
breast-wall of the whole to be on a line, and to be 
18 inches above ground. The back- wall of the 
centre one to be five feet, and of the others, to be 
4^ !eet higher than the front. The front and end 
flues to be se])arated from the bark bed bj' a three 
inch cavity, and the back flues to be raised above 
its level. 

The furnaces may either be placed in front, or 
at the back, according to conveniency; but the 
strength of the heat should be first exhausted in 
front, and should return in the back flues. The 
fruiting-pit would require two small furnaces, in 
order to diftlise the heat regularly, and keep up a 
proper temperature in winter; one to be placed at 
each end; and either to play, first in front, and re- 
turn in the back; but the flues to be above, and not 
alongside of one another. The under cue to ba 



HORTICULTURE. 



296 



considered merely as an auxiliary flue, as it would 
only be wanted occasionally. None of these flues 
need be more than five or six inches wide, and nine 
or ten deep. Nor ne^d the furnaces be so large, by 
a third or a fourth part, as those for large forcinj^ 
houses; because there sliould be proper oil-cloth 
covers for the whole, as guards against severe wea- 
ther, which would be a great saving of fuel. The 
depth of the pits should be regulated so as that the 
average depth of the bark-beds may be a yard be- 
low the level of the front flues, as to that level the 
bark will generally settle, although made as high 
as their surfaces, when new stirrred up. If leaves, 
or a mixture of leaves with dung, are to be used 
instead of bark, the pits will retjuire to be a foot, 
or half a yard deeper. 

General mode of cultivating tlie pine. 

The culture of this plant generally commences 
in a common hot-bed iramej heated by dung; at 
the end of six or nine months, it is removed to a 
larger framed hot-bed, or pit, generally called a 
succession bed; and after remaining here from 3 to 
12 months, it is removed to its final destination, 
the fruiting-bed. Here it shows its fruit, continues 
in a growing state during a period of from 6 to 
12 months, according to the variety grown, mode 
of culture, &;c. and finally ripens its fruit and dies, 
leaving the crown or terminal shoot of the fruit, 
and one or more suckers or side-shoots as succes- 
sors. The production of a single pine-apple, 
therefore, requires a course of exotic cudtui-e, vary- 
ing from 18 months to 3 years. 

Soil. 
■ The pine-apple plant will grow in any sort of 
rich earth taken from a quarter of the kitchen gar- 
den, or in fresh sandy loam taken from a common 
long pastured with sheep, kc. If the earth be not 
of a rich, sandy quality, of darkish coloiu", it should 
be mixed well with some perfectly rotten dung and 
sand, and if a little vegetable mould is put among 
it, it will do it good, and also a little soot. Though 
pine-plants will grow in earth of the strongest 
texture, yet they grow most freely in good sandy 
loam not of a binding quality. 
Heat. 

Pines do not require so strong a bottotn-heat as 
many keep them in; yet there is something in a 
mild tan-heat, so congenial to their natures, tliat 
they thrive much better in pots plunged in a bark 
bed, if properly managed, than when planted out 
on a bed of earth that is healed, and often scorched 
by under flues. The tan or bark-pits are therefore 
essential to the pinery. Bark-pits are filled with 
tan which has previously undergone a course of 
draining and sweating. The heat thus produced 
will last from 3 to 6 months, when it is sifted and 
again put in a state of fermentation, by replacing 
the deficiency occasioned by decay, and a separa- 
tion of the dust by sifting with new Um. In this 
way the bark-bed is obliged to be stirred, turned, 
refreshed, or even renewed, several times a year, 
so as to produce and retain at all times a bottom- 
lieat of from "5 to 85 degrees iu each of tlie three 
depailmeuts of pine culture. 

Propagation ofthepuie. 

The pine is generally propagated by crowns and 
suckers, though, in common with every other 
plant, it may be propagated by seed. 

'J'o separate crowns and slickers. 

When the fruit is served at table, the crown is to 
be detached by a gentle twist, and returned to the 
gardener, if it be wanted for a new plant. Fruit 
slalk suckers are taken oft* at the same period. 
Suckers at the base of the herb are commonly fit 
for separation when the fruit is mature; though, if 
the stool be vigorous, they may be left on for a 
month after the fruit is cut, the stool receiving 



plentiful waterings on their acconnf. Ttte fitness 
of a sucker to be removed, is indicated, at the lower 
part of the leaves, by a brownish tint; on the ap- 
l)earance of which, if the Ipwer leaf be brokea olf, 
the sucker is easily displanted by the thumb. 

If the old fruiting-plant offers only small bottom 
suckers, or fails to furnish any, good suckers may 
be thus brought out: — having waited till the fruit 
is cut, take tfie old plant in its pot out of the bark- 
bed: strip oft" the under leaves near the root, and 
with the knife cutaway the leaves to 6 inches from 
the bottom. Take out some of the stale mould 
from the pot, fill up witli fresh, and give a little 
water. Plunge the old plant into a bed with a gooj 
growing heat. Let the routii.e culture not be neg- 
lected, and the old plants will soon send out good 
suckers: allow these to grow till they are 4 inches 
long or more; and on the signs of fitfiess detach them. 

As soon as either crowns or suckers are detach- 
ed, twist oft' some of the leaves about the base; ilie 
vacancy thus made .at the bottom of the stem is to 
favour the emission of roots. Pare the stump 
smooth; then lay the intended plants on a shelf 
in a shaded part of the stove or ofanj' dry apartment. 
Let crowns and fruit oft-sets lie till the part that 
adhered to the fruit is perfectly healed; and root 
suckers in the same manner till the part which was 
united to the old slock is become dn,' and firm. 
They will be fit to plant in five or six days. 
Treatment of the plants. 

Keep the plants growing gently, and have the 
pots, in general, completely filled with the roots 
by the time at which it is intended to excite them 
into blossom. From the middle of February to 
the 1st of March is a good time to have the main 
crop in flower; as the prospective season is the 
finest. About a month before it is expected to see 
fruit, dress the plants by taking away 2 inches in 
depth from the top of the mould. Twist otf some 
of the lower leaves. Fill up with fresh compost, 
round the stem, to the remaining leaves. The 
bark-bed should be revived at the same time, so 
as to make it lively: but no new tan should be 
added, till the time for the fullest heat arrives. If 
it is desired to ripen eminently large fruit, destroy 
the suckers as they spring, by twisting out their 
hearts with an iron sliarp pointed instrument form- 
ed for the purpose. Apply this to the heart of the 
sucker; and, turning it round, bring the heart away: 
on the other hand, when the raulti plication of the 
stock is a principal object, tlie suckers must not be 
extirpated. A. yet further advantage may be given 
to the swelling of the fruit, by having a few of the 
lower leaves of the plant taken off", and by putting a 
rim of tin, or any thing else in the form of a hoop, 
round the top of the pot, suflicient to raise the 
mould 3 or 4 inches. The mould sliould be of the 
best quality, and constantly kept in a moderate 
moist slate: this may be done by having the surface 
kept covered with moistened moss. The roots of 
the pine plant, especially those produced from the 
part of the stem just under the leaves, will then 
make a surprising progress, and the fruit will be 
greatly benefited by this expedient. 
To cut ripe pines. 
Tlie indications of maturity' are a diff"usive fra- 
grance, accompanied by change iu the colour of 
the fruit; most sorts becoming yellow, or straw 
colour; others dark green, or yellowish tinged 
with green. Cut pine-apples before they are dead- 
ripe,* or the spirit of the flavour will be dissipated. 
Bring away with the fruit above 5 inches of stalk, 
and leave tlie crown adhering to the top. If pine- 
apples be not cut soon after they begin to colour, 
tliey fall greatly oft" iuflavom- and richness, and that 
sharp luscious taste, so much admii-ed, becomes 
insipid. 



296 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To destroy insects in pines. 

If the plants by proper culture be kept healthy 
and vigorous, insects will not annoy, but leave 
them. The coccus hesperides seems to delight in 
disease and decay, as flies do in carrion. The follow- 
ing recipe may safely be applied to pine-apples in 
any state, but certainly, best to crowns and suck- 
ers, at striking them in August: to others it may, 
at any rate, lie used in the March shifting, when 
they are sh.iken out of their pots: 

Take of soft soap, 1 pound; flowers of sulphur, 
1 pound; tobacco, half a pound; nux vomica, 1 oz.; 
soft water, 4 gallons; boil all these together till the 
liquor is reduced to 3 gallons, and set it aside to 
cool. In this liquor immerse the whole plant, after 
the roots and leaves are trimmed for potting. 
Plants in any other state, placed in the bark-bed, 
may safely be watered over head with the liquor 
reduced in strengtii by the addition of a third part 
of water. As the bug harbours most in the angles 
'of the leaves, there is the belter chance that the me- 
dicated water will be effectual, because it will there 
remain the longest, and there its sediment will set- 
tle. The above is a remedy for every species of 
the coccus; and for most insects, on account of its 
strength and glutinous nature. Its application will 
make the plants look dirty; therefore, as soon as the 
intended eft'ects may be supposed to have followed, 
■\ihatever remains of the liquor on the leaves should 
1)e washed off with clean water. It would be im- 
proper to pour a decoction charged with such of- 
fensive materials, over fruiting plants. 
Other methrjils. 

Turn the plants out oftiie pots, and clean the 
roots; then keep them immersed for 24 hours in 
"water in wiiich tobacco stalks have been infused: 
the bugs are then to be nibbed ort" with a sponge, 
and plants, after being washed in clean water and 
dipped, are to be repotted. 

In the " Caledonian Horticultural Transactions," 
a similar mode is described, only in the place of to- 
tacco-juice, flowers of sulphur are ^directed to be 
jiiixed with the water. AVilh a bit of bass-mat, 
fixed on a small slick, and dipt in \n»ter, displace 
as many of the insects as can be seei^. Then im- 
merse the plants in a tub of water, containing about 
1 lb. of JJowers of sulphur to each garden potful. 
Let them remain covered in the water 24 hours, 
then lay them with their tops downwards to dry, 
and re-pot them in the usual manner. 

The experience of Hay, one of the best practi- 
cal gardeners in Scotland, leads him to conclude, 
that even moderate moisture is destructive to these 
insects. For many years, he regularly watered 
his pine plants over head with the squirt, during 
the summer months: this was done only in the 
evening: it never injured the plants; and the bug 
never appeared upon them. 

To plant vines. 

Vines are commonly either trained against the 
back wall, or on a trellis under the glass roof. In 
the former case, the plants are always placed inside 
the house: but in the latter, there are two opinions 
among practical men, one in favour of planting 
them outside, and the other inside tlie parapet 
•wall. 

Abercrombie says, " I^et them be carefully 
turned out of the pots, reducing the balls a little, 
and singling out the malted roots. Then place 
them in the pits, just as deep in the earth as they 
-were before, carefully spreitding out the fibres, and 
filling in with fine sifted earth, or with vegetable 
mould. Settle all with a little water; and let them 
have plenty of free air every day, defending them 
from very severe frost or much wet; which is all 
the care they will require till they begin to push 
young shoots. 



Composts for vines. 

The following are the materials and proportions 
of a good compost, recommended by Abercrom- 
bie: — Of top-spit sandy loam, from an upland pas- 
lure, one-thir(l part; unexhausted brown loam from 
a garden, one-fourth part; scrapings of roads, free 
from clay, and repaired with gravel or slate, one- 
sixth part; vegetable mould, or old tan reduced to 
earth, or rotten stable-dung, one-eighth part; shell 
marl or mild lime, one-twelfth part. The borders 
to be from 3 to 5 feet in depth, and, where ])racti- 
cable, not less than 4 feet wide in surface within 
the house, communicating with a border outside 
the building, of not less than ten feet wide. 
'J'o choose tlic plants. 

Vines are to be had in the nurseries, propagated 
either from layers, cuttings, or eyes; and, provided 
the plants be well rooted, and the wood ripe, it is 
a matter of indifference from which class the choice 
is made. 

S/jee(]t/ mode of stoHn/r a nexu grape house. 

This mode is only to be adopted where a vinery 
previously exists in the garden, or where there is 
a friend's vinery in the neighbourhood. 

In tlie end of June or beginning of July, when 
the vines have made new shoots from 10 to 12 feet 
long, and about the time of the fruit setting, select 
any supernumerary shoots, and loosening them 
from the trellis, bend them down so as to make them 
form a double or flexure in a pot filled with earth, 
generally a mixture of loam and vegetable mould; 
taking care to make a portion of last year's M'ood, 
containing a joint, pass into the soil in the pot. 
The earth is kept in a wet stale: and, at the same 
time, a moist warm air is maintained in the house. 
In about ten days, roots are found to have proceed- 
ed plentifully from tlie joint of last year's wood, 
and these may be seen by merely stirring the sur- 
face of the earth; or sometimes they may be ob- 
served penetrating to its surface. The layer may 
now be safely detached, very frequently it contains 
one or two bunches of grapes, whicli continue lo 
grow and come to perfection. A layer, cut off" in 
the beginning of July, generally attains, by the 
end of October, the length of 15 or 20 feet. A 
new grape-house, theretbre, might in this way be 
as completely furiJished with plants in three 
months, as by the usual method, above described, 
in three jears. 

Another mode. 

A mode of more general utility than the forego- 
ing, is to select tlie plants in the nursery a year 
before warned, and to order them to be potted in- 
to very large pots, baskets, or tubs, filled with the 
richest earth, and plunged into a tan bed. They 
will thus make shoots, which, the first year after 
removal to their final destination, will, under or- 
dinary circumstances, produce fruit. 
To prime and train vines. 

The methods of pruning established vines ad- 
mit of much diversity, as the plants are in diff"er- 
ent situations. Without reckoning the cutting 
down of young or weak plants alternately, to the 
lowermost summer shoot, which is but a tempora- 
ry course, three diftcrent systems of pruning are 
adopted. 

The first is applicable only to vines out of doors; 
but it maybe transferred to plants in a vinery, 
without any capital alteration. In this method, 
one perpendicular leader is trained from the stem, 
at the side of which, to the right and left, the 
ramifications spring. Soon after the growing sea- 
son has commenced, such rising shoots, as are 
either in fruit or fit to be retained, or are eligibly 
placed for mother-bearers next season, are laid in, 
either horizontally, or with a slight diagonal rise, 
at something less than a foot distance, measuring 



HORTICULTURE. 



297 



from one bearing shoot to the next: the rising 
slioots, intended to form young wood, should be 
taken as near the origin of the branch as a good 
one offers, to allow ot cutting away, beyond the 
adopted lateral, a greater quantity of tlie branch, 
as it becomes old wood; the new-sprung laterals, 
not wanted for one of these two objects, are pinch- 
ed off. The treatment of those retained, during 
the rest of the summer, thus differs: — As the shoots 
in bearing extend in growth, they are kept stopped 
about two eyes beyond the fruit: — the coronate 
shoots, cultivated merely to enlarge the provision 
of wood, are divested of embryo bunches, if they 
show any; but are trained at full length as tliey ad- 
vance during the summer, until they reach the al- 
lotted bounds. In the winter-pruning, tliere will 
thus be a good choice of mother-bearers. That 
nearest the origin of the former is retained, and 
the others on the same branch are cut away: the 
rest of the branch is also taken oft", so tliat the old 
■wood may terminate with the adopted I'ateral: the 
adopted shoot is then shortened to two, three, fcfur, 
or more eves, according to its place on the vine, 
its own strength, or the strength of the vine. The 
lower shoots are pruned in the shortest, in order 
to keep tlie means of always supplying young wood 
at the bottom of the tree. 

Second method. 

The second method is to head the natural leader, 
so as to cause it to throw out two, three or more 
principal shoots; these are trained as leading 
branches;, and in the winter-pruning are not re- 
duced, unless to shape them to the limits of the 
house, or unless the plant appears too weak to sus- 
tain them at length. Laterals from these are cul- 
tivated about twelve inches apart, as mother-bear- 
ers; those in fruit are stopped in summer, and af- 
ter the fall of the leaf are cut into one or two eyes. 
Prom the appearance of the mother-bearers, thus 
shortened, tills is called spur-pruning. 
Third method. 

The third plan seems to flow from taking the 
second as a foundation, in having more than one 
aspiring leader; and from joining the superstruc- 
ture of the first system immediately to this, in re- 
serving well-placed shoots to come in as hearing 
■wood. Thus, supposing a stem, which has been 
headed, to send up four vigorous competing lead- 
ers,, two are suffered to bear fruit, and two are di- 
vested of such buds as break into clusters, and 
trained to the length of 10, 12, 15 feet, or more, 
for mother-bearers, which have borne a crop, are 
cut down to within two eyes of the stool or legs, 
according to the strength of the plant; while the 
reserved shoots lose no more of their tops than is 
necessary to adjust them to the trellis. 
To prune vines to advantage. 

In pruning vines, leave some new branches every 
year, and take away (if too many) some of the 
old, which will be of great advantage to the tree, 
and much increase the quantity of fruit. When 
you trim your vine, leave two knots, and cut them 
off the next time; for usually the two buds yield a 
bunch of grapes. Vines, thus pruned, have been 
known to bear abundantly, whereas others, that 
liave been cut close to please the eye, have been 
almost barren of fruit. 

To mature grapes by incision of the vine bark. 

It is not of much consequence in what part of 
the tree the incision is made; but in case the trunk 
is very large, the circles ought to be made in the 
smaller branches. All shoots, which come out 
from the root of the vine, or from the front of the 
trunk, situated below the incision, must be remov- 
ed as often as they appear, unless bearing wood is 
particularly wanted to fill up tl>e lower part of the 
viU, ia which case one or two shoots may be left. 
2 N 



Vines growing m forcing houses are equally im- 
proved in point of size and flower, as well as made 
to ripen earlier, by taking away circles of bark. 
The time for doing this is when the fruit is set, 
and the berries are about the size of small shot. 
The removed circles may here be made wider than 
on vines growing in the open air, as the bark is 
sooner renewed in forcing houses, owing to the 
warmth and moisture in "those places, llalf an 
inch will not be too great a width to take oft' in a 
circle from a vigorous growing vine; but I do not 
recommend the operation to be performed at all in 
weak trees. 

This practice may be extended to other fruits, 
so as to hasten their maturity, especially figs, in 
which there is a most abundant fiow of returning 
sap; and it demonstrates to us, why old trees are 
more disposed to bear fruit than yoiing ones. Mil- 
ler informs us, that vineyards in'ltaly are thought 
to impi-ove every year by age, till they are 50 years 
old. For as trees become old, the returning ves- 
sels do not convey the sap into the roots with tiie 
same facility they did when young. Tlius, by oc- 
casionally removing circles of bark, we only antici- 
pate the process of nature. In both cases', a stag- 
nation of the true sap is obtained in the fruiting 
branches, and the redundant nutriment then passes 
into the fruit. 

It often happens after the circle of bark has been 
removed, a small portion of the inner bark adheres 
to the alburnum. It is of the utmost importance 
to remove this, though ever so small, otherwise, 
in a very short space of time, the communication 
is again established with the roots, and little or no 
effect produced. Therefore in about ten days after 
the first operation has been ])erformed, look at the 
part from whence the bark was removed, and sepa- 
rate any small portion which may have escaped the 
knife the first time. 

To prevent the dropping off of grapes' 

Make a circular incision in the wood, cutting 
away a ring of bark, about the breadth of the 
l'2th of an inch. The wood acquires greater size 
about the incision, and the operation accelerates 
the maturity of the wood, and that of llie fruit 
likewise. The incision should not be made too 
deep, and further than the bark, or it will spoil 
both in the wood and the fruit. 

To retard the sap. 

At certain periods, preventing or retarding the 
mounting of the sap, tends to produce and ripen 
the fruit. An abundance of sap is found to increase 
the leaf buds and decrease the flower buds. A pro- 
cess to retard sap has long been employed in the 
gardens of Montreuil. The practice is to divari- 
cate the sap as near the root as may be, by cutting 
off the main stem, and training two lateral branch- 
es, from which the wall is to be filled. — Another 
process of interrupting the rising of the sap, by 
separating tiie bark, has been long in practice in 
vine-forcing houses; this is done when the grapes 
are full grown, and is found to assist the bark in 
diminishing the aqueous, and increasing the sac- 
charine juice. 

To destroy insects in vines. 

The red spider is the grand enemy to the vine; 
after every winter's pruning and removal of the 
outward rind on the old wood, anoint the branches, 
shoots and trellis, with the following composition, 
the object of which is the destruction of their eggs 
or larvse: — 

Soft soap, 2 lbs, flour of sulphur, 2 lbs. leaf of 
roll tobacco, 2 lbs. nux vomica, 4 oz. tiu-pentine, 
1 English gtll. 

Boil the above in 8 English gallons of soft river 
water, till it is reduced to six. 

Lay on this composilionj milk warm, with a 



298 



UXrV^RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



painter's brush: then with a sponge carefully anoint 
every branch, shoot, and bud; being sure to rub it 
■well into every joint, hole, and angle. If the 
house is much infected, the walls, flues, rafters, 
inc. are also to be painted over with the same 
liquor. Watering over the leaves and fi'uit at all 
times, except the ripening season, is the preventive 
recoinmentied, and wliich all gardeners approve. 
To proleci grapes from wasps. 
"Plant near the gra[)es some yew-trees, and the 
wasps will so far prefer the yew-tree berries, as 
•wholly to neglect the grapes. 

To take off superfluous suckers from shrubs. 

Many flowering siu'ubs put out strong suckers 
from the root, such as lilacs, syringa, and some of 
tlie kinds of roses, which take ^reat'y from the 
strength of the mother plant, and v/hich, if not 
vanted for the purpose of planting t le following 
season, should be twisted off, or otherwise de- 
stroyed. 

To renovQie old apple trees. 

Take fresli made lime from the kiln, slake it 
well with water, and well dress the tret with a 
brush, and the insects and moss will be completely 
destroyed, the outer rind fall off, and a new, 
smooth, clear, healthy one formed, and the tree 
assume a most healthy appearance and produce 
the finest fruit. 

Treatment of apple trees. 

The limbs of apple trees are recommended by 
6ome to be brushed all over in the midst of snm- 
mer: but it is difficult to brush the branches of 
ti-ees when the fruit is upon them. Instead of 
Drushing the trees in summer, as soon as the leaves 
nave fallen, every tree should be carefully and 
freely pruned, this will open a passage to the sun 
and air, and will contribute to health in the future 
season. In addition to this, says a correspondent 
of the INIonthly Magazine for 1820, 1 should re- 
commend brushing off the moss and cutting out 
the cankered parts at any season this is convenient, 
and 1 further recommend the tree to be anointed 
some feet from the ground with a composition of 
sulphur and goose oil, and, unless the orchard is 
ploughed, which is vei-y much the case in Shrop- 
shire and Herefordshire, the soil should be opened 
at the roots. 

To render nevi pippins prodxictive. 

To render it more hardy, the farina of the pip- 
pin should be introduced to the flower of the Sibe- 
rian crabb, whereby a mule is produced, which 
ripens in cold arid exposed situations, yet retails 
tlie rich flavour of the other parent. But these 
hybrid, or mule productions, in a few generations 
return to the character of the one or the other va- 
riety. A most excellent variety of this apple, call- 
ed the Downton pippin, has been obtained by 
introducing the farina of the golden to the female 
flower of the orange pippin, -lad the progeny is 
more hardy than either parent. 

To obtain early fruit by exiubiting the trees. 

]Mr Knight, having ti-ained the branches of an 
apple tree against a southern wall, in winter 
loosened them to their utmost, and in spring, when 
the flower-buds began to appear, the branches were 
again trained to the wall. The blossoms soon ex- 
panded, and produced fruit, which eax'ly attained 
perfect matui-ity; and, what is more, the seeds from 
their fruits aftonled plants, which, partaking of the 
quTtlity of the parent, ripened their fruit very con- 
siderably earlier than otiier trees raised at the same 
time from seeds of the same fruit, which had grown 
in the orchard. 

To hasten the ripening of ruall-fniit. 

Painting the wall with black paint, or laying a 
t»mposition of the same colour, produces not only 
more ia ciuantity, in the proportion of five to three, 



but the quality is also superior in size and flavour 
to that which grows against the walls of the natural 
colour. Hut the trees must be clear of insects, or 
fhey will thrive, from the same cause, more than 
the fruit. 

To preserve plants from frost. 

Before the plant has been exposed to the sun, or 
thawed, after a night's frost, sprinkle it well with 
spring-water, in which sal-ammoniac or common 
salt has been infused. 

To engraft the coffee tree. 

Plant in small hampers, during the rainy season, 
young plants raised by seed, when they are from 
12 to T 8 inches high. Place them in the shade, 
until they are quite recovered, then remove them 
in the hampers, respectively', to the foot of the 
coffee trees chosen for the mother plants, which 
ought to be of the most healthy and productive 
kind. 

These latter should be cut down to within 3 or 
4 inches of the ground, 1o make them throw out 
new wood near their roots. It is those shoots which 
are grafted, when thej' are about a foot or 15 in- 
ches long, upon the seedling plants in the hampers 
placed round the mother plants. The hampers 
should be in part buried in the ground, to preserve 
the earth within them moist. 

There are several ways of performing the opera- 
tion of grafting; but we shall give only the two 
following, which seem most likely to answer the 
purpose, without calling upon the cultivator to 
pursue too complex a process: — 

1st. Draw together the stem of the plant in the 
hamper, and one of the branches of the mother 
plant. Then m.ike a longitudinal incision on each 
of them, of the same length: bring the two in- 
cisions together, so that one wound covers the 
other; bind them firmly together, and finally cover 
them with a mixture of clayey eartli and cow dung. 
It would be useful to cut off "the top of the plant in 
the hamper, in order to force the sap into the 
branch of the mother plant. 

2d. Draw together the tree in the hamper and 
the branch of the mother plant, as before; and take 
ofl:" from 3 to 8 inches of the head of the former. 
Then make a triangular incision upon this cut, and 
a similar one on the branch of the mother plant, 
to unite the two wounds; make them fast together, 
and cover them with the same composition as be- 
fore; then place the branch upright by means of a 
prop. \Vhen the parts are firmly knit together, 
cut the branch away from the mother plant, and 
the engrafting is completed. 

Young trees, thus engrafted, after remaining one 
or two years in the nursery, should be removed to 
the plantation they are designed for. This method 
is highly useful to the fruit trees which do not pro- 
pagate, with all their best qualities, by means of 
seed. In the same manner, excellent varieties of 
spice trees may be raised from plants propagated 
by seed. 

To preserve fruit trees in blossom from frost. 

Surrotuid the trunk of the tree in blossom with 
a wisp of straw or hemp. The end of this sink 
by means of a stone tied to it, in a vessel of spring 
water at a little distance from the tree. One ves^ 
sel will conveniently serve two trees; or the cord 
may be lengthened so as to surround several before 
its end is plunged into the water. It is necessary 
that the vessel should be placed in an open situa- 
tion out of the reach of any shade, so that the frost 
may produce all its effects on the water by means 
of the cord communicating v/ith it. 

Chinese mode of propagating fruit trees. 

Strip a ring of bark, about an inch in width, 

from a bearing branch, surround the place with a 

I ball of fat earili, or loam, bound fast to the brauoh 



HORTICULTURE. 



299 



with a piece of matting: over this they suspend a 

Sot or horn, with watpr, having a small hole in the 
ottom just sufficient to let the water drop, in or- 
der to keep the earth constantly moist. The 
branch throws new roots into the earth just ahove 
the place where the ring of bark was stripped 
off. The operation is performed in the spring, 
and the branch is sawn off and put into the ground 
at the fall of the leaf. The following year it will 
bear fruit. 

This mode of propagating, not only fruit trees 
but plants of eveiy description, received particular 
attention from the editor while in China, and has 
since been practised by him in this country with 
never failing success. The mode he has adopted 
is this: — A common tin cup has a round hole 
punched in the bottom, a little larger than will 
admit the stem of the branch it is intended to re- 
ceive. A slit is then to be made from the edge 
down one side and along the bottom to the central 
aperture. The two sides can thus be separated so 
as to let in the branch without injury; it is then 
closed up, the cup filled with loom mixed with 
chopped moss, and another cup or gourd pierced 
•with a small hole suspended from a branch above. 
This is to be kept filled with water.- The time to 
do this is in the spring just before tlie sap rises. 
In the fall the limb, as before staled, is to be taken 
off below the cup and planted, with all the earth 
that adheres to the roots. 

To heal -wounds in frees. 

This method consists in making a varnish of 
common linseed oil, rendered verj' drying, by 
boiling it for the space of an hour, with an ounce 
of litharge to each pound of oil, mixed with cal- 
cined bones, pulverized and sifted, to the consis- 
tence of an almost liquid paste. With this paste 
llie wounds are to be covered, by means of a brush, 
after the bark and other substance have been pared, 
60 as to render the whole as smooth and even as 
possible. The varnisdi must be applied in dry 
Weather, in order that it may attach itself properly. 
Composition for healing -wounds in trees. 

Take of dry pounded chalk, 3 measures; and of 
common vegetable tar, 1 measure; mix them tho- 
roughly, and b'oil them, with a low heat, till the 
composition becomes of the consistency of bees- 
wax; it may be preserved for use in this state for 
any length of time. If chalk cannot conveniently 
be got, dry brick-dust may be substituted. After 
the broken or decayed limb has been sawed off, 
the whole of the saw cut must be very carefully 
pared away, and the rough edges of the bark, in 
particular, must be made quite smooth: the doing 
of this properly is of great consequence; then lay 
on the above composition, hot, about the thickness 
of half-a-crown, over the wounded place, and over 
the edges of the surrounding bark; it should be 
spread with a hot trowel. 

To propagate herbs by s'.ips and atttings. 

Many kinds of pot-herbs may, in July, be pro- 
pagated hy cuttings or slips, which may be planted 
out to nurse on a shady border for a few weeks, or 
till they have struck root, and may then he planted 
out where they are to remain. If made about the 
middle, or end of the month, they will be ready 
for transplanting before the end of August, and in 
that case will be well established before the winter. 
The kinds are maijoram, mint, sage, sorrel, tansy, 
tarragons, and thyme. 

'J b prevent i/ie growth of -weeds round young fruit 
trees. 

To diminish the growth of weeds round fruit 
trees, spread on the ground round the fresh trans- 
planted trees, as far as the roots extend, the refuse 
stalks of flax after the fibrous parts have been sepa- 
r.Ued> This gives them very surprising vigour, as i 



no weeds will grow under flax refuse, and the earth 
remains fresh and loose. Old trees treated in the 
sapie manner, when drooping in an orchard, will 
recover, and push cut vegerian shoots. In place 
of flax stalks, the leaves which fall from trees it» 
autumn may be substituted, but they must be co- 
vered with waste twigs, or any thing else that can 
prevent the wind from blowing them away. 
To avoid t/ie bad effects of iron nails, &c'. on fruit 
trees. 

It often happens that some of the limbs of fruit 
trees, trained against a wall, are blighted, and die? 
while others remain in a healthy and flourishing 
state. This has hitherto been erroneously attribu- 
ted to the effects of lightning; hut from closer ob- 
servation, and from several experiments, it has 
been found to arise from the corroding effects of 
the nails and cramps with which trees in this situa- 
tion are fastened. To avoid this inconvenience, 
therefore, it requires only to be careful in prevent- 
ing the iron from coming in contact with the bark 
of the trees. 

To destroy inoss on trees. 

Remove it with a hard scrubbing brush in Feb- 
ruary and March, and wash the trees with cow 
dung, urine, and soap-suds. 

To protect trees and shrubs from the attack of 
hares. 

Take three pints of melted tallow to one of tar, 
and mix them well together, over a gentle fire. \\\ 
November, take a small brush, and go over the 
rind or bark of the trees witii a mixture, in a milk 
warm state, as thin as it can be laid on with the 
brush. This coating will not hinder the juices or 
sap expanding, in the smallest degree. Its efficacy 
iias been proved, by applying the liquid to one tree 
and missing another, when the latter has been at- 
tacked, and the former left. During five years* 
experience, of the besmeared, the first two years, 
not one was injured afterwards. If all the bark 
were properly gone over with the mixture, they, 
probably, would not need any more for some years. 
To prevent the propagation of insects on aprpls 
trees. 

Letahard shoe brush be applied to every infected 
limb, as if it were to coach harness, to get oft' the 
dirt, after which, with the tin box and brush, give 
the limbs a dressing, leaving them exposed to the 
sun, to inhale tlie efficacy of the application. This 
should be repeated occasionally during the sum- 
mer, choosirtg always a diy time, and warm clear 
sunshine. 

To prevent the ravages of the gooseberry caterpil- 
lar. 

The only remedy is by placing something about 
the stem, or among the branches of the bush, the 
smell of which is obnoxioua to flies, and which 
they will not approach; the smell of coal-tar is 
said to keep off the caterpillars; the fact is, that 
it kept oft' the fly. The practice is to wrap a beam 
or twist of seed, strongly impregnated with this 
strong-scented bitumen, round the stem of the 
bush: and no caterpillar will touch a leaf. 

Other remedies are used, such as soap-suds 
thrown over the bushes, lime, chimney-soot, and a 
strong decoction of elder-leaves; but who can eat 
gooseberries and currants after they have been he- 
smeared with such filthy materials? keeping off the 
fly by the smell of something which is disagreea- 
ble to it, goes to the root of the evil at once, and 
there is nothing in the smell of coal-tar which can 
excite a prejudice in the most delicate stomach. 
Another method. 

A few small pits or holes, from 12 to 15 inches 
deep, being dug among the bushes, at convenient 
distances, all the surface mould immediately undOT 
and near to the bushes, wherein the gpreatcst <fian- 



300 



UM VERS AL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tity of shells is likely to be .Ippos.tefl, is taken off 
>.ith a common garden hoe, and buned m these 
noles or pits; after which the whole surface is 
carefully dug over, to a considerable depth. 
Wherever tliese operations are properly pertorm- 
ed, no ajjpreliension of loss from this kind ot cater- 
pillar need be entertained. 

To cure the disease in appiS trees. 

nnishoft'lhe white down, clear off the red stain 
underneath it, and anoint the places infectedwith 
a liquid mixture of train oil and Scotch snuff. 
Another method. 

Orchards arc occasionally much injured by an 
insect appearing like a white efflorescence; when 
bruised between the fingers it emits a blood red 
fluid. Mix a quantity of cow-dung with human 
urine, to the consistence of paint, and let the in- 
fected trees be anointed with it, about the begin- 
ning of March. 

To cure the canker in apple trees. 

The o«ly means of preventing the canker worm, 
•which destroys the young fruit, and endangers the 
life of the ti-ee, when discovered, and which in 
many instances has proved to be effectual, was en- 
circling the tree, about knee high, with a streak 
of tar, early in the spring, and occasionally adding 
a fresh coat. 

In other trees. 

Cut them off to the quick, and apply a piece of 
sound bark from any other tree, and bind it on 
with a flannel roller. Cut off the canker, and a 
new shoot will grow strong, but in a year or two 
you will find it cankered. 

To cure ulcers in elm trees. 

The remedy consists in boring ever}' tree at- 
tacked by the disease, at the ulcer itself; and in 
applying a tube to the hole occasioned by the 
borer, penetrating about 9 lines in depth. The 
sound trees, which are also bored, afford no liquor, 
whereas those that are ulcerated afford it in great 
abundance, increasing particularly in fine weather, 
and when the wound is exposed to the soulh. 
Stormy weather, and great winds, stop the affu- 
sion. In this manner the ulcers dry and heal in 
48 hours. 

To cleanse orchard trees by lime. 

The use of lime has been highly recommended in 
the dressing of old moss-eaten orchard trees. 
Some fresh made lime being slaked Aviih water, 
and some old worn out apple-trees vyell dressed 
■with it with a brush, the result was, that the in- 
sects and moss were destroyed, the outer rind fell 
off, and a new, smooth, clear, healthy one formed; 
the trees, although 20 years old, assuming a most 
healthy appearance. 

To cure blight in fruit trees. 

A smothering straw-fire should be made early in 
October, in calm weather, under each tree, and 
kept up during an hour or more. This done, 
scrape the moss and other impurities from the 
trunk, and from every obscure hole and corner; set 
your ladders to the branches, carefully cleaning 
tliem in the same way, taking from the remaining 
leaves every web, or nidus, of insects. If need be, 
wash the trunk, and all the larger wood, with a so- 
lution of lime and dung. Last of all, it is neces- 
sary to destroy the insects, or eggs, which may 
have dropped upon the ground, and may be useful 
to loosen the soil in the circumference. In the 
spring, or early blighting season, apply your lad- 
ders, make a careful survey of every degree, and 
act in consequence; repeat tlVis montti'ly, picking off 
all blights hy hand, and using the water engine 
where ablution may be necessary. To those who 
have fruit, or the market profit, thereof, every 
orchard or garden, little or great, will amply repay 
sucli trouble and expense. 



Another method. 

Trees newly transplanted, in general, escape itc 
attacks, when other trees, of the same kind ol 
fruit, grown in the same situation, have been nearl/ 
destroyed. Peach and nectarine trees should !>,• 
dug up, once in every five or six years, and replant 
ed with fresh mould. By this method, a large, 
quantity of fruit of a superior kind will be ob- 
tained. The covering of trees with mats, b} 
almost totally depriving them of light, has a ten 
dency to create blight, which often attends an ex 
cess of heat or cold. 

To preseiTe apple trees from blight. 

By washing the branches with quick lime it will 
preserve the trees from blight, and insure a crop; 
those which escaped washing suffered from the 
blight, whilst the others produced a good crop. 
To prevent the blight or mildexv from injuring 
orchards. 

Rub tar well into the bark of the apple trees 
about four or six inches wide round each tree, and 
at about one foot from the ground. This effectually 
prevents blight, and abundant crops are the conse- 
quence. 

To prevent mildexv onfridt trees. 

Take one quart of watky (a Russian spirit pre- 
pared from the distillation of rye, and resembling 
in every respect the whiskey of Scotland), two 
pounds of powdered sulphur; two ounces of cop- 
peras, and a small quantity of camphor. Dissolve 
first the camphor, reduced" to powder, gradually in 
the spirit, then dissolve also the copperas in it; 
then rub in gradually the powdered sulphur into 
the solution, when the whole will form a mixture 
of a thickish consistence. The fruit trees, in the 
spring of the year, immediately after being cleaned 
and tied up, are to have their trunks and all their 
branches completely covered with this mixture, 
by means of a large painter's brush. 

To prevent mildexv on peach trees. 

In the months, of January and February, if the 
trees are in a stunted or sickly state, take away all 
the old mould from the roots as carefully as possi- 
ble, and put in its place fresh rotten turf from an 
old pasture, without any dung; and the trees will 
not only recover their health, but produce a crop 
of fine swelled fruit. 

To prevent gumming in fruit trees. 

To prevent gumming, or the spontaneous exuda- 
tion of gum from the trunks of fruit trees, which 
injures, to a considerable extent, the growth aud 
strength of the tree. 

Take of horse dung any quantity, mix it well up 
with a quantity of clay and a little sand, so as to 
make a composition; then add a quantity of pitch 
tar (what is put upon cart wheels), and form a wet- 
tish composition of tlie whole. The fruit trees, in 
the spring of the year, after they are cleaned and 
tied up, are to have their trunks and stems com- 
pletely bedaubed or covered with this mixture. 
To cultivate the cucumber. 

To produce cucumbers at an early season, is aa 
object of emulation with every gardener; and there 
is scarcely any person, who has not his cucumber- 
bed in his garden. Cucumbers are forced in iiot- 
beds, pits, and hot-houses, and the heat of fire, 
steam, and dung, have been applied to their cul- 
ture; but dung is the only thing yet found out, 
by the heat of which the cucumber may be advan- 
tageously cultivated. 

Soil. 

Cucumbers, like every other plajit, will grow in 
any soil, though not with the same degree of vigour, 
provided they be supplied with a sufficiency of 
heat, light, water, and air. 

yor early forcing. 

Abercrombie recommends a mould or compost 



HORTICULTURE. 



301 



of the following materials: — One-third of rich top- 
spit earth, from an upland pasture, one-half of ve- 
getable mould, and one-sixth of well decomposed 
horse duns;, with a small (luantity of sand. 

McPhail used vegetable mould, made from a 
mixture of the leaves of elm, lime, beech, syca- 
more, horse and sweet chesnut, spruce and Scotch 
fir, walnut, laurel, oak, evergreen, oat, ash, &c. 
and among them withered grass, and weeds of 
various sorts. This vegetable mould is preferable 
to any otlier. 

Compost used in Kew garden. 

Of light loam, a'few months from the common, 
one-thiiil part; tbe best rotten dung, one-third part; 
leaf mould, and heath earth, equal parts, making 
together one-third part; tiie whole well mi:;;-J for 
use. 

To form the seed. 

If one light frame will be large enough forordi- 
nar)' purposes, choose a drj' sheltered part of the 
melon ground, and forma bed. When high winds 
are suffered to blow against a cucumber bed, they 
have a very powerful effect on it; tJ'.erefore, when 
a cucumber bed is about to be formed, tiie first ob- 
ject of consideration should he, to have it sheltered 
from tbe high winds and boisterous stormy wea- 
ther. Having put on tiie frame, and waited till 
the bed is fit for moulding, lay in 5 or 6 inches 
depth of tlie proper earth or compost. 
Sotuing. 

Abercromhie sows some seeds in the layer of the 
earth, whicii he spreads over the bed, putting them 
in half an inch dtep. He also sows some seeds in 
two, three, or more smaH pots, of the same kind 
of earth, which may be plunged a little into that of 
the bed. 

To raise plants from cuttings. 

Instead of raising cucumber plants from seed, 
they maybe raised from cuttings, and thus kept on 
from year to year, in the following manner: — take 
a shoot which is ready for stopping, cut it off below 
the joint, then cut smooth tlie lower end of the 
slioot or cutting, and stick it into 6ne leaf or other 
rich mould, about an inch deep, and give it plenty 
of heat, and shade it from the rays of the sun till 
it be fairly struck. IJy this meiliod, cucumber 
plants may readily be propagated. 

Treatment till removed to the fruiting bed. 

After sowing, continue the glasses on the frame; 
giving occasional vent above for tiie steam to eva- 
porate. The plants will be up in a few days, when 
it will be proper to admit air daily, but more 
guardedly, at the upper ends of tlie lights. In 
frosty weather, hang part of a mat over the aper- 
ture. Wlien the plants are a little advanced, with 
tlie seed leaves about half an inch broad, take them 
up, and prick some in small pots of light earth, 
previously warmed by the heat of the bed. Put 
three plants in each pot, and insert them a little 
slopingly, quite to tlie seed-leaves. Plunge the 
pots into the earth; and prick some plants also into 
the earth of the bed. Give a veiy little water just 
to the roots; the water should be previously warm- 
ed to the temperature of the bed. Draw on the 
glasses; but admit air daily, to promote the growth 
of the plants, as well as to give vent to the steam 
rising in the bed, by tilting the lights behind, from 
half an inch to an inch or two high, in proportion 
to the heat of the bed, and the temperature of the 
weather. Cover the glasses every night with gar- 
den mats, and remove them timely in the morn- 
ing. Give twice a week, once in two days, or 
dally, according to the season, a veiy light water- 
ing. Keep up a moderate lively heat in the bed, 
by requisite linings of liot dung to the sides. 
To guard the seeds from mice. 

Lay a pane of glass over the pot Oi* pan till they 



have come up, and afterwards, at night, cover with a 
pot of equal size, till the seed-leaves have expand- 
ed, and the husks have dropped; for, until then, 
the plants are liable to be destroyed. The cover, 
however, sliould always be removed by sun-rise, 
and be replaced in the evening.. It is at night 
these vermin generally commit their depredations. 
No air need be admitted till the heat begins to 
rise, and steam begins to appear; but after that, the 
light should be tilted a little every day, in whatever 
state tb.e Weather may be, until the plants break 
ground. Air must then be admitted with more 
care; and if frosty, or very chill, the end.of a mat 
should be hung over the opening, that the air may 
sift through it, and not immediately strike the 
plants. 

To trarisplant aicximbers. 

As soon as the seed-leaves of the plants are ful- 
ly expanded, transplant them singly into pots of 
the 48th size, and give a little water and air night 
and day. The temperature for seedlings is from 
65 to 75 degrees. With this heat and water, as 
the earth in the pots becomes dry, and a little air 
night and day, so as to keep the internal air in the 
frame sweet and fluctuating between the degrees 
of heat above-mentioned, the plant will be fit for 
finally transplanting out in one month, that is, by 
the l4th of November, into the fruiting frames. 
To form the fruiting bed. 

Ilegin to make preparations for the fruiting-bed, 
about tiiree weeks before the plants are ready to 
be planted out for good. The dung collected, af- 
ter being well worked, is made up into a bed of 
about 4 or 5 feet high, and the frames and lights 
set upon it. It is afterwards suffered to stand for 
a few days, to settle, and until its violent heat be 
somewhat abated, and when it is thought to be in 
a fit state for the plants to grow in, its surface is 
made level, and a hill of mould laid in just under 
the middle of each light, and when the mould gets 
warm the plants are ridged out in it. After this, 
if the bed lias become perfectly sweet, and there 
be heat enough in it, and the weather proves fine, 
tlie plants will grow finely. 

To plant out. 

When the temperature is ascertained to be right, 
bring the plants in their pots; turn over the hills 
of mould, forming them again properly, and thea 
proceed to planting. Turn those in pots clean 
out one at a time, with the ball of earth whole 
about the roots; and thus insert one patch of three 
plants which have grown together, with the ball 
of earth entire, into the middle of each hill, earth- 
ing them nearly around the stems. Also ^ny not 
in pots, having been pricked into the ear'i.i of the 
bed, if required for planting, may be taken up 
with a small ball of earth, and planted similarly. 
With water warmed to the air of the bed, give a 
very light watering about the roots, and shut 
down the glass-es till next morning. Shade the 
plants a little from the mid-day sun a few days, 
till they have taken root in the hills, and cover the 
glasses eveiy evening with large mats, -which 
should be taken off in the morning. 

Mc PhaiVs method of covering the frames. 

First, lay clean single mats on the lights in 
length and breadth, nearly to cover the sashes, 
taking care not to sufter any part of tlie mats to 
hang over the sashes on or above the linings, for 
that would be the means of drawing the steam into 
the frames in the night time. On these mats 
spread equally a covering of soft hay, and on the 
hay lay another covering of single mats, upon which 
are laid two, and sometimes three or four, rows 
of boards, to prevent the covering from being 
blown off by the winds. The mats laid on next 
to the glass are merely to keep the seeds and dust 

2 Ji 



302 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



■which may happen to be in the hay from getting 
into the frames among the plants. If the bed be 
high, in covering up, steps or short ladders must 
be used by those whose office it is to cover and un- 
cover; and great care must be taken not to break 
Oi" injure the glass. 

Setting the fniit. 

The cucumber bears male and female blossoms 
distinctly on the same plant. The latter only pro- 
duce the fruit, which appears first in miniature 
close under the case, even before the flower ex- 
pands. Tliere is never any in the males; but 
"tliese are placed in tlie vicinity of the females, and 
are absolutely necessarj-, by the dispersion of 
their farina, to impregnate the female blossom; 
the fruit of which will not, otherwise, swell to its 
full size, and the seeds will be abortive. The 
early plants under the glass, not having the full 
current of the natural air, nor the assistance ot 
bees and other winged insects to convey the f=jrina, 
the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to 
etfect the impregnation. 

At the time of fructification, watch the plants 
daily; and as soon as a female flower and some 
male blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set 
the fruit the same day. Take off a male blossom, 
detaching it with part of the foot-stalk; hold this 
between the finger and thumb; pull away the flow- 
er-leaf close to the stamens and central part, which 
apply close to the stigma of the female flower, 
twirling it a little about, to discharge thereon 
some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed 
thus, to set eveiy fruit, as the flowers of both sorts 
open, while of a lively full expansion; and gene- 
rally perform it in the early part of the day, using 
a fresh male, if possible, for each impregnation, as 
the males are usually more abundant than the fe- 
male blossoms. In consequence, the young fruit 
will soon be observed to swell freel)'. (Cucum- 
bers attain the proper size for gathering in about 
15 or 20 days from the time of setting; and often, 
in succession, for two or three months or more, in 
the same bed, by good culture. The above artificial 
operation will be found both necessary and eftectual 
in forcing the cucumber, between the decline 
of autumn and May, while the plants are mostly 
shut under glass. In plants, more fully exposed 
to the free air, the impregnation is eflected mostly 
or wholly by nature. 

To save t/ie seed. 

Select some best summer fruit, from good pro- 
ductive plants; which permit to continue in full 
growth till they become yellow. Then cut them 
Irom the vine, and place them upright on end, in 
the full sun, for two or three weeks; when they 
may be cut open, and the seed being washed out 
from the pulp, spread it to dry and harden; then 
put it up in papers or bags for future sowing. It 
vill remain good many years; and seed of three 
or four years' keeping is preferable for early frame 
crops. 

Insects and diseases. 

The thrips sometimes attacks early cucumbers, 
and is to be destroyed by fumigation. The red 
spider rarely makes its appearance; when it does, 
water must have been imiu-operly withheld. Some 
soils produce canker in the shoots, especially 
where they branch from the main stem. When 
tliis is the case, the only resource is to renew the 
soil and the plants. 

'J'o gro-M cucximbers under hand glasses. 

llie toUowing method is given by Mc Phail 
as that generally practised: — The seeds are sown 
abouti«lhe middle of April in a cucumber or melon 
bed, and when they come up they are potted out 
into small pots, two or three plants in each, and 
kej^l properly watered, aud stopped at tlie first or 



second jomt. About the middle of May, a warm 
situation, where the mould is very rich, is pitched 
on, and a trench dug out about 2 feet deep, 3 broad, 
and the length proportioned according to the num-> 
her of lights it is intended for. This breach is 
filled with good warm dung, and when the dung 
is come to its full heat, it is covered over with 8. 
10, or 12 inches deep of rich mould. The glasses 
are then set upon it about 3 feet distant from 
each other, and when the mould gets warm under 
them, the plants are turned out of the pots, with 
their balls whole, and plunged in the mould under 
the glasses, and a little water given them to settle 
tlie mould about their roots, the glasses set over 
tliem, and after they have made roots, and begin 
to grow, in fine days they are raised a little on one 
side to let the plants have free air; and, as the 
weather gets warmer, air is given more plenti- 
fully, to harden the plants, so that they may be 
able to bear the open air, and run from under 
the glasses. When the plants begin to fill the 
glasses, they are trained out horizontally, and the 
glasses set upon bricks to bear them from the 
plants. After this the plants require nothing more 
than to be supplied with water wlien the summer 
showers are not sufficient, and to stop them when 
they run too thin of branches, and tjiin them of 
leaves or branches when tliey are likely to be 
over crowded. 

In warm summers, and in warm situations, by 

this mode of management, the plants will bear 

plentifully for about two months, yu'ovided they be 

not attacked by insects or weakened by diseases. 

'I'o prevent the irregular growth of melons. 

Melons frequently, in certain situations, lose 
their circular form, and grow larger on one side 
than the other, and those mis-sliapen fruits are 
always bad. To remedy this, take a small forked 
stick, in proportion to the' size of the melon, and 
thrust it into the ground as nearly as possible to 
the tail of the fruit, taking the precaution to lay a 
little moss between the two prongs, and suspend 
the melon to the fork. In a few days the melon 
will resume its form, when the fork may be re- 
moved, and the operation is finished; tlie quality 
of the fruit remains undiminished. 
To {rrodnce mtisltrooms. 

If the water wherein mushrooms have been 
steeped or washed be poured upon an old bed, or 
if the broken parts of mushrooms be strewed 
thereon, there will speedily arise great numbers. 
To produce neiv potatoes througJwut tlie -wiiUer 
mouths. 

Prepare a proper quantity of red sand, rather of 
a loamy nature, and mix it up with a portion of 
lime in powder; viz. about one-third, about 14 days 
before using it. This soil is to be spread about 3 
inches thick at the bottom of any old wooden box, 
or on a very dry brick cellar floor — the cellar ought 
not to be exposed to tlie frost, nor yet too much 
confined from the air. Procure a measure or two 
of large potatoes of a prior year's growth; the sorts 
preferred are, the red apple potatoes, and the pink, 
eyes of purple potatoes. Set these on the soil 
whole, about 3 inches apart, with the crown or the 
principal eye to tiie soil in preference; but put no 
soil over them. Plant about the 20th of Septem- 
ber, which allows from 10 to 12 weeks for their 
growth; the old potatoes also throw out numerous 
sprouts or stalks, with many potatoes growing on 
them. The original potatoes for planting wholcj 
for sets in September, should be such as were of 
perfect growth in the October of tlie preceding 
year, and well preserved during the winter. The 
sprouts which shoot from them should be removed 
by the end of April, and these sprouts, which will 
be from C to 26 laches long, may be planted \uth 



HORTICULTURE. 



303 



all their fibres in a garden, for a first crop; about 
June 15, the potatoe sets may be sprit again, and 
the sprouts planted for a second crop — and in Sep- 
tember, the potatoe sets may be sprit a third time, 
and the sprouts of the last produce thrown away 
as useless — at the end of September, the original 
or seed potatoe is to be gently placed on the soils 
as before mentioned for a Christmas crop. At the 
end of 3 montlis at furthest, the old potatoes should 
be carefully twisted from the new ones, and the 
sprouts taken off the old potatoe, and the old po- 
tatoe is then to be placed on its bottom or side, on 
a fresh bed of soil prepared as befoi-e, and left to 
produce another crop from fresli eyes placed next 
the soil: as you are to observe, tliat the old pota- 
toe should not be set or placed twice on the same 
side, and you must take care at that time to remove 
the sprouts, to prevent the moisture from rotting 
the old potatoe. liy the above method may be 
had 4 crops of new potatoes from one potatoe, ex- 
clusive of those produced from the sprouts planted 
in the garden in April and June, from which may 
be obtained 2 crops of well grown potatoes in Sep- 
tember and October, weighing from 10 to 12 ounces 
eacli — the crops were very plentiful in proportion 
to the quantity planted. 

The potatoes are remarkably well flavoured, and 
may be kept longer without prejudice after gather- 
.ng, before dressed, than potatoes gi'own in the 
natural ground. 

To raise peas in autumn. 

The purple-flowered peas are found to answer 
best for a late crop in autumn, as tliey are not so 
liable to be mildewed as many of the other sorts, 
and will continue flowei'ing till the first crop stops 
them. Those peas may be sown in July, August, 
or so late as the first week in Sei)lember, if sown 
in a warm sheltered situation, and in a soil inclin- 
ing to sand. — Soak the peas in warm milk, and 
after you have drawn the drills, water them before 
you sow the peas: it is best to sow them towards 
the evening. U" the autumn should prove very dry, 
they will require frequent watering. When peas 
are sown before winter, or early in spring, they 
are very 'apt to be eaten by mice. To prevent this, 
soak the peas for a day or two in train oil before 
you sow them, which will encourage their vegeta- 
tion, and render them so obnoxious to the mice, that 
they will not eat them. 

To sow peas in circles instead of straisi'ht roios. 

It is a great error in those persons who sow the 
rows of tall-growing peas close together. It is 
much better, in those sorts which grow six or eight 
feet high, to have only one row, and then to leave 
a bed, ten or twelve feet wide, for onions, carrots, 
or any crops which do not grow tall. The advan- 
tages which will be derived are, that the peas will 
not be drawn up so much, be stronger, will flower 
much nearer the ground, and in wet weather can 
be more easily gathered without wetting you. But 
instead of sowing peas in straight rows, if you will 
form the ground into circles of three feet diameter,, 
with a space of two feet between each circle, in a 
row thirty feet long, you will have six circles of 
peas, each nine feet, in all fifty-four feet of peas, 
instead of thirty, on the same extent of ground. 
If you want more than one row of circles, leave a 
bed of ten or twelve feet before you begin another. 
For the very tall sorts, four feet circles will afford 
more room for the roots to grow in, and care must 
be taken, by applying some tender twigs, or other 
support, to prevent the circles from joining each 
other. This method is equally applicable for scar- 
let beans. 
To prevent mice from destroying early soton peas. 

The tops of furze, or whins, chopped and thrown 
Into the di-ills, and llius coreitd up, by goading 



them in their attempts to scratch, is ar effectual 
preventive. Sea sand, strewed pretty thick upon 
the surface, has the same effect. It gets in their 
ears and is troublesome. 

To cultivate common garden rhubarb. 

It is not enough to give it depth of good soil, 
but it must be watered in draught; and in winter 
must be well covered with straw or dung. If this 
be attended to, your rhubarb will be solid when 
taken out of the ground, and your kitchen, if a 
warm one, when cut into large pieces, will soou 
fit it for use. 

To force rhubarb. 

Cover plants of the rheum hybridum with com- 
mon garden-pots (number twelve,) having their 
holes stopped. These are covered with ferment- 
ing dung, and the plants come very fine and quick- 
ly, but are much broken by the sides and tops of 
tlie pots. After it is all well up, tlie dung and 
pots are entirely taken off, and large hand-glasses 
are substituted in their stead, thicklj'^ covered with 
mats every night, and in dull weather. This pro- 
cess greatly improves their flavour, and gives a 
regular supply till that in the open air is ready for 
use. 
! Another method. 

Inclose and cover the bed with open frame-work 
around, and on which place the dung, and with 
this treatment, the rhubarb will come up, very 
regularly, be of excellent quality, and want far less 
attention than is required by the former method; 
for the frame-work renders hand-glasses, or any 
other cover, unnecessary. Care should be taken 
to lay the dung in such a manner that the top may 
be partly or wholly taken off at any time for the 
purpose of gathering or examination, without dis- 
turbing the sides. 

Tills is a superior method of forcing the rheum 
hybridum; but still the forcing by pots will answer 
very well for any of the smaller growing species. 
Third method. 

To those who dislike the trouble of either frames 
or pots, it may be useful to know that rhubarb will 
come in much quicker, by being covered about six 
inches thick, with light litter; care should be taken 
in putting it on, and removing it, that no injury be 
done to tlie plants. 

To dry rhubarb. 

The best method of drying rhubarb, is to strip 
it oft" its epidermis. This is a long operation, but - 
both time and expense are spared in the end by the 
promptness and regularity of the drying. Miny 
cultivators of rhubarb, on a large scale, have re- 
peated the experiment, and have met, with the 
most decisive results. 

To cure rhubarb. 

The method of curing the true rhubarb is as 
follows: — Take the roots up when the stalks ar« 
withering or dying away, clean them from the 
earth with a dry brush, cut them in small pieces 
of about 4 or 5 inches in breadth, and about 2 in 
depth, taking stway all the bark, and make a hole 
in the middle, and string them on pack thread, 
keeping every piece ajjart, and every morning, if 
the weather is fine, place them in the open part 
of the garden on stages, erected by placing small 
posts, about 6 feet high, in the ground, and 6 feet 
asunder, into which fix horizontal pegs, about a 
foot apart, beginning at the top; and the rhubarb 
being sprung crosswise on small poles, place them 
on these pegs; so that if it should rain, you could 
easily remove each pole with the suspended pieces 
into any covered place. Never suffer them to be 
out at night, as the damp moulds them. 
To cidtivate onions. 
Never use the hoe to the plant except it be tor 
. cleaj'ing Uie ground from weeds. Wlien the ouions 



304 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



have shot out their lenvcs to their full size; and 
v']ien they begin to get a little brown at the top, 
clear away all tiie soil from the bulb down to the 
rin^, from whence proceed the fibres of the roots, 
anil thus form a basin round eacii bulb, whicli 
catches tlie rain and serves as a receptacle for the 
water, from the watering-pot. ' The old bulbs will 
then immediately begin to form new ones, and if 
tiiey are kept properly moist, and the soil is good, 
the cluster will be very large and numerous. This 
is not the only advantage of this mode of treatment, 
as the bulbs tluis grown al)ove ground are much 
soutMier tlian those formed beneath the surface, and 
will keep quite as well as any other sort: which was 
not the case until this plan was atiopted. 

15y a particular mode of culture, tlie onion in 
this country may be grown nearly in form and size 
like those from Spain and Portugal. The seeds 
of the Spanish or Portugal onion should for liiis 
purpose l)e sown at the usual period in the spring, 
very thickly, and in poor soil, under the shade of 
appJe or pear trees. In autumn the bulbs will not 
be much larger than peas, when they should be 
taken, from the soil and preserved until tlie suc- 
ceeding spring, and then planted at some distance 
from each other, in a good soil, and exposed toihe 
sun. The bulbs will often exceed 5 inches in 
diameter, and will keep throughout the winter 
much better than those cultivated in the usual 
manner. 

The Portuguese mode to aiUlvate ovions. 

They must first be raised on a nursery bed, in 
the warmest and most sheltered part of the garden, 
as early in the month of February as the season 
will permit; as soon as the plants are strong enough 
to bear remo^ al, that is to say, when they are about 
the thickness of a goose-quill, let some puddle be 
pre])ared wiili garden mould and water, witii a 
small proportion of soot, the whole to be of the 
consistence of thick cream; as the plants are drawn 
from the seed-bed, let their roots be instantly im- 
mersed in the puddle, and there remain till they 
are transplanted, where they are permanent!)' to 
continue. The plants should be set out about six 
inches apart, and the ground kent perfectly clear 
of weeds, and regularly refreslu I with water in 
hot and dry weather. On this latter circumstance 
will very much depend their size and mildness; to 
this is owing the superiority of onions grown in 
Portugal, which are all cultivated in the way here 
recommended. By keeping the roots in puddle, 
if i? were only for a few minutes, during the in- 
terval between the taking up and transplanting, 
they are prevented from receiving the slightest 
check from the access of the atmospheric air, and 
will require no immediate watering when first 
transplanted. 

To obtain a good crop of onions. 

In ord,er to obtain a good crop of onions, it is 
proper to sow at difterent seasons, viz. in light 
soils, in August, January, or e.arly in February; 
and, in heavy wet soils, in March, or early in 
April. Onions, however, should not be sown in 
January, unless the ground be in a dry stale, which 
is not often the case .at so early a period of the sea- 
son: but if so, advantage should be taken of it. 
To cultivate asparagus. 

That paut of the garden which is longest exposed 
to the sun, and least shaded by shrubs and trees, is 
to be chosen for the situation of the asparagus 
quarter. A pit is tlien to be dug 5 feet in depth, 
and the mould which is taken from it must be sift- 
ed, taking care to reject all stones, even as low in 
size as a filbert nut. The best parts of the mould 
must then be laid aside for making up the beds. 

The materials of the bed are then to be laid in 
the following- proportion and order:— 



Six inches of common dung-hill manure,— 8 
inches of turf, — Q, inches of dung as before,— 5 
inches of sifted earth, — S inches of turf, — 6 inches 
of very rotten dung, — 8 inches of the best earth. 

The best layer of earth must then be well mi.xed 
with the last of (King. 

The quarter must now be divided into beds five 
feet wide, by paths constructed of turf, two feet in 
breadth, and one in thickness. The asparagus 
must be planted about the end of March, 18 inches 
asunder. In planting them, the bud, or top of tlie 
shoot, is to be jilaced at the depth of an inch and a 
half in the ground, while tiie roots must be spread 
out as wide as possible, in the form of an umbrella. 
A small bit of stick must be placed as a mark at 
each plant, as it is laid in the ground. As soon as 
the earth is settled and diy, a spadeful of fine sand 
is to be thrown on each plant, in the form of a- 
mole-hill. If the asparagus plants siiould have be- 
gun to shoot before their transplantation, the 
young shoots should be cut oft", and the planting 
will, with these precautions, be equally successful; 
though it sliould be performed in this country even 
as late as July. Should any of the plants originally 
inserted have died, tliey also may be replaced at 
this season. The plants ought to be two years old 
when they are transplanted; they will even take at 
three, but at four they are apt to fail. 

In three years the largest plants will be fit to cut 
for use. If tlie buds be sufficiently large to furnish 
a supply in this manner, the asparagus shoots should 
be cut as fast as they appear; otherwise they must be 
left till the quantity required has pushed foith; in 
which case the variety in colour and size prevents 
them from having so agreeable an appearance. Ao 
iron knife is used for this purpose. 

The asparagus bed now described M'ill generally 
last thuty years; but if they be planted in such 
abundance as to require cutting only once in twen- 
ty-seven years, half the bed being always in a state 
of reservation, it will last a century or more. The 
turf used in making the beds should be very free 
from stones. 

Another method. 

Make the bed quite flat, 5 feet wide, of good 
soil, without any dung, long or short: sow it with 
onions. Tiien sow two asparagus seeds (lest one 
should fail) about 1 inch deep, near each other: 12 
inches each way sow two more; and if the spring 
is cold and diy let the weeds grow until rain 
comes. In October, cover the bed with manure, 
or rotten hot-bed. The next spring remove the 
weakest of the two plants, and keep the bed free 
from weeds. To raise seed, select the thickest 
stems: after blossciming sufficient, t.ake oft'thetops, 
to make the seed strong. This is also the best way 
to raise double ten-weeks and Brompton stocks. 
Six pounds are sufficient for any strong plant: set- 
ting them to flower near double ones is of no use. 
The excess in petal arises from cultivation, and 
transplanting into rich soil: wild flowers are sel- 
dom double. Keep all small seeds in the pod 
until you sow them. 

'J'o force asparagus. 

The pits in which succession pines are kept in 
the summer have at bottom a layer of leaves about 
18 inches deep, covered with the same thickness 
of tan, which becomes quite cold when the pines 
are removed. In one of the pits should be spread 
over the entire surface of the old tan a quantity of 
asparagus roots, and cover it with six inches more 
of tan, and apply linings of hot dUng, and succes- 
sively renew it round the sides, keeping up thereby 
a good heat. The above mode was practised in the 
middle of December, by Mr William Ross, and in 
five weeks the crop was fit for use. As soon as the 
shoots raade their appearance, and during the day- 



HORTICULTURE. 



SOi 



time, he took off the lights, infrodiicing as much 
air as possible, which gave tliem a good natural 
colour, and the size M'as nearly as large as iflliey 
Jiad been produced in the open ground, at the usual 
season. 

To insure perfect success, it is expedient to 
have good roots to place in the bed; the usual plan 
of taking them froip thcexliausted old beds of the 
garden, is bad. If they are past their best, and 
unfit to remain in the garden, iliey cannot he in a 
good state for forcing. Young roots, four years 
old from the seed, are much preferable: they are 
costly if they are to be purchased every year; 
but where there is sufficient space, a regular sow- 
ing for this particular purpose should be made an- 
nually, and thus a succession of slock secured. 
To render asparagus more productive. 

In the formation of beds the male plants only 
should be selected, wliich may easily be done by 
not planting from the seed-bed until they have 
flowered. When the plants are one year old, 
transplant them into the other beds, at six inches 
«listance; let them remain there until theytlower, 
vhich will be in most of them in the second year; 
put a small stick to each male plant to mark them, 
and pull up the females, unless it is wished to 
make a small plantation with one of them, to prove 
the trulli of the experiment. 

Towards the end of July, especiallj' if it be rainy 
■weather, cut down the stalks of the asparagus, fork 
up the beds, add rake them smooth. If it be diy, 
Water them with the draining of a dung-hill; but, 
instead of leaving them round, leave tiiem rather 
flat or hollow in the middle, the better to retain the 
■water or rain. In about twelve or fourteen days 
the asparagus will begin to appear, and if it be dry 
■weather, continue watering once or twice a week. 
By this method asparagus may be cut about tiie end 
of September; at which time the hot-beds will suc- 
ceed this, so tliat by making five or six hot-beds 
during tlie winter, a regular succession of it may 
be had ever)' month of the year. 

'J'o raise capsicum, and make Cayenne pepper. 

Capsicum pepper is produced from the capsi- 
cum, which is raised for ornament, with many 
other annual flowers, or for pickling the green 
pods, and is the seed and pod wheu ripe. In 
March or April procure some pods of any of the 
sorts of capsicums, as there are many varieties of 
them of different shapes; take out tlie seeds, and 
now them on a bed not too thick. When they are 
nbout four inches high, prick them out on the hot- 
bed at sis inches asunder; or put each into a small 
pot, or three into a large one, and keep tliem still un- 
der the glasses. In June, when the weather is settled, 
plant tliem all in a warm situation, in a rich earth, 
■where they are to remain, some on the borders of 
the flower garden, and some into larger pots, which 
you can shelter in bad weather. 

To cultivate tlie Jllplne straxcberry. 

The process consists of sowing tiie seed on a 
moderate hot-bed in the beginning ofApriljand 
removing the plants, as soon as they have acijuired 
suflicienl strength, to beds in the open ground. 
They will begin to blossom after midsummer, and 
afford an abundant l-ate autumnal crop. Tiiis 
strawberry ought always to be treated as our an- 
nual plants. 

To cultivate sea kail. 

The seed is to be sown in the month of April in 
drills, on a good light dry soil; as the piants rise, 
thin tiieni, nnd keep them clean. The fust winter, 
earth them np to protect them from the frost; the 
following summer thin them to about eighteen 
inches distance, leaving the best plants. At Christ- 
mas, take away the decnyed leaves, and cover up 
each plant with a large deep pan or llower-pot, upon 
3 () 



which lay a quantify of the leaves of trees, to keep 
off the frost, and create heat to the plants. Stable 
litter is sometimes used instead of leaves, but it is 
ajjtto give the plants a rank taste. In the follow- 
ing month of April, the pots will be quite full of 
fine tender blanched shoots, which may be cut over 
by the ground (but not too near) and the stumps 
covered up again for a second crop: this may be 
repeated with the same plants two or three times 
during the spring, before the plants are left for 
summer's growth. With this treatment the sea 
kail, if sufficiently boiled in two waters, w ill be 
found equal to any asparagus or brocoli, and may 
be eaten with butter, or butter and vinegar, and 
pepper, as may suit the taste. The plant being a 
perennial one, will last for any length of time with 
proper culture. 
To cultivate radishes to have them at all seasons. 

Take seeds of the common radish, and lav them 
in rain water to steep fnr '24- hours; then put them 
quite wet into a small linen bag, well tied at the 
mouth w ith a packthread. If you have steeped a 
large quantity of seeds, you may divide them into 
several bags. Then expose the bags in a place 
where they will receive the greatest heat of the sun, 
for about 2-i hours, at the end of which time the 
seed will begin to grow, and you may then sow it 
in the usual manner, in eartli w-ell exposed to the 
heat of the sun. Prepare two small tubs to cover 
each other exactly. These may be easily provided, 
by sawing a small cask through the tiiiddle, and 
they will serve in winter; in summer one will be 
sufficient for each kind of earth that has been 
sown. As soon as you have sown your seeds j-ou 
must cover them with your tub, and at the end of 
three days, you will find radishes of the size and t 
thickness of young lettuces, having at their extre- 
mities two small round leaves, rising fi-om the 
earth, of a reddish colour. These radishes, cut or 
pulled up, will be excellent, if mixed with a salad, 
and they have a much more delicate taste tlian the 
common radishes which are eaten with salt. 

By taking the following precautions you may 
have them in the winter, and even during the hard- 
est frosts: after having steeped the seeds in warm 
water, and exposed them to the sun as already di- 
rected, or in a place sufficiently hot to make them 
shoot forth, warm the two tubs; fill one of them 
with earth well dunged: sow your seeds, thus [jre- 
pared, in one of them, and cover it with the other 
tub; you must then be careful to sprinkle it with 
warm water as often as maj' be necessary. Then 
carry the two tubs closely joined, taking care they 
cover each other, into a warm vault or cellar, and 
at tlie end of 15 days you may gather a fine salad. 
To increase potage herbs. 

The manzei worzel would, if permitted to run 
up, grow to a great height, and afford a good 
plucking of potage vegetables twice a week in win- 
ter (only). It must be planted late, but may con- 
tinue in the ground two or three years, wiien its 
roots will be wasted, the herbage become dwarfish, 
and it must be renewed by seed. 
3'o guard cabbages from the depredations of cater- • 
pillars. 

Sow ■with hemp all the borders of the ground 
wherein the cabbage is planted; and, although the 
neighbourhood be infested with caternillars. the 
si)ace inclosed by the hemp will be perlectly free, 
and not one of these vermin ■will approach it. 
7 banish the red spider. 

Cut off the infected leaf. The leaf once attacked 
soon decays and falls off; but in the jiriean time the 
animals remove to anoth-er, and the leaf, from the 
moment of attack, seems to cease to perform its 
office; but persevere in tlie amputation, and the 
plants become healthy, 

2^2 



305 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To stop the ravages of caterpillars from shrubs, 
plants, and "vegetables. 

Take a chafing dish with" lighted charcoal, and 
place it under the branches of the tree, or bush, 
whereon are the caterpillars: then throw a little 
brimstone on the coals. The vapour oi" the sul- 
phur, which is mortal to these insects, and the suf- 
focating fixed air arising from tiie charcoal, will 
not only destroy all that are on the tree, but will 
effectually prevent the shrubs from being, at that 
season, infested with them. A pound of sulphur 
■will clear as many trees as grow on several acres. 

Another method of driving these insects off fruit 
trees, is to boil together a quantity of rue, worm- 
wood, and common tobacco (of each equal parts), 
in common water. The liquor should be very 
strong. Sprinkle this on the leaves and young 
branches ever}' morning and evening during the 
time the fruit is ripening. 

To destroy insects on plants. 

Tie up some flowers of sulphur in a piece of 
muslin or fine linen, and with this the leaves of 
young shoots of plants sliould be dusted, or it may 
be thrown on them by means of a common swans- 
down puff, or even by a dredging-box. 

Fresh assurances have repeatedly been received 
of the powerful influence of sulphur against the 
vhole tribe of insects and worms which infest and 
Drey on vegetables. Sulphur has also been found 
to promote the health of plants, on which it was 
sprinkled; and that peach trees in particular were 
remarkably improved by it, and seemed to absorb 
it. It has been likewise observed, that the verdure, 
and other healthful appearances, were perceptibly 
increased; for the quantity of new shoots and 
leaves formed subsequently to the operation, and 
having no sulphur on their surfaces, served as a kind 
of comparative index, and pointed out distinctly 
the accumulation of health. 

To cultivate the sun-Jloiver. 

The sun-flower, kidney-beans, and potatoes, 
mixed together, agree admirably; the neighbour- 
hood of the sun-flower proving advantageous to tiie 
potatoe. It is a well authenticated fact, that, with 
careful attention, the sun-flower will make excel- 
lent oil. 

The marc, or refuse of the sun-flower, after the 
oil is expressed, may be prepared as a light viand 
for hogs and goats, pigeons and poultry, which will 
banquet on it to satiety. Querj', would it not make 
goo<l oil cakes for fattening pigs? if brought into 
notice, it might become an object of magnitude. 
Forty-eight pounds of sun-flower will produce 
twelve pounds of oil. In fine, I esteem it as 
•worthy of consideration: for 1st. In the scale of 
excellence, it will render the use of grain for feed- 
ing hogs, poultry, pigeons, &c. completely unne- 
cessary. 2. As it resembles olive oil, would it not 
be found, on examination, competent to supply its 
place? whatever may be the points of difference, it 
certainly may be serviceable in home consumption 
and manufactures. 3. Its leaves are to be plucked , 
as they become yellow, and dried. 4. It affords an 
agreeable and wholesome food to sheep and rab- 
bits. To goats, and rabbits, the little branches are 
a delicious and luxurious gratification, as is also the 
disc of the pure flower, alter the grains have been 
taken out. Rabbits eat the whole except the 
woody part of the plant, which is well adapted for 
the purpose of fuel. 5. Its alkalic qualities appear 
to deserve notice, forty-eight quintals yield eighty 
pounds of alkali, a produce four times superior to 
that of an)' other plant we ai-e acquainted with, 
maize excepted. 6. Might it not be used as a ley? 
And minuter observation might convert it into 
soap, the basis of both being oil. 

Dig and trench about it, as both that and the 



potatoe love new earths. Let the rows be 29 
inches distant from each other, and it will be ad- 
vantageous, as the turnsole loves room. 

Three grains are to be sown distant some inches 
from each other and when their stems are from 
eight to twelve inches high, the finest of the three 
only to be left. Two tufts of French beans to be 
planted with potatoes. The French beans will climb 
up the sides of the sunflower, whicii will act and 
uniformly support lik^ sticks, and the sun-flower 
will second this disposition, by keeping off the 
great heat from the potatoe, and produce more 
than if all had been planted with potatoes. 

Each sun-flower will produce one or two pounds, 
and the acre will bring in a vast amount, or con- 
tain one thousand pounds, being one-third more 
than grain. 

To economize the sunfoiver. 

The cultivation of the annual sun-flower is re- 
commended to the notice of the public, possessing 
the advantage of furnishing abundance of agi'eea- 
ble fodder for cattle in tbeir leaves. When in 
flower, bees flock from all quarters to gather honey. 
The seed is valuable in feeding sheep, pigs, and 
other animals: it produces a striking effect in 
poultry, as occasioning them to lay more eggs, anil 
it yields a large quantity of excellent oil by pres- 
sure; the dry stalks burn well, tlie ashes aft'ording 
a consideraisle quantity of alkali. 

To remove herbs and Jloxvers in the summer. 

If you have occasion to transplant in the sum- 
mer season, let it be in the evening after the heat 
is passed; plant and water the same immediately, 
and there will be no danger from the heat next 
day; but be careful in digging up the earth you do 
not break any of the young shoots, as the sap v"li 
exude out of tbe same, to the great danger "i the 
plants. 

JMethod of growing flowers in winter. 

In order to produce tbis effect, the trees or 
shrubs being taken up in the spring, at the time 
when they are about to bud, with some of their 
own soil carefully preserved among the roots, 
must be placed upright in a cellar till Michael- 
mas; when, with the addition of fresh earth, they 
are to be put into proper tubs or vessels, and pla- 
ced in a stove or hot-house, where they must every 
morning be moistened or refreshed with a solution 
of half an ounce of sal-ammoniac in a pint of rain 
water. Thus, in the month of February, fruits or 
roses will appear, and with respect to flowers in 
general, if they are sown in pots at or before Mi- 
chaelmas, and watered in a similar manner, they 
will blow at Christmas. 

To preserve wood from insects. 

In the East Indies aloes are employed as a varnish 
to pi'eserve wood from worms and other insects; 
and skins, and even living animals, are anointed 
with it for tiie same reason. The havoc commit- 
ted by the white ants, in India, first suggested the 
trial of aloe juice to protect wood from them, for 
which purpose the juice is eitiier used as e.\tracted, 
or in solution by some solvent. 
To preserve young shoots from slugs and earwigs. 

Earwigs and slugs are fond of the points of tlie 
young shoots of carnations and pinks, and are very 
troublesome in places where-they abound; to pre- 
vent them they are sometimes insulated in water, 
being set in cisterns or pans. If a pencil dipped in 
oil was drawn round the bottom of the pots once 
in two days, neither of these insects, or ants, would 
attempt them. Few insects can endure oil, and 
the smallest quantity of it stops their progress. 
Vegetable liquor to hasten the blowing of bidbous 
rooted Jiowers. 

Take nitre, three ounces, common salt, one 
ounce, poi-ash, one ounce, sugar, half an ouuce. 



HORTICULTURE. 



307 



rain water, one pound. Dissolve the salts in a 
gentle heat, in a glazed earthen pot, and when the 
solution is complete, add the sugar, and filter the 
whole. Put about eight drops of this liquor into 
a glass jar, filled with rain or river water. The 
jars nnust be kept always full, and tl»e water re- 
moved every ten or twelve days, adding each time 
a like quantity of the liquor: the flowers also must 
be placed on the corner of a chimney-piece, where 
a fire is regularly kept. I'he same mixture may 
be employed for watering flowers in pots, or filling 
the dishes in which they are placed, in order to 
keep the earth or the bulbs or plants which they 
contain in a state of moisture. 

To restore Jioxuers. 

Most flowers begin to droop and fade after being 
kept during twenty-four hours in water; a few may 
be revived by substituting fresh water; but all (the 
most fugacious, such as poppy, and perhaps one or 
two others excepted), may be restored by the use 
cf hot water. For tliis purpose ])lace the flowers 
in scalding water, deep enonghto cover about one- 
third of tlie length of the stem: by the time the 
water has become cold, the flowers will have be- 
come erect and fresh; then cut oft' the coddled ends 
of the stems, and put them into cold water. 
To preserve Jlo-wer seeds. 

Those who are curious about saving flower seeds 
must attend to tliem in the month of August. 
Many kinds will begin to ripen apace, and should 
be carefully sticked and supported to prevent them 
from being shaken by liigh winds, and so partly 
lost. Others should be defended from much wet: 
such as asters, marygolds, and generally those of 
the class syngenesia; as from the construction of 
their flowers they are apt to rot, and the seeds to 
mould in bad seasons. Whenever they are thougiit 
i-ipe, or indeed any others in wet weatiier, they 
should be removed to an airy shed or loft, gi'adu- 
ally dried, and rubbed or beat out at conveniency. 
When dried wrap tliem up in papers or in tight 
boxes containing powdered charcoal. 

To improve all sorts of seeds. 

Charles Miller, son of the celebrated botanist, 
published a recipe for fertilizing seed, and tried it 
on wheal, by mixing lime, nitre, and pigeons' dung 
in water, and therein steeping the seed. Tlie pro- 
duce of some of these grains is stated at GO, 70, 
and 80 stems, many of the ears 5 inches long, and 
60 corns eacli, and none less than 40. 

To preserve seeds for a long time. 

When seeds are to be preserved longer than 
the usual period, or when they are to be sent to a 
great distance, sugar, salt, cotton, saw dust, sand 
paper, &c. have been adopted with different de- 
grees of success. Chinese seeds, dried by means 
of sulphuric acid, in Leslie's manner, may be af- 
terwards preserved in a vegetating state for any 
necessary length of time, by keeping them in an 
airy situation in common brown paper, and occa- 
sionally exposing them to the air on a fine day, 
especiidly after damp weather. Tliis method will 
succeed with all tlie larger mucilaginous seeds. 
Very small seeds, berries, and oily seeds, may 
probably require to be kept in sugar, or among 
currants or raisins. 

To preserve exotic seeds. 

Five vears ago, says a correspondent of the 
Monthly Magazine, 1 had a collection of seeds 
sent me from Serampoore, in the East Indies, 
which have been since that period kept in small 
bottles, in a dry situation, without corksf last 
spring some of them were sown, and produced 
strong healthy plants, under the following system; 
but if taken from the bottles and sown in the ordi- 
nary way, I have found them either to llil alto- 
gether, or to produce germination so weak that the 



I greatest care can never bring them to any perfec- 
tion. 

1 have long observed that oxygen is necessarj- to 
animal and vegetable life, and that soil, which has 
imbibed the greatest proportion of that air or gas, 
yields the strongest germination, and with the least 
care produces the best and most healthy plants: 
under that impression, I prepare the soil, by adding 
to it a compost made from decayed vegetables, 
night soil, and fresh earth, well mixed together 
and turned several times; but should the M'eather 
be dr)', I have generally founil the compost better 
by adding water to keep it moist. On the evening 
before I intended to sow the seeds, I have immers- 
ed them in a weak solution of oxygenated muriatic 
acid, and suffered diem to remain until they begun 
to swell. 

By pursuing tliis treatment even with our En- 
glisii annual seeds, I am gratified with an earlier 
germination, and with generally stronger and more 
healthy plants. 

To dry fo^aers. 

They should be dried off" as speedily as possible, 
the calyles, claws, Stc. being previously taken 
off; when the flowers are very small, the calyx is 
left, or even tlie whole flowering spike, as in the 
greatest portion of the labiate flowers; compound 
flowers, with pappous seeds, as coltsfoot, ought to 
be dried verj'jiigli, and before they are entirely 
opened, otherwise tlie slight moisture that remains 
would develope the pappi, and tiiese would form a 
kind of cottony nap, which would be very hurtful 
in infusions, by leaving irritating particles in the 

throat Flowers of little or no smell may be dried 

in a heat of 75 to 100 deg. Fahr. tlie succulent 
petals of the liliaceous plants, wliose odour is very 
fugaceous, cannot well be dried; several sorts of 
flowering tops, as those of lesser centaury, lily of 
tlie valley, wormwood, mellilot, water germander. 
Sic. are tied up in small parcels and hung up, or 
exposed to the sun, wrapped in paper cornets, that 
they may not be discoloured. Tlie colour of the 
petals of red roses is preserved by their being 
quickly dried with heat, after which the yellow 
anthers were separated by sifting; the odour of 
roses and red pinks is considerably increased by 
drying. 

To dry tops, leaves, or -ivhole hei^bs. 

They should be gathered in a dry season, cleans- 
ed from discoloured and rotten leaves, screene<l 
from earth or dust, placed on handles covered wiili 
blotting paper and exposed to the sun, or the heat 
of a stove, in a di-y airy place. The quicker they 
are dried tlie better, as they have less time to fer- 
ment or grow mouldy; hence tiiey should be spread 
thin and frequently turned; when dried they should 
be shaken in a large meshed sieve to get rid of the 
eggs of any 'insects. Aromatic herbs ought to be 
dried quickly with a moderate heat, that their 
odour may not be lost. Cruciferous plants should 
not be dried, as in that case they lose all their an- 
tiscorbutic qualities. Some persons have proposed 
to dry herbs in a water bath, but this occasions 
them, as it were, to be half boiled in their own 
water. 

To dry roots. 

They should be rubbed in water to get rid ot 
the dirt and also some of the mucous substance 
that would otherwise render them mouldy — the 
larger are then to be cut, split, or peeled; but in 
most aromatic roots, the odour residing in the bark, 
they must not be peeled; they are then to be spread 
on sieves or hurdles, and dried in a heat of about 
120 deg. Fah. either on the top of an oven, in a 
stove, or a steam closet, taking care to shake tiiera • 
occasionally to change the surface exposed to the 
air. Thick and jmcy roots, as rhubarb, briony, 



308 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



piony, watei"-lily, &c. are cut in slices, strung upon 
a thread, and hung in a heat of about 90 to 100 
deg. Fahr. Squills are scaled, threaded and dried 
round the tube of a German stove, or in a hot 
closet. Rhubarb should be washed to seiiaralo that 
inncous principle which would otherwise render 
It black and soft when powdered. Potatoes are 
cut in slices and died to form a sago. 
To pre.^erve roots. 

These are preserved in different ways, according 
to the object in view. Tuberous rods, as those 
of the dahlia, pceonia, tuberose, bic. intended to 
he planted in tlie succeeding sjiring, are preserved 
through the winter in dry earth, in a temperature 
rather under tlian above what is natural to them. 
So may the bulbous roots of commerce, as hya- 
cinths, tulips, onions, &c. but for convenience, 
these are kept either loose, in cool dry shelves or 
lofts, or the finer sorts in papers, till the season of 
planting. 

Roots of all kinds may be preserved in an ice- 
house till the return of the natural crop. 

After stuffing the vacuities with straw, and co- 
vering the surface of the ice with the same mate- 
rial, i)lace. on it case boxes, dry ware casks, bas- 
kets, &c. and fill them with turnips, carrots, beet 
roots, and in particular, potatoes. 15y the cold of 
the place, vegetation is so much suspended, that 
all these articles may be thus kept fresh and un- 
inj\u-ed, till they give place to another crop in its 
natural season. 

To gather vegetables. 

This is, in part, performed with a knife, and 
part by fracture or torsion with the hand. In all 
cases of using the knife, the general principle of 
cutting is to be attended to, leaving also a sound 
section on the living plant. Gathering with Uie 
hand ought to be done as little as possible. 
To preserve vegetables. 

This is effected in cellars or sheds, of any tem- 
perature, not lower, nor much above tlie freezing 
P'oiut. Thus cabbages, endive, chiccory, lettuce, 
&c. taken out of the ground with their main roots, 
in perfectly dry weather, at the end of the season, 
and laid in, or partially immersed in sand or dry 
earth, in a close shed, cellar, or ice-cold room, 
■(viU keep through the winter, and be fit for use 
till spring, and often till the return of Uie season 
of their produce in the garden. 

7 'imefrj r gat/iei ing fruits. 

This should take place in the middle of a dry 
day. Plums readily part from the twigs when 
ripe: they should not be much handled, as the 
bloom is apt to be rubbed off. Apricots may be 
accounted ready, when the side next the sun feels 
a little soft upon gentle pressure Avith the finger. 
They adhere firmly to the tree, and would over- 
i-ipen on it and become mealy. Peaches and nec- 
tarines, if moved upwards, and allowed to descend 
Avith a slight jerk, will separate, if ready; and they 
may be received into a tin funnel lined with velvet, 
•so as to avoid touching with the fingers or bruising. 

A certain rule for judging of the ripeness of 
figs, is, to notice when the small end of the Iruit 
becomes of the same colour as the large one. 

The most transparent grapes are the most i-ipe. 
All the berries in a bunch never ripen equally; it 
is therefore proper to cut away unripe or decayed 
berries before presenting the bunches at table. 

Autumn and winter pears are gathered, when 
dry, as they successively ripen, 

"immature fruit never keeps so well as that which 
nearly approaches maturity. Winter apples should 
be left on the ti'ees till there be danger of frost; 
they are tlien gathered on a dry day. 
'J'o gather orchard f nuts. 

In respect to the time of gathering, the criterion 



of ripeness, adopted by Forsyth, is (heir begiming 
to fiiU from the tree. Observe attentively when 
the apples and pears are ri[)e; and do not pick thera 
always at the same regul-ar time of the year, as is 
the practice with many. A dry season will for- 
ward the ripening of fruit, and a wet one retard it; 
so that there will sometimes be a month's differ- 
ence in the proper time for gatliering. If this is 
attended to, the fruit will keej) well, and be plump; 
and not shrivelled, as is the case witli all fruit that 
is gathered before it is ripe. 

The art of gathering is to give tliem a lift, so 33 
to press away the stalk, and if ripe, they readily 
part from the tree. Those that will not come off 
easily should hang a little longer; for when they 
come hardly oft' they will not be so fit to store, 
and the violence done at the foot-stalk maj' injure 
the bud there formed for the next year's fruit. 

Let tiie pears be quite dry when pulled, and in 
handling avoid pinching the fruit, or in any way 
bruising it, as those which are hurt not only decay 
themselves, but presently spread infection to those 
near them; when suspected to be bruised, let them 
be carefully kept from others, and used fii^st: as 
gathered, lay them gently in shallow baskets. 
To preseife green fruits. 

Green fruits are generally preserved by pickling 
or salting, and this operation is usually performed 
by some part of the domestic establishment. 
7'o preserve ripe fruit. 

Such ripe fruit as may be preserved, is genei^lly 
laid up in lofts and bins, or shelves, wlien in large 
quantities, and of baking qualities; but the better 
sorts of apples and pears are now preserved in a 
system of drawers, son^etimes spread out in them, 
at other times wrapped up in papers; or placed in 
pots, cylindrical earthen vessels, among sand, 
moss, ])aper, chuff, hay, saw-dust, &c. or sealed 
up in air tight jars or casks, and placed in the fruit 
cellar. 

To presence pears. 

Having prepared a number of earthen-ware jars, 
and a quantity of dry moss, place a layer of moss 
and pears alternately, till the jar is filled, then in- 
sert a ]ilug, and seal around with melted rosiiu 
These jars are sunk in dry sand to tiie depth of a 
foot; a deep cellar is preferable for keeping them 
to any fruit room. 

Anotlier method. — Choice apples and pears are 
preserved in glazed jars, provided with covers, 
in the bottom of the jars, and between each layer 
of fruit, jiut some pure pit-sand, which has been 
thoroughly dried. The jars are kejit in a dry Aivy 
situation, as cool as possible, but secure from frost. 
A label on the jar indicates the kind of fruit, and 
when wanted, it is taken from the jars, and placed 
for some time on the siielves of the fruit room. 

In this way colmarts, and other fine Frencli 
pears, may be preserved till April; the terliug till 
June: and miuiy kinds of apples tiUJuly, the skin 
remaining. 

To preserve ap files and pears. 

The most successful method of preserving apples 
and pears, is by placing (hem in glazed earthen 
vessels, each containing about a gallon, and sur- 
rounding each fruit with paper. These vessels 
being perfect cylinders, about a foot each in height, 
stand very conveniently upon each other, and thus 
present the means of preserving a large quantity 
of fruit iu a very small room; and if the space be- 
tween the top 01 one vessel and the base of another, 
be filled with a cement composed two parts of the 
curd of skimmed milk, and one of lime, by which 
tlie air will be excluded, the later kinds of apples 
and pears will be preserved with little change in 
I tlieir appearance, and without any danger of decay, 
1 from October till February and March. A diy 



HORTICULTURE. 



309 



and cold situation, in vhich tliere is Utile change 
cf temperature, is the best for the vessels; but tiie 
merits of the pears are greatly iiici eased by their 
being taken from the vessels about ten days "before 
they are wanted for use, and kept in a warm room, 
for warmth at this, as at other periods, accelerates 
the maturit)' of the pear. 

'J 'o preserve various sorts of fruit. 
By covering some sorts of cheiiy, plum, goose- 
berry, and currant trees, either on walls or on 
bushes with mats, the fruit of the red and wiiite 
currant, and of the tliicker skinned gooseberry- 
trees, may be preserved till Christmas and later. 
Grapes, in the open air, may be preserved in the 
uame niannei'; and peaches and nectarines may be 
kept a month hanging on the trees after they sx-c 
ripe. 

Arkwright, by late forcing, retains plump grapes 
on his vines till tlie beginning of May, and even 
later, till tlie maturity of his early crops. In this 
way, grapes may be gathered every day in the 
year. 

Another method. — But the true way to preserve 
kecpiiig-fruit, such as the apple and pear, is to put 
them in air-tight vessels, and place them in llie 
fruit cellar, in a temfierature between 3'2 and 40 
degrees. In this way all the keeping sorts of these 
fruits may be preserved, in perfect order for eat- 
ing, for one year after gathering. 
To store fruit. 

Those to be used first, lay by singly on shelves, 
or on the floor, in a dry southern room, on clean 
dry moss, of sweet dry straw, so as not to touch 
one another. Some, or all the rest, having first 
laid a fortnight singly, and then nicely culled, are 
to be spread on slielvcs, or on a dry floor. But 
tlie most superior way is, to pack in large eartlien, 
or China or stone jars, with very dry long moss at 
tlie bottom, sides, and also between them, if it 
might be. Press a good coat of moss on the top, 
and then stop the mouth close with cork, or other- 
wise, which should be rosined round about with a 
20th part of beeswax in it. As the oliject is effec- 
tually to keep out air (the cause of putrefaction), 
the jars, if earthen, may he set ondiy sand, wiiich 
put also between, round, and over them, to a foot 
thick on the top. In all close storing, observe 
there should be no doubt of llie soundness of Uie 
fruit. Guard, in time, from frost those ihat lie 
open. Jars of fruit must be soon used after uu- 
Bealing. 

To keep apples and pears fur market. 

Those who keep tlieir fruit in store-houses for 
tb"? supply of the London and other markets, as 
well as tliose who have not proper fiuit-rooms, may | 
keep their apples and pears in baskets or hampers; 
putting some soft paper in the bottoms and round \ 
the edges of the baskets, &cc. to keep the fruit from 
being bruised; then put in a layer of fruit, and over 
that another layer of paper; and so on, a layer of 
fruit and of paper alternately, till the basket or 
hamper be full: cover the lop with paper 3 or 4 
times double, to exclude the air and frost as much 
as possible. Every diffeT'int sort of fruit should 
be placed separntely; and it will be proper to fix a 
label to eacli basket or hamper, wiih the name of 
the fruit tliat it contaius, and the lime of its being 
fit for use. 

Another -way. 

But the best way of keeping fruit, is to pack it 
in glazed earthen jars. The pears or apples must 
be separately wrapped up in soft paper, then put a 
little well-dried bran in the bottom of the jai", and 
over tlie bran a layer of fruit; then a little more 
bran to fill up the interstices between the fruit, and 
to cover it; and so on, a layer of fruit and bran 
alternately, till llie jar be full: tlien sliake it gently, 



which will piake the fi-uit and bran sink a little; 
fill up the vacancy at top with a piece of bladder 
to exclude the air; then put on the top or cover of 
the jar, observing that it fits as closely as jiossible. 
'i'hese jars should be kept in a room where there 
can be a fire in wet or damp weather. 

Nicol considers it an error to sweat apples, pre- 
viously to storingthem. The fruit ever after retains 
a bad flavour. It sliould never be laid in heaps at 
all; but if quite dry wlien gathered, should be im- 
mediately carried to the fruit room, and be laid, 
if not singly, at least thin on the shelves. If the 
finer fruits are placed on any thing else than a clean 
shelf, it should be on fine ])aper. Brown paper 
gives them the flavour of pitch. Tiie fine larger 
kinds of pears should not be allowed even to touch 
one another, but should be laid quite single and 
distinct. Apples, and all oilier ])ears, should be 
laid thin; never tier above tier. Free air should 
be admitted to the fruit-room always in good 
weatlier, for several hours every day; and in damp 
weatiier a fire shouhl be kept in it. Be careful at 
all times to exclude frost from tlie fruit, and occa- 
sionally to turn it when very mellow. 

To preserve fruits orfloxvers. 

Mix 1 pound of nitre with 2 pounds of bole 
ammoniac, and 3 pounds of clean common sand. 
In dry weather, take fruit of any sort, not fully 
ripe, allowing the stalks to remain, and put them 
one by one into an open glass, till it is quite full; 
cover the glass with oiled cloth, closely tied down; 
put the glass 3 or 4 inches into the earth, in a dry 
cellar, and surround it on all sides, to the depth 
of 3 or 4 inches, with the above mixture. This 
method will preserve tlie fruit quite fi-esh all the 
year round. 

To presei~ve xualnuts. 

"Walnuts for keeping should be suffered to drop 
of themselves, and afterwards laid in an open airy 
place till thoroughly dried; then pack them in jars, 
boxes, or casks, with fine clean sand, that lias been 
well dried in the sun, in an oven, or before the fire, 
in layers of sand and walnuts alternately; set them 
in a dry place, but not where it is too hot. In this 
manner, they have been kept good till the latter 
end of April. Before sending them to table, wipe 
the sand clean oft": and if they have become shri- 
velled, steep them in milk and water for 6 or 8 
hours before they are used; this will make them 
plump and fine, and cause them to peel easily. 
To preserve chesmits and filberts. 

The chesnut is to be treated like the walnut, 
after the husk is removed, which in the chesnut, 
opens of itself. Chesnuts and w.alnuts may be 
preserved during the whole winter, by covering 
them with earth, as cottagers do potatoes. 

Filberts may always be gathered by hand, and 
should afterwards be treated as the walnut. Nuts 
intended for keeping should be packed in jars or 
boxes of dry sand. - 

'To preserve meu^: and quinces. 

The medlar is not good till rotten ri[)e. It is 
generally gathered in the beginning of November, 
and placed between two layers of straw, to forward 
its maturation. Others put medlars in a box on a 
three-inch layer of tresh bran, moistened well with 
soft warm water; then strew a layer of straw be- 
tween them, and cover with fruit two inches thick; 
which moisten also, but not so wet as before. In a 
week or ten days attei^ this operation tliey will be 
fit for use. 

Quinces are gathered in November, when they 

are generally ripe. After sweating in a heap for 

a few days, they are to be wiped dry, and placed 

on tlie fruit-shelf, at some distance from each other. 

7'o packfndt for carnage. 

If fruit is to be sent to any considerable distance. 



310 



CrNI\T:RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



great care should be taken in packing it: it should 
)iot be done in baskets, as they are liable to be 
bruised among heavy luggage, and tlie fruit of 
course will be impaired. Forsyth, therefore, re- 
commends boxes made of strong deal, of different 
sizes, according to the quantity of fruit to be pack- 
ed. I'lie following are tbe dimensions of the boxes 
in which fruit used to be sent by the coach to 
Windsor and \^'eymouth, for the use of his late 
majesty and the royal family. 

The larger box is 2 feet long, 14 inches broad, 
and tfte same in deptU. The smaller box is one 
foot nine inches long, one foot broad, and the same 
in deptli. These boxes are made of inch deal, and 
veil secured with three iron clumps at each corner; 
they liave two small iron handles, one at each end, 
by which they are fastened to the roof of the coach. 
In these boxes are sent melons, cherries, currants, 
pears, peaches, nectarines, plums, and grapes; they 
arc hrst wrapped in pine leaves, and then in paper. 
The cherries and currants are first packed in a flat 
tin box, one foot four inches long, ten inches broad, 
and four deep. 

In packing, proceed thus: — First put a layer of 
fine long diy moss in tiie bottom of the tin box, 
then a layer of currants or cherries, then another 
la3'er of moss; and so on, alternately fruit and 
moss, until the box is so full, that when the lid is 
hasped down, the fruit may be so finely packed as 
to preserve them from friction. Tlien make a j 
layer of fine moss, and short, soft dry grass, well 
mixed, in the bottom of the deal box: pack in the 
melons with some of the same, tight in between all 
the rows, and also between the melons in the same 
row, till the layer is finished; choosing the fruit as 
nearly of a size as possible, filling up every inter- 
stice with the moss and grass. When the melons 
are packed, put a thin layer of moss and grass over 
tiiem, upon which place the tin box with the cur- 
rants, packing it firmly all round with moss to 
prevent it from shaking; then put a thin layer of 
moss over the box, and pack the pears firmly (but 
so as not to bruise them) on that layer, in the same 
manner as the melons; and so on with the peaches, 
nectarines, plums, and lastly the grapes, filling up 
the box witb moss, that the lid may shut down 
so tight as to prevent any friction among the 
fruit. The boxes sliould have locks and two keys, 
•which may serve for them all: each of the persons 
"who pack and unpack the fruit having a key. The 
moss and grass should always be returned" in the 
boxes, which, with a little addition, will serve the 
■\vhole season; being shaked up and well aired after 
each journey, and keeping it sweet and clean. 
After the wooden box is locked, cord it firmly. 

If fruit be packed according to the above direc- 
tions, it may be sent to the farthest parts of the 
kingdom, by coaches or wagons, with perfect safety. 
Other methods of packing fndt. 

Fruits of the most delicate sorts are sent from 
Spain and Italy to England, packed in jars witn 
saw-dust from woods not resinous or otherwise ill 
tasted. One large branch of grapes is suspended 
from a twig or pin laid across the mouth of the 
jar, so as it may not touch either the bottom or 
sides; saw-dust or bran is then strewed in, and 
■when full, the jar is well shaken to cause it to set- 
tle; more is then added till it is quite full, when 
the supporting twig is taken away, and the earthen 
cover of the jar closely fitted and sealed, generally 
■with fine stucco. 

In the same way grapes may be sent from the 
remotest parts of Scotland or Ireland to the me- 
tropolis. When the distance is less, they may be 
sent enveloped in fine paper, and packed in moss. 
The simplest mode for short distances is to wrap 
each bunch in fine soft paper, and lay them on a 



bed of moss in a broad flat basket with a proper 
cover. 

Cherries and plums may be packed in thin lay- 
ers, witli paper and moss between each. 

Peaches, apricots, and the finer plums, may each 
be wrapped separately in vine or other leaves, or 
fine ])aper, and packed in abundance of cotton, flax, 
fine moss, or (h-ied short grass. Moss is apt to 
communicate its flavour to fine fruits, and so is 
short grass, if not thoroughly dried and sweetened. 
Cotton best preserves liie bloom on peaches and 
plums. 

To preserve grapes. 

Where there are several bunches in one branch, 
it may be cut oft", leaving about 6 inches in length 
or more of the wood, according to the distance 
between the bunches, and a little on the outside of 
the fruit at each end; seal both ends with common 
bottle wax, then hang them across a line in a dry 
room, taking care to clip out, with a pair of scissars, 
any of the berries that begin to decay or become 
mouldy, which, if left, would taint the otliers. la 
this way grapes may be kept till Februaiy; but if 
cut before the bunches are too ripe, they may be 
kept much longer. 

Grapes may be kept by packing them in jars 
(every bunch being first wrapped up in soft paper), 
and covering every layer with bran, well dried, 
la)Mng a little of it in the bottom of the jar; then a 
la3'er of grapes, and so on, a layer of bran and of 
grapes alternately, till the jar is filled: then shake 
it gently, and fill it to the top with bran, laying 
some paper over it, and covering the top with a 
bladder tied firmly on to exclude the air; then put 
on the top or cover of the jar, observing that it fits 
close. These jars should be kept in a room where 
a fire can be kept in wet damp weather. 

French method of preserving grapes. 

Take a cask or barrel inaccessible to the exter- 
nal air, and put into it a layer of bran dried in an 
oven, or of ashes well dried and sifted. Upon this 
place a layer of bunches of grapes well cleaned, 
and gathered in the afternoon of a dry day, before 
they are perfectly ripe. Proceed thus, with alter- 
nate layers of bran and grapes, till the barrel is 
full, taking care that the grapes do not touch each 
other, and to let (he last layer be of bran; then 
close the barrel, so that the air may not be able to 
penetrate, which is an essential point. Grapes 
thus packed will keep 9 or even 12 months. To 
restore them to their freshness, cut the end of the 
stalk of each bunch of grapes, and put that of 
white grapes into white wine, and that of black 
grapes into red wine, as flowers are put into wa- 
ter to revive or to keep them fresh. 

To pack young trees for exportation. 

The long white moss of the marshes, sphagnum 
palustre, may be applied for this purpose. Squeeze 
out part of the moisture from the moss, and lay 
courses of it about 3 inches thick, interposed witti 
other courses of the trees, shortened in their 
branches and roots, stratum above stratum, till the 
box is filled; then let the whole be trodden down, 
and the lid properly secured. The trees will 
want no care, even during a voyage of 10 or 12 
months, the moss been retentive of moisture, and 
appearing to possess an antiseptic property, which 
prevents fermentation or putrefaction. Vegetation 
will proceed during the time the trees remain in- 
closed, shoots arising both from the branches and . 
roots, which, however, are blanched and tender, 
for want of light and air, to w hich the trees require 
to be gradually inured. This moss is very commoD 
in most parts of Europe and America. 

Practical directions to gardetiers. 

1. Perform every opei-ation in the proper season, 

2. Perform every operation in the beat manner. 



HORTICULTURE. 



311 



This is to be acquired in part by practice, and 
pai-lly also bj'. reflection. For example, in digging 
over a piece of ground, it is a common practice 
with slovens to throw the weeds and stones on the 
dug ground, or on the adjoining alley or walk, with 
the intention of gathering them off afterwards. A 
better way is to have a wheel-barrow, or a large 
basket, in which to put the weeds and extraneous 
matters, as tiiey are picked out of the ground. 
Some persons, in planting or weeding, whether in 
the open air, or in Ijot houses, throw down all 
seeds, stones, and extraneous matters on the paths 
or alleys, with a view to pick them up, or sweep 
or rake them together afterwards: it is better to 
cany a basket or other utensil, either common or 
subdivided, in which to hold in one part the plants 
to be planted, in another the extraneous matters, 8<c. 

3. Complete every part of an operation as you 
proceed. 

4. Finish one job before beginning another. 

5. In leaving off working at any job, leave the 
work and tools in an orderly manner. 

6. In leaving off work for the day, make a tem- 
porary finish, and carry the tools to the tool-house. 

7. In passing to and from the work, or on any 
occasion, through any part of what is considered 
under the charge of the gardener, keep a vigilant 
look out for weeds, decayed leaves, or any otlier 
deformity, and remove them. 

8. In gathering a crop, rei»ove at the same time 



the roots, leaves, stems, or whatever else is of no 
fartlier use, or may appear slovenly, decaying, or 
offensive. 

9. Let no crop of fruit, or herbaceous vegetables, 
go to waste on the spot. 

10. Cut down the flour stalks of all plants. 

11. Keep every part of what is under your care 
perfect in its kind. 

Attend in spring and autumn to walls and build- 
ings, and get them repaired, jointed, glazed, and 
painted where wanted. Attend at all times to 
machines, implements, and tools, keeping them 
clean, sharp, and in perfect repair. See pra-ticu- 
larly that they are placed in their proper situations 
in the tool-house. House every implement, uten- 
sil, or machine not in use, both in winter and sum- 
mer. Allow no blanks in edgings, rows, single 
specimens, drills, beds, and even where practica- 
ble, in broad-cast sown pieces. Keep edgings and 
edges cut to the utmost nicety. Keep tiie shapes 
of the wall trees filled with wood according to 
their kind, and let tlieir training be in the first 
style of perfection. Keep all walks in perfect 
form, whetlier raised or flat, free from weeds, dry, 
and well rolled. Keep all the lawns, by every 
means in your power, of a close texture, and dark 
green velvet appearance. Keep water clear and 
free from weeds, and let not ponds, lakes, or arti- 
ficial rivers, rise to tlie brim in winter, nor sink 
very far under it in summer. 



HUSBANDRY. 



Component parts of soil. 

In general the component parts of the soil, what- 
ever may be the colour, are argil, sand, water, and 
air; for into these original principles may all earths 
be reduced, however blended witli apparently fo- 
reign substances. Argil is the soft and unctuous 
part of clay. The primitive earths, argil and 
sand, contain each, perhaps in nearly equal degrees, 
tlie food of plants; but in their union the purposes 
of vegetation are most completely answered. The 
precise quantities of each necessary to make this 
union perfect, and whether they ought to be equal, 
it is neither very easy nor very material to ascer- 
tain, since that point is best determined in practice, 
■when the soil proves to be neither too stiff or ad- 
hesive, from the superabundance of clay, nor of 
too loose and weak a texture, from an over quan- 
tity of sand in its composition. The medium is 
undoubtedly best; but an excess towards adhesion 
is obviously most safe. A stiff or strong soil holds 
the water which falls upon it for a long time, and, 
being capable of much ploughing, is naturally well 
qualified for carrying the most valuable arable 
crops. A light sod, or one of a texture feeble and 
easily broken, is, on the contrary, soon exhausted 
by aralion, and requires renovation by grass; or 
otherwise it cannot be cultivated to advantage. 
To distinguish clayey soils. 

A clayey soil, though distinguished by the colour 
which it bears, namely black, white, yellow, and 
red, differs from ail other soils, being tough, wet, 
and cold, and consequently requiring a good deal 
of labour from the husbandman before it can be 
sufficiently pulverized, or placed in a state for bear- 



ing artificial crops of corn or grass. Clay land is 
known by the following qualities, or properties: 

It holds water like a cup, and once wetted does 
not soon dry. In like manner, when thoroughly 
dry, it is not soon wetted; if we except the varie- 
eties which have a thin surface, and are the worst 
of all to manage. In a dry summer, clay cracks, 
and shows a surface full of small chinks, or open- 
ings. If ploughed in a wet state, it sticks to the 
plough like mortar, and in a dry summer, the 
plougli turns it up in great clods, scarcely to be 
broken or separated by the heaviest roller. 
2'o manage sandy soils. 

Soils of this description are managed with infi- 
nitely less trouble, and at an expense greatly infe- 
rior to what clays require; but at tlie same time, 
the crops produced from them are generally ot' 
smaller value. There are many varieties of sand, 
however, as well as of clay; and in some parts of 
the country, the surface is little better than a bare 
barren sand, wherein artificial plants will not take 
root unless a dose of clay or good earth is previ- 
ously administered. This is not tlie soil meant 
by the farmer when he speaks of sands. To speak 
practically, the soil meant is one where sand is 
predominant, although there be several other 
earths in the mixture. From containing a great 
quantity of sand, these soils are all loose and 
crumbling, and never get into a clod, even in the 
driest weatlier. This is the great article of distinc- 
tion betwixt sands and sandy loams. A sandy loam, 
owing to tlie clay that is in it, does not crumble 
down, or become loose like a real sand, but retains a 
degree of adhesion after wetness or drought, not with- 



312 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



staading the quantity of sand that is mixed with 
it. Perhaps a true sandy loam, incumlient upon 
a sound subsoil, is the most valuable of all soils. 
Upon such, every kind of grain may be raised with 
advantage, and no soil is ijetter calculated for tur- 
nips and grass. 

The real sands are not favourable to the growth 
of wheat, unless when preceded by clover, which 
binds the surface, and confers a temporary strength 
fur sustaining that grain. Much of the county of 
Norfolk is of this description; and it is well 
known tliat few districts of the kingdom yield a 
greater quantity of produce. Till Norfolk, how- 
ever, was invigorated by clay and marl, nearlj' one 
half of it was little better than waste; but by the 
success which accompanied the use of these aux- 
iliaries, a new soil was in a manner created; which, 
by a continuation of judicious management, has 
given a degree of fame to tlie husbandry of tliat 
country, far sui'passing that of oUier districts natu- 
rally more fertile. 

Gravelly soils. 

The open porous nature of these soils disposes 
them to imtjibe moisture, and tp part with it with 
great facility: from the latter of which circumstati- 
ces they are subject to burn, as i t is termed, i n dry sea- 
sons. The main difference between gravel and sand 
is, that the former is chiefly composed of small soft 
stones; though m some instances llie stones are of a 
siliciousor flinty nature, and, in others, of the calca- 
reous or chalky. From these constitutional circum- 
stances arise the propriety of deepeninggravelly soils 
by coats of marl or earth, and of keeping them fresh 
by frequent returns of grass, and repeated appli- 
cations of manure. Gravelly soils, from the light- 
ness of their texture, are not expensive or diflicult 
in tlie means of cultivation. All the necessary 
busiiress required for gravels may be carried for- 
ward with ease and expedition; and such soils are, 
in general, soon brought into a proper state for 
the reception of crops. 

The constitutional qualities of gravels point out 
the propriety of ploughing them deep, so that the 
surface soil may be augmented, and greater room 
given to the growth of the plants cultivated on 
them. A shall()w-])loughed gravel can stand no 
excess of weather, liowever enriched by maimre. 
It is burnt up by a day or two of draught, and it is 
almost equallj' injured by an excessive fall of rain, 
unless the pan or firm bottom, w liich such soils 
easily gain, be frequently broken tlirough by deep 
ploughing. 

Uses of different soils. 

Clayey soils, when sufliciently enriched with 
Manures, are naturally well qualified for carrying 
crops of wheat, oats, beans, and clover; but are 
not iitted for barley, turnips, potatoes, ivc. or oven 
fjr being kept luider for grass longer than one 
year. Such sods ought to be regularly summer- 
lallowed once in six, or at least once in eight years, 
even when they are comparatively in a clean state, 
as they contract a sourness and adhesion from wet 
jiloughing, only to be removed by exposure to tlie 
sun and wind during the dry months of summer. 
Soils of this kind receive little benefit from winter 
ploughing, uidess so far as their surface is thereby 
presented to the fro&t, which mellows and reduces 
them in a manner infinitely superior to what could 
he accomplished by all the operations of man. 
Still they are not cleaned or made free of weeds by 
winter ploughing; and therefore this operation can 
O'aly be considered as a good means for procuring 
a seed-bed, in which the seeds of the future crop 
may be safely deposited. Hence the necessity of 
cleaning clay soils during the summer months, and 
of having always a large part of every clay farm 
imder summer fallow. All clayey soils require 



great industry and care, as well as a considcrabi* 
portion of knowledge in dressing or management, 
to keep them in good condition; yet when their 
natural toughness is got the better of, they always 
yield the heaviest and most abundant crops. One 
tiling requisite for a clayey soil, is to keep it rich 
and full of manure; a poor clay being the most un- 
grateful of all soils, and hardly cajiable of repay- 
ing the expense of labour, after being worn out 
and exhausted. A clayey soil also receives, com- 
paratively, small benefit from grass; and whea once 
allowed to get into a sterile condition, the most 
active endeavours will witli difficulty restore ferti- 
lity to it after the lapse of many years. 

Uiion liglit soils, the case is very different. 
These flourish under the grass husbandly; and 
bare summer fa!low is rarely retjuired, be- 
cause they may be cleaned and cropped in the 
same year, witii that valuable esculent, turnip. 
Upon light soifs, however, wheat can seldom be 
extensively cultivated; nor can a crop be obtained 
of e((ual value, either in respect to quantity or 
qualiiy, as on clay sand loams. The best method 
of procuring wiieats on light lands, is to sow upon 
a clover stubble, when the soil has got an artificial 
solidity of body and is thereby renilered capable 
of sustaining tliis grain till it arrives at maturity. 
The same observation ajjplies to soils of a gravel- 
ly nature; and upon botii, barley is generally 
fouTid of as great benefit as wheat. 

Thin clays, and peat earths, are more friendly 
to the growth of oats than of other grains, though 
in favourable seasons a heavy crop of wheat may 
be obtained from a thin clayey soil, when it has 
been completely summer-fallowed, and enriolied 
withdung. A first application of calcareous ma- 
nure is general!}' acconipanieil with great advan- 
tage upon these soils; but Aviien once the effect 
of this application is over, it can hardly be repeat- 
ed a second time, unless the land has been very 
cautiously managed al'rer the first dressing. Nei- 
ther of these soils is friendly to grass, yet there is 
a necessitj- of exercising this husbandry with them, 
because they are incapable of standing the plough 
more than a year or t^o in the course of a rotation. 
Wheat ought to be the predominant crop 
upon all the rich clays and strong loams, and that 
light soils of every kind are well qualified for tur- 
ni|>s, barley, Sec. Upon the thin and moorish soils, 
oats must necessarily preserve a prominent rank; 
and grass seeds may be cultivated upon every one 
of them, though wi*li difterent degrees of advan- 
tage, according to the natural and artificial rich- 
ness of each soil, or to the qualities which it pos- 
sesses for encouraging tiie growth of clover, in the 
first instance, and preserving the roots of the plant 
afterwards. 

Operation of tillage. 
Tillage is an o[)eration whereby tlie soil is either 
cleared from noxious weeds, or prepared for re- 
ceiving the seeds of plants cultivated by the hus- 
bandman. When this operation is neglected, or 
even partially executed, lUe soil becomes foul, 
barren, and unproductive; hence, upon arable 
farms, tillage forms the prominent brancli of work; 
and, according to the perfection, or imperfection, 
with which it is executed, the crops of the hus- 
bandman, whether of corn or grass, are in a great 
measure regulated. 

I'illage, in the early ages, was performed by 
hand labour; but, in modern times, the plough has 
been the universal instrument used for executing 
this necessary and important branch of rural work. 
In no other way can large fields be turned over, 
because the expense of digging with the spade, the 
only other method of turning over the ground, 
would much exceed any profit that can be reaped. 



HUSBAXDRy. 



113 



Stones lying above or below the surface are the 
tnOst tbrmidiible obstruction to perfect tillage. 
On stony ground, the vi'ork is not only imperfectly 
executed, but in many cases the implement is bro- 
ken to pieces, and a considerable portion of time 
lost before it is repaired, and put in order. The 
removal of stones, therefore, especially of such as 
are below the surface, ought to be a primary ob- 
ject with every agriculturist; because a neglect 
oftliis kind may afterwards occasion him conside- 
rabJe loss and inconvenience. 

To drain the ground, in other words, to lay it 
dry, also facilitates tillage exceedingly; for plough- 
ing cannot be performed with advantage where 
either the surface or subsoil is wet. 
Best mode of tillage. 

The only sure and certain way by which the soil 
is cleaned or rendered free of weeds, is by plough- 
ing in the summer months, when the ground is 
dry, and when, by the influence of the sun and atr, 
the weeds may be destroyed with facility. Sel- 
dom at any other period is the soil much benefited 
by ploughing, unless so far as a seed-bed is thus 
procured for the succeeding crop; and though the 
situation or state of the ground, when these inter- 
mediate ploughings are bestowed, is of importance 
in judging of their utility, yet the radical y)rocess 
of summer fallow cannot, by any means, be alto- 
gether dispensed with. Though, if the winter and 
spring ploughings are executed under favourable 
circumstances, and plenty of manure is at hand, it 
may be delayed for a greater number of years than 
is otherwise practicable, if good husbandry is to 
be maintained. 

Without summer fallow, or, which is the same 
thing, without working the ground in the summer 
months, perfect Imsbandry is unattainable on all 
heavy or cold soils, and upon every variety incum- 
bent on a close or retentive bottom. 

To keep his land clean will always be a princi- 
pal object witli every good farmer; for if this is 
neglected, in place of carrying rich crops of corn 
or grass, the ground will be exhausted by crops 
of weeds. Wliere land is foul, every operation 
of husbandrj' must be proportionably non-effec- 
tive; and even the manures applied will, in a great 
measure, be lost. 

Tne necessity of summer fallow depends great- 
ly upon the nature and qmality of the soil; as, upon 
some soils, a repetition of this practice is less fre- 
quently required than upon others. Wherever 
tlie soil is incumbent upon clay or till, it is more 
disposed to get foul, than when incumbent upon a 
dry gravelly bottom; besides, wet soils, from be- 
ing ploughed in winter, contract a stiffness which 
lessens the pasture of artificial plants, and prevents 
them from receiving sufficient nourishment. When 
land of a dry gravelly bottom gets foul, it may ea- 
sily be cleaned without a plain summer fallow; 
since crops, such as turnips, &c. may be substitu- 
ted in its place, which, when drilled at proper in- 
tervals/ admit of being ploughed as often as neces- 
sary; whereas wet soils, which are naturally unfit 
for carrying such crops, must be cleaned and 
brought into good order, by frequent ploughings 
and harrowings during the summer months. 
To conduct a fallow. 

Upon all clayey soils (and upon such only is 
a complete suiftmer fallow necessary), the first 
ploughing ought to be given during the winter 
months, or as early in the spring as possible; which 
greatly promotes the rotting of the sward and stub- 
ble. This should be done by gathering up the 
ridge, which both lays the ground dry, and rips 
up the furrows. As soon as seed-time is over, the 
ridge should be cloven down, preparatory to cross 
ploughing; and after lying a proper time, should 



be harrowed and rolled repeatedly, and every par- 
ticle of quickens that the harrows have brought 
above, should be carefully picked off with the hand. 
It is then proper to ridge or gather it up immedi- 
ately, which both lays the land in proper condi- 
dition for meeting bad weather, and opens up 
any fast Jand that may have been missed in the 
furrows when the cross ploughing was given. After 
this, harrow, roll and gather the root weeds again; 
and continue so doing till the field is perfectly clean. 
To prepare the ground. 

The above object is most completely accom- 
plished, when the ground is ploughed deep and 
equal, while the bottom of the furrow immediately 
above the subsoil is perfectly loosened, and turned 
equally over with the part which constitutes the 
surface. In many places, these properties are alto- 
gether neglected, the ground being ploughed in a 
shallow way, while the bottom of ilie ploughed 
land remains something like the teetli of a saw, 
having the under part of the furrow untouched, 
and consequently not removed by the action of the 
plough. While these tilings are suffered, the ob- 
ject of tillage is only partially gained . The food of 
plants can only be imperfectly procured; and tlie 
ground is drenched and injured by wetness; these 
ridges, or pieces of land, which are not cut, pre- 
venting a descent of the moisture from above tJ 
the open furrows left for cai-rying it off. Where 
the seed-bed is prepared by one ploughing, the 
greatest care ought to be used in liaving it closely 
and equally performed. "When two are given, they 
should be in opposite directions, so that any firm 
land left in the first may be cut up in the second 
ploughing. It is not profitable to plough twice one 
way, if it can be safely avoided. 

Another important point towards procuring 
good tillage, is never to plough the land uhen in a 
wet stale; because encouragement is tims given to 
the growth of weeds, while a sourness and adhesioQ 
is communicated to the ground, which is rarely 
got the better of till the operatioi>s of a summer fal- 
low are again repeated. 

All soils ought not to be wrought, or ploughed, 
in one manner. Each kind has its particular and 
appropriate qualities; and, therefore, each requires 
a particular and appropriate mode of tillage. Piough- 
rng, which is the capital operation of husbandry, 
oughtjOn these accounts, to be administered accord- 
ing to the nature of the soil which is to be operated 
upon, and not executed agreeably to one fixed and 
determined principle. On strong clays and loams, 
and on rich gravels and deep sands, the plough ought 
to go as deep as the cattle are able to work it; where- 
as, on tliin clays and barren sands the benefit of deep 
ploughing is very questionable; especially when 
such are incumbent on a till bottom, or where the 
subsoil is of a yellow-ochre nature; such, whea 
turned up, being little better than poison to the 
surface, unless highly impregnated with alluvial 
compost, the effect of which expels the poisonous 
substance contained in this kind of subsoil, and 
gives a fertilitj' to the whole mass, more decisively 
permanent, than would follow a heavy application 
of the best roUen dung. 
Tivo sets of ploughs reqnired for perfect tiRage. " 

On clayey soils, where the riuges must be consi- 
dered acclivated, so that the ground may be pre- 
served in something like a dry condition, the 
plough, used for tillage; ought to have a mould- 
board consideraby wider set than is required for 
light soils, in order that the furrow may be close 
cut below, and duly turned over. This method of 
constructing the plough necessarily makes a hea- 
vier draught tha\i would be the case were the 
mould-board placed differently; though if good and 
sufficient work be wanted, the necessity of con- 

2 Ji 



314 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



\^ 



Btructing the implement in the way mentioned, is 
absolute and indisjiensable. Tlie plough to be used 
on liglit soils, Of on all soils that admit of what is 
technically called crown anVl t'uiTOW plougliing, may 
be made much straighter below, and yet be capa- 
ble of execuliYig tlie work in a perfect manner. On 
every farm, consisting of mixed soils, two sets of 
ploughs ought to be kept, otiierwise proper work 
cannot be performed. All land ought to be plough- 
ed with a shoulder, and the advantages of plougli- 
ing in tliis way are, that, if ploughed before winter, 
tiie surface is enabled to resist the winter rains, 
and afterwards present a face, on which the har- 
rows can make a proper impression, when the 
seed process is to be executed. This deserves 
particular attention when old gi-ass fields are 
l^roken up; as, by neglecting it, the harrows often 
are unable to cover the seed. It is perfectly prac- 
ticable to plough land with a tolerably broad fur- 
row, say 10, 11, or 12 inches, and yet to plough it 
clean, provided the implement used is properly 
constructed; but, then, care must be taken that the 
furrow be of proportionate deepness, otherwise it 
will be laid on its back, instead of being deposited 
at an angle proper for undergoing the harrowing 
process. 

Implements of husbandry . 
Xo country in the world is better provided with 
implements for executing rural labour than Great 
Britain; and to this superiority may, in some mea- 
sure', be attributed the increased and increasing 
)erfection of agriculture over the whole island. 
N& have ploughs of all the dift'erent kinds that ever 
were constructed: as for wheel carriages, the va- 
riet)' is immense; whilst harrows, and other com- 
riion implements, of various constructions and 
dimensions, are equally numerous. But it is in 
the articles more properly allied to machinery, 
that the superiority of British rural implements is 
most conspicuous. Drills for sowing grain and 
small seeds with regularity, have been constructed 
upon scientific principles; and machines for sepa- 
rating grain from straw, have been invented, and 
brought to a degree of perfection which few people 
expected, when these machines were first intro- 
duced. 

J\Ir SmaWs improved Rotherham plough. 
The sock, or share, is made with a fin, or fea- 
ther, whereby the firm earth at the bottom of the 
furrow is cut more completely than was practica- 
ble by the sock of the old ploughs, which acted 
more in the way of mining and forcing than cut- 
ting and removing the earth with facility or ease; 
and the mould-board being of cast metal, may be 
set wider or closer according to the nature of the 
soil on which the plough "is to be used, or the 
height of the ridges that are to be ploughed. This 
implement is, therefore, the best constructed swing 
plough in the island; and l)y means of it a man and 
two horses will, with all ease, plough an English 
acre per day, except in particular seasons, when 
the soil, from drought, has become hard and obsti- 
nate. 

No kind of plough -will cut the furrow so clean, 
or turn it so nicely over for receiving benefit from 
the atmosphere, and effect from the harrowing 
process; and, what is of greater importance, none 
are more easily drawn, taking into account the 
quality of work that is performed, than the one of 
which we are now speaking. A great deal of its 
Utility is determined by the strength of the animals 
employed in the draught; by the dexterity of the 
man to whom the management is committed; and 
by the order and condition in which the coulterand 
share are preserved; for the best constructed im- 
plement will make bad work, when strength 
and dexterity are wanting in tlie operator. But, 



under a parity of circumstances, it may be affirm- 
ed, that the swing plough, brought into practice, 
and afterwards improved by Mr Small, is fitted 
for executing work to a better purpose, than any 
other of the numerous varieties of that implement 
employed in the several districts of Great Britain. 
The mould-board, as the sheath or head, is now 
generally made of cast iron. 

It is now universal over Scotland, and perhaps, 
were it better known in England, it might come to 
displace the complicated ploughs, with wheels and 
other trumpery, with which agriculture there is at 
present incumbered; as it is not apt to be put out 
of order, but, simple in tlie construction, and ef- 
fective in operation, it is adapted to almost every 
situation. The chain, connected with the muzzle, 
by which it is drawn, fixed as far back as the coul- 
ter, is not essential to its formation, serving merely 
to strengthen tlie beam, which m.iy be made 
stronger of itself at less expense, while the tillage 
is as accurately performed with ploughs that have 
none. The price is from 50s. to COs. 
Veitch''s improved ploughs. 
INIr James Yeitch, of Inchbonny near Jedburgh, 
an ingenious arlizan, has made very considerable 
improvements on the plough, ofwiiich he gives the 
following account: — " It is well known to eveiy 
practical farmer, that land, when properly ploughed, 
must be removed from a horizontal position, and 
twisted over to a certain angle, so that it may be 
left in that inclining state, one furrow leaning upon 
another, till the whole field be completely plough- 
ed. The depth and width of the fun-ow which is 
most approved of by farmers, and commonly to be 
met with in the best ploughed fields, are in the pro- 
portion of two to three; or if the furrow be two 
ieet deep, it must be three wide, and left in an 
inclining position from 45 deg. to 46 deg. 

" Mr Small's plough is by far the best known 
in this country; but the perpendicular position of 
the sheath, and the too sudden twist of the sock 
and mould-board, together Avith the mould-board 
not being a proper curve with respect to the different 
resistance that the sock and mould-board will r^eet 
with in ploughing stiff land, render it, in many re- 
spects, not so perfect an instrument as could be 
wished for. As the sock and fore part of the mould- 
board, entering first into the stiff land, meet with 
the greatest resistance, and consequently must wear 
soonest, to remedy this, I begin at the point of the 
sock, and bring it a great way farther forward than 
that of Small's, and by this means give it a more 
oblique position; which diminishes the angle of the 
furrow's ascension from the horizontal to the ver- 
tical position. The more this angle is diminished, 
where it meets with the greatest resistance, the 
less apt will the plough be to tilt out of the land; 
and the nearer to the perpendicular the sheath and 
sock are with respect to the sole of the plough, 
the less hold will it take of the land; and it will be 
more apt to start out. If the point of the stock be 
not made to project a great way below the plane 
of the sole, or point downwards toward the bottom 
of the furrow, the ploughs that are made in this 
fashion grind away the point of the sock below; 
and, as this point is so much inclined, and removed 
from a parallel position with respect to the sole of 
the plough, it increases the friction to that part, I 
and makes the plough a great deal more difficult to I 
draw. This parallel position I have preserved in 
my plough, as far as the strength of cast-iron will 
admit; and, as the furrows are laid parallel on one 
another, I have formed the sock, and that part of 
the mould-board (where the furrow, by twisting 
over, is brought to the perpendicular), by cutting 
away the mould-board pattern, in parallel lines, 
from the sole of the plough to the top of lh« 



HUSBANDRY. 



;i5 



mould-board; and, by these means, I both procure 
a steadier motion for the plough, and also diminish 
the friction, by diminishing the angle, and conse- 
quently render it easier drawn, and less apt to 
break the furrow, 

" In the framing of this plough, 1 have propor- 
tioned one part-to another, so that all parts of it 
may wear alike; the iron work is fixed on the 
plough simply, and at the same time perfectly se- 
cure. I have likewise made a spring steel yard, 
to determine the difference of draught between 
Small's plough and the one which I have con- 
structed." 

Plough for cleaning beans and turnips. 

Besides the improved Rotherham plough, now in 
general use, and worked by two horses, another 
implement, constructed upon the same principles, 
but of smaller dimensions, and considerably light- 
er, is used for cleaning beans, potatoes, and tur- 
nips. This plougli, wrought by one horse, does 
the business completely. It is of advantage to put 
a piece of plate iron betwixt the coulter and sheath 
or head, that the loose earth may not fall through 
upon the young plants. A horse shoe, called a 
scraper, is also used to clean drilled crops on light 
soils, and is very efficacious when annual weeds 
are to be destroyed; but when quicken or other 
root weeds are in the ground, a deeper furrow is 
i-equired, and in that case tiie light Rotherham fur- 
row becomes necessary. 

The universal solving machine. 

This machine, whether made to be worked by 
hand, drawn by a horse, or fixed to a plough, and 
used with it, is extremely simple in its construc- 
tion, and not liable to be put out of order; as there 
is but one movement to direct the whole. It will 
sow wheat, barley, oats, rye, clover, coleseed, 
hemp, flax, canarv, rape, turnip; besides a great 
variety of oilier kinds of grain and seeds, broad- 
cast, with an accuracy hitherto unknown. It is 
equally useful when fixed to a plough; it will then 
drill a more extensive variety of grain, pulse, and 
seed, (through every gradation, with regard to 
quality,) and deliver each kind with greater regu- 
larity, than any drill plough whatever. 

Among many other valuable and peculiar pro- 
perties, it will not only sow in the broad-cast way, 
with a most singular exactness, but save the ex- 
pense of a seeds-man; the seed being sown (either 
over or under furrow at pleasure,) and the land 
ploughed at the same operation. 

Another advantage attending the use of this ma- 
chine is, that the wind can have no effect on the 
falling of the seed. 

The machine, when made to be used without a 

plough, and to be drawn by a horse, may be of 

different lengths. The upper part contains the 

hoppers, from which the grain or seed descends 

, into the spouts. The several spouts all rest upon 

a bar, which hangs and plays freely by two diagonal 

supporters; a trigger, fixed to this bar, bears a 

I catch wheel: this being fixed on the axle, occasions 

a regular and continued motion, or jogging of the 

spouts, quicker or slower in proportion to the space 

I the person sowmg with it drives. At the bottom 

of the machine is placed an apron or shelf, in a 

sloping position, and the corn or seed, by falling 

( thereon from the spouts above, is scattered about 

in every direction. 

To sow the corn or seed in drills, there are 
moveable spouts, which are fixed on, or taken off 
at pleasure, to direct the seed from the upper spout 
to the bottom of the furrow. 
JIarro-ws. 

These beneficial implements are of various sizes 
( and dimensions: but the harrow most commonly 
I Used consists of four bulls, with cross-mortised I 



sheaths, each bull containing five teeth, of from 
five to seven inches in length below the bulls, the 
longest being placed forwards. Harrows of this 
kind, drawn by one horse, are generally used on 
most farms for all purposes, though on others large 
brake-harrows, consisting of five bulls, each con- 
taining six teeth, and worked by two horses, are 
employed during the fallow process, and for reduc- 
ing rough land. Some of these brake-harrows are 
constructed with joints, so as to bend and accom- 
modate their shape to the curvature of ridges. A 
small harrow, with short teeth, is also used for 
covering grass seeds, though we have rarely seen 
any detriment from putting grass seeds as deep into 
the ground as the teeth of ordinary sized harrows 
are capable of going. 

The best methods of haiToiving. 

When employed to reduce a strong obdurate 
soil, not more than two harrows should be yoked 
together, because they are apt to ride and tumble 
upon each other, and thus impede the work, and 
execute it imperfectly. On rough soils, harrows 
ought to be driven as fast as the horses can walk; 
because their effect is in direct proportion to the 
degree of velocity with which they are driven. In 
ordinary cases, and in every case where harrowing 
is meant for covering the seed, three harrows are 
the best yoke, because they fill up the ground more 
effectually, and leave fewer vacancies, than when 
a smaller number is employed. The harrow- 
man's attention, at the seed process, should be 
constantly directed to prsvent these implements 
from riding upon each ether, and to keep them 
clear of every impediment from stones, lumps of 
earth, or clods, and quickens or grass roots; for 
any of these prevents the implement from work- 
ing with perfection, and sauses a mark or trail 
upon the surface, always un pleasing to the eye, and 
generally detrimental to the braird or vegetation 
of the seed. Harrowing is usually given in dif- 
ferent directions, first in length, then across, and 
finally in length as at first. Careful husbandmen 
study, in the finishing part of the process, to have 
the harrows drawn in a straight line, without suf- 
fering the horses to go in a zig zag manner, and 
are also attentive that the horses enter fairly upon 
the ridge, without making a curve at the outset. 
In some instances, an excess of harrowing has 
been found very prejudicial to the succeeding crop; 
but it is always necessary to give so much as to 
break the furrow, and level the surface, otherwise 
the operation is imperfectly performed. 
Hollers. 

The roller is an implement frequently used for 
smoothing the surface of land when in tillage, es- 
pecially when the processes of summer fallow are 
going forward. Several kinds of rollers are used 
in Britain. Some are made of stone, others of 
wood, according to the nature of the operation in- 
tended to be performed. The only material dif- 
ference in rollers is their weight; but it should be 
attended to, when a roller is made of large diame- 
ter, that its weight ought to be the greater; for in 
proportion to the largeness of its diameter, will be 
the extent of surface upon which the roller rests. 
The weight of a roller ought therefore to be in 
proportion to its diameter, otherwise its effect will 
be proportionably diminished. 

Rolling, however, is a modern irapi'overaent, 
and used for different purposes. In the first place, 
it is of great advantage to roll young grasses after 
the ground is stoned, because the scythe can then be 
placed nearer the surface, and the crop cut more 
equally than when the operation is neglected. 
2dly, Land on which turnips are to be cultivated 
can rarely be made fine enough, without the re- 
peated use of this implement. And 3dly, The 



316 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



process of snmmrr fallow, upon strong soils, is 
much iidvancL-d 1)V roHin?;, because, without its aid, 
tliu lar^i; and ohdurate clods cannot be reduced, or 
couch-.^iass eradicated. From these circumstances 
it will n-adily appear, that rollers of various sizes 
and, dimensions are required oi^ every farm, tor 
accomplishing different purposes. Wooden rollers, 
drawn by one horse, answer very well for grass and 
turniii land; but massy stone rollers, drawn either 
by two or tiiree horses, are absolutely necessary 
on clay soils. 

It is obvious, that when a large field is to be 
rolled, a number of rollers ought at once to be set 
at work, otherwise an opportunity may be lost, 
never to be regained. The deficiency is most con- 
spicuous, when barley is taken after turnips in a 
dry season. From poachingthe ground with carts, 
in order to carry oft" the crop, and even by tlie 
treading of sheep, a degree of stiffness is contract- 
ed, which requires the use of the roller before grass 
seeds can be sown. 

On all occasions it is most beneficial to roll 
across, because, wlien going in length, the imple- 
ment is of small benefit to the furrows, tlie slight- 
est acclivation of the ridges preventing the work 
from being etiuallj' performed. The expedition 
vhich takes place when rollers are used, compared 
^vith the tedious and expensive process of break- 
ing clods with malls, formerly the general custom, 
sufficiently proves the importance of these imple- 
ments, though it deserves to be remarked, tliat, 
when rolling is bestowed upon a spring-sown field, 
harrowing it afterwards is of g^-eat advantage. By 
barrowing when the clods are reduced, the earth 
«tands the eftects of rain better afterwards, and 
does not consolidate so firmly as when that process 
is neglected. 

The thrasUng machine. 

The thrashing machine is the most valuable im- 
plement in the farmer's possession, and one which 
adds more to the general produce of liie country, 
than any invention hitherto devised. The saving 
cf manual labour, thereby obtained, is almost in- 
calculable; while the work is performed in a much 
more perfect manner than was formerly practica- 
ble, even when the utmost care and exertion were 
bestowed. In fact, had not the thrashing machine 
been invented, it is hardly possible to conceive 
■what would have been the rate of expense of 
thrashing, or even whether a sufficient number of ' 
bands could, at any rate of expense, have been ob- 
tained for thrashing the grain of the country. 

Since the erection of this machine, Mr Meikle 
has progressively introduced a variety of improve- 
ments, all tending to simplify the labour, and to 
augment the quantity of the work performed. 
When first erected, though the corn was equally 
well separated from the straw, yet as the whole of 
the straw, chaff, and corn, were indiscriminately 
tlirown into a confused heap, the work could only, 
with propriety, be considered as half executed. 
By the addition of rakes, or shakers, and two pair 
of fanners, all driven by the same machinery, the 
diiierent processes of thrashing, shaking, and win- 
nowing, are now all at once performed, and tlie 
corn immediately prepared for the public market. 
When it is added, that the quantity of corn gaineil 
from the superior powers of the machine is fully 
equal to a twentieth part of the crop, and that, in 
some cases, the expense of thrashing and cleaning 
the corn is considerably less than what was for- 
merly paid for cleaning it alone, the immense sav- 
ings arising from the invention will at once be 
eeen. 

The expense of hwse labour, from the increased 
value of the animal, and the charge of his keeping, 
being an object of great importance, it is recom- 



mended that, upon 'all sizeable fiirms, tliat is tr 
say, where two hundred acres, or upwards, of corn 
are sown, the machine should be wrought by wind, 
unless where local circumstances afford the coa- 
venienc)' of water. 

Where coals are plenty and cheap, steam may 
be advantageously used for working ilie machine. 
A respectable farmer, in tlie county of East Lo- 
thian, works his machine in this way; and, being 
situated in the neighbourhood of a collieiy, he is 
enabled to thrash his grain at a trilling expense. 
Method of treading com in Virginia. 

In Virginia and other countries wheat is trodden 
out by horses, nearly in the same way as it was 
formerly done in Palestine by oxen. 

The treading floors are generally froai60to 100 
feet diameter; but the larger their diameter is, so 
much easier is the work to the horses. The track, 
or path, on which tlie sheaves are laid, and on 
which the horses walk, is from 12 to 24 feet wide, 
or more. The floors are commonly enclosed by 
fences; and the horses are generally driven between 
them promiscuously and loose, each pressing to be 
foremost, so that fresh air may be obtained, — 
biting, jostling, and kicking each other with the 
greatest fury. The labour in this way is extremely 
severe. Upon some small floors a centre-stick is 
placed, to which hangs a rope, or a pole and swivel, 
and four or five horses being fastened together, 
travel round upon the sheaves witli the utmost re- 
gularity. Previously to laying down the wheat 
sheaves, the state of the air, and the probability 
of its continuing dry through the day, is fully con- 
sidered. If they resolve to tread, the morning is 
suffered to pass away till the dew is removed. A 
row of sheaves is first laid upon the floors with the 
heads and butts in a line across the tract of it, as 
a bolster for receiving other sheaves; and these 
sheaves range with the path, or circle, the butts 
resting on the floor. Other sheaves are ranged iu 
like manner, with the heads raised on the former, 
till the whole floor is filled, when it appears to be 
filled with nothing but ears of wheat, sloping a 
little upwards. Upon laying down each sheaf, the 
band thereof is cut with a knife. A west wind is 
always desirable while treading is going on, as 
when wind is from the eastward, dampness gens- 
rally prevails. 

In some instances, twenty-four horses are form- 
ed at some distance from the floor into four ranks; 
and when the floor is ready laid, the word is given 
to advance. For the sake of order and i-egular 
work, a boy mounted on one of the foremost horses 
advances in a walk with the whole rank haltered 
or tied together, and enters upon the bed of wheat, 
walking the horses slowly over it; another rank is 
ordered to follow as soon as the first is supposed 
to have obtained a distance equal to a fourth part 
of the circumference of the bed, and in the same 
manner the other ranks proceed. They are for- 
bidden to go past a walk, till they have proceeded 
5 or 6 rounds, when the word is given to move at 
a sober trot, and to keep their ranks at a full dis- 
tance from each other, regularity and deliberate 
movement being necessary for preventing confu- 
sion. The gentle trot is continued till it may be 
supposed the horses have travelled 8 or 9 miles, 
which is the extent of their first journey; they are 
then led oft" to be foddered and watered, when the 
trodden light straw is taken oft" as deep as the jilace 
where the sheaves lie close, and are but partially 
bruised. 

As soon as this first straw is removed, one-third 
of the width of the bed is turned over on the other 
two-thirds from the inner side or circle of the bed, 
which narrows the neck of the next journey. The 
horses are again led on, and trot out their seooMcl 



HUSBANDRY. 



317 



journev, (ill the straw be clear of wheat. The 
outer part of the bed is tlien turned upon the mid- 
die part, when the horses take another journey. 
Tlie loose straw being then taken off, the whole 
remaining bed is turned up from the floor, and 
shaken with forks, and liandles of rakes, after 
which the horses give another tread, whicli finisiies 
the work. Tiie grain is then slioved up from the 
floor with the heads of rakes turned downwards, 
and put into heaps of a conical form, in which 
situation it often remains exposed to the weather 
for several days. The correct American agricul- 
' turists, however, have houses adjoining to tlie 
treading floor, where the grain is deposited till it 
is cleared from the chaff and oftal; though as most 
•of theirt continue treading, if the weather be fa- 
vourable, till the whole crop is separated from the 
straw, it is pretty obvious that tiie grain stands a 
considerable chance of being damaged before the 
several processes are concluded. 

Fanners. 
'•If thrashing machines are of much advantage to 
the pulilic, by separating corn completely from the 
straw, the introduction of fanners, or the macliine 
by which corn is cleaned from cliaff, and all sorts 
'of offal, may, with justice, be considered as pro- 
portionally of equal benefit to the practical agri- 
culturist. 

Since thrashing machines were introduced, fan- 
ners almost in every case are annexed to them, and 
in some instances, where powerful machines are 
used, fitted internally with suitable riddles, it is 
perfectly practicable to measure and market the 
grain immediately as it comes from the machine. 

JManures. 
• Tiie term manure is applied indiscriminately to 
all substances, whicli are known from experience 
either to enrich the different soils, or contribute 
m any oilier way to render them more favourable 
to vegetation. 

In an agricultural point of view, the subject of 
manures is of the first magnitude. To correct 
what is hurtful to vegetation in the different soils, 
and to restore what is lost by exhausting crops, 
are operations in agriculture which may be com- 
pared to the curing of diseases in tlie animal body, 
or supplying the waste occasioned by labour. 
To manage dung upon light la7ids. 
For soils of this description, wiiere turnips are 
t^ken as a first crop, dung can hardly be too well 
prepared; because the nature of the crop, to which 
it is applied, renders a complete incorporation 
villi the ground absolutely necessary; witiiout 
which the young plants mighUbe starved at their 
verv entrance into life. In the best farmed En- 
glish counties, dung is often kept more than a year, 
in order that it may be perfectly rotted. 

lu general there is not much difficulty in prepar- 
iu"-duug upon turnip farms; because, in the driest 
season, "from the nature of the food used, such a 
quantity of liquid passes from the animals, as to 
prevent burning, provincially fire-fanging, t!ie 
greatest obstacle to the rotting of dung that can be 
experienced. If turnip dung is regularly removed, 
if it is properly mixed with the liorse litter, and 
other excrementitious matter accumulated upon 
tlie farm, it will be found an easy task to prepare 
idl that is made by the middle of April, at which 
time tlie fold-yard should be cleared. Wiiat is 
;jroduced after'lhat time should be stored up sepa- 
rately, receive waterings if the weather is dry, and 
je reserved for clover-stubbles, or other fields that 
ire to be duviged in autumn. 

The middle of April is a good time for clearing 
he fold-yard; but this does not prevent the work 
Vnm going partially forward through the wiater, 
;*hen suuable opportunities occur* 



When driven out of the fold-yard, the dung 
should be laid ilp in a regular heap or pile, not 
exceeding six quarters, or four feet and a half ia 
height; and care should be taken not to put either 
horse or cart upon it, which is easily avoided by 
backing the cart to the pile, and laying the dung 
compactly together with a grape or fork. It is 
also useful to face up tiie extremities with earth, 
which keeps in the moisture, and prevents the sua 
and %yind from doing injury. Perhaps a small 
quantity of earth strewed upon the top might also 
prove useful. Dung, when managed in this man- 
ner, generally ferments very rapidly; but if it is 
discovered to be in a backward state, a complete 
turn over, about the 1st of May, when tiie weather 
becomes warm, will quicken the process; and the 
better it is shaken asunder, the sooner will the ob- 
ject in view be accomplisiied. 

A secluded spot of ground, not much exposed to 
wind, and perfectly secure from being floated with 
water, ought always to be chosen for the site of 
such piles or heaps. If the field to which it is to 
be applied is at hand, a little af\er-ti-ouble may be 
saved by depositing it there in the first instance. 
But it is found most convenient to reserve a piece of 
ground adjacent to the homestead for this purpose. 
There it is always under tiie farmer's eye, and a 
greater quantity can be moved in a sliorter time 
than when the situation is more distant. Besides, 
in wet weather (and this is generally the time cho- 
sen for such an operation), the roads are not only 
cut up by driving to a distance, but the field on 
which the heap is made, may be poached and in- 
jured considerably. 

Upon heavy lands. 

Upon clay soils, where wheat forms a principal 
part of the crop, where great quantities of beans are 
cultivated, and few turnips sown, unless for the use 
of milch cows, the rotting of dung \z not only a 
troublesome but an expensive affair. Independent 
of what is consumed by the ordinary farm stock, 
the overplus of the straw must, somehow or other, 
be rotted, by lean cattle kept in tiie fold-yard, who 
either receive the straw in racks, or have it thrown 
across tlie yard, to be eaten and trodden down by 
them. According to this mode of consumption, it 
is evident that a still greater necessity arises for a 
frequent removal of this unmade dung; otherwise, 
from the trampling of beasts, and the usual want of 
moisture, it would compress so much as altogether 
to prevent putrefaction. To prepare dung suffi- 
ciently upon tarras of this description, is at all 
times an arduous task, but scarcely practicable in 
dry seasons; for if it once gets burnt (fire-fanged), 
it is almost physically impossible to bring it into a 
suitable state of prepai-ation afterwards; and, at all 
events, its virtues are thereby considerably dimin- 
ished. 

Straw flung out in considerable portions to the 
fold-yard, after being compressed by the trampling 
of cattle, becomes rather like a well-packed stack, 
than a mass of dung in a preparatory state. The 
small quantity of water and dung made by the ani- 
mals is barely sufficient to cause a slight fermenta- 
tion; and this slight fermentation, when the heap 
gets into a compressed state, is sure to bring on 
fire-fang, as already said, after which, its original 
powei's can rarely be restored. To prevent such 
an injury, no measure can be so successfully used, 
as a frequent removal of this nnmade dung, espe- 
cially if the weather is wet at the time. If peojile 
can stand out to work, there cannot be too much 
wetness while executing this operation; for there 
is always such a quantity of tiie straw that has not 
passed through tlie entrails of tlie cattle, as renders 
it almost impossible to do injuiy, in the first in- 
stance, by an excess of moisture. 

2 ii 8 



318 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



It IS therefore recommended, upon everj' clay- 
land farm, esnecially those of considerable si/.e, 
that the fold-yard be frequently cleared; and that 
the -reatest care be taken to mix the stable or 
l.orse-(hinK i" a regular way with what is gathered 
in the fold-vard, or made by other animals, iii 
order lliat a' gradual heat or fermentation may be 
speedily produced. "Where the materials are ot 
tlie sorts now described, (that is, a small quantity 
of dun", or excrementitious matter, and a large 
store of unrolten straw, only partially moistened), 
no damage can ensue from putting horses and carls 
upon the heap; nay, a positive benefit will be gam- 
ed from this slight compression. 

The heap or pile, in the case of turnip dung, 
should be formed in a secluded spot, if such can be 
i:ot at hand; because the less it is exposed to the 
influence of the sun and wind, so much faster will 
fermentation proceed. It should be constructed on 
a broad basis, which lessens the bounds of the ex- 
U-emiltes; and separate heaps are necessary, so that 
too much may not be deposited at once. 13y shift- 
ing the scene frequently, and allowing each cover- 
ing or coat to settle and ferment, before laying on 
any more, the most happy eftects will follow, and 
these heaps (at least all such as are completed he- 
lore the first of May), may reasonably be expected 
to be in a fit condition for applying to the summer 
fallow fields, in the end of July, or first of August. 
If the external parts get dry at any time during the 
process, it will be proper to water them thorough- 
ly, and in many cases to turn over the heap com- 
pletely. It may be added, that much benefit has 
been experienced from laying a thick coating of 
snow upon such heaps, as, 'by the gradual melting 
thereof, the whole moisture is absorbed, and a 
strong fermentation immediately follows. 

Upon large farms, where the management of 
manure is supiciently understood and practised, it 
is an important matter to have dunghills of all 
ages, and ready for use whenever the situation of 
a'field calls for a restorative. No method of ap- 
plication to clay soils, however, is so beneficial as 
during the year of summer fallow, though in such 
situations, u greater stock of manure is often ga- 
thered tlian is required for the fields under this 
process. 

As to the proper quantity of dung to be used, 
no greater quantity ought to be given at one time 
thau is sufficient to fructify the ground; in other 
■words, to render it capable of producing good 
crops, before the time arrives wheu a fresh dose 
can be administered. 

The spreading of dung. 
The increased attention now bestowed, in all the 
cultivated districts, to the spreading of dung, ori- 
ginated from the measure of limiting the quantity 
a;)plied. When 40, 5U, nay even 60 double load's 
were applied to an acre, it was not veiy difficult 
to cover its surface, even with au imperfect sepa- 
ration, though it certainly was impracticable to 
bury tiie big lumps with a furrow of ordinary size; 
but when the quantity was brought down to 18 and 
20 loads, and, more so, when 13 or 14 loads were 
thought sufficient, a different conduct became ab- 
solutely necessary. Another improvement also 
followed, viz. spreading dung when raw or green, 
that is, in.mediately after the carts; in which way, 
at least during summer, it will be separated at one 
lialf the expense, and to much better purpose, than 
when it is suffered to lay in the heap for a day or 
two. In short, it is a sure mark of a slovenly far- 
mer, to see dung remain unspread in a field, un- 
less it be iuthe winter months, when u may hap- 
pen that hands cannot be got for carrying on such 
operations with the usual regularity. At that time 
liie injury sustained by losing a few days is not 



great, though as a general rule itwill be found that 
the expense is always smallest when the carts are 
regularly followed up. 

.ipplication of dung to turnips. 

When turnip husbandly forms the chief branch 
of fallow process, dung i's naturally of a superior 
([uality, and requires little artificial management 
for bringing it to a proper state of preparation. 1q 
the greatest part of Scotland, and even in England, 
where the drill and horse-lioeing system is prac- 
tised, the common, and undoubtedly the most ap- 
proved, way of applying dung to turnips, is by lay- 
ing it in the intervals of the drills or small ridges, 
which are previously made up by a bmtt, or two 
furrows of the plough. These drills or ridges are 
formed at a distance of from 24 to 30 inches from 
the centre of each; and by driving the horses and 
cart along the middle one of the space intended to be 
manured, the dung is drawn out either by the car- 
ter, or by another man specially appointed for thai 
purpose, in such proportions as the poverty of the 
soil, or the disposition of the occupier, may reckou- 
necessary. If the breadth of three drills are only 
taken at a time, the dung stands a better chance 
of being regularly administered; for it often hap- 
pens, tliat when a greater number are included in 
one space, the two outside drills receive a less 
quantity than the intervening ones. Those, there- 
fore, who limit themselves to three drills, gene- 
rally divide the spreaders; as it requires six hands, 
women or boys, to follow up what is usually called 
a head of carts, the number of carts to a head being 
regulated by the distance of the dung-hill, or the 
kind of road over which it is to be carried. 

The quantity of dung usually given for turnips 
is from 12 to 15 double cart loads, of one and a 
half cubic yards each, to a Scots acre. In some 
cases only 10 loads are given: but the land ought to 
be in high condition^ where such a small quantity 
is bestowed. In fact, no soil can be made too 
rich for turnips or other green crops, peas except- 
ed; but the object to be attended to in this, and 
every other case, is an allotment of the manure 
collected upon the premises, in such a way as that 
the greatest possible return over the whole farm, 
not from a particular field, may be gained by the 
occupier. 

Application of dung to potatoes. 

The culture is in several respects similar to that 
of turnips, but in others it differs materially. Po- 
tatoes are planted earlier in the season than tur- 
nips: the ground rarely receives so much work; 
the soils upon which they are cultivated are more 
variable; and the dung considered to be most suit- 
able for promoting their growth, does not require 
such high preparation. Many farmers, notwith- 
standing these circumstances, follow out the same 
process as described under the head of turnips. 
After the ground receives three, or at most four 
ploughings, the drills are made up, dung deposit- 
ed in the intervals, the seed planted above the 
dung, and the drills reversed; after which, say at 
the distance of 2 or 3 weeks, a slight harrowing is 
given. They avoid making up drills, but dung the 
ground in what may be called the broad-cast way; 
and, entering the plough, plant the seed in every 
third furrow, into which only the dung is raked; 
and so on till the whole is finished. Before the 
young plants appear, or even after they are above 
the surface, a complete harrowing is given, which is 
considered as equal to a hand-hoeing; and from the 
dung being completely covered, scarce any of it is 
dragged up, while the seed, being undermost, 
none of it is disturbed by the operation. Several 
farmers do not dung their potatoe fields; but, re- 
serving the manure till the crop is removed, find 
the remainder of the relation greatly benefited. Po 



HUSBANDRY. 



319 



tatoes scourge severely, and, in general cases, re- 
quire a larger quantity of dung tlian turnips; but, 
as the extent of land under this culture is not great 
in common farming, few people grudge this extra 
quantity, because, except in a few favoured situa- 
tions, a good crop cannot otherwise be reasonably 
expected. 

To manure clayey soils. 

Upon all soils incumbent on a wet or close bot- 
tom, whether characterized as clay, loam, or moor, 
it may be laid down as a primary principle, that 
dung cannot be so profitably applied, as while the 
ground is under the process of summer fallow. 

When the ground is under the process of sum- 
mer fallow, it is then the best and most appropri- 
ate time for applying manure to clay soils. When 
under this process, the soil, comparatively speak- 
ing, is reduced into minute particles, whicii aftbrds 
an opportunit)' of conveying the virtues of. manure 
through the veins or pores of all its parts. The 
soil, at that time, is also freed from its aboriginal 
inhabitants, quickens and other root we«ds, who 
claim a preferable right of support; hence the ai-ti- 
ficial plants, afterwards cultivated, possess, with- 
out a rival, such supplies as have been granted, 
•without any deduction whatever. In short, with- 
out laying any stress upon elementary eifects dur- 
ing the process, it does not admit of a doubt, that 
the same quantity of manure, bestowed upon the 
ground when summer fallowed, will produce 
a greater return to the occupier, than if it had been 
applied at any other stage of the rotation. 

Dung should not be laid upn fallows before they 
are completely cleaned: though, no doubt, in wet 
summers, that operation is not easily accomplished. 

To make sure work, the fallows, if possible 
should be early stirred, and no opjiortunity slipped 
of putting them forward with the utmost expedi- 
tion; for it rarelj' happens, that much good can be 
<Ione towards the destruction of root-weeds after 
the month of July. Before that time a judicious 
farmer will have his fallow dressed up, and in a 
suitable state for receiving dung. It should be well 
harrowed, if the weather is ifavourable, previous 
to the dung being laid on; and if rolled, or made 
smooth, the spreaders will be enabled to perform 
their task with much more precision. 

At the proper season every other operation ought 
to be laid aside, so that dung may be expeditiously 
drove out. To do it in wet weather is attended with 
pernicious effects; the horses are oppressed, a long- 
er time is required, the land is ])oached, and in 
some measure deprived of all benefit from the pre- 
vious fallow. These circumstances will be reflect- 
ed upon by the attentive farmer; they will stimu- 
late him not to lose a moment when the weather is 
favourable, and prevent him from forcing on the 
work, when injury, rather than benefit, may be 
expected. After all, seasons are sometimes so 
perverse; as to render every rule nugatoiy. These 
must, however, be taken as they come; avoiding at 
such times to break the land down, acclivating the 
ridges sufficiently, and keeping the water-furrows 
completely clear. 

Quantity of dung for falloivs. 

The quantity of dung usually applied to fallows 
in ordinary condition is from fourteen to twenty 
double loads per acre; though often good crops are 
reaped when twelve loads only had been given. 
Much, however, depends upon the condition of 
the land, upon the quality of the dung, and tl»e way 
in wliich the carts are loaded. A decent load may 
contain one cubic yard and three-fourths, and 
weigh a ton, or thereabout. It also deserves no- 
tice, that less dung will serve some lands than 
others, especially if they have lately been plough- 
ed from frass; but, at all events, sixteen such loads, 



as are mentioned, will answer for any sort of soil^ 
unless it has been previously quite wrought out. 
Even if it were in this forlorn slate, it is better 
management to dung upon the stubble of the first 
crop, than to give an over-dose when under sum- 
mer fallow. 

Time of spreading the dung. 

All dung laid upon summer fallow ought to be 
spread the moment it is pulled out of the cart. It 
can at no other time be done so well, or so clieap; 
though on many farms, small ones especially, where 
a full supply of hands are wanting, this bene- 
ficial practice is much neglected. Four spreaders, 
boys or girls, with an attentive oversman to follow- 
up and supjdy any omissions, are sufficient for one 
head of carts; the number included in a head being 
regulated by the distance of the field from the dung- 
hill. Some farmers employ a person, on whom 
they can depend, to draw tlie dung from the cart, 
who has judgment to proportion it according to 
circumstances, and is responsible for any failure in 
the execution: but the carter is the person usually 
employed, thougli, unless a boy is given him to 
drive, a regular distril)ution can hardly be expect- 
ed. To insure accuracy in laying down, fields are 
sometimes thrown into a dam-broad figure; and, a 
heap being drawn out into each square, vou could 
have nearly ascertained the quantity required for 
the whole. The great object, after a regular and 
economical distribution, is to shake and part the 
whole completely; as, by minute attention to this 
circumstance, a much greater etfect is necessarily 
produced. 

Intermediate dunging. 

After the fallows are dunged, the remainder in 
hand is reserved for what may be called I'he inter- 
mediate dunging, generally bestowed eitlier upon 
clover stubbles, upon wheat stubbles, previously to 
taking beans, or upon bean stubbles before the seed 
furrow is given for wheat. It is obvious, that the 
farmer must be regulated, in this intermediate 
dunging, by the weather at the time, though it 
rarely happens but that dung may be got out upon 
clover stubbles at one time of the winter or other. 
When applied to beans, a beneficial practice, the 
dung, as we said above, is by some people laid upon 
the wheat stubble, and ploughed down before win- 
ter; hence it is in full action in the spring, when 
the seed furrow is given. Others make up drills 
at seed time, depositing the dung in the intervals, 
as for turnips or potatoes; but it seldom occurs that 
weather can then be got, at least on real bean soils, 
for executing this management. 

Many arable farms, under the strictest economy, 
are unable to furnish supplies for an intermediate 
dunging, at least to its full extent: but persons so 
circumstanced have it always in tlieir power to 
overcome this defect, and i)reserve a regular rota- 
tion, by keeping certain fields longer in grass, 
which of course will yield weightier crops when 
broken up, and stand less in need of manure during 
the after rotation. As, for insta-nce, in a rotation 
of six, and it is here that the greatest short-coming 
is felt, gi-ass seeds to a certain extent, say a halt, 
may be thi-owu in with the crop of wheat taken 
after fallow, which is the second year of the rota- 
tion; this part may be pastured for three years, and 
broken up in the sixth for oats, which concludes the 
course. Again in a rotation of eight, grass seeds, 
in like manner, may be sown with a (nirt of the 
fallow wheat, which part can be pastured for three 
years, then broken up for oats, succeeded by beans 
and wheat. By sucii arrangements, made accord- 
ing to circumstances. It is an easy matter to pre' 
serve a regular rotation, and to proportion the cor-f 
crops, to the Quantity of manure collected upon 
the premises. 



320 



UNIVERSAL RECEH^T BOOR. 



To increase the qimntlty of dung- by soihng. 

The practice of soiling, or tecclins; horses or cat- 
Ue ill the house or f;irm-yar(l, is eminently calcu- 
lated to inci'ease the <iuantity of manure upon every 
larm, and to improve its (lualily. ^ 

'riie soiling of horses, in tlie summer months, 
on "-reen clover and rye-grass, is a practice which 
prevails in evcrv corn' district, where farm labour 
IS regularly executed. The* utility of the prac- 
tice d'ties not need tlie support of argument; for it 
is not only economical to the farmer, l)ut saves 
much fatigue to the i)Oor animal: besides, the 
quantity of dung thereby gathered is considerable. 

Oxfii and cows, of all sorts, might be supporttul 
and fed in like manner, during tiie wliole of tlie 
grass season. It is well known that milch-cows 
have, in several instances, been so kept; but it lias 
rarely happened, that other descriptions of cattle 
have been fed for tlie butcher according to this 
mode, though it is perfectly practicable. 

The chief benefit of soiling may be considered as 
arising from the immense jjuautity of line dung 
.which woubl thus be accumulated, and wiiich can 
be returned to the ground in the succeeding sea- 
son, after being properly fermented and prepared. 
In all corn-farms, at least those of clayey soils, it is 
a work of great difficulty to rot the straw produced 
upon it; aiid much of it is misapplied, in conse- 
quence of such soils being naturally unfit for rais- 
ing green winter-crops. 

If a numerous stock of cattle •n'ere kept either in 
the house, or in sepai-ate divisions of the fold-yard, 
all the straw threshed in tiie summer months might 
he immediately converted into dung, the quality of 
which would be equal, if not superior, to what is 
made from turnips coflsumed at the stake. 

Dung is the mother of gjood crops; and it appears 
that no plan can i)e devised by which a large quan- 
tity can be so easily and cheaply gathered, of by 
wliich straw can be so eftectuaily rotted and ren- 
dered beneficial to the occupier 'of a clay-land farm, 
as the soiling of grass in the suniraer season. In 
a word, the dung of animals fed upon green clover, 
may justly be reckoned tiie ricliest of all dang. It 
mav, from the circumstances of the season, be ra- 
pidly prepared, and may be applied to the ground 
at a very early period, much earlier than any other 
sort of dung can be used with advantage. 
To make composts. 

The use of mantirc, in tlie shape of compost, or 
ingredients of various qualities, mixed together in 
certain proportions, has long been a favourite prac- 
tice with many farmers: thougli it is only in par- 
ticular situations that the practice can be exten- 
sively or profitably executed. The ingredients 
wsed in tb.ese com|»osts are chiefly earth and lime: 
sometimes dung, where the earth is poor; but lime 
may be regarded as the main agent of the process, 
acting as a stimulus for bringing the powers of the 
heap into action. Lime, iu this view, may be con- 
sidered as a kind of yeast, operating upon a heap 
of earth as yeast does upon Hour or meal. It is 
obvi^fius, therefore, that unless a sufficient quantity 
is given, the heap may remain unfermented: in 
which case little benefit will be derived fi'om it as 
a manure. 

Tiie best kind of earth for compost is lliat of 
the alluvial sort, which is always of a rich greasy 
substance, often mixed with marl, and in every re- 
Epect calculated to enrich and invigorate barren 
soils, espei-ially if tliey are of a ligiit and open 
texture. Old yards, deep head-lands, and scom-ings 
of ditches, oiler tliemselves as the basis of com- 
])0sl middens; but it is proper to summer fallow 
them before hand, so that they may be entirely free 
«jf weeds. When the lime is mixed with the soil 
of these middens, repeated turnings are necessary, 



that the whole may be suitably fermented; and some 
care is required to appl)' the fermented mass at » 
proper time to the field on which it is to be used. 

The benefit of such a compost in nourishing soils 
is even greater than what is gained by dressing 
them with dung. 

Lord Meado7vhank^s directions for making com- 
post of peat-moss. 

Let the peat moss, of which compost is to be 
formed, be thrown out of the pit for some weeks 
or months, in order to lose its redundant moisture. 
By this means, it is rendered the lighter to carry, 
and less compact and weighty, when made up with 
fresh dung for fermentation; and, accordingly, less' 
dung is required for the purpose, than if the pre- 
paration is made with peat taken recently from the 
pit. The peat taken from near the surface, or at 
a considerable depth, answers equally well. 

Take the p*at moss to a dry spot convenient for 
coiiftructing a dunghill to serve the field to be 
manured. Lay the cart-loads of it in two rows, 
and of the dung in a row betv/ixt them. The dung 
thus lies nearly on an area of tlie future compost 
dunghill, and the rows of peat should be near 
enough each other, that workmen, in making up 
the compost, may be able to throw them together by 
the spade. In making up, let the workmen begin at 
one end; and, at the extremity of the row of dung, 
(which should not extend quite so far .at that end 
as the rows of peats on each side of it do,) let them 
lay a bottom of peat, six inches deep and fifteen 
feet wide, if the grounds admit of it; then throw 
forward, and lay on, about ten inches of peat above 
the bottom of peat; then add from the side rows 
about six inches of peat; then four or five of dung, 
and then six more of peat; then another thin layer 
of dung; and then cover it over with peat at the 
end vdiere it was begun, at the two sides, and 
above. The compost should not he raised above 
four feet, or four ieet and a half high; otherwise it 
is apt to press too heavily on the under parts, and 
check the fermentation. When a beginning is 
thus made, the w-orkmen will proceed working 
backwards, and adding to the columns of compost, 
as tliey are furnished with the three rows of ma- 
terials directed to be laid down for them. They 
must take care not to tread on the compost, or 
render it too compact; and, in proportion as the 
peat is wet, it should be made up in lumps, and 
not much broken. 

In mild weather, seven cart-loads of common 
farm-dung, tolerably fresh made, is sufficient for 
twenty-one cart-loads of peat moss; but in cold 
weather, a larger proportion of dung is desirable. 
To every twenty-eigfit carts of the compost, when 
made up, it is of use to throw on, above it, a cart- 
load of ashes, either made from coal, ])eat, or 
wood; half the quantity of slacked lime, the more 
finel}' powdered the better. 

The compost, after it is made up, gets into a 
general heat, sooner or later, according to the 
weather, and the condition of the dung. In sum- 
mer, in Sn days or sooner; in winter, not perhaps 
for many weeks, if the cold is severe. In the for- 
mer season, a stick should be kept in it in difterent 
parts, to pull out and feel now and then; for, if it 
a[)|)roaclies blood-heat, it should either be watered 
or turned over: and, on such an occasion, advantage 
may be taken to mix with it a little fresh moss. 
The heat sul)sides after a time, and with great va- 
riety, according to the weather, the dung, and the 
l)crfection of the compost; whicii should then ba 
allowed to be untouched, till within three weeks 
of using, when it should be turned over upside 
down, and outside in, and all lumps broken: then 
it comes into a second heat; but soon cools, and 
shculd be takea out for use. la this state Uie 



HLSBAXDRY. 



S21 



whole, except bits of the old decayed wood, ap- 
pears a black free mass, and spreads like garden 
rnould. Use it weight for weight, as farm-yard 
dung; and it will be found, in a course of cropping, 
fully to sland the comparison. 

Feat, nearly as dry as garden-mould in seed- 
time, may be mixed with the dung, so as to double 
the volume and more of it. Workmen must begin 
with using layers^ but, when accustomed to ilie 
just proportions, if they are furnished with peat 
moderately dry, and dung not lost in litter, tbey 
throw it up together as a mixed mass, and make a 
less proportion of dung serve for the preparation. 

The rich coarse eartii, wliicli is frequently found 
on the surface of peat, is too heavy to be admitted 
into this compost; but it makes an excellent top- 
dressing, if previously mixed and turned Over with 
lime. 

J)r Reiinie's method of converting moss into ma- 
nure. 

The importance of moss as a manure is now 
generally admitted by all who have had an oppor- 
tunity of making experiments on that subject. The 
Rev. Dr llennie, of Kilsyth, having proved the 
utility of filtration, has recommended, in private 
letters, to water the collected heap of moss for 
about ten days, once each d.ty, very copiously; and 
wlien that is done, to trim it up to a compact bod)-, 
allow it to dry, and to receive a gentle degree of 
heat. The degree of heat necessary for accom- 
plishing that end, is sufficient, though not disco- 
verable by the hand. If it only afi'-ects the ther- 
mometer a little, it is declared to be a manure. 
The Doctor also declares, that moss can be con- 
verted by filtrating steam through it; and more 
expeditiousl}' still, by exposing it to a running 
stream of water. If the water penetrates the moss, 
it expels its poisonous qualities sooner and more 
effecti'ally than any other mode ever devised. 
When it is sufficiently purified by any of these 
means, it must be laid up to dry, and is in a short 
time ready for applying to the land. 
Use of lime as manure. 

This mineral, alter undergoing the process of 
calcination, has long been applied by British hus- 
bandmen as a stimulus to the soil, and, in conse- 
quence of such an application, luxuriant crops have 
been produced, even upon soils apparently of in- 
ferior quality, and whicii would have yielded crops 
of trifling value, had this auxiliary been withheld. 
In fact, the majority of soils cannot be cultivated 
with advantage till they are dressed with lime; 
and whether this beneficial effect shall be consid- 
ered as an alterative, or as a stimulant, or as a 
manure, it will be found to be the basis of good 
husbandry, and of more use than all other manures 
put together. Wherever lime has been properly 
applied, it has constantly been found to prove as 
much superior to dung, as dung is to the rakings 
of roads, or the produce of peat mire. 

In respect of operation, it is immaterial whetlier 
lime be used upon grass land or summer-fallow. 
Upon old grass land, it is perhaps best to plough 
first, and to summer-fallow in the second year, 
when lime can be applied. On new and clean 
grass land, it may be limed at the outset, that is, 
before the plough is admitted. 

To lime moorish soils is a hazardous business, 
unless dung is likewise bestowed: but to repeat the 
application upon such soils, especially if they have 
been severely cropped, is almost a certain loss; a 
compost of lime and rich earth is, in such cases, 
the only substitute. 

Strong loams and clays require a full dose to 
bring them into action; such soils being capable 
of absorbing a greater quantity of calcareous mat- 
ter. Lighter soils, however, require less lime to 



stimulate them, and may be injured by adminis- 
tering a quantity that would prove moderately 
beneficial to those of a heavy nature. 

Upon fresh land, or land in a proper state for a 
calcareous application, lime is much superior to 
dung. Its effects continue for a longer period; while 
the crops produced are of a superior kind, and 
less susceptible of injury from the excesses ot 
drought and moisture. Finally, the ground, par- 
ticularly what is of a strong nature, is much easier 
wrought; and, in man)' instances, the saving of 
labour would almost tempt a judicious farmer to 
lime his land, were no greater benefit derived from 
the application than the opportunity thereby gained 
of working it in a perfect manner. 

It may be added, that though strong soils require 
to be animated with a strong dose of lime, those 
of a light texture will do well with little more than 
half the quantity requisite on the others, especially 
if tbey are fresh, or have not already received an 
application of- calcareous matter. 

Jlpplication of marl. 
In many parts of this island, the value of land 
has been much augmented by the application of 
marl. Treating of this article in a practical way, 
it may be divided into shell-marl and earth-marl. 
Shell-marl is composed of animal shells dissolved; 
earth-marl is a fossil. The colour of the latter 13 
various; its hardness being sometimes soft and duc- 
tile, like clay; sometimes hard and solid, like stone; 
and sometimes it is extended into thin beds, like 
slate. Shell-marl is easily distinguished by the 
shells, which always appear in it: but the similarity 
betwixt earth-marl and many other fossil sub- 
stances, renders it dFfficult to distinguish them. 

Shell-marl is very different in its nature from ^ 
clayey and stone marls, and from its effects upon 
the soil, is commonly classed among the animal 
manures: it does not dissolve with water as the 
other marls do. It sucks it up, and swells with it 
like a sponge, Dr Home says, that it takes six 
times more of acids to saturate it, than any of the 
other marls which he had met with. But the great- 
est difference betwixt the shell-marl and the other 
marls consists in this, the shell-marl contains oils. 
It is uncertain if the other marls contain any oils; 
but this kind contains them in great plenty. 

This marl, it would seem from the qualities 
which it possesses, promotes vegetation in all the 
different ways. It increases the food of plants; it 
communicates to the soil a power of attracting this 
food from the air; it enlarges the pasture of plants; 
and it prepares the vegetable food for entering 
their roots. 

Shelly sand. 
The shelly sand, often found deposited in beds 
in the crevices and level parts of the sea-coasts, i» 
another substance capable of being employed, botli 
as a manure and stimulant, not only on account of 
its containing calcareous matter, in greater or less 
proportions, but also from the mixture of animal 
and vegetable substances that are found in it. The 
portion of calcareous matter contained in these 
substances must vary according to circumstances; 
but, when the quantity is any way large, and in a 
reduced or attenuated state, the quality is so much, 
the more valuable. On that account the quantity 
which ought to be applied to the soil, must be re- 
gulated by the extent of calcareous matter, sup- 
posed, or found, upon trial, to be contained in the 
article. 

Clayey and stone marls. 
The clayey and stone marls are distinguished by 
their colours, viz. white, black, blue, and red. 
The white, being of a soft crumbly nature, is con- 
sidered to be the best for pasture land; and the 
blue, which is more compact and firm, for corn 



322 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



land. In the districts M-here marl is much used, 
these distinctions of management are attended to, 
though eitiier oftiie kinds may be wiployed witli 
advantage, if the following rules arc adhered to: 

If marl is of tiie blue kind, or ot any kmd that 
is compact or firm, lay it upon the land early in the 
season, so as the weather may mellow it down he- 
fore the last plough: and, if on pasture land, let it 
also be early laid on, and spread very thin, break- 
ing any lumps afterwards which are not complete- 
ly separated by the first spreading. If marl is of 
the white, or any of the loose or crumbling sorts, 
it need not belaid on so early; because tliese va- 
rieties break and dissolve almost as soon as ex- 
posed to the weather. 

Alga marina, or sea--weeil. 

Sea-weed, a plant that grows upon rocks within 
the sea, is driven ashore after storms, and is found 
to be an excellent article for manuring light and 
dry soils, though of little advantage to those of a 
clayey descript'ion. Tliis article may be applied 
on the proper soil with advantage to any crop, and 
its effects are immediate, though rarely of long 
continuance. As the coast side lands of the island 
are, in every case, of superior fertility to those tliat 
are inland, we may attribute this superior fertility 
to the great quantity of manure found upon their 
shores, after every storm or high tide, whereby the 
resources of the ocean are in a manner brought for- 
ward for the enrichment of the lands locally situ- 
ated for participating in such benelits. 'I'lie ut- 
most attention has long been paid to tlie gathering 
and laying on of this valuable manure; aiid, from 
the extensive line of British shores, both of tlie 
main sea and of the nufmerous estuaries which in- 
dent, and as it were divide tiie main land, an im- 
mense (juantity of sea-weed must annually be col- 
lected from them. 

Application of sea-weed. 

Sea-weed is applied at all seasons to the surface, 
and sometimes, though not so profitably, it is mix- 
ed with untrodden dung, that the process of putre- 
faction may be hastened. Generally speaking, it 
is at once applied to the soil, which saves labour, 
and pi-events that degree of waste which otherwise 
■would necessarily happen. Sea-weed is, in one 
i'esi)ect, preferable to the ricliest dung; because it 
does not produce such a quantity of weeds. Tlie 
salts contained in sea-weed, and applied with it, is 
the real cause of the after-cleanliness. This may 
be inferred from the general state of coast-side 
lands, where sea-weed is used. These lands are 
almost constantly kept in tillage, and yet are 
cleaner and freer from weeds than those in the inland 
situations, where corn crops are not so often taken. 

When a coast-side farm contains mixed soils, 
the best management is exercised, by applying sea- 
■weed to dry, and dung to clay-land. In this way, 
me full advantage of manure may be obtained, and a 
farm so circumstanced is of infinitely greater va- 
lue, with respect to manuring and labouring, than 
one which contains no such variety. 
Burning the surface. 

The practice of burning the surface, and apply- 
ing the ashes as manm-e to the soil that remains, 
has been long prevalent in Britain; and is consi- 
dered as the most advantageous wav of bringing in 
and improving ail soils, where the "surface carried 
a coarse sward, and was composed of peat-earih, 
or other inactive substances. The burning of this 
surface has been viewed as the best wav of bring- 
ing such soils into action; the ashes, furnished by 
the burning, serving as a stimulant to raise up 
their dormant powers, thereby rendering them fer- 
tile and productive in a superior degree than could 
otherwise be accomplished. 



Jllr Cuiioen''s method of bummg surface soil ana 
clay. 

Mounds of seven yards in length, and three and'- 
a half in breadth, are kindled wiih7'2 Winchester 
busiiels of lime. First, a layer of dry sods or 
parings, on which a quantity of lime is spread, 
mixing sods with it, then a covering of 8 inches of 
soils, on which the other half of the lime is spread, 
and covered a foot thick; the height of the mound 
being about a yard. i 

In 24 Imursit will take fire. Tlie lime should 
be immediately from tlie kiln. It is better to suf- 
fer it to ignite itself, than to effect it by the opera- 
tion of water. M'hcu the fire is fairly kindled, 
fresh sods milt be applied. I should recommend 
obtaining a sufficient body of ashes before any clay 
was put on the mounds. The fire naturally rises 
to the top. It takes less time, and does more 
work, to draw down the ashes from the top, and 
not to suffer it to rise above six feet. The former 
))ractice of burning in kilns was more expensive; 
did much less work; and, in many instances, cal- 
cined the ashes. 

1 think it may fairly be supposed tliat the lime 
ailds full its worth to the quality of the ashes. 
Where limestone can be had, I should advise the 
burning a small quantity in the mounds, which 
would be a great improvement to the ashes, and, at 
the same time, help to keep the fire in. 

The general adopting of the system of surface and 
soil clay-burning, is likely to be the most important 
discoveiy for the interests of agriculture, that has 
occurred since the introduction of the turnip into 
Norfolk, by Lord Townshend. 

To burn moss ivith the ashes. 

The following directions for burning moss along 
with the ashes are of considerable importance: 
Begin the fire with dry faggots, furze, or straw, 
then put on drieil moss finely minced and well 
beaten with a clapper; and when that is nearly 
burnt down, put on moss lessdiy, but well minced 
and clapped, making holes with a [irong to carry 
on the fire, and so ailding more moss till a hill of 
ashes, something of the size of a wagoo load, is 
accumulated, which, when cold, carry to the bins, 
or store heaps, before the ashes get wet. 

JMr lioscoe's method of improving moss land. 

The best method of improving moss land, is by 
the application of a calcareous substance in u suffi- 
cient quantity to convert the moss into a soil, and 
by the occasional use of animal or other extraneous 
manures, such as the course of cultivation, and the 
nature of the crops may be found to require. 

After setting fire to the heap and herbage on the 
moss, and ploughing it down as fiir as practicable, 
Mr Iloscoe ploughs a tiiin sod or furrow with a 
very sharp horse-plough, which he burns in small 
heaps and dissipates; considering it of little use 
but to destroy the tough woods of the ediophorus, 
nardus stricta, and other plants, whose matted 
roots are almost imperishable. The moss being 
thus brought to a tolerable dry and level substance, 
then plough it in a regul.ar furrow six inches deep: 
and as soon as possible after it is turned up, set 
upon it the necessary quantity of marl, not less thaa 
two hundred cubic yards to the acre. As the marl 
begins to crumble and fall with the sun or frost, it 
is spread over the land with considerable exact- 
ness; after which, put in a crop as early as possible, 
sometimes by the plough, and at others with the 
horse-scuffle, or scarifier, according to the nature 
of the crop; a quantity of manure, setling on about 
20 tons to the acre. Moss land, thus treated, may 
not only be advantageously cropped tlie first year 
with green crops, as potatoes, turnips, &c. but 
with any kind of grain. 



HUSBANDRY. 



323 



Peat ami peat ashes used as manure. 

In the county of Bedford, peat asiies Hi-e sold as 
manure, and are used as a top dressing for clovers, 
and sometimes for barley, at the rate of from 40 
to 60 Winchester bushels per acre. They are 
usually spread, during the month of March, on 
clover; and on the surface of the barley-lands after 
the seed is sown. Peat ashes are also admirably 
useful as manure for turnips, and are easily drilled 
Willi or over the seed, by means of a drill-box, 
connected with a loaded cart. 

After the quantity required has been cast, a por- 
tion sufficient to kindle a larp;e heap, (suppose two 
cart-loads,) is dried as mucii ns if intended for 
winter's use. A conical pile is tiien built and 
fired; and as soon as tlie flame or smoke makes its 
appearance at any of the crevices, it is kept back 
by fresh peat, just sufficiently dry to be fi-ee from 
waller: and tiius the ))ile is continually increased, 
until it has burnt thirty or forty loads, or as much 
more as may be required. The slower the pro- 
cess the better; but, in case of loo languid a con- 
■sumption, the heap should be stirred by h stick, 
whenever the danger of extinction seems proliable. 

In case of rain, the workmen should be prepared 
■with some coarse tiiick turf, with which to cover 
the surface of the cone. 

Coal ashes used as manure. 

Coal ashes may likewise be made a most useful 
article of manure, by mixing with every cart-load 
o€ them one bushel of lime in its hottest state, 
covering it up in tlie middle of the heap for about 
12 hours, till tlie lime be entirely slaked, and in- 
corporating them well together; and, by tiU'ning 
the whole over two ortiiree times, the cinders, or 
half-bui'nt parts of the coal, will be reduced to as fine 
a i)0wder as tlie lime itself. The coal-ashes should, 
however, be carefully kept dry: this mixture will 
be found one of the best improvers of' moorisii 
and bentv land. 

JMitJiod of binmin^ lime toithout kilns. 

The practice of lime-burners in Whales has for- 
merly l)een to burn lime in broad siialiow kilns, 
but lately they have began to manufacture that ar- 
ticle without any kiln at all. 

They place tlie lime stone in large bodies, which 
are called coaks, the stones not being broken small, 
as in the qrdinarv method, and calcine these heaps 
in the \vay used for preparing charcoal. To pre- 
vent the rtame from bursting out at the top and 
sUles of these heaps, turfs and earth are pj^iced 
against them, and tlie aperture partially closed; 
and the heat is regulated and transfused through 
the whole mass, that, notwitiista'ndingthe increased 
size of the stones, the whole becomes thoroughly 
calcined. As a proof of the superior advantage 
that lime burnt in these clamps or coaks has over 
lime burnt in the old method, where farmers have 
an option of taking either lime at the same price, 
a preference is invariably given to that burned in 
lie;;ps. This practice has long prevailed in Yorkshire 
and Shropshire, and is also familiar in Scotland. 

JMr Craig's improved method of burning clay. 
?tlake an oblong enclosure, of the dimensions 
of a small house — say 15 feet by 10 — of green 
turf-seeds, raised to the height of 3^ or 4 feet. In 
the inside of this enclosure air-pipes are drawn 
diagonally, which comn:iunicate with holes left at 
each corner of the exterior wall. These pipes are 
fjrmed of sods put on edge, and the space between 
so wide only as another sod can easily cover. In 
each of the four spaces left between the air-pipes 
an'd the outer-wall, a fire is kindled with wood and 
dry turf, and then the whole of the inside of the 
enclosure or kiln filled with dry turf, which is 
Tory soon on fire; and, on the top of that, when 
veil kindled, is thrown .on the clay, in small qu.in- 



tities at a time, and repeated as often as necessary, 
which must be regulated by the intensity of the 
burning. The air-pipes are of use only at first, 
because if the fire burns w ith tolerable keenness, 
the sods forming the pipes will soon be reduced to 
ashes. The pipe on the weather side of the kila 
only is left open, the mouths of the other three 
being stopped up, and not opened except the wind 
should veer about. As the inside of the enclosure 
or kiln begins to be filled up with clay, the outer 
wall must be raised in height, at least 15 inches 
higher than the top of the clay, for the purpose of 
keeping the wind from acting on the fire. When 
the fire burns through the outer wall, whicn it 
often does, and particularly when the top is ovei* 
loaded with clay, the breach must be stopped up 
immediately, which can only be efleclually done 
by building another sod wall from the foundation 
opposite to it, and the sods tiiat formed that part 
of the first wall are snon reduced to ashes. The 
wall can be raised as higli as may be convenient 
to throw on the clay, and tlie kihi may be increased 
to any size by forming a new wall when the pre- 
vious one is burnt through. 

The p'-iiicipal art in burning consists in having 
the outer wall made quite close and imjiervious to 
the external air, and taking care to have the top 
always lightly, but completely covered with clay; 
because if the external air should come in contact- 
with the fire, either on the top of the kiln, or by 
means of its bursting through the si»les, the fire 
will beverjf soon extinguished. In short, tlie kilns 
require to be well attended, nearly as closely as 
charcoal-pits. Clay is much easier burnt than 
j either moss or loam; — it does not undergo any 
alteration in its shape, and on that account allows 
the fire and smoke to get up easily between the 
lumps; — whereas moss and loam, by crumbling 
down, are very ajjtto smother the fire, unless care- 
fully attended to. No rule can be laid down for 
regulating the size of the lumps of clay thrown ou 
the kiln, as that must depend on the state of the 
fire. After a kiln is fairly set going, no coal or 
wood, or ail)' sort of comliuslible, is necessary, the 
wet clay burning of itself, and it can only be ex- 
tinguished by intention, or the carelessness of the 
ojierator, the vicissitudes of the weather having 
hardly any eftect on the fires, if properl}' attended 
to. When the kiln is burning with great keenness, 
a stranger to the operation may be apt to think that 
the fire is extinguished: If, therefore, any person, 
either through impatience, or too great curiosity, 
should insist on looking into the interior of the 
kiln, he will certainly retard and may possibly ex- 
tinguish the fire; — the chief secret consisting, as 
before-mentione([, in keeping out the external air. 

The above method of burning clay may be con- 
sidered as an essential service rendered to agricul- 
ture; as it shews farmers how to convert, at a 
moderate expense, the most worthless barren sub- 
soil into excellent manure. 

To decompose greeen vegetables for manure. 

The following process fur the decomposition of 
green vegetables, for manure, has been practised 
with great success in the counties of Norfolk and 
SuflTolk:— 

riace a layer of vegetable matter a foot thick, 
then a thin layer of lime, alternately; in a few- 
hours the decomposition will begin, and, unless 
prevented by sods, or a forkful of vegetables, will 
break out into a blaze; this must be guarded 
against; in 24 hours the process will be completed. 
Weeds of every description will answer for vege- 
tables; two pounds' worth of lime will produce 
manure for four acres. Use the vegetables as soorx 
after cutting as jiossible, and the lime fresh from 
the kiln, as distance w ill allow. 



324 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



Bone manure. 

\t Hull thnrc is a mill constructed for tiie pur- 
pose of Irt-uisiii- (not pounding) bones; and the 
tlust riddled therefrom is reclconed a still stronger 
manure. The same person selects the best hones, 
•vvhii'h are sawn into pieces, for button-moulds and 
knife-handles: and the saw-dust from this operation 
is particularly useful in gardens and hot beds. It 
suits every vegetable, hot-house, or green-house 
iilr.nt. 

I3one manure is most used in the west of \ork- 
ohire, Holderness, and Lincolnshire, and is best 
adapted for cold and li^ht sandy land. The usual 
quantity per acre is 70 bushels, when used alone; 
but when mixed with ashes, or common maniire 
of any sort, 30 bushels per acre is thought quite 
enough. It is applied at the same pcriotls as other 
manure, and has been found in this way to remain 
7 years in the ground. The rough part of this 
manure, after being 5 years in the ground, has 
been gathered off" one field and thrown upon another 
of a different soil, and has proved, even then, good 
manure. 

The bones which are best filled with oil and 
marrow are certainly the best manure; and the 
parts generally used for buttons and knife-hafts are 
the thigh and shank bones. The powdered bones 
are dearer, and generally used for hot-beds in gar- 
dens, being too expensive for the field, and not so 
durable as bruised bones, yet, for a short time, 
more productive. 

A dry, light, or gentle soil, is best adapted for 
the use of lione-manure; as it is supposed that, in 
land wliicli retains wet, the nutritive part of the 
bone washes to the surface of it and does not in- 
corporate sufficiently with the soil. 

Bruised bones are better when mixed with ashes, 
or any other manure, as the juice of the bones is 
then more equally spread over the field. Bone 
manure ought to be ploughed into the land in til- 
lage. On the grass the powder should be sown in 
the hand. 

This manure is used on land before described, 
to the extent of several thousand acres in the higher 
parts of Nottinghamshire, the Wolds (or high 
light land) in Lincolnshire, and the East and West 
liiding of Yorkshire. 

j\Ioss used as manure. 

Moss-earth will, without any preparation what- 
ever, operate as a manure to any otiier soil. The 
extreme cohesiveness of clay is often a bar to its 
improvement: pure sand is unproductive from a 
contrary cause. If these are mixed with each 
other, or if moss-earth is mixed with either, they 
vill be cured of these defects. The tenacious clay 
■will be rendered more open; the moisture will 
nsore easily percolate; a greater scope will be given 
to the roots of plants; they will not be so retentive 
of moisture in wet weather, nor so adhesive when 
dry. 

A mixture of moss among sand will deepen the 
soil, render it more retentive of moistui'e, and 
prevent the crop from being so readily injured by 
the drought. 

But it is much better to bring the moss into a 
course of putridity by some fermenting admixture 
before it is applied to any soil. If no such mixture 
can be procured, let the moss-earth be throvvn up 
in heaps, first exposed to the frost, and then to the 
other ciianges of weather for a year or two; and if 
it is turned, some Siuid or clay mixed with it, and 
the whole exposed for two seasons to tlie weather, 
it will form a tolerable manure. 

If moss-earth is minutely mixed with newly 
slaked lime, in a powdery state, and laid up for a 
few months, and once or twice turned over, well 
Utokeu, and a small (quantity of new lime thrown 



in when turned over, the antiseptic qualities of tha 
moss, in the course of a year after being so mixed, 
will be overcome, and the moss brought into a state 
of rapiil decomposition, and thereby formed into 
as good manure as so much straw, or other vege- 
tables, that had been taken from the arable lands. 
I'o prepare it ivilh lime. 

Dig up the moss, and throw it into heaps after 
harvest, or early in wintiT-, so that the frost may 
operate, and in part reduce its texture, before the 
drought forms it into peat. When dug up, and 
exposed to summer drought, before the frost has 
loosened its adhesion, it becomes a real peat, and 
will not be again so easily broken down by the 
weather. 

After being exposed to the weather for a whole 
winter, the moss-earth may be removed in the 
spring to the field to whicli it is intended to be 
applied, and when it is between wet and dry, 
thrown up, and mixed with about a fifth or sixth 
part of its weight of hot newly-slaked lime, in a 
powdery state. The moss should be as much bro- 
ken as possible, and minutely mixed with the lime. 
Various substances used as manure. 

J. B. Bailey, Esq. lately presented to the Agri- 
cultural Society of Manchester, the following enu- 
meration of substances which may be applied use- 
fully as manures instead of stable dung, viz. mud, 
sweepings of the streets, and coal-ashes; night soil; 
bones; refuse matters, as sweepings and rubbish of 
houses, &c. sea-weed, sea-shells, and sea-gravel, 
river-weeds, sweepings of roads, and spent tanner's 
bark to mix with lime. Peat or moss, decayed ve- 
getables, putrid water, the ashes of weeds, &c. the 
refuse of bleacher's ashes, soap suds, or ley, peat 
ashes, water in-floating, refuse salt. 

Plaster of Paris used as manure. 

Plaster of Paris is used as a manure in Pennsyl- 
vania. The best kind is imported from hills in the 
vicinity of Paris: it is brought down the Seine, and 
exported from Havre de Grace, The lumps com- 
posed of flat shining specula are preferred to those 
which are formed of round particles like sand; the 
simple method of finding out the quality is to pul-» 
verize some, and put it dry into an iron pot over 
the fire, when that which is good will soon boil, 
and great quantities of the fixed air escape by ebul- 
lition. It is pulverized by first jnittiiig it in a 
stamping-mill. The finer its pulverizatuin the 
better, as it will thereby be more generally difl'used. 

It is best to sow it on a wet day. The most ap- 
proved quantity for grass is six bushels per acre. 
No art is required in sowing it more than making 
the distribution as equal as possible on the sward 
of grass. It operates altogether as a top manure, 
and therefore should not be put on in the spring 
until the principal frosts are over and vegetation 
hath begun. The general time for sowing in Ame- 
rica, is in April, May, June, July, August, and 
even as late as September. Its effects will gen- 
erally appear in ten or fifteen days ; after which the 
growth of the grass will be so great as to produce 
a large burden at the end of six weeks after sowing. 

It must be sown on dry land, not subject to bo 
overflown. It has been sown on sand, loam, and 
clay, and it is difficult to say on which it has best 
answered, although the eftect is sooner visible on 
sand. It has been used as a manure in this state 
for twelve years; for, like other manure, its con- 
tinuance very much depends on the nature of the 
soil on which it is placed. 

JShde of applying blubber as a manure. 

This is a very rich ingredient, as well for arable 
as pasture land, when mixed at the rate of one ton 
of blubber to 20 loads of mould, and 1 chaldron of 
lime, per acre. It must be turned over and pul- 
verized; and '.vhen it has lain in this state tluW 



HUSBANDRY. 



325 



or four inontlis, it will become fit fov use, and mav 
be put upon the land in such quantities as the qual- 
ity of the land to be manured requires. It is a very 
Strong manure, and very excellent. 

Application ofmamires to land. 
Early in autumn, after the hay crop is removed, 
is the most convenient and least objectionable pe- 
riod for llie purpose. The common practice* is to 
••^pply manures, during tiie frost, in the winter. 
But the elastic fluids being tlie greatest supports 
of vegetation, maniu-es should be applied undei- 
circumstances that favour their generation. These 
will occur in spring, after tiie "grass has, in some 
degree, covered the ground, the" dvmg being tlien 
shaded from the sun. After a frost, much of the 
virtues of tlie dung will be washed away by tlie 
thaw, and its soluble parts destroyed: and in a 
frosty state, the ground is incapable of absorbing 
liquids. 

Management of arable land. 
Alternate husbandry, or the-system of having le- 
guminous and culmiferous crops to follow each 
other, with some modifications, is practicable on 
every soil. According to its rules, tlie land would 
rarely get into a foul and exhausted state; at least, if 
foul and exhausted under alternate husbandry, mat- 
ters would be much worse were any other system fol- 
lowed. The rotation may he long or short, as is 
consistent witii the richness of the soil, on which it 
is executed, and other local circumstances. The 
crops cultivated may be any of the varieties which 
compose any of the two tribes, according to the na- 
ture of soil and climate of the district where the 
rotation is exercised, and where circumstances ren- 
der ploughing not so advantageous as pasturing, the 
land may remain in grass, till these circumstances 
are obviated; care being always taken, when it is 
broken up, to follow alternate husbandry during 
the time it is under tillage. 

In this way we think it perfectly practicable to 
follow the alternate system in every situation; nor 
tie we consider the land being in grass for two, 
three, or four years, as a departure from that sys- 
tem, if called for by a scarcity of manure, poverty 
of soil, want of markets for corn, or other acciden- 
tal circumstances. The basis of every rotation we 
Hold to be either a bare summer fallow, or a fal- 
low on which drill turnips are cultivated, and its 
conclusion to be with the crop taken in the year 
preceding a return of fallow or drilled turnips, 
Avhen, of course, a new rotation commences. 
First rotation of crops. 
According to this rotation, wheat and drilled 
beans are the crops to be cultivated, though clover 
and rye-grass may be taken for one year, in place 
of beans, should such a variety be viewed as more 
eligible. The rotation begins with summer fallow 
because it is only on strong deep lands that it can 
be profitably practised; and it may go on for any 
length of time, or so long as the land can be'ke[)t 
clean, though it ought to sto|) tlie moment that the 
land gets into a contrary condition. A considera- 
ble quantity of manure is required to go on suc- 
cessfully; dung should be given to each beau cro|>; 
and if this crop is drilled, and attentively horse- 
hoed, the rotation may turn out to be one of the 
most profitable that can be exercised. 
Second rotation. 
Upon loams and clays, where it may not be ad- 
visable to carry the first rotation into execution, a 
difterent one can be practised; according to which 
labour will be more divided, and the usual grains 
more generally cultivated; as, for instance: — 

1. Vallovv, with dung. '2. Wheat. 3. Beans, 
drilled and horse-hoed. 4. Barley. 5. Clover 
and rye-grass. 6. Oats, or wheat. 7. Beans, drill- 
«d and horse-hoed. S. Wheat. 



This rotation is excellently calculated lo insure 
an abundant return through the whole of it, provi- 
ded dung is administered upon the clover stulible. 
Without this supply, the rotation would be crip- 
pled, and inferior crops of course produced in the 
concluding years. 

I'Mrd rotation. 

This rotation is calculated for clays and loams 
of an inferior description to those already treated 
of. 

1. Fallow, with dung. 2. Wheat. 3. Clover 
and Rye-grass. 4. Oats. 5. Beans, drilled and 
hoi-se-hoeil. 6. Wheat. 

According to this rotation, the rules of good hus- 
bandry are studiously practised, while the sequence 
is obviously calculated to keep the land in good or- 
der, and in such a condition as to insure crops of 
the greatest value. If manure is bestowed, either 
upon the clover stubble, or before the beans are 
sown, the rotation is one of the best that can be de- 
vised for the soils mentioned. 

Fourth rotation. 

On thin clays, gentle husbandry is indispensably 
necessary, otherwise the soil may be exhausted, 
and the produce unequal to the expense of cultiva- 
tion. Soils of this description will not improve 
much while under grass; but unless an additional 
stock of manure can be procured, there is a neces- 
sity of refreshing them in that way, even though 
the produce should, in the meantime, be compara- 
tively of small value. The following rotation isan 
excellent one. 

1. Fallow, with dung. 2. Wheat. 3. Grass, 
pastured, but not too early eaten. 4. Grass. ."5. 
Grass. C. Oats. 

I'iiis rotation may be shortened or lengthened, 
according to circumstances, but should never ex- 
tend further in point of ploughing, than when 
dung can be given to the fallow break. This is the 
key-stone of the whole; and if it is neglected, the 
rotation is rendei'ed uselessi 

Fifth rotation. 

Peat-earth soils are not friendly to wheat unless 
aided by a quantity of calcareous matter. Takinj 
them in a general point of view, it is not advisable 
to cultivate wheat; but a crop of oats may almost 
be depended upon, provided the previous manage- 
ment has been judiciously executed. If the sub- 
soil of peat-earth lands be retentive of moisture, 
the process ought to commence with a bare sum- 
mer fallow; but if such are incumbent on free and 
open bottoms, a crop of turnips may be substituted 
for fallow, according to which method, the surface 
will get a body which naturally it did not possess. 
Grass, on such soils, must always occupy a great 
space of every rotation, because physical circum- 
stances render regular cropping utterly impracti- 
cable. 

1. Fallow, or turnips, with dung. 2. Oats, of 
an early variety. 3. Clover, and a considerable 
quantity of perennial rye grass. 4. Pasture for 
siveral years, till circumstances permit the land to 
be broken up, when oats are to be repealed. 
Sixth rotation. 

Light soils are easily managed, though to pro- 
cure a full return of the profit wiiich tliej' are ca- 
pable of yielding, requires generally as much 
attention as is necessary in the management of 
those of a stronger description. Upon liglit soils, 
a bare summer fallow is seldom called for, as 
cleanliness may be preserved by growing turnips, 
and other leguminous articles. Grass also is of 
eminent advantage upon such soils, often yielding 
a greater profit than what is aflbrded by culmifer- 
ous crops. 

1. Turnips. 2. Spring wheat, or barley. S', 
Clover and rve-grass. 4. Oats, or wheat. 

a C 



32G 



UNIVERS^VL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Tliis rntntion wnnld be greatly improved, were 
it extended to ei!j;lit years, whilst the grouiul hy 
such ail extension, would he kept iVesh, and eoii- 
stanlly in p;oad condition. As for iiistanee, were 
seeds for i)astiire sown in the second year, the 
gj'onnd kept tin-ee years under grass, then broken 
up for oats in the sixth year, drilled with !)eansan(l 
peas in the seventh, and sown with wheat in the 
cig;hth, the rotation would he complete; because it 
inchided every branch of Imsbandry, and admitted 
» variety in management £;enerally a.i^reeable to the 
soil, and always favourable to tlie interest of culti- 
vators. The rotation maj' also consist of si.x crops, 
■were the land kept only one year iu grass, thougli 
few situations admit of so much cropping, unless 
additional manure is within reach. 
Seventh rotation. 
Sandy soils, when properly manured, are well 
adapted to turnips, though it rarely happens that 
■wheat can be cultivated on them witli advantage, 
■unless they are dressed with alluvial compost, 
marl, clay, or some such substances, as will give a 
l)0<iy or strength to them which they do not natu- 
rally possess. Parley, oats, and rye, the latter 
especially, sre, however, siu'e crops on sands; atid, 
in favourable seasons, will return greater profit 
than can be obtained from wheat. 

I. Turnips, consumed on the ground. 2. Bar- 
ley. 3. Grass. 4. live, or Oats. 

By keeping the land three years in grass, the 
rotation would be extended to six years, a measure 
highly advisable. 

From what has been Stated, every person capa- 
ble oPjudging will at once perceive'the facility of 
arranging husbandry upon coi-rect principles, and 
of cropping the ground in such a way as to make 
it produce abundant returns to the occupier, whilst 
at the same lime it is preserved in goocl condition, 
flnd never impoverished or exlrjusted. All these 
things are pei-fecl'y practicable imiler the alternate 
system, though it is doubtful whether they can be 
gained under any otiier. 

It may be a(Uled, that winter sown crops, or 
crops sown on the winter furrow, are most eligible 
on all clayey soils. 

Ploughing, with a view to clean soils of the de- 
scription under consideration, has little etiect un- 
less given in the summer montlis. This renders 
summer fallow indispensably necessary; and, with- 
out this radical process, none of tli'e heavy and 
\vet soils can be suitably managed, or preserved 
in a good condition. . . 

To adopt a judicious rotation of chopping for 
every soil, requires a degree of judgment in the 
farmer, which can oidy be gatliered iVom observa- 
tion and experience. 'The"old rotations were cal- 
culated to wear out the soil, and to render it un- 
]iroductive; but the modern rotations, such as 
those which we have described, are founded on prin- 
ci])les which insure a full return from the soil, 
•without lessening its value, or impoverishing its 
condition. Much depends, however, upon tiie man- 
ner in which the dilferent processes are executed; 
for the best arranged rotation may be of no avail, 
if the processes belonging to it are imperfectly and 
unreasonably executed. 

To cultivate -wlicat. 
On soils really calculated for wheat, thongh in 
different degrees, summer fallow is the first and 
leading step to gain a good crop or crops of that 
grain. 1 he nrst turrow should be given before 
winter, or as early as the other operations of the 
tarm will admit; and every attention should be 
used to go as deep as possible; for it rarely hap- 
pens that any of the succeeding furrows excJ^-d the 
first one in that respect. 'I'iie number of ufier- 
ploughmgs must be regulated by the conditiou of 



the ground and the state oFthe weather; but, in pje- 
neral, it may be observed, that ploughing in length 
and across, alternately, is the way by w hich the 
gi'ouiul will be most completely cut, and the inten- 
tion of fallowing accomplished. 

Varieties if seed. 

Wiieat may be classed under two principal di- 
visioikS, though each of these admits of sevei'al sub- 
divisions. The first is composed of all the varieties 
of red wheat. Tiie second division compreiiends 
the whole varieties of white wheat, which again 
may be arranged under two distinct heads, namely, 
thick chafted and thin chafi'ed. 

Tlie thick chaffed varieties were formerly ia 
greatest repute, generally yielding the whitest and 
finest flour, and, in dry seasons, not inferior in 
produce to the oilier; but since 1799, when ihe dis- 
ease called mildew, to which they are constitution- 
ally predisposed, raged so extensively, they have 
gradually been going out of fashion. 

The t[iin chaffed wheats are a hardy class, and 
seldom mildewed, unless the weather be particu- 
larly inimical during the stages of blossoming, 
filling, and ripening, though some of them are 
rather better qualified to resist that destructive 
disorder than others. Ia 1*99, thin ciiaffed wheats 
were seriously injured; and instances were not 
wanting to show, that an acre of lliein, with re- 
spect to value, exceeded an acre of thick chaffed 
wheat, quantity and quality considered, not less 
than fifty per cent. Since tliat time, therefore, 
their culture has rapidly increased; and to this cir- 
cumstance may, in a great measure, he attributed 
the high character which thin chaffed wheats now 
bear. 

JMethod of solving. 

Sowing in the broad-cast way may be said to be 
the mode universally practised. Upon well pre- 
pared lands, if the seed be distributed equally, it 
can scarcely be sown too thin; periiaps two bushels 
per acre are suiKcient; for the heaviest crops at 
autumn are rarely those which show tlie most 
vigorous api)earance- through the winter months. 
Bean ^lul)bles require more seeil than summer fal- 
lows, because the roughness of their surface prevents 
sucii an equal distribution; and clover leas ought to 
be still thicker sown than bean stubliles. 'I'hin sow- 
ing in spring ought not to be practised, otherwise 
the crop will be late, and imperfectly ri[iened. No 
more harrowing should be given to fields that have 
been fallowed, than what is necessary to cover the 
seed, and level the surface sulficieiitly. Ground, 
which is to lie in a broken down stale through the 
winter, suffers severely when an excessive harrow- 
ing is given, especially if it is incumbent on a 
close bottom; though, as to the quantity necessary, 
none can give an opinion, excejjt lliose who are 
personally present. 

To sa-M grain by ribbing. 

The ribbing of grain crops was lutroduced into 
Northumberland, in the 3'ear ISIO. The process 
is as follows: Suppose the land in fallow, or tur- 
nips eat off, let it be gathered into ridges of twelve 
fee', each; then harrow it well, parlicularly the 
turrows of the ridges; after which lake a narrow- 
bottomed swing plough, five inches and a half 
broad at tiie heel, with a narrow-winged sock, 
drawn by one horse; begin in the furrow, as if you 
intended to gather two ridges together, which will 
make a rib exactly in the middle of the furrow; 
then turn back up the same furrow you came 
down, keeping close to the rib made; pursue the 
same mode on the other side, and take a little of 
the soil, which is thrown over by the mould- 
board from the back of each rib, and so on till yoii 
come near the furrow, when you must pursue the 
same mode as at first. In water furrowing you 



HUSBANDRY. 



vill then have a "rib on each side of the farrow, dis- 
tance between the rib, ten or twelve inches. Tiie 
seed to be sown by the liand; and, from the nar- 
rowness or sharpness of the top of ilie ridges, the 
grain will fall regularly down; then put on a light 
harrow to cover Ihe'Seed. In wet soils, the ridges 
0U.2,ht to be twice gathered, as ribbing reduces them. 

it will answer all kinds of cro[)s, but not all 
soils. Strong clayey soils cannot be pulverized 
sufficiently for that purpose; nor can it be efl'ecteil 
in clover-lea, unless it be twice ploughed, and 
well harrowed. Kibbing is here esteemed i)re- 
ferable to drilling, as you have the same opportu- 
nity of keeping tlie land clean, and the grain does 
not fall so close together, as by di'illing.' 

The farmer may hand or horse-hoe his crops, 
and also hoe in his clover-seed: which is consider- 
ed very advantageous. It is more productive of 
grain, especially when it is apt to lodge; and, iu all 
cases, as much straw; and ribbing is often the 
means of preventing the corn lodging. 

In a wet season, riljbing is more favourable to 
harvesting; because the space between the ribs 
admits tlie air freely, and the corn dries much 
sooner. The reapers, also, when accustomed to 
it, cut more, and take it up cleaner. 

Improved melhod of drilUng ivheat. 

The drill contains three coulters, placed in a 
triangular form, and worked by brushes, with cast- 
iron nuts, sufficient for one horse to draw, and one 
man to attend to. It will drill tlu-ee acres per day 
of wheat, barley, or oats, at five inches asunder; 
and live acres per day of beanSj peas, &c. at twelve 
inches asunder. The general practice is to drill 
crossways, and to set the rows five or six inches, 
and never exceeding seven inches apart, it being 
found that, if the distance is greater, they are too 
long filling up in the spring; that they aft'ord a 
greater breadth for the growth of weeds; are more 
expensive to hoe, and more liable to be laid in the 
summer. In drilling wheat, never harrow after 
the drill, if it can be avoided; the drill generally 
leaving the corn sufficiently covered; and by this 
plan, the vegetation is quickened, and the lidges 
of soils, between eacii row, preserve the plants in 
winter, and render the operation of harrowing in 
the spring much more efficacious. The spring 
harrowing is performed the contrary way to that 
of the drilling, as the harrow working upon the 
ridges does not pull up the j)lants, and leaves the 
ground mouldy forilie hoe. This point should be 
particularly attended to. The harrowing after the 
drill, evidently leaves the ground in a better state 
to the eye; but the advantages in the produce of the 
crop are decidedly in favour of the plan of leaving 
the land in the rough state already described; as 
the operation of the winter upon the clods causes 
them to pulverize, and furnishes an abimdant nu- 
trition to the plants in the spring; and followed by 
the hoe, about tiie time the head or ear is forming, 
it makes the growth of the plant more vigorous, 
and greatly improves the size of the head or ear. 
The drilling for wheat should generally commence 
about the latter end of September; at which time 
the farmer may drill about two bushels per acre. 
As the season advances, keep increasing the quan- 
tity to three bushels per acre, being guided by the 
quality of the soil and other circumstances. A 
great loss has frequently arisen, through drilling 
too small a quantity of seed, as there can be none 
spared in that case for the rooks and grubs; and a 
thick well planted crop will always yield more 
abundantly ihau a thin-stooling crop, and ripen 
sooner. 

The drill system would have been in more gene- 
ral practice, if its friends had also recommended 
the use of a larger quantity of seed to the acre, 



and the rows to he planted nearer together. It is 
impossible to obtain so great a produce per acre 
by the broad-cast system, as by the drill system at 
the same expense, be the land ever so free from 
weeds. Fifty bushels per acre may be raised by 
the drill, but never more than 40 bushels by sow- 
ing broad-cast. The w heat crops should generally 
be top-dressed in winter with manure compost, or 
some other dressing in frost, or when you can cart 
upon the land; but if that operation is rendered 
impracticable, sooting in ]\larch, or any other 
dressing of that descrijjtion, hoed in at the spring, 
is preferable to a dressing laid on in the autumn, 
and ploughed in. 

The advantages of the drill over the broad-cast 
system are numerous and decisive; as it enables 
the farmer to grow corn without weeds; is sooner 
ready for stacking after the scythe or sickle; pro- 
daces a cleaner and more regular sample for the 
market; and of consequence obtains a better price; 
leaves the land in a belter state for a succeeding 
crop, and materially increases the quantity of food 
for human consumption. 

7'o pickle the seed. 

This process is indispensably necessary on every 
soil; otherwise smut, to a greater or less extent, 
will in nine cases out of ten assuredly follow. 
Stale urine may be considered as the safest anil 
surest pickle; and where it can be obtained in a 
sufficient quantity, is commonly resorted to. The 
mode of using it does not, however, seem to be 
agreed upon; for while one party contends that the 
grain ought to be steeped in the urine, another 
party considers it sufficient to sprinkle the urine 
upon it. But whatever difference of opinion there 
may be as to the kind of pickle that ought to be 
used, and the mode of using it, all admit tlie utility 
of mixing the wetted seed with hot lime fresh 
slaked; and this, in one'point of view, is absolutely 
necessary, so that the seed may be equally dis- 
tributed. It may be remarked, that experience 
justifies the utility of all these modes, provided 
they are attentively carried into execution. There 
is some danger from the first; for, if the seed steep- 
ed in urine is not immediately sown, it will infal- 
libly lose its vegetative power. The second, viz. 
sprinkling the urine on the seed, seems to be the 
safest, if performed by an attentive hand; whilst 
the last may do equally well, if such a quantity of 
salt be incorporated with the water, as to render 
it of sufficient strength. It may also be remarked, 
that this last mode is often accompanied with smut, 
owing no doubt to a deficiency of strength in the 
pickle; whereas- a single head with smut is rarely 
discovered when urine has been used. 
To culUvate Indian corn. 

The land should be a loamy sand, very rich. In 
the beginning of April, the grains should be set 
like hops, at two feet distance, six or eight grains 
in a hill, each grain about an inch deep in the 
ground. The seed from New England is the best. 
In the beginning of May, the alleys should be 
hoed, and the hills weeded and earthed up higher. 
At the latter end of that month all the superfluous 
stalks should be taken away, and only three stems 
of corn left in each hill. By the middle of June 
it will cover the aiiey. it gfows much like bul- 
rushes, the lower leaves being like broad flags, 
three or fbur inches wide, and as many feet in 
length; the stems shooting upwards, from seven to 
ten feet in heiglit, with many joints casting off flag- 
leaves at every joint. Under these leaves, and 
close to the stem, grows the corn, covered over by 
many coats of sedgy leaves, and so closed in by 
them to the stem, that it does not show itself easi- 
ly, till there bursts out at the end of the ear a num- 
ber of strings that look like tufts of horse-bair,'at 



328 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



first of a beautiful green, and afterwards red or 
yellow, the stem ending in a flower. The corn 
■will ripen in September; hut the sun at that season 
not having strength enough to dry it, it must be 
laid upon racks, or thin open floors, in dr}' rooms, 
and tVefiuently turned, to avoid moulding; the 
grains are about as big as peas, and adhere in re- 
gular rows round a white pithy substance, whicli 
forms the ear. An ear contains from two to four 
hundred grains, and is from six to ten inches in 
len;>tli. They are of various colours, blue, red, 
wlifte, and yellow. The manner of gathering them 
is by cutting down the stems and breaking oR" the 
ears. The stems are as big as a man's wrist, and 
look like bamboo cane: the pith is full of a juice 
that tastes as sweet as sugar; and the joints are 
about a foot and a half distant. The increase is 
upwards of five hundred fold. Upon a larg'fe scale, 
the seed may be drilled in alleys like peas; and, 
to save digging, the ground may be plouglied and 
harrowed, which will answer very well. It will 
grow upon all kinds of land. The ears which 
grow upon dry sandy land are less, but iiarder and 
riper. The grain is taken from tlie husk by hand, 
and when ground upon French stones, makes an 
excellent flour, of which it yields much more, 
■with much less bran, than wheat does, and exceeds 
it in crust, pancakes, puddings, and all other uses 
except bread; hut a sweetness peculiar to it, vtdiich 
in all other cases makes it agreeable, is here nau- 
seous. It is excellent for feeding poultry and hogs, 
and fattens both much better and sooner than peas 
or barley. The stems make better hedges for 
kitchen garden than reeds do. It clears the ground 
from weeds, and makes a good season for any other 
kind of corn. Piso, and other Spanish physicians, 
are full of the medicinal virtues of this grain. It 
■was the only bread-corn known in America when 
first discovered by the Spaniards, and is there call- 
ed maize. 

Diseases of wheat. 
Wheat is subject to more diseases than other 
grains, and, in some seasons, especially in wet 
ones, heavier losses are sustained from those dis- 
eases, than are felt in the culture of any other cul- 
miferous crop with which we are acquainted. 
Wheat may suffer from the attack of insects at the 
root; from blight, which, primarily, affects tiie 
leaf or straw, and ultimately deprives the grain of 
sufficient nourishment; from mildew on tiie ear, 
which operates thereon with the force of an apo- 
plectic stroke; and from gum of different shades, 
vhich lodges on the chafl" or cups in which the 
grain is deposited. 

m^ht. 

Blight originates from moist or foggy weather, 
and from hoar-frost, the effects of which, when ex- 
pelled by a hot sun, are first discernible on the 
straw, and afterwards on the ear, in a greater or 
less (Jegree, according to local circumstances. Let 
a field be examined in a day or two after such wea- 
ther, and a careful observer will soon be satisfied, 
that the fibres and leaves of plants are contracted 
and enfeebled, in consequence of what may be call- 
ed a stoppage of perspiration. This disorder mav 
take place either earlier or later, but is most fata'l 
Avhen it appears at the time the grain is forming 
in the ear. It may appear at an earlier stage; and 
though the productive powers of the plant will liiere- 
by be lessened, yet, if circumstances are afterwards 
favourable, thequality ofthegrainproduced may not 
be much impaired; or it may appear after the grain 
is fully formed, and then very little damage will be 
fcustained, except by the straw. 
Mildew. 

Mildew may be ranked as a disease which af- 
fe»U the ear, and is brought on by causes some- 



what similar to those which occasion blight, thongh 
at a more advanced period of the season. If this 
disorder comes on immediately after the first 
apjiearance of the ear, the straw will also be af- 
fected; but if the grain is nearly or fully formed, 
then injury on the straw is not much discernible. 
We have seen a crop which carried wheat bliat was 
mildewed, where the straw was perfectly fresh, 
though, indeed, this rarely happens. A severe 
mildew, however, effectually prevents both corn 
and straw from making any further progress, the 
whole plant apparently going backward every day 
till existence in a manner ceases altogether. Some- 
thing akin to mildew is the gum or red oaker, 
which, in all warm moist seasons, attaches itselt 
to the ear and often occasions considerable dam- 
age. All these different disorders ai-e generally 
accompanied by insects; which animalcule, by many 
people who talie the effect for the cause, are con- 
sidered, though without the least foundation, as 
tlie authors of' the mischief that follows. Their 
appearance, however, may justly be attributed to 
the diseased state of the plant; for wherever putre- 
faction takes place, either in anirijal or vegetable 
substances, the presence of these insects will never 
be wanting. 

Rmt. 

Another disorder which effects wheat, and by 
several people deiiominaled the real rust, is brought 
on by excessive heats, wliich occasion the plants 
to suffer from a privation of noui-isliment, and be- 
.come sickly and feeble. In this atropbical state, 
a kind of dust gathers on the stalk and leaves, 
which increases witii the disease, till the plant is 
in a great measure worn out and exliausted. The 
onlv remedy in tliis case, and it is one that cannot 
easily be administered by the hand of man, is a 
plentiful supply of moisture, l)y which, if it is re- 
ceived before consumption is too far advanced, the 
crop is benefited in a degree ]iroporlinnal to the 
extent of nourishment recei\ed, and tlie stage at 
which the disease has arrived. 

Impropriety ofsoiviitg jnildnved ivheat. 

Some people have recommended the sowing of 
blighted and luildewed wheat, because it will ve- 
getate; though certaiidy tlie recommendation, if 
carried into practice, would be attended with immi- 
nent danger to those wiio attempted it. That light 
or defective wheat will vegetate and produce a. 
plant, we are not disposed to contradict; but that 
it will vegetate as briskly, or put out a stem of equal 
strength, and capable of wiihstanding the severe 
winter blasts, as those produced from sound seed, 
we must be excused for not believing. Let it only 
be considered, that a plant of young wheat, unless 
when very early sown, lives three or four months, 
in a great measure, upon the nourishment wiiich it 
derives from the parent seed; and that such nour- 
ishment can, in no view of the subject, be so great 
when the parent is lean and emaciated, as when 
sound, healthy and vigorous. Let it also be re- 
membered, that a plant produced from the best 
and weightiest seed, must, in every case, under a 
party of other circumstances, have a stronger con- 
stitution at the outset, wliich necessarily qualifies 
it to push on with greater energy when the season 
of growth arrives. Indeed, the economy of nature 
would be over-turned, had any other result follow- 
ed. A breeder of cattle or sheep would not act 
more foolishly, who trusted that a deformed dimi- 
nutive bull or ram would produce him good stock, 
than the corn farmer does who uses unsound or im- 
perfect seed. 

To remove the mildcio on wheat. 

A solution of comn>on salt in water, in the pro- 
portion of a pound to a gallon, is an excellent re- 
medy for the mildew on corn. After sprinkling 



HUSBANDRY. 



529 



three or four days, the mildew -will disappear, 
.caving only a discoloration on the straw wliere it 
vas destroyed. The hest and most expeditious 
way of applying the mixtm-e is with a flat brush, 
such as is used by white washers. Tiie ojierator 
naviug a pail of the mixture in one hand, with the 
otl\er he dips the brush into it, and malces liis re- 
gular casts as when sowing corn broad-cast; in this 
way he will readily get over ten acres in the day, 
and with an assistant a great deal more. About 
two hogsheads of the mixture will suffice for an 
acre. Wherever the mixture touches, the mildew 
immediately dies. 

To prevent mildew in wheat. 
Dissolve 3 oz. and 2 drachms of sulphate of cop- 
per, copperas, or blue vitriol, in 3 gallons and 3 
quarts, wine measure, of cold water, fur every three 
bushels of grain that is to be prepared. Into ano- 
ther vessel capable of containing from 53 to 79 
wine gallons, throw from 3 to 4 Winchester bush- 
els of wheat, into which the prepared liquid is 
poured, until it rises 5 or 6 incties above tiie corn. 
Stir it thoroughly; and carefullj^ remove all that 
swims on the surface. After it has remained half 
an hour in the preparation, throw the wheat into a 
basket that will allow the water to escape, but not 
tlie grain. It ought then to be immediately wasii- 
ed in rain, or pure water, which will prevent any 
risk of its injuring the germ, and afterwards tlie 
seed ought to be dried before it is sown. It may 
be preserved in this shape for months. 
'To prevent the smut in ivheat. 
Liming the seed by immersion is recommended 
t>y a French writer, as the only preventive war- 
ranted by science and sanctioned by experience, 
and the following is given as the method in which 
the process is best performed: 

To destroy the germs of the blight in 4^ bushels 
or 256 lbs. of corn, about 6 or 7 gallons of water 
must be used, as grain may be more or less dry, 
and from 35 to 42 ounces avoirdupois of quick 
lime, according as it may be more or less caustic, 
and according as the seed may have more or less 
of the blight. Boil part of the water, black the 
lime with it, and then add the rest. When joined, 
the heat of tiie water should be such, that the hand 
can with difficulty bear it. Pour the lime water 
upon the corn placed in a tub, stirring itincessant- 
ly, first with a stick, and afterwards with a slio- 
vel. The liquid should, at first, cover tlie wlieat, 
three or four fingers' breadth; it will soon be ab- 
sorbed by the grain. In this state let it remain co- 
vered over for 24 hours, but turn it over 5 or 6 
times during the day. Such parts of the liquor as 
will drain off", may then be separated, when the 
corn, after standing a few hours, in order that it 
may run freely out of the hand, may be sown. If 
not intended to be used immediately, tlie limed 
wheat should be put in a heap, and moved once or j 
twice a day till dry. Experience has proved that 
limed grain germinates sooner than unlimed; and, 
as it carries with it moisture sufficient to develop 
the embryo, the seed will not suffer for want of 
rain; insects will not attack it, the acrid taste of 
the lime being offensive to them; and, as every , 
grain germinates, a less quantity is requisite. In 
fact, the grain being swelled, the sower filling his ; 
hand as usual, will, when he has sown 05 handsful ; 
of limed corn, have, in reality, only used 52. As 
blighted grains preserve, for a long time, the power 
of germinating, the careful farmer, whose grain 
lias been touched, should carefully sweep out the 
ci'eviees in tha walls, and cracks in the floors of 
his barn, and take great pains to clean them tho- 
roughly. 

Another method. 
A. tub is used that lias a hole at bottom, for a I 
2 K 



spigot and faucet, fixed in a wisp of straw, to pre- 
vent any small pieces of lime passing (as in brew 
ing). To 70 gallons of water, add a corn bushel 
of unslaked lime, stir it well till the whole is mix- 
ed, let it stand 30 hours, run it oft" into another tub 
as clear as possible (as practiced in beer); add 42 
pounds of salt, which, with stirring, will soon dis- 
solve; this is a proper pickle for brining and liming 
seed-wlieat without any obstacle, and greatly faci- 
litates the drilling. 

Steep the wheat in a broad-bottomed basket, 24 
inches diameter, and twenty inches deep, running 
in tlie grain gradually in small (juantities, from 10 
to 12 gallons; stirring the same. What floats, skim 
oft", and do not sow; then draw up the basket, t» 
drain the pickle, for a few minutes; this may be 
performed in half an hour, and when sufficiently 
liickled, proceed as before. Tiie wheat will be 
fit for sowing in 24 hours, if required; but for 
drilling, two iiours pickled will be best; and pre- 
pared four or five days before. 
jyir Hendersoji's method of preventing smxit in 
■wheat. 

Take of best soft green soap, made from fish-oil, 
1 pound, and of scalding water, 4 gallons. Put the 
soap into a glazed vessel with a small portion of 
the water; continue stiiTingit, and add the water 
as it dissolves, till the whole is a perfect ley. It 
shoul* be used about 90 deg. of Fahrenheit's ther- 
mometer, or new-milk warm. Put the wheat into 
a tub, and pour on it a quantity of tlie liquor suffi- 
cient to cover it completely, and tlirow a blanket 
over it to preserve the heat. Stir it eveiy ten 
minutes, and take off' the scum. When it has 
remained in this manner for an hour, drain the 
liquor from the wheat through a sieve, or let the 
tub be furnished with a drain bottom like a brew- 
ing vat. Let the liquor which was drawn off' stand 
a few minutes to subside, and tlien pour it off" the 
sediment. Repeat the operation till tlie whole 
quantity is steeped, otdy observe to add, each 
time, as much hot ley as was observed by the for- 
mer steeping. Dry the wheat with quick lime, 
and sow as soon as convenient. It will keep ten 
days after steeping; but should be spread thia oa 
a dry floor. 

Three pounds of soap, and 12 gallons of water, 
will steep half a ball of wheat. If a tub with a 
drain-bottom is used, such as a hogshead, with a 
spigot to draw off" the ley, 4 ounces of soap, and 1 
gallon of water scalding hot, will preserve a stock' 
of warm ley sufficient for any quantity of wlieat; 
and, allowing 5 minutes for draining, five balls may 
be done in 11 hours. The operation should be 
performed in a clean place, at a (hstance from 
barns and granaries, the roofs of which may be 
observed hanging full of smut. Tlie refuse of 
smutted wheat should be buried deep in the earth, 
and not tiirown to the dung-hill, from which it 
would be conveyed to the field. 
Advantages of reaping corn before being perfectly 
ripe. 

M. Cadet de Vaux has lately recommended, as 
an important and useful innovation, the reaping of 
corn before it is perfectly ri[)e. This practice 
originated with jNI. Salles, of the Agricultural So- 
ciety of Beziers: grain thus reaped (say eight days 
before it is ripe) is fuller, larger, and finer, and is 
never attacked by the weevil. Tliis was proved by 
reaping one half of a piece of corn-field, as recom- 
mended, and leaving the other till the usual time. 
The early reaped portion gave a hectclitre (about 3 
bushels) of corn more for an acre of land, than the 
later-reaped. An equal quantity of fiour from 
each was made into bread; that made from the 
corn reaped green gave seven pounds of bread 
more than the other, in two bushels. The weevil 

2 C 2 



33C 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



attacked the ripe corn hut not tlie g;reen. The 
j)roper lime foi- leajiin;^' is when the grain, jn-essed 
Ijelweeu llic lingers, has a doughy appearance, 
like bread just hot from the oven, when pressed in 
the satnc way. 

Tu manage the 'wheal harvest. 
It is advaritai;eoLis to cut wlieat before it is fully 
rijie; btJt, in ascertaining liie proper state, it is ne- 
tessai'y to discriminate between the ripeness of the 
straw and the ripeness of the grain; for, in some 
seasons, the straw dies upwards, under which cir- 
cumstance, a field, tothce}e, may appear to be 
completely fit for the sickle, when, in reality, the 
S;rain is inii)erfcctly consolidated, and perhajjS not 
iiuich removed from a milky state. Ihough it is 
obvious that under such circumstances, no t'urther 
benefit cin be conveyed from the root, and that nou- 
rishment is withheld the momer.t that the roots die: 
yet it does not follow that grain so circumstanced 
should be immediately cut; because, after that ope- 
ration is performed, it is in a great measure neces- 
sarily deprived of every benefit from the sun and 
air, both of which liave gi'eater influence in bringing 
it to maturity, so long as it remains on foot, than 
vhen cut down, whether laid on the grounil or liound 
up in sheaves. The state of weather at the time 
also deserves notice; for, as in moist, or even va- 
riable weather, every kind of grain, when cut pre- 
maturely, is more expo.-ed to damage tliau wilen 
completely ripened. AH these things will be stu- 
<]ied by the skilful liusbandman, who will also 
lake into consideration the dangers which may fol- 
low, were he to permit his wheat crop to remain 
uncut till cora[)letely ripened. The danger from 
M'iiul will not be lost sigiit of, especially if the 
season of the e([uinox approaches; even the quan- 
tity dropped in the field, and in the stack-yard, 
■when wheat is over ripe, is an object of considera- 
tion. 'I'aking all these things into view, it seems 
prudent to have wheat cut befoi-e it is fully ripe, 
as less damage will be. sustained from acting in 
this way thati by adopting a contrary practice. 

If the weather be dry, and the straw clean, wheat 
may be carted to the stack-yard in a few days; 
indeed, if quite ripe, it may be stacked immedi- 
ately from the sickle, especially when not jneant 
for early threshing. So long, however, as any 
moisture remains in the straw, the field will be 
found to be the best stack-yard; and where grass 
or weeds of any kind are mixed with the ci'op, 
patience must be exerted till they are decayed and 
dried, lest heating be occasioned. 
Hurley. 
Next to wheat, the most valuable grain is bar- 
ley, especially on light and sharp soils. 

It is a tender grain, and easily hurl in any of the 
stages of its growth, particularly at seed time: a 
heavy shower of rain will then almost ruin a crop 
on the best prepared land; and in all the after i)ro- 
cesses, greater pains and attention are required to 
insure success, than in the case of other grains. 
The harvest process is difficult, and often attended 
■with danger; even the thrashing of it is not easily 
executed with machines, because the awn generally 
adheres to the grain, and renders separation from 
the straw a troublesome task. Barley, in fact, is 
raised at greater expense than wheat, and generally 
speaking, is a more hazardous crop. Except upon 
rich and genial soils, where climate will allow 
■wheat to be perfectly reared, it ought not to be 
cultivated. 

Varieties of barley. 
Barley may be divided'into two sorts, early and 
late; to which may be added a bastard variety, 
called bear or bigg, which aftbrds similar nutri- 
ment or substance, though of inferior quality. 
Early barley, uiidei' various names, was for- 



merly sown, in Britain, upon lands that had been 
previously summer fallowed, or were in high con- 
dition; but this mode of culture being in a great 
measure renounced, the common sort, which ad- 
mits of being sown either early or late, is now 
generally used. 

The most proper seed season is any time ia 
April, though we have seen good crops produced, 
the seed of which was sown at a much later period. 
To prepare the ground. 
Barley is chiefly taken after turnips, sometimes 
after peas and beans, hut rarel}', by good farmers, 
either after wheat or oats, unless under special cir- 
cumstances. When sown after turnips, it is gene- 
rally taken with one furrow, which is given as fast 
as the turnips are consumed, the ground thus re- 
ceiving much benefit from the spring frosts. But 
often two or more furrows are necessary for the 
fields last consumed; because, when a spring 
drought sets in, the surface from being poached by 
the removal or consumption of the crop, gets so 
hardened as to render a greater quantity of plough- 
ing, harrowing, and rolling necessary, than would 
otherwise be called for. ^Vhen sown after beans 
and peas, one winter and one spring ploughing 
are usually bestowed: hut, when after wheat or 
oats, three ploughings are necessary, so that the 
ground may be put in proper condition. These 
operations are very ticklish in a wet and backward 
season, and rarely in that case is the grower paid 
for the expense of his labour. Where land is in 
such a situation as to require three ploughings, 
before it can he seeded with barley, it is better to 
summer fallow it at once, than to run the risks 
which seldom fail to accompany a quantitj' of 
spring labour. If the weather beji'y, moisture is 
lost during the different processes, and an imper- 
fect braird necessarily follows: if it be wet, the be- 
nefit of ploughing is lost, and all the evils of a wet 
seed time are sustained by the future crop. 
Quantity of seed. 
The quantity sown is different in difTerent cases, 
according to the quality of the soil and other cir- 
cumstances. Upon very rich lands, eight pecks 
per acre are sometimes sown; twelve is very com- 
mon; and, upon poor land, more is sometimes 
given. 

By good judges a quantity of seed is sown suffi- 
cient to insure a full crop, without depending on 
its sending out offsets; indeed, where that is done, 
few offsets are produced, the crop grows and ripens 
equally, and the grain is uniforml)' good. 
J\lr jW Cartney^s invention for hummelling barley. 
This invention is extremely simple, and the cost 
only Ss. It is a bit of notclied stick or bar, lined 
on one side with a thin plate of iron, and just the 
length of the rollers, fixed by a screw-bolt at each 
end to the inside of the cover of the drum, about 
the middle of it, so as the edge of the said notched 
stick is about one-eighth of an inch from the arms 
of the drum as it goes round. Two minutes are 
sufficient to put it on, when its operation is wanted; 
which is when putting through the bear the second 
time; and it is easily taken off. It rubs off the 
awns or spikes to admiration; and by putting the 
grain another time through the mill, it will rub 
the husk off the ends of the pickle so entirely, 
that it is unnecessary to sow it afterwards. 
2'o /lan'est barley. 
jNIore care is required in the harvesting of bar- 
ley, than any of the other white crops, even in the 
besj. of seasons; and in bad years it is often found 
very difficult to save it. Owing to the brittleness 
of the strav/, after it has reached a certain period, 
it must be cut down; as, when it is suftered to stand 
longer, much loss is sustained by the breaking of 
the heails. On tliat account, it is cut at a time 



HUSBANDRY. 



331 



•when the grain is soft, and the straw retains a s^reat 
])roportion of its natural juices, conse([uently re- 
quires a long time in the field, bet'oi-e either the 
grain is hardened, or the straw suulcitruly dry. 
When put into llie stack sooner, it is apt to heat, 
and much loss is frequently sustained. It is a 
custom with many farmers to Iiave an openina; in 
the middle of their barley stacks, from top to bot- 
tom. This opening is generally made by placing 
n large bundle of straw in the centre of the stack, 
■wlien (he building commences, and, in proportion 
as it rises, the stiaw is drawn upwards, leaving a 
hollow beliind; which, if one or two openings are 
left in the side of the stack near tlie boll( ni, in- 
sures so complete a circulation of air as not only 
to prevent iieating, but to preserve the grain from 
becoming musty. 

Varieties of oats. 
Of tliis grain the varieties are more numerous 
than of any other of tlie culmiferous tribe. These 
varieties consist of what is called the common oat; 
the Angus oat, wliich is considered as an improvecl 
variety of the other; tlie Poland oat; the Friesland 
oaf; the red oat; the dun oat; the Tartar, or Sibe- 
rian oat; and the potatoe oat. The Poland and 
potatoe varieties are best adapted to rich soils; the 
red oat for late climates; and the other varieties 
I'or the generality of soils, of whicii tlie Hrilisli 
isles are composed. Tlie Tartar, or Siberian 
kind, though very hardy and proline, is much out 
of use, being of a coarse substance, and unproduc- 
tive of meal. The dun cat has never been much 
cultivated, and tlie use of Poland's and Friesland's 
is now much circumscribed, since potatoe oats 
vverp introduced, the latter being considered, by 
the most discerning agriculturists, as of superior 
value, in every respect, where the soil is rich and 
properly cultivated. 

To prepare the ground. 
Oats are chieiiy sown after gj'ass; sometimes 
upon land not rich enough for wheat, tluit had been 
jireviously summer fallowed, or had carried tur- 
nips; often after barley, and rarely after wheat, 
unless cross-cropping, from particular circumstan- 
ces, becomes a necessary evil. One ploughing is 
generally given to the grass lands, usually in the 
jnoiith of Januaiy, so that the benefit of frost may 
be gained, and the land sufficiently mellov>'ed for 
receiving the harrow. In some cases a spring fur- 
row is given, wlien oats succeed wheat or barley, 
especially when grass seeds are to accompany the 
crop. The best oats, both in quantity and quality, 
are alw.iys those which succeed grass; indeed, no 
kind of grain seems better qualified by nature for 
foraging upon grass land than oats; as a full crop 
is usually obtained in the first instance, and the 
land left iu good order for succeeding ones. 
Quantity of seed. 
From twelve to eighteen pecks of seed is gene- 
rally allowed to the Scottish acre of ground, ac- 
cording to the richness of the soil, and the variety 
that is cultivated. Here it may be remarked, that 
land, sown witli potatoe oats, requires much less 
seeil, in point of measure, than when any of the 
other sorts are used; because potatoe oats both til- 
ler well, much better than Poland ones, and have 
not an awn or tail, like the ordin.'iry varieties. On 
that account, a measure contains many more seeds 
of them than of any other kind. If land is equally 
well cultivated, there is little doubt but that the 
like quantity of seed given when barley is culti- 
vated, may be safely trusted to when potatoe oats 
are to be-raised. 

To harvest oats. 
O.^ts are a hardy grain, and rarely get much 
damage wht-n under the harvest process, except 
from high winds or from shedding, when opened 



out after being thoroughly wetted. The early 
varieties are much more liable to these losses than 
tiie late ones, because the grain parts more easily 
from the straw, an evil to which the best of grain 
is at all times subject. Early oats, however, may 
be cut a little quick, -which, to a certain extent, 
lessens the danger to which they are exposed from 
high winds; and if the sheaves be made small, the 
danger from shedding after rains is considerably 
lessened, because they are thus sooner ready for 
the stack. Under every management, however, a 
greater quantity of early oats will be lost during 
the harvest process than of late ones; because the 
latter adhere firmly to the straw, and consequently 
do not drop so easily as the former. 
'I'o cidlivate rye. 

Rye ought never to be sown upon wet soils, nor 
even upon sandy soils where the sub-soil is of a 
retentive nature. Upon downs, links, and all soft 
lands, which have received manure, this grain 
thrives in perfection, and, if once covered in, will 
stand a drought afterwards, that would consume 
any of the culmiferous tribe. The several pro- 
cesses may be regarded as nearly the same with 
those x-ecommended for wheat, with the single ex- 
ception of pickling, which rye does not require. 
Rye may be sown either in winter or spring, 
tiiough the winter-seeded fields are generally 
bulkiest and most productive. It may succeed 
either summer fallow, clover or turnips; even after 
oats, good crops have been raised, and where such 
crops are raised, the land will always be found in 
good condition. 

To cultivate beayis. 

Beans naturally succeed a culmiferous crop; and 
we believe it is not of much importance which of 
the varieties are followed, provided the ground is 
in decent order, and not worn out by the previous 
crop. The furrow ought to be given early in win- 
ter, and as deep as possible, that the eartli may be 
sufficiently loosened, and room afforded for the 
roots of the plant to search for the requisite nour- 
ishment. The first furrow is usually given across 
the field, which is the best method when only one 
spring furrow is intended; but as it is now ascer ■ 
tained, that two spring furrows are highly advan- 
tageous, the one in winter ought to be given in 
length, which lays the ground in a better situation 
for resisting the rains, and renders it sooner dry in 
spring, than can be the case when ploughed across. 
On the supposition, that three furrows are to be 
given, one in winter, and two in spring, the fol- 
lowing is the most eligible preparation: 
Approved modes of driUiig: 

The land being ploughed in length as early in 
winter as is practicable, and the gaw and headland 
furrows sufiiciently digged out, take the second 
furrow across the first as soon as the ground is dry 
enough in spring to undergo tlie operation; water- 
furrow it immediately, and dig again the gaw and 
head-land furrows, otherwise the benefit of the 
second furrow may be lost. This being done,, 
leave the field for some days, till it is sufficiently 
dry, when a cast of the harrows becomes necessa- 
ry, so that the surface may be levelled. Then 
enter with the ploughs, and form the drills, which 
are generally made up with an interval of 2" inches. 
In the hollow of this interval, deposit the seed by 
a drill-barrow, and reverse or slit out the drills 
to cover the seed, which finishes the process for 
the time. In ten or twelve days afterwards, ac- 
cording to the state of the weather, cross-harrow 
the drills, thereby levelling the field fur the hoeing 
process. Water-furrow the whole in a neat man 
ner, and spade and shovel the gaw and the head- 
land furrows, which concludes the whole process 

This is the most approved way of drilling beans. 



332 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



The next best is to p^ive only one spring farrow, 
and to I'uu the drill-barrow after every third 
plough, in which way, the intervals are nearly of 
the same extent as already mentioned. Harrowing 
is afterwards required, before tiie young plants 
reach the surface, and ■water-furrowing, &c. as 
above described. 

Dung is often given to beans, especially when 
they succeed A\heat which had' not received ma- 
nure. The best way is to apply the dung on the 
stubble before the wjnter furrow is given, whicli 
greatly facilitates the after process. Used in this 
■way, a fore stock must be in hand; but wiiere the 
farmer is not so well provided, spring dunging be- 
comes necessary, thotigh evidently of less advan- 
tage. At that season, it may either be put into tlie 
drills before the seed is sown, or spread upon the 
surface and ploughed down, according to the na- 
ture of the drilling process which is meant to be 
adopted. Land dunged to beans, if duly hoed, is 
always in high order for carrying a crop of wheat 
in succession. Perhaps better wheat, both in re- 
sytect of qvvantity and quality, may be cultivated in 
this way, than in any other mode of sowing. 
Dnlling machines. 
Different machines have been invented for drill- 
ing beans-, but the most common and handy is one 
of the barrow form. Tliis hand drill is pushed 
forward by a man or woman, and will, according 
as the brush or director is lowered or heightened, 
sow thicker or thinner, as may be expedient and 
necessary. , Another machine, drawn by a horse, 
and sowing 3 drills at a time, has been constructed, 
and, upon flat lands, will certainly distribute the 
seed witli the most minute exactness. Upon un- 
'•^ equal fields, and even on those laid out in high 
ridges, the use of this machine is attended with a 
degree of inconvenience sufficient to balance its 
advantages. The hand-drill, therefore, in all 
probability, will be retained for general use, though 
the other is capable of performing the work with 
minuter regularity. 

Quantity of seed. 
Less than 4 bushels ought not to be hazarded, if 
a full crop is expected. We seldom have seen 
thin beans turn out well, unless the soil is particu- 
larly rich: nay, unless the i-ovvs close, weeds will 
get away after the cleaning process is finished, 
thereby disappointing the object of drill-ing, and 
rendering the system of little avail towards keep- 
ing the ground in good condition. 
Hoeing process. 
Beans are cleaned in various ways; 1st. By the 
hand hoe. 2d. By the scraper, or Dutch hoe. 
3d. By a plough of small dimensions, but con- 
structed upon the principles of the approved swing 
plough. Ploughs with double mould-boards are 
likewise used to earth tiiem up; and, with all good 
managers, the weeds in the drills, which cannot be 
touched by the hoe, are pulled out by the hand, 
otherwise no field can be considered as duly 
cleaned. 

In treating of the cleaning process, we shall 
confine ourselves to the one most suited to the 
generality of bean soils. About ten or twelve days 
after the young ])lants have appeared above the 
surface, enter with the scraper, and loosen any 
Weeds that may have vegetated. At this time, the 
■wings, or cutters, of the implement ouglit to be 
particularly sharp, so that the scraper may not run 
too deep, and throw the earth upon the plants. In 
about ten days after the ground is scraped, accord- 
ing to the state of the weather, and other cii-cum- 
stances, use the small swing plough to lay the earth 
away from the sides of the rows; and, in doing so, 
go as near to the plants as possible, taking care, at 
the same time, not to loosen their toots. If any 



weeds stand in the rows, pull them out with the 
han<l; afterwards earlh-up the ]ilants with the small 
swing plough, or run the scraper in the intervals, 
as may seem expedient. 

To manage the harvest. 

Before beans are cut, the grain ought to be tol- 
erably well ripened, otherwise the quality is im- 
jjaired, whilst a long time is required to put the 
straw in such a condition as to be jireserved in tlie 
stack. In an early harvest, or where the crop is 
not weighty, it is an easy matter to c,-et beans suffi- 
ciently ripene<l; but, in a late harvest, and in evei-y 
one where the crop takes on a second growth, it is 
scarcely practicable to get them thoroughly ripen- 
ed for the sickle. Uniler these circumstances, it 
is unnecessary to let beans stand uncut after the 
end of September or the first of October; because 
any benefit that can be gained afterwards, is not to 
be compared with the disadvantages ttiat accom- 
pany a late wheat seed time. Beans are usually 
cut with the sickle, and tied in sheaves, either with 
straw ropes, or with ropes made from pease sown 
along with them. It is proper to let the sheaves 
lie untied several days, so that the winding pro- 
cess may be hastened, and, when tied, .to set them 
up on end, in order that full benefit from air may 
be obtained, and the grain kept off" the ground. 
In building bean stacks, it is an useful measure, 
for preserving both grain and straw from injury, 
to keep an opening in tlie centre, and to convey 
air from the extremity by a hole, or funnel. Beans, 
on the whjle, are a troublesome crop to the far- 
mer, though of great utility in other respects. 
Without them heavy soils can scarcely be managed 
with advantage, unless summer fallow is resorted 
to once in four years; but, by the aid derived frora 
drilled beans, summer fallow mny be avoided for 
eight years, whilst the ground, at that period, will 
be found in equal, if not superior condition. 
To cultivate peas. 

Peas are partially sown with beans to great ad- 
vantage ; and, wheji cultivated in this way, the 
same system of preparation, &c. described under 
the head of beans, is to be adopted. Indeed, upon 
many soils not deep enough for beans, a mixture 
of peas to the extent of one-third of the seed sowa 
proves highly advantageous. The beans serve as 
slabs or props to the peas, and the latter, being 
thus kept oft" the ground, and furnished with air 
and other atmospherical nutriment, blossom and 
pod with much greater effect tlian when sown ac- 
cording to the broad-cast system. 

Peas agree well with lime and other calcareous 
stimulants, and can hardly be reaped in perfection 
where these are wanting. The varieties cultivated 
are numerous; but those adapted to field culture 
may be divided into two kinds, namely, early and 
late, though these branch out again into several 
varieties. We have wliite peas both early and late, 
and likewise grey peas, possessed of similar pro- 
perties. The nomenclature is entirely arbitrary, 
and therefore not to be illustrated. As a general 
rule, the best seed time for late peas is either in 
February or March, though early ones, such as the 
Hastings, or Magpiehill pea, may be sown success- 
fully after the 1st of May. 

Peas ought to be sown tolerably thick so that 
the ground may be covered as early as possible. 
To cultivate tares. 

The tare is a plant of a hardy growth, and when 
sown upon rich land will return a large supply of 
green fodder, for the consumption of horses, or 
for fattening cattle. When intentled for this use, 
the seed ought to be sown tolerably thick, perhaps 
to the extent of four bushels ])er Scots acre, 
though, when intended to stand for seed, a less 
quantity is required; because otherwise the thick- 



HUSBANDRY. 



333 



iiess of the crop will prevent the plants from blos- 
soming and poddins; in a sufficient way. When 
meant for seed, early sowing ought to Ije studied, 
otherwise the return will be imperfect; but when 
for green food, any time betwixt the first of A()ril 
and lly; latter end of May will answer well, pro- 
vided crops in succession from the first to the last 
mentioned period be regularly cultivated. In- 
stances are not wanting of a full crop being ob- 
tained even when tiie seed was sown so late as the 
mifklle of June, thougli sowing so late is a practice 
not to be recommended. Alter the seed is sown, 
and the land carefully harrowed, a light roller 
ought to be drawn across, so that the surface may 
be smoothed, and the scythe permitted to work 
M'it'liout interruption. It is proper also to guard 
the field for several days against the depredations 
of pigeons, who are remarkably fond of ^ares, and 
■will ]iick up a great part of the seed, unless con- 
stantly watched. 

Horses thrive very well upon tares, even better 
than they do upon clover and rye grass; and the 
same remark is applicable to fattening cattle, -who 
feed faster upon tiiis article of green fodder than 
Upon any kind of grass, or esculent, with which 
We are acquainted. Danger often arises from their 
eating too many, especially when podded; as colics, 
tind other stomach disorders, are apt to be pro- 
tiuced by the excessive loads which they devour. 
Potatoes. 

Potatoes, as an article of human food, are, next 
to wheat, of the greatest importance in the eye of 
a political economist. From no other crop that 
can be cultivated will the public derive so much 
food as from tliij valuable esculent; and it admits 
of demonstration, that an acre of potatoes will 
feed double the number of people that can be fed 
from an acre of wheat. Potatoes are also a nour- 
ishing and healthy food, relished almost by every 
palate; and without them it is believed there is 
hardly a dinner served up for shx months of the 
year in any part of the kingdom. 

To prepare the ground. 

To work the ground till it is completely reduced 
and free from root weeds, may be considered as a 
desideratum in potatoe husbandry; though in many 
seusons these operations cannot be perfectly exe- 
cuted, without losing the proper time for planting, 
which never ouglit to be beyond the first of May, 
if circumstances do not absolutely interdict it. 
Three ploughings, with frequent harrowings and 
rollings, are necessary in most cases, before the 
land is in suitable condition. When this is accora- 
jilished, form the drills as if they were for turnips; 
cart the manure, which ought not to be sparingly 
applied, plant the seed above the manure, reverse 
. the drills for covering it and the seed, then harrow 
tlie drills in length, which completes the prepara- 
tion and seed process. 

Quantity of seed. 

It is not advantageous to cut the seed into small 
slips; for the strength of the stem at the outset de- 
pends in direct proportion upon the vigour and 
power of the seed-plant. The seed-plant, there- 
fore, ought to be large, rarely smaller than the 
fourth part of the potatoe; and if the seed is of 
small size, one half of the potatoe may be profita- 
bly used. At all events, rather err in giving over 
large seed than in making it too small; because, by 
the first error, no great loss can ever be sustained; 
whei-eas, by the other, a feeble and late crop may 
be the consequence. When the seed is properly 
cut, it requires from 10 to 12 hundred weight of 
l»otatoes to plant an acre of ground, where the rows 
are at 27 inches distance; but this quantity depends 
greatly upon the size of the potatoes used; if they 
V-e large, a greater weight may be required, but 



the extra qnantit)- will be abundantly repaid by 
the superiority of crop which large seed usually 
I produces. 

Advantageous method of raising them. 

The earth should be dug twelve inches deep, it' 
the soil will allow it; after this, a hole should be 
opened about six inches deep, and horse-dung, or 
long litter, should be put therein, about three inch- 
es thick; tills hole should not be more than twelve 
inches diameter. Upon this dung or litter a pota- 
toe should be planted whole, upon which a little 
more dung should be shaken, and then the earth 
should be put thereon. In like manner the whole 
plot of ground must be planted, taking care that the 
potatoes be at least sixteen inclies apart. WHien 
the young shoots make their appearance, they 
should have fresh mould drawn round them with 
a hoe; and if the tender shoots a;re covered, it will 
prevent the frost from injuring them; they should 
again be earthed when the shoots make a second 
a])pearance, but not covered, as in all probability 
the season will be less severe. 

A plentiful supply of mould should be given 
them, and the person who performs this business 
should never tread upon the plant, or the hillock 
that is raised round it, as the lighter the earth is, 
the more room the potatoe will have to expand. 

A gentleman obtained from a single root, thus 
planted, very nearly forty pounds weight of large 
potatoes; and from almost every other root upon the 
same plot of ground, from fifteen to twenty pounds 
weight; and, except the soil be stony or gravelly, 
ten pounds, or half a peck, of potatoes, may gene- 
rally be obtained from each root, by pursuing the 
foregoing method. 

But note — cuttings, or small sets will not do for 
this purpose. 

JMode of taking up and storing the crop. 

Potatoes are generally dug up with a three- 
proag grape, or fork-; but at other times, when the 
weather is dry, the plough is used, which is the 
most expeditious implement. After gathering the 
interval, the furrow taken by the plough is bro- 
ken and separated, in which way the crop may be 
more completely gathered than when taken up by 
the grape. The potatoes are then stored up for 
winter and spring use; and as it is of importance to 
keep them as long through summer as possible, 
every endeavour ought to be made to preserve 
them from frost, and from sprouting in the spring 
months. The former is accomplished by covering 
them well with straw when lodged in a house, and 
by a thick coat of earth, when deposited in a pitj 
and the latter, by picking them carefully, at dif- 
ferent tinges, when they begin to sprout, diying 
them sufficiently by exposure to the sun; or by a 
gentle toast of a kiln. 

JMethod of cultivating potatoes in Ireland. 

The drill system, in the cultivation of potatoes 
in Ireland, is particularly recommended by Lord 
Farnham, in a letter to Sir John Sinclair. The 
small farmers, and labourers, plant them in lazy- 
beds, eight feet wide. This mode is practised on 
j account of the want of necessary implements for 
practising the drill system, together with a want 
of horses for the same purpose. 

They are cut into sets, three from a large pota- 
toe; and each set to contain at least one eye. The 
sets are planted at the distance of seven inches 
asunder, C^ cwt, are considered sufficient seed for 
an English acre. Lord Farnham recommends rot- 
ten dung in preference to any fresh dung. If not 
to be procured, horse-dung, hot from the dunghill. 
In any soil he would recommend the dung belo«r 
the seed. 

When the potatoes are vegetated ten inches 
above the surface, the scuffler must be introduced. 



334 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



and cast the mould from the potatoe. If any weeds 
are found in tlie drills, they must be band-hoed; 
in thi-ee days afterwards they must be moulded up 
by the double-breasted plough, as high as the neck 
of tlie potatoe. This mode must be practised 
twice, or in some cases three times; particularly if 
the land is foul. I do not (says Loril Faiuham) 
consider any mode so good as the ih-ill system. 
General observations. 
To prepare for the drill system either oat or 
wheat stubble, it should be ploughed in October, 
or the beginning of November; to be plouglied 
deep, and laid up for winter dry. In March let it 
be harrowed, and give it three clean earths. He 
very particular to eradicate the couch grass. The 
drills to be three feet asunder; drill deep the first 
time that tiiere is room in the bottom of tiie fur- 
row to contain the dung. Tiie best time to begin 
planting the potatoes, is about the latter end of 
April, "by this system. It is as good a preparation 
for wheat as the best fallows. 

Three feet and a lialf for drills, are preferable to 
four feet. Mr Curwen prefers four feet and a 
half. He says, the produce is immense. Pota- 
toes ought to be cut at least from two to tlu-ee 
veeks before being planted; and if planted very 
early, whole potatoes are preferable to cut ones, 
and dung under and over. 

To produce early potatoes in great quantity. 
Early potatoes may be |.ioduced in jjreat quan- 
tity by resetting the plants, after taking off tiie 
j-ipe and large ones. A gentleman at Dumfries 
has re-planted tliem six different times in 6ue sea- 
son, williout any additional manure; and, instead of 
falling off in quantity, he gets a larger crop of ripe 
ones at every raising, than the former ones, llis 
T)lants have still on them three distinct crops, and 
lie supY)oses they may still continue to vegetate 
and germinate until they arfe stopped by the frost. 
By this means he has a new cro)) every eiglit days, 
andhashad so for a length of time. 
'To gro-^u potatoes constantly on the same piece of 
ground. 
Let the cuttings be made from tlie finest pota- 
toes, iiisieadof tlie smallest and worst, usually em- 
ployed for the purpose; and it will be found, con- 
trary to what is supposed by farmers, that they 
will not degenerate. The same will happen witli 
respect to ihe seeds of the watery squash, early 
peas, and several other kinds of vegetables. 
To preserve potatoes from frost. 
Tills is best done by filling completely the place 
where they are deposited, whether it be a house or 
a pit, and allowing the place to remain shut dur- 
ing the winter. But tliis cannot be done easily 
■with a potatoe-house, as it cannot be completely 
packed or filled like a pit. Besides, some potatoes 
are generally wanted daily; and thus air is admit- 
ted, and a greater yacuity constantly making, both 
which are very likely to be the means of proving 
.njurious or destructive to what potatoes may be in 
the house, when a severe frost sets in. There is 
110 such thing in nature as a vacuum; therefore, if 
a place is not filled witii some substance or other, 
it will be filled with air. For this reason, pits are 
better for preserving potatoes Irora frost than a 
house, because a pit can be more effectually filled: 
and, by opening a pit when potatoes are wanted, 
and removing the whole into some part of a house, 
and still keeping over them a covering of straw, 
turf, or divot, the potatoes are kept close. A 
potatoe-house, however, is very useful, and what 
every farmer ought to have, as in this house he 
may still keep a small quantity of his crop for 
daily use, by emptying a pit occasionally, and 
keeping them always well covered with straw, as 
nas been already mentioned. 



The potatoe-house ought to be well plastered 
with clay, and perfectly dry before using it. 

Potatoe-pits sliould be made upon ground that 
has a southern exposure, adeejisoil, and declining 
to a considerable distance from the i)it. In a deep 
soil, the pits can be made sufficiently deep, before 
reaching any cold bottom: and the declivity carries 
away water. When the ))its have been fully finish- 
ed, and covered, a sod sliould be cut out all the 
way I'ound the potatoes, and the cut continued a 
little way as the descent points out. A pit of 
about ten feet deep, six wide, and ten long, will 
hold from four to six cart loads of potatoes. The 
covering should consist of straw, fern, ruslies, &u. 
next the potatoe, then the whole of llie earth dug 
out sliould be liirown upon llie iieap; and, last of 
all, a covering of earth or <!ivot, if done in the best 
w:,y. This covering will be about two feel thick. 
Jlnotlier method. 

The best and easiest way of preserving potatoes, 
is for the farmer to di-ive all his jintaloes home, ' 
and to lay them upon di'v ground, without break- 
ing the surface, and as near tlie stables as ))0ssible;. 
putting them in heaps of about three or four carts, 
tiien covering them with straw, and, above that, 
M itli turf, where it can be commanded, or with a 
neat thatching of straw. 'I'ben let a (juantity of 
stable dung, of the roughest kind, and llie newest, 
be laid upon each heap, to remain during the win- 
tei', but which must be removed in the spring. 
As the weather appears severe, the (|uantity of 
dung may be increased at pleasure. If this prac- 
tice were ad;.s|)teil, few or no potatoes would be 
])enetrated by the frost, as none wuuld be in ha- 
zard, except one jiit, or part of it, when it was re- 
moving, or placed in the potatoe-house, during the 
winter season. 

7'o remove frost from potatoes. 

The weather widen soonest injures and destroys 
potatoes, is when the atmosphere is depressed 
with cold to such a degree that it congeals water; 
then potatoes, unless covered, will be frosted; and 
the cover i>roper to preserve them ought to be 
pro])ortioned to the intenseness of the weather. 

Potatoes, when slightly frosted, so as to have ac- 
quired a slight sweet tasie only, often, like an ani- 
mal body suddenly infected by some disorder, 
which it throws off by perspiration, are found 
quite wet, throwing out the frost by a kind of per- 
spiration. When they are in this state, in order 
to recover them, and bring them to a proper taste, 
the whole quantity infected should be turned over, 
and a quantity of mill seeds thrown among them, 
as they are turned over; this both extracts and ab- 
sorbs the injured moisture from the body of the 
jiotatoes infected. But there is still a more power- 
ful remedy than simply mixing them with mill- 
seeds, and that is a small quantity of slacked lime, 
perfectly dry, mixed among the seeds to be used; 
which has a very wonderful effect in recovering 
potatoes that have been considerably injured by 
irost. 

When frosted potatoes are to be used, cither at 
the table, or given to horses, black cattle, or 
swine, plunging ihem in cold water, about half a 
day before using them, is of great advantage; and 
if put into running water, so much the better, as it 
has been proved to be more powerful in extracting 
the frost, gn account of its alterative quality and 
superior purity. 

Another method. 

Another way of removing frost from potatoes, 
when tliey are to be prepared for tiie table, is to 
strip them of tiieir skins, and, if large, to cut them 
into two or more pieces; then to plunge them into 
cold \vater for a considerable time, wilh a handful 
of sail iu the water; and, when put on to be boiled, 



HUSBANDRY. 



336 



put as much salt into the water as possible, not to 
make Hiem too salt, when boiled. 

This is a powerful way of making the potatoe 
throw of!" tlie bad taste and spoiled quality lodged 
in its substance. 

AVlien prepared for horses, black cattle, and 
swine: — Salt, or saltpetre, put among the potatoes, 
and boiled together, will destroy any injiwious 
quality which frost has lodged or brought on. 
Chaft' or oats, bruised in a mill, boiled with the 
frosted potatoes, when designed for horses or 
cattle, tends to desti'oy the bad eftects of the frost. 
Uses to -uildch frosted potatoes mmj be benejicialli) 
applied. 

When potatoes have acquired a disagreeable 
taste i)y means of frost, they « ill make good and 
wholesome l)read, by boiling tliem, as lias been 
racntioned, with salt, mashing or bruising them 
small, tlien kneading tlieiii together with oatnjeal. 
Not less than two-thirds should consist of meal, 
which will destroy the sweet taste; a-iid the dry and 
generous quality of the meal will effectually cor- 
rect and destroy any thing noxious in the injured 
roots. 

Horses, swine, dogs, &c. may all be fed with 
potatoes, though frosted, by boiling them, and 
mixing them with oats coarsely gi-ound, or with 
oat-meal; always adding a good ([uantity of salt or 
salt-petre in the mixture. Poultry also may be fed 
with potatoes very much frosted, if n)ixed with 
oat-mt-al in about equal proportions, without salt, 
as this species of animal cannot admit of it. 
Further ii%es of frosted puiatoes. 

Potatoes frosted, when tliree tinits distilled, 
jtroduce a spirit from hydrometer proof to ten per 
cent, over proof; therefore a principal purpose and 
use to which they may be tui-ned, is the making 
of :ilcohol; more particularly as that article is use- 
ful for many purposes where strength is its princi- 
pal recoramendatiou. The ordinary str-ength that 
sl)irils are run, [irepar-atory to coiivertiirg them into 
alcohol, is from 40 to 50 per cent, over proof by 
Dicas; which, re-distilled fi'om calcined carbonate 
of potash, will produce alcohol at S'-5, water being 

ioo;>. 

Wlien potatoes are frosted to such a degree as 
to be useless for food from their sweet taste, they 
are very useful to weavers in dressing their yarn, 
and, particularly cotton. Tijey are prepared for 
this purpose by boiling them well; then mash or 
beat them small; then put them into a vessel, 
adding a little b.arm, drippings of ale or porter 
barrels: allowing them to stand two or three months 
to ferment. 

Shoemakers may use it also; only, as their paste 
requires more solidity and gi'eater strength, tlour 
is generally mixed along with the fermented pota- 
toes, in about equal proportions. 

Bookbinders also may use this paste, alum being 
mixed to assist the strength of the composition. 
And it may be beneficially used by paper stainers 
mid upholsterers, when made up with a mixture 
of flour and alum. 

When potatoes are so penetrated with frost that 
they have become quite soft, tiiey are useless for 
man or beast; but make excellent manure for light 
sharp soils; and for this purpose are worth about 
one-fifth or sixth of their original value. In Ber- 
wickshire, and other places, where it is a great 
object to get their straw turned into dung, the 
value of tlie frosted potatoe is still greater, as it 
assists the farmer in that operation. 

To make starch from frosted potatoes. 

PolatofS much frosted will make very good 
starch; though it is a shade darker in colour. All 
coarse cloths requiring to be stifl'ened, where 
whiteness is no object, may be done with st.irch 



made from potatoes greatly penetrated with frost. 
The best method of making potatoes into starch, 
is to grate Ihera down among water, then to take 
out all the refuse with the hand, and next to strain 
the whole of the water in which the potatoes hav« 
been grated, througli a thin cloth, rather coarse, 
or fine sieve, and afterwards freipiently putting on 
and pouring off water-, until it comes clear from 
the starch, which is always allowed to settle or 
fall to the bottom of the vessel in which the opera- 
tion is performed. An experiment was tried with 
a few j)otatoes that were put out to frost. They 
were graterl down, and made into stai'ch powder: 
The proiluce of the fr-esh potatoe weighed 87f> 
grains, wiiile that of the frosted was only 412, 
being less than half the quantity. 

I'lie refuse of the potatoe, when taken from the 
sieve, possesses tlie property of cleansing woollen 
cloths without inn-ting their coloui-s; and ilie water 
decanted from the starch powdt-r is excellent for 
cleansing silks, Avithout the smallest injmy to their 
colour. In making hair-powder it has ^ong beeu 
used, and is therefore well known. 
Turnips. 

The benefits derived fi-om turnip husbandry are 
of great magnitude; light soils are cultivated with 
profit and facility; abundance of food is ])r-ovide(l 
for man and beast; the earth is turned to the uses 
for which it is physically Ciilculated: and by being 
suitably cleaned with this preparatory croj), a be<l 
is provided for grass seeds, wbereir) ihrv flour-ish 
and prosper with greater vigour thuu after any 
other preparation. 

To prepare t/n; ground. " 

The first ploughing is given immediately after 
harvest, or as soon as the wlieat seed is finished, 
either in length or across the field, as cii-cumstan- 
ces may seem to requir-e. In this stattythe gi-ound 
remains till the oat seed is finisiied, when a secoinl 
ploughing is given tx» it, usually in a contrary di- 
rection to the first. It is then repeatedly harrowed, 
often rolled between the harrowings, and evei-y 
particle of root-weeds carefully picked off with t!ie 
hand; a thirti ploughing is then bestowed, and the 
other ojjerations are repeated, in this stage, if 
the ground has not been very foul, the seed process 
generally commences; but often a fouririi plough- 
ing, sometimes a fifth, is necessai-y, before the 
ground is sufliciently clean. Less labour, however, 
is necessary now than in former times, when a 
more regular mode of cropping was commonly 
followed. 

To soiv the seed. 

The next part of the process is the sowing of the 
seed; this, almost in every case since turnips were 
introiluced into this counti-y, has been performed 
by drilling machines, of different sizes and con- 
structions, though all acting on the same princi- 
ple. At this time, the machine is drawn by a 
horse in a pair of shafts, sows two drills at a time, 
and answers extremely well, where the gi-ound is 
fiat, and the drills properly made up. Tlie weigiit 
of the machine ins.ures a regulaiity of sowing 
hardly to be gained by those of a diilerent size and 
construction. From two to three pounds of seed 
are sown upon the aci-e, though the smallest of 
these quantities will give many more plants, in 
ordinary seasons, than are necessary; but as the 
seed is not an expensive article, the greater part 
of farmers incline to sow thick, which both jiro 
vides against the danger of part of the seed perish- 
ing, and gives the young plants an advantage at 
tlie outset. 

Turnips are sown from the beginning to the end 
of June; but the second and third weeks of the 
month are, by judicious farmers, accounted the, 
most proper time. Some people have sown -as 



336 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



early as Mar, and with advantag;e; but these early 
fields are apt to run to seed before winter, espe- 
cially if the autumn be favourable to vegetation. 
As a general rule, it may be laid down, that the 
earliest sowings sbould be on the latest soils; plants 
on such soils are often long before they make any 
great itrogress; hnd, in tlie end, may be far behind 
those in other situations, wiiich were much later 
sown. The turnip plant, indeed, does not thrive 
rapidly till its roots reacli the dung; and the pre- 
vious nourishment afforded them is often so scanty 
fls to stunt thera altogether liefore they get so far. 
Cleaning process. 

The first thing to be done in this process is to 
run a horse-hoe, provincially termed a scraper, 
along tiie intervals, keeping at such a distance from 
the young plants that tliey shall not be injured; 
this operation destroys all the annual weeds which 
have sprung up, and leaves the plants standing in 
regular stripes or rows. The hand-hoeing then 
commences, by which the tui'nips are all singled 
out, at a distance of from eight to twelve inches, 
and the redundant ones drawn into the spaces be- 
tween the rows. The singling out of the young 
plants is an operation of great importance, for an 
error committed in this process can hardly be af- 
terwards rectified. Boj's and girls are always em- 
ployed as hners; but a steady and trusty man-ser- 
vant is usually set over tliem, to see that the work 
be properly executed. 

la eight or ten days, or snch a length of time as 
eircumslances may retjuire, a horse-hoe of a fiif- 
ferent construction from the scraper is used. This, 
in fact, is generally a small plough, of the same 
kind witii that commonly wrought, but of smaller 
dimensions. By this implement, the earth is 
jtared away from the sides of the drills, and a sort 
of new ridge formed in the middle of the former 
interval. The hand-hoers are again set to work, 
and every weed and surperfluoas tui'nip is cut up; 
afterwards the horse-hoe is emi)loyed to separate 
the earth, which it formerly threw into the fur- 
rows, and lay it back to the sides of the drills. 
On dry lands this is done by the scraper; but where 
the least tendency to moisture prevails, the small 
l)lough is used, in order that the furrows may be 
perfectly cleaned out. This latter mode, indeed, 
IS very generally practised. 

To cultivate the yellow turnip. 

Tills variety, as now cultivated ir, the field, is 
quite different from the yellow garden turnip, be- 
ing larger in size, containing more juice, or nu- 
tritive substance, nuicli easier cultivated, and pre- 
serving its powers till the middle of May, when the 
grass-season may be expected. Upon ordinary 
soils it is superior to ruta naga, because it will 
grow to a considerable weight, where the other 
woulil be stunted or starved; and it stands the frost 
equally well. No farmer who keeps stock to any 
extent" should be witlwut it. The mode of culture 
required is in every respect similar to what is sta- 
ted concerning common turnips, with these ex- 
ceptions, that earlier sowing is necessary, and that 
the plants need not be set out so wide as they do 
not swell to such a size. 

Ruta bhga or Swedish turnip. 

The process of management is precisely the same 
witii that of turnips, with tliis addition, that more 
dung is required, and that seed time ought to be 
three or four weeks earlier. Rich soil, however, 
is required for this article: for it will not grow to 
any size wolthwliile, on soils of middling quality, 
vhatever quantity of dung may be applied. 

Ruta baga is of great advantage in tlie feeding of 
horses, either wiien given raw or boiled, or with 
broken corn. If a sutficient quantity were cultiva- 
ted, a great deal of grain might be saved, while 



the health and condition oFthe working stock wonid 
be greatly invigorated and augmented. An even- 
ing feed of this nutritious article would be of in- 
calculable benefit; even most horses are fond of the 
common turnip in a raw state; and it is a subject 
well worthy of every farmer's attention, whether 
it would not be <br his interest to raise these escu- 
lents in such a quantity as to serve them during the 
long period wfien grass cannot be obtained. That 
the health of the animals would thereby be bene-' 
tited is unquestionable; and tlie saving of grain 
would greatly exceed the trouble occasioned by 
furnishing a daily supply of these roots. 
To destrotj tlie fly on iitniips. 

Lime sown by the hand, or distributed by a ma-' 
cliine, is an infallible protection to turnips against 
the ravages of the fly. It should be applied as soon 
as the turiiips come up, and in the same daily ro- 
tation in Avliich they were sown. The lime should 
be slaked immediately before it is used; if the air 
be not sufficiently moist to render that operation 
unnecessary. 

Another method. — Let the farmer carefully ■watch 
his turnips as they come vip, and whenever the fly 
makes its appearance, take a certain quantity of 
brimstone, about 2^ or 3 lbs. to an acre; put this 
into a kettle, and melt it in the turnip-field, in a 
situation the most eligible for the wind to carry the 
fume over the ground; then take any combustible 
matter calculated to make a considerable smoke, 
which, being dipped in the liquid brimstone, must 
be strewed all over the field in a state of igintion, 
and so close together that the fumes of the burning 
matter may completely cover every part of the 
gi-ound. The oecoction of the bitter almond is 
more fatal to the lives of insects and worms than 
any other vegetable or mineral poison. It is made 
by infusing tlie bitter almond powder (the ground 
cakes that remain after expressing the oil) in warm 
water for 24 hours; 28 lbs. (wbicii may be pur- 
chased for 5s.) will make 40 gallons, a sufficiiiut 
quantity for a large garden. 

Jiemedij against the bite of the turnip fy. 

It is upon the principle of creating an oftensive 
smell that turnip seed is recommended to be steep- 
ed in train oil before it is sown. This has been 
found to be a perfect security against the bite of 
the turnip fly. 

To prevent thejly in tiirnips. 

Sow good and fresh seed in well-manured and 
well-prepared ground. 

To prevent the increase of pismires in grass lands 
ne^uly laid down. 

Make a strong decoction of walnut-tree leaves, 
and after opening several of the pismire's sandy 
habitations, jiour upon them a quantity of the li- 
quor, just sufficient to fill the hollow of each heap; 
after the middle has been scooped, throw in the 
contents from the sides, and press down the whole 
mass with the foot, till it becomes level with the 
rest of the field. This if not found effectual at first 
must be repeated a second or a third time, when 
they infallibly will be destroyed. 
To prevent groxumg crops from the devastation of 
vermin. 

The good effects of elder in preserving plants 
from insects and Hies, are experienced in the fol- 
lowing cases: — 

1. For preventing cabbage and caidiflower 
plants from being devoured and damaged by cater- 
pillars. 

2. For preventing blights, and their effects on 
fruit-trees. 

3. For preserving corn from yellow flies and 
other insects. 

4. F'or securing turnips from the ravages of flies. 
The dwarf elder appears to exhale a much more 



HUSBANDRY. 



537 



fetid smell than the common elder, and therefore 
should Be preferred. 

']'o oheck the ravages nfthe tiirnipflxi. 
Suppose that the farmer lias no olrjection to he- 
stow 5 lbs. of seed ))er acre in order to secure his 
crop of turnips. If he sows hroad-cast, let him 
, medicate one half of the seed, in the manner to be 
afterwards exphiined, leaving the other half unpre- 
pared. The latter may be soVvn one dav, and the 
medicated a day or two after, so as to give a start 
. to the other. The medicated will, in that case, es- 
cape from the attacks of the fly or beetle. If the 
slug, however, does appear, rolling in the night is 
necessar)'. If the farmer drills his turnips, after 
the land is prepared for the drill, 2^ lbs. of the un- 
medicated seed should he sown broad-cast, and a 
rfay or two afterwards the medicated seed, sown in 
the drills. In this way a crop may be obtained at 
least by the industrious farmer, who does not 
grudge a little trouble to secure a good one. He 
viU find that the plants sown broad-cast will give 
full employment to the fly, till the less savouiT' 
plants in tlie drill pass the moment of danger. As 
to preparing or medicating the seed; sulphur is so 
obnoxious to the whole insect tribe, and at the 
same time so favourable to vegetation, that it seems 
entitled to a preference. The turnip seed may 
be a little damped, and then mixed with the flour 
ofsulpliur, at the rate of two ounces of sulphur to 
one pound of seed; or let the seed he steeped in a 
liquor, formed by boiling three parts of lime to 
one of sulphur, and 100 parts of water. This steep 
is much ajiproved of for all such purposes. It is 
not improbable that the same liquid in which wheat 
is commonly pickled would prove a preservative 
against the fly. It may be proper to add, that 
•when the season is very diy, it has been found a 
most useful practice to moisten the dung well, before 
it is inserted into the drill; to spread the dung very 
rapidly in the rows, and instantly to sow, at the rate 
of four pounds of turnip-seed per acre, upon the 
dung. The ground should then be gathered up 
into bouts, 27 inches wide, by the going and returning 
of the plough. The seeds are thus put in con- 
tact with the wet dung. Many perish, but a suffi- 
cient number escape to produce a good crop. In 
this case, the sowing any unmedicated seed broad- 
cast, may be dispensed with. 

To cultivate san-foin. 
Chalky loams and gravelly soils on a calcareous 
bottom are most proper for this grass. It is more 
adapted to hay than pasture; and much heavier 
crops of tbis grass are obtained from thin lands 
than when clover is sown. San-foin is a hardy 
kind of grass, well worth the attention of cuUiva- 
tors in upland districts, where the soil is obdurate 
and shallow, and where clover and rye-grass can 
■with difficulty he raised to such a height as to stand 
the scythe. When sown, fresh seed ought con- 
stantly to be used, as the vegetation of old seed 
cannot be depended upon. Four bushels may be 
lised for an acre; and great care ought to be taken 
to cover the seed well, and to ])Ut it deeper into 
the ground than the seeds of oilier grasses. 
To preserve grain from vermin. 
To preserve rye, and secure it from insects and 
rats, nothing more is necessary than not to winnow 
it after it is threshed, and to stow it in the grana- 
ries mixed with the chaff. In this state it has been 
kept for more than three years, without experi- 
encing the smallest alterations, and even wiihout 
the necessitj' of being turned, to preserve it from 
humidity and fermentation. Rats am' micetnay 
be prevented from entering the barn, by putting 
some wild vine or hedge plants upon the heaps: 
the smell of this wood is so offensive to these ani- 
mals that they will not approach it. 
2S 



To prevent the destn/ciion of corn by insects. 
In laying the floors of a granai-y, let Italian pop- 
lars be made use of for the timber. Many exper- 
iments show that granaries, after laying down this 
flooring, will no longer be infested with weevils, 
8cc. 

To destroy slugs upon -wheat. 
Collect a number of lean ducks; keep them all 
day without food, and turn them into the fields to- 
wards evening; each duck would devour the slugs 
much faster than a man could collect them, and 
they would soon get very fat for market. 

To prer^ent tlie ravages of mice in coin stacks. 
The following simple remedy against the depre- 
dations of mice in corn stacks, has lately been re- 
commended for its undoubted efficacy. Sprinkle 
from 4 to 6 bushels of dry white sand upon the root 
of the stack before the thatch is put on. The sand 
is no detriment to the corn, and stacks thus dress- 
ed have remained without mjury. So very effec- 
tive is tlie remedy, that nests of dead young mice 
have been found where the sand has been used, 
but not a live mouse could be seen. 
7'o clear barns ajul out-hoxises from mites and 
•weevils. 
The following method is practised in Germany, 
for granaries infested with mites and weevils. Let 
the walls and rafters, above and below, of sucli 
granaries be covered completely with quick-lime, 
slaked in water, in which trefoil, wormwood, and 
hyssop, have been boiled. This composition should 
be applied as hot as possible. A farmer, who had 
the granaries empty in June last, collected quanti- 
ties of the largest sized ants in sacks, and scatter- 
ed them about the places infested with weevils. 
The ants immediately fell upon and devoured 
them all. 

To destroy slugs on land. 
Procure some fresh lime, and after throwing as 
much water upon it as will reduce it to a powder, 
sow the lime in a hot state upon the land that is 
overrun with the vermin, at the rate of about 12 
bushels to the acre. The lime should be sown to- 
wards the wind, and falling upon them in a fer- 
mented state, it will instantly kill them. 
Usefulness of the hedgehog. 
This little animal, the object of persecution, not 
only to little boys, but to the fuomer, and game- 
keeper, on account of its supposed mischievous 
propensities, is in fact one which the agricultur- 
ist should endeavour to preserve; as it is the mo^ ' 
eflectua! destroyer of snails, worms, and insectV, 
and on which it almost entirely subsists. A gardea 
in which a hedge-hog is kept, will, in the course 
of two or three nights, be entirely freed from slugs; 
and that enemy to fruit, the millepede, is a favour- 
ite food to him. The London gardeners are so 
aware of this as often to purchase hedgehogs to put 
in tb'jir grounds. The opinion that this animal 
sucks cows is too absurd lo require refutation. 
The mouth of the hedgehog is too small to lay 
hold of the teat of a cow, even if it could be be- 
lieved by any reflecting person that she would suf- 
fer its sharp bristles to touch her; and if it ever 
has been found eating poultry or game, as has by 
some been asserted, they must previously have 
been killed by rats, weasels, or some more fero- 
cious animal than the hedgehog, whose habits are 
those of gentleness and timidity, who is not form- 
ed for attack, and whose sole mode of defence i» 
rolling itself up in a ball and opposing its cti^onj 
prickles to the enemy. This statemei.i is the re- 
sult of two years' observation on the nature and 
mode of life of the hedgehog; and is given in the 
hoi)e of rescuing a harmless and useful creature 
from the general abhorrence in which it is held, 
and the unmerciful treatment it meets with. 

2 i> 



338 



UNIYERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To destroy weeds. 

To clear the ground of weeds is an operation no 
less necessary in husbandry, than the disposing it 
to produce vegetables of any kind in plenty. 

Anmtal vjeeds, or such as spring from seed, and 
«1ie the same yeai-, are most easily destroyed. For 
this purpose, it will be sufficient to let them spring 
up till near the time of ripening their seed, and 
then plough them down before it comes to maturi- 
ty. It is also of service to destroy such weeds as 
grow in borders, or neglected corners, and fre- 
•juently scalter their seeds to a great distance; such 
as the thistle, dandelion, rag-weed, Sec; for these 
are sufficient to propagate tlieir species through a 
deal of ground, as tiieir seeds are carried about 
ivith the wind to very considerable distances. A 
farmer ought also to take care, that the small seeds 
of weeds, separated from corn in winnowing, be 
not sown again upontlie ground; for this certainly 
happens when they are thrown upon a dung hill; 
because, being the natural offspring of the earth, 
they are not easily destroyed. The best method of 
preventing any mischief from this cause is to burn 
them. 

Perennial weeds are such as are propagated by 
the roots, and last for a number of years. They 
cannot be effectually destroyed, but by removing 
the roots from the ground, which is often a matter 
of some difficult)'. The only method that can be 
<lepended upon in this case, is frequent ploughing, 
to render the ground as tender as possible; and 
harrowing with a partic»ilar kind of liarrow, in or- 
der to collect these pernicious roots. When col- 
lected, they ought to be dried and burnt, as the 
only effectual method of insuring their doing no 
farther mischief. 

To destroy broom, furze, and thorns. 

Besides those kinds ol weeds, which are of an 
herbaceous nature, there are others wliich are 
woody, and gi-ow to a very considerable size; such 
as broom, furze, and thorns. The fii'stmaybe de- 
stroyed by frequent ploughing and harrowing, in 
the same manner as other perennial weeds are. 
Another method of destroying broom, is by pas- 
turing the field where it grows with sheep. 

Tlie best method of extirpating furze, is to set 
fire to it in frosty weather; for frost has tlie effect 
of withering and making them burn readily. The 
stumps must then be cut over witlx a hatchet; and 
when the gi'ound is well softened by rain, it may 
be ploughed up, and the roots taken out by a har- 
row adapted to that purpose. If the field is soon 
laid down to grass, they will again spring up; in 
this case, pasturing with sheep is an effectual 
remedy. The thorn, or bramble, can only be ex- 
tirpated by ploughing up the ground and collecting 
the roots. 

Usefulness of moving weeds, 

111 the month of June weeds are in their most 
succulent state, and in this condition, after they 
have lain a few hours to wither, hungry cattle will 
eat greedily almost every species. There is 
scarcely a hedge, border, or a nook, but what at 
that season is valuable; and it certainly must be 
good management to embrace the transient oppor- 
tunity; for in a few weeks they will become nui- 
sances. 

To banish crows from a field. 

Machinery of various kinds, such as wind-mills 
in miniature, horse-rattles, &c. to be put in motion 
by the wind, are often employed to frighten crows: 
but with all of these, they soon become familiar; 
when they cease to be of any use whatever. 

The most effectual method of banishing them 
from a field, as far as experience goes, is to com- 
bine with one or other of the scare-crows in vogue, 
the frer^uciit use of the musket, ^'othing strikes 



^ such terror into these sagacious animal^ as the 
sight of a fowling piece, and the explosion of gun- 
powder, which they have known so often to be 
fatal to their race. Such is their dread of a fowl- 
ing-piece, that if one is placed upon a dyke, or 
other eminence, it will for a long time prevent 
them from alighting on the adjacent grounds. 
To culiivaie carrots. 

To command crops of this root, manure tie land 
with 25 or 30 loads of dung per acie, pretty rotten; 
plough it in, and then cover the seed by harrow- 
ing. The dung neither injures the taste of the 
carrot, makes them grow deilbrmed,.nor causes the 
canker. A farmer's object is to produce as great 
a quantity as possible from every acre, which must 
undoubtedly be accomplished by manure. In con- 
firmation of this opinion, the following statement 
is given: — 

Unmanured carrots, sown J\Iarch 31, 1808. 
Ton. Stone. 

Roots 9 137 per acre. 

Tops 4 24 do. 

jManured after potatoes, sown April 7, 1808. 
Ton. Stone. 

Roots 12 113 per acre. 

Toi)s 5 71 do. 

The soil in both were exactly the same; and the 
dung half rotten. The preceding crop had in both 
instances been potatoes, and the qirality of the car- 
rots was similar in both cases. An extensive col- 
lection of sucli well authenticated experiments ar9 
better calculated to extend the boundaries of agri- 
cultural knowledge, than all the theories imd mero 
reasonings upon them, yet published. 

Mode of cultivating parsnips in Guernsey. 

Although this root is cultivated in almost all the 
soils of that island, that is esteemed the best which 
consists of a good liglit loam, the deeper the bet- 
ter. If the loamy soil is not deep, the under soil 
at least should be opened, to allow of the free 
penetration of the roots. 

If the land is not perfectly clear from couch grass 
and other weeds, it is pared with the paring-plough 
in October, and harrowed to remove the weeds. 
About the middle of February, the land is prepared 
for sowing by means of 2 ploughs. A small 
plough precedes, and opens the furrow to the depth 
of four inches, and is followed by a large plough 
drawn by four or six oxen and as many horses, 
which deepens the furrow to ten or fourteeu 
inches. As soon as the clods are capable of being 
broken, tlie harrowing commences, and is repeateil 
till the soil is pulverized, and reduced nearly to 
the state of garden mould. The whole of the pro- 
cesses are intended to loosen the soil to as great a 
depth as possible. 

The seed should not be more than a year old, as 
it is uncertain when of a greater age. It is sowa 
broad-cast, and on a day just so windy as to insure 
its regular spreading over the surface. The seed 
is then covered by the harrow. The quantitj 
sown is from 3 to 4 quarts. 

As soon as the plants are sufficiently strong, they 
are band-weeded and thinned, and this operation 
must be repeated at least three times during tlie 
summer. The distance between the plants is ul- 
timately about nine inches; and to save a poilion 
of the Ir.bour, a harrowing is sometimes given bd^ 
tween the first and second weedings. 

The first weeding is performed about the middle 
of May, and repeated when necessary, till the be- 
ginning of July. 

The roots are dug up about the middle of Au- 
gust, when they are thought to be most nutritious 
and to fatten animals better than after the leavev 
are decayed. The quantity dug up at this season 
is not moie than is reijuired tor two or three days' 



HUSBANDRY. 



339 



consiimpfion. It is only in October that the root 
is fully ripe, when it may be dug up with forks, 
and preserved dry in sheds during; the winter; but 
it is usually left in the ground in Guernsey, where 
frost is rare, and taken up as it is wanted. 

The parsnip is considered hy the Guernsey far- 
mers to be the most nutritious root known, superior 
even to the carrot and the potatoe. When small, it 
is given to the animals whole, but when large, it 
is sliced longitudinally. Hogs prefer this root to 
all others, and it makes excellent pork. Horses 
are equally fond of the parsnip, although from 
eating it with too much avidity it sometimes sticks 
in the throat. But this may easily be prevented by 
cutting the roots into pieces before they are given. 
To cultivate hemp. 
'J he soil. 

Tlie soils most suited to tlie culture of this plant, 
are those of the deej), black, putrid vegetable kind, 
that are low, and ratiier inclined to nioistuie, and 
those of the deei> mellow, loamy, or sandy descrip- 
tions. The quantity of produce is generally much 
greater on the former than on the latter; but it is 
.«aid to be greatly inferior in quality. It may, how- 
ever, be grown with success on lands of a less rich 
and fertile kind, by proper care and attention in 
their culture and preparation. 

To prepare the ground. 

In order to render the grounds proper for the 
reception of tlie crop, they should be reduced into 
a fine mellow stale of mould, and be perfectly 
cleared from weeds, by repeated ploughing. When 
it succeeds grain crops, the work is mostly accom- 
plished by three ploughings, and as many han-ow- 
ings: the first being given immediatel)' after the 
preceding crop is removed, the second early in the 
spring, and tlie last, or seed earth, just before the 
seed is to be put in. In the last ploughing, well 
rotted manure, in the proportion of 15 or '20, or 
good compost, in the quantity of 25 or 33 horse 
cart loads, should be turned into the laad; as with- 
out this it is seldom that good crops can be pro- 
duced. The surface of the ground being left per- 
fectly flat, and as free from furrows as.possible; as 
by thes^ means tlie moisture is more eiTectually re- 
tained, and the growtli of the plants more fully 
promoted. 

Quantity of seed, &c. 
• It is of much importance in the cultivation of 
hemp crops, that the seed be new, and of a good 
qualitj', which may in some measure be known by 
its feeling heavy in the hand, and being of a bright 
shining colour. 

The proportion of seed that is most commonly 
employed, is from two to three bushels, according 
to the quality of the land; but, as the crops are 
greatly injured by the plants standing too closely 
together, two bushels, or two bushels and a half, 
may be a more advantageous quantity. 

As the hemp plant is extremely tender in its 
early growth, care should be taken not to put the 
seed into the ground at so early a period, as that it 
may be liable to be injured by the eftects of frost; 
nor to protract the sowing to so late a season, as 
that the quality of the produce may be affected. 
The best season, on the drier sorts of land, in the 
southern districts, is, as soon as possible after the 
frosts are over in April, and, on the same descrip- 
tions of soil, in the more northern ones, towards 
the close of the same month, or early in the ensu- 
ing one. 

Metliod of solving. 

The most general method ot putting crops of 
this sort into the soil is the broadcast, the seed 
being dispersed over the surface of the land in as 
even a manner as possible, and afterwards covered 
in by means of a very liglit harrowing, lu many 



cases, however, especially where the crops are to 
stand for seed, tlie drill method in rows, at small 
distances, might be had recourse to with advan- 
tage; as, in this way, ttie early growth of the 
plants would be more fift'ectually promoted, and 
the land be kept in a more clean and perfect state 
of mould, which are circumstances of importance 
in such crops. In whatever method the seed is 
put in, care must constantly be taken to keep the 
birds from it for some time afterwards. 

This sort of crop is frequently cultivated on the 
same pieces of ground for a great number of years, 
without any other kind of intervening; but, in such 
cases, manure must be applied with almost every 
cvop, in ])retty large proportions, to prevent tlie 
exhaustion that must otherwise take place. It may- 
be sown after most sorts of grain crops, especially 
where the land possesses sufficient fertility, and is 
in a proper state of tillage. 

Jlfter culture. 

As hemp, from its tall growth and thick foliage, 
soon covers the surface of the land, and prevents 
the rising of weeds, little attention is necessary 
after tiie seed has been put into tlie ground, espe- 
cially where the broa<lcrfst method of sowing is 
practised; but, when put in by the drill machine, a 
hoeing or two may be had recourse to with advau» 
tage in the early growth of the crop. 

In the culture of this plant, it is pai-ticularly 
necessary that the same piece of land contains both 
male and female, or what is sometimes denominated 
simple hemp. The latter kind contains the seed. 

When the crop is ripe, (which is known by its 
becoming of a whitish-yellow colour, and a few of 
tlie leaves beginning to drop from the stems; this 
happens commonly about 13 or 14 weeks from the 
period of its being sown, according as the season 
may be di-y or wet (the first sort being mostly ripe 
some weeks before the latter), the next operation 
is that of taking it from the ground; which is ef- 
fected by pulling it up by v!ie roots, in small par- 
cels at a time, by the hand, taking care to shake off 
the mould well from them before the handsful aie 
lajd down. In some districts, the whole crop is 
pulled together, without any distinction being 
made between the difitrent kinds of hemp; w hiie, 
in others, it is the practice to separate and pull 
them at different times, according to their ripeness. 
The latter is obviously tlie better practice; as by 
pulling a large proportion of the crop before it is 
in a proper state of maturity, the quantity of pro- 
duce must not only be considerably lessened, but its 
quality gi'eatly injured by being rendered les3 
durable. 

After being thus pulled, it is tied up in small par- 
cels, or what are sometimes provincially termed 
baits. 

^Vliere crops of this kind are intended for seed- 
ing, they should be suffered to stand till the seed 
becomes in a perfect state of maturity, which is 
easily known by the appearance of it on inspection. 
The stems are then pulled and bound up, as iu the 
other case, the bundles being set up in the same 
manner as grain, until the seed becomes so diy and 
firm as to shed freely. It is then either immedi- 
ately threshed out upon large cloths for the pur- 
pose in the field, or taken home to have the opera- 
tion afterwards performed. 

JProcess of grassing hemp. 

The hemp, as soon as pulled, is tied up in small 
bundles, frequently at both ends. 

It is then conveyed to pits, or ponds of stagnant 
■water, about six or eight feet in depth, such as 
nave a clayey soil being in general prefeired, and 
deposited in beds, according to their size, and 
deptli; the small bundles being laid both in -a 
Straight direction and crosswise of each other, so 



340 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



as (0 biiul perfectlv to!!;ellier; the -whole being 
iomled with timlicr,' or other in:»terials, so as to 
keep the beds of hemp just below the surface of 
the water. 

It is not usual fo water more than 4 or 5 times 
in the same pit, till it has bei-n filled with water. 
"Wiiere the pnnds are not suflicieiitly large to con- 
tain the whole of the produce at once, it is the 
practice to pull the heinp only as it can be admit- 
ted into tliem, it l)eing thought disadvantageous to 
leave the hemp upon the ground, after being pull- 
ed. It is left in these pits four, five, or six days, 
or even more, according to the warmth of the sea- 
son, and the judgment "of the operator, on his ex- 
amining whether the hempy material readily sepa- 
i-ales from the reed or stem; and then taken up and 
convcved to a pasture field, which is clean and 
even, the bundles being loosened, and spread out 
thinly, stem by stem, turning it every second or 
third dav, especially in damp weather, to prevent 
its being injured by worms or other insects. It 
should remain in this situation fof two, tiiree, four, 
or more weeks, according to circumstances, and 
be then collected together when in a perfectly dry 
state, tied up into large 'bundles, and placed in 
some secure building, until an opportunity is af- 
forded for breaking it, in order to separate the 
hemp. By this means the process of grassing is 
not only shortened; but the more expensive ones 
of breaking, scutching, and bleaching the yarn, 
rendered less violent and troublesome. 

After the hemp has been removed from the field, 
it is in a state to be broken and swingled, opera- 
tions that are mostl)'' performed by common la- 
bourers, by means of machinery for the purpose, 
the produce being tied up in stones. The refuse, 
collected in the latter processes, is denominated 
sheaves, and is in some districts employed for the 
jiurposes of fuel. After having undergone these 
(iifferent operations, it is ready for tlie purposes of 
the manufacturer. 

To ailih'atejlax. 

The soils most suitable for flax, besides the al- 
luvial kind, are deep friable loams, and such as 
contain a large proportion of vegetable matter in 
their composition. Strong clays do not answer 
Avell, nor soils of a gravelly or dry sandy nature. 
But whatever be the kind of soil, it ought neither 
to be in loo poor nor too rich a condition; because, 
in the latter case, the flax is apt to grow too luxu- 
riant, and to produce a coarse sort; and, in the for- 
mer case, the plant, from growing weakly, affords 
only a small produce. 

To prepare the grotind. 

When ^rass land is intended for flax, it ought to 
be broken up as early in the season as possible, so 
that the soil may be duly mellowed by the winter 
frosts, and in good order for being reduced by tiie 
harrows, when the seed process is attempted. If 
flax is to succeed a corn crop, the like care is re- 
quired to procure the aid of frost, without which 
the surface cannot be rendered fine enough for re- 
ceiving the seed. Less frost, however, will do in 
the last, than in the first case; therefoie the grass 
laud ought always to be earliest ploughed. At seed 
time, iiarrow the land well before the seed is dis^ 
Iributed, then cover the seed to a sufiicient depth, 
by giving a close double time of the harrows. 
Water-furrow the land, and remove any stones and 
roots that may remain on the surtaee, which 
iiiiislies the seed process. 

Quantity of seed. 

When a crop of seed is intended to be taken, 
thin sowing is prefcrabla, in order that the plants 
may have room to fork or spread out their leaves, 
and to obtain air for the Wossoming and filling sea- 
5KH1S. But it is a mistake to sow thin, Mhen flax 



is intended to be taken; for the crop thenbecornfes 
coarse, and often unproductive. P'rom eight to 
ten pecks per acre is a proper ([uantity in the last 
case; but when seed is the object, six pecks will 
do very well. 

To save lJ\e jlar and seed. 

Flax should be pulled when the lowei- part of the 
plant brgins to turn yellow, and when, on opening 
the pods, the most f irward of the seeds are found 
in a soft state, and the middle of the seeds is green; 
while the seed is (|uite soft, the flax should be 
spread on the ground, in bundles about as much as 
a woman can grasp with both hands, and it should 
remain so, till the uppei- part is dry: in fine weather 
it will be dry in 24 or 48 hours; the bundles shoula 
be then made up, with the dry part inside, and 
then set up in stocks, of ten bunilles each, and 
stand on the ground till the whole is dry, pods and 
all; the seed will then be ripe, and the flax in the 
best state; it may then be stacke<l, housed, or 
worked; great care should be taken to keep the 
root-ends even. 

Method of -watering. 

When flax is pulled, it ought to be immediately 
put into the water, so that it may part with the 
rind or shaw, and he fit for the manufacturer. 
Standing pools, for many reasons, are most proper 
for the purpose, occasioning the flax to have a bel- 
ter colour, to be sooner ready for the grass, and 
even to be of superior quality in every respect- 
When put into the water, it is tied up in beets, or 
small sheaves; the smaller the better, because it is 
then most equally watered. These sheaves ought 
to be built in the pool, in a reclining upright pos- 
ture, so that the weight placed above may keep 
the whole firm down. In warm weather, ten days 
of tlie watering process is sufticient; but it is pro- 
per to examine the pools regularly after the seventh 
day, lest the flax should putrify or rot, which some- 
times happens in very warm weather. Twelve 
days will answer in any sort of weather; though it 
may be remarked, that it is better to give rather 
too little of the water, than too much, as any de- 
ficiency may be easily made up, by suffering it to 
lie longer on the grass, whereas an excess of water 
admits of no remedy'. After lying on the grass 
for a due time, till any defect of the watering pro- 
cess is rectified, the flax is taken \\\t, tied when 
dry in large sheaves, and carried to the mill to be 
switched and prepared for the hackle. 
j\lr Lee''s invention for dressing flax. — Instruc- 
tions fur using the machinery. 

The process is divided into two parts; the first 
part is intended for the farmer, or flax-grower, to 
bring the flax into a fit state for general or common 
purposes. This is performed by three machines| 
one for thrashing out the seed, one for breaking 
and separating the wood from the fibre, and one 
for further separating the broken wood and matter 
from the fibre. In some c'ases, the farmers will, 
perhaps, thrash out the seed in their own mill, and, 
therefore, in such cases, the first machine will be, 
of course, unnecessary. 

The second part of the process is intended for 
the manufacturer to bring the flax into a state foi* 
the very finest purposes, such as lace, cambric, 
damask, and very fine linen. This second part is 
performed by the refining machine only. 
The thras/ang machine. 

Take the flax in small bundles, as it comes frf)m 
the field or stack, and holding it in the left iiand, 
put the seed end between the thrashing machine, 
and the bed or block, against which the machine 
is to strike; then take the handle of the machine 
in the right hand, and move the machine backward 
and forward, to strike on the fla.x, until the se«d 
is all thrashed out. 



HUSBAxVDRY 



.'541 



The breaking machine. 

Take the flax in small handst'ul in the left hand, 
spread it flat between the third and little finger, 
vith the seed end downwards, and the root-end 
above, as near the hand as possible; then put it 
between the beater of the breaking machine, and 
beat it gently till the three or four inches, which 
have been under the operation of the machine, ap- 
pear to be soft; then remove the flax a little higher 
in the hand, so as to let the soft part of the flax 
rest upon the little finger, and continue to beat it 
till all is soft, aTid the wood is separated from the 
fibre, keeping the left hand close to the block, and 
the flax as flat upon the block as possible. The 
other end of the flax is then to be turned; and the 
end which has been beaten is to be wrapped round 
the little finger, the root-end flat, and beaten in 
the machine till the wood is separated, exactly in 
the same way as the other end was beaten. 
The cleansing machine. 

Is to be used in tlie same way, in all respects, as 
the breaking machine; first cleansing one end of 
the flax, and then turning the other, keeping the 
flax all the while flat in the hand. 
The hackle. 

A common hackle will be found useful, in this 
stage, for opening the ends; and ma}' be placed, 
for greater convenience, at the side of the breaking 
and cleansing machine. 

This concludes the first process of the machiner}- 
intended for the farmer, or flax-grower. The se- 
cond, or manufacturer's process requires 

The refining machine. 
' Take a small piece of flax, as it comes from the 
breaking or cleansing machine; pass the seed end 
througli the fluted rollers of the refining machine, 
and bring it round, laying it flat on the root-end 
of tlie flax, forming it into a skein. A few fibres 
of the end brought round, and looped in the flax 
on which it is laid, will keep the skein together. 
It must be kept flat and even on the machine, 
vhich may continue to go round, and work the 
flax, till it is brought to any degree of fineness that 
may be required, and this will not require more 
than from two to six minutes. 

Washing or ivlutening. 

The flax, when prepared by these machines, 
■without having been water-steeped, or dew-rotted, 
may be washed in small quantities at a time, either 
in water only, or with soap and water, w iihout any 
other mixture, and brought by these simple means 
to the purest white. It is to be wrung several 
times in water till the water becomes no longer 
coloured from the matter; and care is to be taken 
that the flax is laid flat like tape, and then spread 
upon the grass; but it is recommended that the 
flax should be spun in the yellow state, and then 
washed in warm water and soap, or boiled, with 
care, in water and soap, from 10 to 15 minutes, 
■which, when dried, will be perfectly white. If 
the weatlier should be favourable, it would be well 
to have it dried on the grass. 

As to the labour required, the machines are 
easily wrought by women or girls, and without any 
assistance from men. 

The produce. 

As to the produce, of difterent degrees of fine- 
ness, from a given weight of the raw material, we 
subjoin the following statement. 

ll'i lbs. of flax from the stack, after the seed 
•was thrashed out, produced 30 lbs. in the state 
No. 1; refined to No. 3, it produced 20 lbs. of flax 
and 3 lbs. of common tow; 20 lbs. of No. S pro- 
duced 14^ lbs. of No. 4. The loss in weight is 
caused by the discharge of matter; there is no loss 
of fibre. 

An average crop will produce about two tons to 



the acre, after the seed is thf-ashed out. This will 
]»rodiice one-fourth fibre, making 10 cwt. to the 
acre No. 1. 

To cultivate hops. — The soil, &c. 

The hop is planted on various soils, and chiefly 
in valleys. Hops are generally of the best quality 
from strong clay land. Tiie crop, however, is 
there very precarious. Those on peat are much 
more productive, but are liable to be aftected by 
the mould in some seasons, which reduces their 
value considerably. Tlie best plantations are on a 
deep loamy soil, where tiie prothice of the latter, 
and the quality of the foi-mer, are sometimes ob- 
tained. Those which are grown on santiy and 
gravelly lands are seldom remarkable for either 
great produce, or superior quality. 

The plant is extremely liable to disasters, from 
its first putting up in the spring, unlil the time of 
picking the crop, which is in September. Snails 
or slugs, ants and flies, are formidable enemies in 
the first instance. Frosts are inimical to its 
growth, and tlie vines are frequently blighted, even 
after they have reached the top of the poles. Small 
green flies, and other insects, which make their 
appearance in the months of Alay and June, when 
the wind is about north-east, often greatly injure 
them; and thej' are subject to take damage by high 
winds from the south-west. The best situatioa 
for a plantation, therefore, is a southern aspect, 
well shaded on three sides, either by hills or plant- 
ing, which is supposed to be the chief proteelion 
that can be given them. 

To plant hops. 

In the winter time provide the soil and manure 
for the hop-ground against the following spring. 
If the dung be rotten, mix it with two or three 
parts of common earth, and let it incorporate to- 
gether, till there is occasion to make use of it in 
making the hop-hills; but if it be new dung, then 
let be mixed as before till the spring in the next 
year, for new dung is very injurious to hops. Hops 
require to be planted in a situation so open that the 
air may freely pass round and between them, to 
dry up and dissipate the moisture, which often de- 
stroys the middles of large plaatations, while the 
outsides remain unhurt. 

The hills should be 8 or 9 feet asunder. If the 
ground be intended to be ploughed with horses be- 
tween the hills, it will be best to plant them in 
squares, chequerwise: but if the ground is so small 
that it may be done with the breast-plough, or 
spade, the holes should be ranged in a quincun.^ 
form. Which way soever is made use of, a stake 
should be stuck down at all the places where the 
hills are to be made. 

7'o choose hops. 

Be verj' particular in the choice of the plants as 
to kind; tcH" if the hop-garden be planted with a 
mixture of several sorts of hops, that ripen at 
several times, it will cause much ti-ouble, and great 
detrim-jnt. 

The two best sorts are the white, and the grey 
bind; the latter is a large square hop, more hardy, 
bears more abundantly, but ripens later than the 
former. There is another sort of the white bind, 
which ripens a week or ten days before the com- 
mon; but this is tenderer, and a less plentiful bear- 
er; though it has this advantage, that it comes first 
to market. If there be a sort of hop you value, 
and would wish to increase, the superfluous binds 
may be laid down when the hops are tied, cutting 
off" the tops, and burying them in the hill; or when 
the hops are dressed all tlie cuttings may be saved; 
for almost every part will grow, and become a 
good set the next spring. 

Seasons of planting, 
i The Kentish planters approve the months of Oo. 

2 J) 2 



d-fi 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



t'sber and March. The most usual time of pro- 
curing the cuttings is in March, uhen the hops i»re 
cut 811(1 dressed. As to the manner of planting 
the sets, tliere sliould be five good sets planted in 
every hill, one in liie middle, and the rest round 
aboui, sloping. Let tliein be pressed close with 
tlie hond, and covered with fine eartli; a stick should 
be placed on each side of the hill to secui-e it. 
To form a nnu plantation. 

The best inelliod is, to have cuttings from ap- 
proved stock, planted out the year before they are 
wanted, in the hop-ground; as the use of plants 
instead of cuttings, not oidy gains a year, but are 
/nore certain to ifourish. A small piece of moist 
Jand is sufficient to raise plants for many acres, 
and at little expense. If the ground be in grass, 
pare and dig in the pods; work the land witli a 
spade, and set it out into ridges of 3J yards wide, 
and two yards between each; having a strip of grass, 
(called a pillar,) next every ridge, and an open 
drain between every two pillars, the depth of 
"which must vary accoi'ding to the soil, some being 
less than one foot, and others nearly four feet in 
depth. Three rows of plants, or, as they are 
termed, hills, are made upon each ridge, which 
should intersect each other; they are generally 2 
yards distant in the rows, so that about 1300 are 
the usual number of hills in a statute acre. Small 
sticks are pro[)er to tie the binds up to, the first 
year, then small poles for a year or two; the size 
of which should be gradually increased. Some 
set 2 poles to eveiy hill, which is proper for ground 
producing luxuriant binds; but on clay land three 
poles are set in a triangular form to the hills on 
the two outside rows of each ridge, and oidy two 
in the middle row. Many additional pules, longer 
than the rest, called catch-poles, are also set to 
take the binds as they run beyond the lesser poles. 
Where the bind is weak, three heads are commonly 
trained up each pole; though two are better, if 
strong. If the ground intended for a new planta- 
tion is not clean from couch-gi-ass, a complete fal- 
low is essential, whether it is grass or stubble; and 
a crop of turnips may be taken to advantage, if 
the land is proper for their growth, and can be 
made clean, as hops are planted in March. 
To take vp hop-ground. 

The following are termed tlie annual orders: — 
Digging the ground completely over; hoeing the 
earth from the hills, and cutting oft' the stock a 
little above the root, which are called pickling and 
cutting; poling, which is carrying the poles from 
the stacks, and setting them down to the hills with 
around implement, shod with iron, and called a 
po)'-, having a crutch at the top, and a peg through 
the middle to tread upon; tying the hinds round 
the poles with rushbs, and pulling up the super- 
fluous binds^ hoeing the ground all over with a hoe 
of large dimensions; wheeling and laying manure 
upon eyeiy hill; covering the manure with tiie soil, 
■which is done by scrapipg the ground over with a 
hoe, and is called hilling; and stacking, which is 
carrying and setting up the poles into heaps or 
stacks, after the crop has been taken. 
Extra-Tvorks. 

As the preceding are termed the ordinary, so 
the following are called the extra-works, as not 
being included in the yearlv bargain with the men 
by the generality of plante'rs, and some of them 
are done only by the very best managers. On 
clayey grouiUl, either the earth ought to be bared 
off the lulls, and a covering of good manure ap- 
plied to them previous to digging, which will re- 
quire from 12 to 15 tons per acre; or from 20 to 
25 tons of manure, or a greater quantity of fresh 
earth (when the ground wants condition) should 



be wheeled and spread all over the ridges. It Is 
not improper, in some cases, to jiursue these 
nielhodb alternately; but on boggy and very rich 
ground, the earth only can be apiilied with advan- 
tage. The drains should be scoured out yearly on 
very wet ground; and what is thrown out is always 
intermixed with the soil in digging; on drier soils 
this is done every second or third year, and oa 
very di-y land it is scarcely necessary to do it at 
all. Recruiting the stock by planting, vyhere any 
hills have failed, is done at little cost in well-man- 
aged plantations, as there are seldom many at once 
in those. If there is any couch-grass, it should be 
digged out with three-pronged forks in March, 
and carried oft' the ground. The renewal of poles 
requires from one to two hundred per acre every 
year. If, when the binds first appear, they are 
eaten by slugs, a handful of malt culm, or saw 
dust, is sometimes laid round each hill, which tbey 
cannot travel over; and should flies or ants attack 
them, soot is the best preventive. I'he cariying 
in and setting catch-poles varies much as to num- 
ber, as some set fewer than one hundred, and 
others five or six hundred per acre. Moving the 
drains and pillars is generally done once, but twice 
moving is better, (whether the grass be made into 
fodder, or is suftered to fall into the drains for 
manure,) as then no seeds scatter on the ground. 
Extra-hoe once before the hilling, and once after. 
After high winds, many poles are broken, down, 
uhich should be set up again soon. 

JMannre proper for hop-culture. 

As to the manure most proper for the hop-cul- 
ture, good stable dung is much used, and is pre- 
ferred to the manure made by beasts, as the latter 
encourages ants on strong ground. Woollen rags 
are the best for forcing a luxuriant bind, and if 
used with judgment, are excellent for clayey 
ground; but they are apt to make the hops small, 
if too many are used. J»Ialt culm, and dove ma- 
nure are excellent, and one complete dressing with 
lime is very serviceable for strong ground. 
To pick hops. 

When the crop is ripe, a proper number of 
pickers are procured, for whom are provided light 
wooden frames, called binges; they are clothed with 
hop-bagging, into which the hops are picked off 
the poles by women and children, having theiu 
brought by men, who take them up by cutting the 
binds about a foot above the ground, and drawing 
up the poles by an instrument called a dragon. 
Each binge has from 4 to 6 pickers, and a man at- 
tends to one or two binges, according to the crop; 
he strips the binds from the poles as they are pick- 
ed, and lays them in heaps ready for stocking'; he 
also carries tiie hops to the kilns, if near; or to a 
cart, as they are measured from the binge. . The 
number of binges employed vary with the crop 
and kiln-room; about one to an acre is usual. The 
hops are taken out of the binges with a basket 
which holds 6 \Vinchester pecks. 
Another method. 

The most convenient way of picking them is 
into a long square fi-ame of wood, with a cloth 
iianging on tenter-hooks within it, to receive die 
hops as they are jiicked. 

They must be picked very clean, free from leaves 
and stalks; and as there shall be occasion, 2 or 3 
times in a day, the frame must be emptied into a 
hop bag made of coarse linen cloth, and carried 
immediately to the oast or kiln, in order to be 
dried: for if they should be too long in the bag, 
they will be apt to heat and be discoloured. If the 
weather be hot, there should no more poles be 
drawn than can be picked in an hour, and they 
should be gathered in fair weather, if it can be. 



HUSBANDRY. 



343 



and when the hops are Arv; this will save soraeex- 
pense in firing;, and piesene their colour belter 
when they are dried. 

To dry hops. 

The best method of drying hops is with char- 
coal on an oast or kiln, covered with hair-cloth of 
the same form and fashion that is used for drying 
malt. The kiln ought to be square, and may be of 
10, 12, 'li, or 16 feet over at the top, where the 
hops are laid, as the plantation requires, and tiie 
room, will allow. l"liere ought* to be a due pro- 
portion between the height and breadth of the kiln, 
and the beguels of tlie steddle wliere the fire is 
kept, viz. if the kiln be 12 feet square on the top, 
it ought to be 9 fevt high from the fire, and the 
steddle ought to be 6 feet and a half square, and so 
proportionable in other dimensions. 

The hops must be spread even upon the oast, a 
foot thick or more, if the depth of the curb will 
allow it; but care is to be taken not to overload the 
oast if the hops are green or wet. The oast ougiit 
to be first warmed with a fire before the hops are 
laid on, and then an even steaciy fire must be kept 
under them; it must not be too fierce at first, lest it 
scorch them; nor must it be suffered to sink or 
slacken, but rather be increased, till the hops are 
nearly dried, lest tlie moisture or sweat which the 
fire has raised, fall back or discolour them. 

When tliey have lain about nine iiours they must 
be turned, and in 2 or 3 hours more tliey rnay be 
taken off. It may be known when they are well 
dried, by the briltleness of the stalks, and the easy 
falling oft' of the hop-leaves. 

To bag hops. 
' As soon as the hops are taken off the kiln, lay 
them in a room for three weeks or a month to cool, 
give, and toughen; for if they are bagged immedi- 
atelj' they will powder, but if they lie awhile, (and 
the longer they lie the better, provided they are co- 
vered close with blankets to secure them from the 
air), they may be bagged with more safety, as not 
being liable to be broken to powder in treading; 
and this will make them bear treading the belter, 
and the harder they are trodden the better they 
■will keep. 

7o dress hops. 

When the ground is dug in January or February, 
the earth about the hills, and very near them, 
ought to be taken away with the spade. About the 
end of February, if the hops were planted the 
spring before, or if tlie ground be weak, they 
ought to be dressed in dry weather; but if the 
ground be strong and in perfection, the middle of 
March will be a good time; and if it is apt to pro- 
duce over-rank binds, the beginning of April may 
be soon enough. Then having with an iron 
picker cleared away all the earth out of the hill, so 
as to clear the stock to llie principal roots, with a 
sharp knife, cut oft' all the shoots which grew with 
the binds the last year; and also all the young 
suckers, that none may be left to run in the alley, 
and weaken the hill. It will be proper to cut one 
jiart of the stock lower than the other, and also to 
cut that part low that was left highest the preceding 
year. In dressing those hops that have been planted 
the year before, cut oft' both the dead tops and the 
young suckers which have sprung up from the 
sets, and also ccvwr the stocks with fine earth, a 
finger's length in thickness. 

'J 'o pole hops. 

About the middle of April the hops are to bo 
poled; when the shoots begin to sprout up, the 
poles must be set to the hills deep in the ground, 
with a square iron picker or crow, that they may 
the better endure the wind; three poles are suffi- 
cient for one hill. These should be placed as near 
the hill as possible, with their bending tops turned 



outwards from the hill, to prevent the binds from 

entangling; and a space between two poles ought to 

be left open to the south, to admit the sunbeams. 

To tie hops. 

The buds that do not clasp of themselves to the 
nearest pole when they are grown to three or four 
feet high, must be guided to it by the hand, turn- 
ing them to the sun, whose course they will always 
follow. They must be bound with withered rushes, 
but not so close as to hinder them from climbing 
up the pole. This continue to do till all the poles 
are furnished with binds, of which two or three 
are enough for a pole; and all the sprouts and 
binds that there are no occasion for, are to be 
plucked up; but if the ground is young, then none 
of these useless binds should be plucked up, but 
should be wrapped up together in Uie middle of 
the hill. 

To gather hops. 

About the beginning of July, hops begin to blow, 
and will be ready for gathering about Bartholo- 
mew-tide. A judgment may be made of their 
ripeness by their strong scent, their hardness, and 
the brownish colour of their seed. Wher) by these 
tokens they appear to be ripe they must be picked 
with all the expedition possible; for if at this time 
a storm of wind should come, it would do them 
great damage, by breaking tho branches, and bruis- 
ing and discolouring the liops; and it is very well 
known that hops, being picked green and bright, 
will sell for a third more than those which ai-e 
discoloured. 

7'o cAdtivate the madder plant. 

The ground is ploughed deep in autumn, and 
again in ^larch; and then laid u\) in ridges, eight- 
een inches asunder, and about a foot higTi. About 
the beginning of April the ground is opened where 
the old roots are planted, and the side shoots taken 
oft', which are transplanted immediately upon the 
new ridges, at about a foot distance, where they re- 
main two seasons; at Michaelmas, when the tops 
of the plants are decayed, the roots are taken up. 
This method of planting in ridges, is only neces- 
sary in wet land. If all the horizontal roots are 
destroyed from time to time, it will cause the large 
downright roots to be much bigger, in which the 
goodness of this plant chiefly consists. After the 
madder roots, the only parts of the plant used by 
dyers, are taken up, they are kiln-dried, and then 
reduued to powder by a mill. Previously to the 
grinding they are carefully assorted. 

The tine quality of madder is distinguished by 
its being of a bright, lively, light colour, well 
ground, without any coarse parts proceeding from 
tiie peelings. Fresh is always more valuable thaa 
old madder. It should be kept close to prevent 
the access of air, as its virtue evaporates when ex- 
posed. 

Madder is principally cultivated in Holland, 
Germany, and France, especially the formerplace, 
where it grows in greater abundance than in any 
other part of the world. 'The turkey madder root 
is principally cultivated about Smyrna. This plant 
may be \)ropagated either by ofi'sets or seeds. Oa 
a light thin soil the culture cannot be carried onto 
any |)rofit: that soil in which the plant delights is 
a rich sandy loam, thi-ee feet or more in depth. 

The ground being first made smooth, is divided 
into beds four feet wide, with alternate alleys, halt 
as broad again as the beds. In each alley is a shal- 
low channel for irrigating the whole field, &c. that 
that part of the alley that is not otherwise engaged 
may be sown with legumes. The madder-seed is 
sown broadcast in the proportion of from 25 to 30 
lbs. per acre about the end of April. In a fort- 
night or three weeks the young plants be°;in to 
appear, and from this lime to the month ot Sej^« 



344 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tember, care must be taken to keep the ground 
well watered and fi-ee from weeds. It ibe platits 
are examined in autumn they will be tound to be 
surrounded wilh small yellow oftsets at the depth 
of two inches, and earlv in September, the earlh 
from the allevs is to be dus? out and laid over ihe 
plants of ma'dder to the height of two or three 
feet; wilh this the first year's operation finishes. 

Tiie second year's work begins in May, with 
giving the be<ls a thorough weeding; and care must 
be taken to supply them with plenty of water dur- 
ing summer. Iii'September, the first crop ot seed 
■will be ripe, at which time, the stems of tb^ plants 
may be mown down, and the roots covered a few 
inches wilh earlh, taken as before out of the alleys. 

The weeding should take place as early as possi- 
ble in the spring of the third year; and the crop, 
instead of being left for seeds, may be cut iliree 
times during summer for green fodder, all kinds of 
cattle being remarkably Yond of it. In October, 
the roots are taken up, the oft'sets are caretully 
separated, and immediately used to form a new 
plantation; and the roots, after being dried, are sold 
either without further preparation, or ground to a 
coarse powder, and sprinkled wilii an alkaline ley. 
The roots lose four-fifths of their weight in dry- 
ing, and the produce of an acre is about 2000 lbs. 
of dry saleable madder. 

Use of madder. 

The principal use of madder is in dying. It 
gives out its colour both to water and rectified spi- 
rit; the watery tincture is of a dark dull red; tlie 
spirituous of a deep bright one. It imparts to 
■woollen cloth, prepared with alum and tartar, a 
very durable, though not a very beautiful i-ed dye. 
As it is the cheapest of all red drugs, that give a 
<!urable colour, it is the principal one commonly 
iiiade use of for ordinary stuffs. Sometimes its 
dye is heightened by the addition of Brazil-wood, 
and sometimes it is employed in conjunction witli 
the dearer reds, as cochineal, for denii-scarlets, 
and demi-crimsons. Madder-root is sometimes 
employed in medicine as an emmenagogue. When 
the madder is given to animals wilh tlieir food, it 
produces a curious phenomenon, namely, tinging 
their bones willi red. The bones of young jjigeons 
■will be thus tinged of a rose-colour in twenty-four 
hours, and of a deep scarlet in liiree days; but the 
bones of adult animals will be a fortnight in ac- 
quiring a rose-colour. 

Best method of hay-making. 

Instead of allowing the hay to lie, as usual in 
most places, for some ilays in the swathe, after it 
is cut, never cut hay bul when the grass is quite 
dry; and then make the gatlierers follow close 
upon the cutters; put it up immediately into small 
cocks about three feet high each, ainl of as small a 
diameter as tiiey can be made to stand with; al- 
•ways giving each of them a slight kind of thatch- 
ing, by drawing a few handsful of the hay from the 
bottom of the cock all round, and laying it lightly 
upon the top, with one of the ends hanging down- 
"wards. This is done with the utmost ease and ex- 
pedition; and when once in that state, the hay is, 
in a great measure, out of danger; for unless a vio- 
lent wind should arise immediately after the cocks 
are put up,nolliing else can hurt the hay; as no rain, 
however violent, can penetrate into these cocks 
but for a very little way; and if they are dry put 
up, they never sit together so closely as to heat; 
although they acquire, in a day or two, such a de- 
gree of firmness, as to be in no danger of being 
overlurne<l by wind after that time, uiiless it blows 
a hurricane. 

In these cocks allow the hay to remain until, upon 
inspection, the farmer judges it will keep in pretty 
large tramp cocks (which is usually in a week or 



two according as the weather is more or less fa- 
vourable), when two men, each with a long pronged 
pitchfork, lift up one of these small cocks between 
them with the greatest ease, and carry them one 
after another, to the place where the tramp-cock is 
to be built: and in this manner proceed over the 
field, till the whole is finislied. 

Mode of haif-muking in Yorkshire. 

Rippling clover or seeds, has been practised 
about forty years, in the neighbourhood of Borough- 
i bridge. It is found to answer much belter than 
the method of making into cocks. 

Tiie clover is cut, and after it has lain four or 
five days in tiie swathe, till it is sufficiently drj', 
the hay-maker, with a rake, rolls up a sufficient 
(piantity to form a ripple, wbicii is set up in the 
form of a cone. Taking a few of tlie longest straws, 
he twists them round the top, which forms the 
])oint of the cone, keeps the ripple compact, and 
shoots oft" the rain. In taking uj) the clover from 
the swathe, and forming the ripple, it is necessary 
to keep the upper or dry part inwards: by that 
means it is mu^h sooner dry, and in a fit state for 
the stack. It is generally necessary for clover to re- 
main 5 or 6 days in the ripple before it is put into 
the stack; but that depends on the state of the 
weather. There is no occasion to untie the rij)- 
ples. The method of rippling is not so expensive 
as cocking; it is much superior both in wet and 
dry seasons — not so liable to be injured by the 
wet — much sooner dry, and, of course, of a better 
quality, and more nourishing for cattle. Each 
ripple will weigh, when dry, about 4 or 5 lbs. thej 
should not be made too large. Except where 
meadow grass is very long it would not be practi- 
cable to iii)ple it, and is very rarely done in York 
sliire. The practice of rip[)ling is simple; attended 
witli little trouble or expense; and whenever trieti, 
will recommend itself. 

To manage cut grass for hay. 

Grass, when cut for hay, ought to he quickly 
raked, in order that its powers may neither Ije ex- 
hausted by the sun, nor dissipated by the air. In 
the first stage, small cocks are preferable, and on 
after days, these may be gathered into large ones 
or hand ricks, by wliicli method, the hay is equal- 
ly made, and properly sweetened. After standing 
8 or 10 days in these ricks, according to the naluitj 
of ihe weather, hay may be carted iiome, and built 
in slacks of sufficient size for standing through the 
winter months. 

Importance of straw in husbandry. 

This is a subject that has not hitiierto been so 
much attended to as its importance deseryes. 

Though many useful observations on straw are 
occasionally introduced in agricultural writings, 
and though its value, as the basis of future crops, 
is fully admitted by every intelligent farmer, yet 
the subject has seldom been professedly treated of 
at any length: we shall endeavour, therefore, to 
compress the most important particulars connected 
with it, under the following heads: — 

1. The weight of straw produced on an average 
of the different crops of grain and pulse, per stat- 
ute acre. 

2. The value of the different kinds of straw, 
and 

3. The various uses to which each kind of straw 
is applicable. 

IVei^'ht of straw produced by the different crops. 

The quantity of straw per acre, ditters according 
to a variety of circumstances; as, 1. The species of 
grain, whether wheat, barley, oats, &o. ; 2. The dif- 
terenl kinds of the same grain; 3. The season (for 
ill dry seasons the quantity is less than in moist); 
4. The soil, for in fertile soils the straw is moi-e 
abundant than in poor ones; 5. The season whea 



HUSBANDRY. 



346 



the seed is sown, for spring sown wheat has less 
straw than the winter sown; and, 6. The manner 
in which the straw is cnt, for an inch or two at tlie 
root-end of the straw makes a great addition to the 
dutiglii!!. 

From a statement by Mr Young, it woukl appeal', 
that the average produce, in straw, of all the dif- 
ferent cro])S, stulihle included, may be calculated at 
1 ton, 7 cwt. per English acre; but that is rejecting 
the weaker soils. 

It is calculated by Mr Brown, of Markle, that 
on an average of years, the produce of straw in 
good land, and under tolerable management, will 
be nearly in the following proportion, per English 
acre: 

Stones. 

Wheat, 160 

Beans and peas, 130 

Oats, 130 

Barley, 100 

Total 520 
Or, at an average of these crops, 130 stone per 
acre, 2i lbs. avoirdupois, per stone; in all 2860 lbs. 
or I ton, 5 cwt. 2 quarters and 4 lbs. 

It may be safely estimated, that on an average of 
years, well cultivated and fertile soils, when the 
crop is carefully cut down, will annually produce, 
on the average of the crops above mentioned, and 
taking the average of the kingdom, 1 ton, 5 cwt. 
per English acre. 

Value of the different kinds of straw. 

The intrinsic value of straw must vary materi- 
ally, according to its leading properties, tlie quan- 
tity of manure into which it may be converted by 
littering, or its fitness to be employed as thatch, 
these being the chief uses to which it is applica- 
ble; but, in general, its price depends on its vicinity 
to large towns. It is only in situations where 
foreign manure can be procured easily, and at a 
cheaper rate than by converting the straw raised 
upon the farm into dung, that the sale of straw is 
ever permitted. Straw is generally dearer in Lon- 
don, and its neighbourhood, than in any other part 
of the kingdom. It is sold there by the load, 
which consists of 36 trusses, of 36 lbs. each, or 
1296 lbs. in all. Two loads of wheat-straw per 
acre are reckoned a tolerable crop. 

As straw is rarely, permitted to be sold, being 
usually employed in maintaining winter stock, the 
real value of the article, to the farmer, is but in- 
considerable, depending upon the quantity and 
quality of the dung it produces. So little is it 
thought necessary acciH-ately to ascertain the value 
of straw, that in several cases it has been given by 
the outgoing to the incoming tenant, as an equiva- 
lent for the expense of harvesting, thrashing, and 
marketing the last crop. It is often thought in- 
sufficient to cover even that expense, and a farther 
abatement is allowed on the price of the grain. 
, Various purposes to which straw is applicable. 

The subject of feeding with straw will be better 
understood by considering the specific properties 
Bf the ditterent kinds of straw employed in feed- 
ing stock, and the rules that ought to be observed 
when stock are fed with that material. 
Wheat straw. 

This kind of straw, from its strength, is con- 
sidered to be peculiarly calculated both for litter 
and thrashing; and, indeed, wherever the practice 
of cutting straw into chaft', for mixing with corn 
for horses, prevails, wheat straw is preferred. 
"When given to cattle or horses, it is sometimes cut 
into chaft', and eitlier given raw in that slate, or, 
vhat is greatly preferred, steamed with other food, 
ju particular with potatoes. 
* In order to improve wiieat straw as fodder, it is 
S T 



the practice, in some parts of England, to cut the 
grain rather greener than in Scotland, which pre- 
serves more of the natural juices, and consequently 
makes the fodder better. Some of the best farmers 
were accustomed to cut wheat mucli earlier than 
common in their respective districts. One of 
these was a miller in Norfolk, who occupied a large 
farm, where he always cut his wheat several days 
before any one else thought of beginning, well 
knowing the good consequences in the value of the 
grain. It must also be less apt to be injured by 
shaking or harvesting. 

Oat straw. 
Among the culmiferous grains, the straw of the 
oat is considered to be the best fodder, when given 
uncut. It is well known, indeed, that oat straw, 
during the winter season, is almost universally 
given instead of hay, in all the best cultivated 
counties of Scotland, during the winter months, 
though that of peas and beans is certainly pre- 
ferred where both are grown. 

In some districts farmers cut oats in the straw 
into a species of fodder, which is called "cut 
meat." This is given not only to horses, but to 
cattle, especially fattening cattle. It is thought to 
give not only fatness but a fineness of skin to all 
sorts of stock. 

Bean straw. 
If well harvested, this straw forms a very hearty 
and nutritious kind of food for cattle in the winter 
season. Both oxen and horses, when duly supplied 
with oats, in proportion to the work they have to 
execute, thrive well on it; and the reduced parts, 
or what is termed in England the coving-chaflT, 
is found valuable, as a manger food, for the labour- 
ing teams; when blended with other substances, it 
is probable that, in particular cases, the stems 
might be cut into chaff with advantage; but when 
made use of in these methods, it should be used as 
fresh as possible after being thrashed. A mixture 
of bean straw, (which bj' itself is rather dry,) and 
of ])eas-haum, which is sweet and nourisliing, 
makes excellent fodder. 

But though this straw, more especially when 
mixed with peas-haum, is of great value as fodder * 
to the working stock of the farm, it does not suit 
well with riding-liorses, as it is apt to hurt their 
Avind. In some horses, both bean-straw and peaa- 
haura are apt to occasion colic pains, or tiie dis- 
ease which is provincially called botts, probably oc- 
casioned by flatulency. For this disease, about 
half an ounce, or a table-spoonful of laudanum, is 
found to be a good remedy. 

Peas straw. 
In Scotland, the haum of peas is used as fodder 
for working-horses instead of hay; and when well 
harvested, forms a very excellent provender, inso- 
much that it is considered to be of almost equal 
value to the grain itself. 

Tare-straw or hay. 
This is an article strongly recommended by some 
farmers; jbr when Ihe land has been dunged, and 
the seed good, the produce is considerable. The 
crop should be cut as soon as the blossoms begin to 
fall oft', or the pods to form; and the whole, convert- 
ed into hay-tares, require a great deal of sun to 
cure, and rain is ver}' injurious to them. Ii would 
be a good plan to mix them with dry straw, which 
would improve both. 

Rules regarding the consumption of straw in feed- 
ing cattle.. 
Straw is much used in the feeding of cattle in 
Scotland; and there can be no doubt that oxen will 
feed well on straw a^d turnips, if the straw be good. 
It is recommended, in all cases, that for a moutU 
or six weeks after a bullock is put to turnips, stravir 
only should be given with them. But in the mor« 



J46 



UNn^RSALREQEIPT BOOK. 



advanced stasjes of fattening;, Iiay is so much supe- 
rior, that it slioultl if i)0ssible be supplied. It is 
certain, at tiie same time, that hay is a very expen- 
sive food for slock, and ought to be saved as much 
as possible wliere it can prudently be done. It is 
ivell known tliat a full allowance of turnips and 
straw, durina; the winter nionllis, will fatten belter 
than a small allowance of hay-in place of the straw. 
In the spring; hay, which retains its nutritive juices 
longer than straw, is much more valuable, both for 
fattening slock and feedini;; horses; and it is there- 
fore tlie practice to reserve hay for al)Out tliree 
months' consumption of these kinds of stock, and 
for no others. 

Rules for feeding horses tvith straw. 

In regard to horses, they seldom get any hay for 
three months in winter; iiut with straw and the 
corn, which must always be given them, wiiether 
they get straw or hay, they not only plough three- 
fourths of an English acre per day, or work from 
seven to eight hours at other labour, but are actii- 
ally full of "flesh and vigour when sowing commen- 
ces. They must, however, have hay instead of 
straw, when the severe labour of spring takes 
place. 

\Vht;n, therefore, farmers' horses are so much 
reduced in condition as to be unable to go througli 
the severe labour of spring, it is owing to their 
not having got a sufficient quantity of corn. Peas 
and bean-straw certainly make. the best fodder, 
%vhen not injured by raiii; but if that kind of straw 
is damaged in harvest, white straw is to be pre- 
ferred. 

Rules for feeding sheep with straw. 

There is no food of which sh(;ep are fonder than 
peas-straw. The soil of the pastoral districts in 
Scotland, being rarely of a kind calculated for 
peas, any extensive cultivation of that grain is im- 
practicable; but where circumstances are favoura- 
ble to that crop, peas ought to be cultivated, were 
it merely for the straw, as it would enable the store- 
farmers to carry on their system of sheep-farming 
with much more advantage. Indeed, the same 
plan might be advisable in other districts. It might 
be proper to add, that for ewes at yeaning time, 
lentil-hay is better than tare-hay or even peas- 
haum. 

JMiscellaneous rides and observations regarding the 
consumption of straw. 

On turnip farms in Scotland, it is the usual prac- 
tice to feed horses till March, where the labour is 
not severe, and cows through the winter, with oat- 
straw, whilst the fattening and straw-yard cattle 
get the straw of wheat and barley. If any peas or 
beans be cultivated on the farm, that straw being 
given to the horses, a part of the oat-straw may be 
left for the fattening and straw-yard cattle. Upon 
turnip farms, it is not thought profitable to cut the 
greater part of the clovers for hay. These are usual- 
ly eaten by sheep, and no more hay saved, than what 
may serve the horses, cows, and fattening stock, for 
eight or ten weeks, immediately before grass, with 
a small quantity occasionally given to the sheep fed 
on turnips. 

The expense of feeding even the horses alone, 
for eight montlis, on hay, would be more than a 
farmer can well afford; at the same time it is a rule 
with the best farmers, to give hay to their horses 
in the early part of winter; then peas or bean straw, 
till seed-lime commences in the spring; and after- 
wards hay. 

Straw keeps much better unthrashed, in a large 
stack, tlian in a barn. Straw in general, mure es- 
pecially white straw, is found to lose its value as 
fodder, in whatever way it may be kept, after the 
sharp dry breezes of the spring months have set in. 

It is a general rule, that straw, when intemled to 



be used as food for stock, should be given, as 
speedily as possible, after it is thrashed. The 
thrashing separates and exposes it so much, that if 
kept long, it is, comparatively spe.aking, of little 
value as fodder. Lisle, an intelligent writer on 
agriculture, and a practical farmer, stales, that he 
found cows did not eat straw so well on a Monday 
morning, as they did the rest of the week, because 
the straw was not fresh from the flail. Sti-aw, 
therefore, should be constantly made use of, as 
soon after it is thrashed as possible; for by keep- 
ing, it becomes either musly, or too dry, and cat- 
tle do not eat it, nor thrive on it so well. It can- 
not be doubled liiat air has a very injurious eft'ect 
upon all kinds of fodder, and the more it can be 
kept from the influence of the sun and the atmos- 
pliere, so much the better. It is seldom given as 
fodder, unless to straw-yard cattle, after the month 
of March. 

When clover is sown with grain crops, the clover 
has often arrived at such a lengtli, as to mix with 
the straw in cutting the crop. This certainly im- 
proves the straw in good harvests; but as little clo- 
ver as possible should be cut with the straw, as it 
makes it very difiicult to secure the crop, unless it 
be left upon the ground for several days. 
Straw as applicable to litter. 

Straw, when mixed with the dung and the urine 
of cattle, horses, &.c, &c. is a I'ich and excellent 
manure; but even alone, when ploughed'in, or de- 
composed by pui-e simple water, it is of use. AH 
the various sorts of straw answer the purposes of 
litter. Some farmers contend that rye straw is the 
best litter; others prefer the straw of wlieat, which 
absorbs, it is sai(l, so much urine and moisture, 
that a cart of wheat straw is supposed equal in value 
to three carts of well made dung. In England, the 
straw of peas and beans is extremely valuable, 
forming, it is said, when well broken by thrashing, 
a desirable litter for working horses, hogs, and 
other stock; but in Scotland, it is never used as 
litter, unless it has been spoilt by bad management, 
or a most vmseasonable season in harvest, as its 
feeding properties are there so well known. Lit- 
tering is of use, not only for converting straw into 
manure, but for keeping the animals warm and dry. 
In tact, cattle cannot be soiled on clover, or fed on 
turnips, without abundance of litter. 

There are four modes of converting straw into 
dung, by littering stock: — I. In stalls or stables; 
2. In hammels; 3. In fold-yards; and 4. In open 
folds, where sheep are littered with straw. 

The quantity of dung produced from a given 
quantity of straw, depends a good deal upon the 
kind of straw that is used (as some kinds absorb 
much more moisture than others), and upon the 
degree of care employed in preparing the dung. 
Speaking generally, the original weigiit of straw 
may be tripled, if the manufacturing process be 
properly conducted, and the dung applied to tlie 
ground before its powers are lessened or exhausted. 
The quantity of dung which may be made from an 
acre, especially if the dung arising from clover, 
turnips, and hay, consumed on a farm, is included 
in the general stock, will be something more than 
four tons; consequently, any farm of decent soil 
may be manured at the I'ate of 12 tons per acre, 
every third year, from its own produce, provided 
the corn crops are cut with accuracy, and the straw 
manufactured into dung, in a husbandman-liko 
manner. 

Straw as applicable to thatching. 

For many ages 3traw was the common material 
for roofing farm-buildings and cottages, and was 
formerly made use of even in towns. The expense 
of a thatched roof is not great, in so far as respects 
labour; and the value of the straw is, to tiie gro'.ver. 



HUSBANDRY. 



347 



either the price he could obtain for it, or that of 
the dung that could he made from it, as tlie kind 
used for thatch is seldom used as fodder. Where 
economy must be attended to in the building of 
cottages, straw is taken as the least costly material; 
but in these days, wlien manure is so extremely 
valual)ie, as little straw as possible sliould be spared 
for other purposes. 

The durability of a thatched roof is likewise 
maintained. A good coat of thatch will need very 
little repair during an ordinary lease. Hat care 
must be taken that the straw is very clean thraslied. 
If it is not, tiie grain left will soon spring, and in- 
troduce putrefaction, and encourage vermin. The 
thrashing mill renders straw less fit for thatch than 
when it is thrashed by the flail. 

In Somersetshire, wheat is seldom thrashed with 
the straw, but the ears are cut off, and the straw, 
bound in sheaves, and tied very tight, is used for 
tiiatehing. 

^Miscellaneous 'itses of strew. 
It is well known that various articles are manu- 
factured from straw, sucli as bonnets, and other or- 
naments for the ladies. Even in the remote county 
of Caithness, the straw manufacture is carried on. 
The straw is prepared in London, and the plait is 
returned to that market. Straw-plaiting is the 
principal manufacture in Bedfoi-dshi re. Thequim- 
tity thus used is very considerable, and it furnislies 
employment for numbers of persons wlio might 
otherwise with diffieulty find the means of subsist- 
ence. 

In some districts straw mixed with clay is used 
for building the walls of houses or gardens, and 
with the same mixture for the roofs of houses, in- 
stead of the common mode of thatching. 

In districts on the sea-shore, it is common for 
experienced farmers to keep in reserve a conside- 
rable proportion of their wiieat or barley straw, and 
to make it into a dunghill, alternately witli tiie sea- 
ware, stratum upon stratum, till botli are exhausted. 
This is an excellent plan, wliere the sea-weed can- 
not be immediately applied; hut it is the best sys- 
tem to plough it in, wlien .obtained. 

Near Gloucester great quantities of bean-haum, 
as well as common straw, are bought up at a potash 
manufactory, and burnt for the ashes. 

Straw is also used for stuffing beds. For that 
purpose, the chaff of oats is found to be a matei-ial 
not much inferior to ordinary feathers; and being 
so much cheaper, chaff beds are almost universally 
used Ijy the lower oi'ders in Scotland. 

Another purpose to which straw is applied, is 
tliat of packing; and it is proper to observe, that 
tlie quat;iity used in packing china and stoneware, 
in the districts where these manufactories prevail, 
as in Staffordshire, is found to be a serious injury 
to the filrmer. 

The most recent discovery, connected with any 
Straw production, is tliat of the llev. James Hall, 
who has ascertained that every bean-stalk, accord- 
ing to its size, contains from 20 to 35 filaments, 
which are of a nature among the strongest, and 
most durable hitherto discovered, lie calculates 
that on an average there are about 200 lbs. weight 
of such filaments on an acre, capable of being ap- 
plied to various useful purposes, where durability 
and strength, rather than fineness and delicacy, are 
required. 

7'o under-drain day lands. 
This operation is always best performed in spring 
or summer, when the ground is dry. Aluin drains 
ought to be made in every part of the field where 
a cross-cut or open drain was formerly wanted; 
they ought to be cut four feet deep, upon an ave- 
rage. This completely secures them from the pos- 
sibility of being damaged by the treading of hor- 



ses or cattle, and being so far below the small 
drains, clear the water finely out of them. In every 
situation, i)ipe-turfs for the main drain, if they 
can be had, are pi'eferable. If good stiff clay, a 
single row of ])ipe-turf; if sandy, a double row. 
\Vhen pipe-turf cannot be got conveniently, a good 
wedge-drain may answer well, when the sub-soil 
is a strong, stiff clay; but if the sub-soil be only 
moderately so, a thorn-drain, with couples below, 
will do still better; and if the sub-soil is very sandy, 
except pipes can be had, it is in vain to attempt 
under-draining the field by any other method. It 
may be necessary to mention here, that the size of 
tlie main drains ought to be regulated according to 
the length and declivity of the run, and the quan- 
tity of water to be carried off by them. It is al- 
ways safe, however to have the main drains lai'ge, 
and plenty of them; for economy here seldom 
turns out well. 

Having finished the main drains, proceed next 
to make a small drain in every furrow of the field, 
if the ridges formerly have not been less than 15 
feet wide. But if that should be the case, first 
level the ridges, and make the drains in the best 
direction, and at such a distance from each other 
as may be thought necessary. If the water rises 
well in the bottom of the drains, they ought to be 
cut three feet deep; and in this case would dry the 
field sutliciently well, altliough they were from 25 
to 30 feet asunder; but if the water does not draw 
well to the bottom of the drains, two feet willTje a 
sufticient deepness for tlje pipe drain, and 2^- feet 
for the wedge drain. In no case ought they to be 
shallower where the field has been previously lev- 
elled. In this instance, however, as the surface 
water is carried off chiefly by the water sinking 
immediately into the top of the drains, it will be 
necessary to have the drains much nearer each 
other — say from 15 to 20 feet. If the ridges are 
more than 15 feet wide, however broad and irregu- 
lar they may have been, follow invariably the line 
of the old furrows, as the best direction for the 
drains; and, where they are high-gathered ridges, 
from 20 to 24 inches will be a sufficient depth for 
the pipe-drain, and from 24 to 30 inches for the 
wedge-drain. Particular care should be taken in 
connecting the small and main drains together, so 
as the water may have a gentle declivity, with free 
access into the main drains. 

When the drains are finished, the ridges are 
cleaved down upon the drains by the plough; and 
where they had been very high formerly, a second 
clearing may be given; but it is belter not to level 
the ridges too much, for by allowing them to re- 
tain a little of their former shape, the ground being 
lowest immediately where the drains are, the sur- 
face water collects upon the top of the drains; and, 
by shrinking into them, gets freely away. After 
the field is thus finished, run the new ridges across 
the small drains, making them about nine or ten 
feet broad, and continue afterwards to plough the 
field in the same manner as dry land. 

It is evident from the above method of draining, 
that the expense will vary very much, according to 
the quantity of main drains necessary for the field, 
the distance of the small drains from each other, 
and the distance .the turf is to be carried. la gene- 
ral, when the drains are about 20 feet asunder, the 
cost will be about 'iL 2«. per acre, for cutting, &c., 
and 1/. Is. per acre for cartage of turf. 

The advantage resulting from under-draining, is 
very great; for besides a considerable saving annu- 
ally of water furrowing, cross cutting, &c. the land 
can often be ploughed and sown to advantage, both 
in the spring and in the fall of the year, when ether- 
wise it would be found quite impracticable; every 
species of drilled crop, such as beans, potatoes. 



348 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



turnips, &c. can be cultivated successfully; and 
every species, both of green and viiule crops, is 
less apt to fail in wet and untoward seasons. 
7b drain lands. 

Wherever a burst of water appears in any parti- 
cular spot, the sure and certain way of getting quit 
of such an evil is to dig hollow drains, to sucii a 
depth below the surface as is required by the fall 
or level that can be gained, and by the quantity of 
■water expected to proceed from the burst or 
spring. Having ascertained the extent of water to 
be carried off, taken tlie necessary levels, and 
cleared a mouth, or leading passage for the water, 
begin the drain at the extremity next to that 
leader, and go on with the work till the top of the 
spring is touched, whicli probably will accomplish 
the intended object. But if it should not be com- 
pletely accomplished, run off from the main drain 
•with such a number of brandies, as may be required 
to intercept the water, and, in this way, disap- 
pointment will hardly be experienced. Drains, to 
be substantially useful, should seldom be less than 
three feet in depth, twenty or twenty-foUr inches 
thereof to be close packed with stones or wood, 
according to circumstances. The former are the 
best materials, but in many places are not to be 
gat in sufficient quantities; recourse, therefore, 
must often be made to the latter, tnough not so 
effectual or durable. 

It is of vast importance to fill up drains as fast 
as they are dug out; because, if left open for any 
length of time, the earth is not only apt to fall in, 
but the sides get into a broken, irregular state, 
which cannot afterwards be completely rectified. 
It also deserves attention, that a proper covering 
1 of straw or sod should be put upon the top of the 
materials, to keep the surface earth from mixing 
yith them^ and where wood is the material used 
for filling up, a double degree of attention is ne- 
cessary, otherwise the proposed improvement may 
be effectually frustrated. 

Pit draining. 

The pit method of draining is a very effectual 
one, if executed with judgment. When it is suffi- 
ciently ascertained where the bed of water is de- 
posited, which can easily be done by boring with 
an auger, sink a pit into the ])lace, of a size which 
will allow a man freely to work within its bounds. 
Dig this pit of such a depth as to reach the bed of 
the water meant to be carried off; and when this 
depth is attained, which is easily discerned by 
the rising of the water, fill up the pit with great 
land-stones, and carry oft" the water by a stout drain 
to some adjoining ditch or mouth, whence it may 
proceed to the nearest river. 

Mr Bayley's directions for draining land. 

First make the main drains down the slope or 
fall of the field. When the land is very wet, or 
has not much fall, there should in general be two 
of these to a statute acre; for the shorter the nar- 
row drains are, "the less liable they are to acci- 
dents. The width of the. trench for the main 
drains should be thirty inches at top, but the width 
at the bottom must be regulated by the nature and 
size of the materials to be used. If the drain is to 
be made of bricks ten inches long, three inches 
thick^and four inches in breadth, then the bottom 
of the drain must be twelve inches: but if the com- 
mon sale bricks are used, then' the bottom mus'lbe 
proportionably contracted. In both cases there 
must be an interstice of one inch between the bot- 
tom bricks and the sides of the trench, and the va- 
cuity must be filled up with straw, rushes, or loose 
mould. J'or the purpose of making these drains, 
the bricks should he moulded ten inches long, 
four broad, and three thick; which dimensions 
always make the best drain. 



To construct maim drains. 

When the ground is soft and spongy, the bottom 
of the drain is laid with bricks placed across. On 
these, on each side, two bricks are laid flat, ona 
upon the other, forming a drain six inches high, 
and four broad, which is covered with bricks laid 
fiat. When stones are used instead of bricks, the 
bottom of the drain should be about eight inches 
in width; and in all cases the bottom of roaia 
drains ought to be sunk four inches below the 
level of the narrow ones, whose contents they re- 
ceive, even at the point where the latter fall into 
thrm. 

The main drains should be kept open or unco- 
vered till the narrow ones are begun from them, 
after which they may be finished; but before tlve 
earth is returned upon the stones or bricks, it is 
advisable to throw in straw, rushes, or brushwood, 
to increase the freedom of the drain. The small 
narrow drains should be cut at the distance of six- 
teen or eighteen feet from each other, and should 
fall into the main drain at very acute angles, to 
prevent any stoppage. At the point where they 
fall in, and eight or ten inches above it, they should 
be made firm with brick or stone. These drains 
should be eighteen inches wide at the top, and six- 
teen at bottom. 

To fill drains. 

The cOmpletcst method yet known, is to cut the 
strongest willows, or other aquatic brushwood, 
into lengths of about twenty inches, and place 
them alternately in the drain, with one end against 
one side of the bottom, and 'the other leaning 
against the opposite siile. Having placed tha 
strong wood in this manner, fill up the space be- 
tween them, on the upper side, with the small 
brush wood, upon which a few rushes or straw 
being laid, as before mentioned, the work is done- 
Willow, alder, asp, or beach boughs, are exceed- 
ingly durable if put into the drain green, or before 
the sap is dried; but if they are suffered to become 
dry, and then laid under ground, a rapid decay is 
the consequence. 

As in some situations it is an object of great im- 
portance to save the expense of materials commonly 
used in filling drains, a variety of devices have, 
with that view, been adopted. One of these, is of 
the following nature: A drain is first dug to the 
necessary depth, narrow at bottom. Into the trench 
is laid a smooth tree, or cylindrical piece of wood, 
! twelve feet long, six inches diameter at the one end, 
I and five at the other, having a ring fastened into 
I the thickest end. After strewing a little sand upon 
the U|)per side of the tree, the clay, or toughest 
part of the contents of tlie trench, is first thrown 
in upon it, and after that the remainiler of the 
earth is fully trodden down. By means through 
the ring, the tree is then drawn out to within a 
foot or two of the smaller or hinder end; and the 
same operation is repeated till the whole drain is 
complete. Such a drain is said to have conducted 
a small run of water a considerable way undev 
ground for more than twenty years, without any 
sign of failure. 

Tg -water meadows. 

The water should be set on in the month of Oc- 
tober; and also as early in that month as possible. 
The effects of this watering are veiy important ia 
strengthening the roots and stalks of the plants, 
and preparing them for shooting up strong and vi- 
gorous, next spring; and the blades that now rise, 
form a rough coat against winter, protecting th« 
vital powers of the plants from the severity of that 
season. It sometimes happens, also, that by de- 
laying the Watering process too long, early frosts 
supervene, and very much impede or prevent tha 
operation. The Hoods of autumn are very enricU- 



HUSBANDRY. 



349 



ing to meRdows; but this benefit is lost sight of, to 
a certain degree, when the process of watering is 
•lelaycd too long. Indeed the latter pasturage of 
mesulows may generally be consumed early in Oc- 
tober; and what may then remain is of no impor- 
tance, compared with tlie advantages to be derived 
from early watering. Besides, if tlie meadow must 
be watered in separate divisions, and at different 
periods, it must happen, that by delaying the ope- 
lalion till November, some parts of the meadow may 
receive no water sooner than December or Janu- 
Bry; and if these months are very severe, it may 
be wholly impracticable to complete the process at 
that season. 

• If the land is fine and rich, it will generally be 
found, that three Aveeks may be sufficient for the 
first turn; if sour and coarse, four weeks may be 
necessary. The verdure will then be fine, and the 
soil rich and yielding. If scum appear on the 
grass, the water must be instantly removed. 

Should the water not overflow properly, stops 
must lie placed in the small feeders. These are 
either of stones or stakes, either of which are firm 
and durable. Sods rise and float away, and boards 
are seldom firm enough, though at times tliey may 
answer well. If the water, after all, does not flow 
])roperly over, notches must be cut, in order to 
make passages for it. 

Separate divisions of meadow occupy the water 
in succession throughout winter; during which, 
they ought all to have received one turn of the wa- 
ter, as above recommended, if not given in later 
than autumn. 

In severe frosts,^t is not very safe to remove the 
water, as it operates so far to protect the grass; and 
if exposed wet to frost, it might be greatly in- 
jured. If it be necessary to alter the water in 
such weather, let it be done in the morning of a 
dry da}^ 

In spring every division of the meadow requires 
to be again watered; and the fine rich verdure that 
appears, with the sott unctuous tread of the soil, 
are indications of advantage being obtained; biit'the 
appearance of a white scum warns the floater in- 
stantly to remove the water. 

To form inclosures. 

Inclosures, with some trifling exceptions, are 
formed in Great Britain by building stone walls, or 
planting thorn hedges. According to the first me- 
thod, the walls ar.; either of dry stone, or of stone 
and lime; and in the last instance Itme is either 
used only in bedding the outward part of the wall, 
or applied to the whole of it, as circumstances may 
render necessary. These walls are either coped 
with sod, or have a cope which tapers to the top, 
closely built with stone and lime, or the coping is 
executed with large irregular stones, according to 
the taste and dispositions of the persons by whom 
they are erected. A wall built with stone and 
lime is undoubtedly the preferable fence; but the 
expense far exceeds the value of the interest whicii 
a tenant generally has in the premises. Such walls 
ought, therefore, in every case, to he erecteil by 
tlie proprietor, who thus increases the value of his 
property, in a direct proportion with the increased 
value given to the land, by the erection of sucli 
fences. 

To render a stone wall useful as a fence, its 
height ought never to be less than 5 feet, 3 inches, 
otherwise it will not keep in many of «he breeds 
of sheep which prevail in the country. In erecting 
the fence, great care ought to be taken to buiid 
upon a solid found.ation, otherwise the wall is apt 
U) incline to a side, and gradually to fall down. 
The coping should be made close; for if the water 
gets down the inside of the wall, it will bulge out, 
«Bd dually go to ruiok 



To plant thorn hedges. 

When a thorn hedge is to be planted, it is of 
advantage to fallow the ground a year before hatfd; 
and if the soil is poor, to dress it with dung, so that 
the young plants ma)' not be oppressed with weeds, 
or stunted for want of food, w hen weak and una- 
ble to send fort!) their fibres in search of nourish- 
ment. 'Miese things being attended to, and the 
hedge planted, an annual cleaning ought to be 
given; sometimes tw o cleanings are necessary be- 
fore the hedge will thrive. It is also necessary to 
fence it at the back with paling, that beasts may be 
restrained from going over it, and to switch it over 
when 2 or 3 years of age, in order that it may be 
kept close at the bottom. 

As the hedge grows up, repeated cuttings are 
necessary, so that a wide bottom may be gained, 
without which no hedge can be considered as a 
suitable fence; and some attention is required to 
give a proper shape to the top, which is a matter 
of much importance to the welfare of the hedge. 
When tlioriis are allowed to grow to unequal 
heights, llie strong plants are sure to smother the 
weak ones; and when the hedge becomes broad at 
the top, it retains water and snow to the great injury 
of tlie plant. All these evils may be avoided by 
proper management: though 12 years must elapse 
before the best-managed hedge can be considered 
as a sufiicient fence. 

To protect young thorn hedges. 

The expenses of protecting young hedges from 
cattle, by paling and railing, have always appeared 
to be too great, and, at the same time, an unne- 
cessary oonsumption of wood and nails. It occur- 
red to Mr Moore, steward to the Marquis of Bute, 
that a more economical protection might be effect- 
ed, by forming a small earthen dike upon the side 
of the ditch, opposite the line of thorns, sufl[iciently 
high to prevent cattle getting into the ditch. Ac- 
coi'dingly, some years ago, he tried the experiment, 
and found it completely to answer his expecta- 
tion. 

The materials of this sort of protection being 
always on the ground, it is attended with no ex- 
pense but the workmanship, and the want of the 
use of the land occupied by this small ditch, for 
the time required, will be much more than com- 
pensated by the saving of paling, railing, work- 
manship, and nails. Mr Moore has also practised 
with success, in parts where dead thorns, or brush 
for cocking, are scarce, the placing of stones across 
the top of ilie dike, instead of the usual cocking. 
Those stones, after having; served their purpose, 
will be useful for drains or dikes where improve- 
ments are carrying on. 

To form a plantation. 

When a plantation of timber is to be formed, 
the first step necessary is to fence the ground that 
is to be planted, so that cattle of all kinds may be 
kept from making inroads. The ground to be 
planted ought to be completely fallowed on the 
preceding year, and,' if in ii rough or waste state, 
two years fallowing will be useful. If wet or bog- 
gy, open drains are to be dug through all the hol- 
low places, so that superfljious moisture may be 
removed. These operations being performed, the 
planting m.ay proceed, in executing which great 
care should be taken to make the pits of a proper 
size; and, in filling them up, that the best earth 
be returned nearest the roots. A mixture of tim- 
ber, in the same plailtation, is always advantageous, 
and thick planting is eligible for the purpose of 
aftbrdhig shelter. As the plantation gets forward, 
attention must be paid to thinning and pruning 
the trees, removing always those first that are 
either sickly or debilitated; and, in this way, and 
by exercising constant attention in the managera«ut, 

2 U 



^50 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



timber trees ■will advance ■with double rapidity, 
than when neglected and overlooked. 

%luch expense is often incurred in planting trees, 
■which is afterwards lost by neglecting to train them 
up. Trees indeed are,' in most cases, put into 
the eartii, .and then left to themselves, to grow or 
die; whereas witli them, as witli all other plants, 
the fostering ii.and of man is indispensably called 
for in every stage of growth, otherwise they will 
i-arely arrive at ijerfection, or make that return to 
the owner which may be reasonably expected, 
when llie several processes of planting, pruning, 
and thinning, are duly exercised. 

Planting trees in hedge-rows is not only preju- 
dicial to fences, but of gi-eat detriment to corn 
crops cultivated in fields surrounded by these 
hedge-rows, especially if the fields are of a small 
size. If shelter is wanted for a field, the best way 
of procuring it is to form belts, or strips of plant- 
ing, from 50 to 60 feet wide; for timber trees 
thrive much better than when planted in rows, or 
narrow strips. All cold, or moorish, soils are 
greatly benefited by being inclosed in this way; 
though it may he remarked, that small inclosures 
ought to be avoided, because tliey occasion a great 
■waste of ground without affording a benefit \n other 
respects proportibned to the heavy expense en- 
tailed upon the proprietor or ten-ant, for supporting 
such a number of unnecessary fences. 

The best method of raising oaks. 

The Dutchess of Rutland has received the gold 
medal of the Society for the encouragement of 
Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, for experi- 
ments in raising oaks. After five several experi- 
ments, her grace is of opinion that the best method 
is, " to sow the acorns where they are to remain, 
and, after hoeing the rows two years, to j)lant po- 
tatoes, one row only between each rov/ of oaks, 
for three years. The benefit to the oaks from 
planting ])Otatoes is incalculable; for, from the 
said experiments, and from others made at the 
same time, and with the same seedling'oaks, plant- 
ed with a mixture of larch, spruce, beech, birch, 
and other forest trees, and also with oaks only — in 
all cases she has found that i)0tatoes between the 
rows are so superior to all other methods, that the 
oaks will actually grow as much the first four years 
with them, as in six without them. "It appears," 
she observes, "that the great secret in raising 
plantations of oaks is, to get them to advance ra- 
pidly the first 8 years from seed, or the first 5 years 
from planting, so as the heads of the trees are 
completely united, and become a smothering crop; 
after this is effected, the trees will appear to strive 
to outgrow each other, and will advance in height 
rapidly; they will he clean straight trees, to any 
given height: experiments have proved the fact, 
■which may be verified by viewing Belvoir." 



DIRECTIONS FOR THE REARING OF SILK 
WORMS. 

Pr-ocure eggs in February and March, and 
choose those of a pale slate or clay colour; avoid 
all which are yellow, as they are imperfect. Keep 
them in a cold dry place, (where water will, how- 
ever, not freeze,) until the leaf buds of the rnul- 
beiTy begin to swell. If the eggs be soiled, dip 
the paper or cloth to which they adhere, in -water 
once or twice, to wash oft' the coat with which 
they are covered, and which will impede the latch- 
ing of the worms. It is not necessary to scrape 
oft" the eggs from the paper or cloth on which they 
have been deposited. Dry them quickly in a 
draught of air, aad put them in one or more shal- 



low boxes, lined ■with p»per; ■which place, if pos- 
sible, in a small room, of the temperature of 64°, 
and keep it up to that degree for the two first days, 
by means of a fire in the chimney, or still better, 
in a brick; tile, or porcelain stove; or for want of 
these in an irop stove; and use tanners' waste-bark, 
turf, or chiircoal for fuel, to promote and keep up 
a regular heat day and night. The third day in- 
crease the heat to 66°, the fourth to 6S°, the fifth 
to 71°, the sixth to 73°, the seventh to 75°, the 
eighth to 77°, the ninth to 80°, the tentl), eleventh 
and twelfth to 82°. It is impossible to expect re- 
gularity in hatching, if reliance be jdaced upon 
our variable weather; and it is the regularity of the 
worms coming forth, which will ensure their uni'j 
form growth, save much trouble in feeiling and 
attending tliose of various ages, and cause the 
whole, or the greater part, to form their cocoons 
at the same lime, provided proper care be given 
during their progress. 

When the eggs assume a whitish hue, the worm 
is formed: cover the eggs with white paper, (never 
use a newspaper) pieried full of holes, the size of 
a large knitting needle; the worms, when hatched, 
will creep thi'ough them; turn up the edges of the 
paper to prevent their crawling off. Lsv twigs of 
the mulberry, having two or three dry and young 
leaves on the paper, to collect the worms, anil 
more as they continue to mount. For want of 
mulberry leaves, feed for a short lime upon lettuce 
leaves perfectly dry; if large, they should be cut 
in strips, and the mid-rib thrown away: or, still 
better, fued with the twigs of the white mulbeiry 
tree cut up fine. The worms first iiatclied are the 
strongest; nevertheless, if only a few come out or» 
the first day, give them away, to save trouble, and 
depend upon those which appear on tiie second and 
third days. Give away also the produce of the 
fourth day, and then the whole stock will go on 
regularly. If it be wished to rear all that are 
hatched, endeavour to keep the produce of each 
day separate, by numbering the boxes and shelves. 
When the leaves on the twigs are loaded with 
worms, they are to be gently placed on clean stout 
white paper laid on frames with crossed rattans, 
giving them plenty of room. The shelves, over 
which these frames should slide, may be four feet 
square, and fixed to upright posts; they, may be 
multiplied as required. Whether a distinct build- 
ing or apartment in a dwelling-house be devoted 
to a large parcel, it is absolutely necessary to se- 
cure the command of a gentle circulation of air, 
by having ventilators in the windows, floors, and 
doors. 

One or more tin circular ventilators in place of 
panes of glass, would always* ensure a regular cir- 
culation in the apartment: they may be stopped 
when their motion is not required. Red ants are 
deadly enemies to silk worms; to prevent their at- 
tacks, the posts containing fixed shelves must not 
touch the ceiling, nor must the shelves reach the 
walls; the lower parts of the posts should be smear- 
ed with thick molasses. If the worms are fed oa 
tables or moveable frames, their legs may also be 
smeared with molasses, or put in a dish of water; 
guard also against cockroaches, mice, and other 
vermin. ♦ 

The worms being all hatched, whether they are 
to remain in the first apartment, or be removed to 
another room, or distinct building, the heat must 
be reduced to 75°:, for, as the worms grow older, 
they require less heat. 

It is impossible to insure the regular hatching of 
the worms without the use of a thermometer, 
which may be bought for $2 50 at M'AUister's 
Chesdut street. Philadelphia. 



HUSBANDRY. 



351 



First age — that is, until the -worms have passed 

their Jirst moultinff or changed their first shin. 

The apartment must be light, but the sun must 
not shine on the worms in any stage. 

Feed the worms with the most tender leaves, 
four times a ila)% allowing six hours between each 
neal; give the smallest quantity for the first feeding, 
and gradually increase it at each meal between the 
nioultings. 

In about an hour and a half, the silk worms de- 
vour their portion of leaves, and then remain more 
or less quiet. Wiienever food is given, widen the 
spaces for them; scattered food may be swept into 
its place. 

Experiments may be made as to the comparative 
advantages of using chopped or whole young leaves. 
If chopped, a sharp knife must be used, to prevent* 
the leaves from being bruised, and thei'eby causing 
the exudatio^ of water from them, which would 
prove injurious. On the fourth da}' the skin he- 
comes of a hazel colour and looks shining, their 
heads enlarge and assume a silvery bright appear- 
ance; these are marks of their approaching first 
change. Tiieir food on this day, therefore, may 
be diminished, or, when ihese appearances take 
place, but not before. Enlarge the spaces as tl)e 
worms increase in size. The leaves ought to be 
gathered a few hours before they are used, that 
they may lose their sharpness: they keep very 
well in a cool cellar three days; tlie leaves ought 
to be gathered over night, for the morning's meal, 
to prevent the d.'inger of collec'ving thein iu rainy 
weather. Tike leaves must be pulled carefully, and 
not bruised. On the fourth day the appetites of 
the worms begin to decrease, preparatory to their 
first moulting, and their food must be diminished 
in proi)oition as the orevious meal has not been 
completely eaten. If'tlie precarious heat of llie 
weather has bp»n depended upon, the first change 
may not appear until the sixth or seventh day. 

In the course of the fifth day all the worms be- 
come tor[)id; during this period, and in the subse- 
qaet-.t moultings, the}' must on no account be dis- 
turbed. A few begin to revive at the close of the 
fifth day; some leaves may be then given. After the 
first moulting, the worms are of a dark ash colour. 
Second age. 

As the worms are fond of the young twigs, some 
of these should be spread over them with the leaves 
attached, upon which the worms will immediately 
fasten, and they may then be removed to a clean 
paper; or lay a strip of chopped leaves near the 
worms, and they will leave the old food. 

The litter is to be taken away; but as some of 
the worms often remain among the old leaves, they 
ought to be examined. To this end, the litter 
should be removed to another room, spread out on 
a table, and a few twigs placed over it, on which 
the worms, if any, will mount, when they may be 
added to the others; this rule must be attended to 
after eveiy moulting. Ten per cent, is generally 
allowed for loss of young worms. ' The two first 
meals of the first day should be less plentiful than 
the two last, and must consist of the most tender 
leaves; these must be continued for food until after 
the third moulting. 

If between the moultings any worms should ap- 
pear sick, and cease to eat, they must be removed 
to another room, w here the air is pure and a little 
varmer than that they have left, put on clean paper, 
and some fresh leaves, chopped fine, given to them; 
they will soon recover, and then may be added to 
the others. 

On the third day, the appetite of many worms 
will be visildy diminished; and, in the course of it, 
many will become torpid— the next day all aiv 



torpid; on the fifth day they will all have changed 

their skins and will be roused. 

The colour of the worms in the second age be- 
comes a light grey, the muzzle is white, and the' 
liair hardly to be seen. 

It nmst never be forgotten, that, diu-ingthe time 
the worms are occupied in moulting, the food 
should be greatly diminished, and no more given, 
than will satisfy those which have not yet become 
torpid on the first day, or those which have chang- 
ed their skins before the others. 
T/drd age. 

During this age the thermometer must range be- 
tween 71° and 73°. The revived worms are easily 
known by their new aspect. The l;Uest worms 
shoulil be placed a[)art, as tlicir next moidting will 
be a day later also, or they may be \)Ut in the hot- 
test part of the room to hasten their growth. This 
rule must be observed in the next moulting — in- 
crease the spaces. 

The second day, the two first meals are to be 
the least copious, the two last the greatest, because, 
towards the close of the day, tiie worms grow very 
hungry. The third day will require about the 
same quantity as the preceding last meals; but on 
the fourth day, as the appetites of the worms sen- 
sibly diminish, not more than half tlie former feed 
will be required. The first meal is to be the 
largest: feed those that will eat at any time of the 
day. The fifth day, still less will suffice, as the 
greatest part are moulting; the sixth day they 
begin to rouse. Kemove the litter, or even before 
they have moulted, if the worms are numerous. 
Fowth age. 

The thermometer should range between f)S° and 
71°. If the weather be, warm, and the glass rise 
several degrees higlier, open the ventilators, ex- 
clude the sun, anil make a slii^ht b'aze in the 
chimney, to cause a circulation of tlie air. Widen 
the spaces for the worms. The leaves must now 
be regularly chopped in a straw-cutting box, or 
with a chopping-knife. The food is to be greatly 
increased on the second, third, and fourth days. 
On the fifth, less will be reijuired, as in the course 
of this day many become torpid; the first meal on 
tills day should' therefore be the hirgest. On the 
sixth, they will want still less, as nearly the whole 
■xvill be occupied in effecting their last change of 
skin. Renew the air in the apartment by burning 
straw or shavings in the chinmey, and open the 
ventilators. If the evenings be cool, after a hot 
day, admit the external air for an hour. None but 
full grown leaves should be hereafter given to the 
worms, and they must be all chopped; avoid the 
fi'uit, as they would prove injurious, and add 
greatly to the litter. On the seventh day, all the 
worms will have roused, and thus finish their 
fourth age. The litter must be again removed. 
Fifth age, or itritil the -wortns prepare to mount. 

The thermometer should be about o8°. Tha 
constitution of the worms being nov\' formed, they 
begin to elaborate the silk-vessels, and fill theia 
with the silky material, which they decompose, 
and form from the mulberry leaves. Give abun- 
dance of room: do not let the worms lie so close as 
to touch one another, for their respiration will be 
thereby impeded: continue to feed regularly and 
fully, as the appetite of the worms now becomes 
voracious: give food rather five times a day than 
four; even six meals will not be too many. The 
Jast meal should be late at night, and the first the 
next day in the morning, at an early horn-. The 
worms are not again to be moved, and the hurdles, 
or feeding frames, must be cleaned. On the seventh 
day of the fifth age, tliey have attained their largest 
size, viz. three inches long, and begin to grovr 



352 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



shining and yellow. The appetites of some dimi- 
nish, but tli;it of others continues, and must be 
supplied, to hasten their matuiity. . The litter 
jnust be removed every two days, during the liflii 
ap;e, but not wlien the worms are moulting, unless 
it can be done without disturbing them. 

The ()reservation of the pro\)er temiierature of 
the a|iartmentat this stage, cannot be too seriously 
impressed upon the cultivator. If sudden and 
great lieat in the weather should take place, as 
often happens at this time, serious loss may be 
suffered, without ])roper precautions. The in- 
creased heat lo which tlie worms are exposed, 
causes them to cease eating, to leave their feeding 
shelves, and to wander about tlie room, in order to 
find corners and places to form their cocoons in 
before the silk fluid has been fully elaborated, or 
matured; thus defeating, in a great measure, all 
the care ])reviously bestowed upon tliem. In the 
summer of tlie year 18'25, vast numbers of worms 
were killed by iiot weather, in Mansfield, Connec- 
ticut. To guard against sudden heat in the wea- 
ther, close the window sliutters while the sun is 
beatii'.g on them, and keep the ventilators in liie 
ceiling or otlier parts of the room open; and, if 
possible, tubs of ice slioiild be brought into tiie 
apartment, until the thermometer sliowsa diminu- 
tion of temperature to the proper degree. The 
windows must also be kept open every evening, and 
until sunrise next morning, and water sprinkled 
on the floor, to promote evaporation, and conse- 
quently a freshness in the air. If the worms siiould 
become diseased during tlie fourth or fifth ages, oak 
leaves may be given to them. These were stated 
to have been found verj' beneficial in the year 
i77-2, in Bucks county; but the species of oak was 
not mentioned. The white oak may be tried. 
' Of the rearing' of silk 7vonns in the last period of 

the ffth age, that is, until the cocoon is per- 
fected. 

The fifth age can only be looked on as termi- 
nated, when the cocoon is perfect. 

Tlie cleanliness of the feeding frames in these 
last days of the fifth age, requires great attention, 
to jireserve the health of the silk worms. 

About tlie tenth day of the fifth age, the worms 
attain perfection, which may be ascertained by the 
following indications. 

1st. When on putting some leaves on the wick- 
ers, the insects get upon the leaves without eating 
them, and rear their lieads as if in search of some- 
tiling else. 

2d. When looking at them horizontally, the 
light sliines througli them, and they appear of a 
■whitish-yellow transparent coloar. 

3d. When numbers of tlie worms which were 
fastened to the inside of the edges of the wickers, 
and straightened, now get upon the edges and move 
slowly along, instinct urging them to seek change 
of place. 

4ili. When numbers of worms leave the centre 
of the wickers, and try to reach the edges and 
crawl \\\w\\ tiiem. 

5th. VVheii their rings draw in, and their green- 
ish colour changes to a deep golden hue. 

6th. When their skins become wrinkled about 
the neck, and their bodies have more softness to 
the touch than heretofore, and feel like soft dough. 

"th. When in taking a silk worm in the hand, 
aivd looking through if, the whole body has assum- 
ed the transparency of a ripe yellow plum. When 
these signs appear in any of the insects, every 
thing should be prepared fur their rising, that 
those worms wliich are ready to rise may not lose 
their strength and silk in seeking for the support 
tliey require. Handle the worms at this stage with the 
greatest gentleness, as the slightest pressure injures 



them. When moved, thoy should be left on the 
twigs or leaves to wiiich they are fastened, to pre- 
vent their being hurt by tearing them oflT. A blunt 
hook should be used to take up those not adhering 
to leaves or twigs. 

Preparation of the hedge. 
A week or ten days before the worms are ready to 
mount, bundles of twigs of chesnut, liickoi7, oak, 
or of the birch of which stable brooms are made, 
must be procured, prepared, and arranged in 
bunches, so that the worms may easily climb up 
them, to work their cocoons. As soon as it is ob- 
served that the worms want to rise, the bundles of 
twigs must be arranged on the feeding trays, leav- 
ing fifteen inches between them. The top branches 
should touch the lower jiart of the tray above that 
i on which they are placed, so as to form an arcH — 
and be placed a little aslant, that the worms, when 
climbing, may not fall oft'. The branches should 
be spread out like fans, that the air may penetrate 
through all parts, and the worms work with ease. 
When the worms are too near one another, they 
do not work so well, and form double cocoons, 
which are only worth half a single round cocoon. 
Leave openings at the tops of the curves, for the 
worms to form their cocoons in. 

As soon as the worms are prepared to rise, the 
feeding frames should be cleaned thoroughly, and 
the apartment well ventilated-. Put the worms 
wliich are ready to rise near the hedges, and give 
a few leaves to those that are still inclined to eat. 
After they have begun to rise, those that are weak 
and lazy do not eat, do not seem to be inclined to 
rise, and remain motionless on the leaves. These 
should be taken away, and put in a clean dry room, 
of at least 75° of heat, where there are hurdles co- 
vered with paper, and the liedge prepared for 
them. The increased heat will cause them to rise 
directly. All the silk worms being oft' the hurdles, 
they should be immediately cleaned. The tem- 
perature of the room should be between C8° and 
7i°. Wiien the worms are forming their cocoons, 
the utmost silence must be preserved in the room, 
as they are very sensible to noise, and, if disturbed, 
will for a moment cease to spin; thus the continuity 
of the thread will be interrupted, and the value 
of the cocoon diminished. When tlie cocoons have 
attained a certain consistency, the apartment may 
be left quite open. 

Sixth age, beginning in the chrysalis state, and 
ending -zvhen the moths appear. 
The following are the necessary things to be done: 

I. To gather the cocoons. 

II. To choose the cocoons which are to be pre- 
served for the eggs. 

III. Preservation of cocoons until the appearance 
of the moth. 

/. Gathering of the cocoons. 

Strong, healthy, and well managed silk worms, 
will complete their cocoons in three days and a half 
at farthest, reckoning from.the moment when they 
first begin casting the floss. This period will be 
shorter, if the silk worms S)iin the silk in a liigh- 
er temperature than that which has been indicated, 
and in very dry air. 

It will be better not to take off' the cocoon be- 
fore the eighth or ninth day, reckoning from the 
lime when the silk worm first rose. They may be 
taken offon the seventh, if the laboratories have been 
conducted with such regularity, that the time may 
be known with certainty, when this may be done. 

Begin on the lower tier of hurdles, and take the 
cabins down gently, giving them to those who are 
to gather the cocoons; place a basket between two 
of the gatherers to receive the cocoons; another 
person should receive the stripped bushes, which 
may be laid by for aoother yaar. All tlie cocoon« 



HUSBAIMDRY. 



36i 



tliat want a certain consistency, and feel soft- 
should be laid aside, that they may not be mixed 
M-iih the better.' Empty the baskets u])on hurdles 
, or trpys placed in rows, and spread tlie cocoons 
about four fingers deep, or nearl)- to tlie top of 
the feedins; frame. ^Vllen tlie cocoonsare detach- 
ed, the down or floss in whicii the silk worms 
have formed the cocoon, should be taken off. If 
the cocoons are for sale, weijjh them, and send 
them to the pin-chaser. The baskets, the floor and 
all tilings used, should be cleaned. 

When i^athering the cocootis, make four assort- 
ments: — 1st. Those designed for breed. 2d. The 
dupions, or double ones. 3d. The firmest of those 
■which are to bo reeled. 4th. Those of a looser 
texture. 

/7? Clioosin^ the cocoons for the production of eggs. 
About two ounces of eggs may be saved out of 
one pound and a half r)f male and female cocoons. 
The small cocoons of a straw colour, with liard 
ends, and fine webs, and which are a little de- 
pressed in the middle, as if tightened by a ring or 
circle, are to be preferred. There are no certain 
signs to distinguisli the male froi'u the female co- 
conns: the best known are the following. 

The small cocoons sharper at one, or botn ends, 
and depressed in the middle, generally produce 
tlie male. Tl»e round fidl cocoons without ring 
or depresbion in the middle, usually contain the 
female. 

These may be distinguished from the dupions 
by the extra size, the clumsy shape, rather round 
than oval, of the latter. As however, all marks 
may fail, an extra number may be kept, of the 
best of those which are spun double; and when the 
moths come out, the males and temales being easily 
distinguished, an addition can be made from them 
to the defective side. 

By shaking the cocoon close to tlie ear, we may 
generally ascertain whether the clirysalis be alive, 
if it be dead, and loosened from the cocoon, it 
yields a sharp sound. When dead, it yields a 
muffled sound, and is more confined in the co- 
coon. 

Jll. Preservation of cocoons intended for seed, or 
until tlie apjiearance of the moth. 
Experience shows that where the temperature 
of ihe room is above 73 deg. the transition of the 
chrysalis to the moth state would be too rapid, and 
the coupling will not be productive; if below 6G 
deg. the development of the moth is t;irdy, which 
is also injurious. Damp air will change it into a 
■weak and sickly moth; the apartment should there- 
fore be kept in an even dry temperature, between 
66 deg. and 73 deg. When collected, spread the 
cocoons ou a dry floor, or on tables, and strip 
them clean of down or floss, to prevent the feet 
of the moth from being entangled in it when com- 
ing out. While cleaning them, all those that ap- 
pear to have any defect sliould be laid aside; this 
is the time, also, to separate the male and female 
cocoons, as far as we can distinguish them. 

Select an equal number of males and females, 
,and keep the cocoons of the same day's mounting 
separate, that the moths may pierce them at the 
same time. If the good cocoons taken from the 
■whole parcel, are all first mixed, and the selection 
for those intended for breeding be made from liiis 
general heap, many will be set aside, whicii were 
formed by worms that iiad mounted upon different 
days, and whicli will be pierced by the moths un- 
equally, and hence there will not be an equal num- | 
her of' males and females produced at the same i 
time; this irregular appearance may cause the loss 
of a great many moths, or of several thousand 
eggs. 

When th3 selection has \K<ia. made, the sortod 
a U 



cocoons must be put on tables, in layers of about 
two inches, allowing the air to pass freely through 
them, that it may not be necessary to stir them 
frequently; hut it is beneficial to stir them round 
once a day, if the air be moist. When the seed 
cocoons are not very numerous, they may be strung 
upon tlireads, and hung against a wall, or suspend- 
ed from a beam. Just so much of the middle of 
the cocoon is to be pierced with a needle as is suf- 
ficient to .attach, it to the tliread. The middle is 
chosen, because it cannot be ascertained at which 
end the moth will i)ierce the cocoon. Place a male 
and female cocoon alternately upon the thread, that 
they may be near each otlier when they come out. 
If the heat of the apartment is above 75°, every 
method of diminishing the heat should be tried: 
such as keeping all the apertures to the sunny side 
carefully closed, to cause thorough drafts of air to 
dry the humidity that exhales from the chrysalides. 
Should the temperatui-e rise to 78'' or 82°, tho co- 
coous must be put in a cooler place, as a dry cellar. 
Seventh age of the xilk -worm. 
The seventh, and the last age of the silk worm, 
comprises the entire life of the moth. 

The formation of the moth, and its disposition 
to issue from the cocoon, may be ascertained when 
one of its extremities is ))erceived to be wet, which 
is the part occui)ied by the head of the moth. A 
few hours after, and sometimes in one hour after, 
the moth will pierce the cocoon and come out; oc- 
casionally the cocoon is so hard, and so wound in 
silk, that the moth in vain strives to come forth, 
and dies in the cocoon. Sometimes the female de- 
posits some eggs in the cocoon before she can get 
out, and often perishes in it; this circumstance has 
induced some to extract the chi^salis from the co- 
coon by cutting it, that the moth may have only to 
pierce its thin envelope; but the experienced Dan- 
dolo disapproves of the practice (although he has 
performed the operation with success) because it 
is tedious; and should the moth be put on a plain 
surface, five in a hundred will not be able to get 
out, but will drag the envelope along, and at last 
die, not being able to disencumber themselves. 
If the surface be not smooth, the moths will issue 
■with greater ease; it is very favourable to the moths 
when they put forth their head and first legs, to 
find some substance to ■which theym.iy fasten, and 
thus ficilitate clearing out of the cocoon by the 
support. For this reason, they should be spread 
out very thin on tables covered with a muslin or 
linen cloth. The life of the moth lasts, in Italy, 
ten, eleven, or twelve days, according to the 
strength of its constitution, and the mildness of 
the atmosphere. With Jlr Dusar, of Philadel- 
phia, the moths lived from five to eight days; a hot 
tcmpenature accelerates their operations and the 
drying which precedes their deatli. 

Hutching of tlie moths, and their preservation. 
Cocoons kept in a temperature of 66 degrees be- 
gin to be hatched after fifteen diiys; those kept ia 
a heat between 71 and 73 degrees, begin to come 
forth after eleven or twelve days. The room in 
■«'hich the moths are produced should be dark, or 
at least there should be only sufficient light to dis- 
tinguish objects. This is an important rule, and 
must be carefully attended to. The moths do not 
come forth in great numbers the first or the second 
day, but are chiefly hatched on the fourth, fifth, 
sixth, and seventh days, according to the degree 
of heat in which the cocoons have been kept. The. 
hours when the moths burst the cocoons in the 
greatest numbers, are the liiree and four hours af- 
ter sunrise, if the temperature is from G4 to Go de- 
gi-ees. The male moths, the veiy moment they 
come out, go eagerly In quest of the female; when 
thev are united, they must be placed on frames 

'2 E 2 



354 



UNIVERSAL KECETPT BOOK. 



covered with linen, and made in such a manner as 
to allow the linen to be changed when soijed. 
Much care must be taken in raising the united 
moths; they must be held by the wings in order 
not to separate them. When one small table is 
tilled with moths in a state of union, they are to 
be carried into a small room, sufficiently airy and 
fresh, and which can be made very dark. Having 
employed the first hours of the day in selecting 
and carrying the united moths, the males and fe- 
males which are found separate on the tables, are 
to be brought into contact, put on frames and car- 
ried into the dark room. It is easy to ascertain if 
there are more females than males. The body of 
the female is nearly double the size of that of tlie 
male; besides, the male which is single, beats 
about its wings at the least approach of liglit; the 
hour must be noted at which the tables containing 
tlie united moths are placed in the dark room. 

If, after this operation is over, there still remain 
some moths of each sex, they are to be placed in 
a small box with a perfoi-ated cover, until the mo- 
ment favourable for their union arrives. From 
time to time, tliey must be looked at, to see if they 
separate, in order that they may be brought anew 
into contact. 

When any thing is to be done in the dark cham- 
ber, as little light as possible must be admitted; 
only sufficient to distinguish objects. The more 
light there is, the more tiie moths are disturbed 
and troubled in their operations, as light is too 
stimulating for them. The boxes are very con- 
venient to keep quiet the males which remain, and 
thus prevent the fine powder adhering to their 
■wings from flying about, and the destruction of tiieir 
•wings, and consequently their vital power. The 
cocoons must be removed as fast as they are pierced 
by the moth, for being moist, tiiey communicate 
their humidity to those which are still entire. The 
paper, also, on the trays, when soiled, is to be i-e- 
moved, and fresh supplied. Constant attention is 
required during the whole day, as there is a suc- 
cession in the process of hatching, and union of 
the moths, which occasionally vary in relative 
proportion to one another. Instead of a frame, 
paper may be used for receiving the eggs. A few 
good cocoons will not produce a moth, owing to 
their hardness, which prevents the moth from 
making a hole by which to come forth. 

Separation of the moth, and laying the eggs. 

If there be an excess of males, they must be 
thrown away; if of females, males must be allotted 
to them, which have already been in a state of 
union. Great care must be taken, when the cou- 
ples are separated, not to injure the males. The 
male ought not to remain united more than six 
nours; after the lapse of that time, take the moths 
by the wings and body, and separate them gently. 
All the males which are no longer in union, must 
he placed upon a frame; the most vigorous after- 
wards selected, and united with those females 
which have not yet had a mate. Other vigorous 
males must be preserved in a separate box, and 
kept in darkness. When there is a want of males, 
let them remain united to the female the first time 
only five hours instead of six; the females are not 
injured by wi«ting for the male even many hours; 
the only loss sustained is that of some eggs, which 
are not impregnated. Before separating the two 
sexes, prepare, in a cool, dry, airy chamber, the 
linen on which the moth is to deposit its eggs. 

Six hours, as just said, is the usual time for the 
moths to remain united, for in that time the eggs 
of the female will be fully impregnated. It is 
also the general practice not to use the male for 
another female; but Mr Delonchamps assures us, 
that in the event of having more female thau male 



I moths, tl;ie latter may be again used to profit. In 
the year 1824, he raised many worms from eggs, 
the produce of a sixth coupling, which were fully 
equal to those produced from eggs at the first; the 
union continued never less than from 20 to 24 
iiours; the male after a sixth union appeared as 
lively and brisk as at first, but he had no more 
females. The eggs from even a thirteenth union 
of tlie same male with different females, had all 
the characters of those of the best quality. In 
these cases, the disunion of the pair was, moreover, 
never spontaneous, but always required to be ef- 
fected by the hands. 

The following is the manner in which the cloth 
must be arranged: — 

At the bottom of a tressel or frame, which must 
be proi)ortioned to the number of moths, place 
horizontally, on each side of the lengtli, two 
boards, so arranged, that one of their sides may 
be nailed to the tresse!, about five inclies and a 
half higli above the ground, and that the other 
side of tlie board shall be a little higher, and pro- 
ject outwards. Upon the tressel lay a cloth, so 
that it may hang equalh' on each side. The ends 
of the cloth must cover the boards below; the more 
jierpendicular the lateral i)arts of the tressel are, 
the less soiled will be the cloth by the evacuation 
of the liquid from the moths. The moths which 
have been united six hours ai-e then io be gently 
separated, the females placed on the frame, and 
carried to the tressel and i)laced on the cloth, one 
over another, beginningat the top and going down- 
wards. Note the time at which the moths are 
placed on the cloth, and keep those which are 
placed afterwards separate, to avoid confusion. 

The females that have had a virgin mate must 
be treated in the same manner as those which have 
been united with one that had been coupled pre- 
viously five hours. The females should be left on 
the cloth 3G or -iO iiours, without being touched; 
at this time, if it be observed that the linen has 
not been well stocked with eggs, other females 
must be placed upon it, in order that the egg« 
may be equally distributed. When the heat of the 
room is 77 or 79 degrees, or when at 63 or 65 de- 
grees, the eggs will be yellow, that is unimpreg- 
nated; or of a reddish colour, that is imperfectly 
impregnated, and will not produce worois: the 
temperature of the room must therefore be kept 
between these extremes. Sometimes a female 
moth will escape from its mate before fmpregna- 
tion, and produce many useless eggs. 

The female cocoons, as before noted, are gene- 
rally larger than the males, and not so much pointed 
as these are, and are without the ring or dejiression 
in the middle, which comrVionly distinguishes tlie 
cocoons containing the latter. 

Eight or ten days after the deposition of the 
eggs, the jonquil colour peculiar to them will 
change to a reddish gi"ay, and afterwards into a 
pale clay hue; they are of a lenticular form, auil on 
both surfaces there i. a slight depression. 
Preservation of the eggs. 

Collect the eggs which have fallen on the cloth 
covering the shelves of the tressel, wlienqiiite dry, 
put them in a box, and, if numerous, in layers not 
more than half the breadth of the finger. The 
cloths raised from the tressel when quite tlry, are 
to be foliled and placed in a dry room, the tempe- 
rature of which does not exceed 65°, nor below the 
freezing point, 32°. 

During the summer the cloths must be examined 
every month, to remove insects; and to preserve 
the cloths always in fresh air, if the quantity be 
large, place them on a frame of cord attached to 
the ceiling, or a rafter. A barrel-hoop, crossed 
witli stout pack-thread, will make a good frame. 



HUSBANDRY. 



355 



A small quantity may be kept in a tin case. If a 
board box be used, tlie joints and edges of the top 
should be pasted with paper to exclude ants. 

There exists a notion that every two or three 
years the eg!»s should be clianged. It requires lit- 
tle to be said on this egregious error. To suppose 
that the good cocoons ot a cultivator, after a few 
years, are no longer fit to produce seed, and yet 
tliat these cocoons can give good seed for the use 
of another, would be to admit a superstitious con- 
li-adiction, which reason, practice, and science, 
alike condemn. A change of seed can only be 
necessary, when from great neglect, for a series of 
years, of the worms, a diminutive race has been 
liroduced. Worms properly treated, will never 
degenerate. On the subject of the degeneracy of 
silk worms, in the United States, the most j>osi- 
tive information can be given. 

Mr Samuel Alexander, of Philadelphia, says, 
"lam convinceil that silk worms, cultivatetl in 
Pennsylvania, instead of degenerating, improve; 
proof of which I possess, in comparing the cocoons 
of four years since, witii those of the last year. I 
can say with truth, the worms hatched from the 
eggs 1 brought from the south of Europe, have 
pi-o(hiced annually better silk." The testimony 
of Mr Sharrod ^i'Call, of Galaden county, Flo- 
rida, is still more decisive. 

A sample of l»eautiful sewing-silk, sent with his 
communication to the Secretary of the Treasiii-y, 
was part of a parcel produced by worms, the stock 
of which he has had thirty years; and they were 
obtained from a maternal ancestor, who had pos- 
sessed them ma«y years before. 

During all this long period, no degeneracy has 
been observed. Let proper care be taken of silk 
worms, and no deterioration will take place. 

The time has passed when the idle reveries of 
Bufton, Robertson, De Pauw, and others, respect- 
ing the tendency of nature " to belittle" and de- 
generate every thing foreign in the new world, were 
received as truths. Facts, proud facts, demon- 
strate not only the absurdity of their positions, but 
the superiority of every American animal ami vege- 
table, when compared with similar productions in 
the old world. 

To bake cocoons. 

Cocoons reel more readily, and yield silk of a 
superior quality, without killing the insect by either 
steam of hot water, or by baking them; but those 
who have not the means of reeling off their co- 
coons in two or three days after they are formed, 
or of selling them, must kill the insects they con- 
tain, or they will eat through, and spoil the coeoons 
by breaking the continuity of the thread. The 
easiest way to do this, is to bake them in an oven, 
which must be about as hot as when bread has been 
taken out of it. After picking out all the spotted 
cocoons, put the rest in flat baskets, filling them 
withiik an inck of the top: cover them with paper, 
and a wrapper over it: put these baskets in the 
oven, and after an hour, draw them out, and cover 
them with a woollen rug, leaving the wrapper as it 
was. Let them stand five or six hours, to keep in 
the heat and stifle the chrj-salis. Then spread 
them in thin layers on shelves, and move them 
every day (to prevent their beconwng mouldy) un- 
til perfectly dry. It may be important to state, 
tliat the birth of the moth may be prolonged a 
month by keeping the cocoons in a very cold drj' 
cellar. If the coeoons are kept over summer, they 
must be protected from ants, mice, and cockroches. 

N. B. Mr D. Tees, No. 150, North Front street, 
and B. F. Pomeroy, corner of Walnut and Dock 
streets, Philadelphia, are reoomraeaded to those 
^ho wish to have silk-reels made. 



Oil the culture of the tehite mulberry tree. 

Tl)e proper soils for this tree are d'ly, sandy, or 
stony: the more stony the better, provided the 
roots can penetrate them. The situation should be 
high: low, rich, and moist lands never produce 
nourishing leaves, however vigorously the trees 
may gi-ow. Tliey are always fomid to be too waleiT, 
The same remark may be made upon the leaves of 
young seedling plants, wIiIch will not produce good 
or abundance of silk, and are only proper when. 
tl>e worms are young; say in their two first ages. 
It may be useful to have a parcel of these growinij 
in a warm situation, that they may come forward 
before large trees, ami serve for early food. 

Mulberry trees may be propagated by — 1st, seed; 
2d, gi-jfting; 3d, budding; 4th, layers; otii, cut- 
tings; 6lh, suckers. 

The rii>e fruit may be sown in drills, in ground 
previously prepared; or the seeds may be washed 
out of the pulp, and mixed with an equal quantity 
of sand or fine mould, and tlieu sown. They 
should be covered about a quarter of an inch deep. 
The seeds will soon vegetate if tlie ground be rich, 
and will live through the winter, unless the cold 
should be unusually severe. A (luantity of plants 
from seeds thus treated, lived throngh the cold 
winter of ISiJa — 6, in Philadelphia. In veiy cold 
weather, the young plants may be covered with 
straw, or long manure. The following spring, thin 
the plants so tliat they ra«y stand one foot apart at 
least. Seeds intended to be sown in the spring, 
or to be kept, should be washed out, as they are 
apt to heat, or to mould, if permitted to remain in 
the fruit. Land destined for spring sowing should 
be dug- op ploughed in the preceding autumn, left 
rough all winter, and be harrowed or raked fine, as 
soon as the season will permit, and the seed sown 
in drills. The young plants must be watered in 
dry weather, and weeds carefully kept down. 
Weeds will not only stint the growth of the plants, 
but cause disease in them, which may aft'ect tlie 
future vigour and health of the tree. In the second 
year transplant them to two feet distance from one 
another, to give rooni for cleansing and dressing 
the huid. W hen transplanting, cut off some of \ivi 
roots, especially those that are ragged or decayed, 
and the tap root, to force out lateral roots; and also 
the tops, at six or seven inches from the ground. 
When the \>latits in the nursery have sprung, strip 
off^ the side buds, and leave none but such as are 
necessary to form the hea<1 of the tree. The buds 
which are left should be opposite to one another. 
If the plants in the nursery do not shoot well the 
first year, in the month of March following cut 
them over, about seven inches from the ground, 
and they will grow briskly. They should be wa- 
tered with diluted barn-yard water. 

When the plants have grown to the size of one 
inch in diameter, plant them^ out in fields or places 
where they are to remain, and make the hole six 
feet square: trim the roots, and press the earth on 
the roots as the holes are filled. During the first 
year of planting out, leave all the buds which the 
young trees have pushed out on the top till the fol- 
lowing spring, when none are to be left, but three 
or four branches to form the head of the tree. The 
buds on those branches should be on the outside of 
them, that the shoots may descril>e a circle round 
tl>e stem, and tliat the interior of the tree may be 
kept open: and as the buds come out, rub off all 
those on the bodies of the trees. For several years 
after, every spring, open the beads of the tree* 
when too thick of wood, and cut ott' any branch 
which crosses or takes the lead of the rest, leaving 
two buds on the outside of every ti-immed branch. 
11 Couut Verri, of Italy, an experienecd cidtivator of 



3r)6 



UNm^RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the mulberry tree, recommends to leave only one 
liud at the end of every branch, preferrin;^ lliose 
Avhich are outside, and opposite to eacli other; and 
■when three buds aj)pear togetlier, to leave tiie mid- 
dle one, -which is always most vigorous, and to de- 
tach the two on each side of it. If the superior 
buds do not push well, the two next lower ones 
inusl be left. Every farmer knows the very great 
importance of dressing ground round young trees 
twice in the course of a year, and of securing them 
to stakes, to insure an upright straight growth, and 
to prevent their being shaken by winds, or levelled 
by storms. The trees may be planted at the usual 
distances of apple trees. Tiie intervals may be 
eultivated in cabbages, turnips, or mangel wurtzel. 
The attendance necessary to Indiaa coru would en- 
danger the young trees. 

it is so much the practice in the United States 
to let trees take their chance for growing, after they 
have been planted, or sprung up from seeds or 
stones, that these particular directions maj' be dis- 
regarded. But let a comparative experiment be 
made with mulberry trees permitted to grow at 
vill, and others treated as here directed, and tlie 
difterence in their beauty and growth will be ob- 
vious. The advantage, in these respects, will be 
■decidedly in favour of ti-ees which have beeu at- 
tended to. 

Without deciding upon the superiority of the 
various modes of propagating mulbei-ry trees, it is 



thought proper to mention the great advatitage of 
tiie mode of budding. In the year 18'2o, Mr Mil- 
lington, of Missouri, " budded tlie white mulberry 
on stocks of native trees; and such as were done 
before July, were forced out immediately b)' cut- 
ting off" the stocks al)ove the buds. Some of these 
bulls made limbs more than two feet long by.the 
srth October. The buds put in after the middle 
of July, he did not intend to force out until the 
following spring. He thinks budding more expe- 
ditious and surer than engrafting, and when it fails, 
does not injure the stock so much as this mode. 
Native stocks, to engraft or bud on, can be pro- 
cured with ease; and the trees thus raised would 
not be liable to disease in their roots, like foreign 
trees: and these engrafted or budded trees would 
grow much faster, and furnish leaves much sooner, 
and of a larger size, and better quality. This will 
not be doubted by those who have observed Iiow 
much faster an engrafted tree grows, and how much 
larger its leaves are than those of a seedling ti-ee." 
Experience has fully shown that tiie leaves of the 
native mulberry tree produce good and strong silk, 
although not so fitie as that from tiie white mul- 
berry. Those, therefore, who have only the na- 
tive tree, may begin their operations with it: and 
they will acquire a knowledge of the business of 
rearing silk worms, while tlie foreign species is 
growing. 



RURAS. ^ISB BOMESSTIC; UCOMOWLIT. 



TO MANAGE A DAIRY. 

Improved mode of feeding and milking cows, near 
Farnham in SitiTi/. 
Directions to the cow feeder. — Go to the cow- 
stall at f) o'clock in the morning, winter and sum- 
mer; give each cow half a bushel of the mangel- 
wurzel, carrots, turnips, or potatoes, cut; at 7 
o'clock, the hour the dairy maid comes to milk 
them, give each some hay, and let them feed, till 
they are all milked. — If any cow refuses hay, give 
her something she will eat, such as grains, carrots, 
&c. during the time she is milking, as it is abso- 
lutely necessary the cow should feed whilst milk- 
ing. As soon f.s the woman has finished milking 
in the morning, turn the cows into the airing 
ground, and let there be plenty of fresh water in 
the troughs; at 9 o'clock give each cow 3 gallons 
of the mixture, (as under: to S'gallons of grains 
add 4 gallons of bran or pollard;) when they have 
eaten that, put some hay into the cribs; at 12 
o'clock give each 3 gallons of the mixture as he- 
lore; if any cow looks for more, give her another 
gallon; on the contrary, if she will not eat what 
you gave her, take it out of the manger, for never 
at one time let a cow have more than she will eat 
Up clean. — Mind and keep the mangers clean, that 
they do not get sour. At 2 o'clock give each cow 
half a bushel of carrots, mangel-wurzel, or tur- 
liips; look the turnips, &c. &c. over well, before 
giving them to the cows, as one rotten turnip will 
give u bad taste to the milk, and most likely spoil 
a whole dairy of butter. At 4 o'clock put the cows 
fntothe stall to be milked; feed them on hay as 
yott did at milking-tiiue iu the jnorning, keeping 



in mind that the cow whilst milking must feed on 
something. At 6 o'clock give each cow 3 gallons 
of the mixture as before. Racktliem up at li 
o'clock. Twice in a week put into each cow'a 
feed at noon, a quart of malt-dust. 

** The daily expense of subsisting each cow 
on the above feed will be about two shillings. 

Directions to the dairy maid. — Go to the cow- 
stawl at 7 o'clock; take with you cold water and a 
sponge, and wash each cow's udder clean before 
milking; dowse the udder well with cold water, 
winter and summer, as it braces and repels heats. 
Keep your hands and arms clean. Milk each cow 
as dry as you can, morning and evening, and when 
j'ou milk each cow as you suppose dry, Ijegin again 
with the cow you first milked, and drip them each; 
for the principal reason of cows failing in their 
milk is from negligence in not milking the cow- 
dry, particularly at the time the calf is taken front 
the cow. Suffer no one to milk a cow hut yourself, 
and have no gossiping in the stall. Every Satur- 
day night give in an exact account of the quantity of 
milk each cow has given in the xyeek. 
To make oats prove doubly mUritions to horses. 

Instead of grmding the oats, break them in a 
mill; and the same quantity will prove iloubly nu- 
triti-ous. Another method is, to l)oil the corn, and 
give the horses the liquor in whicii it lias been 
boiled; the result will be, that instead of G bushels 
in a crude state, 3 bushels so prepared will be 
found to answer, and to keep the animals in supe- 
rior vigour and condition. 

Cheap 7neihod of rearing homed cattle. 

After having expressed the oil from thelinseecTj 
make up the remaining husks or dross into round 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



557 



balls of the size of a fist, and afterwards diy tliem; 
infuse and dissolve two or three of these lialls in 
Jiot water, and add in the bej^inning a third or 
fourth part of fresh milk, hut tifterwards, when the 
calves are grown, mix only skim milk with the 
infusion. 

To rear calves. 
The best method of rearing; calves, is to take 
them oft' the cows in three weeks or a month, and 
to give them notliing but a lillle fine hay, until 
they begin through necessity to pick a little: then 
cut some of the hay and mix it with bran or oats 
m a trough, and slice some turnips about the size 
of a crown piece, wliich they will soon by licking 
leai'n to eat: after which give them turnips enough. 
'Jo rear calves -dthoiit milk. 
In two or three days after they are calved take 
the calves from the cows, put them in a house by 
tjjemselves, then give them a kind of water gruel, 
composed of about one-third of barley and two- 
thirds of oats ground together very tine, then sift 
the mixture tlu-ough a verj' fine sieve, put it into 
the quantity of water below mentioned, and boil 
it half an hour, when take it off the fire, and let it 
remain till it is milk-warm; then give each calf 
about a quart in the morning, and the same qtiantitj' 
in the evening, 'and increa-se it as the calf grows 
older. It requires verj' little trouble to make tiiem 
drink it; after the calves have had this diet about a 
>veek or ten days, tie up a little bundle of hay and 
put it in the middle of the house, Avhich they will 
by degrees come to eat: also put a little of the 
meal above mentioned in a small trough for them 
to eat occJsionally; keep them in this manner until 
they are of proper age to turn out to grass, before 
\ihich they must be at least two months old. 

Another method. — Make an infusion of malt, or 
fresh wort as a substitute for milk; in summer it 
may be given to the calves cold, but in winter it 
must liave the same degree of warmth as the milk 
just coming from the cow; the quantity is the same 
as the milk commonly given at once to a calf, and 
to be increased in proportion as the calf grows. 
To fatten poultri/. 
An experiment has lately been tried of feeding 
geese with turnips cut in small pieces like dice, 
but less in size, and put into a trough of water; 
vith this food alone, tlie effect was that 6 geese, 
each when lean weighing onlj' 9 lbs., actuall}- 
gained 20 lbs. each in about 3 weeks fattening. 

Malt is an excellent food for geese and turkeys, 
grains are preferred for the sake of economy, un- 
less for immediate and rapid fattening: the grains 
should be boiled afresh. 

Other cheap articles for fattening are oatmeal 
and treacle; barley-meal and milk; boiled oats and 
ground malt. 

Corn before being given to fowls should always 
be crushed and soaked in water. The food will 
thus go further, and it will help digestion. Hens 
fed tiius have been known to lay during the whole 
of tlie winter months. 

To choose a milch co-w. 
As to a choice of breeds for a private family, 
rone in England, (says Mr Lawrence,) probably 
combine so many advantages as the Suftolk dun- 
oows. They excel both in (quantity and quality of 
milk; they feed well after they become barren; 
they are smalt-sized, and polled or hornless; the 
last a great convenience. The horns of cows which 
butt and gnre otliers, should be immediately broad 
tipped. There is a breed of polled Yorkshire or 
Holderness cows, some of them of middling size, 
great milkers, and well adapted to the use of fami- 
lies, wiiere a great quantity of milk is required, 
and where price is no object, and food in ])lenty. 
If richer milk and a comparison of the two famous 



I breeds be desired, one of each may be selected, 
I namely, the last mentioned, and the other of the 
I midland county, or long liorned species. Colour 
j is so far no object, that neither a good cow nor a 
! good horse can be of a bad colour; nevertheless, 
I in an ornamental view, the sheeted and pied stock 
I of the Yorkshire short-horns, make a picturesque 
figure in the grounds. 

The Alderney cows yield rich milk upon less 
food than larger stock, l)ut are seldom large milk- 
ers, and are particularly scanty of produce in the 
winter season. They are, besides, worth little or 
nothing as barreners, not only on account of their 
small size, but their inaptitude to take on fat, and 
the ordinary quality of their beef. 

To determine the economij of a cotu. 
The annual consumption of food i>er cow, if turn- 
ed to grass, is from one acre to an acre and a half 
in the summer, and from a ton to a ton and half of 
hay in the winter. A cow may be allowed 2 pecks 
of carrots per day. The grass being cut and car- 
ried will economize it full one-third. The annual 
product of a good fair dairy cow, during several 
months after calving, and either in summer or 
winter, if duly fed and kept in the latter season, 
will be an average of seven pounds of butter per 
week, from five to three gallons of milk per dwy. 
Afterwards, a weekly average of three or four lbs. 
of butter from barely half the quantity of milk. 
It depends on the constitution cf the cow, how 
nearly she may be milked to the time of her calv- 
ing, some giving good milk until within a week or 
two of that period, others requiring to be dried 8 
or 9 weeks previously. 1 have heard (s.ays Mr 
Lawrence) of 20 lbs. of butter, and even 22 lbs. 
made from the milk of one long-horned cow in se- 
ven days: but I have never been fortunate enough 
to obtain one that would produce more than 12 lbs. 
per week, although I have had a Yorkshire cow 
which milked seven gallons per day, j'et never 
made 5 lbs. of butter in one week. On the aver- 
age, three gallons of good milk will make 1 lb. of 
butter. 

To breed pheasants. 
Eggs being provided, put them under a heh that 
has kept the nest three or four days: and if you set 
two or three hens on the same day, you will have 
the advantage of shifting the good eggs. The hens 
having set their full time, such of the young phea- 
sants as are already hatched, put in a basket, with 
a ])iece of flannel, till the hen has done hatching. 
The brood, now come, put under a frame with a 
net over it, and a place for the hen, that she can- 
not get to the young pheasants, but that they may 
go to her: and feed them with boiled egg cut 
small, boiled milk and bread, alum curd, ants' 
eggs, a little of each sort, and often. After 2 or 3 
days they will be acquainted with the call of the 
heu thathatched them, may have their liberty to 
run on the grass-pl.it, or elsewhere, observing to 
shift them with the sun and out of the cold winds; 
they need not have their liberty in the morning till 
the sun is up; and they must be shut in with the 
hen in good time in the evening. You must be 
veiy careful in order to guard ao;ainst the distem- 
per to which they are liable, in the choice of a sit- 
uation for breeding the birds up; where no poultry, 
pheasants, or turkeys, &c. have ever been kept; 
such as tlie warm side of a field, orchard or plea- 
sure ground, or garden, or even on a common, or 
a good green lane, under circumstances of this 
kind; or by a wood side; but then it is proper for a 
man to keep with them under a temporary hovel, 
and to have two or three dogs chained at a proper 
distance, with * lamp or two at night. 

The birds going on as before mentioned, should 
so continue till September, or (if very early bred). 



3..8 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



the middle of August. Before they Ijegin to shift 
the long feathers in the tail, they are to be shut up 
in the basket with the hen regularly every night. 
For such young ]iheasiints as are chosen for breed- 
ing stock at liome, and likewise to turn out in the 
following spring, provide a new piece of ground, 
large and roomy for two i)eras, where no pheasants 
&c. have been kept, and there put the young birds 
in as they begin to shift their tails. Such of them 
as are intended to be turned out at a future time, 
or m another place, put into one pen netted over, 
and leave their wings as they are; and those want- 
ed for breeding put into the other ])en, cutting one 
■wing of each bird. The gold and silver phea- 
sants pen earlier, or they will be off. Cut the 
"wing often; and when first penned feed ijU tlie 
young birds with barley-meal, dough, corn, plenty 
of green turnips, and alum curd, to make whi.ch, 
take new milk, as much as the young birds require, 
and boil it with a lump of alum, so as not to make 
the curd hard and tough, but custardlike. 

A little of this curd twice a day, and ants' eggs 
after eveiy time they have had a sufficient quanti- 
ty of the other food. Iftlieydonot eat heartily, 
give them some ants' eggs to create an appetite, but 
by no means in such abundance as to be consider- 
ed their food. 

Not more than four hens should be allowed in 
the pens to one cock. Never put more eggs un- 
der a hen than she can well and closely cover; the 
eggs being fresh and carefully preserved. Short 
broods to be joined and shifted to one hen; common 
hen pheasants in close pens, and with plenty of co- 
ver, will sometimes make their nests and hatch their 
own eggs; but they seldom susceed in rearing their 
brood, being so naturally shy; whence should this 
method be desired, the)' must l)e left entirely to 
themselves, as they feel alarm even in being looked 
at. Eggs for setting are generally ready in April. 
Period of incubation the same in the pheasant as in 
thecommon hen. Pjieasants, like the pea-fowl, will 
clear grounds of insects and reptiles, but will spoil 
all wall-trees within their reach, by pecking oft' 
everv bud and leaf. 

Strict cleanliness to be observed, the meat not 
to be tainted with dung, and the water to be pure 
and often renewed. Pood for grown pheasants, 
barley or wheat; generally the same as for other 
poultrj'. In a cold spi-ing, hemp seed, or other 
■warming seeds, are comfortable, and will forward 
the breeding stock. 

'Po manage young chickens. 

The chickens first hatched, are to be taken from 
the hen, lest she be tempted to leave her task un- 
finished. They may be secured in a basket of 
wool or soft hay, and kept in a moderate heat; if 
the weather be cold, near the fire. They will require 
no food for 24 hours, should it be necessary to 
keep them so long from the hen. The whole 
brood being hatched, place the hen under a coop 
abroad, upon a dry spot, and, if possible, not with- 
in reach of another hen, since the chickens will 
mix,- and the hens are apt to maim and destroy 
those which do not belong to them. Nor should 
they be placed near young fowls, which are likely 
to crush them, being always eager for their small 
meat. 

The first food should be split grits, afterwards 
tail wheat; all watery food, soaked bread, or pota- 
toes, being improper. Eggs boiled hard, or curd 
chopped small, is very suitable as first food. 
Their water should be pure, and often renewed, 
and there are pans made in such forms, that the 
chickens maj' drink without getting into the water, 
■which, by wetting their feet and feathers, numbs 
and injures them; a basin in the middle of a pan 
of water will answer the end; the water running 



round it. There is no necessity for cooping the 
the brood beyond two or three days; but they mar 
be confined as occasion requires, or suffered to 
range, as they are much benefited by the foraging 
of the hen. They should not be let out too early 
in the morning, whilst the dew lies upon the 
ground, nor be suffered to range over wet grass, 
wjiicli is a common and fatal cause of disease in 
fowls. Another caution requisite is to guard them 
against unfavourable changes of the weather, parti- 
cularly if rainy. Nearly all the diseases of fowls 
arise tVoni cold moisture. 

For the period of the chickens quilting the hen, 
there is no general rule: when slie begins to roost, 
if sufficiently forward, they will follow her; if 
otherwise, they should be secured in a proper 
place, till the time arrives when they are to asso- 
ciate with the other young poultry, since the larger 
are sure to overrun and drive from their food the 
younger broods. 

1 hatch cliickens in the Egyptian mode. 

The mamals or ovens of Egypt are scarcely above 
nine feet in height, but they have an extent in 
length and bi-ea<lth which renders them remarka- 
ble, and yet they are more so in their internal 
structure. The centre of the building is a vei'y 
narrow gallery, usually about the width of three 
feet, extending from one end of the building to the 
other, the height of which is from eight to nine 
feet; the structure for the most part of brick. The 
entrance into the oven is through the gallery, which 
commands the wiiole extent of it, and facilitates 
the several operations that are necessary to keep 
llie eggs to the proper degree of heat. The oven 
has a door, not \ery wide, and only as high as it 
is broad; this door, and many others in use in the 
mamals, are commonly no more than round holes. 

The gallery is a corridor; with this difference 
from our common corridors, which have only one 
row of rooms, whereas that of the mamal has al- 
ways two rows of them on both sides; namely, one 
on the ground floor, and another above. Every 
one upon the ground floor has one above, perfectly 
equal, both in length and breadth. The rooms ot' 
each row on the ground floor, are all equal, in 
length, breadth, and height. Reaumur observes, 
we know of no other rooms in the world, so iow 
as these, being only three feet in height. Their 
breadth, which is in the same direction with the 
length of the gallery, is four or five feet; they are 
very narrow in proportion to their length, which 
is 12 or 15 feet. 

Every one of these rooms has its door or ronnd 
aperture, about a foot and a half in diameter, open- 
ing into the gallery, the hole being wide enough 
for a man to creep through. All the eggs to be 
hatched are first ranged in these rooms. Four or 
five thousan<l eggs are put into each of them. These 
are the real ovens, so that the whole edifices, Avhich 
is denominated a chicken oven, is an assemblage 
of many ovens set together, side by side, opjiosile 
and over each other; and in the course of the pro- 
cess a part of the eggs are wanned in the upper 
rooms, after having been previously in the lower. 

P'oriy or fifty thousand eggs are hatched at once, 
or another extends the number to eighty thousand. 
The eggs are spread on mats, flocks or llax, in each 
room upon the ground floor, where they contract 
their first and general warmth, during a certain 
number of days. 

The heat of the air in the inferior rooms, and 
consequently that of the eggs, would rise to an ex- 
cessive degree, were the fire in the gutter inces- 
santly kept up. They keeii it up only an hour in 
the morning, and an hour at night, and they style 
these heatings the dinner and supper of the chick- 
ens; tlicv receive, however, two more meals, that 



RURAL AND DOxVlESTIC ECONOMY. 



359 



is, luncheon and afternoon meal, the fire being 
lighted four times a day. 

On the day on which they cease to light the 
fires, part of llie eggs of each inferior room are 
always conveyed into the room above. The eggs 
had been too much heaped in the former, and it is 
now time to extend and give them more room. 

The proper number of eggs from eacli inferior 
room having been removed into the room above, 
all the apertures of the rooms and of the gallery 
are closely and exactly stopped with bungs of tow, 
excepting, perhaps, half the apertures in the 
arches or ceilings of the upper rooms; which are 
left open in order to procure tliere a circulation of 
air. This precaution is sufficient to preserve in 
the ovens, for many days together, the temperature 
vhich has been obtained; wiuch indeed would be 
the case with ovens upon so considerable a scale in 
any country, more especially one so hot as Egypt. 
Three hundred and eighty-six ovens are kept in 
Egypt annually, during four or six months, allow- 
ing more time than is necessary to hatch eight suc- 
cessive broods of chickens, ducks, and turkeys, 
making on the whole yearly, tliree thousand and 
eighty-eight broods. The number in each hatch- 
ing is not always equal, from the occasional diffi- 
cultj' of obtaining a sufficient number of eggs, 
•wliich may be stated at a medium between the two 
extremes of forty and eighty thousand to each oven. 
The overseer contracts to return, in a living brood, 
to his employer, two-tiiirds of the number of eggs 
set in the ovens: all above being his own perquisite, 
in addition to his salary for the season, w.hich is from 
30 to 40 crowns, exclusive of his board. Accord- 
ing to report, the crop of poultry thus artificially 
raised in Egypt, was seldom, if ever, beloiv that 
ratio, making the enormous annual amount of nine- 
ty-two million six hundred and forty thousand. 

The chickens are not sold from the stove by tale, 
but by the bushel, or basket full! 

Excellent substitute for candles. 
Procure meadow-rushes, such as they tie the 
hop shoots to the poles with. Cut them when they 
have attained their full substance, hut are still 
green. The rush, at this age, consists of a body 
o( pith, with a green skin on it Cut oft' both ends 
of the rush, and leave the prime part, which, on au 
average, may be about a foot and a half long. Then 
take oft'all the green skin except for about a fifth part 
of the way round the pith. Thus it is a piece of 
i»ith all but a little strip of skin in one part all the 
w.av up, which is necessary to hold the pith to- 
gether. 

The rushes being thus prepared, the grease is 
melted, and put, in a melted state, into something 
that is as long as the rushes are. The rushes are 
put into the grease; soaked in it sufficiently; then 
taken out and laid in a bit of bark, taken from a 
young tree, so as not to be too large. This bark is 
£xed up against the wall by a couple of straps put 
round it; and there it hangs for the purpose of hold- 
ing tlie rushes. 

The rushes are carried about in the hand; but 
to sit by, to work by, or to go to bed by, they are 
fixed in stands made for the parpose, some of 
which are high, to stand on the ground, and some 
low, to stand on a, table. These stands have an 
iron part something like a pair of pliers to hold the 
rush in, and the rush is shifted foward from time 
to time, as it burns down to the thing that holds it. 

These rushes give a better light than a common 
small dip candle; and they cost next to nothing, 
though the labourer may, with tliem, have as much 
light as he pleases. 

To ailtivate mustard. 
A yard square of ground, sown with common 
mustard, the crop of which, ground for use in a 



little mustard-mill, as wanted, would save some 
money, and probably save life. The mustard 
would look brown, instead of yellow; but the for- 
mer colour is as good as the laUer; and, as to the 
taste, the real mustard has certaiidy a much better 
taste than that of the drugs and flour which go un- 
der the name of mustard. Let any one try it, and 
he will never use the drugs again. The di-ugs, if 
taken freely, leave a burning at the pit of the 
stomach, which the real mustard does not. 
'J'o cure herrin^rg^ pilc/inrds, mackerel, sprats, &c. 

Reservoirs of any size, vats, or casks, perfectly 
water-tight, should be about half filled with brine, 
made by dissolving about 28 parts cf solid salt in 
7'2 of fresh water. The fish, as fresh as possible, 
gutted or not, must be plunged into this fully-satu- 
rated brine in such quatuity as nearly to fill the 
reservoir; and, alter remaining quite immersed for 
five or six days, they will be fit to be packed as 
usual, with large grained solid salt, and exported 
to the hottest climates. As brine is always weak- 
est at the upper part, in order to keep it of a uni- 
form saturation, a wooden lattice-work frame, of 
such size as to be easily let into the inside of the 
reservoir, is sunk an inch or two under the surface 
of the brine, for the purpose of suspending upon it 
lumps of 1 or 2 pounds, or larger, of solid salt, 
which eft'ectually saturates whatever moisture may 
exude from the fish; and thus the brine will be 
continued of the utmost strength, so long as any 
part of the salt remains undissolved. The solid- 
ity of the lumps admits of their being applied 
several times, or whenever the reservoirs are re- 
plenished with fish; and the brine, although repeat- 
edly used, does not puti-ify; nor do the fish, if kept 
under the surface, ever become rancid. 

All provisions are best preserved b)' this method, 
especially bacon, which, when thus cured, is not 
so liable to become rusty, as when done by the 
usual method of rubbing with salt. 
Portable ice-house. 

Take an iron-bound butt, or puncheon, antl 
knock out the head; then cut a very small hole itt 
the bottom, about the size of a wine-cork. Place 
inside of it a wooden tub, shaped like a churn, 
resting it upon two pieces of wood, which are to 
raise it from touching the bottom. Fill the space 
round the inner tub with pounded charcoal; and fit 
to the tub a cover, with a convenient handle; hav- 
ing inside one or two small hooks, on which the 
bottles are to be hung, during the operation. Place 
on the lid a bag of pounded charcoal, about 2 feet 
square; and over all, place another cover, whicli 
must cover the head of the outer cask. 

When the apparatus is thus prepared, let it be 
placed in a cold cellar, and buried in the earth 
above four-fifths of its height; but, though cold, 
the cellar must be dry ; wet ground will not answer, 
and a sandy soil is the best. Fill the inner tub, or 
nearly so, with pounded ice; or, if prepared in 
winter, with snow well pressed down, and the ap- 
paratus will be complete. 

Whenever it is wished to make ices, take off the 
upper cover, then the sack or bag of pounded char- 
coal, and suspend the vessel containing the liquid 
to be frozen to the hooks inside of the inner cover; 
then close up the whole as before, for half an hour, 
when the operation will be complete, provided 
care be taken to exclude external air. 

To produce ice for culinary pirposes. 

Fill a gallon stone bottle witli hot spring water, 
leaving about a pint vacant, and put in 2 oz. of re- 
fined nitre; the bottle inust then be slopped very 
close, and let down into a deep well. After 3 or 
four hours it will be completely frozen; but the 
bottle must be broken to procure the ice. If the 
bottle is moved up and down, so as to be sometimes 



360 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



in and sometimes out of the water, the conseqtient 
evaporation will hasten the process. The heating 
of the water assists the subsequent congelation; 
and experience has proved, that hot water in win- 
ter will freeze more rapidly than cold water just 
drawn from a sprin!;:. 

'Vo make ice. 

The following is a simple and speedy method of 
congealing water: — 

Into a metal vase half filled with water, pour 
very gentlj' an equal quantity of ether, so that no 
nitxture may take place of the two liquids. Tlie 
Tase is placed under the receiver of an air-puni]), 
vhich is so fixed upon its support as to remain 
quite steady when the air is pumped out. 

At the first strokes of the piston, the ether he- 
comes in a state of ebullition; it is evaporated to- 
tally in less than a minute, and the water remains 
converted into ice. 

To procure ice from a poiuder. 

This is m-ade by pulverizing and drying the 
shivery fragments of porphyritic trap, which will 
sbsorb one-fifth of its own weight of water. Two 
quarts of it, spread in a large dish, will, in a few 
minutes, in an exhausted receiver, freeze half of 
three quarters of a pountl of water, in a cup of 
porous earthen ware. After each process its power 
will be restored by drying it before a fire, or in the 
6un; of course, ice may always be procured from 
it in hot climates. Experiments tried with oat- 
meal, have produced equal results. 

To char peats at the moss. 

Tlie best method of charring peats where they 
are dug, is — when the peats are properly dried, 
wheel to the outside of the moss a single horse cart 
load of them. Level a spot of gronn(l, about 7 feet 
in diameter, near to a di-ain, and drive a stake of 
■wood into the ground, about 5 feet long; roll some 
dry heather or pol (the refuse of flax), round the 
stake, and lay some also >ipon the ground where 
the peats are to be placed; then set llie ]ieats upon 
and all round the slake, inclining to the centre, 
vilh a little dry heather or jiol between each floor 
of peat, until near the top, or last course: then 
tliey are laid in a horizontal direction; and the 
stack when finished, is in the form of a bee-hive. 
The next operation is to set the stack ou fire, 
which is done at the bottom ah round; the fire will 
soon run up the post in the centre; and when the 
heatlier or pol is all consumed, the space forms a 
chimney, and occasions the stack to burn regularly. 
If the windward side should burn' too fast, ajiply 
some wet turf. When the j)eats are tliought to be 
sufficiently burnt, which is easily known from the 
appearance of the smoke, apply wet turf and wa- 
ter fi'om the adjoining drain as fast as possible, un- 
til the whole be extinguished: — the charcoal may 
be removed upon the following day. 

To char peats for fami'y use. 

When charcoal is required for cookery, or any 
other purpose in the family, take a dozen or fifteen 
peals, and put them upon the top of the kitchen 
lire, upon edge; they w ill soon draw up the coal 
fire, and become red in a short time. After being 
turned about once or twice, and done with smoking, 
they are charred, and may be removed to the stoves; 
if more char is wanted, put on another supply of 
peats. By following this plan, tlie kilclien fire is 
Itept up, and thus, with very little trouble, a sup. 
ply of the btst charred peat is obtained, perfecUj' 
free from smoke; and the vapour by no means so 
noxious as charcoal made from wood. Peats char- 
red in this way may be used in a chafer, in any 
room, or even in a nurseiy, without any danger 
arising from the vapour. It would also be found 
very fit for the warming of beds; and much better 



than live coals, which are, in general, used full of 
sulphur, and smell all over tlie bouse. 

Peats charred in a grate, !)nd aiiplied to the pur- 
pose of charcoal immediately, williout being ex- 
tiiigui«hed, make the ])urest and best char, and 
freest of smoke. When jieats are charred in a 
large quantity, and extinguished, any part of the 
peat that is not thoroughly burnt in the heart, will 
imbibe moisture; and, when used, will smoke, and 
have a disagreeable smell, which would at once 
hinder charred peat from being used in a gentle- 
man's family. 

To mahe a cheap fnef. 

Mix coal, cliarcoal, or saw-dust, one part, sand 
of an}!- kind, two parts, marl or clay, one part, in 
quantity as thought proper. Make the mass up 
wet, into l)alls of a convenient size; and when the 
fire is sufiicientlj- strong, place these balls, accord- 
ing to its size, a litth; above the top bar; and they 
will produce a heat consideralily more intense than 
common fuel; and insure a saving of %ne half the 
quantity of coals. A fire then made up, will re- 
(piire no stirring, and will need no fresii food for 
ten hours. 

To clean -water casks. 

Scour the inside well out with water and sand, 
and afterwai'ds, apply a quantity of charcoal dust; 
another and better method is, to rinse them with 
a pretty strong solution of oil of vitriol and waler, 
which will entirely deprive Ihem of tlieir foulness. 
To presenx eggs. . 

Apply with a l)rush a sohjtion of gum-arabic to 
the shells, or immerse the eggs therein, Jet them 
dry, and afterwards pack liiem in dry charcoal dust. 
This prevents their being aflected by any alleni- 
tions of temperature. 

Another method. 

IVIix together in a tub, or vessel, one bushel, 
Winchester measure, of quick lime, tbiriy-two 
ounces of salt, eight ounces of cream of tartar, 
with as much water as will reduce tlie compoKitioii 
to a sufficient' consistence to float an egg. Then 
put, and keep the eggs therein, which will pre- 
serve them perfectly sound for two years at least. 
Jl substitute for ndlk and cream. 

Beat up the whole of a fresh egg, in a basin, 
and then poor boiling tea over it gradually, to pre-* 
vent its curdling. It is difficult from the taste to 
distinguish the composition from rich cream. 
To cure huitcr. 

Take two parts of ibe best common sail, one 
part of sugar, and one (lart of sall-pLtre; beat theni 
U]) and blend the vvliole together. Take one ounce 
of this composition, for every sixttien ounces of 
butter, woik it well into the mass, and close it up 
for use. 

Butter cured this way, appears of a rich mar- 
rowy consistence, and fine colour, and never ac- 
quires a brittle hardness, nor tastes salt. It will 
likewise keep good three years, only observing, 
that it must stand three weeks or a month, before 
it is used. 
To remove the turnip flavour from milk and butter 

Dissolve a little nitre in spring waler, which 
keep in a bottle, and put a sm:ill lea-cupful into 
eight gallons of milk, when warm from the cow. 
'Jo make butter, Dumbarton method. 

First scald the chiiin wiili boiling water to en- 
sure cleanliness, tlien, having put in the cream, 
work it till the butter is separated from the milk, 
and put tlie former into a clean vessel. Next 
draw a corn sickle several times cross ways through 
it, for the purpose of extracting any hairs or su- 
perfluities which may adhere tu i't. Let the but- 
ter he put into spring water durin-g this operation; 
which will prevent its turning soft; and which will 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



301 



clear it likewise from any remn!\n-ts of milk. 
Next mix with every stone of butter, ten ounces 
of salt. Incorporate it well, otiierwise the bntter 
will not keep. In May and June, each stone of 
butter will take one ounce more of salt, but after 
the middle of August, one ounce less will suffice. 
When made, put it into a well-seasoned kit, and 
shake a handful of salt on the top, which will pre- 
serve it fi'om mouldiness. In this way continue 
to make and salt the butter, placinj; one make upon 
the other, until the kit is full. Observe that the 
kit does not leak, as the liquor oozing through 
■would occasion the butter to spoil. 

To make Cheshire cheese. 

It is necessary in making the best cheese to put 
in the new milk without skimming, and if any 
overnight's milk be mixed with it, it must be 
brought to the same natural warmth; into this put 
as much rennet as is just sufficient to come to the 
curd, and no more; for on this just proportion the 
mildness of the cheese is said to depend, a piece 
dried of the size of a worn sixpence, and put into 
a tea-cupful of water with a little salt, about twelve 
liours before it is wanted, is sufficient for 18 gal- 
lons of milk. The curd is next broken down, 
inid, when separated from the whey, is put into a 
cheese vat, and pressed very dry; it is next broken 
very small by squeezing it with the hands. New ' 
curd is mixed with about half its quantity of yes- 
terday's, and which has been kept for that purpose. 
When the curds have been thus mixed, well jjress- 
ed and closed with the hands in a cheese-vat, till 
-ney become one solid lump, it is put into a press 
for four or five hours, then taken out of the cheese- 
vat and turned, by means of a cloth put into the 
same for this purpose, and again put into the press 
for the night. It is then taken out, well salted, 
and j)ut into the press again till morning, when it 
is taken out and laid upon a flag or board till the 
salt is (juite melted, then it is wiped, put into a 
dry room, and turned every day, till it becomes 
dry enough for the market. 

To connect damaged grain. 

Put the injured article into an oven, from which 
the bread has been just drawn. Spread it in a bed, 
of from three to four inches in thickness, and stir 
it frequently with a shovel or rake, to facilitate the 
disengagement of the vapour. In ten or fifteen 
minutes, according to its humidity, withdraw it; 
when perfectly cool and aired, it will be restored 
to its wholesome qualities. 
1 Jlnotlier method. 

Musty grain, totally unfit for use, and which can 
scarcely be ground, may be rendered perfectly 
sweet and sound by simply immersing it in boiling 
water, and letting it remain till the water becomes 
cold. The quantity of water must be double that 
of the corn to be purified. The musty quality 
rarely penetrates through the husk of the wheat; 
and in the very worst cases, it does not extend 
through the amylaceous matter which lies imme- 
diately under the skin. In the hot water, all the 
decayed or rotten grains swim on the surface, so 
that the remaining wheat is effectually cleaned from 
all impurities, without any material loss. It is 
afterwards to be dried, stirring it occasionally on 
the kiln. 

To improve iiew seconds four of bad quality. 

Mix common carbonate of magnesia well, in 
proportions of from 20 to 40 grains to a pound of 
flour; calcined magnesia will improve the bread, 
but not nearly to the same extent as the carbonate. 
It will improve the colour of bread made fiom new 
seconds flour, while it impairs the colour of bread 
from fine old and new flour. 

To preserve four. 

Attach a number of lofts to every mill, so that 
2V 



the flour, in place of being thrust into sacks, the 
moment it escapes from the friction of the stones, 
may be taken up by the machinery, and spread out 
to cool in the most careful manner. The violent 
friction of the stones necessarily creates a great' 
heat and steam; and if flour is thrust into sacks in 
this state, a chenxical action will make it moist, 
soft, and clammy. 

To preserve wheat. 
Kiln diT it and put it in cubical cases of earthen- 
ware, glazed on the outside, and filled full as pos- 
sible; cover them by a piece of the same wave 
made to fit close, and securf^d wilh a mixtui-e of 
pitch, tar, and hemp cloth, till the whole be made 
air tight. A case of this kind might be made 
which would hold four bushels or a quarter of 
wheat. 

To correct moist four. 
In preparing the dougli, let one-third of the flour 
be kept uininixed, till the dough begins to rise, 
then add a little of the flour, and wlien it rises 
again, add a little more, and so on for four or five 
hours, till the whole of the floin- is used. In this 
manner the mixture, which occasions a glistening 
appearance in the dough, will be taken up, and the 
bread, as is already mentioned, will be highly im- 
proved. 

To remove fies from rooms. 

Take half a tea-spoonfid of black pepper, in 

powder, one tea-spoonful of brown sugar, and one 

table-spoonful of cream; mix them well together, 

and place them in the I'oom, on a [date w here the 

flies are troublesome, and they will soon disappear. 

To make excellent bread. 

Mix seven pounds of best flour, with three 

pounds of pared boiled potatoes. Steam oft" the 

water, and leave them a few minutes on the fire, 

mash them fine, and mix them whilst quite warm 

in the flour, with a spoonful or more of salt. Put 

a quart of water, milk warm, with three large 

spoonsful of yeast, gradually to the potatoes and 

flour. Work it well into a smooth dough, and let 

it remain four hours before it is baked. 

To make bread -with a very small quantity of yeast. 

Put one bushel of flour into the trough, mix 

three quarters of a pint of warm water, and one 

lea-spoonful of thick yeast well together; pour a 

small quantity in a hole made in the centre of the 

flour large enough to contain two gallons of water; 

then stir with a stick, about two feet long, some 

i of the flour, until it is as thick as pudding batter. 

I Strew some of the dry flour over it, and let it rest 

I for an hour, then pour about a quart more water, 

I and having stirred it as before, leave it for two 

I hours, and then add a gallon more of warm water. 

Stir in the flour again, and in about four hours 

more, mix up the dough, and cover it warm; iu 

about four hours more you may put it in the oven, 

and as light bread will be obtained as though a pint 

of yeast had been used. 

To prepare bread in the method of the London 
bakers. 
Sift a sack of flour into the kneading trougli; 
add six p lunds of salt, and two pounds of alum, 
dissolve them separate!)- in a paleful of water 
(cooled to 90 degrees Fahr. ) with two quarts of 
yeast. Stir it well, and strain it through a clotli 
or sieve; afterwards mix it with the flour into u 
dough, next cover it up with cloths and shut dowti 
the trough lid close to retain the heat. In two 
hours more^ mix in another pailful of warm water 
wilh the sponge, and again cover it up for two 
hours. After this knead it for more th:in an hour, 
with three pailsful of M-arm water. Return the 
dough to the trough, spriidvle it wilh dry flour, and 
in four hours' time, knead it well for about half 
an hour, when it will be fit to mould into loaves. 



3'62 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To pr'epare household bread. 

Mix four oiiaces of salt, three quai'ts of water, 
a |)int of yeast, and a peck of seconds flour, in a 
irougli; when properly fermented, knead and di- 
vide it into loaves. Sometimes a portion of rye- 
meal, rice, flour, or boiled potatoes, are mixed 
with the flour previous to the knea<liiig, the two 
former serve to hind the bread, the latter cause it 
to be o[)en and spongy. 

'£"0 produce one-tldrd more bread from a given 
quantity of corn. 

■Boil a bushel of the coarsest bran, in seven gal- 
lons of water for onC hour, keep stirring it, tiiat 
it may not slick to the bottom, tlien pour it off 
into a trough, or tub full of holes, over which lay 
a coarse cloth or sieve. On the lop of the whole 
put a wooden cover, with a weiglit sufliciently 
Iieavy to press out the liquor from the bran, which 
will sink to the bottom of the tub in a thick pulp. 
Tills liquor will contain the essential oil of the 
corn, and when knea<led iu with a proper propor- 
tion of flour, it will yield one-third more than the 
same quantity would, made with water in the usual 
■way. 

To make French bread. 

Put a pint of milk into three quarts of water. 
Ill winter let it be scalding hot, but, in summer, 
little more than milk-warm: put in salt suflicient. 
Take a pint and a half of good ale yeast, free from 
bitterness, and lay it in a gallon of water the night 
before. Pour off the yeast into tlie milk and water, 
and ihen break in rather more than a quarter of a 
pound of butter. Work it well till it is dissolved; 
then beat up two eggs in a basin, and stir them in. 
Mix about a [leck and half of flour with the liquor, 
and, in winter, make the dough pretty stiff, but 
more slack in summer; mix it well, and the less 
it is worked the better. Stir the liquor into flour, 
as for pie-crust, and after the dough is made, co- 
ver it with a cloth, and let it lie to rise, while the 
oven is heating. When the loaves have lain in a 
quick oven about a quarter of an hour, turn them 
on the other side for about a quarter of an hour 
longer. Then take them out, and chip them with 
a knife, which will make them look spong)', and 
of a fine yellow, whereas I'asping takes oft' this 
fine colour, and renders their look less inviting. 
To make -wholesome mixed bread. 

Take of rice 3 lbs.; boil it in a sufficient quan- 
tity of water till reduced to a soft pulp, then rub 
it with 6 lbs. of mealy potatoes, cooked by steam, 
and, when well blended, add 6 lbs. of flour; make 
the whole into a dough with water, and fermeut 
Avith yeast, in the usual manner. 

To fnake bran bread. 

To four pounds of best household flour, put two 
table-spoonsful of small beer yeast, and a half pint 
of warm water; let it stand two hours in a warm 
place. Add half a pound of bran, and a tea-spoon- 
ful of salt; make the dough with skim milk or 
■warm water; cover it up, and let it stand an hour. 
Put tlie loaves into warm dishes, and let them 
stand 20 minutes before they go into the oven. 
Another method. 

Mix with half a peck of flo'ur, containing the 
■whole of the bran, a quarter of a pint of small 
beeryeitst, and a quart of lukewarm water; stir it 
"well with a wooden spoon until it becomes a thick 
batter, then put a napkin over the dough, and set 
it about three feet from the fire, until it rises well. 
Add, if requisite, a little more warm water, strew 
over it a table-spoonful of salt, and make the whole 
into a stift" paste. Put it to llie fire, and when it 
rises, again knead it into tlie dough. If baked in 
tins, the loaves will be improved. 

To make leaven bread. 

Take ah;ut two pounds of dough of the last 



making, which has been raised by barm : keep it 
in a wooden vessel, covered well with flour. This 
will become leaven when sufficiently sour. Work 
this quantity into a peck of flour with warm water. 
Cover the dough close with a cloth, or flannel, and 
keep it in a warm place; further mix it next morn- 
in with two or three bushels of flour, mixed up 
with warm water and a little salt. When the 
dough is thoroughly made, cover it as before. As 
soon as it rises, knead it well into loaves. Ob- 
serve in this process, that the more leaven is put to 
the flour, the lighter the bread will be, and the 
fresher the leaven, the less sour it will taste. 

'I'o make four quartern loaves for family use. 

Procure a peck of flour, with whicli mix a hand- 
ful of salt to three quarts of water, and add half a 
pint of good fresh yeast. Work the whole well 
together, and set it to rise at a moderate distance 
from the fire, from two to three hours. Then di- 
vide it into four equal parts, put it into tins, and 
send it to the baker's. 

The London bakers, to give their flour a facti- 
tious whiteness, boil alum in the water; but such 
means will not be resorted to in any private fa- 
mily. 

To make cheap bread. 

Take pumpkins, and bnil them in water until it 
is quite thick, and, with the decoction mix flour so 
as to make dough. This makes an excellent 
bread. The proportion is increased at least one 
fouilli, and it keeps good a length of time. 
- ■.-'"" Another inethod. 

*" Birkenmayer, a brewer of (/Onstance, has suc- 
ceeded in manufacturing bread from the farina- 
ceous residue of beer. Ten pounds of this species 
of paste, one pound of 3'east, five pounds of ordi- 
nary meal, and a handful of salt, produce 12 pounds 
of black bread, both savoury and nourishing. 
To make bread of Iceland moss and four. 

This vegetable may be used alone, or with flour 
in the making of bread. Boil seven pounds of li- 
chen meal in 100 pints of water;- and afterwards 
mix the same with 69 lbs. of flour, and when bak- 
ed, the product will be 160 lbs. of gtiod house- 
hold bread. Whereas, without this addition, the 
flour would not produce more than 79 lbs. of bread. 
To prepare it, use 1 lb. of lichen meal in the form 
of paste, to about 3| lbs. of flour. 

To make bread on jyir CobbeVs plan. 

.Suppose the quantity be a bushel of flour. Put 
this flour into a trough that ])eople have for the 
purpose, or, it may be in a clean smooth tub of , 
any shape, if not too deep, and sufficiently large. 
Make a pretty deep hole in the middle of this heap 
of flour. Take (for a bushel) a pint of good fresli 
yeast, mix it and stir it well up in a pint of 
soft water milk-warm. Pour this into the hole in 
the heap of flour. Then take a spoon and work 
it I'ound the outside of this body of moisture, so 
as to bring into it by degrees flour enough to make 
it form a thin batter, which must be stirred about 
well for a minute or two. Then take a handful 
of flour and scatter it thinly o\er the head of this 
batter, so as to hide it. Then cover the whole 
over with a cloth to keep it warm; and this cover- 
ing, as well as the situation of the trough, as to 
distance from the fire, must depend on the nature 
of the place and state of the weather, as to heat 
and cold. When the batter has risen enough to 
make cracks in the flour, begin to form the whole 
mass into dough, thus: begin round the hole con- 
taining the batter, working the flour into the bat- 
ter, and pouring \n as it is wanted to make the 
flour mix with the batter, soft water, milk-warm, 
or milk. Before beginning this, scatter the salt 
over the heap, at the rate of half a pound to a bush- 
el of flour. When the whole is suflacieiilly moist. 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



;g3 



ftnead it well. This is a grand part of the busi- 
ness; for, unless the dough be well worlted, there 
•will lie little round lumps of flour in the loaves; 
ond besides, the original batter, which is to give 
fermentation to the whole, w'ill not be duly mixed. 
It must be rolled over, pressed out, folded up, and 
pressed out again, until it be completely mixed, 
and formed into a stiff and tough dough. 

When the dough is made, it is to be formed into 
* lump in the middle of the trough, and, witii a 
little dry flour thinly scattered over it, covered 
over again to be kept warm and to ferment; and 
in this state, if all be done rightly, it will not have 
to remain more than about 15 or 20 minutes. 

The OA-en sViould be hot by the time that the 
dough has remained in tlie lump about '20 minutes. 
AVhen both are read)', take out tlie fire and wipe 
the oven clean, and at nearly the same monif-Mit, 
take tlie dough out upon the lid of the baking 
trough, or some proper place, cut it up into pieces 
and make it up into loaves, kneading it again in 
ftliese separate parcels: shaking a little flour over 
the board, to ])revent the dough adhering to it. 
The loaves should be put into the oven as quickly 
■s possible after thev are formed; when in, the 
oven lid or door »lionld be fast'cned up veiy close- 
ly; and, if all be properly managed, loaves, of 
•bout tlte size of quartern loaves, will be sufficient- 
>y baked in about 2 hours. But they usually take 
down the lid, and look at the bread, in order to see 
how it is going on. 

To detect adulteration in bread. 

Run into the crumb of a loaf, one day old, the 
liladc of a knife considerably heated; and if adul- 
terated with alum, it will show its unwholesome 
adherences on the surface: and it may be further 
detected by the smell. Bone-dust or plaster of 
Paris may be discovered, by slicing the soft part 
of a loaf thin, and soaking it in a large quantity 
of water in an earthen vessel, placed over a slow 
fire three or four hours. Then having poured off 
the water and pap, the obnoxious matter will be 
found at tlie bottom. 

7'9 preserve houses from vermin. 

Bugs, in particular, may readily be destroyed by 
dissolving half a drachm of corrosive sublimate in 
a quarter of an ounce of spirit of salts, mixing it 
with one quart of spirit of turpentine. Shake 
these well together, ilip a brush in it, and wash 
those places where bugs are supposed to resort: 
•this will remove them to a greater certainty than 
any other mode oow practised. 



MANAGEMENT OF BEES. 

To ivork bees in glass Idves. 

To produce the finest virgin honey, without the 
cruel practice of destroying the bees, and having 
the opportunity ot" seeing them at their labours, a 
double-topped straw hive has been invented by Mr 
•lohn Molton, and is so constructed as to support 
ibur glasses; which may be removed with safety, 
and tiie bees kept warmer and more secure than 
in any other hives. 

Hive a swarm in the lower part of the hive in 
the usual way. The board at the top must be 
kept close bj' taking care to secure the openings; 
thk is done by turning the top board by means of a 
thumb screw, so that when first Uiv<;<l, the holes 
of both hoards shall not correspond, and by thus 
turning the upper board, it will prevent the bees 
from passing through, while hiving. At night, 
bring the hive into the bee house, or where it is 
intended to stand; in about two days afttr place on 
tlie glasses, (which should be clean) over their re- 
asective openings, and stop them round witli mor- 



tar: after which, turn the board to admit the bees 
to ascend for the purpose of working, cover the 
glasses with the small upper hive, and do not look 
at them for a few days. Indeed, nothing will then 
be necessaiy, but to ascertain when they are filled, 
which is known by the cell being sealed over, which 
may be expected in about 20 days after a swarm 
has been hived. 

When the honey is to be taken, and all the 
glasses removed, it will be requisite first to turn 
the board to exclude the bees; then with a thin 
knife loosen them from the adapter; leave them 
thus for about an hour; then carry the glasses in- 
verted a short distance from the hive into the slwde; 
or raise the glasses with a small wedge, and what 
few bees remain will readily leave and return to 
their original hive. This, if effected early in the 
season, will afford the opportunity of immediately 
replacing the same, or another set of glasses to be" 
again filled. 

Observe, if wanted at any time to take only 
one or two of the glasses with honey, do not turn 
the board; as by so doing the combs are disunited, 
and the bees themselves will then empty the re- 
maining glasses (although afterwards re-fill them, 
which might occasion a loss of time in the best 
part of the season for working); to simplify which, 
only loosen such glasses as are wished to be re- 
moved, with a thin knife, set them on a divider, 
and replace others in their stead. The middle of 
a fine day is the best time to remove glasses. 

It will not be advisable to take any honey from 
the hive after the end of July, as the remaining 
part of the season might not prove favourable to 
their gathering enough for their winter support; 
therefore, it will be necessary, about this time, or 
early in August, to remove ail the glasses and turn 
the board, to finally shut them up. 

Those glasses, only pxrtly filled with combs, 
should be carefully set aside, to be placed on again 
the following April; if, however, the stock will 
require leeding, leave one or more of the glasses 
with honey for that purpose, which is by far th^; 
best mode. 

Thus much for the swarm which is left till the 
following April — the time to commence again 
working the glasses, as hives are now full of combs 
and brood, should the season prove favourable, 
work the glasses twice or more, and equal success 
will attend every subsecjuent corresponding year; 
but the first season a swarm cannot be expected to 
fill the glasses more than once, which will produce 
8 pounds of the finest honey. — This method of 
management will not prevent the bees from swarm- 
ing. 

The honey thus obtained, being fresh from the 
hive, will be of the finest quality, pure, perfectly 
free from the young brood, of remarkably fine 
fiagrance, clear in coloui, and very far superior to 
any produced from common hives; it may also be 
taken at pleasure without injury to the bees — espe- 
cially without being obliged to resort at any time 
to the painful and execrable process of smothering 
these industrious and valuable insects. 
To work bees in stratv fdves. 

The double cottage straw hive will answer many 
purposes in the keeping of bees, as either a glass 
or a small straw hive may be worked on the top of 
it, which gives it an advantage over the common 
hive, although the method of management is sim- 
ple, and the price easy. 

Prepare this hive for a swarm by spreading mor- 
tar round the crown of it, to carry the adapter to 
support a glass or small straw hive, as it may be 
worked with either. Hive the swarm as usual, 
taking care to secure the opening at the top; after 
removing it to its appointed place, let the swan* 



364' 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



work for ten days; then clear the opening at top, 
and affix on either a 2;las3 or a small straw hive — 
the bees will then ascenil tor working. Stop the 
upper hive roun<l \vi;h mortar to the adapter, and 
<larken it with a common hive; in the course of 
from fifteen to twenty days examine it, and if full, 
take the honey as here directed: — pass a knife or 
wire between the adapter and small hive to sepa- 
rate the combs; after which remove the small hive 
of honey on a divider (a brass plate about twelve 
inches square); it will then be immediately neces- 
sary to place a small hive on the adapter, or slop 
the opening till another hive is to be worked. 
Carry the small hive now on the divider a short dis- 
tance away, or ratlier into a darkened room; invert 
it, and place over it a small empty hive of the same 
size; keep them steady, and, by tapping round 
the bottom hive, the bees, in a few minutes, will 
ascend to the hive above; carry them to within 
about two yards of their original stock, shake them 
out, and they will enter again as usual. 
Fo tvoi'k bees in a box lu've. 

This elegant box hive consists of three divisions, 
and is so ingeniously constructed, that the finest 
honey may be taken v/iihout destroying the bees; 
work a glass hive on the top, and inspect the whole 
of their curious and interesting labours without 
disturbing them. 

When a swarm is placed in this hive, shut the 
slider of the adapter; tie a small cord round to se- 
cure the parts; hive the swarm in the usual man- 
ner; at night bring it into the bee-house, or place 
appointed; open the entrance at bottom and remove 
the cord; if a glass hive is worked on the top, 
j)lace it on the same evening, stop it round, then 
{|raw back the slider to clear the gr.ite, leave it a 
favr minutes, and the bees will ascend for working. 
Then raise the two upper divisions to be able to 
remove the bottom diviiiion, and by the compres- 
sion the bees are obliged to work in the glass hive, 
which should be darkened with its proper cover, 
and left for a few days without being looked at; it 
■«'ill be necessary to replace the unerai)loyed divi- 
sion at the bottom four or five days previous to the 
removal of the glass of honey: in removing which 
shut the slider and leave it in this state for one 
hour; then follow those plain directions laid down 
for the removal of glass hives. 

If more honey is wanted from this hive than the 
glass affords, examine the divisions early in Sep- 
tember; if the three are full, viz. the two upper 
hives of honey and the bottom of combs; and not 
otherwise, proceed to remove the fillets of the top 
division, and pass the brass divider between those 
parts, where ic should I'eraain for an hour; then 
raise the division with a wedge, and draw back the 
slider of the adapter to let the bees out, and when 
clear, which will be in a few minutes, remove this 
division and place the auapter to the next division, 
and by withdrawing the divider it will fit close 
down; when the combs of honey are taken out 
from this division, it should be replaced at the bot- 
tom; consequently, every year, or once in two 
years, gives them, as it were, a fresh division, or 
part of a hive to rebuild in, which keeps the bees 
constantly at work, and the combs in a good state 
of preservation. 

To 7vork bees in a hexagon box Mve and straw 
/live. 

Tliis box hive is admirably constructed with sli- 
der and grating, having large glass windows, and 
supporting a glass hive on the lop, that, when well 
supplied with bees, it aftbrds the pleasing opportu- 
nity of viewing the progress of their labours, and 
exhibits a very inleresling and beautiful appear- 
ance. 



To hive a swarm, it is only necessary to shut the 
slider over the grating, and then proceed as before 
directed. (AVhen a glass hive is to be worked, fol- 
low the instructions given with the superior box 
hive.) This hive is tlie best calculated to work 
bees from other hives, especially when they are in 
a state of decay, particularly the common hive — it 
is eftected merely by withdrawing the slider clear 
of the grate, and placing the common hive over it 
in the evening, taking care to stop the entrance of 
the former with mortar. The bees will of course 
then enter at bottom, an<l when they have worked the 
bottom hive nearly full, which is ascertained by 
means of the windows, carefully lift them up, and 
place under tliem another hexagon hive; conse- 
quently, tliis colony consists of three hives, and it 
will not be safe to remove the up])er hive, iiidess 
tlie bees have worked combs into the bottom hive, 
which, if effected at the enii of the season, the 
common hive may be safely taken with its contents. 
To -work bees in the common hive. 

This hive being in such general use in lliis coun- 
try fur many years, requires but little observation, 
except on some essential points; which, to benefit 
the cultivator, ought to be attended to. First, care 
should be taken to have the hive made of clean' 
and good straw, and manufactured of a suitable 
thickness. Some hives are so thin and loose, as 
to require many days of tlie most valuable time of 
the swarm to render the hive fit for their use. 

Secondly, a hive should be chosen in proportion 
to the size of the swarm; and when a good hive is 
obtained, and a swarm placed in it, which should 
fill it to within a rim or two of the bottom, shel- 
ter it from cold winds and rain; for, if once the 
wet penetrates a hive, it affects tlie combs, and the 
bees, gelling a distaste for their liome, will work 
very slowly, and often desert it altogether; where- 
as, if they have a hive to their liking, leave thenrv 
unmolested, and they will soon furnish it with 
comlis and honey. It is net material in what as- 
])ect the slock st:uids, provided tlie sun sliines on 
the hive once in tlie course of the day. Well peo- 
pled hives, kept dry, will thrive in most situations. 

One of liiose fatal accidents to Vi-hicli this hive is 
subject, occurs, through covering it with a hackle or 
turf, by which iheir great enemy, the mouse, is 
enticed, who will make a nest on the top, and ulti- 
mately' eat its way through the crown of the hive, 
and destroy both combs and bees. 

About August the robbing commences by bees 
and wasps, which is but little regarded; an im- 
portant benefit will be derived by destroying the 
queen wasp, seen about April, which is the mo- 
ther of thousands; much therefore depends on the 
preservation of those hives which ate to stand the 
winter. To protect them, apply the guard invent- 
ed by Mr Espinasse, w Inch is calculated to prove 
highly beneficial in its effects. 

In September, attention should be directed to 
weigh the stocks; none of those of less than from 
15 to 20 lbs. in weight can safely be relied onto 
stand the winter, without feeding; and stop all 
hives down to the board witii mortar. 
To establish an apiary. 

The best time to establish an apiary is about 
February, as the stocks have passed tlu-ough the 
winter in safety — the combs are then empty of 
brood, light of honey, and the removal safe and 
.easy. Stocks should be selected by a competent 
judge, as the weight alone cannot alivays be re- 
lied on; but such as weigh 13 lbs. and n])wards — 
! the number of bees must also be observed, and 
that they are well combed to near the bottom — 
these may be safely chosen. 

When they are brought home, set them in the 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



365 



Tjee-house, being particularly careful to keep tliem 
dry. The next day, plaster tlie hive to the board, 
leavinp; an entrance the size of tlie little finger. 

If this season has passed, purchase the first and 
early swarms; for late ones or casts are not worth 
keeping, unless two or three have been united. 

To remove slocks, the evening is the best time; 
the hive should be raised by wedges some hours 
previous, unless the floor be also moveable with 
the hive — otherwise, many bees will remain on 
the floor at the time, and ])rove veiy troublesome. 
But wlien the door is moveable, plaster the hive 
with mortar to the board; pin a card pierced with 
holes before the entrance, securing the hive to the 
board firmly; in this way it would travel any dis- 
tance. 

Swarms purchased should be brought home the 
same evening; fur if delayed for a day or two, 
combs will be worked, and subject to be broken in 
removing. 

To cultivate bee-Jlo-wei's. 

Bees are most fond of those places whore their 
favourite flowers are to be found; therefore bee- 
keepers should encourage the growth of such 
shrubs and flowers as are known to supply honey 
aVid wax in the greatest abundance; ii> most situa- 
tions bees do not fly fur for food, generally not 
more than half a mile; they may be observed to 
return with great precipitation to tlie hive when 
rain era storm approaches. The following are the 
most favour:ible for pasturage, and tliose which 
blossom early are the most desirable: 

Shrubs, &c. Flowers. 

Sallow, or the gray wjl- Mignonette. 

low. Lemon thyme. 

Rosemary. Garden and wild thyme. 

Barberiy-tree, Borage. 

Gooseberry. Winter savory. 

Raspberry. Hyssop. 

Apricot and all other Mustard, "1 ^,,|,g„ 

fruit-trees. ^7''''l"- Meft for 

Lime-trees. ^iibbage. r^^^^ 

Furze. W liite clover. J 

Uroom. Scarlet and other beans 
Heath. when in bloom. 

Mignonette, borage, and lemon thyme are the 
principal, as they continue very long in bloom, and 
afford tht finest honey. Rosemary is also a great 
favoniile, but seldom supplies much honey in this 
counlr)-, unless the weather proves very hot and 
dry when it is in blossom, yet it is worth cultivat- 
ing, especially in a southern aspect, being one of 
tlie principal aromatic plants from which the bees 
in the neighbourhood of Narbonne collect their 
lioney, which is esteemed the finest in Europe. 
Fields of beans, white clover, and buck wheat, are 
of great benefit. Rivers or streams of water are 
Silso very beneficial, as bees make use of a great 
deal of water. 

To sxvarm bees. 

Swarming depends on the increase of bees, and 
a ([ueen being ready to lead them. Their breed- 
ing begins sooner or later, according to the for- 
wardness of the spring, the fruitfulness of the 
queen, and the populousness of the hive. When 
bees carr)' in farina or pellets on their tiiighs, it 
denotes they have commenced breeding, which 
may be as early as 1-ebruaiy, and not finish till 
October; and when .their numbers are much in- 
creased they show indications of swarming, by 
their clustering in great quantities below tlie rest- 
ing board. They never rise but on a fine day, and 
sometimes will settle, and for some cause return 
to the stock, probably for want of a queen being 
•,» ilh them. Some hives will cast three times, but 
Miostlv Quij- twice. Till! aecoud cast may be e.v- 



{ pected within three or four days, and never later 
j than ten (lays after the first. Should a stock over- 
swarm itself it will perish, unless strengthened; 
( this may be ascertained by observing the quantity 
of bees afterwards seen to enter. It is necessary 
in the swarming season, from April to July, paiti- 
culariv in May and .lune, to observe the hives on 
a fine day; in general the bees issue forth about 
noon — from 9 to 2 o'clock, oc about 3 in the after- 
noon. 

To hive bees. 

Bee keepers should have spare hives by them, 
prepared to hive the bees as soon as they are set- 
tled: for should the sun shine hot upon tlie swarm 
it may take another flight, and may poss'My be lost 
entirely. The manner of hiving them must be 
regulated by the nature of the place on which they 
settle, riie custom of preparing hives varies; a 
clean new hive only requires the loose straw to be 
rubbed off" with a cloth: if any dressing be used, 
fennel dipped in ale and sugar will best answer the 
purpose. Have ready a cloth whereon to place the 
hive, and a wedge to raise it: if the swarm should 
settle on a branch, shake the best part of it into 
the hive, place it on the cloth on^the ground, and 
continue to disturb the swarm where it settled, and 
the hive being left underneath, they will all go in; 
or cut the branch ofl, and gently place it in the 
hive. Should the bees settle on the ground, place 
the hive over them; and though bees are not apt to 
sting at this time, the hiving should be performed 
quietly. Avoid talking and breathing on them, 
and if any of them are crushed, they will resent 
it; therefore, to pi'event accident, invariably use 
the bee-dress, which will give confidence. All 
swarms are to be sheltered and left near to where 
they settle till the evening; thence to be removed 
vetry gentlj' to the appointed place. 

To tinite swarms, and reinforce stocks. 

It is essential when there are -wejk swarms of 
bees, that they should be strengthened. The ide<i, 
so prevalent, of the greatest number of hives pro- 
ducing the most honey and wax, is erroneous; for 
great part of the bees are necessarily employed in 
rearing the 3'oung, and therefore f.he number of 
those who are occupied in collecting honey is not 
near so great as has been imagined; for every 
awarm, the least as well 'as the greatest, is pro 
vided with a queen, equal in fecundity to the queen 
of the larger stock, and as the brood she brings 
continually demands the labour and attendance of 
nearly half the bees, this circumstance renders the 
other moiety, from the smallness of their number, 
unable to accumulate a large quantity of honey in 
the short time it mostly abounds, and therefore 
honev cannot be obtained in glass hives or others 
wise, but from a strongly-peopled hive. 

Hive the swarms or casts in the usual way, and 
at about 8 o'clock the same evening spread a cloth 
on the ground, near to the hive required to be re- 
inforced; bring the new swarm, and strike it down 
rather hard, flat on the ground. The bees will 
then fall in a cluster; quickly place over them the 
stock to be reinforced; in ten minutes they will 
have united and become as one family, to be remov- 
ed the same evening to its former situation. 

Or, each cast or swarm may be hived separately. . 
In the evening, turn the crown of the hive into a 
pail, and set the other hive exactly over it; in the 
morning, the bees from the bottom hive will have 
ascended. 

The system of ur.iting, so very important, is but 
little practised, and has been overlooked by many 
cultivators; but it is absolutely necessary to have 
the hives well peopled and completely sheltered 
from wet, which are the principal and main objects 
to bo iiarticularly attended to in the art of bee 

2 F^Z 



366 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



keeping; ami the advantages of uniting swarn^s 
will be found particularly beneficial in worlving 
the glasses with the newly invented double-topped 
hives. 

Tn feed bees. 

With the aid of feeding it is perfectly easy to 
bring any hive of bees thronglj ibe winter; but to 
ensure tite success of a veiy liglit stock, it is es- 
sential to keep it also very warm and dry. Feed- 
ing is absolutely necessai-y when more honey ho-j 
been taken than tlie hive can afford, by means of 
small hives or glasses. Such stocks as are intend- 
ed t9 be kept through the winter should weigh 20 
pounds or upwards, at the end of September; but 
casts and 'ate swarms seldom attain this weight, 
unless two or more should have been united. The 
composition for feeding consists of moist sugar and 
new beer, the proportion of one pound of sugar to 
a pint of beer, simmered to tlie consistency of 
treacle: to be inserted into the hives, by me;tns of 
small troughs, at night, and removed the next 
morning early. Should a hive be very poor and 
weak, it is better to feed in larger quantities each 
time. 

Another method. 

Have a thick wooden hoop about six inches deep, 
to set upon the board when the hive is taken \x\>, 
and set honey-combs, with the natural honey in 
them, or filled with sugar a little moistened, and 
set the hive upon it. A piece of an old hive will 
make a good hoop. Old empty combs should be 
carefully kept covered up with a piece of thin linen 
or muslin, in a very clean place for feeding the 
bees. Weak hives should be removed at a dis- 
tance from tiie west, when they nmst be fed; if 
near, the strong will rob them. Remove them in 
the following manner: — take up the board with 
the hive, tie a cloth firm over it, and with a hand- 
baiTow, caiTy it gently between two where it is in- 
tended to be placed. Troughs of |)itliy wood, fil- 
led with moistened sugar or honey, and thrust in 
at the aperture of the hive, is a good method of 
feeding. Be sure when raising a hive from the 
board, to fix it down again with plaster lime. 

Be not hasty in concluding a hive is dead though 
the bees seem inactive. Expose them at mid-day, 
turned upon a while sheet, where the sun is most 
powerful, for half an hour; then house tliem in a 
warm place, where neither noise, bad smells, nor 
light can annoy them. 

If wanted to purchase a hive, defer it till May. 
Set careful persons to watch at several stalls that 
they may reckon, by watch time, every loaded bee 
tliat comes in for 10 or 15 minutes. That whicli 
has most labourers should be tlie choice. All the 
refuse honey, after draining the best in jars, should 
be kept in a clean place for feeding the bees. 
Improved machine for feeding bees. 

Prepare a board a little lai-ger than the bottom 
of the hive, in the centre of which make an open- 
ing about 10 inches diameter; then form a frame 
of half inch deal, to consist of four sides, each 
about twelve inches by three inches; make the an- 
gles firm with small wooden blocks, to which affix 
the before-mentioned board. A door should then 
be made in a side of the frame, sufficiently large 
to admit a deep plate, or small dish, to contain the 
food. By the use of this machine, the bee3 are 
fed quietly, and protected from the cold v*eather 
and the intrusion of other bees. It is scarcely ne- 
cessary to observe further, that the door of the 
machine should face such part of the bee-house as 
best suits convenience. The disii of food to be 
placed under should be covered with a piece of 
lliick paper the size of the plate or dish, pierced 
in holes, through which the bees will feed; and a 
ouantity of short pieces of sti'aw also put into 



the dish will prevent the bees from daubing them- 
selves. They should be fed at night, and tlie dish, 
only taken away early on the following morning; 
to do this, the face and hands should be covered. 
The autumn and early part of the spiing are times 
proper to examine if any hives require feeding; 
but always commence before the stock is in abso- 
lute want of food, otherwise the bees will be so 
poor and weak as to be unable to come down. 
7'o manage honey. 

To judge of the best honey, it should be of a 
bright pale colour, thick, and a little aromatic. 
To obtain it from the combs in its pure state, it 
must be left to run from ihem without pressing. 
The colour shows wivether it is fine or inferior. 
If wanted to press some in the comb, choose the 
fairest and such as have not been broken: wrap 
each comb in white paper, such as lines the blue 
cover of loaf sugar. Set it edgeways as it stood 
in the hive, and it may be preserved many months. 
The combs meant to be drained, must be cut ia 
slices. Lay them on a hair-seai-ch, supported by 
a rack over the j-ar, in which the honey is to remain; 
for the less it is stirred after draining, it keeps the 
better. Fill the jar to the brim, as a little scum 
must be taken oft" when it has settled. A bladder, 
well washed in lukewarm water, ought to be laid 
over the double fold of white paper with which it 
is covered. 

7'o take the honey tvilhout destroymg the bees. 

The following easy method of taking the honev 
without destroying the bees, is generally practised 
in France. In the dusk of the evening, wheu the 
bees are quietly lodged, approach the hive, ami 
turn it gently over. Having steadily placed it in 
a small pit, previously dug to receive it, with its 
bottom upwards, cover it with a clean new hive, 
which has been proi)erly pre])ared, with a few 
sticks across the inside of it, and rubbed with aro- 
matic herbs. Having carefully adjusted the mouth 
of each hive to the other, so that no aperture re- 
mains between them, take a small stick, and beat 
gently round the sides of the lower hive fur about 
ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, in which 
time the bees will leave their cells in the lower 
hive, ascend, and adhere to the upper one. Then 
gently lift the new hive, with all its little tenants, 
and place it on the stand froni which the other 
hive was taken. This should be doae some time 
in the week preceding midsummer day, tliat tluj 
bees may have time, before the summer flowers 
are laded, to lay in a new stock of honey, whicli 
they will not fail to do for their subsisteaee throug.U 
winter. 

To manage bees generally. 

The best situation for bees is to the north, with 
a range of hills wooded on the summit, and toward 
the base, enriched with heather, skirted to the 
east with a stream from the rocks. To confine 
this rivulet, the bee-master should sow the sandy 
beech with the seed of furze, and cover it with a 
light surface of earth. The furze would soon 
vegetate; and blooming, in the course of three 
years, overpay his labour, by providing the bees 
with pasture on soil otherwise barren, and the mar- 
gin of the brook would gradually rise to restrain 
its encroachment on fertile lands. Suppose a white 
clover field to the south of the hills, and south 
from the field a large garden, wtiere hardy winter 
greens have been allowed to flower, as early fooj 
for the bees. White mustard should also be sown 
very early in patches near the hivef but not nearer 
than one yard. A few dwarf flowers niiay come 
within two feet, but tall grown ones would assist 
insects to get up. To the west, it would be de- 
sirable to have a shrubber)', a wood, a brooiny 
common, or Leather moor. 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



367 



The stations for the hives must be six yards 
asunder, and never nearer than three yards. ' The 
board on which they are placed ought to be of one 
jiiece; or, if joined, the under side of tI^e joining 
shouM be lined with a thinner board fixed closelv 
vith wooden pins. The edges of iljis rounded 
standard should project four inches all round from 
the hive. Place it on three wooden pi llai-s sixteen 
inches loi>g, ten Inches above the ground, but six 
inches of its length should be firmly thrust into 
the earl. I, in ftll its length to be sixteen inches. 
The pillar in front should l>e an inch shorter than 
the other two, and the three pillars should be with- 
in twelve or fourteen inches of the outer edge of 
the board, to exclude rats and mice. For the same 
reason no tall-gi-owing plant, no wall, nor any 
means for ascent should be wilhMi thre^ or four 
feet of tlie hive. In fine weather, the entrance to 
the hive must be four inches long, ami an inch and 
a half in depth. 

In the beginning of the fine season, when tl>e 
bees can get food, or have stores remaining, the 
bee-master has nnlhing to do but to keep the 
ground about the hives clear from weeds, and from 
wiialever might enable vern>in to climb there. 
Yet as a thriving stock inclines veiy soon to swarm, 
the hives must be tVequently looked after, from 
eight in the morning till five in the afternoon. 
The symptoms are generally thus: The little citj- 
seems crowded with inhabitants ^I'hey are con- 
tinually ill motion during the day; and after work- 
ing-time, they make loud noises. The drones mav 
be seen flying about in the heat of the day, and the 
■working bees go with a reeling motion and busy 
hum. When the bees come I'egularJy out of the 
hives, let no noise, no inteiTuption incommode 
them: but if they fly long, as if they were unset- 
tled, some tinkling noise or the loud report of a 
gun, will make the fugitives repair to the nearest, 
lodgings. If there is an empty hive witli combs 
and some honey in it, they will readily go there. 
If a new hive is used, remember to smooth it well 
within, and singe off loose straws. Perpendicu- 
lar slicks should never be employed. Four eross 
sticks at equal distances will support the combs. 
Obi hives do very well for late swarms that are 
not to be preserved through the winter; but box 
Jiives are best for them, as the bees work fastest 
th^i-e. They are not, however, fit for being kept 
through the cold seasons. 

It is to be observed that great haste in forcing a 
swarm into the hive may disperse them. Give 
them time to settle undisturbed, though keep a 
steady eye on their motions: but whenever they 
gather into a cluster, lose no time in placing the 
hive over them. If the swarm rest on any thing 
that can be brought to the groimd, spread a clean 
linen cloth: lay two sticks on it, two feet asunder; 
lay the body, on which the swarm have fixed, gent- 
ly on the sticks; covering it with the hive by a 
motion the least ])erceptible; and taking care that 
the edges of the hive rest upon the sticks. Cover 
hive and all with a cloth; for the sun might allure 
the bees to rise again. When they have gone into 
the hive, cover it with its own board, and carry it 
cautiously to its station, liees are apt to leave 
their hive even after they begin to work, so they 
must be watched till evening, and throughout the 
ensuing da)\ VVhenever they are sore to remain, 
fix the hive to its board with a little lime round 
the edges; and crown it with green sods to keep 
out too great heat or rain. 

If a liive divides into two swarms, it is a sign 
that each swarm has a queen. Put eacli into old 
hives or boxes; but they must be kept separate. 
If a cluster of bees about the size of a small plum 
are seen together, the ijueen will generally be found 



there. Separate thera, and with a drinking glass 
turned down, you may seize the queen. Put'her, 
and a score orjwo of her subjects into a box Mt 
of holes, Jarge enough to admit air, and yet not to 
allow tlie bees to escape. Feed her with honey 
combs, ami keep her in reserve in case of the 
death of a queen in one of the hives. When a 
hive ceases to work, it is a sure sign the queen i» 
no more. Tl>en the bee-master may wait an hour 
and ix)t see a loaded bee enter the habitation. But 
if the s]>are queen be taken late in the evening, 
wetting her wiiigs to j>revent her escape, and in- 
troduce her to the desi>ondLng society, they will 
receive her gladly, and begin to wo?k. 

If a hive fights among them.selves, be assured 
there are two (jueens: and they w ill destroy each 
other, if oi>e is not taken away' to keep. 

Wlien bees are to swarm a second, or more 
times, they do not come out in clusters: 'but thev 
n>ake a sound calletl beltings, which may be heard"; 
ceasing for a little, and renewed again and again. 
If there are difterent tones, it is certain, there are 
several young (jueens in tte hive. It is oniv by 
putting the ear close to it, that the sound can be 
heanl distinctly. 

'J'o keep large hives- for -minter. 

They must not be more than three years old, 
and well stocked with bees. A hive forpreservin^ 
should weigh from thirty to forty pounds. Place 
them in October where they are to remaiti, observ- 
ing the usual precautions against vermin, or windis; 
and giving them if possible a distance of six or 
eight yards asunder, that they may not rob each 
otber. Set the hive after sun-set. Plaster the 
edije firmly round with plaster lime, all except 
the entrance. Fit a piece of hard wood to tlia 
ai)erture; cut two holes a quarter of an iiicTi squaie, 
and fix the board as a door with plaster lime. 
Cover the hive with drawn straw tied together at 
the top; and fix it with straw ropes around. Cut 
the straw a quarter of an inch lH.'row the boai-d, 
for a few lengths may conduct vermin into tlie tor- 
pid comniunily. Once in four or five weeks raise 
the hive from the board after sun-set. Scrape tiiu 
board clean, and Uusli away dead be«s. Observe 
when turning thera up if they move their wings; 
if not, bring them into a warmer situation, free frotii 
noise, and the light excluded. Keep tbeni there 
till the extreme rigour of the season is past, anit 
then return them to their old situation after sun- 
set. 

Sunshine in snow is destructive to bees if they 
get out. Put a platting of twigs across the holes 
to give air, and yet confine the inmates. Never 
confine them. more than eight or ten days, and ex» 
cept in snow in the sunshine, their own sagacity 
will direct when it is safe to go out. It is abso- 
lutely necessary for their hejilth, to liave leave for 
going in and out in tolerably mild weather, 
i'o manage Ixe-luves uf Mr J/wrley's canstruction. 

The bottom pait is an octangular bee box, made 
of deal boards, about an nich in thickness, the 
cover of which is externally 17 inches in diameter, 
but internally oidy 15 inciies, and its height 10. 
In the middle of the cover of this octangular box 
is a hole, which may be opened or shut at pleasure 
by means of a slider. In one of llie paniiels is a 
pane of glass, covered with a wooden door. The 
entrance at the bottom of the box is about three 
and a half inches broad, and half an inch high. 
I'wo slips of deal, about Ivalf an inch smiare cross 
each other in the centre of the box, and are fasten- 
ed to the pannel by means of small screws: to 
these slips the bees fasten their combs. In this 
octanguh. box, the bees are hived, after swarming 
in the usual manner, and then suffered to continue 
till tliey have built their combs, and tilled tlictu 



308 



UNIVERSAL llECEIl'T BOOK, 



•with honey; which mar be known hr opening the 
door, and viewing tlii-ir works through the ghiss 
])ane, or by tlie weight of the hive. Wheii^ tlie 
bee-master finds his laborious insects have filled 
their habitation, he is to place a common bee-hive 
of straw, made either flat on the top, or in the 
common form, on the octangular box, and drawing 
out the slider, a communication will be opened 
between the box and tlie straw hive; in consequence 
of which the bees will fill this hive also with the 
product of their labours. 

When the stra»v-hive is well filled, the slider 
raavbe pushed in, and the hive taken away, and 
another placed in its room, with the slider drawn 
out This new hive will also be filled in the same 
manner. 

Mr Thorley assured the Society of Arts, that 
he had taken three successive hives, filled with 
honey and wax, from a single hive during the same 
summer; and tliat the food still remaining in the 
octant>-ular box, was sullicient for the supiinrt of 
the bees during the winter. He savs, that if this 
method was pursued in every part of the kingdom, 
instead of the cruel method of destroying these 
useful insects, lie is persuaded, from lung experi- 
ence, that wax would be collected in such plenty, 
that candles made with it might be sold as cheap 
as those of tallow are sold at present. 

Mr Thorley has also added anotlier part to his 
bce-iiive, consisting of a glass reservoir, 18 inches 
iiin-h, 8 inches in diameter at the bottom, and in 
the gVeatest part 13; this receiver has a hole at tlie 
top,°about one inch in diameter, through which a 
square piece of deal is extended nearly to the bot- 
tom of the vessel, having two cross bars, to which 
tlie bees fosten their combs. Into the other end 
of tliis square piece is screwed a piece of brass, 
which serves as a handle to the receiver or glass 
hive. When the bees have filled their straw hive, 
which must have a hole in the centre, covered with 
a piece of tin, Mr Thorley places the glass re- 
ceiver upon the top of t!ie straw hive, and draws 
out the piece of tin. The bees, now finding their 
habitation enlarged, pursue their labours with suL-h 
alacrity, that they fill their glass hive likewise with 
their stores, the whole progress of their works. 
It will, however, be necessary to cover the glass 
with an empty hive of straw, or at least with a 
cloth, lest too much light preven.t their working. 
In this way Mr Tliorley, in a good season, has had 
a glass hive filled in thirty days, containing 38 
pounds of fine honey. AVIien the glass is com- 
pletely filled, slide a tin plate between the hive or 
box, so as to cover the passage, and in half an hour 
the glass may be taken away with safety. The 
few "bees that'remain will readily go to their com- 
panions. 

Mr Thorley has added a glass window to his 
straw hives, in order to observe tlie progress of the 
bees; and this contrivance is useful, especially if 
one hive is to be removed whilst the season con- 
tinues tavourable for their collecting of honey; for, 
when the combs are filled w ith honey, the cells are 
sealed up, and the bees forsake them, and reside 
mostly in the hives in which their works are chiefiy 
carried on. Observing also, that the bees were 
apt to extend their combs through the passage of 
communication into the upper hive, which render- 
ed it necessary to divide the comb, when the up- 
per hive was taken away, he puts in the passage a 
wire screen for netting, the meshes of which are 
large enough for a loaded bee to pass easily through 
Ihem; and thus he prevents the junction of the 



combs from one box to the other, and consequently 
obviates the necessity of cutting them, and of 
spilling some honey, which running down among 
a crowd of bees, incommoded them much. 
'J'o manage bees on J\Ir CobbeWs plan. 
The best hives are those made of clean, unblight- 
ed rye-straw. A swarm should always be put into 
a new hive, and the sticks sliould be new that are 
put into the hive for the bees to work on; for, if 
the hive be old, it is not so wholesome; and a thou- 
sand to one but it contains the embryos of moths 
and other insects injurious to bees. Over the hive 
itself there should be a cap of thatch, made also 
of clean rye-straw; and it should not only be new 
when first jiut on the hive, but a new one should be 
made to sup[ily the place of the former one every 
three or four months; for, when the straw begins 
to get rotten, as it soon does, insects breed in it, 
its sinell is bad, and its effect on the bees is dan- 
gerous. 

Tlie hives should be placed on a bench, the legs 
of which mice and rats cannot creep up. Tin 
round the legs is best. But even this will not keep 
down aiits, which are mortal enemies of bees. To 
heep them away, if they infest tiie hive, take a 
sateen slick aiui twist it round in the shape of a 
ring, to lay on the ground, round the leg of the 
.bench, and at a few inches from it; and cover tills 
slick .with tar. This will keep away the ants. 

iSesides the hive and its cap, there should be a 
sort of shed, with top, back, and ends, to give ad- 
ditional [U'otection in winter; though, in summer, 
hives may be kept too hot, and, in that case, the 
bees become sickly, and the produce light. The 
situation of the hive is to face the south-east; or, 
at any rate, to be sheltered from the north and iha 
west. From the north always, and from the west 
in winter. If it be a very dry season in summer, 
it conlribntes greatly to the success of the bees, td 
])lace clear water near their home, in a thing that 
lliey can conveniently drink out of; for, if they 
liave to go a great way for drink, they have not 
much time for work. 

It is supposed, tiiat bees live only a year; at any 
rate, it is best never to keep the same stall, op 
famil)', over two years, except it be wanted to in- 
crease tlie number of hives. The swarm of this 
summer sliould be always taken iu the autumn of 
the next year. It is whimsical to save the bees 
when the honey is taken. They must be fed; 
and, if saved, they will die of old age before the 
next fall; and though young ones will supply the 
place of the dead, this is nothing like a good 
swarm put up during the summer. 

A good stall of bees, that is to say, the produce 
of one, is always worth about two bushels of good 
wheat. The cost is nothing to the labourer. He 
must be a stupid countryman indeed, who cannot 
make a bee-hive; and a lazy one indeed, if he will 
not if he can. In short, there is nothing but care 
demanded; and there are very few situations in 
the country, especially in the south of England, 
where a labouring man may not have half a dozen 
stalls of bees to take every year. The main things 
are to keep away insects, mice, and birds, and es- 
pecially a little bird called the bee-bird; and to 
keep all clean and fresh as to the hives and cover- 
ings. Never put a sw.arm into an old hive. If 
wasps, or hornets, annoy you, watch them home 
in tlie day time; and, in the night, kill them by 
fire, or by boiling water. Fowls should not go 
where bees 5re, for they eat them. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



369 



POTTERIT. 



To manufacture English stone ware. 
Tobacco-pipe clay from Dorsetsliire, is beaten 
much in water: by this process, the finer parts of 
the clay remain suspended in the water, while the 
coarser sand and other impurities fall to the bot- 
tom. The thick liquid, consisting of water and 
the finer parts of the clay, is further purified by 
passing it through hair and lawn sieves of diffei-ent 
degrees of fineness. After this, the liquor is mix- 
ed (in various proportions for various ware) with 
another liquor of the same density, and consisting 
of flints calcined, ground, and suspended in water. 
The mixture is then dried in a kiln; and being af- 
terwards beaten to a proper temper, it becomes fit 
for being formed at the wheel into dishes, plates, 
howls, &ic. When tliis ware is to be put into the 
furnace to be baked, the several pieces of it are 
placed in the cases made of cla)', called seggars, 
which are piled one upon another, in the dome of 
the furnace: % fire is tlien lighted; when the ware 
is brought to a proper temper, which happens 
in about 48 hours, it is glazed by common salt. 
The salt is thrown into the furnace, through 
holes in the upper part of it, by the heat of which 
it is instantly converted into a thick vapour; which, 
cii-culating through the furnace, enters the seggar 
through holes made in its side (the top being co- 
vered to prevent tlie salt from falling on the ware), 
and attaching itself to the surface of the ware, it 
forms that vitreous coat upon the surface, which is 
called its glaze. 

To make yellow or queen's ware. 
This is made of tlie same materials as the flint 
•ware; but the proportion in which the materials 
are mixed is not the same, nor is the ware glazed 
in the same way. The flint ware is generally made 
of 4 measures of liquid flint, and 18 of liquid clay; 
the yellow ware has a greater proportion of clay in 
it; in some manufactories they mix 20, and in 
others 24 measures of clay with 4 of flint. The 
proportion for both sorts of ware depends very 
much upon the nature of the cLiy, which is very 
variable even in the same pit. Hence a previous 
trial must be made of the quality of the clay, by 
burning a kiln of the ware. If there he too nmch 
flint mixed with the claj', the ware, when exposed 
to the air after burning, is apt to crack; and if there 
be too little, the ware will not receive the proper 
glaze from the circulation of the salt vapour. 

To manufacture English porcelain. 
The iron-stone, which contains a portion of argil 
anil silex, is first roasted in a common biscuit kiln, 
to facilitate its trituration, and to expel sulphur and 
other volatile ingr^editnts which it may contain. 
A large earthen crucible is constructed after the 
exact model of an iron forge, a part of the bottom 
wf which is filled with charcoal or cokes : these, 
having been previously strewed witli ore, and about 
one-third part of lime, are laised to an intense heat 
by a strong blast of air, introduceil under the cokes 
at the bottom. 13y this heat the ore is fused, and 
the fluid iron drops through the fuel to the bottom; 
then follows the scoria, w'hich floats upon the top 
of the fluid iron. This latter scoria, or, as the 
■workmen call it, slag, is the material used in the 
manufacture of ihe china, and is much impregnat- 
ed with i'on, and (jf a compact and dense struc- 
ture. The slag is next let olf, by a hole through 
Uie forge, into a clean eartlieu vessel, where it 

2W 



cools. This last vessel is then broken, in order to 
detach the slag from it, with hammers. The sco- 
ria is next pounded into small pieces and ground in 
water, to the consistence of a fine paste, at the 
flint mills of the country. This paste is then eva- 
porated to dryness, on a slip kiln, well known 
amongst potters. I'hus evaporated to diyness, it 
is used with the other ingredients in the following 
proportions, viz. 

Prepared iron stone, 3 cwt. — ground flint, 4 cwt. 
— ground Cornwall stone, 4 cwl. — Cornwall clay, 
4 cwt. — blue oxide of cobalt, 1 pound. 

These having been mixed together with water 
by the slip-maker, are again evaporated, en th» 
slip kiln to the proper consistency for use. The 
clay, thus prepared, is ot course used in the usual 
manner in the fabrication of tlie several kinds of 
vessels. 

Black glazing. 

Take 8 parts of red lead, .3 parts of iron filings, 
3 parts of calcined copper, and 2 parts of zaffre. 
This, when fused, will product! a brown black; 
but if wanted a truer black colour, the proportion 
of zaff're must be increased. 

7'o make porcelain or china. 

Porcelain, or china, is a semi-vitrified earthen 
ware, of an intermediate nature between commor. 
ware and glass. Chinese porcelain is composed 
of two ingredients, one of which is a hard stone, ' 
called petunse, which is carefully ground to a very 
fine powder; and the other, called kaolin, is a 
white earthy substance, which is intimately mi.ted 
with the ground stone. The former is of the sili- 
ceous, and the latter of the aluminous genus. 

Several compositions of mingled earth may /ield 
a true porcelain, by being burnt; and the porce- 
lains of various countries dift'er in their mixtures. 
But the principal basis of any true^ porcelain is 
that kind of clay which becomes white by baking, 
and which, either by intermingled heterogeneous 
earth, or by particular additions, undergoes in the 
fire an incipient vitrification, in which the true na- 
ture of porcelain consists. Feldspar and gj'psura, 
if added, may give that property to infusible clay. 

When porcelain is to be made, the clay is pro- 
perly selected, carefully washed from impurities, 
and again dried. It is then finely sifted, and most 
accuratel)' mingled with quartz, ground very fine; 
to which, then, is added some burnt and finely pul- 
verized gypsum. This mass is worked with wa- 
ter to a paste, and duly kneaded; it is usually suf- 
fered to lie in this state for years. The vesselsand 
other goods formed of this mass are first mode- 
rately burnt in earthen pots, to receive a certain 
degree of compactness, and to be ready for glaz- 
ing. The glazing consists of an easily melted 
mixture of some species of earths, as the petro- 
silex or chert, fragments of porcelain and gj'psum, 
which, when fused together, produce a ci-yslalline, 
or vitreous mass, which, after cooling, is very fine- 
ly ground, and suspended in a sufticient quantity of 
watei'. Into this fluid the rough ware is dipped, 
by which the glazing matter is deposited uniform- 
ly on every part of its surface. After drying, 
each article is thoroughly baked or burned in the 
violent heat of the porcelain furnace. It is u;ual 
to decorate porcelain by paintings, for which pur- 
pose enamels or pastes, coloured by metallic ox- 
ides, are used, so easy of fusion as to run in a heat 



370 



UNIVEllSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



less intense than that in which the glazing of the 
•ware melts. 

To make delft-ivare. 

This is a kind of pottery made of sand and clay, 
and but slightly baked, so that it resists sudden 
applications of heat. Articles made of this are 
glazed with an enamel, composed of common salt, 
Band ground fine, oxide of lead, and oxide of tin. 
The use of the latter is to give opacity to the glaze. 
To make cldna -ware. 

The composition of the eastern or proper china- 
vare, according to accounts that have great marks 
of authenticity, is from two earths; one of which 
is, as was before mentioned, vitrescent, and is 
called petunse: the other a refractory, or a pyrous 
earth, and called kaolin. 

The preparation of the petunse, or aluminous 
?arth, is by pounding the stone till it is reduced to 
a very fine powder, and then washing it over to 
bring it to the most impalpable state, which is thus 
performed: After the stone is rendered as.fine as it 
can be by pounding or grinding, the powder must 
be put into a large tub full of water, and, being 
stirred about, the upper part of the water must be 
laded out into anotiier tub, by wiiich means the 
finest particles of the powder will be carried into 
it. The water in the second tub must be then suf- 
fered to stand at rest till tlie powder be subsided, 
and as much as can be laded otf clear must be put 
back into the first tub, and there being again stir- 
red about, and loaded with a fresh quantity of the 
most subtle part of the powder, must be laded 
again into the second tub as before, and this must 
be repeated till none be left in the first tub but the 
grosser part of the stone; whicii, not being of a 
due fineness, must be again pounded, and treated 
as at first. The fine powder obtained in the se- 
cond tub, must be then freed from the water, by 
lading off the clear part, and suffering what re- 
mains to exhale, till the matter become of the con- 
sistence of soft clay, when it will be fit to be com- 
mixed with the kaolin for use. 

The kaolin, or mica, is prepared in the same 
manner byv washing over, but some specimens are 
so fine, that there is no occasion for tliis or any 
Other purification. 

From these two mixed together, the clay or paste 
IS formed; but it is said, that the proportion of the 
respective quantities is made to vary according to 
the intended goodness of the ware, the best being 
made from equal quantities, and the worst from 
two of the kaolin to one of the petunse. 

To make Saxon or Dresden china. 

The Saxon composition, of which the china- 
vare is formed, is greatly similar to that of the 
eastern. In the place of the petunse, a stone is 
used, which is improperly called in the German 
language, bleyspatt, or spar of lead. It is a stone 
of a very contrary nature, as spars are calcareous, 
and will, on calcining, become lime ; on the other 
hand, this stone is of a vitreous nature, though it 
is said no fire will fuse it without some mixture. 
This spar is of a very hard texture, and of a liglit 
flesh colour, or pale whitish red. It is prei)ared 
by pounding and washing over, which may be done 
as above-directed, and it is then ready for com- 
pounding with the mica. The mica is employed 
in the Saxon composition for the other ingredients: 
and is likewise prepared by grinding and washing 
over, when it is not in a perfect and pure state; but 
vhen it is entirely clean, it maybe tempered with 
the texture, thoroughly broken, and it will be of 
the consistence of soft clay. 

The two kinds of earth being prepared in the 
state of a soft paste, they are to be incorporated 
and blended into one mass, which is done by rol- 
liog and stirring them well after they are in the [ 



same vessel, and then kneading them with the feet, 
till they are thoroughly united. AVhen the com- 
pound mass is formed, it is made into cakes, or 
square pieces, and put by layers into cases of wood 
or stone, which must be placed in a moist situa- 
tion, and left for two or three months; dui-ing 
which time a kind of putrid ferment enters into 
the mixture, by which the parts of the different 
matter combine and form a substance with new 
qualities, unknown while separate. This change 
shows itself upon the whole mass by a fetid 
smell, and a greenish or bluish colour, and a te- 
nacity like that of clay, or the argillaceous 
moistened earths. If the time of keeping the 
I)aste in this condition be prolonged to a year 
or more, it will further improve its qualities, 
but great care must be taken to prevent its 
becoming dry; to prevent which, there may 
be occasion to water it. When, however, the 
described qualities are found in the matter, it is fil 
for use, and vessels, 8tc. may be wrought of it 
without any other preparation, the case below ex- 
cepted. 

Composition of English china. 

The following conn)osition will produce wares, 
which will possess the properties of the true china, 
if judiciously managed. 

Alix the best white sand, or calcined flints, fine- 
ly powdered, twenty pounds, of veiy white pearl 
ashes five pounds, of perfect white calcined bones 
two pounds. Temper the whole with the guma 
arable or Senegal, dissolved in water. 

This requires a considerable force and continu- 
ance of heat to bring it to perfection, but it will bt 
veiy white and good when it is properly treated. 
Where mica can be obtained, it is preferable to 
calcined bones, and as it will form a kind of paste 
for working, a weaker gum-water will answer tha 
purpose. 

To bake china ivare. 

The furnace for this purpose may be construct- 
ed in the same manneras the potter's kilns usually 
are; and Windsor bricks, with mortar of Windsor 
loam, or Stourbridge clay, should be employed in 
its fabrication. Where they are not to be procured, 
use bricks and clay nearest in their qualities of re- 
sistance. The size of the furnace should be ac- 
cording to the quantity of ware required to be 
baked; hut it must not be too small, lest the body 
of fire may not be suflicient to produce the requi- 
site heat. 

The caffettes, or coffins, to contain the pieces 
when placed in the furnace, are the most material 
utensils. They should be of Stourbridge, or other 
good potter's clay, with a third of sand, and are 
generally made of a round form, with a flat bottom, 
the rim forming the sides, being adapted to the 
height of the pieces to be inclosed. 

The furnace and caffettes being prepared; the 
ware to be baked must be sorted in the caft'ettes 
in the most advantageous mannei" as to room, and 
as many caffettes must be set upon them as the fur- . 
nace will conveniently contain, leaving space for 
the free passage of the fire betwixt the piles: take 
care to cover over the uppermost caffettes in each 
pile, then close the mouth of the furnace, and raise 
the fire so as to heat the caft'ettes red hot in every 
part, and keep them red hot for twelve or fourteen 
hours. It is then to be extinguished, and the fur- 
nace left to cool gradually; and when little or no 
heal remains, the mouth may be opened, and the 
pieces taken out of the caffettes; when they will be 
in a condition to receive the glazing, or to be 
painted with such colours as are used under tha 
glaze. 

To make tobacco pipes. 

These require a very flue, tenacious, and refrac 



POTTERY. 



371 



lOry clay, which is either naturally of a perfectly 
vhite colour, or, if it have somewhat of a gray- 
cast, will necessarily burn white. A clay of this 
kind must contain no calcareous or ferruginous 
earth, and must also be carefully deprived of any 
sand itrmay contain by washing. It ought to pos- 
sess, besides, the property of si)rinking but little 
in the fire. If it sliould not prove sufficiently duc- 
tile, it maybe meliorated by the admixture of ano- 
ther sort. Last of all, it is beaten, kneaded, ground, 
■washed, and sifted, till it acquires the requisite de- 
gree of fineness and ductility. When, after this 
preparation, tht clay has obtained a due degree of 
ductility, it is rolled out in small portions to the 
usual length of a pipe, perforated with the wire, 
and put, togetlier with the wire, into a brass mould, 
rulibed over with oil, to give it its external form; 
after which it is fixed into a vice, and the hollow 
part of the head formed with a stopper. The pipes, 
thus brought into form, are cleared of the redun- 
dant clay that adheres to the seams, a rim or bor- 
der is made round the head, the)' are tiien marked 
with an iron stamp upon the heel, and the surfaces 
smoothed and polished. When they are well 
dried, they are put into boxes, and baked in a fur- 
nace. 

To make crucibles. 
Mr Charles Cameron, Glasgow, has published a 
description of a new method of forming crucibles. 
The Dutch have long enjoyed an almost exclusive 
monopoly in the manufacture of the small melting- 
pot, or cla}' crucible, used by the jeweller and sil- 
versmith. I established a small manufactory of 
them, as follows: for each of the different sizes of 
the crucibles, 1 formed ten or twelve dozen of 
moulds of stucco, burnt and powdered in the usual 
•manner. For the first mould of each size, I form- 
ed a piece of soft pipe clay into tiie shape of the 
intended crucible, and laid it with its mouth down- 
wards on a flat surface, and enclosed it with a cy- 
linder of white iron, distant about half an inch 
from the angular points of the crucible, and about 
un inch and a half higher than its bottom: then 
mixing the stucco with water, poured it into tiie 
cylinder. When the stucco was sufficiently set, I 
removed the wiiite-iron, picked out tiie clay, and 
dried the mould. 1 tlien squeezed soft clay into 
the mould, wiiich, on standing a few minutes, easily 
came out again. It was inclosed in tiie cjlinder, 
and stucco poured round it, which formed a second 
mould, continuing to do so until 1 had procured 
Uie number wanted. They were then all put into 
Sk stove, and completely dried ready for use. In 
Uie preparation of the fire-clay for the crucibles, 1 
followed precisely the same process used at tlie 
potteries, by mixing it with a very large quantity 
of water, and putting the whole through a No. 9 
silk searce. On allowing the whole to stand a few 
hours, the clay subsided, and, in pouring oft' the 
clear water, I procured the clay or slip of the con- 
sistence of thick cream. On weighing a gallon of 
it, I found the proportion of clay it contained, and 
added sand to the whole in the proportion of seven 
of sand to sevehteeu of clay; I then stirred and 
mixed the whole completely, when it was ready 
for use. I next took my moulds, previously dried, 
and arranged them in parallel rows on a table, and 
successively filled them with the prepared slip. 13y 
tlie time I had filled four or five dozen, I returned 
to the one first filled, and began alternately to pour 
tlie slip out of them, leaving a small quantity un- 
poured out, whicii subsided, and gave tlie requisite 
tliickness to the bottom. In each of the moulds so 
filled, a crucible is completely formed by the ab- 
straction of the water of the slip, in contact with, 
and adjoining to, the porous substance of the stucco 
mould. The crucible will be either thicker or 



thinner in proportion to the time the slip has re- 
mained in it. Five or six dozen will not require 
more than fifteen minutes in being formed. The 
moulds with their contents are then removed to a 
stove, placed on tlieir side, and built one above the 
■other. In a short time, from tlie contraction of 
the clay, the crucibles easily part from the moulds, 
and are removed by introducing the finger into 
them. The moulds are allowed to remain in their 
situation until the water they had absorbed is com- 
pletely evaporated, when tiiey are again ready for 
re-fiUiiig, and will last for years. The crucibles 
remain in the stove until dry, after which they are 
burned in a kiln in the usual manner. 
To make -white glaze. 

Take 26 parts of glass, 7 do. litliarge, 3 do. ni- 
tre, 1^ do. arsenic, \ do. blue calx; — either fritted 
in a glass oven or not. 

To make glaze. 

Take 93 parts of lead, 45 do. stone, 25 do. flint, 
and 9 do. frit. 

To make china glaze for printing bliie frit. 

Take 10 parts of glass, 2 do. lea^, and 3 or 3J 
do. blue calx, as requii'ed. 

To make -white frit. 

Take 15 parts of glass, 5 do. lead, 1 do. arsenic, 
2^ do. nitre. 

Take 11 parts of white frit to the whole of blue 

frit, and grind them together. Then take of the 

mica frit, 8 parts of the above, 5 do. flint, 13 do. 

Cornish stone, 23 do. lead, and 6 oz. common salt. 

To make cream coloured glaze. 

Take 60 parts of Cornish stone, 20 do. flint, and 
120 do. white lead. Stained with I oz. of smalts, 
as above. 

To form a yello-w glaze. 

Take 2 parts of litharge, 2 do. tin-ash, and 1 do. 
anliraoii}'. 

To prepare ivhite glaze. 

Take 15 parts of Cornish stone, 10 do. flint glass, 
5 do. anica flint, 5 do. nitre, 5 do. borax, I do. com- 
mon salt, and 1 do. sal soda; fritted in a glass oven. 
Then add 2 parts frit, as above, to I do. wliite lead. 
Send to mill to grind very fine, and stain with 7 oz. 
of blue calx. 

To make a mixture for glaze. 

Take 20 lbs. of white frit, 10 do. flint, 26 do. 
stone, 50 do. lead, and 4 oz. of blue. 

To make a mixture of glaze for printing blue. 

Take 6 parts of white frit, 5 cfo. flint, 13 do. 
stone, 25 do. lead, and 55 do. glass. 

'To make a shining black glaze. 

Take 100 parts of lead, 18 do. flint, and 40 do. 
manganese. 

To make a purple under glaze. 

Take ^ oz. of fluxed blue, I oz. manganese, 1 oz. 
red lead, and 1 oz. flint. 

To prepare an orange sponge dip. 

Take 1 quart of yellow slip, to 1 oz. zaffre. 
To prepare a bro-wn under glaze. 

Take 8 oz. of glass antimony, 16 oz. litharge, 3 
oz. manganese, and 4 drs. blue calx. 
To prepare a china glaze. 

Take 42 parts of flint glass, 3 oz. blue cal.\. 
Stain. 16 oz. flint glass, 1 do. red lead, 1 arsenic, 
and 1 nitre. — White enamel. Run down in glass 
oven; then send with the above stain to the mill, 
8 parts of white enamel, dry it and it will be fit 
for use. 8 parts of the above mixture (stain and 
white enamel), 6 do. dry flint, 14 do. Cortjish stone, 
24 do. white stone, which, when sifted, is £t for 
use. 

To prepare a china glaze for foils. 

Take 27 parts of flint, 15 do. nitre, 4^ do, lime, 
3J do. stain. This run down in a glass oven, and, 
when sent to the mill, add 75 parts of glass, 15 do. 
lead, 10 do. white enamel; add 2 pailsl'ul oif lime, 



372 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



and, when it comes from the mill, add 135 parts 
of lead. Stain to the above, 10 parts of glass, and 

5 oz. of blue. 

To prepare ivhite enamel. 
Take 7 oz. of arsenic, V2 do. potash, 6 do. nitre, 

6 do. glass, 2 do. flint, and 3 do. white lead. 

'J'o prepare china glaze. 
Take 56 parts of stone, 46 do. borax, 18 do. glass, 
15 do. flint, and 40 do. lead. 

To prepare green edge glaze. 
Take 20 parts of lead, 60 do. stone, 20 do. flint, 
and 10 do. ground glass. 

To prepare materials for common -ware. 
Take 25 parts of flint, 60 do. stone, 95 do. lead, 
and 8 do. frit. 

To prepare glaze for green edge. 
Take 175 parts of lead, 100 do. stone^and 35 do. 
ilint. 

To prepare ftiixes for blue printing. 
Take 5 parts of blue calx, 5^ do. coak stone, 1^ 
do. glass, and 1 do. flint. 

To prepare flux for black printing. 
Take 7^ parts ofllint glass, 2| do. red lead, and 
2 do. borax. 

To prepare red Jliur. 
Take 5 parts of lead, 1 oz. of borax, and 12 do. 
of glass. 

To prepare black for printing. 
Take 1 part of calcined copper, 1|- do. red flux. 
Passed through the enamel kiln, 1^ of calx, sent 
to the mill for grinding. 

To prepare copper black. 
Take 1 lb. of calcined copper, pound fine, and 
put into the enamel kiln, and it will come out 
black. Then 1^ oz. of red flux, put tiirough the 
enamel kiln, second time; then 1 of the above, and 
1| of flux, ground fine for use. 

To prepare red for planting. 
Take green copperas calcined to a fine powder, 
•wasb it well 10 or 12 days, and dry it; 1 of the 
above to 6 of red flux. 

To prepare umber black. 
Take 5 oz. of umber, 2 do. borax, 1 do. blue 
calx. One of the above to 2 flux, as under; 7^- 
flint glass, 2^ red lead, and 2 borax. 
To prepare black. 
Take 3 oz. of calcined umber, 1 do. borax: run 
down together. Tbiswill fine with gold. 
To prepare oil for black printing. 
Take half a pint of linseed oil, boiled well until 
of a proper consistence, to which add a small quan- 
tity of IJarbadoes tar, prepared the same way. 
Anotlier. 
Take 1 quart of linseed-oil, 4 oz. flowers of sul- 
J)hur, 4 oz. balsam of sulphur, 8 oz. black rosin. 
To form a cream colour body. , 
Take 2 cwt. blue clay, I do. black do. 3 qrs. flint, 
and I qr. Cornish stone. 

To form another common body. 
Take 3 cwt. black clay, 2 do. brown do. 2 do. 
blue do. 1 do. flint, 40 lbs. Cornish stone. 
To form a blue printing body. 
Take 2 parts black clay, 2 brown do. 4 blue do. 
S china do. 2 flint, and ^ Cornish stoue. 
Another. 
Take 20 cwt. blue clay, 5 do. black do. 2J do. 
browQ do. 2 do. china do. 2 do. flint, and ^ do. Cor- 
hlsh stone. 

To make a chalk body. 
Take 3| parts Moor clay, 3 do. raw pulverized 
flint, 2 do. blue ball clay, 4 drs. smalt. — frit. — 
Flint 2 parts, bone 3|, lime ^, and potash ^. 

Jlnother. 
■ Take 2 parts blue clay, 2 do. china do. 3 do. 
flint, and l-8th Cornish stone. — Farr. — 10 parts 
Jjlass, 15 do. stone, 5 do. flint, 3 do. boraxi 



To form a cane body. 

Take 4 parts black marl, 2 do. Cornish stone, 
and 1 ilo. cream-coloured clay. 

To form a jasper body. 

Take 3 parts coke stone, 2 do. Cornish do. IJ 
do. blue clay, ^ do. flint, and 1 dr. blue calx. 
'J'o form a drab body. 

Take 2 parts blue clay, 1 do. Cliina do. 3 do. 
composition, ^ do. Brad well wood clay. 
To form a pearl body. 

Take 6 parts Cornish stone, 2 do. Derbyshire 
clav, 1 do. flux. Flv^, 8 parts glass, 2^ do. red- 
lead. 

To form a stone body. 

Take 2 parts blue clay, 2 do. china do. 4 do, 
composition. 

'Jo form an Egyptian black body. 

Take blue clay, 30 parts, black marl, 5 do. cal- 
cined car, 25 do. manganese, 2 do. 
'I'o form a china body. 

Take blue clay, 12 parts, china do. 6 do. bone, 
12 do. Cornish stone, 12 do. flint, 6 do. flint glass 
2 do. 

Common glazing for earthen -ware. 

Take of white sand, '40 lbs. red lead, 20 lbs. 
pearl as!ies, 20 lbs. common salt, 12 lbs. Powder 
tiie sand by grinding before it be mixed with the 
other ingredients, and then grind them together, 
after which, calcine them for some lime with a 
moderate heat, which must be less than will make 
them melt and run to glass; and when tbe mix- 
ture is cold, grind it to jwwder again, and, when 
wanted, temper it with water, and it will then be 
fit for use. 

The proportions of these ingredients may be 
varied occasionally, for, where the glazing can be 
fluxed conveniently with a very strong fire, the 
quantity of sand may be increased to 50 or 70 lbs. 
which not only renders the glazing stronger, but 
makes a saving in the expense. The proportion 
of pearl-ashes may likewise be diminished, or they 
may be wholly omitted where the ware is designed 
fur very coarse purposes, and not for domestic 
uses, where the lead- is very improper, being ex- 
tremely apt to be corroded by acids, and to pro- 
duce a very unwholesome substance. On this ac- 
count, where good manufactories are established, 
the lead ought to be excluded from the composition 
of the glazings, and other tiu.xes used in its stead, 
as in the following: 

'I'ransparenl glazing for earthenivare. 

Take of white saud, 40 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 21 lbs. 
and of common salt, 15 lbs. Calcine, and proceed 
as above. 

Wbere the expense is no object, this glazing may 
be improved by adding one or two pounds of bo- 
rax, and diminishing the pearl-ashes, in the pro- 
portion of six pounds for one ])Ound of borax ad- 
ded, or ten pounds for two; in the latter case, two 
pounds of suit may be also kept out of the compo- 
sition. The reason for this change is, that if the 
composition contain so large a proportion of salt, 
and the glazing be not fluxed for a long time after 
it is laid on the ware, it will be apt to be dissolved 
by boiling water, and peel ofl", if it be exposed to 
the action of it for any long time. 
Anotiier. 

Take of sand, 40 lbs. of wood ashes, perfectly 
burnt, 50 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 10 lbs. of common 
salt, 12 lbs. 

This will make an admirable glazing, where the 

ashes are pure, and a strong fire can be given to 

flux it when laid on the ware. It will be perfectly 

free from the imperfection of the above, and will 

, be very hard and glossy, and wbere the expense 

I can be' afforded, it may be made more yielding to 



POTTERY. 



373 



tne fire by the addition of borax, in -nliich case no 
alteration need be made in the proportion of the 
other in;j;re(lients. 

To prelmre masticot used as the t^roiind nf glazing. 
Take of clean sand, one hundreii weight; of so- 
da, 4-i lbs. and of pearl-aslies, 30 lbs. Calcine the 
mixture,. 

Tills is the Dutch method, but the soda not be- 
ing employed in tiiis country, those who would use 
masticot must increase the quantity of pearl-aslies 
in an equivalent proportion, and therefore "0 lbs. 
should be employed instead of tlie 30. 
J\lasticot for xohite glazing. 
Take of masticot, prepared as in the preceding, 
0»e hundred pounds, calx of tin, SO lbs. and of 
common salt, 10 lbs. Calcine and powder this 
composition three several times. 

Tlie calx of tin is prepared and sold under the 
name of putty. Its goodness consists in its white- 
ness and purity; the first of whicii is easily known 
by com|)aring it with a specimen of any that is 
known to be good. 

Another preparation. 
Take of mastic 10 lbs. red lead, 60 lbs. calcined 
tin or putty, '20 lbs. and of common salt, 10 lbs. 
Mix them, and calcine and powder the mixture 
several times. 

Another. 
Take 2 lbs. of "lead, and somewhat more than 1 
lb. of tin. Calcine the two metals till reduced to 
a powder, by the means used by potters. Tlien 
lake two parts of these ashes, one part of white 
sand, calcined flints, or broken white glass, and 
half a pint of common salt. Mix well together 
the several ingredients, and set the matter to bake 
in a proper furnace, and urge it at length to melt. 
The trouble of calcining the tin and lead may 
be saved here, as w ell as on the occasions above- 
mentioned, by procuring them already reduced to 
a proper state. 

Another. 
Take H Ib's. of lead, and 1 lb. of tin. Reduce 
them to the state of a calx, and then take of the 
calcined matter, 8 parts, and of calcined Hints and 
common salt, each 4 parts. Bring the niixtiu-e, 
by heat, to a state of fusion. 
Another. 
Take of lead, 3 parts, and of tin, 1 part. Cal- 
cine them, and tlien take of this matter, and of 
calcined flints, and common salt, each i parts. 
Fuse them as above. 

Another. 
Take of lead, 4 lbs. tin, 1 lb. Calcine them, 
and take of the matter, 8 ))arts, of calcined flints, 
7 parts, and of common salt, 4 parts. Fuse them 
as the others. 

Jf'hite glazing far copper vessels. 
Take of lead, 4 lbs., of tin, 1 lb., of flints, 4 
lbs., of common salt, I lb., and of Venetian glass, 
1 lb. Melt the mixture, and it will be fit for use. 
Another. 
Take of lead, 4 lbs., and of tin, 1 lb. Calcine 
them, and take of the matter, 12 parts, of flints, 
14 parts, and of common salt, 8 parts. Fuse them 
as the others. 

Very fine xvldte glazing. 
Take of lead, 2 parts, and of tin, 1 part. Cal- 
cine them, and take of tlie matter, one part, of 
flints and common salt, each one part. Fuse the 
mixti^-e. 

Enamel for earthenware. 
Take of tin, any quantity, and enclose it in clay 
or loam, and put it in a crucible. Place the cru- 
cible in the fire, that the tin may calcine, and then 
•jreak it. There will be a pound of calx very 
••hite, and when it is used to paint with, on a 



white ground, the colour will come forfn and be 
much whiter than thai of the ground. 
YeUo-iv glazing. 
Take of tin and antimony, each 2 lbs., of lead, 
3 lbs., or, according to some, equal quantities of 
all the three ingredients. Calcine the whole, and 
put them at last in fusion, that they may be vitri- 
fied. This glazing will run very soon, and be of 
a fine yellow colour. 

The calcining the tin, lead, and antimony to- 
gether, as here directed, wotdd be a very tedious 
ojieration. The calcined tin, and red lead, should 
therelore be used, and the antimony calcined alone. 
But it is not to be understood that the antimony- 
is to be calcined for this purpose to whiteness, or 
the state of a perfect calx, which is not easily prac- 
ticable without nitre, and, if eftected, would ren- 
der the antimony incapable of producing any other 
colour than while. The operation must therefore 
be performed with a slow fire, by roasting, as it 
were, the antimony till it lose its metallic appear- 
ance, and become a greenish powder, as is prac- 
tised in making the glass of antimony. 
Another. 

Take 5 parts of red lead, 2 parts of powdered 
bark, 1 part of sand, 1 part of any of the preceding 
white glazings, and 2 parts of auiiniony. This 
mixture must be calcined, and then fused, and it 
will give a fine yellow glazing. 
Another. 

Take 7 parts of the mixture of the calxes of tin 
and lead, mentioned before in the^^-eoipe for prfc- 
paring the maSticot for a white glazing. Add I 
part of antimony, and fuse them together. 
Another. 

Take 4 parts of white glass, 1 part of antimony, 
3 parts of red lead, and 1 part of iron scales. Fuse 
the mixture. 

Another, 

Take 16 parts of flints, 1 part of filings of iron, 
and 24 parts of litharge. Fuse the mixture. 
Lemon-cohnired glazing. 

Take of red lead, 3 parts, of ])owdered bricks, 
very red, 3 parts and a half, and of antimony, 1 
part. Calcine the mixture day and night for the 
space of 4 days, in the ash-hole of a glass house 
furnace. Urge it at last to fusion, and it will pro- 
duce a very fine lemon-coloured glazing. 

The success of this operation depends greatly on 
the fineness of the colour of the bricks that are 
powdered. Those which are of a fine red, and 
very brittle, are the best; but such as are grey will 
not at all answer the end. The same attention 
should be paid to this matter, wherever bricks are 
used in these kinds of preparations. 
Jjight yellow glazing. 

Take of red-lead, 4 parts, of antimony, 3 parts, 
of the mixture of the calxes of lead and tin, be- 
fore-mentioned in the masticot for white glazing, 
8 parts, and of glass, 3 parts. 

\Vhen the red-lead and calx of tin are used, the 
proportion of the ingredients will be, of red-lead, 
10 parts, of antimony and glass, each 3 parts, and 
of calcined tin, 2 parts. 

Gold-coloured glazing. 

Take of red lead, 3 parts, of antimony, 2 parts, 
and of saff"ron of Mars, I part. J'use the mixtuie, 
and, having powdered the mass, melt it again, and 
repeat this operation till the fourth time, and a 
tine gold-coloured yellow will be produced. 

Any preparation of the calcined iron may be 
used m the place of the saflVon of Mars, and the 
repeated fusions and levigations seem unnecessary. 
Another. 

Take of red lead and white flints, each 12 parts, 
and of tilings of iron, 1 part. Fuse them twice. 

2 G 



374 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Tliis glazing will be transparent. Care must 
therefore be taken what ground it be laid upon, or 
it will ,not answer the end of a yellow, but corn- 
Line with tliat of the ground; and, indeed, the 
body of colour is too weak to produce any other 
than a faint yellowish cast even on a pure white 
ground. , 

Green glazing to be laid on a -white gromul. 

Take of calcined copper, 1 part, and -2 parts of 
any of the preceding yellow glazings. Fuse them 
twice, but when the composition is used, it must 
not be laid on too thick, for that would render the 
colour too deep. 

Fine green glazing. 

Take of the Bohemian granite, 1 part, of filings 
of copper, 1 part, of red lead, 1 part, and of Ve- 
netian glass, 1 part. Fuse the whole, and it will 
attord a very fine green. But the mixture may be 
used without being previously melted. 
Fine bbie glazing. 

Take of red lead, 1 lb. powdered flints, 2 lbs. 
common salt, 2 lbs. tartar, 1 lb. Calcine till it be 
almost white. White of Venetian glass, ^Ib. and 
zaffre, ^ lb. Fuse the whole mixture, and quench 
the melted mass in water. Repeat the same ope- 
ration several times. The same proceeding must 
be adhered to in all the compositions where the 
tartar enters, otherwise they would be too much 
charged with salt, and the colour would not prove 
fine. It is proper, moreover, to calcine the mix- 
ture gently, day and night, for 48 hours, in a glass- 
house furnace. 

Another. 

Take 1 lb. of tartar, ^ of a lb. of red lead, ^ an 
02. of zaffre, and ^ of a lb. of powdered flints. 
Fuse the whole, and proceed in the manner stated 
above. 

Violet-blue glazing. 

Take 12 parts of tartar and an equal quantity 
of flints and zaffre. Proceed as with the above. 
Jlnother. 

Take 4 oz. of tartar, 2 oz. of red leaid, 5 oz. of 
powdered flints, and ^ a drachm of magnesia. 
Proceed as with the above. 

Fine red glazing. 

Take 3 lbs. of antimony, 3 lbs. of red lead, and 
1 lb. of rust of iron. Grind the whole as fine as 
possible, and then paint with it. 
Jliiotlier. 

Take 2 lbs. of antimony, 3 lbs. of red lead, and 
1 lb. of calcined saftmi of Mars. Proceed as 
■with the above. 

Another. 

Take pieces of white glass, and reduce them to 
an impalpable powder. Take afterwards, vitriol 
cahsined to redness, or rather the caput moriiuim 
which is left after the distillation of the oil of vi- 
triol. Edulcorate the calcined vitriol, or caput 
mortuum, by washing with water to free it from 
the salts, and then mix as much of it as there may 
he occasion for with the powdered glass. By this 
means a very fine red will be obtained, that may 
he used for painting; after which the work must be 
burnt. 

To prepare var7iish for pottery ivare, free from 
lead. 

Melt and keep in fusion, for 15 minutes, a mix- 
ture of an oz. of fire-stone and pounded glass; 2 
drachms of salt, half an oz. of X'ipe clay, and an 
oz. and a half of borax. Varnish the pots over 
with this matter, after they have been in the fire, 
and put them again in it for about 18 hours. 
Vaimishfor earttieniuare. 

This varnish is made of equal parts of white- 
glass and soda, finely pulverized, carefully sifted, 
and mixed. 



Chinese mode of glazing china. 

They take the finest pieces of the petunse and 
treat them as before mentioned, by pounding and 
washing over; but extract by repeated washings 
over the very finest part of the powder, which 
keeps so moist with the water, that the mixture 
forms a liquid mass, which they call tiie oil of 
petunse. With this oil they niix an equal weight 
of borax, they then slake a quaniity of quick lime, 
and form layers of that and dried furze; which 
they set on fire. When they have raised a large 
heap, after the first one is burnt to ashes; they col- 
lect them and the lime, and form layers of them 
again, with a fresh quantity of the furze, which 
they burn as before, and the)' repeat this five op 
six times. They then put tlie ashes and lime into 
a vessel with water, adding some borax in the pro- 
portion of one pound to a hundred weight of the 
ashes; they next wash over the finer part of this 
mixture, and pour off at last all fluid from the 
dregs, which they keep together with the solid 
part, washed over. They mix this composition of 
lime, ashes, and salts, with the mixture above 
mentioned, of an equal quantity of the oil of pe- 
tunse and borax, and this compound forms the mat- 
ter for glazing the ware. 

Instead of the petunse, the spar of lead used in 
the Saxon manufacture may be employed for form- 
ing a similar glazing, by treating it in' the same 
manner: and it is said, the glazing of the Dresden 
china is actu.iUy made in this way. 

English glazing for china. 

Take of the finest white sand, or calcined flints, 
20 pounds; of red lead, 18 pounds; of pearl-ash, 10 
pounds; and of common salt, decrepitated, 4 
pounds; levigate the sand or calcined flints and red 
lead well togetlier; and afterwards mix them tho- 
roughly with the pearl-ash and common salt, fuse 
the compound in the manner directed for tiie 
treatment of glass, till it be perfectly vitrified. 
Then, separate the fragments of the ])ot carefully 
from it, and reduce it in a flat agate, or porphyry 
mortar, to an impalpable powder; finally temper it 
with water to the proper consistence for painting or 
glazing. 

Jllodification of the above. 

When this glazing is used for embossed, or other 
fine work, it should be mixed with a third of its 
weight of the spar of lead, or other vitrescent 
earth, in lieu of the petunse, in thecomposition of 
the ware paste. Take carettiat this earth is form- 
ed of the best pieces of spar, or other substance 
used: and that it is rendered to an extreme fine- 
ness, by washing over. The design of this addi- 
tion is to weaken tlie fluxing powder of the glaze; 
which, if used alone, would run the corners and 
edges of the smaller part, and impair the sharp- 
ness and spirit of the work. It is necessary to pur- 
sue the same method with pieces that are to be 
painted with more delicate designs; for the glaz- 
ing, melting otherwise again, in the burning in 
of the colours, would become too fluid, and 
spread them so as to take away the effect of the 
fine touches. 

To glaze without lead. 

M. Westrumb, a German chemist, in conse- 
quence of numerous experiments, has published 
the successful result of several compositions, in 
which not a particle of lead is employed, and 
which in his opinion will prove an useful glazing 
for ordinary vessels. P'irst, 32 parts of sand; 11, 
15, or 20 pans of purified potash; and from 3 to 5 
parts of borax. Second, 32 parts of glass ( we sup- 
pose flint-glass), 16 parts of borax, and 3 parts of 
pure potash. 'I'hird, 150 parts of crystallized 
Glauber's salt, with 8 parts of pulverized charcoal. 



POTTERY. 



375 



fireviously roasted, till it lias acquired a grey co- 
our; 16 j)arts of samd, and 8 parts of borax. 

Another method of glazing without lead has 
heen invented b)^ a potter at Leipzig: it consists of 
half a pound of saltpetre, half a pound of potash, 
and 1 pound of common salt. This composition is 
not very expensive, and is said to produce an ena- 
mel not inferior to that prepared with lead. 
'To apply on every kind of hardware, colours 
■which produce herborisations. 

Herborisations can be of all colours; but the 
most agreeable is that called bistre, which is com- 
posed in tile following manner: — 

A pound of calcined mai\ganese; 6 oz. of burnt 
iron straw, or a pound of irou ore; and 3 oz. of 
flint-powder. 

The manganese and straw or iron ore must be 
pounded separately in a mortar, after which the 
■whole is calcined together in an earthen-pot. This 
mixture, tlius prepared, is all pounded together, 
and tiien mixed in a small tub of water. 

The blue, gi-een, and other colours must be 
composed of the divers substances known to pi-o- 
duce them, and mixed, calcined, and pounded in 
the same manner as for the bistres. 

To make the application of these various co- 
lours to the pieces, it is necessary, instead of di- 
luting them with water, as is practised for ordinary 
painting, to make use of an)- kind of mordant. 
The most advantageous, and which are employed 
with the greatest success, are urine, and tlie es- 
sence of tobacco. 

If the essence of tobacco is made use of, infuse 
2 oz. of good tobacco in leaves, during 12 hours, in 
a bottle of cold water, or very simply infuse the 2 
oz. of tobacco in a bottle of hot water. 

The pieces of clay, after taking a little consist- 
ency, are steeped in white or coloured worm-seed, 
until the batii puts them in a state 'of moisture. 
To produce herborisations, it will be sufficient, 
whilst the worm-seed is still fresh, and at the mo- 
ment when the piece is taken down from the tub, 
to lay on slightly, and with a brush, one or several 
drops of other colours: each drop produces a tree 
more or less great, according as the workman has 
charged his brush wiili colours. 
To ornament all kinds of glass in imitation of en- 
graving, &c. 

The method heretofore known for engraving on 
glass, has been by means of a machine with 
wheels, of difterent substances, which have been ! 
employed with sand, 5«c. to grind oft" some parts ■ 
of the surface of the glass which is to be engraved 
on, and then by means of grinding and polishing 
different parts on the rough surface, the different 
figures are formed according to the designs given. 
By this invention, instead of grinding or taking off 
any part of the surface of the glass, tiie patentee 
lays on an additional surface or coating of glass, 
prepared for the purpose, which, when subjected 
to a proper degree of heat, will incorporate with 
the glass to be operated upon, so as to produce an 
effect similar to tliat which has hitherto been ob- 
tained by means of grinding. When it is requir- 
ed to ornament glass, then, previously to the heat 
being applied, with an etching or engraving tool, 
such parts are to be taken out as will produce the 
required effect, and that in a much superior way [ 
to the effect produced by the usual mode of grind- i 
ing, polisiiing, &c. The materials used are to be 1 
luelled in a crucible, or other pot, and they are to 
be made up in the same manner as if used for the 
making of the best flint glass, broken glass, or, as 
it is usually denominated, "cuUitt," being the 
principal ingredient in it. Several mixtures 
are given, of which the first is, 160 parts of cul- 



litt, 10 of pearl-ashes, 40 of red lead, and 10 of 

arrence. 

The second is, 120 parts of cuUitt, 160 of red 
lead, 60 of sand, and 60 of borax. 

The third is, 70 parts of red lead, 2C^ of sand, 
and 410 of calcined borax. 

When these are subjected to siKh a heat as to be 
theieby completely fused, take equal parts of each 
mixture, and grind them to an impalpable powder, 
for the ])urpose of being mixed with a menstruum 
proper for coating tiie glass. 

The menstruum consists of one part of double 
refined loaf sugar, dissolved in two parts of pure 
water: to which is added, at the time of mixing the 
powder, about one-third part of common writing 
ink — the effect, we are told, produced by this ad- 
dition of oxide of manganese, used in a small 
quantity by the glass-makers, in making their best 
flint-glass, because without sucli an addition the 
specimens would be of a cloudy or milky appear- 
ance. A quantity of this menstruum is used suffi- 
cient to render the ground-mixture of a proper 
consistence for laying on with a thin smooth sur- 
face. When the coating or mixture is thus pre- 
pared, the glass is to be coated by means of a ca- 
mel's hair brush, or squirrel's foot, &c. It is then 
to be exposed to a heat sufficient to produce a semi- 
vitrification of the coaty surface, and to incorporate 
it with the substance or body of glass so coated. 
But the heat must not be carried higher than this, 
because, in that case, a com()lete vitrification 
would ensue, and the desired efteet of having a 
surface in imitation of the rough surface produced 
by grinding, would not be obtained: the article 
must, under such circumstances, be re-coated, and 
submitted again to the fire. If, after the coating 
has been applied, any borders, cyphers, or other 
ornaments, are wanted to be executed thereon, 
then, previously to the heat being applied with an 
etcliing or engraving tool, such parts of the coated 
surface must be chased out, as will produce the de- 
sired effect, after which the requisite degree of 
heat is to be applied. 

This invention is not only applicable to all 
kinds of useful and ornamental articles of glass- 
ware, on which the common methods of engraving 
have been practised, but may be applied to win- 
dow glass and plate-glass of every description, in 
place of grinding, for the purpose of making win- 
dow-blinds. It is also said to be peculiarly adapt- 
ed to produce beautiful specimens of art, for the 
windows of altar-pieces, libraries, museums, 
coach-windows, and for the glass used in ornamen- 
tal buildings of all descriptions. This invention 
has another advantage over the common method, 
bv the work wearing much cleaner than the work, 
of ground glass; the surface of which being frac- 
tured by the action of the wheel, kc. is therefore 
liable to gather dirt on the rough unpolished parts 
of the borders, 8cc. 

To make the Bologna phial. 

The Bologna, or philosopiiical phial, is a small 
vessel of glass, which has been suddenly cooled, 
open at the upper end, and rounded at tlie boltom. 
It is made so thick at the bottom, that it will bear 
a smartijlow against a hard body, without break- 
ing; but if a little pebble, or piece of flint, is let fall 
into it, it immediately cracks, and the bottom falls 
into pieces: but, uidess the pebble or flint is large 
anil angular enough to scratch tlie surface of the 
glass, it will not bi-eak. 

'Jo make Jinnee Riiperfs di-ops. 

Prince Rupert's drops are made by letting drops 
of melted glass fall into cold water; the drop as- 
sumes by that means an oval form with a tail or 
neck resembling a retort. They possess this sin- 



376 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



gular property, that if a small portion of the tail 
is broken off, the whole bursts into powder, with 
an explosion, and a considerable shock is commu- 
nicated to the hand that grasps it. 

To bi-eak glass in any required -way. 
Dip a piece of worsted lhrea(l in spirits of tur- 
pealiiie, wrap it round tlie glass in the direction 



required to be broken, and then set fire to the 
thread, or apply a red hot wire round the glass, 
and if it does not immediately crack, throw cold 
water on it while the wire remains iiot. By this 
means glass that is broken may often be fashioned 
and rendered useful for a variety of purposes. 



GI.ASS. 



To mamifacture glass. 

Glass is a combination of sand, flint, spar, or 
some other silicious substances, with one or other 
of the fixed alkalies, and in some cases with a me- 
tallic oxide. Of the alkalies, soda is commonly 
preferred; and of the silicious substances, wbite 
sand is most in repute at present, as it requires no 
preparation for coarse snoods, while mere washing 
in water is sufficient for those of a finer quality. 
Tlie metallic oxide, usually emploj'ed, is litharge, 
or some other preparation of lead, as being the 
cheapest metal. 

The silicious matter should he fused in contact 
with something called a flux. The substances pro- 
per for this purpose are lead, borax, arsenic, nitre, 
or any alkaline matter. The lead is used in tiie 
state of red lead; and the alkalies nre soda, pearl- 
ashes, sea-salt, and wood-ashes. When red lead 
is used alone, it gives the glass a yellow cast, 
and requires the addition of nitre to correct it. 
Arsenic, in the same manner, if used m excess, is 
apt to render the glass milky. For a i)erfectly 
transparent glass, the peai-1-ashes are found nip.cli 
superior to lead; jjerhaps better than any oilier 
flux, except it be borax, which is too expeiisiv(; to 
Le used, except for experiments, or for the best 
looking-glasses. 

The materials for making glass must first be re- 
duced to powder, which is done in mortars or by 
horse mills. After sitting out the coarse parts, the 
proper proportions of siiex and flux are mixed to- 
gether, and put into the calcining furnace, where 
they are kept in a mo<lerate heat for 5 or 6 hours, 
being frequently stirred about during the process. 
AVhen taken out, the matter is called frit. Frit is 
easily converted into glass by ooly pounding it, and 
vitrifying it in the melting pots of the glass furnace; 
but in making fine glass, it will sometimes require 
a sn>all addition of flux to the frit to correct any 
fault. For, as the flux is the most expensive arti- 
cle, the manufacturer will rather put too little at 
first than otherwise, as he can remedy this defect 
in the melting pot. Tlie heat in the furnace must 
be kept up until the glass is brought to a state of 
]>erfect fusion; and during this process anj' scum 
which arises must be removed by ladles. When 
the glass is perfectly melted, the glass-blowers 
commence their operations. 

For the best flint-glass, 120 lbs. of white sand, 
50 lbs. of red le«d, 40 lbs. of the best pearl ashes, 
20 lbs. of nitre, and 5 oz. of magnesia; if a pound 
or two of arsenic be added, the composition will 
fuse much quicker, and with a lower tempera- 
ture. 

For a cheaper flint-glass, take 120 lbs. of white 
sand, 35 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 40 lbs. of red lead, 
13 lbs. of nitre, 6 lbs. of arsenic, and 4 oz. of 
magnesia. 



This requires a long heating to make clear glass; 
and the heat shoidd be brought on gradually, or 
the arsenic is in danger of subliming before the 
fusion commences. A still clieaper composition 
is made by omitting the arsenic in the foregoing, 
and substituting common sea-salt. 

For the best German crystal glass, take 120 lbs. 
of calcined flints or white sand, the best peari- 
ashfS, 70lbs. saltpetre, 10 lbs. arsenic, ^ lb. and 
5 oz. of magnesia. Or, a cheajier composition for 
the same pur[)ose is 120 lbs. of sand or flints, 46 
lbs. of [jeail-ashes, 7 lbs. of nitre, bibs-, of arsenic, 
ami 5 oz. of magnesia. This will require a long 
continuance in the furnace; as do all others where 
much of the arseiilc is employed. 

For looking-glass plates, washed white sand, 60 
11)S. purified pearl-asiies, 23 lbs. nitre, 15 lbs. and 
7 lbs. of borax. If properly managed, this glass 
will be colourless. But if it sbouhl he tinged by 
accident, a trifling quantity of arsenic, and an equal 
quantity of magnesia, will correct it; an ounce of 
each may be tried first, and the quantity increased 
if necessary. 

'i'he ingredients for the best crown-glass must 
be prepared in the same manner as for looking- 
glasses, and mixed in tlie following proportions: 
00 lbs. of while sand, CM lbs. of pearl-ashes, and 15 
lbs. of nitre, 1 ib. of borax, and half a pound of 
arsenic. 

The composition for common green window- 
glass is, 120 lbs. of white-sand, 30 lbs. of unpnri- 
fied pearl-ashes, wood-ashes, well burnt and silted, 
60 lbs. common salt, 20 lbs. and 5 lbs. of arsenic. 

Common green bottle-glass is made from 200 lbs. 
of wooil-ashi;s, and 100 lbs. of sand; or 170 lbs. 
of ashes, 100 lbs. of sand, and 50 lbs. of the lava 
of an iron furnace: these materials must be well 
mixed. 

The materials employed in the manufactory of 
glass are by chemists reduced to three classes, 
namely, alkalies, earths, and metallic oxides. 

The fixed alkalies may be employed indifferently; 
but soda is |)referred in this country. The soda 
of conmierce is usually mixed with common salt, 
and cond)ined with carbonic acid. It is proper to 
purify it from both of these foreign bodies before 
using it. This, however, is seldom done. 

The earths are silica (the basis of flints), lime, 
and sometimes a little alumina (the basis of clay). 
Silica conslitules the basis cf glass. It is employ- 
ed in the stale ot fine sands or flints: and some- 
times, fur making very fine glass, rock crystals ara 
euiployed. When sand is used, it ought, if possi- 
ble, to be peifecily white, for when it is coloured 
with metallic oxides, the ti-ansparency of the glass 
is injured. Such sand can only he emploj'ed foi- 
very coarse glasses. It is necessary to free the sand 
from all the loose earthy particles with which it 



GLASS. 



377 



may be mixed^ which is done by washing it well 
with water. 

Lime renders glass less brittle, and enables it to 
•withstand belter the action of the atmospliere. It 
ought in no case to exceed the 20tli part of the 
silica emi>loyed, otlierwise it corrodes the glass 
pots. This indeed may he prevented bytlirowing 
a little clay into the melted glass; but in that case 
a green glass only is obtained. 

The metallic oxides employed are the red oxide 
of lead or litharge, and tiie white oxide of arsenic. 
The red oxide of lead, when added in sufficient 
quantity, enters into fusion with silica, and forms 
a milky hue like the dial plate of a watch. When 
any combustible body is present, it is usual in some 
manufactories to add a little white oxide of arsenic. 
This supplying oxygen, ti)e combustible is burnt, 
and flies oft", wiiile the revived arsenic is at the 
same time volatilized. 

There are several kinds of glass adapted to dif- 
ferent uses. The best and most beautiful are the 
flint and the plate-glass. These, when well made, 
are perfectly transparent and colourless, heavy and 
brilliant. Thej' are composed of fixed alkali, pure 
silicious sand, calcined flints, and litharge, in dif- 
ferent proportions. TLie flint glass contains a large 
quantity of oxide of lead, which by certain pro- 
cesses is easily separated. The plate-glass is pour- 
ed in the melted state upon a table covered with 
copper. The plate is cast half an inch thick, or 
more, and is ground down to a proper degree of 
thinness, and then j)olished. 

Crown-glass, that used for windows, is made 
without lead, chiefly of fixed alkali fused with sili- 
cious sand, to which is added some black oxide of 
manganese, which is apt to give the glass a tinge 
of pur[)le. 

Bottle-glass is the coarsest and cheapest kind: 
into this little or no fixed alkali enters the compo- 
sition. It consists of alkaline earth combined with 
alumina arid silica. In this country it is composed 
of sand and the refuse of the soap-boiler, which 
consists of the lime employed in rendering this al- 
kali caustic, and of the earthy matters, with which 
the alkali was contaminated. The most fusible is 
flint-glass, and the least fusible is bottle-glass. 

Flint-glass melts at the temperature of 10° 
Wedgewood, crown-glass at 30°, and bottle-glass 
at 47°. The specific gravity varies between 2.48 
and 3.38. 

Glass for looking-glass plates, JVo. 1. 
Take of white sand, cleansed, sixty pounds, of 
pui' led pearl-ashes, twenty-five pounds, of salt- 
petre, fifteen pounds, and of borax, seven pounds. 
This composition should be continued long in 
the fire, which should be for some time strong, and 
afterwards more moderate, that the glass may be 
entirely free frSm bubbles before it be worked. It 
vill be entirely clear of all colour, unless in case 
of some accident: but if any yellow tinge should, 
nevertheless, unfortunately infect it, there is no 
remedy, except by adding a small proportion of 
magnesia, which should be mixed with an equal 
quantity of arsenic, and after their being put into 
the glass, giving it a considerable iieat again, and 
then suft'ering it to free itself from bubbles in a 
more moderate one, as before. If the tinge be 
slight, an ounce of magnesia may be firsi tried, and 
if that prove insufficient, the quantity must be in- 
creased, but the glass will always be obscure in pro- 
portion to the quantity that is admitted. 
Looking-glass plates, JSfo. 2. 
Take of the white sand, CO lbs. of pearl-ashes, 
20 lbs. of common salt, 10 lbs. of nitre, 7 lbs. and 
of borax, 1 lb. 

This glass will run with as little heat as the for- 
2X 



mer, hut it will be more brittle, and refi-act the 
rays of light in a greater degiee. 

Crown or best ivinilow glass, JVb. 1. 

Take of white sand sixty ])ouni!s, of purified 
pearl ashes thirty pounds, of saltjjetre fifteen 
pounds, of borax one pound, and of arsenic half a 
pound. 

This will be very clear and colourless, if the 
ingredients be good, and will not be very dear. It 
will run with a moderate heat; but if it be desired 
to be yet more fusible and soft, half a pound or a 
pound more of .irsenic may be added. 

If the glass should prove yellow, the magnesia 
must be used as above directed for the looking- 
glass. 

Cheaper kind of ttnndoiv glass, JVo. 2. 

Take of white sand sixty pounds, of unpuri&ed 
pearl ashes twenty-five pounds, of common salt ten 
pounds, of nitre five pounds, of arsenic two pounds, 
and of magnesia one ounce and a half. 

This will be inferior to the above kind, but may 
be improved, where desired, by purifying the 
pearl-ashes. 

Common or green luindow glass, JN'b. 3. 

Take of white sand sixty pounds, of unpurified 
pearl-ashes thirty pounds, of common salt ten 
pounds, of arsenic two pounds, and of magnesia 
2 oz. 

This is a cheap composition, and will not appear 
too green, nor he very deficient in transparency. 
Common or green ivindoia glass, J\'b. 4. 

Take of the cheapest kind of white sand, one 
hundred and twenty pounds, of unpurified pearl- 
ashes, thirty pounds, of wood-ashes, well burnt 
and sifted, 60 pounds, of common salt twenty 
pounds, and of arsenic five pounds. 

This composition is very cheap, and will pro- 
duce a good glass with a greenish cast. 
liest phial glass, jVo. 1. 

Take of white sand one hundred and twenty 
pounds, of unpurified pearl ashes fifty pounds, of 
common salt ten pounds, of arsenic five pounds, 
and of magnesia five ounces. 

This w ill 1)6 a very good glass for the purpose, 
and will work with a moderate heat, but requires 
time to become clear, on account of the proportion 
of arsenic; when, however, it is once in good con- 
dition, it will come very near to the crystal glass. 

Cheapest green or common pliial glass, JVo. 2. 

Take of tlie cheapest kind of white sand, one 
hundred and twenty pounds; of wopd ashes, well 
burnt and sifted, eighty pounds; of jjearl-ashes, 
twenty pounds; of common salt, fifteen pounds; 
of arsenic one pound. 

This will be green, but tolerably transparent, 
and will work with a moderate fire, and vitrify 
quickly with a strong one. 

GreeiL or bottle glass. 

Take of wood-ashes two hundred pounds, and 
of sand one hundred pounds. Mix them thorough- 
ly well by grinding together. 

This is the due proportion where the sand is 
good, and the wood-ashes are used without any 
other addition. 

The same, with the addition of scoria. 

Take of wood-ashes one hundred and seventy 
pounds; of sand one hundred pounds; and of sco- 
ria, or clinkers, fifty pounds. Mix the whole well 
by grinding them together. 

The clinkers should be well ground before they 
be used, if they admit of it; but frequently they 
are too hard, and in that case they should be bro- 
ken Into as small bits as can be done conveniently, 
and mixed with the other matter without any 
grinding. The harder they are, the less material 
will be the powdering of them as they will the 

2 G 2 



378 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



sooner melt of themselves in the furnace, and con- 
sequently mix with the other ingredients. 

The most perfect kind of flint-glass, JVo. 1. 

Talce of the white sand, itJO lbs. red lead, 50 
Ihs. the best pearl-ashes, 40 lbs. nitre, 20 lbs. mag- 
nesia, 5 oz. 

If this composition he fused with a veiy strong 
fire, and time be given to it, a glass -will be pro- 
duced that will have the play of the best flint glass, 
and yet be hard and strong. It is not so cheap as 
the compositions given below, where arsenic or 
common salt is introduced, or where more of the 
pearl-ashes are used; in either of which cases, 
savings may be made by diminishing proportion- 
ably the quantities of nitre. But the qualities of 
this glass will be found to come nearer to the 
standard of perfection, which is to unite the lustre 
and hardness together in the greatest degree they 
are compatible with each other. 

If this composition be, however, desired to flux 
with less heat, and quicker, a pound or two of 'ar- 
senic may be added, which will be found effectually 
to answer the purpose. 

Flint glass, JVb. 2. 

Take of sand, 120 lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 54 
lbs. red lead, 36 lbs. nitre, 12 lbs. magnesia, 6 oz. 

This will require much the same heat as the 
other, but will be harder in its texture. If it be 
desired to be made more yielding to the fire, ar- 
senic may be added, or the quantity of sand may 
be lessened. In these cases the glass will be softer 
and weaker. 

Flint-glass, JVo. 3. 

Take of white sand, 120 lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 
35 lbs. arsenic, 6 lbs. magnesia, 4 oz. ' 

This glass will require a considerable time in 
the fire to become clear, and must not, if it can be 
avoided, be strongly urged at first. Tiiis glass will 
not be so hard as those of the above compositions, 
but it will be very clear, and may be employed for 
large vessels, where a sufficient thickness can be 
allowed to give them strength. 

Cheaper composition of glass, JVo. 4. 

Take tlie proportions of the other ingredients 
given in the last, and omitting the arsenic, add, in 
its stead, 15 lbs. of common salt. 

This will be more brittle than the last, and 
therefore cannot be recommended, unless for the 
fabrication of such kind of vessels, or other pieces, 
where the strength is of little moment. 

Cheapest composition of flint-glass, JVo. 5. 

Take of the white sand, 120 lbs. red lead, 30 
lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 20 lbs. nitre, 10 lbs. 
common salt, 15 lbs. arsenic, 6 lbs. 

This glass will fuse with a moderate heat, but 
requires time, like the last, to take off the milky 
appearance of the arsenic; it is yet softer than the 
last, and may therefore be deemed the worst kind 
of flint that can be made. 

Hest German crystal-glass, JVo. 6. . 

Take of the calcined flints, or white sand, 120 
lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 70 lbs. saltpetre, 10 lbs. 
arsenic, ^ lb. magnesia, 5 oz. 

If the pearl-ashes be pure and good, this glass 
•will equal the best of this kind that ever was made. 
Borax has been frequently used also in the compo- 
sitions of this sort of glass, but its great price, 
without any equivalent advantage, will deter from 
the employi^ig it in large manufactures, as there is 
no sort of transparent glass, (plate excepted,) that 
can bear the expense of it. 

German crystal-glass, JVo. 7. 

Take of calcined flints, or white sand, 120 lbs. 
pearl-ashes, 46 lbs. magnesia, 5 oz. 

This composition requires a long continuance 
of heat, on account of the arsenic, for tlie reason 
before given. It produces a glass equally or more 



transparent and colourless than the preceding, but 
somewhat more brittle. The arsenic is, however, 
so disagreeable an ingredient, from the deleterious 
qualities of the fumes, which will necessarily rige 
copiously till the fusion of the other ingredients 
check it, that, where the advantage is not more 
considerable than the saving arising from the dif- 
ference of these two recipes, it is scarcely worth 
while to submit to the inconvenience of it. 
To anneal glass. 

Nealing, as it is called by the workmen, is a 
process in the glass houses, and consists in putting 
the glass vessels, as soon as they are formed, and 
while they are yet hot, into a furnace or an oven, 
not so liot as to re-melt them, and in which they 
are suffered to cool gradually. . This is found to 
prevent their breaking easily, particularly on ex- 
posure to heat. 

A similar process is used for rendering cast-iron 
vessels less brittle, and the effect depends on the 
same principles. 

To polish and grind glass. 

To grind plate-glass, lay it horizontally upon a 
flat stone table, made of a very fine grained free- 
stone; and for its greater security, plaster it down 
with mortar or stucco. The stone table is sup- 
ported by a stron<^ wooden frame, witli a ledge all 
round its edges, rising about two inches above the 
glass. Upon the plate to be ground is laid another 
rough glass, not above h.-ilf as big, and so loose as 
to slide upon the former; but cemented to a wooden 
plank, to guard it from the injury it must other- 
wise receive from the scraping of the wheel where- 
to the plank is fastened, and from the weights laid 
upon it to promote the triture or grinding of the 
glasses. The whole is covered with a wheel made 
of hard light wood, about six inches in diameter: 
by pulling of which backwards and forwards al- 
ternately, and sometimes turning it round, the 
workmen who always stand opposite to each other, 
produce a constant attrition between the two glass- 
es, and bring them to what degree of .smoothness 
they please, by first pouring in water and coarsa 
sand; after that, a finer sort of sand, as the work 
advances, till at last they pour in the powder of 
smalt. As the upper or incumbent glass becomet 
smooth, it must be removed, and another, from 
time to time, substituted for it. 

The engine just described is called a millby tha 
workmen, and is employed only in grinding tha 
largest-sized glasses. In grinding lesser glasses, 
they usually work without a wheel, having four 
wooden handles fastened to the corners of tha 
stone that loads the upper plank, by which they 
work it about. The grinders' part done, the glass 
is turned over to the polisher, who, with fine pow- 
der of tripoli stone or emery, brings it to a per- 
fect evenness and lustre. The instrument made 
use of in this branch, is a board furnished with a 
felt and small roller, which the workman moves 
by means of a double handle at both ends. The 
artist, in working this roller, is assisted by a 
wooden hoop, or spring, to the end of which it is 
fixed; for the spiing, by constantly bringing the 
roller back to the same points, facilitates the actiou 
of the workman's arm. 

To make frit. 

Frit, in the glass manufacture, is the matter or 
ingredients of which glass is to be made, when 
they have been calcined or baked in a furnace. 
There are three kinds of frit : the first, cnstal frit, 
or that for crystal or clear glass, is made with salt 
of pulverine and sand. The second and ordinary 
frit is made of the bare ashes of the pulverine ot 
barilla, without extracting the salt from them. 
Tills makes the ordinary while or crystal glass. 
The third is frit for green glasses, made of com« 



GLASS. 



37& 



mon ashes, -without any preparation. This last 
frit will require ten or twelve hours baking. The 
materials in each are to be finely powdered, wash- 
ed, and searced; then equally mixed, and frequent- 
ly stirred together in the melting pot. 
To bring pearl-ashes, or any other fixed alkaline 
salt to the Idghest degree of purity. 

Take of the best pearl-ashes, 3 lbs. and of salt- 
petre, 6 oz. Pound them together in a glass or 
marble mortar, till they are thoroughly well mix- 
ed, and then put part of them into a large crucible, 
and set it in a furnace, where it may undergo a 
strong heat. When the part of the matter that 
was first put into the crucible is heated red hot, 
throw in the rest gradually, and if the crucible will 
not contain the whole, pour part of the melted 
matter out on a moistened stone, or marble; and 
having made room in the crucible, put in the rest, 
and let it continue there likewise till it be red hot. 
Pour it out tiien as the other, and afierwards put 
the whole into an eartiien, or very clean iron pot, 
with 10 pints of water, and heat it over the fire, 
till the salts be entirely melted. Let it then be 
taken off tiie fire, stand till it be cold, and after- 
wards filter it through paper in a pewter cullender. 
When it is filtered, return tlie fluid again into the 
pot, and evai)orate the salt to dryness, whicli will 
then be as white as snow, the nitre having burnt 
all the phlogistic matter that remained in the 
pearl-ashes alter their former calcination. 
To polish optical glasses. 

The operation of polishing optic glasses, after 
being properly ground, is one of the most difficult 
points of the whole process. Before the polishing 
is begun, it is proper to stretch an even well 
wrought piece of linen over the tool, dusting upon 
it some very fine tripoli. Then taking the glass 
in the hand, run it round forty or fifty times upon 
the tool, to take off the roughness of the glass 
about the border of it. This cloth is tiien to be 
removed, and the glass to be polished upon the 
naked tool, with a compound powder, made of 
four parts tripoli mixed with one of fine blue vi- 
triol; six or eight grains of which mixture are suffi- 
cient for a glass five inches broad. This powder 
must be wetted with eight or ten drops of clear vi- 
negar in the middle of the tool; being first mixed 
and softened thoroughly with a very fine small 
muller. Then, with a nice brush, having spread 
this mixture tiiinly and equably upon the tool, take 
some very fine tripoli, and strew it thinly, and 
equably, upon the tool so prepared; after whicli, 
take the glass to be polished, wiped very clean, 
and apply it on the tool, and move it gently twice 
or thrice in a straight line backwards and for- 
wards; then take it off, and observe whether the 
marks of the tripoli, sticking to the glass, are 
equably spread over the whole surface: if not, it is 
a sign that either the tool or glass is too warm; in 
in which case wait awhile and tiy it again, till the 
glass takes the tripoli every where alike. Then 
begin to polish boldly, there being no danger of 
spoiling the figure of the glass, which in the other 
case would infallibly happen. 
To purify pearl-ashes for the manufacture of 
mirrors. 

Take any quantity of the best pearl-ashes, and 
dissolve them in four times their weight of water 
boiling, which operation may be best performed in 
a pot of cast iron. When they are dissolved, let 
the solution be put into a clean tub, and suffered to 
remain there twenty-four hours or longer. Let 
Uie clear part of the'fluid be then decanted off from 
the dregs or sediment, and put back into the iron 
pot, in which the water must be evaporated away 
till the salts be left perfectly dry again. They 
should then, if not used immediately, be kept in 



stone jars, well secured from moisture and air, till 
such time as they are wanted. 

Great care should be always taken in this treat- 
ment of (he salts, to keep the iron pot thoroughly 
clean from rust, which would give a yellow tinge 
to the glass, not to be removed without greatly \a^ 
juring it. 



GLASS AND PASTES TO IMITATE PRE- 
CIOUS STONES, &c. 

The best and hardest [(lass for receiving cohicr^ 
m. 1. ■ 

Take of the best sand, cleansed by washing, 
twelve pounds, of pearl-ashes, or fixed alkaline 
salt, purified with nitre, seven ])ounds, of salt-pe- 
tre, one pound, and of borax, half a pound. 

The sand being first reduced to powder in a 
glass or flint mortar, the other ingredients should 
be put to it, and the whole well mixed by pound- 
ing them together. 

Best glass, but not so hard, JVo. 2. 

Take of the while sand cleansed, twelve pounds, 
of pearl-asiies, purified with salt-petre, seven 
pounds, of nitre, one pound, of borax, half a pound, 
and of arsenic, four ounces. 

Proceed as in the last, but if the glass be requir- 
ed to melt with yet less heat, a pound of borax 
may be used instead of the half pound, and a pound 
of common salt may be added ; but this last is apt 
to make the glass more brittle, which is an injury 
done to such as is to be cut into very small pieces, 
and ground with so many angles in the figure, ia 
imitation of jewels. 
Soft glass or paste for receiving colours, JVo. 3. 

Take of white sand cleansed, six pounds, of red 
lead, three pounds, of purified pearl-ashes, two 
po-'mds, and of nitre, one. pound. 

Proceed with the mixture as with the foregoing. 
Glass or paste, softer than the above, JVo. 4. 

Take of white sand, cleansed, 6 lbs. of red lead, 
and purified pearl-ashes, each 3 lbs. of nitre, 1 lb. 
of borax, half a pound, and of arsenic, 3 oz. 

This is very soft and will fuse with a very gentle 
heat, but requires some time to become clear, on 
account of the arsenic. It may even be prepai-ed 
and tinged in a common fire without a furnace, if 
the pots containing it can be surrounded by burn- 
ing coals, without danger of their fiilling into it. 
The boi"ax, being a more expensive ingredient 
than the others, may be omitted where a somewhat 
greater heat can be applied, and the glass is not in- 
tended for very nice purposes; or a pound of com- 
mon salt may be instituted in its place; but the 
glass will be more clear and perfect, and free it- 
self much sooner from bubbles, where the boi-ax is 
used. 

This glass will be very soft, and will not bear 
much water, if employed for rings, buckles, or 
such imitations of stones as are exposed to much 
rubbing. But for ear-rings, ornaments worn on 
the breast, or such others as are but seldom put on, 
it may last a considerable time. 

In all these soft compositions, care should be 
taken that part of the sand be not left unvitrifieil 
in the bottom of the pot, as will sometimes hap- 
pen, for in that case the glass, abounding too much 
with salt and lead, will not bear tlie air, but Oeing 
corroded by it, will soon contract a mistiness and 
specks in the surface, which will entirely eftace all 
the lustre of the paste. 

Hard glass of a full blue colour, JVo. 1. 

Take of the composition of hard glass, No. 1 or 
2, ten pounds, zaftre, 6 dr. and of magnesia, 2 dr. 
Proceed as with the above. 

If this glass be of too deep a colour, the proper- 



380 



UNHTiRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tion of the zafiVe and magnesia to the glass may he 
diminished; and it' it vei'i^e too much on the |)Ur- 
ple, to which cast it will incline, the man;nesia 
should he omitted. If a very cool or pure blue be 
wanted, instead of the ma^^nesia, half an ounce of 
calcined copper may be used, and the proportion 
of zaftVe dijninislied by one half. 

Paste of a fall blue colour, JVo. 2. 
Take of the composition for paste. No. 1 or 2, 
ten pounds, and proceed as with the foregoing. 
Hard glass resembling the sapphire, JVo. 3. 
Take of the compositions for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, of zaffre, three drachms and one 
scruple, of calx cafFei, or precipitation of gold by 
tin, one drachm. Proceed as with the above. 
Cheaper hard glass for ditto, J\'o. 4. 
As the foregoing, only, instead of the precipi- 
tate of gold, use two drachms and two scruples of 
magnesia. 

If this be well managed, the colour will be very 
good, and tlie glass, when set and cut, will not be 
easily distinguisliable from the true sapphire; but 
the preceding will be a finer colour, as there is a 
foulness in the tinge of the magnesia, which will 
always diminish, in some degree, the eiTect of 
brighter colours, when with them. 

Paste resembling the sapphire, JV>. 5. 
Take of the composition for paste, No. 3 or 4, 
and proceed as with the foregoing. 

It is not worth while to bestow the expense of 
colouring paste with the gold, and it is tiierefore 
more expedient, in the case of such, to use the 
other method. 

JIard glass and paste for sapphire, by means of 
smalt, jVo. ft. 
Take of the compositions for hard glass and 
paste, any quantity, and mix with them one-eighth 
of their weight of smalt, the brightest and most 
inclining to purple that can be procured. 

If it be desired to give a more purple tinge, 
magnesia may be added in the proportion required. 
Hard glass resembling eagle marine, J\'o. 7. 
Take of the composition for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds,' of copper, highly calcined with 
sulphur, three ounces, and of zaffre, one scruple. 
Proceed as with the foregoing. 

Paste for eagle marine, JVo. 8. 
Take of the composition for paste. No. 1 or 2, 
ten pounds, and proceed as with the above. 
Hard glass of a gold or yelloiu colour, JVo. 1. 
Take of the composi'ion for iiard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, but omit the salt-petre, and for 
every pound add an ounce of calcined borax, or, if 
that do not render the glass sufficiently fusible, two 
ounces, of red tartar, the deepest coloured that can 
be procured, ten ounces, of magnesia, two ounces, 
of charcoal of sallow, or any otiier soft kind, two 
drachms. Proceed as with the rest. 

Paste of a gold or yellovj colour, JVo. 2. 
Take of the composition for paste. No. 3 or 4, 
prepared without the salt-petre, ten ])Ounds, of 
iron, strongly calcined, one ounce and a half. Pro- 
ceed as with the others. 

The crude tartar snd the charcoal must not be 
used where lead enters into the composition of the 
glass, and the nitre may be spared, because the 
yellow tinge, given to the glass by the lead, on ac- 
count ti which the nitre is used, is no detriment 
in this case, but only adds to the proper colour. 
This colour may also be prepared by crude anti- 
mony, as well as the calcined iron, but it is more 
difficult to be managed, and not superior in its 
effect. 

Hard glass resembling the topaz, JVo. 3. 
Take of the composition for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, and an equal quantity of the gold 



: coloured hard glass. Powder and fuse them to- 
gether. 

As there Is a great variety in the colo'ir of the 
topaz, some being a deeper yellow, and others 
slightly tinged, the proportions of the yellow glass 
to the white may be accordingly varied at pleasure, 
the one here-given being for the deepest. 
Paste resembling the topaz, JVb. 4. 

This may be done in the same manner as the 
preceding, but the salt-petre may be omitted in 
the original composition of the glass, and for the 
resemblance of the very slightly coloured topazes 
neither the gold coloured paste nor any other ting- 
ing matter need he added, that of the lead being 
sufficient, when not destroyed by the nitre. 
Glass resembling the chrysolite, JVo. 5. 

Take of tlie compositions for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, of calcined iron six drachms. 
Proceed as with the above. 

Paste resembling the chrysolite, JVn. 6. 

Take of the composition for paste. No. 3 or 4., 
prepared without salt-petre, ten pounds, and of 
calcined iron, five drachms. Proceed as with the 
rest. 

Hard glass resembling the emerald, JVo. t. 

Take of the composition for hard glass. No. I 
or 2, nine pounds, of copper precipitated from 
aquafortis, three ounces, and of precipitated iron, 
two drachms. 

Paste resembling the emerald, JVo. 2, 

Take of the composition for ])aste. No. 1 or 2, 
and |)i'oceed as with the above; but if the salt-petre 
be omitted in tlie preparation of the paste, a less 
proportion of the iron will serve. 
Hard glass of a deep and very bright purple colour, 
JVo. 1. 

Take of the composition for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, of zafi're, six drachms, of gold 
|)recipitated by tin, one drachm. Proceed as with 
the rest. 

Hard glass of a deep purple colour, JVo. 2. 

Take of the compositions for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, 10 lbs. of magnesia, 1 oz. and of zaft're, ^ oz. 
Proceed as with the other. 

Paste of a deep purple colour, JVo. 3. 

Take of the composition for pastes. No. 3 or 4, 
10 pounds, and treat them as the foregoing. 
Hard glass of the colour of the amethyst, JVo. 4. 

Take of the composition of hard glass. No. 1 or 
2, 10 \)ounds, of magnesia, 1^ oz. and of zatfre, I 
dr. Proceed as with the rest. 

Paste of the colour of the amethyst, JVo. 5. 

Take of the composition for paste. No. 1 or 2, 
10 pounds, and treat it as the preceding. 
Paste resembling the diamond. 

Take of the white sand, 6 lbs. of red lead, 4 lbs. 
of pearl ashes, purified as above directed, 3 lbs. 
of niti'e, 2 lbs. rf arsenic, 5 oz. and of magnesia, 
I scruple. Proceed as with the others, but con- 
tinue the fusion for a considerable time on account 
of the large proportion of arsenic. 

If this composition be thoi'oughly vitrified, and 
kept free from bubbles, it will be very white, and 
have a vei-y great lustre; but, if on examination it 
appears to incline to yellow, another scruple or 
more of the magnesia may be added. It may be 
x'endered harder Ijy diminishing the proportion of 
le;»d, and increasing that of the salts, or fusing it 
with a very strong fire; but the diminution of the 
proportion of lead will make it have less of the 
lustre of the diamond. 

Hard glass perfectly black. 

Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 1 
or 2, 10 lbs. of zaffre, 1 oz. of magnesia, and of 
iron, strongly calcined, each 7 drachms. Proceed 
as with the rest. 



GLASS. 



381 



Paste perfectly black. 

Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
prepared with the salt-petre, 10 lbs. of zattVe, I 
oz. of magnesia, 6 drs. and of iron, highly cal- 
cined, 5 di-s. Proceed as with the others. 
White opaqne glass, J\'o. 1. 

Take of the composition for hard glass. No. 1 or 
C, 10 11)3. of horn, ivory, or hone, calcined i)er- 
fectly white, 1 11). Proceed as with the others. 
" Paste of an opaque -whiteiicss, j^'o. 8. 

Take of the composition. No. 3 or 4, 10 lbs. and 
make the same addition as to the above. 
Glass of an opaque -whiteness formed by arsenic, 
jA'o. 3. 

Take of flint gla-ss 10 jiounds, and of very white 
arsenic, 1 pound. Powder and mix them thorough- 
ly, b)" grinding them together, and then fuse them 
with a moderate heat till tlie)' be well incorporated, 
but avoid liquefying them more than to make a per- 
fect union. 

This glass has been made at a considerable manu- 
factory near London, in great quantities, and has not 
'only been formed into a variety of dift'ereiit kinds 
of vessels, but, being very white and fusible witli 
a moderate heat, has been reucii used, as a white 
ground, for enamel in dial plates, and other pieces 
wliich have not occasion to go several tiuies into 
the (ire to be finished. It will not, however, bear 
repeated burnings, nor a strong heat continued for 
any length of tin)e, when applied to tliis purpose, 
without becoming transparent, to which likewise 
the smoke of a coal fire will also greatly contri- 
bute; but it answers the end very well in many 
cases, though even in those, enamel of the same 
degree of whiteness would be preterable, as this 
is always brittle, and of less firm and tenacious 
texture. 

Uard glass, or paste, formed by calx of tin or an- 
timony, JVo, 4. 

Take of any of the compositions f.)r hard glass, 
or pastes 10 pounils, of calcined tin (commonly 
called putty), or of antiinony, or tin calcined by 
means of nitre, l^lbs. ; mix them well by grinding 
them togethei', and then fuse thera with a mode- 
rate heat. 

The glass of this kind ma<le with the composi- 
tion for pastes, dill'ers in not'ning from white ena- 
mel, but in the proportion of the calx of tin and 
antimony. 

iHemi-transparent white glass and paste resembling 
the opal, .7Vo. 5. 

Take of any of the compositions for hard glass, 
or paste, 10 pounds, of horn, bone, or ivory, cal- 
cine<i to a perfect whiteness, half a pound. Pro- 
ceed as with the re.st. 

This white hard glass is much the same with the 
German glass formerly brought here in porringers, 
cream pots, vinegar cruets, and other such pieces, 
of which we fre(juently meet with the remains. 
Fine red glass resembling the ruby, JVo. 1. 

Take of tlie hard glass, No. 1 or '2, 1 pound, of 
the calx caifei, or gold prepared by precipitation 
with tin, 3 drachms. Powder tlie glass, and grind 
the calx of gold afterwards with it in a glass, flint, 
or ag.ate mortar, ai»d then fuse them together. 

This may be made of a stronger or more diluted 
colour, by varying the proportion of the gold, in 
adjusting which, proper regard should be had to 
the application of the glass when made; for where 
this glass is set in rings, bracelets, or other close 
work, where foils can be used, a great saving may 
be made with regard to the colour of it, without 
much injury to the effect; but for ear-rings, or 
other pui'poses where the work is set transparent, 
a full strong colour should be given, wliich m^y be 
effected by "the propovlious directed in this cora- 
positiouk 



Paste resembling the ruby, A'o. 2. 
T.tke of the paste. No. 3 or 4, I lb. and of calx 
caffei, or precipitation of gold by tin, 2 drachms. 
Proceed in the mixture as with the above. 

This will be equally beautiful with the above, 
and defective oidy in softness; but as that greatly 
takes away the value for some purposes, such as is 
iip|)ropriated to them may be tinged in a cheaper 
manner by the follow ing means. 

A cheaper paste resembling the ruby, JVo. 3. 

Take of the composition for paste. No. 3 or 4, 
half a pound, of glass of antimony, half a pound, 
and of the precipitation of gold by tin, 1 drachm 
and a half Proceed as with the others. 

This will be considerably cheaper, and will have 
much the same effect, except that it recedes more 
from the crimson to the orange. 

Hard glass resembling the garnet, JsTo. 4. 

Take of llie composition for hard glass, No. 1 or 
2, 2 jtnunds, of glass of antimony, 1 jjound, of 
magnesia, and of the precipitate of gold by tin, 
each, 1 drachm. 

This composition is very beautiful, but too ex- 
pensive, on account of the gold, for the imitation 
of garnets for common purposes; on which account 
tlie following may be substituted. 

Hard glass resembling the garnet, JVo. 5, 

Take of the composition. No. 1 or 2, 2 lbs. ot 
the glass of antimony, 2 lbs. and of magnesia, 2 dr. 

If the colour be found too tiark and purple in 
either this or the preceding comjjosition, the pro- 
portion of magnesia must be diminished. 

Paste of the colour of garnet, JYo. 6. 

Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
and proceed as with the above. 
Hard glass resembling the vinegar ganiet, JSTo. 7. 

Take of the composition. No. 1 or 2, two 
pounds, of glass of antimony, 1 pound, of iron, 
liighly calcined, half an ounce. Mix the iron with 
the uncoloured glass, and fuse them together till 
the mass be perfectly transparent, then add the 
glass of antimony, powdered, stirring the mixture 
with the end of a tobjicco pipe, and continue thern 
in the heat till the whole be perfectly i'ncorporated. 
Paste resembling the vinegar garnet, A o. 8. 

Take of the composition fbr paste, No. 3 or 4, 
and proceed as with the foregoing. 

Fictitious or counterfeit lapis lazuli. 

Take of any of the preceding compositions for 
hard glass, or paste, 10 pounds, of calcined bones, 
horn, or ivory, three quarters of a pound, of zatFre, 
1 ounce. Fuse the uncoloured composition with 
the zaffi-e and magnesia, *all a very deep transpa- 
rent blue glass be produced. The mass being 
cold, powder it, and mix it with the calcined mat- 
ter, by grinding them together. After which fuse 
them wTth a moderate heat till they be thoroughly 
incorporated, and then form the melted mass into 
cakes, by pouring it ou a clean bright plate of cop- 
per or iron. 

./Inoiher, 

If it be desired to have it veined with gold, it 
may be done by mixing the gold powder, with an 
eqiial weigiit of calcined borax, and tempering 
them with oil of spike, by which mixture, the 
Cakes being painted with such veins as are desired, 
they must be put into a furnace of a moderate heat, 
and the gold will be cemented to the glass as firm- 
ly as if the veins had been natural. 
Another. 

If the counterfeit lapis lazuli be desired of a 
lighter hue, the quantity of zaffre and magnesia 
must be diminished; or, if it be required tn be 
more transparent, that of the calcined iioni, bone, 
or ivory, should be lessened. 
Another. 

Instead of zaiTre, where that cannot be obtained. 



382 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



a proper proportion of smalt may be substituted. 
And in all cases, indeed, it may be a more certain 
■way to form the zaffre and vitrifying ingredients 
into glass alone, and then having powdered them 
•with the calcined bones or horns, infuse them a se- 
cond time, and make them into cakes in the man- 
ner directed; for the fluxing power of the ingredi- 
ents of the glass is so retarded by the calcined 
bone or horn, that it may, in some cases, fail to 
act sufficiently on the zaftVe to vitrify it perfectly. 
To make glass resembling red cornelian. 

Take of the composition for hard glass, No. I or 
2, 2 pounds, of glass of antimon)% 1 pound, of the 
calcined vitriol, called scarlet oker, 2 oz. and of 
magnesia, 1 dr. 

Fuse the glass of antimony and magnesia with 
the other glass first together, and then powder them 
well, and mix them with the scarlet oker, by 
grinding them together, and afterwards fuse the 
mixture with a gentle heat, till they are incorpo- 
rated; but the heat must not be continued longer 
than is absolutely required to form them into a 
vitreous mass. 

If it be desired to haye the composition more 
transparent, part of the red oker must be omitted. 
Paste resembling the red cornelian. 

Take of the composition for paste. No. 1 or 2, 
2 poun<is, and proceed as with the above. 

Hard glass resembling white cornelian. 

Take of the composition for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, 2 pounds, of yellow oker, well washed, 2 
drachms, and of calcined bones, each 1 ounce. 
Mix them well by grinding them together, and 
fuse them with a gentle heat till the several ingre- 
dleats be well incorporated in a vitreous mass. 



Paste resembling -white comehan. 

Take of the composition for pastes. No. 1 or 2 
1 pound, and proceed as with the foregoing. 
Hard glass or paste resembling the turquoise stone. 

Take of the composition for blue glass or paste, 
No. 7 or 8, (being those resembling the eagle ma- 
rine) 10 pounds, of calcined bone, horn, or ivory, 
half a pound. Powder and mix them well, and 
then fuse them in a moderate heat till they be 
thoroughly incorporated. 

If the colour be not so deep as may be desired, 
a small proportion of smalt may be added. 
J}roiv7i Venetian glass -with gold spangles. 

Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 2, 
and the composition for paste, No. 1, each i 
pounds, and of highly calcined iron, one ounce. 
Mix them well, and fuse them till the iron be per- 
fectly vitrified, and have tinged the glass of a deep 
transparent yellow brown colour. Powder this 
glass, and add to it two pounds of glass of anti- 
mony, being powdered, and mix them well, by 
grinding them together. Take part of this mix- 
ture, and rub into it fourscore or one hundred 
leaves of the counterfeit leaf of gold, commonly 
called Uiuch gold; and, when the parts of the gold 
seem sufticiently divided, mix the powder con- 
taining it with the other part of the glass. Fuse 
tlie whole then with a moderate heat, till the pow- 
der runs into a vitreous mass, fit to be wrought into 
any of the figures or vessels into which it is usually 
formed; but avoid a perfect liquefaction, because 
that destroys, in a short time, the equal dilfusiorj 
of the spangles, and vitrifies, at least, part of the 
matter of which they are composed, converting 
the whole into a kind of transparent olive-colour- 
ed glass. 



laXSCEIiLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



7b make a road on J\t 'Mams^s system. 

Stone is to be procured in some form in almost 
every part of the country, and a road made of 
small broken stone to tlie depth often inches, will 
be smooth, solid, and durable. 

The size of stones for a road should be that of 
a hen's egg, or half a pound weight. It must be 
in due proportion to the space occupied by a wheel 
of ordinary dimensions on a smooth level surface: 
this point of contact will be found to be longitu- 
dinally, about an inch; and every piece of stone 
put into a road, which exceeds an inch in any of 
its dimensions, is mischievous. 

In repairing an old road no addition of materials 
is to be brought upon it, unless in any part it be 
found that there is not a quantity of clean stone 
equal to ten inches in thickness. 

The stone already in the road is to be loosened 
up and broken, so as no piece shall exceed six 
ounces in weight. The road is then to be laid as 
flat as possible, a rise of three inches from the 
centre to tlie side is sufficient for a road thirty feet 
wide. 

The stones when loosened in the road are to be 
gatheretl oft' by means of a strong heavy rake, 
with teeth two inches and a half in length, to the 
side of the road, and there broken, and on no ac- 
count are stones to be broken on the road. 

When tlie great stones have been removed, and 



none left in the road exceeding six ounces, the 
road is to be put in shape, and a rake employed 
to smooth the surface, which will at the same time 
bring to the surface the remaining stone, and will 
allow the dirt to go down. 

When the road is so prepared, the stones that 
have been broken by the side of the road are then 
to be carefully spread on it — not to be laid on it 
in shovels-full, but scattered over the surface, one 
shovel-full following another, and spreading over 
a considerable space. , 

Only a small piece of road should be lifted at 
once; five men in a gang should be set to lift it all 
across: two men should continue to pick up and 
rake off the large stones, and to form the road for 
receiving the broken stone, the other three should 
break stones — the broken stone to be laid on as 
soon as the piece of road is prepared to receive it, 
and then break up another piece; two or three 
yards at one lift is enough. 

The proportioning the work among the five 
men must of course be regulated by the nature of 
the I'oad; when there are many very large stones, 
the three breakers may not be able to keep pace 
with the two men employed in lifting and forming, 
and when there are few large stones the contrai-y 
may be the case; in all this, the surveyor must 
judge and direct. 

liut, while it is recommended to lift and relay 



mSCELLANEOUS. 



J83 



roads which have been made with lar^e stone, or 
with large stone mixed with clay, chalk, or other 
mischievous materials, there are many cases in 
which it would be hisjhly unprofitable to lift and 
relay a road, even if the materials should have 
been originally too large. 

When additional stone is wanted on a road that 
has consolidated by use, the old hardened surface 
of the road is to be loosened with a pick, in order 
to make the fresh materials unite with the old. 

The only proper method of breaking stones, 
both for eS'ect and economy, is by persons sitting; 
the stones are to be placed in small heaps, and 
"women, boys, or old men, past hard labour, must 
sit down with small hammers and break them, so 
as none shall exceed six ounces in weight. 

Every road is to be made of broken stone, with- 
out mixture of earth, clay, chalk, or any other 
matter that will imbibe water and be affected with 
frost; nothing is to be laid on the clean stone on 
pretence of binding; broken stone will combine by 
its own angles into a smooth solid surface that can- 
not be affected by vioissitudes of weather, or dis- 
placed by the action of wheels, which will pass 
over it without a jolt, and consequently without 
injury. 

Flint makes an excellent road, if due attention 
be paid to the size; but, from want of that atten- 
tion, many of the flint roads are rough, loose, and 
expensive. 

Limestone, when properly prepared and applied, 
makes a smooth solid road, and becomes consoli- 
dated sooner tlian any other material; but from its 
nature is not the most lasting. 

Whinstone is the most durable of all materials; 
and, wherever it is well and judiciously applied, 
the roads are comparatively good and cheap. 

The pebbles of Shropshire and Staffordshire are 
of a hard substance, and only require a prudent 
application to be made good road materials. 
To preserve inilk. 
Provide bottles which must be perfectly clean, 
sweet and dry; draw the milk from the cow into 
the bottles, and as they are filled, immediately cork 
them well up, and fasten the corks with pack 
thread or wire. Then spread a little straw ou the 
bottom of a boiler, on which place bottles with 
straw between them, until the boiler contains a 
sufficient quantity. Fill it up with cold water; 
heat the water, and as soon as it begins to boil, 
draw the fire, and let the whole gradually cool. 
When quite cold take out the bottles, and pack 
them with straw or saw-dust in hampers, and stow 
them in the coolest part of the house or ship. 
Milk preserved in this manner, although eighteen 
months in the bottles, will be as sweet as when 
first milked from the cow. 

To make a domestic telegraph. 
This instrument consists of two dials, divided 
in the same manner, the hands of which move at 
the same time. One of these dials is placed in 
the master's room; the other is placed where the 
servant is waiting. Each of the divisions, which 
can be multiplied at will, represents an order which 
is indicated by a letter, or by any other sign agreed 
upon. The master places the hand ot his dial 
upon the sign ot' the order which he wishes to 
transmit, and immediately the signal is repeated 
ia tlie servant's room. 

To construct barometers. 
The tubes intended for barometers ought to be 
sealed hermetically on both ends, immediately af- 
ter they are made at the glass-house, and to be 
kept in this slate until they are fitted up. Without 
this precaution, they are apt to be sullied with dust, 
moisture, and other impurities, which it is after- 
vards almost impossible to remove on account o*' 



the smallness of their diameters. When they are 
opened, which may be done with a file, care should 
be taken not to breathe into them, nor to wash them 
with spirit of wine, or other fluid, experience hav- 
ing proved lliat in tubes so treated, the mercury 
always stands a little below its proper level; this 
is owing to the adhesion of a little of the s))irit of 
wine to the sides of the tube. When cleaning ij 
necessary, it must be done with a fine linen ragj 
that has been previously well dried. 

The tubes ought to be as perfectly cylindrical 
as possible, though, in some cases, this is not ab- 
solutely necessary. They should be about 3i 
inches in length, and the diameter of their bore 
should be at least 2 or 2J lines, otherwise the 
friction, and the capillary action, will be apt to 
aftect the free motion of the mercuiy. The glass 
should not be very thick, as it is apt in that case 
to break, when the mercury is boiled in the tube; 
half a line is sufficient. 

Tlie mercury ought to be perfectly pure and free 
from all foreign metals. The best is what has 
been recently revived from cinnabar; the commoa 
mercury of the shops being often adulterated in- 
tentionally with tin, lead, and bismuth, stands at 
various heights in the tube, according to the nature 
and quantity of the foreign substances M'ith which 
it is amalgamated. 

To purify the mercury. 

For this purpose, take a pound of ciimabar, ancj 
reduce it to powder: mix it well with five or si.i 
ounces of iron or steel filings; and, having put the 
mixture into an iron retort, expose the whole to 
the heat of a reverberatory furnace; the mercury 
will soon pass over in a state of great purity, anii 
may be obtained by adapting to the retort an 
earthen receiver, which has been previously half 
filled with water. 

Process of filling the tube. 

Before being well introduced into the tube, the 
mercury ought to be well heated, or even boiled 
in a glazed earthen pipkin; in order to drive off 
any moisture which may adhere to it, but this will 
be unnecessary if the mercury has been recently 
revived. 

The mercury ought likewise to be boiled in the 
tube to expel any air or moisture which may still 
remain attached to it, or to the inside of the tube. 
This is done in the following manner: Pour as 
much mercury into the tube as will make it stand 
to the length of three or four inches; and introduce 
a long wire of iron to stir it during the boiling. 
Expose the mercury in the tube gradually to the 
heat of a chafing-dish of burning charcoal; and 
when it begins to boil, stir it gently with the iron 
wire, to facilitate the disengagement of the bubbles 
of the air. When the first portion of the mercury 
has been sufficiently boiled, and all the air extri- 
cated, I'emove the tube from the chafing-dish, and 
allow the whole to cool, taking care not to bring 
it into contact with any cold substance. Introduce 
an equal quantity of mercury, and treat it in the 
same manner, withdrawing the wire a little, so 
that it may not reach below the upper part of the 
mercury already freed from air. The chafing- 
dish must also be placed immediately under iha 
mercury which has been last poured in. Repeat 
the same process with eacli successive portion of 
mercury, till the tube is filled, always applying the 
heat veiy cautiously; and be equally careful in al- 
lowing it to cool, before a Iresh portion of mer- 
cury is poured in. 

To construct JUr Troughtoii's improved marine 
barometer. 

The tube consists of two parts, joined together 
about five inches below the lop: the bore in the 
upper part being about 4-lUths of au inch, and in 



584 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the loM'er part only 2-1 OOtlis. By this construc- 
tion, partly from the difterence of the hores, and 
partly from the greater friction in tlie lower end, 
the motion of the mercm;y is so niucli retarde(l, 
that any impulse given by the ship, having; a ten- 
dency to raise it, will scarcely have ])roduced a 
sensible effect, before an opposite impulse will be 
given, liavina; a tendency to depress it. To coun- 
teract more effectually liie elTocts of the ship's mo- 
lions, the instnmient is suspended in gymbals. 
Tlie whole is attached to the side of the cabin by 
two tubes of brass, wbicli slide one within the 
other, and render tlie instrument capable of beina; 
suspended at different distances from the place of 
support, that the bottom of it may not sti-ike the 
sides of tlie cabin, duriucf any heavj' rolling of tlie 
vessel. The inner tube carries the gymbals. Tiie 
external frame of tlse barometer is a cylindrical 
tube of wood, on which slides a brass socket; and 
in this is inserted the innermost pair of pivots of 
the gymbals, or universal jjiuts, which furnishes 
the iustrument with a moveable point of suspen- 
sion. The top is terminated with a knob of brass, 
of a weight neaily equal to tliat of the mercury, 
hie. at the lower end. Willi respect to the posi- 
tion of the i)oint of suspension, no general rule can 
be given. It is obvious, however, that thoughtbis 
point were accurately determined for one particu- 
lar height of the mercury, it would not correspond 
to every othci'. By the ingenious contrivance of 
Mr Trougliton, of placing a knob at the lop, as a 
counterpoise to the weight of the mercury, the 
centre of gravity of the whole v.'ill be about the 
middle; and if the instrument wei-e of the same 
specific gravity throughout, the point of suspension 
that would jiroduce the smallest oscillations in the 
mercury, would be about l-3d of the length of 
tlie instrument from the top, considering the lower 
part as a fixed point. But as this is not strictly the 
case, the ])oint of suspensrou is best ascertained by 
experiment. The graduation is on two scales of 
ivor}', about four inches long, for the reception of 
which, two opposite quarters of the cylindrical 
frame are crossed out through that length, their 
planes pointing towards the centre of the tube. 
The index is a very light one, and slides upon the 
glass tube without touching any other part. At 
the bottom is the usual screw, which pressing up 
the leather bag, prevents the mercury from mov- 
ing when the instrument is carried from one place 
to another. 

Fall renh eit 's hydrometer . 
This consists of a hollow bail, with a counter- 
poise below, and a very slender stem above, termi- 
nating in a small dish. The middle or half lengtli 
of the stem is distinguished by a fine line across. 
Ill this instrument every division of the stem is re- 
jected, and it is immersed in all experiments to 
the middle of the stem, by placing proper weights 
in the little dish above. Then as the p.u-t immers- 
ed is constantly of tlie same magnitude, and the 
whole weight of the hydrometer is known, this 
last weight added to the weights in the dish will be 
equal to the weight of fluids displaced by the in- 
strument, as all writers on hydrostatics prove; 
and, accordingly, the specific gravities of the com- 
mon forms of the tables will be had by the follow- 
ing proportion: As the whole weiglit of the Iiydro- 
metc'r and its load, when adjusted in distilled wa- 
ter, is to the number of 1000, Sec. so is the whole 
■weight when adjusted in any other fluidtothe num- 
berexpressing its specific gra\ity. 

As the operation of weighing eipial quantities of 
corrosive volatile fluids, to determine llieir specific 
gravities, requires considerable attention and stea- 
diness, and also a good balance, the lloating instru- 
xneut, called the hydrometer, has always been es- 
teemed by philosophers, as well as men of busiueus, I 



To constntct FahrehhetCs thermometer. 

Fahrenheit's thermometer consists of a slender 
cylindrical tube, and a small longitudinal bulb. 
j To the side of the tube is annexed a sc;de divided 
into Coo parts, beginning with that of the severe 
cold experienced in Iceland in I'OO, or that pro- 
duced by surrounding the bulb of the thermometer 
with a mixture of snow or beaten ice, and sal am- 
moniac or sea salt. This is marked at the begin- 
ning of the scale with O; the point at which the 
mercury begins to boil is conceived to show the 
greatest degree of heat, and is made the limits of 
the scale. The distance between these two points 
is divided into 600 equal parts or degrees; and by 
trials it is found that the mercury stands at 32 of 
these divisions, when water just begins to freeze, 
or snow or ice just begins to thaw; it is llierefors 
called the degree of the freezing point. When 
the tube is immersed in boiling water, the mercury 
rises to 212, wliich, therefore, is the boiling point, 
and is just ISO degrees above the former or freez- 
ing point. However, the ]ireseiit method of makt 
ing the scale of these thermometers, which is the 
sort in most common use, is first to immerge the 
bulb of tfie thermometer in ice or snow, just be- 
ginning to thaw, and mark the place where the 
mercury stands, with the place where the mercury 
stands in the tube, which mark with the number 
212, exceeding the former by 180; dividing, there- 
fore, the intermediate space into 180 equal parts, 
will give the scale of the thermometer, and which 
may al"terwards be continued upwards and down- 
wards with pleasure. 

'To construct a common thermometer. 

In this thermometer the whole bulb of quicksil.^ 
ver, when immerged in boiling water, is conceiv- 
ed to be divided into 100,000 [larts; and from this 
one fixed point the various degrees of heat, eitlier 
above or below it, are marked in those parts of 
the scale by the various contractions or expan- 
sions of the qnitksilver, in all the imaginable va- 
rieties of heat; some make the integer 100,000 
parts at freezing water, and from thence complete 
the condensations of the quicksilver in those parts; 
as all the common observations of the weather are 
thereby expressed by numbers increasing as the 
heat increases, instead of decreasii-g or counting 
the contrary way. However, it will not be very 
easy to determine exactly all the divisions from 
the alterations of the bulk of the contained fluid. 
And, besides, as glass itself is dilated by heat, 
though in a less proportion than quicksilver, it is 
only the excess of the dilatation of the combined 
fluid above that of the glass that is observed; and 
therefore if different kinds of the glass be differ- 
ently alfected by a given degree of heat, this will 
make the seeming difference in the dilatations of 
the quicksilver in the thermometers constructed on 
the Newtonian principle. 

To adjust the fixed points of thermometers. 
In adjusting the freezing, as well as the boiling 
point, the quicksilver in the tulie ought to be kept 
in the same heat as that in the ball. When the 
freezing point is placed at a considerable distance 
from the ball, the pounded ice should be piled to 
such a height above the bail, that the error which 
can arise from the quicksilver in the remaining 
part of the tube not being heated equally with that 
in the ball, shall be very small, or the observed 
point must be corrected on that account according 
to the following table: — 

Heat of the air. Correction. 



42"^ 
52 
62 
72 
82 



,00087 
,00174 
,00261 
,00348 
,00435 



MISCELIANEOUS. 



The correction in llie table is expressed in 1000 
parts of the distance between the tVeezinp; point 
anil the snrface of the ice: e. g. if the freezing 
point stands seven inches above the surface of the 
ice and llie lieat of the room is 62, the point of 3'2° 
should he placed 7x00221, or 018 of an inch low- 
er than (lie observed point. A diagonal scale will 
facilitate ibis correction. In trvins; the heat of the 
liquors care should be taken tiiat the tinicksilver in 
the tube of the iherniomeler be heated to the same 
degree as that in the ball; or if this cannot be done 
convenientlj-, the observed heat should be correct- 
cd on that account. 

Portable barometer. 

This instrument consists in general of a tube of 
the usual length, passing through the upper parts 
of a wooden cistern, to which it is glued, and the 
bottom of which is made of leather. The tube 
being filled with mercury, which has been previ- 
ously well jjurged of air, and placed in a proper 
^/osiiion, the su|)erfiuous n»ercnry descends into 
live cistern, and assumes a level in the tube cor- 
responding with the weight of the external air. 
The surfiice of the mercury in the cistern is ad- 
justed to the same level by a screw, which presses 
more or less against the tlexihle leather at the bot- 
tom, and raises or depresses it at pleasure. From 
the line of this level, which is called zero, the scale 
commences and is reckoned upwards to the height 
of about 32 inches; the actual divisions of the scale 
begin at about 15 inches. 

'J'o make portable glue. 

Take one pound of the best glue, boil and strain 
it very clear; boil likewise four ounces of isinglass, 
put it in a double glue-pot, with half a pound of 
fine brown sugar, and boil it pretty thick;tben pour 
it into moulds; when cold, cut aiid dry them in 
small pieces. This glue is very useful to draughts- 
men, arcliitects, &c. as it immediately dilutes in 
•warm water, and fastens the paper without the 
process of damping. 

To make glue that will resist moisture. 

Dissolve gum sandarac and mastic, of each two 
ounces, in a pint of spirit of wine, adding about an 
ounce of clear turpentine. Then take equal parts 
of isinglass and parchment glue, made according 
to the directions in the preceding article, and hav- 
ing beaten the isinglass into small bits, and reduced 
the glue to the same state, pour the solution of the 
gums upon them, and melt the whole in a vessel 
■well covered, avoiding so great a heat as that of 
boiling water. When melted, strain the glue 
through a coarse linen cloth, and then put it again 
over the fire, adding about an ounce of powdered 
glass. 

This preparation may be best managed by hang- 
ing the vessel in boiling water, which will prevent 
the matter burning to the vessel, or the spirit of 
•wine from taking fire, and indeed it is better to 
use the same method for all the evaporations of 
nicer glues and sizes; but, in that case, less water 
than the proportion directed, should be added to 
the materials. 

Another method. - 

A very strong glue, that will resist water, may 
be also made by adding half a pound of common 
glue, or isinglass glue, to two quarts of skimmed 
milk, and then evaporating the mixture to the due 
consistence of the glue. 

'Jo make parchment glue. 

Take one pound of parchment, and boil it in six 
quarts of water, till the quantity be reduced to one 
quart; strain off the fluid from the dregs, and then 
boil it again till it be of the consistence of glue. 

The same may be done with glovers' cuttings of 
leather, which make a colourless glue, if not biU'nt 
ill the evaporation of the water 
2 Y 



.'J verif strong compound glue. 

Take common glue in very small or thin bits, and 
isinglass glue: infuse them in as much sjjirit of 
wine as will cover tliem, for at least twenty-four 
hours. Then melt the whole together, and, while 
they are over the fire, add as much powdered chalk ..^ 
as will render them an opaque white. -vi 

The infusion in the spirit of wine has been di- 
rected in the recipes given for glue; but the remark 
on the use of it in one of the preceding articles 
will hold good also in this, and the mixture may be 
made with water only. 

To make compound glue. 

Take very fine flour, mix it with white of eggs, 
isinglass, and a little yeast; mingle the materials, 
beat them well together; spread them, the batter be- 
ing made thin with gum-water, on even tin plates, 
and dry them in a stove, then cut them out for use. 
To colour them, tinge the paste with Brazil, or 
vermilion for red: indigo or verditer, &c. for blue; 
saflVon, turmeric, or gamboge, )kc. for yellow. 
To make isinglass glue. 

This is made by dissolving beaten isinglass in 
water by boiling, and having strained it through a 
coarse linen cloth, evaporating it again ,to such a 
consistence, that, being cold, the glue will be per- 
fectly hard and dry. 

A great improvement is made in this glue by 
adding spirit of wine or brandy after it is strained, 
and then renewing the evaporation till it gains the 
due consistence. 

To make isinglass size. 

This may also be prepared in the manner above 
direr.ied for the glue, by increasing the proportion 
of the water for dissolving it, and the same holds 
good of parchment size. A better sort of the com- ■- 
raon size may be likewise made bj' treating cut- 
tings of glovers' leather in the same manner. 
To make Jiour paste. 

Paste is formed principally of wheaten flour 
boiled in water till it be of a glutinotis or viscid 
consistence. It may be prepared with those ingre- 
dients simply for common purposes; but when it 
is used by bookbinders, or for paper hangings to 
rooms, it is usual to mix a fourth, fifth, or sixth of 
the weight of the flour of powdered resin; and 
where it is wanted still more tenacious, gum ara- 
ble, or any kind of size may be added. 
- To make Clunese paste. 

Mix together bullock's blood and quick lime, in 
the proportion of one pound of the latter to ten 
pounds of the former. It becomes a stiff" jelly, ir: 
which state it is sold to the consumers, who beat 
it down with an addition of water, into a state suf- 
ficiently fluid for use. 

To -weld tortoise shell. 

Provide a pair of pincers, the tongs of which 
will rofich four inches beyond the rivet. Now file 
the tortoise shell clean to a lap joint, carefully ob- 
serving that there be no grease about it. Wet the 
joint with water; apply the pincers hot, following 
them with water, and the shell will be found to be 
joined, as if it were originally the same piece. 
To make cement for metals. 

Take of gum mastic, 10 grains, rectified spirit 
of wine, 2 drachms. Add 2 ounces of strong isin- 
glass glue, made with brandy, and 10 grains of thei 
true gum ammoniac. Dissolve all together, and 
keep it stopped in a phial. When intended to be 
used, set it in warm water. 

^Mahogany coloured cement. 

Melt together two ounces of bees' w.ax and half 
an ounce of Indian red, and a small quantity of 
yellow ochre, to bring it to the proper colour. 
To make red sealing wax. 

Take of shell-lac, well powdcre<l, two parts, of 
resin and vennJion, powdered, each, 1 part. Mis 

2i/ 



38C 



UNl^^:RSAL receipt book. 



them well together and melt them over a gentle 
lire, and when tlie ingredients seem thoroughly 
incorporated, work the wax into sticks. Where 
shell-lae cannot be procured, seed-lac ma)' be sub- 
stituted for it. 

The quantity of vermilion may be diminished 
without any iiijui-y to the sealing wax, where it is 
not required to he of the highest and brightest red 
colour; and the resin should be of the whitest kind, 
as that improves the effect of the vermilion. 
Black sealing -wax. 
Proceed as directed for the red wax, only instead 
of tne vermilion substitute the best ivory black. 
Green sealing -wax. 
Proceed as in the above; only, instead of ver- 
milion, use verdigris powdered;* or, wliere the 
colour is required to be bright, distilled or crystals 
of verdigris. 

Blue sealing -wax. 
As the above; only changing the vermilion for 
smalt well powdered; or, for a light blue, verditer 
may be used; as may also, with more advantage, 
a mixture of both. 

Yello-w seali?ig -wax. 
As the above; only substituting masticot; or, 
■where a bright colour is desired, turpeth mineral, 
instead of the vermilion. 

Purple sealing wax. 
As the red; only changing half the quantity of 
vermilion for an equal or greater proportion of 
smalt, according as the purple is desired to be 
bluer or redder. 

Uncoloured soft sealing -wax.^ 
Take of bees' wax, 1 lb. turpentine, 3 oz. and 
olive oil, 1 oz. 

Place them in a proper vessel over the lire, and 
let them boil for some time, and the wax will be then 
fit to be formed into rolls or cakes for use. 
Med, black, green, blue, yelloiv and purple, soft 
sealing -wax. 
Add to the preceding composition, while boiling, 
an ounce or more of any ingredients directed above 
for colouring the hard sealing wax; and stir the 
matter well about, till the colour be thoroughly 
mixed with the wax. 

The proportion of the colouring ingredients may 
be increased, if the colour produced by that here 
given be not found strong enough. 

To cure smoky cliimneys. 
The common causes of smoky chimneys are 
either that the wind is too much let in above at the 
mouth of the shaft, or else that the smoke is stifled 
below; they may also proceed from there being too 
little room in the vent, particularly where several 
open into the same funnel. The situation of the 
house may likewise affect them, especially if back- 
ed by higher ground or higher buildings. 

The best method of cure is to can-y from the air 
a pipe under the floor and opening under the fire; 
or when higlier objects are the cause, to fix a move- 
able cowl at the top of the chimney. 

In regard to smoky chimneys, a few facts and 
cautions may be useful; and a very simple remedj' 
may often render the calling in of masons and 
bricklayers unnecessary. 

Observe that a northern aspect often produces a 
smoky chimney. 

A single chimney is apter to smoke, than when 
It forms part of a stack. 

Straight funnels seldom draw well. 
Large fire-places are apt to smoke, particularly 
when the aperture of the funnel does not corres- 
pond in size; for this a temporary remedy may be 
tound in opening a door or window — a permanent 
cure by diminishing tlie lower apertur°. 

When a smoky chimney is so incorrigible as to 
retjuire a constant admission of f.jsh air iuto the 



room, the best mode is to introduce a pipe, one of 
whose .'ipertures shall be in the open air, and thea 
other under the grate; or openings may be mad«< 
near the top of tlie apartment, if lofty, without 
any inconvenience even to persons sitting close by 
the fire. 

This species of artificial ventilation will always 
be found necessaiy for comfort where gas is used 
internally, whether a fire is lighted or not. 

Where a cliimney only smokes when a fire is 
first lighted, this may be guarded against hv allow- 
ing the fire lo kindle gradually; or more |)romptly 
by laying any inflammable substance, such as shav- 
ings, on the top of the grate; the rapid combus- 
tion of which will warm the air in the cliimney, 
and give it a tendency upwards, before any smoke 
is produced from the fire itself. If old stove-grates 
are apt to smoke, they may be improved by setting 
the stove further back. If that fails, contract the 
lower orifice. 

In cottages, the shortness of the funnel or chim- 
ney may produce smoke; in which case the lower 
orifice must be contracted as small as possible by 
means of an upright register. 

If a kitchen chimney overpowers that of the par- 
lour, as is often the case in small houses, apply to 
each chimney a free admission of air, until the evil 
ceases. 

When a chimney is filled with smoke, not of its 
own formation, but from the funnel next to it, an 
easy i-emedy offers in covering each funnel with a 
conical top, or earthen crock, not cylindrical, but 
a frustrum of a cone; by means of which the two 
openings are separated a few inches, and tlie cold 
air, or the gusts of wind no longer force the smoka 
down with them. 

If these remedies fail, it will be generally found 
that the chimney only smokes when the wind is ii. 
a particular quarter, connected with the positiou 
of some higher building, or a hill, or gro.ve of 
trees. lu such cases the common turn-cap, as 
made by tinmen, and ironmongers, will generally 
be found fully adequate lo the end proposed. A 
case has occurred of curing a smoky chimney ex- 
posed to the N. W. wind, and commanded by a 
lofty building on the S. E. by tlie following con- 
trivance. 

A painted tin cap of a conical form was sus- 
pended by a ring and swivel, so as to swing over 
the mouth of the cjiimney-pot by means of an 
arched strap or bar of iron nailed on each side of 
the chimney. When a gust of wind laid this cap 
(which^from its resemblance in form and use to au 
umbrella, is called a paravent or wind guard,) 
close to the pot on one side, it opened a wider 
passage for the escape of the smoke on the oppo- 
site side, wliichever way the wind came; while 
rain, hail, &c. were eftectually prevented from de- 
scending the flue. 

To clean chimneys. 

The top of each chimney should be furnished 
with a pot somewhat in the shape of a bell, under- 
neath the centre of which should be fixed a pulley, 
witli a cliain of sufRcient lengtli for both ends to 
be fastened, when not in use, to nails or pins in the 
chimney, out of sight, but within reach from 
be;low. One or both of these ends should be 
adapted to the reception of a brush of an appro- 
priate construction; and tiius chimneys may be 
swept as often as desired, by servants, with very 
little additional (rouble. 

To extingtush a chimney on fire. 

Shut the doors, and windows, throw water on 
the fire in the grate, and then stop up the bottoiu 
of the chimney. 

Another method. 

The mephitic vapour produced by throwing s 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



387 



hiindrul of flour of sulphur on the hurning coals, 
where a chimney is on fire, will immediately ex- 
tinguish the flames. 

To cure dry rot in timbei: 
Satui-ate the wood in a weak solution of cop- 
peras, for joists, beams, rafters, and floorings; or 
soak tlie wood in lime-water, snfl'ering it to dry, 
and tlien apply water, in which there is a weak so- 
lution of vitriolic acid; or was.h it with a strong 
solution of potash, then with pyroligneous acid, 
in which tl>e oxyde of lead or iron has been dis- 
solved; and finally, with alum water. 

A current of air under a floor will always pre- 
vent the di-y rot, and stop it when it hascommence<I. 
In boarding kitchens and other rooms on the 
basement storj', the planks should be steeped in a 
strong solution of vitriol or alum, and when they 
are dried, the side next to the earth should receive 
a coat of tar, or common paint. 

To present polished irons from rust. 
Polished iron-work may be preserved from rust 
by a mixture not very expensive, consisting of 
copal varnish intimately mixed with as much olive 
oil as will give it a degree of greasiness, a(hling 
Uiereto nearly as much spirit of turpentine as of 
Tarnish. The cast iron-work is best preserved by 
rubbing it with black-lead. 

But where rust has begun to make its appearance 
on grates or fire irons, apply a mixture of tripoli, 
with half bts quantity of sulphur, intimately min- 
gled on a marble slab, and laid on witli a piece of 
soft leather: or emery and oil may be applied witli 
excellent eflecl; not laid on in the usual slovenly 
Way, but with a spongy piece of the fig-tree fiUly 
saturated with the mixture. This will not only 
clean but polish, and render the use of whiting 
unnecessary. 

To preserve brass ornaments. 
Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lackered, may 
be cleaned in the same way, and a fine colour may 
be given to them by two simple processes. The 
first is to beat sal ammoniac into a fine powder, 
then to moisten it with soft water, rubbing it on 
the ornaments, which must be heated over char- 
coal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting. The 
second is to wash the brass work with roche alum 
boiled in strong ley, in the proportion of an ounce 
to a pwit; when dry it must be rubbed with fine 
tripoli. Elllier of these processes will give to 
brass the brilliancy of gold. 

To remove unpleasant odours. 
"nie unpleasant smell of new paint is best re- 
moved bv lime and atmospheric ventilation: but 
tubs of water placed in the apartment, will act 
more rapidly; with this inconvenience, however, 
that the gloss of the paint will be destroyed. Un- 
pleasant smells from water-closets, or all articles 
of furnitme connected with them, may be modi- 
fied by the application of lime water, to which 
may be added the soap suds that have been used in 
washing, which neutralize the pungently offensive 
salts: a little quick-lime put into a night chair will 
destroy all disagreeable effluvia. 

Aromatic pastiles of the following composition 
mav be burned with great success: take of cam- 
phor, flowers of benzoin, powdered charcoal, pow- 
dered cascarilla bark, powdered Turkey myrrh, 
and powdered nitre, each equal quantities; beat 
them with sjTup sufficient to form a mass, and 
divide into pastiles of a conical shape. They may 
be mixed up with spirit of turpentine (the recti- 
fied oil) or any thing that is inflammable. Syrup 
does best, as it is most adhesive. 
To ventilate rooms. 
To ventilate a room, carry a tin pipe from its 
ceiling a yard above the lop of the room, and 



another from the top through the floor, boring some 
holes in the boards. 

To warm a carriage, or small apartment. 

Convey into it a stone bottle of boiling water, 
or for the feet a single glass bottle of boiled water 
wrapped in flannel. 

'J'o prepare a cheap hortus sicais. 

All tlie smaller plants should be expanded under 
water, in a plate, upon a piece of writing jiaper 
sunk to the bottom. In this state they will assume 
their natural form and position. The paper, with 
the plant upon it, must be withdrawn from tlie 
water gently; and the plant and paper afterwards 
placed betwixt two or three sheets of blotting pa- 
per, and i)ressed with a book or flat board. It is 
then to l)e laid up in a quire of blotting paper, un- 
der pressure, for a dity or two, when, if dry, it 
may be placed permanently upon writing paper. 
To remove bugs, &c. 

The bedsteads ought to be taken down three or 
four limes a year, the screws rubbed with pure 
oil, and a good manual cleaning given to all its 
parts. This plan, which has been slightly noticed 
under the general head of cleanliness, will render 
all poisonous mixtures unnecessary, besides saving 
all the trouble, filtli, and expense consequent upon 
the use of those medicaments so much recommend- 
ed by quacks, bug destroyers, Sec. 
To ilnve aiuay, or prerwnt the approach of cater- 
pillars. 

Wrap up yellow or turpentine soap in paper, or 
place an open bottle containing spirits of turpen- 
tine within the wardrobe. But as the smell of the 
latter may be unpleasant, sprinkle bay leaves, or 
worm-wood, or lavender, or walnut leaves, or rue, 
or black pepper in grains. 

To preserve furs. 

When laying up mufts and tippets for the sum- 
mer, if a tallow candle be placed on or near them, 
all danger of caterpillars will [)e obviated. 

JVuter-proof composition for leather or cloth. ■ 

The new patent water-proof composition con- 
sists of the following materials: — Boil six gallons 
of linseed oil, one pound and a half of rosin, four 
pounds anil a half of red lead, litharge, or any 
other substance usually called dryers, together, 
till tiiey acquire such a consistence as to adhere to 
the fingers in strings when cooled; then remove 
the mixture from the fire, and when suftlcientlj' 
cooled, thin it to the consistence of sweet oil, v^ith 
spirits of turpentine, of which it commo:ily takes 
six gallons. Leave it to settle for a day or two, 
pour off' the liquid from the grounds, and intimate- 
ly mix with it one pound and a half of ivory or 
lamp black, and one pound and a half of Prussian 
blue, ground in linseed oil. The composition is 
then ready to be used on any kind of leather or 
cloth. Stir up the liquid and apply it with a brush 
till an even gloss is produced; hang up the mate- 
rial acted upon till the next day, taking care to 
leave the surface as even as possible, anil proceed 
in the same manner till it has the desired appear- 
ance. 

To preserve clothes. 

As clothes, when laid up for a time, acquire an 
unpleasant odour, which requires considerable ex- 
posure to the atmospheric air, it will be i)revented 
by laying recently made charcoal between the folds 
of the garments; and even when the odour has 
taken place, the charcoal will absorb it. 

To remove stains from mourning dresses. 

Boid a good handful of fig leaves in two quarts 
of water till reduced to a pint. Bombazine, crajjc, 
cloth, &c. need only be rubbed with a sponge dip- 
ped in tlie liquor, and the effect will be iustanily 
produced. 



388 



UXIVERS.VL RECEIPT BOOK 



To clean gold lace. 

Gold lace is easily cleuni-d r.nd restored to its 
nri!i;inal brightness hy rubbing it with a soft l)rush 
rlrpped ia roclic alum burnt, sifted to a ■very fine 
powder. 

To clean china and glass. 

The best mnttri:d for ck':uiin;4; either porcelain 
or s^lass ware is fuller's earth, but it must be beaten 
into a fine po>»'der and carefully cleared from ail 
rough or hard particles, which might endanger the 
polish of tlie brilliant surface. 

, To explore unvenlilated places. 

Light some slu-ets of brown paper and throw 
into the well or cavern; also fix a long pipe to a 
pair of bellows and blow for some time into the 
place. 

To avnd injury from bees. 

A wasp or bee swallowed may be killed before it 
can do harm, Ijy taking a tea spoonful of common 
sa't dissolved in water. It kills the insect, and 
cures the sting. Salt at all times is the best cure 
for external stings; sweet oil, pounded mallows, or 
onions, or powdered chalk made into a paste with 
•water, are also efticacious. 

If bees swarm upon the head, smoke tobacco and 
hold an empty hive over the head, and they will 
enter it. 

To raise -water in all situations. 

The finest springs may be formed by boring, 
■which is performed in the sim])lest manner, by the 
mere use of an iron rod, forced into the earth by a 
windlass. The workmen in a few days get to a 
genuine spring of pure water, fit for every pur- 
jjose. After the water is found, they merely put 
tin pipes down the aperture, and it preserves a fine 
stream which sometimes rises from four to five feet 
liij,'h. 

To keep up sash -windoivs. 

This is performed by means of cork, in the sim- 
plest manner, and with scarcely any expense. 
Bore three or four holes in the sides of the sash, 
into which insert common bottle corks, pr;ijecting 
about tlie sixteenth part of an inch. These \A\\ 
press against the window frames, along the usual 
groove, and by their elasticity support the sash at 
:aiy lieight which muy be required. 

To write for the rise oft/u; blind. 

Let an iron pen be used, the point of which is 
not split. Bliiul persons writing without ink, and 
pressing on a strong paper, will produce characters 
ill relief, which liiey can immediately read, by 
passing their fingers over the projecting charac- 
ters, on the opposite side of the paper, in the cou- 
traiy direction. 

To freeze quicksilver. 

Crystallized niuiiate of lime and snow may be 
used as frigorific ingredients for this purpose. 
Pour ounces of mercury in a retort immersed iti a 
mixture of snow and miu'iate of lime, the degree 
of cold being 50 degrees, were fixed, in an experi- 
ment, in fifteen minutes. In another experiment, 
the exfcrnal temperature being 33 degrees, the 
quantity of 5& lbs. avoirdupoise, of mercury in- 
closed in a bladder, was completely fixed in the 
same mixture, in an hour and forty minutes. 
To clean boots and shoes. 

Good brushes and bl-ackitig are indispensably ne- 
cessary. First remove all the loose dirt with a 
■wooden knife, and never use a sharp steel one, as 
the leather is too often cut, and the boots and shoes 
spoiled. Then take the hard urush and brush olf 
the remainder, and all the dust; they must also be 
quite dry before blacking or they will not shine. 
Do not put on too much blacking at a time, fur, if 
it dries before using the shining brush, the leatiier 
will look brown instead cf black. If there are 
boot-tress, nisvor clean either boots or shoes -with- 



out them; but take cave that the trees are .ilwnys 
kept clean and free from dust. Never put one 
shoe vitliiii another: an(l when cleaning ladies' 
'boots or shoes be careful to ha/e clean hands, that 
the linings may not get soiled. Always stir tir: 
blacking up well befoi-e using it, put it on the 
brush with a \)iece of sponge tied to the end of a 
small cane, and ';ecp it corked when done with it, 
as it gets spoiled by being exposed to the air. 
Always scrape off the dirt when wet from boots or 
shoes; but never place them too near the fire whea 
dry, as that cracks the leather. 

There are various ways of cleaning boot tops. 
In all cases, houevei', the tops are done the last; 
great care therefore is necessary that li»e bottoms 
do not get dirtied whilst the tops are doing. To 
prevent this, take a piece of parchment ami cover 
the top i)art of the boot whilst the leg of it is 
cleaning, and afterwards the leg part whilst the top 
is cleaning. Directions for mixtures proper for 
thin purpose, as also for rendering leather water- 
proof, and for making blacking, will be found by 
referring to the index. 

7'o clea?i kjtivcs and forks. 

Procure a smooth board, free from knots, or One 
covered with leather. If the latter, melt a suffi- 
cient quantity of mutton suet, and put it hot upon 
the leather with a piece of flannel; then take two 
pieces of soft Bath brick, and rub tliein one 
against the other over the leather till it is covered 
with the powder, which rub in until no greasu 
comes through wlien a knife is passed over tho 
leatbei-, which may eabily be known by the knifo 
keeping its polish. 

If only a plain board, rub the Bath brick two or 
three times over it; for if too much be put on at 
once it will make the blades of the knives look 
rough and scratched. Let the board be of a proper 
height, and set so that the person may be a litllj 
on the stoop while cleaning the knives. Take a 
knife in each hand, holding them back to back; 
stand opposite the middle of the board; lay the 
knives iiat upon it, and tlo not bear too hard U[)on 
them; by this method it will be easier to clean two 
knives at a time than one, and they will be les3 
liable to be broken, for good knives will sjiap when 
pressed on too heavily. Many will say that the^'' 
cannot clean two knives at once, or llial tiicy can 
get through them faster one by one; but if tiiey 
will only try it a fevr' ti.iies in tlie wayrecommend- 
ed, they will find it liul only much more expe«li- 
tious, but easier. 

Be careful in keeping a good edge on the knives. 
Carving knives in particular ought to be kept shar[), 
which may easily be done by taking one in eacli 
hand, back to back when cleaning, scarcely leltinj^ 
them touch the boai-d when expanding the arnis, 
but when drawing the hands together again bearing 
a little hard on the edge of the knives; this will 
give them both a good edge and a fine polish, and 
IS much better than sharpening them witli a steel. 

The best way to clean steel torks is to fill a small 
oyster barrel with fine gravel, brick-dust, or sand, 
mixed with a little liay or moss: make it moder- 
ately damp, press it well down, and let it always 
be kept tlanip. By running the prongs of llm 
steel forks a few times into this, all the stains on 
them will be removed. Then have a small slick, 
shaped like a knife, with leather round it to jxilisli 
between the prongs, &c. having first carefully 
brushed oft' the dust from them as soon as they are 
taken out of the tub. A knife board is often spoil- 
ed by cleaning forks upon it, and likewise th'i 
backs of the knives: to prevent this have a piece of 
old hat or leather put on the board where tha 
forks and backs of the knives are cleaned. 

Always turn the buck of the kuivos towards the 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



389 



palm oF tlie band in wiping them, tliis will pre- 
vent all danger IVoni cutting. In wiping the forks 
l)Ut the corner of the clotli between llie \(rongs, to 
remove an)' dirt or dust that may not iiavebeen 
thoroiij^hly bnislied out; and if there should bi; sil- 
ver ferults on tlie knives and forks, or silver haii- 
clles, tlu-y must be rubbed with a piece of leather 
and phite powder, keeping the blades covered 
while the handles are cleaning. 

Wipe the knives and forks as soon as possible 
«fler being used, as the longer tliey are L-ft with 
grease ami stains on them tlie harder lliey will be 
10 clean; particularly if they have been used for 
acids, salads, tarts, kc. have then a jug of hot wa- 
ter ready to put them into as soon as done with, 
and wipe them as before directed. 

In order to keep knives and forks in good con- 
dition wlien they are not in use, rub the steel [)art 
■with a flannel dipped in oil; wipe the oil oft" after 
a few hours, as there is often water in it; or dust 
the blades and prongs with quick lime, finely pow- 
dered, and kept in a muslin hag. 

7'o dean plate and plated articles. 
Tlie ])late ought to be free from grease; wash it, 
therefore, in boiling water, and if it have rough 
edges, brush it well before beginning to clean it. 
The leathers should be soft and thick; the sponge 
■well soaked in water before using it. Use the 
plate powder, or whiting, either wet or dry; if wet 
tie not put it on too much plate at once; rub it, if 
plain, with the bare hand; small articles, such as 
spoons and forks, can be done between tlie finger 
and thumb. The lounger plate is rubbed the bet- 
ter it will* look; when done enough brush the whi- 
ting or powder from out of the crevices and crests 
of the plate, and from between the prongs of the 
forks very carefully. Be careful also not to rub 
the sail ami tea-spoons and other small articles too 
Irard, lest they should break or bend. Keep a clean 
leather to finish rubbing the ])late with, after it is 
brushed, and let it be ilusted with a linen cloth be- 
fore it is put upon the table. 

Plated articles require even more care than sil- 
ver ones; theysiiould be cleaned with soft brushes, 
not too often, and never with any thing but plate 
powder, not even whiting by itself; do not wet 
them more than can be helped or they will taridsh; 
nor brush tliem more than is necessaiy, or the sil- 
ver will come off; the best thing for them is spirit 
of wine or oil; and take care that no plated arti- 
cles remain long dirty or damp, for if they do they 
will rust in case they are plated on steel, and can- 
ker if ])!ated on copper. 

Wasii the brushes after the plate is cleaned with 
warm water and soap, do them quickly, and then 
set them to dry, with the wooden side uppermost, 
as that takes the most drying, and the bristles are 
apt to come out if the wood remain long wet. 
'i'o trim and clean lamps. 
IF they only want cleaning, pour in boiling wa- 
ter, with a little i)earl-ash, and shake it well: if 
the gummy part will not come away, scrape it care- 
fully off, with a wooden or steel knife; then take 
the lami) to pieces and clean every part thorough- 
ly. There are gtr.erally two or three small holes 
in the common brass lamps, to admit the air; be 
^♦articular in keeping them open with a pin, or a 
piece of wire, as otherwise the lamp will smoke, 
ajul not give a good light. 

The patent lamps are more difficult to clean. 
Take them entirely to pieces and use nothing,but 
boiling water and pearl-ash. When the pan which 
holds the oil is thoroughly washed, wipe it quite 
dry with an old cloth, and put it upside down near 
the fire to take oft" the damps; let every other part 
he done the same. Flannel and soai) are best to 
mii for the oiitsiile of the lamp, lie cartfql ill 



cleaning the chimneys of the patent lamps; and 
also that part which receives the droppings of oil; 
for if they are not kept clean and free for the air to 
go through, the lamp will never burn well. 

Keep the cottons always clean and diy, as well 
as the slick to put them on. Choose them of a fair 
thickness; not loose, but tight woven, firm and cut 
even: do not get too much oil at once, as it loses 
its goodness by keeping. Cut the cottons even, 
and fill the lamps witli oil Hhen trimming them; 
but not so as to run o\er. Wlien fresh cottons are 
put in let the oil down, so that thev may get well 
soaked, after which put up the part' that keeps the 
oil up. Have a tin (lot with a long spout, to put 
the oil in with, to prevent spilling. Clean .the 
glass with a damp sponge dipped iii whiting; rub 
it well, but not hard, with a cloth or soft leather, 
and iinisli it with a clean linen clotli, or silk hand- 
kerchief. If the brass part of the glass lamp wants 
cleaning, use soap and llannel, and let iheiii all be 
dusted every day, before lighting them. If the 
patent lamps be lighted up every evening, they 
should be emptied once a week; do not put the o'll 
that comes from them into the jiir with the best oil 
but keep it separate to burn in the common lamps. 
In cold weather warm the oil, by ])uttiiio- tjie 
lamps near the hall fire, just before lighting them: 
but be careful in carrying them about the house 
for fear of spilling tiie oil. When lighting them/" 
do not raise the cotton up too high or too quickly, 
so as to smoke or crack the glasses. In frosty 
weather in particular, the glasses are very easily 
broken by a sudden transition from cold to he.at. 
Raise the cottons therefore, gradually, and let the 
glass get wai-m by degrees. Use wax-tapers, or 
matches without brimstone for lighting them; but 
not paper. If any doubt arises as to the lamps 
burning well, light them a little before they are 
wanted. 

To clean candlesticks and snuffers. 
If silver or plated, care must be taken that they 
are not scratched in getting oft' the wax or grease: 
therefore never use a knife for that pur[)ose, nor 
hold them before the fire to melt the wax or grease, 
as in general the hollow jiart of the candlesticks, 
towards the bottom, is filled with a composition 
that will melt if made too hot. Four boiling wa- 
ter over them; this will take all the grease off" 
without injury if wiped directly with an old cloth, 
and save the brushes from being gi-eased: let tlietn 
in all other respects be cleaned like the rest of the 
plats. 

If japanned bed-room candlesticks, never hold 
them near the fire, or scrape them with a knife; 
the best way is to pour water upon them just hot 
enough to melt the grease; then wipe them with a 
cloih, and if they look smeary, sprinkle a little 
whiting, or flour upon them, and rub it clean off. 

He very particular in cleaning the patent snuf- 
fers, as they go with a spring, and are easily bro- 
ken. The part which shuts up the snuffing has in 
general a small hole in it, where a pin can be put, 
to keep it open while cleaning it; be sure to have 
them well cl'.aned, that the snuft" may not drop 
about when using them. The extinguishers like- 
wise must be well cleaned in the inside, and be put 
ready with the snuffers, tliat the candlesticks may 
not be taken up without them. 

If the sockets of the candlesticks be too large 
for the candles, nut a piece of paper round the end, 
hut do not let it be seen above the nozzle of II15 
candlestick, lie particular in putting them in 
straight, and having clean hands, that they may not 
be dirtied. Always li-ht the candles to b.un'i off 
the cotton, before setting them up; but leave the 
ends long enough to be lighted with ease, when 

3 7/3 



590 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT I300K, 



To clean furnilttre. 

Keep the paste or oil in a proper can or jar, that 
there inaj' be no danger of upsetting when usins^ 
it. Have two pieces of" woollen cloth, one for 
rubbinij; it on, the other for rubbing it dry and 
polishing; also an old linen cloth to finish with, 
and a piece of smoolii soft cork to rub out the 
stains: use a brush if the paste be hard. Always 
dust the table well before the oil or \)aste is put on; 
and if it sliould be stained, rub it with a damp 
sponge, and then witli a dry clo'.h. If the stain 
does not disappear, rub it well with a cork or a 
brush the way the wood grow s; for if rulibed cross- 
grained, it will be sure to scratcli it. Be caretul 
to keep tlie cork and brush free from dust and 
(hrt. When the dust is cleaned otf and the stains 
have been got out, put on the oil or paste, but not 
too much at a time; rub it well into the wood; if 
oil, be as quick as possible in rubbing it over the 
table, and then polish it with another woollen cloth. 
If wax, put a little bit on tiie woollen cloth, with 
the finger, or a small stick; rub it well with this 
till the table has a high polish, then have another 
Cloth to finish it with, lie vei-y careful to have 
the edges of the table well cleaned, and the oil 
and wax well rubbed off. 

The furniture which is not in constant use will 
not require to be oiled above once a week: it ought, 
however, to be dusted every day and well rubbed. 
Tables which are used daily must be well rubbed 
everj' mprning, and great care should be taken to 
remove all spots from them particularly ink: this 
can very easily be done, if not left to dry long, by 
putting on a little salt of lemons with the finger. 

When cleaning tables or chairs, be careful to re- 
move them into the middle of the room, or at a 
distance from the wall. If the sideboard, or side- 
table is fixed to the wall, be still more careful in 
cleaning it, and roll u[) the woollen cloth light in 
the hand, and into a small compass. 

To clean looking-glasses, mirrors, &c. 

If they should be hung so high that they cannot 
be conveniently reached, have a pair of stei)s to 
stand upon; but mind that they stand steady. I'hen 
take a piece of soft sponge, well washed and clean- 
ed from every thing gritty, just dip it into water 
and squeeze it out again, sfnd then dip it into some 
spirit of wine. Rub it over the glass; dust it over 
■with some powder blue, or whiting sifted through 
muslin; rub it lightly and quickly ofl" again, with 
a cloth: then take a clean cloth, and rub it well 
again, andfiuish by rubbing it with a silk handker- 
chief. 

If the glass be very large, clean one half at a 
time, as otherwise the s|)irit of wine will dry be- 
fore it can be rubbed off. If the frames are not 
varnished, the greatest care is necessary to keep 
them quite dry, so as not to touch them with the 
sponge, as this will discolour or take off the gilding. 

To clean the frames, take a little raw cotton in 
the state of wool, and rub the frames with it; this 
■will take off all the dust and dirt without injiiring 
the gilding. If the frames are well varnished, rulj 
tlipm with spirit of wine, which will take out all 
spots, and give them a fine polish. Varnished 
doors may be done in the same manner. Never 
use any cloth to frames, or drawings, or unvarnish- 
ed oil paintings, when cleaning and dusting 
them. 

To brush clothes. 

Have a wooden horse to put the clothes on, and 
a small cane to beat the dust out of them; also a 
board or table long enough for them to be put their 
whole length when brushing them. Have two 
brushes, one a hard bristle, the other soft; use the 
hardest for the great coats, and for the others when 
spotted with dirt. Fine cloth coals should never 



be brushed with too hard a brush, as this will take 
off the nap, and make them look bare in a little 
time, lie careful in the choice of the cane; do 
not have it too large, and be jiarticular not to hit 
too hard; be careful also not to hilthe buttons, for 
it will scraleli if not break them; therefore a small 
hand-whip is the best to beat with. 

If a coat be wet and spotted with dirt, let it be 
quite dry before brushing it; then rub out the spots 
with the hands, taking care not to rumple it in so 
doing. If it want beating, do it as before directed, 
then put the coat at its full length on a board; let 
the collar be towards the left bwnd, and tht brush 
in the riglit: brusii the back of the collar first, be- 
tween the two shoulders next, and then the sleeves, 
&.C. observing to brush the clolh the same way that 
the nap goes, whicli is towards the skirt of the coat. 
When both sides are propei'ly done, fold them to- 
gether; then brush the inside, and last of all the 
collar. 

To take out grease from clothes. 

Take oft' the grease with the nail, or if that can- 
not be done, have a hot iron with some thick brown 
paper; lay the paper on the part where the grease 
is, then put the iron upon the spot; if the grease 
comes through the jjaper, put on another i)iece, till 
it does not soil the paper. If not all out, wrap a 
little bit of cloth or flannel round the finger, dip it 
into spirit of wine, and rub the grease spot; this 
will take it entirely out. Be careful not to have 
the iron too hot; try it first on a piece of white pa- 
per; if it turn the paper brown, or scorch it in the 
least, it is too hot. If paint should get on the 
coats, always have spirit of wine or tui-pentine 
ready, this with a piece of flannel or cloth will easi- 
ly take it oft', if not left to get quite dry. 
'J'o pack glass or china. " 

Procure some soft straw oi- hay to pack them in, 
and if they are to be sent a long way, and are hea- 
vy, the hay or straw should be a little damp, which 
will prevent them slipi)ing about. Let the largest 
and heaviest things be always put undermost. in the 
box or hamper. Let there be plenty of straw, and 
pack the articles tight; but never attempt to pack 
up gluss or china which is of much consequence, 
till it has been seen done by some one used to the 
job. The expense will be but trifling to have a 
person to do it who understands it, and the loss 
may be great if articles of such value are packed 
up in an improper manner. 

1 'o clean wine decanters. 

Cut some brown pa|)er into very small bits, so 
as to go with ease into the decanters; then cut a 
few pieces of soap very small, and put some water, 
milk warm, into the decanters, upon the soap and 
paper; put in also a little pearl-ash; by well work- 
ing this about in the decanters, it will take off the 
crust of the wine and give the glass a fine polish. 
Where the decanters have been scratched, and the 
wine left to stand in them a long time, have a small 
cane with a bit or sponge lied tight at one end; by 
putting this into the decanter, any crust of the 
wine n»ay be removed. When the decanters have 
been pro[)erly washed, let them be thoroughly 
dried, and turned down in a proper rack. 

If the decanters have wine in them, when put 
by, have some good corks always at hand to put in 
instead of stoppers; this will keep the wine much 
belter. 

To decant ivine. 

Be careful not to shake or disturb the cruet when 
moving it about or drawing the cork, particularly 
port wine. Never decant wine wiihont a wina 
strainer, with some fine cambric in it to prevent 
the crust and bits of cork going into the decanter. 
In decanting port wine do not drain it loo nearj 
ihei-e are generally two-thirds of a wine glass of 



]VUSCELLANEOUS, 



391 



thick dregs in each bottle, •which ought not to be 
put in: but in white wine there is not much set- 
tling; pour it out however slowly, and raise tlie 
bottle up gradually; the wine should never be de- 
canted in a hurry, therefore always do it before the 
family sit down to dinner. Do not jostle the de- 
canters against each other when moving them about, 
as they easily break when full. 

To clean tea trays. 

Do not pour boiling water over them, particu- 
larly on japanned ones, as it will make the varnish 
crack ami psel off; but have a sponge wetted with 
■warm water and a little soap if the tray be very 
dirty; then rub it with a cloth; if it looks smeary, 
(lust on a little flour, then rub it with a dry cloth. 
If the paper tray gets marked, lake a piece of 
woollen cloth, with a little sweet oil, and rub it 
over the marks, if any tiling will talie them out 
this will. Let the urn be emptied and tlie top 
wiped dry, particularly tiie outside, for if any wet 
be suffered to dry on it will leave a mark. 
To -wash and dean gentlemen''s gloves. 

Wash thera in soap and water till the dirt is got 
out, then stretch them on wooden hands, or pull 
them out in their proper shape. Never wring 
thera, as that puts them out of form, and makes 
them shrinic; put them one upon anotiier and press 
the water out. Tiien rub the following mixture 
over the outside of the gloves. If wanted quite 
yellow, take yellow ochre; if quite wiiite, pipe 
r.lay; if between the two, mix a little of each to- 
gether. By proper mixture of these any shade 
may be produced. Mi.x the colour with beer or 
vinegar. 

Let them dry gradually, not too near the fire nor 
in too hot a sun; when they are about half dried 
rub them well, and stretcli them out to keep tliem 
from shrinking, and to soften them. When they 
are well rubbed and dried, take a small cane and 
beat them, then brush them; when this is done, 
iron them rather warm, with a piece of paper over 
them, but do not let the iron be loo hot. 
'Jo -warm beds. 

Take all the black or blazing coals out of the 
pan, and scatter a little salt over the remainder: 
tliis will prevent the smell of sulphur, so disagree- 
able to delicate persons. 

To bring horses out of a stable on fire. 

Throw tiie liarness or saddles to wliicli tiiey may 
have been accustomed, over the backs of the horses 
in this predicament, and they will come out of the 
stable as tractably as usual. 

To manage ivater pipes in -winter. 

When the frost begins to set in, cover the water 
pipes with hay or straw bands, twisted tiglit round 
them. Let tiie cisterns and water-butts be washed 
out occasionally; this will keep the water pure and 
fresh. 

In pumping up water into the cistern for the 
water-closet, be very particular, in winter time, as 
in general the pipes go up the outside of the house. 
Let all tile water be let out of the pipe when done 
pumping; but if tliis is forgotten, and it siiould be 
frozen, take a small gimblet and bore a hole in tlie 
pipe, a little distance from the place where it is 
let off, which will prevent its bursting. Put a peg 
into tiie hole when tiie water is let off. Pump tiie 
■water up into the cistern for the closet every morn- 
ing, and once a week take a pail of water, and cast 
It into the basin, having first opened tlie trap at 
the bottom; this will clear the soil out of the pipe. 
'To extract lamp-oil out of stone or marble halls, 
&c. 

Mix well together a pint of strong soap lees, 
some fuller's earth well dried and a little pipe clay, 
pouiuifti fine; and lay it on the part which is oiled; 



then put a hot iron upon it till dr}'. If all the oil 
should not come out the first time, do it again; 
and in putting it on, let it be well rubbed into the 
stone. By doing it two or three times in this way 
it will come out. 

To get oil out of boards. 

Mix together fuller's eartli and soap lees, and 
rub it into the boards. Let it dry and then scour 
it off with some strong soft soap and sand, or use 
lees to scour it witli. It should be juit on hot, 
which may easily be done, by heating tlie lees. 
To preserve huts. 

Hats require great care or tliey will soon look 
shabby. Brush them with a sott camel-hair brush, 
this will keep the fur smootli. Have a stick for 
each hat to keep it in its proper shape, especially 
if the hat has got wet; put the stick in as soon as 
the hat is taken off, and when dry put it into a hat 
box, particularly if not in constant use, as the air 
and dust soon turn liats brown. If llie hat is very 
wet, haiulle it as lightly as possible; wipe it drv 
with a'fclotli, or silk handkerchief; then brush it 
with the soft brush. If the fur sticks so close when 
almost dry, that it cannot be got loose with the 
soft brushes, then use tiie hard ones; but if the fur 
still sticks, damp it a little with a sponge dipped 
in beer or vinegar; then brush it with a hard brush 
till dry. 

To Ttmke gas from coal-tar. 

It has been found by experiment, that the coal- 
tar liquor, which is sometimes considered as waste 
by those who make gas, if mixed with dry saw- 
dust, exhausted logwood, or fustic, to the consis- 
tence of jiaste, and allowed to remain till the water 
has drained off; two cwt. of the mass, being put 
into the retort instead of coal, will produce more 
gas, and be less offensive. 

To walk on -water. 

An exhibition called walking on water, has been 
exhibited by Mr Kent at Glasgow. The apparatus 
is represented in an engraving; where a. b. c. are 
three hollow tin cases, of the form of an oblong 
hemispheroid, connected together by three iron 
bars, at the meeting of which is a seat for the ex- 
hibitor. These eases, filled with air, are of such 
magnitude that they can easily support his weight, 
and as a. b. and a. c. are aftout ten feet and b. c. 
about eight feet, he floats very steadily upon the 
water. The feet of the exhibitor rest on stirrups, 
and he attaches to his shoes, by leather belts, two 
paddles, d. e. which turn on a joint when he brings 
his foot forward to lake tlie stroke, and keep a 
vertical position when he draws it back against the 
resisting water; by the alternate action of his feet 
I he is thus enabled to advance at the rate of five 
miles an iinur. 

To obtain the fragrant essences from the fresh rinds 
of citrons, oranges, &c. 

Procure as many fresli citrons as will supply the 
required stock of essence; after cleaning oft' any 
speck in the outer rinds of tlie fruit, break off a 
large piece of loaf sugar and rub tlie citron on it 
till the yellow rind is comjiletely absorbed. Those 
parts of the sugar which are impregnated with the 
essence are from time to time to be cut awa)' with 
a knife, and put in an earthen disli. The whole 
being tiius taken off, tlie sugared essence is to 
be closely [iressed, and put by in pots; where it is to 
be squeezed down liard; iiavu a bladder over the 
jiajier by whicli it is covere<l, and tied tightly up. 
It is at any time fit fur use, and will keep tor many 
years. [Exactly in tlie same manner may be ob- 
tained and preserved, at the proper seasons, from 
the fresii fruits, the essences of the rinds of Se- 
ville oranges, lemons, bergaraots, 6cc. ] This 
mode of extractii.g and preserving these essences 



UNIVERSAL IlECEIPT BOOK. 



302 

is superior to the common practices of peelins:, 
rasping, or grating oft' the rind, and aftervvarils 
mixing it upwitii powdered sugar, k.c. 
To ascertain the proportion of alcoltnl in tuines, 
beer, ciiler, and other spirituous liquors. 
To 100 parts in volume oftiie liquid to be tried, 
add 12 parts of the solution of sub-acetate of lead 
(prepared as directed below:) a precipitation en- 
sues, whicli by a slight agitation is rendered gene- 
ral. On filtering, a colourless liquid containing 
the alcohol is procured. By mixing with this dry 
and warm carbonate of potass, (calcined pearl- 
ash) as long as it is dissolved, the water is sepa- 
rated from the alcohol. The latter is seen floating 
above in a well marked stratum; the quantity of 
■which can be estimated at once, in a measiu'e lube. 
Tu prepare the solution of sub-acetate of lead. 
Boil 15 parts of pulverized (and calcined) li- 
tharge, witlvlO of acetate of lead, in 200 of water, 
for 20 minutes, and concentrate the liquid by slow 
evaporation to one half; it must be kept in well- 
corked phials, quite full. 

'J'o determine ivhether loheat four, or bread be 
adidteruted -with clialk. 
Mix with the flour to be tried, a little sulphuric 
acid; if chalk or whiting be present, an efterves- 
cence (arising from the discharge of the carbonic 
acid of the chalk) will take place; but if the fluur 
be pure, no eftervesctnce is produced. 
Another method. 
Pour boiling water on some slices of bread, and 
then pour into the water a little sulphuric acid; if 
there be any chalk in the bread, an etVervescence 
■will ensue as iiefore; but if none be in it, no elfer- 
\escence will take place. 

Chemical tests— far gold. 
To a diluted colourless solution of nitro-muri- 
ate of gold add a few drops of a solution of any salt 
of tin — or stir the solution of gold with a slip ot 
metallic tin; in either case, the production of a 
beautiful purple or port wine colour will be the 
immediate result. If the mixture is allowed to 
settle, it becomes colourless, a ])urj)K: powder 
(which is an oxide of gold c imbined with a little 
tin) being precipitated. This po« der is employed 
in the painting of cliiua, and is called the purple 
jirecipitate of (Jassius. < 

For silver. 
Let fall a drop of a soluliou of nitrate of silver 
into a glassful of water, and add to it a grain of 
common salt. Mutual decomposition of tlie salts 
■will take place, and muriate of silver (in the form 
of a white powder) will be precipitated. 
Fur cojiper. 
Add a few drops of a suiuiion of nitr.tte of cop- 
per to a test glass of water — the mixture will be 
colourless; jtour into it a little liquid ammonia — 
the mixtui-j will then assume a fine deep blue 
colour. 

To preserve pictures from decay. 
To strengthen a decayed canvas and to preserve 
sound canvas from decaying, let the back of every 
])iclnre receive two or three good thick coats of 
A\hite lead, or whatever other cheap pigment is 
most recommendable for tenacity and strength. In 
pictures which may henceforth be produced every 
painter should take care to have his canvas well 
tacked with a strong coating of paint, previously 
to its being nailed to the frame, to secuie it in 
every part from damp, mould, and mildew. In 
consequence of iliis precaution, his piece may be 
preserved one or two centuries longer than any 
oliier contemporary pictures whose backs are na- 
ked canvas. 

To prepare soda water. 
Soda water is pi-epared (from jiowders) precisely 
in the same manner as ginger beer, e.xcept that, 



instead of the two powders there mentioned, the 
two following are used: for one ijlass 30 grains of 
carbonate of soda, for the other 25 grains of tarta- 
ric (or citric) acid. 

To prepare g-inger beer powders. 
Take Sdrachmsof fine loaf sugar, 8 grains of gin- 
ger, and 26 grains of cai'bonate of potass, all in fine 
powder; mix them intimately in a Wedgwood's ware 
mortar. Take also 27 grains of citric or tartaric 
acid, (the first is the pleasantf st but the last the 
cheapest). The acid is to be kept separate from 
the rrii.vture. The beer is prepared from the |)0W- 
ders thus: take two tumbler glasses, each half lilled 
with water, stir up the compound powder in one 
of them, and the acid powder in the other, then 
mix the two liquors; an efi:ervescence takes place, 
the beer is prepared and m;iy be drank oft". 

The eft'ervesceiice is occasioned by the discharge 
of the carbonic acid of the c«rl)onate of potass. If 
the beer is allowed to stand for a few minutes it 
becomes flat; this is owing to its having lost ail its 
carbonic acid. The cost of these powilers is eight- 
pence a dozen sets. 

To determine whether water be hard or soft. 
To ascertain whether or not water be fit for do- 
mestic purposes, to a glassful of the water add a 
few drops of the solution of soap in alcohol. If the 
water be pure it will continue limpid, if impure, 
while Hakes will be formed. 

7 'o deled copper in pickles or green tea. 
Put a few leaves of tlu; tea, or some of the 
pickle, cut small, into a phial with 2 or 3 ilrachras 
of liquid ammonia, diluted wilh one half the quan- 
tity of water. Shake the phial, when, if the most 
niinute portion of copper be present, the liquid 
will assume a fine blue colour. 

7 make patent cement. 
A mixture of lime, clay, and oxide of iron, se- 
parately calcined ami reduced to fine powder, are 
to be intiinateiy mixed. It must be kept in close 
vessels and mixed wilh the reipiisite quantity of 
water when used. This cement is useful for coat- 
ing the joinings of the wood (jf which the pneuma- 
tic trough is composed, -in order to render it water 
tight; and for oiher purposes of a like nature. 
To preserve phosphorus. 
Keep it in places where neither light nor heat 
has access. It is obtained from druggists in rolls 
about the thickness of a (piill; these are put into a 
l)hial filled with cold water, which has been boiled 
to expel air from it, and the phial is inclosed in an 
opaque case. 

To make gimpowder. 
Pulverize separately 5 drachms of nitrate of 
potass, 1 of suljjhur, and 1 of newly burnt charcoal. 
Mix them together with a little water in a mortar, 
so as to make the compound into a dough, which 
must be rolled out into round pieces the thickness 
of a pin, between two boards. Lay a few of these 
pieces together and ::ut them wilh a knife into 
small gi-ains, which are to be placed on a sheet ot 
paper in a warm place to dry. During granulation 
the dough must be prevented slicking lo the board 
by rubbing on it a little of ihe dry compound pow- 
der. The explosion takes place in consequence 
of the generation of a large quantity of various 
gases. !• 

To produce instantaneous light. 
Put a little (iliosphorus, dried on blotting paper, 
into a small phial, heat the phial by placing it in a 
ladle of hot sand, and turn it round sj that the 
melted phosphorus may adhere to its sides. Cork 
the phial closely and it is prepared. 
.Another. 
Mis one part of flower of sulphur wilh eiglit 
parts '-(f Dhnsjihorus. On putting a common sul- 
i (ihur malc.h into this fiie boltlej stirring it abotvt a 



MISCEl-LA^'EOUS. 



593 



little and then withdrawing it into the air it will 
take fire. Sometimes, however, it is found ne- 
cessary to rub the malcli, when wiliidrawn from 
the phial, on a cork before it will infi'ame. 
Instantaneous liq-lit boxes. 
The liquid is concentrated sulphuric acid. The 
bottle containinn;it is never opened except when it 
is to be used; for the acid, when ex[)osed to the 
air, imbibes moisture very rajjidly and is soon 
spoiled. The matches are prepared as follows: 
—the ends of some small slips of light wood are 
dipped into a strong solution of gum, and aflcr- 
"wards into the mixture of chlorate of potass and 
sulphui-, prepared by rubbing 2 grains of the for- 
mer into a fine powder in a mortar, and adding 1 
grain of flowers of sulphur, liien mixing Ibem very 
accurately by well triturating them in the gentlest 
possible manner. 

The powder is fastened to the wood by the gum, 
and the matclies wlien dry are fit for use. Then 
take one and dip it into the liquid, upon which it 
lakes fire. 

Curious mode of silvering' ivory. 

Immerse a small slip of ivory in a weak solution 
of nitrate of silver, and let it remain till the solu- 
tion has given it a deep yellow colour; then take it 
out and immerse it in a tumbler of clear water, 
and expose it in the water to the rays of tiie sun. 
In about three hours the ivory acquires a black co- 
lour; but the black surface on being rubbed, soon 
tiecotnes clianged to a brilliant silver. 

To make inh for fmntirfsf on linen with tvpes. 

Dissolve 1 part of asphaltum in four parts of oil 
of turpentine, and add lamp-black, or black-lead, 
in fine powder, in sufficient quantity to render the 
ink of ii proper consistence for printing with types. 
To estimate the distance or danger of a thunder- 
cloud. 

From a knowledge of the velocity with which 
sc\md travels, the distance of a thunder-cloud, or 
of a gun fired on board a ship at sea, even in the 
night time, may be very accurately deduced. In 
the first case, the period of time between seeing 
the lightning and hearing the thunder must be ta- 
ken, and if a stop-watch, or pendulum, is not at 
Jiand, the pulse may be used; for the pulsations of 
a healthy adult approach so near to seconds, that 
in the time of four or five of them no very sensible 
error can arise. Multiply the number by 1142 
feet, the distance through which sound moves in a 
second. 

Improved method of binding school books. 

When the hooks have been cut, coloured, and 
backed, cut off the part of the bands intended to be 
laced to the pasteboards, and glue on the back a 
piece of strong smooth linen cloth, which must 
reach within half an inch of the head and foot, 
turning on the sides about an inch: paste the boards 
on each side of the cloth, fixing them close in at 
the groove, and give the books a firm pressing in 
the standing press till dry. Square the boards, 
glue the backs, and cover and finish the books in 
the usual manner. 

This method will secure and give strength to 
the joints, so as effectually to prevent the leioer 
from breaking, and require no more time than lac- 
ing iji the bands. The edges may now be colour- 
ed, sprinkled, or marbled, as required. 
To cover books -with leather. 

Immerse the leather in water; after which wring 
it, and stretch it oi\ a hoard; place the book with 
the boards extended thereon, and cut out the cover 
allowing about half an inch larger than the book, 
to turn over the inside of the i)asteboards. Fare 
the edge of the cover very thin all round, on a mar- 
ble slab, and paste it well; glue the back of llie 
Dook, and spread the cover on the board. 
2 Z 



Let the pasteboards be properly squared and 
even; put the book on the cover, which draw on 
very tight. IJub the cover smooth with a folding 
slick, and turn it over on the inside of the paste- 
boards on the fore edge. The corners on tlie in- 
side must be cut and neatly pressed down; tie a 
piece of thread round the book, between the boards 
and the head-bands, draw up the leather on ilie 
back, if necessary, to cover the top of thehcad- 
bands; rub the back very smooth with a flat fold- 
ing stick, and place it at a distance from the fire 
to dry. 

Rough calf must be dampe<l on the grain side 
with a sponge and water before pasting and co- 
vering. 

Russia leather must he well soaked in water for 
an hour, taken out, well beaten, and rubbed; after 
which the paste must be well worked into the flesh 
side before covering. 

Morocco must be grained b)' rubbing it on a 
board, with the grain side inside, and after being 
pasted, left to soak for a quarter of an hour, anil 
the cover to be drawn on with a piece of woollen 
cloth to preserve the grain. 

Itoan may be either soaked in water or left to 
soak when pasted. 

Haf bound books. 

l^iese must be 'forwarded in boards, the half 
cover and corners well pared on the edges, tied 
round the head-bands, and before putting on the 
marble ])aper, the edges must be burnished. 

All whole bound books should be ])ressed be- 
tween two pressing boards of tlie same size, to 
make the cover more smooth, and to give the 
joints neatness at the back. 

To f 'reserve cabbages aitd other escident vegeta- 
bles fresh during a sea voyage, or a sevei-e -ivin- 

ter. 

Cut the cabbage so as to leave about two inches 
or more of the stem attached to it; after which, 
scoop out the pith to about the depth of an inch, 
taking care not to wound or bruisi.- the ritid by the 
operation. Suspend the cabbages by means of a 
cord, tied round the stem, so that tliat portion of 
it from which the pith is taken remain uppermost, 
which regularly fill every morning with fresh water. 
By this simple method, cabbages, cauliflowers, 
brocoli, &c. may be preserved fresh during a long 
voyage, or, in a severe winter, for domestic use. 
i'o maiinfacUire salt by evaporation on faggots. 

This method, according to Mr IJakewell, is prac- 
tised with great success at Montiers, in the Tar- 
rantles. There are four evaporating houses; the 
first and second receive the impregnated water 
from the reservoir, and evaporate one half of the 
water. They are 350 yards long, 25 feet high,'and 
7 feet wide, uncovered at the to[). They consist 
merely of a frame of wood, composed of upright 
posts, 3') inches from each other, strengthened by 
cross bars, and supported by stone buttresses, un- 
der which are troughs to receive the water. These 
frames are filled with double rows of blackthorn 
faggots, placed loosely, so as to admit air, and sup- 
ported by transverse pieces of wood. The water 
is raised above the faggots, and made to fall upoa 
them, through holes, in a gentle shower. It is 
then raised, and made to fall in like manner, till, 
by evaporation, it is reduced to half its original 
quantity. It is afterwards thrown in like manner 
over I'.iggots in a third house, covered, to protect 
it from rain, till it is reduced to l-7th of its ori- 
ginal quantity. The ftjurth house requires tu be 
only 70 yards long. It is afterwards canied into 
pans for boiling, and the salt is crystallized in the 
usual manner — .'jOOO hogstieads at Montiers are, 
by the first two processes, reduced to4,0t)0; by the 
third to 1,100; and by the fourth to 550 hogsheads, 



394 



UNI\TiIlSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



■which"^ latter contain 22 per cent, of salt. The 
faggots are changed every four or five years. 
To cool -worts in brewing. 
Let the worts pass througli a pipe, turned lilce 
the wornj of a still, and let the worm be immersed 
in anj running water. Carry the pipe at the lower 
end of the worm, intD anotiier vessel, lower than 
ihe first, and it will re-discharge itself at a tem- 
perature adapted to immediate fermentation. 
To preser've eggs. 
Hang them by hooks in strong cabbage-nets, and 
every day honk them on a fresti me^h, so as thereby 
to turn the eggs. 

To boil potatoes mealy. 
Select them of an uniform size, and pour over 
them cold water, in an uncovered pot just sufficient 
to cover them. When this first water nearly boils, 
pour it oft', and replace it with a similar quantity 
of salted cold water. They will thus be mealy, 
and not cracked. The prongs of a fork will prove 
■when they are done. 

To preserve potatoes. 
Large quantities may be cured at once, by put- 
ting tiieni into a basket as large as the vessel con- 
taining the boiling water will admit, and then just 
dipping them a minute or two at the utmost. The 
germ, which is so near to the skin, is thus killed, 
without injuring the potatoe; and in this way se- 
veral tons might be cured in a few hours. They 
should then be dried in a warm oven, and laid up 
in sacks or casks, secure from the frost, in a dry 
place. 

Jinother method. 
Another mode of preserving this valuable root, 
is first to peel them, then to grate them down into 
a pulp, which is put into coarse cloths, and the 
^^'ate^ squeezed out by putting them into a com- 
mon press, by which means they are formed into 
flat cakes. These cakes are to be well dried and 
preserved for use as required. This is an excel- 
lent and ingenious mode of preserving potatoes, 
although attended with too much trouble on the 
large scale. 

To choose tJie time for cutting -wheat. 
The cutting of grain should be commenced 
■whenever the straw immediately below the ear is 
so dry that on twisting it no juice can be expressed, 
for then the grain cannot improve, as the circula- 
tion of juice to the ear is stopped. It matters not 
that tile stalk below is green. Every hour that the 
grain stantis uncut, after passing this stage, is at- 
tended with loss. 

To choose a carpet. 
Always select one the figures of which are small; 
for in this case the two webs in which the carpet- 
ing consists, are always much closer interwoven 
than in carpets where large figures upon ample 
grounds are represented. 

Renovation of manuscripts. 
Take a hair pencil and wash the part which has 
been effaced with a solution of prussiale of potash 
in water, and the writing will again appear if the 
paper has not been destroyed. 

Russian mode of making butter. 
The process consists in boiling (or rather that 
species of boiling called simmering) the milk for 
the space of fifteen minutes, in its sweet state — 
observing, at the same time, not to use sufticlent 
heat to burn the milk; it is then churned in the 
usual maimer. This process produces butter im- 
mediately, and of a ciuality far superior to that 
maiie from milk which has undergone vinous fer- 
mentation; and in addition to its superior Havour, 
it will preserve its qualities much longer than that 
made in the ordinary mode. Another advantage 
is, that the milk, biting left sweet, is possessed of 
almost th« same value for ordinary purposes, and 



I more healthy, as the boiling or scalding destroy! 
I whatever auimalculse it maj' have contained. 

In winter it would -be advantageous to have the 
milk scahied in vessels calculated to stand in the 
kettle or boiler, by which mode the danger of 
burning the milk will be avoided; for milk only 
burns on the edges of its surface, or where it comes 
in contact with the sides of the vessel in which it 
is heated, which is obviated by placing kettles one 
within the other. 
Great saving of hops, by sitbstitiiting geritian root. 

The proi)ortion of gentian root to each bushel 
of malt varies from one ounce to an ounce and a 
half, to which it would be advantageous to add a 
quarter of a pound of hops. The gentian root is 
merely sliced and placed in the boding wort pre- 
cisely in the same manner that hops usually are 
— the flavour is fully equal; and the j)rice conside- 
rably under the charge for the hop, the gentian not 
costing more than l^d. per oz. 

Cure of rheumatism. 

Take cucumbers, when full grown, and put them 
into a pot with a little salt; then put the pot over a 
slow fire, where it should remain for about an 
hour; then take the cucumbers and press them, the 
juice from which must be put into bottles, corked 
up tight, and placed in the cellar, where they 
should remain for about a week; then wet a flannel 
rag with the liquid, and apply it to the parts af- 
fected. 

Fur the cure of violent itching of the feet from iii' 
cipient chilblains. 

One part of muriatic acid, mingled with seven 
parts of water, with which the feet must be well 
rubbed for a night or two before going to bed. — 
This application must be made before the skin 
breaks. It will prevent the further progress of the 
chilblains. The feet may be a little tender for a 
short time, but this slight inconvenience will sooq 
disappear. 

To preserve substances by heating in -well closea 
vessels. 

This mode of preserving vegetables as well as 
animal food, directs that the substances to be pre- 
served are to be put into strong glass bottles, with 
necks of a pro[)er size, corked with the greatest 
care, luted with a mixture of lime and soft cheese 
spread on rags, and the whole bound down with 
wires across it; the bottles are then inclosed sepa- 
rately in canvas bags, and put into a copper of 
water, which is gradually heated till it boils, and 
thus kept until it is presumed that the substances 
are as it were boiled in their own water. Meat 
or poultry ought to be three quarters boiled or 
roasted before it is put into the bottles; the whole 
is then left to cool, the bottles taken out, and care- 
fully examined before they are laid by, lest they 
should have cracked or the lute given way. The 
patentees use stone jars, and tin boxes soldered up, 
instead of glass bottles. 

To frame a polygraph, or instrument for xonting 
two letters at once. 

In this instrument, two pens, and even three if 
necessary, are joined to each other by slips of 
wood acting upon the pivot; one of these pens 
cannot move without drawing the otiier to follow 
all its movements; the rules are inflexible, and 
they preserve in all their positions the parallelisra 
which is given by uniting them. The movements 
of one of these pens are identically the same as 
those of the other; the cliaracters traced by the 
first are the exact counterpart of those which the 
second has formed; if the one rise above the paper 
and cease to write, or ratlier if it make a scratch, 
or advance towards the ink bottle, the other, faith- 
ful to tlie movements which are transmitted to it 
by the species of light wood which directs it, either 



MlSCEIiLANEOUS. 



'yOa 



rises or scratches or draws ink, and tliat wiihout 
having occasion to give any parliciilar attention to 
it. The cojiy is made of itself, and witliout ever 
thinkiriu; of it. 

The polygraph is not expensive; it is used witli- 
out difficulty, and almost with the same facility as 
in ordinary writing. The construction is as sim- 
ple as it is convenient; all the parts are collected 
so as to be taken to pieces and put up again very 
easily. Its size admits of its taking every desira- 
ble position, horizontal, perpendicular, or oblique, 
according to tlie application which is made of it, 
and tile piece of furniture to which it is to be adapt- 
ed; for it mav be fixed to a drawer, a desk, an ink- 
stand, an easel, or simply laid upon the table; it is 
generally accompanied by a drawer, and a case of 
the form and bulk of an ordinary desk. 
'J'o extingjiish a recent fiie. 

A mop and a pail of water are generally the 
most efficacious remedies; but if it has gained 
head, then keep out tlie air, and remove all ascenil- 
ing or per[)endicular combustibles, up which the 
fire creeps and increases in force as it rises. 
To escape from or go into a house on fire. 

Creep or crawl with your face near the ground, 
and although the room be full of smoke to suflbca- 
tion, yet near the floor the air is pure, and may be 
breathed with safety. The best esca\)e from upper 
windows is a knotted rope, but if a leap is una- 
•voidable, then a bed should be thrown out first, or 
beds prepared for the purpose. 

Substitute for Stilton cheese. 

Families may produce their own Stilton by the 
following simple process: — To the new milk of 
the cheese-making morning, add the cream from 
that of the preceding evening, together with the 
rennet, watching the full separation of the curd, 
•which must be removed from the whey without 
breaking, and placed in a sieve until of such a con- 
sistence as to bear being lifted up and placed in a 
hoop that will receive it without mucli pressure. 
The cheese as it dries will shrink up, and must 
therefore be placed from time to time in a tighter 
hoop, and turned daily until it acquires the proper 
degree of consistence for use or keeping. 
To imitate Partnesan. 

Let the day's milk be heated to the degree of 120 
degrees of Fahrenheit, then removed from the fire 
until all motion ceases. Put in the rennet, allow 
an hour for the coagulation, after which set the 
curd on a slow fire until heated to 150 degrees, 
during which the curd separates in small lumps. 
A few pinches of saftron are then thrown in to- 
gether with coiJ water sufficient to reduce it in- 
stantly to a bearable heat, when the curd is collect- 
ed by passing a cloth beneath it, and gathering it 
up at the corners. Place the curd in a circle ot 
wood without a bottom; lay it on a table covered 
by a round piece of wood, pressed down by a heavy 
stone. The cheese will acquire sufficient consis- 
tence in the course of a night to bear turning, when 
the upper side is to be rubbed with salt, and con- 
tinued alternately for 40 days. 

In Italy the outer crust is next cut off, and the 
new surface varnished with linseed oil: but that 
may well be omitted, as well as colouring one s.de 
of it red. 

To -white -ivash. 

Put some lumps of quick lime into a bucket of 
cold water, and stir it about till dissolved and mix- 
ed, after which a brush with a large head, and a 
long handle to reach the ceiling of the room, is 
used to spread it thinly on the walls, 8cc. When 
dry, it is beautifully white, but Us known cheap- 
ness has induced the plasterers to substitute a mi.\- 
ture of glue size and whiting for tlie houses ot tlieir 
Opulent custoraeri; and this, when once used, pre- 



cludes the employment of lime-washing ever afterj 
for the latter, when laid on whiting, becomes yel- 
low. 

AVhite washing is an admirable manner of ren-» 
dering the dwellings of the poor clean and whole- 
some. 

To prevent the smoking of a lamp. 

Soak the wick in strong vinegar, and dry it well 
before you use it; it will then burn both sweet and 
pleasant, and give much satisfaction for the trifling 
trouble in preparing it. 
Easy mode of taking impressions from coins, &c. 

A very easy and elegant way of taking the im- 
pressions of medals and coins, not generally known, 
is thus described by Dr Shaw: — Alelt a little isin- 
glass glue with brandy, and pour it thinly over the 
medal so as to cover its whole surface; let it re- 
main on for a day or two, till it is thoroughly dried 
and hardened, and then taking it oft' it will be fine, 
clear, and as hard as a piece of Muscovy glass, and 
will have a very elegant impression of the coin. It 
will also resist the effects of damp air, which oc- 
casions all other kinds of glue to soften and bend 
if not pi-epared in this way. 

Paste for sharpening razors. 

Take oxide of tin levigated, vulgarly termed 
prepared putty, one ounce; saturated solution of 
oxalic acid, a sufficient quantit)' to form a paste. 
This composition is to be rubbed over the strop, 
and when dry a little water may be added. The 
oxidic acid having a great attachment for iron, a 
little friction with this powder gives a fine edge to 
the razor. 

Jl natural dentifrice. 

The common strawberry is a natural dentifrice, 
and its juice, without any preparation, dissolves 
the tartareous incrustations on the teeth, and makes 
the breath sweet and agreeable. 

To make glass jars look like china. 

After painting the figures, cut them out, so that 
none of the while of the paper remains, tlien take 
some thick gum-arabic water, pass it over all the 
figures, and place tliem on the glass to taste: let 
them stand to dry for 24 hours, then clean them 
well with a wet cloth betwixt the prints, and let 
them stand a few hours longer lest the water should 
move any of the edges, then take white wax and 
flake white, ground very fine, and melt them lo- 
gelher: with a japanning brush go over all the 
glass above the prints; done in this manner they 
will hold water; or, boil isinglass to a strong jelly, 
and mix it up with white lead ground fine, and lay 
it on in the same manner: or use nut oil and flake 
white. For a blue ground, do it with white wax 
and Prussian blue, ground fine; for red, wax and 
vermilion or carmine; for green, wax and verdi- 
gris; for a chocolate colour, wax and burnt umber. 
To make artificial red coral branches, for the em- 
bellishment of grottoes. 

Take clear rosin, dissolve it in a brass pan, to 
eveiy ounce of w hich add 2 drs. of the finest ver- 
milion; when stirred well together, choose the 
twigs and branches, peeled and dried, then take a 
pencil and paint the branches all over whilst the 
composition is warm: afterwards shape them in 
imitation of natural coral. This done, hold the 
branches over a gentle coal fire, till all is smooth 
and even as if polished. In the same manner white 
coral may be prepared with white lead, and black 
coral, with lamji-black. A grotto may be built 
with little expense, of glass, cinders, pebbles, 
pieces of large flint, shells, moss, stones, counter- 
feit coral, pieces of chalk, &c. all bound or cement- 
ed together w ith the above described cement. 
To prepare hair for -wigs. 

Hair which does not curl or buckle naturally, is 
brought to it by art, by first b-^iling and then baking 



396 



UNIVERSAL IlECEIPT BOOK. 



it. After havinq; picked and sorted thehair,and dis- 
posed it in parcels according to lenijtlis, roll them 
\i\) ami tie tlifin tiglit down upon little cylindiical 
instruments, eitlier ot" wood or earthenware, a 
fjuar-ter of an inch thick, aiu! hollowed a little in 
the middle, called ]iipes; in which slate they are 
put in a pot over the fire, there to lioil for aljoiit 
two hours. When taken out let them dry; and 
viien dried, spread them on a sheet of lirown pn- 
l)cr, cover them with another, and thu« send them 
to the baker, who making a crust around them of 
common paste, sets them in an oven till the crust 
is about three-fourths baked. 

To make -vax canrUes. 

Place a dozen wicks on an iron circle, al equal 
♦distances, over a large copper vessel, tinned and 
full of melted wax; pour a ladleful of the wax on 
the lops of the wicks, one after another; what the 
wick does not take, will dropinto the vessel, which 
riust be kept warm by a pan of coals; continue 
this process till the caudles are as large as required. 
If they are wanted of a pyramidal form, let the 
first three ladlesful be poured on at the top of tlie 
wick, llie fourth at the height of three quarters, the 
fifth at liair, and the sixth at a quarter; then take 
them down hot, and lay them beside each other in 
a featlier-bed folded in two to preserve their warmth 
and keep the wax soft; then take them down and 
roll them one by one on a smooth table, and cut 
off the thick end as required. 

To make rush lights, &c. 

Take a quantity of rushes during the season, and 
strip off the skin from two sides thereof, leaving 
the pith bare. These, being quite dry, dip them 
in melted grease repeatedly, and a good light for all 
the purposes of a family, may thereby be obtained. 

If cotton varn, witiiout knots, be procured, and 
passed round a small stick, the ends being slightly 
twisted togetlier, good candles may be inade by 
separating these, and dipping them in the same 
kind of grease repeatedly; but suffering each stick 
of candles to cool a little between dip and dip. 
To make transparent dials for public clocks by 
night. 

The figures, and all the other external parts, are 
filed to an angle, so that they shall not cast a shade in 
the oblique directions of the sight. Two circles, the { 
oneexterioii, the other interior, have two grooves be- 
hind, for recei\ ing two thicknesses of glass, formed 
of several pieces, the parts of which are joined to- 
gether with cement behind the strips or little rods 
that form the figures; thus the joinings are not vi- 
sible outside. Between the two glasses is a piece 
of white cloth which completely enclosed by the 
ceraenl cannot be altered by time. To illuminate 
the transparent parts, first let the dial be fixed by 
its outer circle in a hole, made to fit it in the wall: 
then, in the interval between the dial and the move- 
ment, make a moveable inclosure carrying one or 
more reflectors, according to the size of the dial, 
opposite to one another, in order that the rod may 
not cast a shadow; a pipe is placed above the 
lights, to convey away the smoke and vapour of 
the oil. The hands should be varnished black, 
that they may appear of the same colour by day 
and by night. 

The form of the box enclosing the movement is 
a globe, proportioned to the size of the dial. The 
movement is carried by the dial, in order to have 
but one focus of the liglit; and tiien the centre of 
the dial remains opaque, aiul is varnished white for 
the day-light. The light is fixed to a door made i 
in the globe, diametrically opposite to the centre j 
of the dial, and a reflector is attached to the same 
door. 

To make grindstones. 

Take of river sand, three parts, of seed lac, 



washed, one part; mix them over a fire in a pot, 
and form the mass into the shape nf a grindstone, 
having a square hole in the centre; fix it on an axis 
with liquefied lac, heat the stone moderately, and 
by turning the axis it may easily be formed into an 
exact oi-bicular shape. Polishing grind stones ara 
made oidy of such sand as will pass easily thi-ough 
fine inualin, in the proportion of two parts of sand 
to one of lac. This sand is found at Ragimaul. It 
is composeil of small angular crystalline particles 
tinged red w ith iron, two (larts to one of black 
magnetic sand. The stone-cutters, instead of 
sand, use the powder of a very hard granite called 
corune. These grindstones cut very fast. When 
they want to increase their power they throw sand 
upon them, or let them occasionally toucli the edge 
of a vitrified brick. The same composition is 
formed upon sticks, for cutting stones, shells, &c. 
by the hand. 

Improved coffee pot. 

Amongst the new Parisian inventions is a coffee 
pot constructed of three pieces: the first is a plain 
boiler, over tiiat is a double filterer, and at the top 
is an inverted coffee pot, which fits on exactly. 
Cold water is placed in the first vessel, and th'e 
cofr'ce in the filtering-box. Under the whole is a 
spirit lamp, which in the course of five or six mi- 
nutes causes the water to boil, the vapour arising 
from which completely saturates the coflt-e. When 
the water boils, which is ascertained by the dis- 
charge of the vapour from the spout of the invert- 
ed coft'ee jiot, the whole machine is lifted from the 
lamp, and comi)letely inverted; so that the pot 
which was uppermost is at the bottom, and the 
boiling water, which had saturated the coffee, 
flows through the filterer, clear, into what was be 
fore the inverted coffee pot, where in the space of 
two minutes it is ready for use. This mode of 
preparing coffee is a saving of at least 25 per cent, 
and it secures the fine flavour of the berry. — In 
another part of the service is a coffee roaster, of 
glass, over another lamp of a long wide flame. 
The roasting requires about three minutes, and 
even so small a quantity as an ounce may be thus 
prepared. 

To -wash and cleanse linens, &c. 

Let the articles intended to be washed, be as- 
sorted according to their qualities of fineness, and 
having done this, put them into differe.it vessels 
containing warm water, at the temperature of 
about 100 or 130 deg. Fahr.; in this water dissolve 
about one-third or one-fourth of the soap which 
would be required to wash in the ordinary way, 
and to this a small quantity of peari ashes must be 
added. The clothes being entirely covered with 
this liquor, let them remain in soak for thirty-six 
or forty-eight hoiirs, after which, they are to be 
taken out of the liquor, and rinsed well in clean 
cold water, giving them a slight wringing, so that 
but little of the water may be retained in the 
clothes. 

A boiler containing as much water as will cover 
the clothes, intended to be washed at one opera- 
tion, is now to be heuted to about 100 degrees 
Fahrenheit, and the remaiidng quantity of soap 
(about two-thirds the sum used in all), with a litii 
tie pearl ashes, must now be introduced. When 
the soap is sufficiently dissolveil, the clothes may 
be put into the. liquor, taking care tb«t the finer 
articles are all kept by themselves, and operated 
upon first. The temperature of the liquor must 
now be gradually raised to the boiling point, dur- 
ing a space of twenty minutes or half an houi', not; 
faster; then let tlie whole boil for fifleeji or twenty 
minutes, after whicli llie first lot of clothes maybe 
taken out, and deposited iu a vessel contaiiiin.:j 
warm water. Jieiainiug the ley from the lirBt 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



397 



'boil, nnw fill up the vessel with water, and then 
'introduce the next coarser kind of articles, and 
'ojirrale upon tlieni as aliovc. 

The clothes thus treated are tlien to he carefidly 
'examined, and if any spots remain, which seldom 
'ballpens, liiey are to be washed hy tlie hand, giv- 
'ins^ the wiiole a slii^lit rub in the common wav. 
This process of boiling (contrary to the common 
'prejudice), will so effectually dislodge every greas_y 
ami dirty part, that more than three-fourlhs of the 
business is etfecled without any ruhbing whatever; 
and the clothes are ultimately rendered perfectly 
clean, i^y merely i-insing in cold water. 
Jiomedic's for tooth-acke. 

Take the inside of a nut gall, and put a small 
piece into Ihe hollow tooh, which is to be removed 
and rephiceil by another bit, about every half hour, 
«s long as white matter comes away with the piece 
taken out. 'The above has been found not only a 
temporary but a permanent cure. 

An'itlicr. — The following has been found very 
beiieticial in allaying ihe tooth-ache: Take of tinc- 
ture of opium, rectitied spirit of wine, each 3 oz. 
camphor, G drs. opium, powdered, 1^ (lo. pellitory 
of Spain, ^oz. Macerate for eight days. A small 
piece of fint or cotton is to be dipped into the 
tincture, and placed iu the cavity of the aftected 
tjolh. 

Another. — Take a sheet of common writing pa- 
per, fold it into a conical form, and set the larger 
end of it on lire, collect the smoke (which will is- 
sue copiously from the smaller end), iu a clean 
silver table spoon, and, when the paper is wholly 
consumed, a small quantity of oil will be found in 
the spoon. Then make a pellet of convenient 
size, and, having caused it to absorb as much ot the 
oil as will saturate it, put it carefully into the ca- 
rious to')lii. 

Especial care must be taken that the pellet is not 
too large, for, if that circumstance be not attended 
to, in loruing tlie pellet into the tooth, great part 
will be scpieezeii out. 

Another. — The well-known lady bird, cocaVic//a 
seldeinpitnctala, possesses a peculiar virtue against 
the tooth-ache. " 1 was induced (says Dr Frede- 
rick Hirs'jh, dentist to several German courts) to 
crllect some of those insects, and, on repeated tri- 
als, 1 found it to exceed my expectations, and 1 
Wiis so happy as to cure several pei-suns siieedily 
und completely with this small insect; finding my- 
self obliged to repeat the remedy only in the cases 
of a few female patients. My method of proceed- 
ing was as follows: — [ crushed the insect between 
tiiy lluuTib and fore-linger, and rubbed it between 
theuk till their points grew warm. Witli the fore- 
finger and thumb tims prepared, I then rubbed 
both tiie affected part of the gum and the aching 
tooth; upon which the pain, iu every instance, ex- 
cept iu the cases mentioned above, completely 
ceased. 1 found, likewise, that ihe medicinal vir- 
tue of this insect was so powerful and durable, that 
my fore-fmger was capable of removing tlie toolli- 
uche I'm- some days after, without crushing an in- 
sect ou it afresh. It is not to be expected, how- 
ever, that this insect, when preserved dead, should 
produce the like eflect; as then its internal parts, 
in which its virtue may be presumed chielly to re- 
side, are wholly dried up, leaving nothing but the 
•wings and an empty shell." 

Another. — Take 'a clean tobacco-pipe, place the 
bowl of it in the lire till red hot, put two or thre6 
pinches of henbane-seed into the bowl, over which 
put the broad part of a common funnel, the tube 
of the funnel against the tooth affected, so tiiat the 
Brooke arising from the seed may enter. As often 
as the pipe guts cold, heat it afresh, and put in 
more seed: continue this for about a quarter of au 



hour, and the pain, if not allayed immodiately, 
•will snon cease. This is a certain cure (at least ii 
i-eliof for some years) for tlie tooth-ache, 'i'lie 
seetl may be bought at any see<l-sho\>, and two jien- 
nyworth of it will jTerve lor twenty peoi)le. Care 
should be taken that the person, at^ter the perform- 
ance of this operation, does not take cold; iu order 
to pi'cvent this, it had better be performed shortly 
before the patient retires to rest. 

Oil for -ivatchmakers. 

Put some salad oil into a inatrass, or one of the 
Florence flasks in which it is iinjjorted, and pour 
on it eight times its weight of spirit of wine; beat 
tlie mixture until it is ready to boil, then pour off 
the spirit of wine, and let it stand to cool. A 
poi'tiou of solid, fatty matter, called stearine, sepa- 
rates, and is to be taken away; and then the spirit 
is to be evaporated away in a basin, or ilistilled in 
a glass retort, until only about one-fifth part is 
left; by this means the fluiil part of the oil or 
claine, as it is called, will be separated and depo- 
sited. This elaine ought to have the consistence 
of oil, be colourless, with little or no taste or 
smell; it should not discolour litmus paper, neither 
should it be easily congealable by frost. 
Croton l-u'l's for costiveness. 

Dr Coley, of Cheltenham, prescribes croton oil 
in conjunction with Castillo soap and an aromatic 
This composition sits pleasantly on the stomach, 
anil operates efficaciously on the intestinal canal. 
The following formula has been found very effica- 
cious in cases of obstinate costiveness: — Take of 
Castillo soap, h drachm^ oil of the seeds of the 
croton tiglium, oil of cloves, each 9 drops. After 
being well blended in a marble mortar, and formed 
into a proper mass with liquorice powder, it is to 
be divided into 10 pills, two of which may be ad- 
ministered for a dose. If this quantity should not 
operate sufficiently on the bowels in the course of 
6 hours, one or two more may be given. The root 
of the tiglium is considered, by the native doctors 
of Amboyna and Hatavia, to be a specific for dropsy. 
In the Materia Mcdica of Ilindostan, as much oif 
the shavings, or raspings, as can be taken up by 
the thum!) and finger, is directed to be taken tor a 
dose. The root is both aperient and diuretic. 
Deafness in old persons. 

This is usually accompanied with confused 
sounds, and noises of various kinds in the inside 
of the ear itself. In such cases, insert a piece of 
cotton wool, ou which a very little oil of cloves or 
cinnamon has been dropped; or which has been 
dip[)ed in 'qual parts of aromatic siiirit of ammo- 
nia, and tincture of lavender. The ear-trumpet 
ought likewise to be occasionally used. 
Indian cure for the ear-ache. 

Take a piece of the lean of mutton, about the 
size of a large walnut, put it into the fire, and burn 
it f jr some time, till it becomes reduced almost to 
a cinder; then put it into a piece of clean rag, and 
squeeze it until some moisture isexpresseil, which 
must be dropped into the ear as hot as the patient 
can bear it. 

Dr Jiabbingtoii's remedy for indigestion attended 
■with costiveness. 

Take of infusion of columbo, Goz. carbonate of 
potass, 1 drachm, compound tincture of gentian, 3 
ditto. Mix. Three table-spoonsful are to be 
taken every day at noon. 

To remove indigestion, flatulency, and pains of 
the stomach after eating. 

Take half a wine-glassful of the tollowing mix- 
ture a quarter of an hour after dinner:- -Magnesia 
and carbonate of soda, of each 2 drachms; spirits 
of sal volatile, 4 drachms; and distilled or pure 
water, 1 pint. Tliis also is an excellent cure for 
heart-burn, and may be tukou without injury by 



598 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the most delicate constitutions. It is also an ex- 
cellent medicine to ()rotnote sleej), for which pur- 
pose a wine-glassful may he taken at hed lime. 
The truaco in hyilrnphobia. 

In the New Montlily Magazine for October, 
18'26, is the followino; statement of the efficacy of 
the guaco for the cure of the liite of a mad dog, 
{mblished by the gentleman who first made use of 
the plant in South America, as an antidote to that 
scourge of human nature, hydrophohia; his words 
are, " I shall simply state, that during my residence 
in South America, I had frequent opportunities of 
•witnessing the direful effects of hydrophobia, with- 
out having in any one case that came under my 
care been successful in its cure by the usual modes 
prescribed in Europe. It fortunately occurred to 
ine, that the guaco, so celebrated for curing the 
Lite or oting of all venomous snakes, might prove 
equall)' efficacious in hytlrophobic cases. How far 
my idea was correct that an analogy existed be- 
tween the virus of a serpent and that of a rabid 
dog, I leave to others to determine; but such was 
my opinion, and I acted upon it in all subsequent 
cases with complete success. 

Mutton hams. 

The Journal des Connoissances Usuelles gives 
the following method of curing legs of mutton like 
ham: — It is necessary that the mutton should be 
very fat. Two ounces of r.iw sugar ntiust be mixed 
with an ounce of common salt aad half a spoonful 
of saltpetre. The meat is to be rubbed well with' 
this, and then placed in a tureen. It must be 
beaten and turned twice a day during three con- 
secutive days; and the scum wiiich comes from tlie 
meat having been taken off, it is to be wiped, and 
again rubbed with the mixture. The next day it 
should be again beaten, and tlie two operations 
ought to be repeated alternately during ten days, 
care being taken to turn the meat each time. It 
must be then exposed to the smoke for ten days. 
These hams are generally eaten cold. 

To make kitchen vegetables tender. 

When peas, French beans, &c. do not boil easily, 
it has usually been imputed to the coolness of the 
season, or to the rains. Tiiis popular notion is 
erroneous. The difficulty of boiling them soft 
arises from an excess of gypsum imbibed during 
their growth. To correct this, throw a small 
quantity of subcarbonate of soda into the pot along 
with the vegetables. 

Transplaiiting shrubs in full groioth. 

Dig a narrow trench round the plant, leaving its 
roots in the middle in an isolated ball of earth; 
fill the trench witii plaster of Paris, wliich will be- 
come hard in a few minutes, and form a case to 
the ball and plant, which may be lifted and re- 
moved any where at pleasure. 

Freezing mixture. 

A cheap and powerful freezing mixture may he 
made by pulverizing glauber's salts finely, and 
placing it level at the bottom of a glass vessel. 
Equal parts of sal ammoniac and nitre are then to 
be finely powdered, and mixed together, and sub- 
sequently added to the glauber's salts, stirring the 
powders well together; after wliich adding water 
sufficient to dissolve the salts, a degree of cold. will 
be produced, frequently below Zero of Fahren- 
heit. But Mr Walker states, tliat nitrate of am- 
monia, phosphate of soda, and diluted nitric acid, 
will on the instant produce a reduction of tem- 
perature amounting to 80 degrees. It is desirable 
to reduce the temperature of tiie substances pre- 
viously, if convenient, by placing tlie vesse'ls in 
water, with nitre powder thrown in occasionally. 
Method of clearing trees from -worms, caterpillars. 

The following; method of driving worms, cater- 



pillars, and all other sorts of insects, from trees, 
has lately been practised with singular success:—— 
Hore a hole into the trunk of the tree, as far as 
the heart; fill this hole with sulphur, and place in 
it a well fitted plug; a tree of from four to eight 
inches diameter, requires a hole large enough to 
admit the little finger, and in the same proportion, 
for larger or smaller trees. This will usually 
drive the insects away in the coiu'se of 48 hours, 
but uniformly succeeds, perhaps sometimes after a 
longer period. 

On clearing feathers from their animal oil. 

Take, for every gallon of clean water, I pound 
of quick lime; mix them well to.gether; and, wlieti 
the undissolve<! lime is precipitated in fine powder, 
pour off the clear lime-water for use, at the time it 
is wanted. Put the feathers to be cleaned into ano- 
ther tub; and add to them a quantity of the clear 
lime water, sufficient to cover the feathers about 
three inches, when well immersed and stirred 
about therein. 

The feathers, when thorouglily moistened, will 
sink down, and should remain in the lime-water 
tiiree or four days; after which, the foul liquor 
should be separated from the feathers, by laying 
them on a sieve, to drain. 

The feathers should be afterwards well washed 
in clean water, and dried upon nets; the meshes of 
which should be about the fineness of those of cab- 
ba.ge-nets. 

The feathers must, from time to time, be shaken 
upon the nets: and, as they dry, they will fall 
through the meshes; and are to be collected, in 
order to be beaten, as usual, for use. 

The admission of air will be serviceable in the 
drying; and the whole process will be completed 
in about three weeks. 

The value of the foregoing process was testeel by 
several samples of feathers, all of which were per- 
fectly cleansed from their animal oil; one parcel 
had been stoved for three days, hut still retained 
their unpleasant smell, which was completely re- 
moved by the lime-water. 

After the feathers have been cleansed and dried, 
they are put into a strong bag, like a bed tick, 
which is laid upon a stage, and beaten with long 
poles, like broom-handles, until the feathers are 
perfectly light and lively. 

To salt meat. 

In the summer season, especially, meat is fre- 
quently spoiled by the cook forgetting to lake out 
the kernels: one in the udder of a round of beef, — 
in the fat in the middle of the round, — those about 
the thick end of tlie flank, &c.; if these are not taken 
out, all the salt in the world will not keep the meal. 

The art of salting meat is to rub in the salt tho- 
roughly and evenly into every part, and to fill all 
the holes full of salt where the kernels were takei) 
out, and where the butcher's skewers were. 

A round of beef of 25 pounds will take a pound 
and a half of salt to be rubbed in all at first, and 
requires to be turned and rubbed every day with 
the brine: it will be ready for dressing in tour or 
five days, if you do not wish it very salt. 

In summer, the sooner meat is salted after it is 
killed the better, and care must be taken to defend 
it from the flies. 

In winter, it will eat the sliorter and tenderer 
if kept a few days ^according to the temperature 
of the weather) before it is salted. 

In frosty weather, take care the meat is not fro-' 
zen, and warm the salt in a frying-pan. The e.t-' 
tremes of heat and cold are equally unfavourable 
for the process of salting; in the former the meat 
changes before llie salt can eftect it; in the latter 
it is so hardened, and the juices are so congealed, 
that the salt caunot penetra'e it. 



MlbCELLANEOUS. 



399 



If you wish it red. rub it first with snltpetre, in 
tlie proportion of half an ounce and the like quan- 
tity of moist sugar, to a pound of common salt. 

You may impregnate meat with a very agreeable 
vegetable iiavour, by pounding some sweet herbs 
and onions with the salt: you may make it still 
more relished by adding a little savoury spice. 
I'o pickle meat. 

Six pounds of salt, one pound of sugar, and four 
ounces of salti>elre, boiled with four gallons of 
■water skimmed, and allowed to cool, forms a verj' 
strong pickle, which will preserve any meat com- 
pleteh' immersed in it. To effect this, which is 
essential, either a heavy board or a flat stone must 
he laid upon the meat. The same jjickle may be 
used repeatedly, provided it be boiled up occa- 
sionally with additional salt to restore its strength, 
fliminished by the combination of part of the salt 
with the meat, and by the dilution of the pickle 
by tlie juices of the meat extracted. Hy boiling, 
tlie albumen which would cause the pickle to spoil 
is coagulated and rises in tlie form of scum, which 
must be carefully re-moved. 

An H-hone of 10 or 1'2 pounds weight will re- 
quire about three quarters of a pound of salt and 
an ounce of moist sugar to be well rubbed into it — 
will be ready in four or five days, if turned and 
rubbed every day. 

I'he time meat requires salting depends upon 
the weight of it, and how much salt is used. If it 
be rubbed in wiili a heavy hand, it will be ready 
much sooner than if only lightly rubbed. 

N. B. Dry tlie salt and rub it with the sugar in 
a mortar. 

Pork requires a longer time to cure (in ])ropor- 
tion to its weight) than beef: a leg of pork should 
be iu salt eight or ten days; turn it and rub it every 
day. 

Salt meat should be well washed before it is 
boiled, especially if it has been in salt long, that 
the liquor in which the meat is boiled, may not be 
too salt to make soup of. 

If it has been in salt a long time, and you think 
it will be too salt, wash it well in cold water, and 
soak it in lukewarm water for a couple of hours: 
if it is very salt, lay it in water the night before 
you intend to dress it. 

JPermanent a?id portable apparatus for purifying 
the air. 

An apparatus for purifying the air, on the prin- 
ciples of Guy ton Morveau, has been lately intro- 
duced into several of the French hospitals, which 
possesses the advantage of being portable, and of 
retaining its properties for a considerable time. It 
consists of a vessel of thick glass, containing about 
six decilitres (1^ wine pint nearly). The edge 
of tiie vessel, which is strong, is ground very ac- 
curately, and covered with a disk of glass, which 
seals it hermetically. 

This vessel is fixed in a small plank, which sup- 
ports a frame of wood, in the form of a press, and 
js provided with a screw to raise or lower the 
plate of glass, in order to open or shut the appa- 
ratus at jdeasure. 

To produce the disinfecting gas, 40 grammes 
(lA oz.) of black oxide of manganese, powdered 
and passed through a hair sieve, is put into the 
vessel; afterwards one decilitre (l-6th of the ca- j 
pacity)of pure nitric acid, of 1.40 specific gravity, 
and an equal volume of muriatic acid, of 1.13 spe- 
cific gravity, is poured over it. 

When the mixture is made, the glass cover is 
pressed strongly down by means of the screw, care 
being taken that there is no dirt on the edge of the 
vessel to prevent it from fitting close. Two-thirds 
of the vessel must always be kept empty to contain 
the Eras. 



To purify any place whatever, it is sufficient to 
unscrew one turn of the pressure screw, and to 
leave the apparatus oi)en one or two miiuiles, ac- 
cording to the size ot the place to be purified: the 
expansion of the gas will be soon perceivell through 
the whole of the apartment: the apparatus is then 
to be closed. 

The effects of this apparatus will continue for 
about six months, using it daily: and when they 
cease, the vessel is emptied and washed out, and 
the ingredients renewed in the proportions indi- 
cated. 

This is of gi-eat utility in purifying the air of 
hospitals, pri sons, workshops, &c. where the num- 
ber of persons, or any other cause, renders such a 
measure necessary. The only precaution the use 
of it requires is, to avoid the spontaneous respira- 
tion of the gas immediately on its issuing from the 
vessel, which, without being dangerous, would be 
disagreeable. 

Similar apparatuses on a smaller scale are also 
made, which are enclosed in a box-wood case, aud 
carried in the pocket. 

ji metfiod of preserving lime-juice. 

The juice having been expressed from the fruit, 
was strained, and put into quart bottles: these hav- 
ing been carefully corked, were put into a pan of 
cold water, which was then by degrees raised to 
the boiling point. At that temperature it was 
kept for half an hour, and was then allowed to cool 
down to the temperature of the air. After being 
bottled for 8 months the juice 'was in the stale of a 
whitish, turbid liquor, with the acidity, and much 
of the flavour of the lime; nor did it appear to have 
undergone any alteration. Some of the juice, which 
had been examined the)'ear before, and which hail 
since only been again heated, and carefully bot- 
tled, was still in good condition, retaining much of 
the flavour of the recent juice. Hence, it appears 
that by the application of the above process, the 
addition of rum, or other spirit, to lime or lemon 
juice, may be avoided, without rendering it at all 
more liable to spontaneous alteration. 

Balsamic and anti-putrid vinegar. 

Take rue, sage, mint, rosemaiy, and lavender, 
fresh gathered, of each a handful, cut them small, 
and put them into a stone jar, pour upon the herbs 
a pint of the best while-wine vinegar; cover the 
jar close, and let it stand 8 days in the sun, or near 
a fire; then strain it oft", and dissolve in it an ounce 
of camphor. This liquid, sprinkled about the 
sick chamber, or fumigated, will much revive the 
patient, and prevent the attendants from receiving 
infection. 
For bites and stings of small reptiles and insects. 

The local pain produced by the bites anil stings 
of reptiles and insects, in general, is greatly re- 
lieved by the following applicatioji. Make a lotion 
of five ounces of distilled water, and one ounce 
of tincture of opium. To be applied immediately. 

Another. — Mix 5^ ounces of distilled water, an<l 
^ an ounce of water of ammonia. Wash the part 
repeatedly with this lotion until the pain abates. 
On softening cast iron, by J\lr Strickland. 

" There has been a method lately discovered, to 
make cast metal soft and malleable; and there are 
already many large manufactories ])Ut up for this 
very important process. 1 have visited one of 
them in London, and witnessed the uperation. 
The method consists, in placing the cast metal in 
a case or pot, along with, and surrounded by, a 
soft, red ore, found in Cumberland, and other 
parts of England. The cases are then \iut into a 
common oven, built with fire-bricks, and without 
a chimney, where they are heated with coal or 
coke, placed upon a fire-grate. The doors of the 
oven are closed, and but a slight draft of stir per- 



400 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



mitted under the grate; and thus a re^'ilar heat is 
k<.;i)t up, for the sp;vee of seven diiys, or two 
weeks, ilependins^ ou the tliickness riiul weight of 
the castings. The cases are then taken our, and 
suffered tn cool, and the hardest cast metid is, by 
the operation, rendered so soft and malleable, that 
it may be welded together, or, when in acohl state, 
hent into almost any shajie by a hammer or vice. 
In tliis manner are all articles, sueli as harness 
buckles, bridle bits, horse shoes, and even nails, 
made tough and malleable. Cast horse shoes, 
submitted to this process, have, after being worn 
out by the action of the horses' feet, been_ con- 
verted into penknives, and other articles of cut- 
lery, of a superior quality. I have procured a speci- 
men of the red ore used in tliis vahial)le process, 
tngetlier with a few articles of the iiardest cast 
iron, which have been softened, and rendered per- 
fectly malleal)le. Those castings, hovverer, whicli 
are made from pig iron coutaining the smallest 
portion of carbon, are the best adapted Jbr con- 
version into malleable iron: the only etTV'ct i)ro- 
duced by the introduction of the i-e<l ore, along 
uith the metal, is to deprive it of its carbon." 

The Cumbei'land red ore is, it ajjpei'.rs, found 
in various parts of the Island of Great liritain, and 
tiiere are, uiuloubtedly, several varieties of iron ore 
in tiie United States, which will answer l!ie same 
purpose. The Cumlieriand ore is prol)ably an ar- 
gilfacoous oxide of iron. 'I'he Hematetic iron ore, 
which consists of oxide of iron, silex, andalumine, 
has been successfuUy used in England, but as it is 
•a very hard substance, the diffionlty of reducing it 
to powder, in sufficient quantities, is a bar to its 
employment in the large way. The ochery red 
n\ide of iron (red-ochre) is known to abound 
in many of the states, and is, probably, similar to 
that of Cumberland The JJog-ore, so abundant 
in New Jersey, and in many other places, would 
be likely to answer the purpose, -.viieu not conla- 
rniuated by phosphate of iron. 
J\'ighl marc. 

Articles of food, most likely to produce night- 
mare, are cucumbers, nuts, apples, and all such 
things as generally produce flatulence. The pa- 
roxysm of night-mare does not always immediate- 
ly follow the eating any improper food, but some- 
limes several days elapse before its attack. In 
this case it is easier to foresee, and consequently 
to prevent it. The signs by which its approach 
may be known are vnusual drowsiness, disagreea- 
ble dreams, and disturbed sleep, with wind in the 
stomach and bowels. In this case immediate re- 
course should be had to the carbonate of soda, or 
to eitlier of tlie following draughts, whicii may be 
taken at bed-time: — Mix together 10 grains of 
carbonate of soda, 3 drachms of com[)ound tinc- 
tiu-e of cardamoms; I drachm of simple syrup; 
and I oz. of peppermint water. 

Another. — Mix together U) grains of prepared 
•immonia; I drachm of tincture of capsicum; 1 
drachm of syrup of saffron; and 10 drachms of 
cirmaraon water. — Should these medicines not pro- 
duce any relaxation of the bowels, it will be ne- 
cessary the following morning to take a dose of 
.some of the neutral purging salts, or what will an- 
swer equally well, the following aperient draught: 

Anotlwr. — Mix together 15 grains of magnesia; 
15 grains of rhubarb powder; 8 grains of carbo- 
nate of soda; 1 drachm of simple syrup; ami 11 
drachms of peppermint water. — To those persons 
w ho are habituaUy subject to night-mare, we would 
advise the frequent repetition of one or other of 
the draughts, for several nights in succession; af- 
ter which the aperient draught may l)e taken if 
necessary; fend costiveness is in all cases to be 
avoided. 1 



On the means nf jireventhiff or eTtingiiisldng^Jtres 
in steam hoats, by pro feasor linhert Hare. 

In the hrst phtce, the flues and the furnace may 
be so situated, that the wootl work can in no case 
be set on fire by them. In the second place, by 
means of a capacious pump to be worked by the 
engine, and other ])Umps in different parts of the 
vessel, to be worked by the crew and passengers, n 
torrent of water might in a few moments, by the 
aid of hoses and pipes, be directed upon the fire. 

It would be highly important to have also a 
number of leather lire buckets hung up in an ap- 
propriate place, and ke|it in order; also, buckets 
with ropes' attached to them, to di-aw up water by 
hand. The crew shoulil be trained to use the 
])umps, the hoses, and the buckets for drawing wa- 
ter. If a due degree of discipline were established 
among them, the efforts of the passengers would 
soon take the same direction; so that their imm- 
bers would tend to diminish the danger, instead 
of rendering it greater. 

There should be at least foui- good hand pumps, 
two forward and two aft, besides the pump to bo 
wrought by the engine. From this ])ump, whicli 
could alwavs be used when the fire should not be 
so situated as to incapacitate the machiner}', two 
j iron pipes should proceed, one to the forward, the. 
I other to the after |)art of the boat; to these pi])e3 
there should be large cocks with hose permanently 
attadied, of length sufficient to command the 
greater part of the boat. Each hose should always 
be ke()t upon a reel; so that on the captain's giving 
an order to work the fire pump, either might be 
immediately ready for use, and the water spout- 
ing, from the terminating pipe, be under the di- 
rection of one of the crew, who should be trained 
for that purpose, to know his post, and perform his 
duty with skill and agility. 

Remedy for Jinx. 

Take of catechu, in powder, simaronba bark, 
cinnamon, each 2 dr. boiling water, 1 pint. Ma- 
cerate foi- 4 hours in a covered vessel; strain. Now, 
take off^ the strained liquor, 7 oz. com])ound tinc- 
ture of cardamoms, 1 oz. opium confection, 1 dr. 
Make into a mixture, of which take two table- 
spoonsful 4 limes a day. Excellent in fluxes of all 
kinds. 

Dysentery and bilious disorders. 

The medical qualities of pulverized charcoal 
are daily developing themselves. In addition to 
its value in bilious disorders, two ounces of the 
charcoal, boiled in a pint of fresh milk, may be 
taken in doses of a wine-glassful, by adults, every 
two hours, in the most obstinate dysentery, until 
relief is imparted, which has not failed to be the 
effect in almost every instance. It is harmless, and 
the experiment may be safely tried. Charcoal 
made fronj maple wood is the fittest for this pur- 
pose. 

Fine black comir. 

*' Take some camphor, and set it on fire; from 
the flame will arise a very dense smoke, which 
might be collected in the same way as the lamp- 
black, in the manufactories of that article. As I 
have not required much at a time, I have generally 
collected it on a common saucer, by holding it 
over the flame. This black, mixed with gum ara- 
ble, is far superior to any India ink I have ever 
seen imported; I have also used it ground in oil." 

Mirdattu-e painters, who use colours in small 
quantities, sometimes obtain a most beautiful and 
perfect black, by using the buttons which form on 
the snuft' of a candle, «dien allowed to burn un- 
disturbed. Tl)ese are made to fall into a small 
thimble, or any other convenient vessel which can 
be immediately covered with the thumb, to ex- 
clude the air. I'his is found to be perfectly free 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



401 



from grease, and to possess everj' desirable qua- 
lity. 

A For rheumatic gout. 

I The followina; meiJicine, ])reseribed by Dr Bail- 
lie, has always been foynd to succeed in removing 
rheumatic gout, and in allaying the general excite- 
ment of the brain and nervous system, wiiich uni- 
formly acconijjanies it: — Take of campliorated 
mixture, " drachms, infusion of rhubarb, 5 do. 
tincture of henbane, A a drachm, sub-carbonate of 
potass, 10 gr;iins. Alix for a draught. To be 
taken two or three times a day, particularly the 
last thing at night. 

Jf'ash leather under xvaistcoats. — In several in- 
stances, t'le best effects have occurreil from wear- 
ing washing leatlier over flannel, as a preservative 
against the conseciuence of those exposures to which 
all are more or less liable. A waistcoat of this 
material w ill, in many cases, supersede the neces- 
sity of, and prove a more elfeclive barrier against 
cold, than a great coat, and often even after tlie es- 
tablishment of a rheumatism which refuses to give 
Way before the most powerful medicine, clolliing 
ilie parts affected with leather will almost imme- 
diately eftect an easy cure. 

J)ropsy. 

The following receipt was given to the late 
countess of Shaftesbury by the ]>rior of the Bene- 
dictine monastery of Corbie, in Picardy. 

Take of broom-seed, well powdered, and sifted, 
1 drachm. Let it steep twelve hours in a glass and 
a half of good rich wliite wine, and take it in the 
morning, fasting, having first shaken it so that the 
■whole may be swallowed. Let the patient walk 
fifter it, if able, or let her use what exercise she 
can without fatigue, for an hour and a half; after 
■which, let her take 2 oz. of olive oil; and not eat 
or drink any thing in less tlvAn half an hour after- 
■wards. Let this be repeated eveiy day, or once in 
three days, and not oftener till a cure 'is effected; 
and do not let blood, or use any other remedy dur- 
ing the course. 

Notliing can be more gentle and safe than the 
operation of this i-emedy. If the dropsy is in the 
bodj% it discharges it by urine, without any incon- 
venience: if it is between the skin and Hesh, it 
causes blisters to rise on tiie legs, by which it will 
run oft'; but this does not happen to more than one 
in thirty: and in this case no plasters must be used, 
but apply red cabbage leaves. It cures dropsy in 
pregnant women, witiiout injury to the niotlier or 
child. It also alleviates asthma,' consumption, and 
disurders of tlie liver. 

Prevention of fire in theatres. 

In consequence of the frequent occurrence of 
fires in theatres, particular precautions have been 
taken with the theatre of the Port bt Martin, at 
Paris. A thick wall of hewn stone separates the 
audience part from the scenic part of tlie house; 
all the doors in it are of iron, and may be shut in- 
stantly in case of fire; finally, the insulation of the 
spectators from the stage is made perfect by means 
of a screen of plates of iron, which falls down be- 
fore the stage. This screen, which weighs betw een 
1,'200 and 1,300 pounds, is easily worked by two 
men, and slides up and down upon guides, so as 
readily to take its place. Besides these jirecau- 
tions, reservoirs of water are established in the 
i-oof, which may be connected, when necessary, 
■with vessels of compressed air, and made to throw 
a powerful jet over a very large part of the build- 

Tanning. 

A tanner, named Kapedius, of Bern Castel, on 

the Moselle, has iliscovered a new species of tan 

proper for dressing leather. It is the plant know n 

by the name of bilberry or whortleberry, (vaccini- 



um myrtihis ormyrtiIlis,J which should be gather- 
ed in spring, because at tlus season it dries more 
readily, and is more easily ground. Three pounds 
and a half of this tan suffice for dressing a pound 
of leather, while six pounds are requireil from tlie 
oak to produce the same elfect. By this new pro- 
cess, tanners can gain four months out of the time 
required for preparing strong leather. A com- 
mission having been appointed at Treves to ex- 
amine the leather so prepared, reported, that they 
had never seen any as good, and that every pair 
of shoes made therefrom lasts two months more 
than what are manufactured from common leather; 
that the skin of the neck, which it is difficult to 
work, becomes strong and elastic like that of the 
other parts. The shrub should not be ]>ulled up, 
but cut with a bill, to obtain the reproduction of 
the plant the following year. When cut, damp 
does not deteriorate it, which is not the case witli 
oak bark, which loses ten per cent, of its value by 
being wetted. 

JMetUod of obtaining roses of all kinds twice in the 
year. 

The follo'tt'ing directions, by M. Douette Richar- 
dot, are to enable the amateur to gather as fine roses 
in September as he did in the preceding June:— • 
1. Immediately after the first flowering, the shrub 
is to be deprived of every leaf, and those branches 
which have borne roses eut, so that only two or 
three buds shall remain. The cutting of the weak- 
er branches may be in a less degree. If the weather 
be dry when the leaves are removed, it will be ne- 
cessary to tiioroughly water the stem, for several 
days, with the rose of the watering-pot: in this 
way the sap will not be arrested, ii. Then the 
brush is to be used, and the rose tree well cleansed 
by it, so that all mouldiness bhall disappear: this 
operation is very easy after an abundant rain. 3. 
The earth about the rose tree is to be disturbed, 
and then twenty-four sockets of calves' feet are to 
be placed in the egirth round the i':em, and about 
four inches distant from it. The hoofs of young 
calves are the best, and give a vivid colour and 
agreeable perfume to the roses. Tiiese are to be 
placed with thejioints downwards, so that the cups 
shall be nearly level with the surface of the earth, 
and the plant well surrounded. This operation is 
to be repeated in the November following. These 
hoofs, dissolved by the rain or the waterings, form 
an excellent manure, which hastens the vegetation, 
and determines the reproduction of flowers. 4. 
Two waterings per week will suffice in ordinary 
weather, and they should be made with the rose 
of the watering-pot, so that the hoofs m.iy be filled; 
but, if the atmosphere is diy, it will be necessary 
to water the plants eveiy evening; and in the lat- 
ter case it will be necessary, from time to time, to 
direct the stream of water on to the head of the 
tree. 

Gooseberry arid entrant -wines. 

The following method of making superior goose- 
ben^y and currant wines is recommended in a 
French work; — For currant wine, eight pounds of 
honey are dissolved in fifteen gallons of boiling 
\Tater, to which, when clarified, is added the juice 
of eight pounds of red or white currants. It is 
then fermented for twenty-four hours, and two 
pounds of sugar to every two gallons of water are 
added. The preparation is afterwards clarified 
with the whites of eggs and crearii of tartar. — For 
gooseberry wine, the fruit is gathered diy when 
about half ripe, and then pounded in a mortar.. 
The juice, when properly strained through a can- 
vas bag, is mixed with sugar, in the proportion of 
three pounds to every two galUns of juice. It is 
then left in a quiet slate for fifteen days, at the ex- 
piration of which it is carefully poured otl", and 

2 n 



402 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



left to ferment for three months when the quantity 
is under fifteen gallons, and for five months when 
double that quantity. It is then bottled, and soon 
oecomes fit for (h-inking. 
' To solder tortoise-shell. 

To solder two pieces of shell together, the two 
edges which are to be joined, must be bevelled, or 
chamfered; taking care that the same inclination 
be given to both, and that they may perfectly fit 
each other. They are then to be placed owe upon 
the other, and when the joint is well fitted, a strip 
of paper is to be wrapped firmly round them, so as 
to form three or four thicknesses; the whole should 
be secured by a piece of thread. A pair of pin- 
cers resembling small smiths' tongs, or the pinch- 
ing irons used by hair dressers, must be heated, 
the mouth of which must be of sufRciest length to 
embrace the whole joint; these are to be squeezed 
together, until the shell will bend by its own 
■weight, or by the application of a small force with 
the finger. The tongs are then to be removed, and 
when cooled, tlie piece will be found to be per- 
fectly soldered. Care must be taken that the 
tongs be not too much heated, otherwise, instead 
of soldering, they will burn the shell: to prevent 
this, they must be tried by pinching white paper 
between them; when they are of sucb a tempera- 
ture as to scorch it very slightly, they are then fit 
for use. ' 

Qualities of the animal arid vegetable food com- 
monly used in diet. 

Seef — When this is the flesh of a bullock of 
middle age, it affords good and strong nourishment, 
and is peculiarly well adapted to tliose who labour, 
or take much exercise. It will often sit easy upon 
stomachs that can digest no other kind of food; 
and its fat is almost as easily digested as that of 
veal. 

Veal is a proper food for persons recovering 
from indisposition, and may even be given to fe- 
brile patients in a very weak state, but it affords 
less nourishment than the flesh of the same animal 
in a state of maturity. The fat of it is lighter than 
that of any other animal, and shows the least dis- 
position to putrescency. Veal is a very suitable 
food in costive habits; but of all meat it is the least 
calculated for removing acidity from the stomach. 

JMutton, from the age of four to six years, and 
fed on dry pasture, is an excellent meat. It is of 
a middle kind between the firmness of beef and 
the tenderness of veal. The lean part of mutton, 
however, is the most nourishing and conducive to 
health; the fat being hard of digestion. The head 
of the sheep, especialljMvhen divested of tlie skin, 
is very tender; and the feet, on account of the 
jelly they contain, are highly nutritive. 

Lamb is not so nourishing as mutton; but it is 
light, and extremely suitable to delicate stomachs. 

House lamb, though much esteemed by many, 
possesses the bad qualities common to the flesh of 
all animals reared in an unnatural manner. 

Pork affords rich and substantial nourishment; 
and its juices are wholesome when jjroperly fed, 
and when the animal enjoys pure air and exercise. 
But the flesh of hogs reared in towns is both hard 
of digestion and unwholesome. Pork is particu- 
larly improper for those who are liable to any 
foulness of the skin. It is almost proverbial, that 
ft dram is good for promoting its digestion: but 
this is an erroneous notion; for though a dram may 
give a momentary stimulus to the coats of the sto- 
mach, it tends to harden the flesh, and of course to 
make it more indigestible. 

Smoked hams jire a strong kind of meat, and 
rather fit for a relisli than for diet. It is the quali- 
ty of all salted meat that the fibres become rigid, 
and tliei'efore more difficult of digest ou; and when 



to this is added smoking, the heat of the chimney 

occasions the salt to concentrate, and the fat between 
the muscles sometimes to become rancid. 

Bacon is also of an indigestible quality, and is 
apt to turn rancid on weak stomachs; but for those 
in health it is an excellent food, especially when 
used with fowl or veal, or even eaten with peas, 
cabbages, or cauliflowers. 

Goafs flesh is hard and indigestible; hut that 
of kids is tender, as well as delicious, and affords 
good nourishment. 

Venison, or the flesh of deer, and that of hares, 
is of a nourishing (juulity, but is liable to the in- 
convenience, that, though nmch disposed to pu- 
trescency of itself, it must be kept for a little time 
before it becomes tender. 

The blood of animals \s used as an aliment by 
the common iieople, but they could not long sub- 
sist upon it unless mixed with oatmeal. Sec: for it 
is not very soluble, alone, by the digestive powers 
of the human stomach, and therefore cannot prove 
nourishing. 

Milk is of very different consistence in different 
animals; but that of cows being the kind used in 
diet, is at present the oliject of our attention. Milk, 
where it agrees with the stomach, affords excellent 
nourishment for those who are weak, and cannot 
digest oilier aliments. It does not readily become 
putrid, but it is apt to become sour on the stomach, 
and thence to produce flatulence, heart-burn, or 
gripes, and in some constitutions a looseness. The 
best milk is from a cow at three or four years of 
age, about two montiis after producing a calf. It 
is lighter, but more watery, than the milk of sheep 
and goats; while, on the other hand, it is more 
thick and heavy than the milk of asses and mares, 
which are next in consistence to human milk. 

On account of the acid which is generated after 
digestion, milk coagulates in all stomachs; but the 
caseous or cheesy part is again (iissolved by the di- 
gestive juices, and rendered fit for the purposes 
of nutrition. It is improper to eat acid substances 
with milk, as these would tend to prevent the due 
digestion of it. 

Cream is very nourishing, but, on account of its 
fatness, is difficult to be digested in weak stomachs. 
Violent exercise, after eating it, will, in a little 
time, convert it into butter. 

Batter. — Some writers inveigh against the use 
of butter as universallj' pernicious; but they might 
with equal reason condemn all vegetable oils, which 
form a considerable ])art of diet in the southern 
climates, and seem to have been beneficially in- 
tended by nature for that purpose. Butter, like 
every other oily substance, has doubtless a relaxing 
quality, and if long retained in the stomach, is lia- 
ble to become rancid; but, if eaten in moderation, 
it will not produce those effects. It is, however, 
improper in bilious constitutions. The worst, con- 
sequence produced by butter, wlien eaten with 
bread, is, that it obstructs the discharge of the sa- 
liva, in the act of mastication or chewing; by which 
means the food is not so easily digested. To ob- 
viate this effect, it would be a connnendable prac- 
tice at breakfast, first to eat some dry bread, and 
chew it well, till the salivary glands were exhaust- 
ed, and afterwards to eat it with butter. By these 
means such a quantity of saliva might be carried 
into the stomach as would be sufficient for the pur- 
pose of digestion. 

Cheese is likewise reprobated by many as ex- 
tremely unwholesome. It is doubtless not easy of 
digesiion;,and when eaten in a great (juanlity, may 
overload the stomach; but iC taken sitaringly, its 
tenacity may be dissolved by the digestive juices, 
and it may yield a wholesome, though not very 
nourishing chyle. Toasted eheese is agreeable to 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



403 



most palates, but it is rendered more indigestible 
by that process. 

JTowls. — The flesh of birds differs in quality ac- 
cording; to the food on wliich they live. Sucli as 
feed upon grain and berries, afford, in general, 
good nourishment; if wp except geese and ducks, 
•which are hard of digestion, especially tlie former. 
A young hen or chicken is tender and delicate 
food, and extremely well adapted where the diges- 
tive powers are weak. But of all lame fowls, the 
capon is the most nutritious. 

Turkeys, &c. — Turkeys, .'is well as Guine.'\ or 
India fowls, afford a substantial nutriment, but are 
not so easy of digestion as the common domestic 
fowls. In all birds those parts are the most firm, 
■which are most exercised: in the small birds, 
therefore, the wings, and in the larger kinds the 
legs, ai-e commoidy llie most difficult of digestion. 

Jf'ild fuxvls. — The flesh of wild birds, in gene- 
ral, though more easily digested, is less nourishing 
tlian that of q\iadrupeds, as being more dry on ac- 
count of their almost constant exercise. Those 
birds are not wholesome which subsist upon worms, 
insects, and fishes. 

Es^g'S. — Tlie eggs of birds are a simple and 
■wholesome aliment. Tiiose of the turkey are su- 
perior in all the qualifications of food. The white 
of eggs is dissolved in a warm temperature, but 
by niuch heat it is rendered tough and hard. The 
yolk contains muclvoii, and is liighly nourishing, 
but has a strong tendency to putrefaction; on which 
account, eggs are improper for people of weak 
stomaclis, especi'ally when they are not quite fresh. 
Eggs boiled hard or fried are difficult of digestiou, 
and are rendered still more indigestible by the ad- 
dition of butter. All eggs require a sufficient 
quantity of salt, to promote their solution in the 
stomach. 

Fish, though some of them be light and easy of 
digestion, afford less nourishment than vegetables, 
or the flesh of quadrupeds, and are, of all the ani- 
mal tribes, the most disposed to putrefaction. Salt 
vater fish are, in general, the best; but when salted, 
though less disposed to putrescency, they become 
more difficult of digestion. Wliitings and flounders 
are the most easily digested. Acid sauces, and 
pickles, by resisting putrefaction, are a proper ad- 
tlition to iish, both as theyretanl putrescency, and 
correct the relaxing tendency of butter, so gene- 
rally used with this kind of aliment. 

di/sters and cockles are eaten both raw and 
dressed: but in the former state they are prefera- 
ble, because he.at dissipates considerably their nu- 
ti-itious parts as well as the salt water, which pro- 
motes their digestion in the stomach; if not eaten 
very sparingly, they generally prove laxative. 

JUiiscles and periwinkles are far inferior to oys- 
ters, both in point of digestion and nutriment. 
Sea muscles are by some supposed to be of a poi- 
sonous nature; but though tiiis opinion is not much 
countenanced by experience, the salest way is to 
eat them with vinegar, or some other vegetable 
acid. 

Bread. — At the head of the vegetable class 
stands bread, that article of diet which, from ge- 
neral use, has received the name of the staff of 
life. Wheat is the grain chiefly used for the pur- 
pose in this country, and is among the most nutri- 
tive of all the farinaceous kinds, as it contains a 
great deal of starch. Bread is very properly eaten 
with animal food, to correct the disposition to pu- 
trescency; but is most expedient with such articles 
of diet as contain much nourishment in a small 
bulk, because it then serves to give the stomach a 
proper degree of expansion. But as it produces a 
slirav chyle, and disposes to costiveness, it ought 
net to b(^ eaten in a large quantity. To render 



bread easy of digestion, it ought to be well fer- 
mented and baked, and it never should be used till 
it has stood twenty-four hours after being taken out 
of the oven, otherwise it is apt to occasion various 
complaints in those who have weak stomachs; such 
as flatulence, heart-burn, watchfulness, and the 
like. The custom of eating butter with bread, 
hot from the oven, is compatible only with very 
strong digestive powers. 

Pastry, especially when hot, has all the disad- 
vantages of hot bread and butter, and even buttered 
toast, though the bread be stale, is scarcely infe- 
rior in its effects on a weak stomach. Dry toast, 
with butter, is by far the wholesomest breakfast. 
Brown wheaten bread, in whicli there is a good 
deal of rye, though not so nourishing as that made 
of fine flour, is both palatable and wholesome, but 
apt to become sour on weak stomachs. 

Oats, barley, and rice. — Oats, wlien deprived 
of the husk, and particularly barley, when pro- 
perly prepared, are each of them softening, and 
afford wholesome and cooling nourishment. Rice 
likewise contains a nutritious mucilage, and is less 
usi'd in Great Britain than it deserves, both on ac- 
count of its wholesomeness and economical utility. 
The notion of its being hurtful to the sight is a 
vulgar error. In some constitutions it tends to in- 
duce costiveness; but this seems to be owing chiefly 
toflKtulence,and may be corrected by the addition of 
some sj)ice, such as caraways, aniseed, and the like. 

Potatoes are an agreeable and wholesome food, 
and yield nearly as much nourishment as any of 
the roots used in diet. The farinaceous or mealy 
kind is in general the most easy of digestion, and 
tliey are much improved by being toasted or baked. 
They ought almost always to be eaten with meat, 
aiui never without salt. The salt should t>e boiled 
with them. " 

Green peas and beans, boiled in their fresh state, 
are both agreeable to the taste and wholesome- 
being neither so flatulent, nor so difficult of diges- 
tion, as in their ripe state; in which they resemble 
the other leguminous vegetables. JVench beans 
possess much the same qualities;, but yield a more 
watery juice, and have agi'eater disposition to pro* 
duce flatulence. They ought to be eaten with some 
spice. 

Salads, being eaten raw^ require good digestive 
powers, especially' tliose of the cooling kind; and 
the addition of oil and vinegar, though qualified 
with mustard, hardly renders the free use of them 
consistent with a weak stomach. 

Spinach affords a soft lubricating aliment, but 
contains little nourishment. In weak stomachs it 
is apt to produce acidity, and frequently a loose- 
ness. To obviate these eft'ects, it ought always to 
be well beaten, and but little butter mixed with it. 

Asparagus is a nourishing article in diet, and 
promotes the secretion of urine; but in common 
with the vegetable class, disposes a little to flatu- 
lence. 

Artichokes resemble asparagus in their quali- 
ties, but seem to be more nutritive, and less diu- 
retic. 

Cabbages are some of the most conspicuous 
plants in the garden. They-do not afford much 
nourishment, but are an agreeable addition to ani- 
mal food, and not quite so flatulent as the common 
greens. They are likewise diuretic, and some- 
what laxative. Cabbage has a stronger tendency 
to putrefaction than most other vegetable substan- 
ces; and, during its putrefying state, sends forth 
an offensive smell, much resembling that of putre- 
fying animal bodies. So far, however, from pro- 
moling a putrid disposition in the human body, it 
is, on the oontraiy, a wholesome aliment in the 
true putrid scurvy. 



404 



UNIVERSA.L RKCEIPT BOOK. 



Turnips are a nutritious article of vegetable 
food, but not very easj- of digestion, and are flatu- 
lent. This effect is in a good measure obviated, 
by pressing the water out of them before they are 
eaten. 

Carrots contain a considerable quantity of nu- 
tritious juice, but «re among the most flatulent of 
■vegetable productions. 

Parsnips are more nourishing and less flatulent 
than carrots, which they also exceed in tlie sweet- 
ness of their mucilage. By boiling them in two 
different waters, they are rendered less flatulent, 
but their other qualities are thereby diminished in 
proportion. 

Parsley is of a stimulating; and aromatic nature, 
•well calculated to make agreeable sauces. It is 
also a gentle diuretic, but preferable in all its 
qualities when boiled. 

Celery affords a root both wholesome and fra- 
grant, but is difficult of digestion in its raw state. 
It gives an agreeable taste to soups, as well as 
renders them diuretic. 

Onions, garlic, and shalots are all of a stimu- 
lating nature, by whicii they assist digestion, dis- 
solve slimy humours, and expel flatulency. They 
are, however, most suitable to persons of a cold 
and phlegmatic constitution. 

Jtiulishes of all kinds, particularly the horse 
radish, agree with tlie three precedi-ng articles in 
powerfully dissolving slimy humours. I'iiey ex- 
cite the discharge of air lodged in the intestines. 

Apples are a wholesome vegetable aliment, and 
in many cases medicinal, particularly in diseases 
of the breast and complaints arising from phlegm. 
But, in general, they agree best with the stomach 
when eaten either roasted or boiled. The more 
aromatic kinds of apples are the fittest for eating 
raw. 

Pears resemble much in their effects the sweet 
kind of apples, but liave more of a laxative quali- 
ty, and a greater tendency to flatulence. 

Cherries are in general a wholesome fruit, when 
they agree with the stomach, and tliey are benefi- 
cial' in many diseases, especially lliose of the putrid 
kin<l. 

Plums are nourishing, and have besides an at- 
tenuating, as well as a laxative, quality, but are apt 
to produce flatulence. If eaten fresh, and before 
tiiey are ripe, especially in large quantities, they 
occasion colics, and other complaints of the bowels. 

Peaches are not of a \ery nourishing quality, 
but they abound in juice, and are serviceable iu 
bilious complaints. 

.<2/«vcois are more pulpy than peaches, but are 
apt to ferment, and produce acidities in weak sto- 
Tuachs. Where they do not disagree they are 
cooling, and tend likewise to correct a disposition 
to putrescency. 

Gonsebernes and atrrants, when ripe, are simi- 
lar in their qualities to ciierries, aud when used in 
a green state, tliey are agreeably cooling. 

Slra-wberries are an agreeable, cooling aliment, 
and are accounted good in cases of gravel. 

Cucumbers are cooling, and agreeable to the 
palate in hot weather; but to prevent them from 
proving hurtful to the stomach, liie juice ought to 
be squeezed out after they are slicetl, and vinegar, 
pepper, and salt, afterwards added. 

Tea. — By some, the use of this exotic is con- 
demned in terms the snost vehement and unquali- 
fied, while others Irave either asserted its iimo- 
cence, or gone so far as to ascribe to it salubrious, 
and even extraordinary virtues. The trutii seems 
to lie between these two extremes; there is how- 
ever an essential difference iu the effects of green 
tea and of black, or of bohea; the former of which 
i!> much ia*re apt to affect the nerves ot tlic sto- 



mach than the latter, more especially wlien drank 
without cream, and likewise without bread and 
butter. That, taken in a large quantity, or at a 
later hour than usual, tea often produces watchful- 
ness, is a point that caTinot be denied; but if used 
in moderation, and acco^npanied with the aihli- 
tions just now mentioned, it does not sensibly dis- 
cover any hurtful eftVcts, but gi'cally relieves arj 
oppression of the stomach, and abates a pain of tlie 
Iiead. It ought always to be made of a moderate 
degi'ee of strength: for if too weak it certainly re- 
laxes tlie stomach. As it has au astringent taste, 
which seems not very consistent with a I'elaxing 
power, tliere is ground for ascribing this eftect not 
so much to the herb itself as to tlie hot water, 
whicli not being impregnated with a suflicient 
quantity of tea, to correct its own emcdlient ten- 
dency, produces a relaxation, unjustly imputed to 
some noxious quality of the plant, llut tea, like 
everj' other commodity, is liable to ilamage, and 
when tliis happens, it may jiroduce effects not ue- 
cessarily connected witli its original qualities. 

C')ffee.-^\t is allowed that coffee promotes di- 
gestion, and exhilarates the animal spirits; be- 
sides wliicli, various other qualities are ascribed to 
it, such as dispelling flatulency, removing dizzi- 
ness of the head, attenuating viscid humours, in- 
creasing the circulation of the blood, and conse- 
quently perspiration; but if drank too strong, it 
affects the nerves, occasions watchfulness, and tre- 
mor of the hands; though in some jdileginatic con- 
stitutions it is apt to produce sleep. Indeed, it is 
to persons of that habit that coffee is well acccDi- 
modated; for to peojile of a thin and dry habit of 
body it seems to be injurious. Turkey coffee is 
greatly preferable in flavour to that of the West 
Indies. Drank, onlv in the quantity of one dish, 
after dinner, to promote digestion, it answers best 
without either sugar or milk: but if taken at otlier 
times, it should have both; or in place of the lat- 
ter, rather cream, which not only improves the 
beverage, but tends to mitigate the effect of coffee 
upon the nerves. 

Chocolate is a nutritive and wholesome compo- 
sition, if taken in a small quantity, and not re- 
peated too often; but is generally hurlfid to the 
stomach of those with whom a vegetable diet dis- 
agrees. By the addition of vanilla and other in- 
gredients, it is made too heating, and so much af- 
fects particular constituuons as to excite nervous 
symptoms, especially complaints of llie head. 
Food fur horses. 

A practice is becoming general in Silesia of 
feeding horses with bread, made by taking equal 
quantities of oat and rye meal, mixing it with lea- 
ven or yeast, and adding one third of the quantity 
of boiled potatoes. To each horse is given 12 lbs. 
per day, in rations of 4 lbs. each. The bread is 
cut into small pieces, and mixed with a little 
moistened ci;t «ti-aw. It is staled that by this 
means there is a saving in feeding seven horses of 
49 bushels of oats in 124 days, while the horses 
perform their common labour, and are much bet- 
ter in look, health and disposition. 

Another improvement in the feeding of horses, 
consists in the substitution for hay and corn, of eut 
straw and potatoes, or straw, chaff, and pounded 
furze mixed, wetted with salt water. The process 
of preparing it is as follows: Let a tub full of fresh 
water, with an egg in it, be impregnated with as 
much domestic salt as will cause tlie egg to rise 
and float on the surface, that being the criterion of 
its sallness being equal to that of sea water. The 
provender being put into a wicker basket, and 
placed Of. the tub, pour the salted water upon it, in 
quantity suflicient to wet the whole mass, and 
when it shall luivc done filtering through It, give it 



MISCELLAMSOUS. 



405 



to the horses. The salted water will not only 
moisten and sweeten the food, but also operate as 
a most efficient alterative to purify the blood, 
purge all gross humours, prevent tlie increase of 
worms, and all painful attacks from those trouble- 
some vermin. Horses fed in this manner will 
vovk well, and will be fit for all sorts of work. A 
man cuts with one knife macliine, in four hours, 
enough of wheateu straw to last nine horses for 
twenty-four liours. 

Original receipt for sore eyes. 

Take 1 ounce of white copperas, dissolve it in a 
quart of water, and ap[)ly it to the co. .lers of the 
eyes three or four times a day, or even every hour. 
The eyes will smirt much during tlie administra- 
tion of the lotion. 

A table-spoonful for an adult, a tea-spoonful for 
a child, of cream of tartar, dissolved in half a tum- 
bler of water, may be taken inwardly, once a day, 
vhile using tlie above. 

The bark of the stem of the pomegranate, a spe- 
cific in the aire of txiila, or tape ivorm. 

♦'liiave repeatedly put to the test of trial in 
cases of toenia, with uniform success, the dried 
bark of the stem of the pomegranate shrub, both 
in decoction and in powder, without exciting any 
other sensation than those which arise from the 
fresh bark of the root of the plant. I have also 
ascertained, by frequent trials, that the virtues 
of the bark may be preserved several years. 
Some bai-k of the stem, which I have hail upwards 
of four years, packed in a deal box, I have re- 
cently tried in several cases of tsenia with per- 
fect jiiiccess; so that I have no hesitation what- 
ever in recommending this drug, not only as a 
safe, but as a perfectly certain remedy for expul- 
sion of txnia. This drug is equally efficacious in 
espelling.from the lower animals (especially dogs), 
taenia. To full grown dogs maybe given the same 
dose as tliat taken by adults. The powder mixed 
with butter or minced meat, is as good a form as 
any; some dogs will of themselves eat it when pre- 
pared in this'manner. The powder may also be 
given in balls, or the decoction may be substituted 
•with equi.l effect. We are indebted, it seems, for 
our knowledge of this invaluable remedy for the 
tape worm to a niussulman fakeer, named Azim- 
shah, wlw, in 1804, having relieved, in a few hours, 
Mr Robert Home, of Calcutta, of a taenia which 
measured ,36 feet in length, was prevailed on, by a 
reward of two gold molars, to disclose the se- 
cret. 

Vaniish for boots and shoes, by which they are ren- 
dered impervious to ivaler. 
Take a pint of linseed oil, with ^ lb. of mutton 
suet, 6 or 8 oz. of bees'-wax, and a small piece of 
rosin. Boil all these in a pipkin, and let the liquid 
cool till it is milk warm. Then, with a iiair-brush, 
lay it on new boots or shoes. If old boots or shoes 
are to be varnished, the mixture is to be laid on 
\vhen the leather is perfectly dry. 
Sympathetic ink. 

Tlie following application of a modern chemical 
cliscovery, has never before been communicated to 
tlie public, and affords a sympathetic ink very far 
superior to any, as yet, in use. Dissolve a small 
quantity of starch in a saucer, with sol't water, and 
use the liquid like common ink: when diy, no 
traces of tlie writing will appear on the paper, and 
the letters can be developed only by a weak solu- 
tion of iodine in alcohol, when they will appear of 
a deep purple colour, wiiich will not be effaced un- 
til after long exposure to the atmosphere. So per- 
manent are the traces left by the starch, that thiy 
cannot, when dry, be elTi^cetl by Indian rubber; and 
in another case, a letter, which had been carried in 
the pocket for a fortnight, had the secret charac- 



ters displav-ed at once, by being verj' slightly moist- 
ened with tiie above mentioned prepai-ation. 
Preservation of wood by charcoal — especially ap- 
plied to ivater-spouts. 

Lay on a good coat of drying oil, then immedi- 
ately dust it over with a thick layer of charcoal, 
finely powdered, and contained in a muslin bag. 
After two or three days, when the oil is thoi-ough- 
ly dried, brush off the loose particles of tlie cli.ir- 
coal, and cover that which adheres with a coat of 
paint, and a few days after a second. The whole 
will become a firm and solid crust, and preserve 
the wood sound many years. 

N. 15. The charcoal should be fresh made, or 
heated again in close vessels, so as to expel the 
water which it greedily attracts from the air. Tlie 
most suitable paint is the common lead colour, but 
any other will do. 
Method of packing seeds for transportation, so 

that they may retain their vegetative property. 

Tlie lovers of plants, or those who wish to have 
seeds transported to distant countries, ought to ob- 
serve the precautions which follow, in order that 
the seeds may germinate, when they have been 
sown. The means of cftecting this, which we are 
about to make known, are those which have been 
followed bv that distinguished botanist, ]M. Sou- 
lange Bodin, who has had long experience in this 
business. 

All seeds, intended for transportrition, should be 
collected in a state of perfect maturity. The finer 
seeds may be enclosed in good paper bags, but 
those which are larger must be placed in layers, 
in very dry sand, and the w hole packed in airtight 
vessels. The stratification in dry sand is a pre- 
caution which alone would preserve their germina- 
ting property for many years, and during tlie 
longest voyages. Saw dust is also a good article, 
l)ut it is necessary to take the precaution of placing 
it in an oven, as we do bran, when we wish to pu- 
rify it from mites, or from the eggs of other in- 
sects. Oleaginous seeds, which are liable soon to 
become rancid, such as those of the coffee plant, 
the oak, nut trees, the tea tree, &c. require, when 
stratified, to be kept with great care separate from 
each other, in sand which is very fine, and very 
dry. Those which are of a middle size, may be 
sent in their pericar[)S, enclosed air tight in small 
cups or pots, by covers of glass, fixed on willi 
puity; or of wood or cork, iilibedded in melted 
wax, or, which is better, in melted pitch. . 

Juicy seeds must be separated from each other, 
as contact would, sooner or later, inevitably cause 
a fermentation which would destroy them. Rox- 
burg dips them into a solution of gum arable; this, 
as it iiardens, forms a coat which defends thera 
against every principle of destruction, and enables 
him to transmit them from the Coromandel coast 
to Europe, without undergoing t!ie slightest 
change. 

With respect to bulbous roots, and other plants 
with roots, which always require a length of from 
two to thi-ee feet in their slioots or slips, it is best 
to place them either in earth, taken from the spot 
where the plant vegetat*s froeiy, or in some other 
earth well divided and mixed, and rather too diy 
than too moist; the mould formed of the rotten 
trunks of trees is very good for the pur[)ose; but it 
is necessary to ascertain that it does not contain 
insects. 

Vegetables, treated in this way, have been' 
brouglit by M. Perrottet from the South Sea, and 
have all lived. The whole may be enclosed in lit- 
tle wooden casks well hooped, and covered, inside 
and out, with a bituminous coaling. So situated, 
seeds are unalterable; a'ld wheil the vessels are 
well closed, neither insects, external air, moisture. 



4U6 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



or even heat, can gain admittance. It is above all 
things necessary (notwithstaiKling some ill founded 
llieories) to be careful not to use fiesb moss, oi' 
immersion in wax, or in pitcli; plants sent in this 
way, from the toirid zone to France, have arrived 
either decayed, or quite diied up. 
Remedij for gravel. 

Take of the essential oil of spruce, 1 scruple, 
spirit of nitric ether, 1 oz. Mix. A tea-spoonful 
to be taken two or three times a day, in a tea-cup- 
ful of the decoction of marsli-maliow root. 

Another. — Great relief has been derived from 
the use of the following mixture, in some obstinate 
cases of stone and gravel. 

Take of tiie rectified oil of turpentine, sweet 
spirit of nitre, oil of juniper, balsam of sulphur, 
each half an oz. Mix. Fifteen or sixteen drops 
to be taken, in a wine-glassful of water, 3 times a 
day. 

Another. — Take of Venice turpentine, 1 oz. 
powdered gum arabic, 2 oz. powdered grains of 
paradise, and powdered jalap-root, each 2 drachms, 
balsam copaiva, sufficient to form an electuaiy. 
The size of a walnut to be taken twice a day. 

Another. — Take of Venice turpentine, Castille 
soap, rhubarb powder, extract of cascarilla, each 
one drachm, essential oil of juniper, SO drops. 
Mix well together, and divide into 50 pills. Three 
to be taken twice a day, willi a wine-glassful of an 
infusion of wild carrot seed. 

Another. — Take of Alieant soap, 8 oz. fresh 
lime, finely powdered, 1 oz. oil of tartar, 1 draciim. 
With sufficient quantity of water for a mass, and 
divide it into 5 grain pills; from 3 to 4 of which 
should be taken daily. This is the celebrated re- 
ceipt of Mrs Stevenson for stone and gravel, im- 
proved by Ur Hartley. 

Another. — Boil 36 raw cofTee-berries for one 
hour in a quart of soft spring or river water, then 
bruise the berries and boil them again another 
hour in the same water; add tliereto a quarter* of a 
tea-spoonful of the dulcified spirit of nitre, and 
take daily a half-pint cup of it at any hour that is 
convenient; its efficacy will be experienced after 
taking it for two moTiths. 

African remedy. — The following means of cur- 
ing the stone have lately been published by an Af- 
rican negro: — "Take a quarter of a pint of the 
expressed juice of horse-mint, and a quarter of a 
pint of red onion juice, evening and morning, till 
the cure is perfected. White onions will not have 
the same eft'ect as red. To obtain the juice, they 
may be cut in thin slices, and well salted, and 
bruised between two pewter plates. It is, however, 
the juice of horse-mint which possesses the most 
virtue in this disorder; a strong decoction of which 
■will, generally, in time, effect a cure." 

tiemoval of biliary calculi or gall stones. 

The Bibliot'heque Medicale for August, 1813, 
contains an account of a wonderful cure of obstruc- 
tion in the liver, occasioned by biliary calculi. 
The remedy employed consisted of a combination 
of 3 oz. of sulphuric ether, with 2 oz. of oil of 
turpentine. The dose of this mixture was half a 
drachm every morning and evening, with a draught 
of milk-whey, or veal broth, immediately after- 
•^vards. Fifteen calculi, each of the size of an 
olive, were voided during the six months that this 
solvent was administered; after which the patient 
was restored to perfect health. M. Guyton de 
•]Morveau recommends a combination of ether, with 
tlie yolk of eggs, as giving less pain than that of 
ether and turpentine, when the patient suffers 
much from the expulsion of the calculi. 
Sudden death. 

When sudden death happens in the street, the 
nearest door should be immediately opened for the 



reception of the body. In all cases, interrnent 
should be deferred till signs of putrefaction api)ear, 
but especially in those where no gradation of dis- 
ease has preceded, as in cases of hj'sterics, apo- 
l)lexy, external injuries, drowning, sutt'ucaiion, and 
the like. The effects of sound upon animal life is 
astonishing. The beat of a drum may have a very 
beneficial effect upon persons in a state of suspend- 
ed animation. At one time, a scream, extorted 
by grief, jjroved the means of resuscitating a per- 
son who was supposed to be dead, and who had 
exhibited the usual recent marks of the exliqctioa 
of life. 

Cautions against premature interment. 

In cases of malignant fevers, putrescency ad- 
vances speedilj', and, under such circumstances, 
the time of the funeral ought not to be unnecessa- 
rily protracted; but this ouglit never to be the case 
in northern climates, and in temperate or even 
cool weatlier. Young persons, in the bloom of 
health and vigour, may be struck down by an ill- 
ness of only a few days, or even hours, but they 
ought not to be consigned to the same summary 
sentence, merely because custom has ordained it. 
No sooner has breathing apparently ceased, and 
the visage assunned a ghastly or death-like look, 
than the patient, after his eyes are closed, is too 
ofien hurried into a coffin, and the body, scarcely 
yet cold, is precipitated into the grave. So ex- 
tremely fi^llacious are the signs of death, that too 
often has the semblance been mistaken for the 
reality; especially after sudden accidents, or short 
illness. Many of these, however, by prompt 
means and judicious treatment, have been happily 
restored. 

Assistance to a person in danger of droioning. 

If the spectator is unable to swim, and can make 
the sufferer hear, he ought to direct i»im to keep 
his hands and arms under water until assistance 
comes; in the mean time throw towards him a rope, 
a pole, or any thing that may help to bring him 
ashore, or on board; he will eagerly seize what- 
ever is placed within his reach: thus he may, per- 
haps, be rescued from his perilous situation. 

Uuc this desirable object appears attainable by 
the proper use of a man's hat and pocket handker- 
chief, which, being all the apparatus necessary, is 
to be used tims: Spread the handkerchief on the 
ground, or deck, and place a hat, with the brim 
downwards, on the middle of it; then tie the hand- 
kerchief round the hat, like a bundle, keeping the 
knots as near the centre of the crown as i)ossible. 
Now, by seizing the knots in one hand, and keep- 
ing the opening of the hat upwards, a person, 
without knowing how to swim, may fearlessly 
plunge into the water, with whatever may be ne- 
cessary to save the life of a fellow creature. 

The best manner in which an expert swimmer 
can lay hold of a person he wishes to save from 
sinking, is to grasp his arm firmly between the 
shoulder and the elbow: this will prevent hina' 
from clasping the swimmer in his arms, and thus 
forcing him under water, and, perhaps, causing 
him to sink with him. 

To escape the effects cf lightning. 

When persons happen to be overtaken by a 
thunder-storm, although they may not be terrified 
by the lightning, yet they naturally wish for shelter 
from the rain which usually attends it; and, there- 
fore, if no house be at hand, generally take refuge 
under the nearest tree they can find. But in doing 
] this, they unknowingly expose themselves to a 
double danger; first, because their clothes being 
thus kept dry, their bodies are rendered more lia- 
ble to injury, — the lightning often passing harm- 
less over a body whose surface is wet; and, second- 
ly, because a tree, or any elevated object, instead 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



40" 



ot warding off", serves to attract and conduct the 
lightning, which, in its passage to the ground, fre- 
quently rends the trunks or branches, and kills any 
person or animal who happens to be close to it at 
the time. Instead of seeking protection, then, 
by retiring under the shelter "of a tree, hay-rick, 
pillar, wall, or hedge, the person should either 
pursue his way to the nearest house, or get to a 
part of tlie road or field which has no high olyect 
that can (haw the lightning towards it, and remain 
there until tlie storm has subsided. 

It is particularly dangerous to stand near leaden 
spouts, iron gates, or palisadoes, at such times; 
metals of all kinds having so strong an attraction 
for lightning, as frequently to draw it out of the 
course which it would otherwise have taken. 

Whea in a house, avoid sitting or standing near 
the window, door, or walls, tluring a thunder 
storm. The nearer a person is to the middle of a 
room, the better. 

_ The greatp;st evil to be apprehended from light- 
ning, is the explosion of powder-magazines. 
These may, ir. a great degree, be secured from 
danger by insula-.ion, or by Hning the bulk-heads, 
and floorings, with materials of a non-conducting 
nature, the expense of which would not be great. 
.Means of restoring persons who have been fam- 
ished. 
In our attempts to recover those who ^4^ve suf- 
fered under the calamities of famine, grt^t cir- 
cumspection is required. Warmth, cordials, ^nd 
food, are the means to be employed; but it is evV. 
dent that these may prove too powerful in their 
operation, if not administered with caution and 
judgment. For the body, by long fasting, is re- 
duced to a state of more tiiati infantile debility; the 
minuter vessels of the brain, and of the other or- 
gans, collapse for want of food to distend them; 
the stomach and intestines shrink in their capacity; 
and the lieart languidly vibrates, having scarcely 
sufiicient energy to propel tlve scanty current of 
blood. Under such circumstances, a proper ap- 
plication of heat seems an essential measure, and 
may be effected, by placing on each side, a healthy 
man, in contact with the patient. Pediluvia, or 
fomentation of the feet, may also be used with 
advantage. 

The temperature of these should be lower than 
that of the human body, and gradually increased 
according to the effects of their stimulus. New 
milk, weak broth, or water-gruel, ought to be 
employed, both for the one and the other; as nour- 
ishment may be conveyed into the system this way, 
by passages, properly the most pervious in a state 
of fasting, if not too long protracted. 

It appears safer to advise the administration of 
cordials in very small doses, and, at first, con- 
siderably diluted with either wine or spirits; but 
— slender wine whey will very well answer this 
purpose; and afford, at the same time, an easy and 
pleasant nourishment. When the stomach has 
been a little strengthened, an egg may be mixed 
Avith the whey, or administered under some other 
agreeable form. The yolk of one was, to Cor- 
raro, sufficient for a meal; and the narrative of that 
noble Venetian, in whom a fever was excited by 
the addition of only two ounces of food to his daily 
allowance, shows, that the return to a full diet 
should be conducted with great caution, aud by 
very slow gradations. 

JVoxmis vapours. 
To prevent the effects of noxious vapours from 
■wells, cellars, fermenting liquors, &c. procure a 
free circulation of air, either by ventilators, or 
opening the doors or windows where it is confined, 
or by keeping fires in the infected place; or throw- 
ing in lime, recently burnt or powdered. 



Old wells, vaults, and sewers, wliich have been 
long shut up from the air, are generally occupietl 
by vapours which soon prove fatal to persons breatli- 
ing them. The property which these vapours have 
of extinguishing flame, affords the means of de 
tecting their presence, and thereby avoiding the 
danger of an incautious exposure to them. When 
such places, therefore, are opened to be cleaneil 
out or repaired, a lighted candle should be let ' 
down slowly by means of a cord, before any per- 
son is suftered to descend; and if it burnsfreeljr 
until it gets to the surface of the water, or other 
matter covering the bottom, the workmen may 
then venture down with safety. But, if without 
any accident, the candle is extinguished, and con- 
tinues to be so on repeated trials, then the air of 
the [dace is highly noxious. 

To restore and improve flour. 
One pound of the carbonate of magnesia is to be 
well combined with 250 lbs. of musty flour; that is, 
in the minor proportion of 30 grs. of the carbo- 
nate to 1 lb. of flour. It is to be leavened and 
baked in the usual way of making bread. The 
loaves will be found to rise well in the oven, to be 
more light and spongy, and also whiter than the 
usual way. It will also have an excellent taste, 
and will keep well. The use of magnesia in bread- 
making is well worthy the attention of the public, 
for if it improve musty flour, how much must it 
improve bread in general'' The use of magnesia 
in bread, independent of its improving qu.alities, 
is as much superior to that of alum, as one sub- 
stance can be to another. 

./? simple method of preserving fruit. 
, "^he fruit, being picked clean, and not too ripe, 
IS toSe put into bottles, which must be filled quite 
full. These bottles, having corks stuck lightly in 
them, art to be placed upright in a pan ot water, 
which is to be heated until it feels hot to the finger, 
but not so hu as to scald. This degree of heat is 
to be kept up half an hour, and then the bottles, 
bemg taken out, one bv one, are to be filled up to 
within an inch of -he cork with boiling water, the 
cork fitted very tigu, and the bottle laid on its 
side that the cork maj be moist. To prevent fer- 
mentation and mould, the bottles are to be turned 
once or twice a week for » month or two, and once 
or twice a month afterwards. Fruit treated in this 
way will keep for two years i^ more. When used, 
some of the liquor, first poure-a off, serves to put 
into pies, &c. instead of water; ar..] (he remainder 
being boiled up with a little sugar, will make a 
rich and agreeable syrup. The fruit ought ntt to 
be cracked by the heat. Apricots, goosebeiries, 
currants, raspberries, cherries, plums of all kinds, 
Siberian crabs, and rhubarb, may bejireser'ed in 
this way. 

To cure and preserve butter. 
Reduce sejjarately to a fine powder, in a dry 
mortar, 2 lbs. of the best, or whitest coranon salt, 
I lb. of salt petre, and 1 lb. of lump suga-. Sift 
these ingredients, one above another, on a s\eet of 
large' paper, and then mix them well to;ether. 
Preserve the whole in a covered jar, placid in a 
dry situation. When required to be used, liunce 
of tlds composition is to be proportioned to 'very 
pound of butter, and well worked into the nass. 
Butter cured by the above composition has leen 
kept three years, and was as sweet as at the frst. 
It requires to be kept three weeks or a month le- 
fore it is used, because earlier the salts are lot 
sufliciently blended with it. It ought to be pack'd 
in wooden vessels, or in jars vitrified throughou, 
which do not require glazing, because during thj 
decomposition of the salts, they corrode tltt ' 
glazing, and the butter becomes rancid. 



408 



UmVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Preparation of yeast. 
■ ISlix two quarts of soft water with wheat flour, 
to the consistence of thick gruel; boil it gently for 
half an hour, and when almost cool, slir into it 
half a pound of sugar and four spoonsful of good 
yeast. Put the whole into a large jug or earthen 
■vessel with a narrow top, and place it before the 
iire, so that it may, by a moderate heat, ferment. 
The fermentation will throw up a thin liquor, 
which pour off and throw away; keep the remain- 
der for use fin a cool place) in a bottle or jug 
tied over. The same quantity of this as of cora- 
itjon yeast will suffice to bake or brew with. Four 
spoonsful of this yeast will make a fresli quantity 
as before, and the stock may always be kept up by 
fermenting the new with the remainder of the for- 
mer quantity. 

'I\) prevent cold feet at night.- 
Draw off the stockings, just before undressing, 
and rub the ankles and feet with the hand as hard- 
as can be borne for five or ten minutes. This will 
diffuse a pleasuralile glow, and those who do so, 
vill never have to complain of cold feet in bed. 
Frequent washing, and rubbing them thoroughly 
drv, with a linen cloth or flannel, is useful for the 
same purpose. In removing from the feet the ac- 
cumulating dirt that obstructs the pores, we i)ro- 
TOOte health, by facilitating that perspiration which 
nature intendetl. 

To prevent the effects of drinking old liqnors, in 
■warm -weather, or tvhen heated 6'/ exercise. 
Avoid drinking water whilst warm, or drink 
only a small quantity at once, and let it remain a 
short lime in the mouth before swfdlowing it, o', 
■wash the hands and face, and rinse the mouth yith 
cold water before drinking. If these preca-nons 
have been neglected, and the disorder incident to 
drinking cold water, or eating ice wheni'»e body 
is healed, hath been produced, the Fst, and, lu 
most instances, the only remedy to 1^ administer- 
ed is sixty drops of laudanum iiis;"''tsand water, 
or warm drink of any kind. 

If this should fail of givii>^ relief, the same 
quanlitv mav be given twen(v minutes aUerwards. 
When laudanum cannot "« obtained, rum and 
-water, brandy and water, (V even warm water alone, 
should be given. , . , . 

To remedy the eff^ts of dram-drmkmg. 
Whoever makes '^« attempt to abandon spirit 
(IrinkiiK' will fiu"') 'I'O'^i time to time, a rankling 
in tlie stomac!^ with a sensation of sinking, cold- 
ness, and ine-<pi'essible anxiety. This may be re- 
lie^ted hv taking often a cupful of an infusion of 
cloves, made by steeping about an ounce of tlieui 
in a lint of boiling water for si-c hours, and liieii 
straining off the liquor. In a state of permanent 
lan"-iDr and debility, an ounce and a half of the 
cascaiilVi bark (being also first bruised in a mortar), 
should oe added to the infusion. This mixture, 
taken ii the quantity above S[)ecified, three times 
adav, 'vill lie found a useful strengtiiener of the 
stomach and bowels, when they have been disor- 
derecjby frequent excess and intoxicatiou. 
/ To procure sleep. 

PiUr a pint of boiling water on an ounce of Ep- 
sotijSalts. Sel it to cool and drink it on going to bed. 
If sill disturbed, count from I to lOOU. Sleep will 
generally come on before the person has reached 
50«. 
Or, on going to bed, take a warm bath. 
Or, rub the body well with rough towels or with 
^e flesh-brush for a quarter of an hour. If this 
ioes not procure sound sleep, take a tea-spoonful 
3f magnesia in a wine-glass of water, with or with- 
out a ittw drops of harlshorn. 

Til relieve head-ache in bed. 
If the head is much disturbed, wash it with cold 



water, and discontinue the night-cap: but wear 
worsted stockings in bed. 

The air-bath. 

All persons, but especially children, ought to 
resort, at least for a short time every day, to this 
metiiod of enjoying the salubrious influence of that 
universal agent. Dr Franklin informs us, that 
every morning, at day-break, he got^out of bed and 
passed lialf an hour in his chamber, according to 
the season, in writing or reading, without any 
clothes; and this, he add.., seems rather pleasant 
than otherwise. 

To detect oxalic acid. 

A paragraph has appeared in the newspapers, 
recommending blue sugar-loaf paper as a test ok" 
distinction between oxalic acid and F.psom salt, 
which have been too often mistaken for each other. 
It is reddened by the former, but not afecled by 
the latter. This is perfectly true; but a simpler 
test consists in wetting the tip of the finger, ap- 
plying it first to the supposed salt, ai.d then to the 
tongue — if oxalic acid, it tastes very sour; if Ep- 
som salt, very bitter and saline. 

Another test is to place a drpp on the tongue; 
the acid will be more apparent, and fetor produced 
by the actioti of this trivial (juantity; the patient 
will, accordingly, soon find occasion to quell its 
effects by the saliva or by water. 

To extinguish fire in chimneys. 

Throw, immediately, upon the fire in the grate 
or --ange, a large forkful of wet horse litter, from 
t.le stable or dunghill. If this be j.^i-operly man- 
aged the steam ascending from the litter will ex- 
tinguish the flame in tlie cliimney in less than a 
minute. Care must be taken that the litter be not 
so moist as to put out the fire in the grate, and 
likewise tiiat it be not too dry, for in that case it 
would break out into flame, and increase instead 
of lessening the evil. It is likewise necessary to 
add more, if required, so that the steam may con- 
tinue to ascend and the fire be enlirelv extinguish- 
ed. 

This method has not only been found successful 
when used in the narrow chimneys of towns, but 
also in the wide, spacious chimneys in tlie kitch- 
ens of country farmers. Ii is obvious, that any 
other materials may be used to ])roduce a sufficient 
body of steam to fill the chimney, provided that 
they have such a quantity of moisture, as to pre- 
vent them bursting out into a flame. 

7'o extinguish fires effeclnaly. 

As soon as the fire engine is in readiness to work, 
stir'into the water 7 or 8 pounds of pearl-ash, and 
continue to add the- same quantity as occasion re- 
quires; taking care that it be directed against the 
timber or wainscot, &c. just beginning to burn, 
and not wasted against the brick work. Where 
time will admit, dissolve any quantity of pearl-asli 
in a vessel of water, and, as fast as it dissolves, 
(wliicb will i)e in a few minutes) mix a pailful 
with the water, in the engine, pretty often. What- 
ever burning wood is played upon, will be exlin- 
guished as if it were dipped in water, and will not 
burn afresh. 

To render paper fire proof. 

Whether the paper be plain, written, printed on, 
or even niarbied, stained, or painted, for hangings, 
dip it in a strong solution of alum water, and then 
thorougiily dry it. In this state it will be fire 
proof. This will be readily known by holding a 
sli[), thus prejiared, over a candle. Some paper 
requires to imbibe more of the s>lution than by a 
single immersion; in which case the dipping and 
drying must be repeated, till it becomes fully sata- 
rated. Neither the colour nor quality of the paper 
will be in the least aft'ected by this process, hut, oa 
the contrary, will be improved. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



409 



Security against fires in manufactories, &c. 

This desirable end may be, in a great measure, 
■jinswered, by the introduction of iron staircases. 
Common ones will be found to be as cheap as any 
kind of wood, and, where ornament is required, 
they may be made quite as elegant and handsome 
ns those of the most costly materials. Joists, raf- 
ters, and beams, cast hollow of the same metal, 
may likewise be used, by which means tire cannot 
be easily communicated from one room to ano- 
tlier. 

Plate-iron roofs have already been adopted, with 
more advantage, as to economy, tiian either tiling, 
•slating, coppering, or leading. 

^'o prevent Imy-etucks from taking fire. 

Where there is any reason to fear that the hay 
■which is intended to be housed or stacked is not 
sulHcienlly dry, let a few handsful of common salt 
Le scattered between each layer. This, by absorb- 
ing the humidity of the hay, not only prevents the 
fermentation, and consequent inflammation of it, 
but adds a taste to it, which stimulates the appe- 
tites of cattle, and preserves them from many liis- 
eases. 

Caution to females vuhose clothes catch fire. 

Extraordinary instances sometimes occur of per- 
sons, whose clothes have bj' accident taken fire, 
escaping, by adopting means suggested at the mo- 
ment from extraordinary presence of mind. Hut 
rather than trust to what presents itself during im- 
j)ressions of extreme terror, to a miud totally un- 
furnished with any fixed mode of proceeding, it 
will perhaps be better to lay down certain rules, 
which, being strongly imprinted on the mind, will 
serve to direct to the most safe and beneficial line 
of conduct. 

1. To call for help, presents itself to the mind 
instinctively; but this should be done, if possible, 
by ringing the bell, kc. without opening the door 
of the apartment, as the external air, rusiiing in, 
will immediately increase the rapidity of the pro- 
gress of the flames. 

2. The first attempt should be to tear off that 
part of the clothing which is in flames, and, if in 
a parlour, to seize the water decanter, (which, for 
this reason alone, should be large, and kept always 
full), or any other vessel of water which maybe 
in the ro.om where the accident has happened. 

3. If unsuccessful in these instantaiseous exer- 
tions for relief, the unfortunate sufferer should seat 
lierself on the floor, remembering that in this pos- 
ture she svill be better enabled to smother the 
flames of her lower garments, and that an upright 
posture will render the communication of tjie 
llames, to the upper part of her dress, more pro- 
bable. 

4. In this situation, should there be a hearth rug, 
or carpet, (which even for this use, in this moment 
of emergency, should form part of the furiiiture in 
every room) it will, from the materials of wliicli 
it is composed, prove highly useful in extinguish- 
in» the flames, when laid over the burning clollies, 
or wrapped tight around them. 

5. It has been recommended that persons, whose 
clothes have caught fire, should immediately roll 
tliemselves up in the carpet; but this excellent 
method of extinguishing the flames is frequently 
quite impracticable, as it is customary to nail down 
carpets to the floor, and heavy tables or other fur- 
niture are often so placed on the carpet, as to hin- 
der it from being easily rolled up. 

6. A by-stander, or the first person who is pre- 
sent, should instantly pass the hand under all the 
clothes to the sufferer's shift, and, raising the whole 
together, should close them over the head, by 
■which means the flame will indubitably be extin- 
guished. This may be effected in a few seconds, that 

3 B 



is, in the time that a person can stoop to the floor, 
and rise again. In many cases, no other method 
can be so i-eady, expeditious, and effectual. 

7. The sufterer will facilitate the business, and 
also prevent serious injury, by covering her face 
and bosom with her hands and arms. — Should it 
happen that no person is nigh to assist her, she 
may, in most cases, if she has the presence of 
mind, relieve herself, by throwing her clothes 
over her head, and rolling or laying upon them. 

8. The females and children in eveiy family 
should be told, and shown, that flame always tends 
upwards — and that, consequently, while they re- 
main in an upright posture, with their clothes on 
fire, (it usually breaking out in the lower part of 
the dress), the flames, meeting additioiMil fuel as 
they rise, become more powerful aiul vehement ia 
proportion. 

A mode of preparing pafyer lohich ahaU resist 
moisture. 

This process consists in pltmging unsized psper 
once or twice into a clear solution of mastic in oil 
of turpentine, and drying it afterwards by a gentle 
heat. The paper thus prepared, w iiliont becom- 
ing transparent, has all the properties of writing 
paper, and may.be used for that purpose. It is 
particularly iccommended for passports, for the 
books of porters, and other labourers, and indeed 
is desirable for a great variety of ]>urjx)ses foi* 
which paper that is ca))able of absorbing dan>p is. 
very inconvenient. When laid by, it is perfectly 
secure from being injured by muuldiness or mil- 
dew, and is not likely to be destroyed by mice or 
insects. 

A ne-M and cheap mode of protecting luull fi'vit 
trees. 

To counteract the bad effect caused to fruit by 
the change of weather we are so subject to, a num- 
ber of means have been recommended for coverins^ 
the trees over in the season of blooming and set- 
ting of the fruit, such as woollen netting and bunt- 
ing (which is a kind of thin woollen stuff' made for 
flags of ships), but these, at the same time they 
protect the tree from the cold winds, require in 
fine weather to be removed to admit a free circu- 
lation, and also the sun's rays, wliich is attended 
with labour. The best mode of protecting trees, 
in such cases, is by aflording it soineliiing' that 
may remain on without tlie labour of changing it, 
and a very useful and clieap covering of this kind 
I have used with great success in the long greeu 
moss found in woods (hypnum of several species. N 
This should be laid next the wall at the time the 
tree is nailed, and left its full length to wrap 
I'ouud the smaller branches, either by the motion 
of the wind, the wet, 'u- the frost, cither of which 
will operate more or less on it; in dry weather 
when the sun shines it becomes relaxed and spread- 
ing, gives room for the sun and air to get to the 
bloom and the young fruit, but by moisture it be- 
comes in some degree compressed, and folds 
round the branches; it is also the most convenient 
covering, approaching in its nature to those opera- 
tions which the leaves perform as a protection to 
the fruit in a more advanced state: it is moreover 
very cheap, and veiy easy in its application. After 
the fruit is set and the season advances, it should 
be pulled out from the branches, as it otherwise 
affords shelter for insects and vermin when the 
fruit is ripe. 

Plan for preserving the -walls of new buildings 
from dampness. 

Spread over the whole thickness of the wall, at 
about two feet from the earth, a layjr of pit coal, 
mingled with pitch or rosin, «nd powdered char- 
coal. This material, being soft, would, when 
loaded with the weight of the building, fill up all 

UK 



410 



tTNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the vacuities, and prevent the access of moisture 
most eftectu&Hy. 

On packing up trees for sending to great dis- 
tances, and aflertaarils planting them again, Jiif 
J Villi am Salisbury. 

As I was so fortunate some years ago, as to dis- 
cover a mode of preserving such articles in close 
boxes for many months, in which mode they may 
be conveyed to almost any part of the world, I 
think it may be useful to give an account of it in 
this place. 

The sphagnum palustre (a species of moss) 
•which is the material I have used for this purpose, 
is found in great quantities on all peat bogs, grow- 
ing generally in the moist places. It should be 
perfectly fresh, and not left any time pulled up be- 
I'ore it is used for the intended purpose. 

As I have endeavoured to discover what proper- 
ty this particular moss possesses when compared 
with others generally used for packing plants, I 
shall remark, that, as its name implies, it is in a 
great measure an aquatic, and consequently not 
liable to injury from moisture, which it has tlie 
power of retaining in a wonderful degree, whilst 
all the species of hypnura cannot be prevented 
from rotting, unless they are kept perfectly dry; 
and althougli the mosses in general, when moist- 
ened with water, are useful to wrap round the 
roots of trees when packed up, yet they gradually 
Undergo a decomposition, and consequently, if 
plants were completely enveloped therein, they 
■would decay in lime from the same cause, which I 
have proved in many instances. 

The manner in which I have been accustomed to 
pack up plants is as follows: — When the moss is 
collected from the bogs in which it grows, it 
should be pressed, in order to drain out as much 
moisture as possible, and, having boxes prepared 
of sufficient size for the young trees (which may 
in some instances be shortened in their branches), 
I lay in the bottom of the box as much moss as 
will, when pressed with the foot, remain of the 
thickness of four inches. A layer of the plants 
should then be put thereon, observing that the 
shoots of each do not touch, and that the space of 
four inches be left round the sides; after this ano- 
ther layer of moss, about two inches thick, is 
placed, and then more plants; and I thus proceed, 
till after the whole of the plants are pressed down 
as tight as possible, and the box filled within four 
inches of the top, which space must be filled with 
the moss; the contents are then trodden down with 
the foot, and the box nailed closely up. 

When trees are intended to be sent to distant 
countries, 1 should advise such to be selected as 
are small and healthy, and, when arrived at their 
place of destination, they should be cut down quite 
close, even to the second or third eye from the 
graft, or in trees not grafted, as near the former 
year's wood as possible; and having prepared beds, 
according to the following mode, let them be 
planted therein, to serve as a nursery; for trees of 
every description suffer so much from removal, 
that unless tlie weather is particularly favourable, 
they do not recover it for some time, even when 
only transplanted in theirnative climate I do not 
think it advisable, therefore, to plant them at 
once, where they are liable to suffer from want of 
water, and other attentions necessary to their per- 
fect growth. I therefore recommend beds to be 
thus prepared for them; viz. On some level spot 
of ground, mark out beds five feet wide, and 
leave walks or alleys between them, of two feet 
wide, throwing a portion of the earth out of the 
beds upon the alleys, so as to leave them four 
inches higher than the beds. 
If the ground is shallow, and the under stratum 



not fit for the growth of trees, the whole should be 
removed, and the beds made good with a better 
soil. 

The advantage arising from planting trees in this 
way is, that the beds being lower than the walks, 
the water which is poured on, for support of the 
trees, is prevented from running off. The plants 
are also less exposed to the influence of the winds, 
and if a dry and hot season should immediately 
follow after they are planted, hoops, covered with 
mats, straw, or canvas, may be placed over them, 
to prevent the sun from burning the plants, and to 
hinder a too speedy evaporation of moisture. 

In warm climates, canvas cloth will answer best 
for these shades, to be fixed during the heat of the 
day, so as to prevent the surface of the mould from 
becoming dry, and if a little water be sprinkled 
upon the canvas, once or twice during the day, it 
will keep it tight, and produce a moist atmosphere 
underneath, which will greatly facilitate the 
growth of the plants. 

These shades should be removed at the setting 
of the sun, and the plants then watered, when they 
will also receive the benefit of the dews during the 
night. In tiie morning theshades shoidd be re- 
placed, and the plants thus protected till they can 
stand the open air, to which they should gradually 
be enured by removing the shades daily more and 
more, till tiiey can be wholly taken away. 

Potatoes. — Fourteeii -waus of dressing them. 

General Instructions. — The vegetable kingdom 
affords no food more wholesome, more easily 'pre- 
pared, or less expensive than the potatoe; yet 
although this most useful vegetable is dressed 
almost every day, in almost every family — for one 
plate of potatoes that comes to table as it should, 
ten are spoiled. 

Be careful in your choice of potatoes; no vege- 
table varies so much in colour, size, shape, consist- 
ence, and flavour. 

Choose those of a large size, free from blem- 
ishes, and fresh, and buy them in the mould; they 
must not be wetted till they are cleaned to be 
cooked. Protect them from the air and frost, by 
laying them in heaps in a cellar, covering thera 
Aviih mats, or burying them in sand or in earth. 
The action of frost is most destructive; if it be 
considerable, the life of the vegetable is destroyed, 
and the potatoe speedily rots. 

1. Potatoes boiled. — Wash them, but do not 
pare or cut them unless they are very large; fill a 
saucepan half full of potatoes of equal size, (or 
make them so by dividing the larger ones) put to 
them as much cold water as will cover them about 
an inch: they are sooner boiled, and more savoury 
than when drowned in water; most boiled things 
are spoiled by having too little water, but potatoes 
are often spoiled by loo much; they must merely 
be covered, and a little allowed for waste in boil- 
ing, so that they may be just covered at the finish. 

Set them on a moderate fire till they boil, then 
take them oft', and set them by the side of the fire 
to simmer slowly till they are soft enough to ad- 
mit a fork — (place no dependence on the usual test 
of their skin cracking, which, if they are boiled 
fast, will happen to some potatoes when they are 
not half done, and the inside is quite bard) — then 
pour the water off, (if you let the potatoes remain 
in the water a moment after tliey are done enough, 
they will become waxy and watery), uncover the 
saucepan, and set it at such a distance from the fire 
as will secure it from burning; their superfluous 
moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes will be 
perfectly dry and mealy. 

You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to 
the size of the saucepan's diameter, over the pota- 
toes, to keep them hot and mealy till wauled. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



411 



"ITiis method of managing potatoes is in eveiy 
respect equal to steaming them; and they are 
dressed in half the time. 

Tliere is such an infinite variety of sorts and 
sizes of potatoes, that it is impossible to say how 
long they will take doing; the best M'ay is to try 
them wiih a fork. Jloderate sized potatoes will 
generally be enough in 15 or 20 minutes. 

2. Cold potatoes fried. — Put a bit of clean drip- 
ping into a frying-pan; when it is melted, slice in 
your potatoes with a little pepper and salt, put 
them on the fire, keep stirring them; when they 
are quite hot, they are ready. 

3. Potatoes boiled and broiled. — Dress your po- 
tatoes as before directed, and put them on a grid- 
iron over a very clear and brisk fire; turn them till 
thej^ are brown all over, and send them up dry, 
with melted butter in a cup. 

4. Potatoes fried in slices or shavings. — Peel 
large potatoes, slice them about a quarter of an 
inch thick, or cut them in shavings round and 
round as you would (leel a lemon; dry them well in 
a clean cloth, and iVy them in lard or dripping. 
Take care that your fat and frying-pan are quite 
clean; put it on a quick fire, watch it, and as soon 
as the lard boils, and is still, put in the slices of 
potatoes, and keep movingihem till they are crisp; 
take them up and lay them to drain on a sieve; 
send them up with a very little salt sprinkled over 
them. 

5. Poiatoa fried tvhole. — When nearly boiled 
enough, as directed in No. 1, put them into a stew- 
pan with a bit of butler, or some nice clean beef 
drippings; shake them about often (for fear of 
burning them) till they are brown and crisp: drain 
them from the fot. 

It will be an impuovement to the three last 
receipts, previously to frying or broiling the po- 
latoes, to Hour them and dip liiem in the yolk of an 
egg, and then roll them in the fine sifted bread 
crumbs. 

6. Potatoes mashed. — "W'hen j-our potatoes are 
thoroughly boiled, drain drj-, pick out every speck, 
&C. and while hot, rub them through a cullender 
into a clean stewpan: to a pound of potatoes put 
about half an ounce of butter, and a tablespoonful 
of milk; do not make them too moist; mix them 
well together. 

7. Potatoes mashed with onions. — Prepare some 
boiled onions, by putting them Ihrougli a sieve, 
and mix tiiem with potatoes. In proportioning 
the onions to the potatoes, you will be guided by 
your wish to have more or less of their fiavour. 

8. Poiatbes escalloped. — Mash potatoes as di- 
rected in No. 6, then butter some nice clean scol- 
lop shells, or patty pans; put in your potatoes, 
make them smooth at the top, cross a knife over 
them, strew a few fine bread crumbs on them, 
sprinkle them with a paste brush with a few drops 
of melted butter, aiid then set them in a Dutch 
oven; when they are browned on the top, take 
them carefully out of the shells, and brown the 
Other side. 

9. Colcannon. — ^Boil potatoes and greens, or 
spinage, separately; mash the potatoes, squeeze 
the greens dry, chop them quite fine, awl mix 
them with the potatoes with a little butter, pepper 
and salt; put it into a mould, greasing it well first; 
let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes. 

10. Potatoes roasted. — Wash and diy your po- 
tatoes (all of a size), and put them in a tin Dutch 
oven, or cheese toaster; take care not to put them 
too near the fire, or they will get burnt on the out- 
side before they are warmed through. 

Large potatoes will require two hours to roast 
them. 

11. Potatoes roasted under meat. — Half boil 



large potatoes, drain the water from them, and put 
them mto an earthen dish, or small tin pan, under 
meat that is roasting, and baste them with some 
of the dripping; when they are browned on one 
side, turn them and brown the other; send them 
up round the meat, or in a small dish. 

12. Potaloe balls. — Mix mashed potatoes with 
the yolk of an egg, roll them into balls, flour them, 
or egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in 
clean dri|)pings, or brown them in a Dutch oven. 

13. Potatoe snoiu.-—T\\Q potatoes must be free 
from spots, and the whitest you can pick out; put 
them on in cold water; when they begin to crack, 
strain the water from them, and put ihem into a 
clean stewpan by the side of the fire till they are 
quite dry and fall to pieces; rub them through a 
wire sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, 
and do not disturb them afterwards. 

14. Potatoepie. — Peel and slice your potatoes 
very thin, into a pie dish; between each layer of 
potatoes put a little chopped onion (three quarters 
of an ounce of onion is sufficient for a pound of 
potatoes), between each layer sprinkle a little pep- 
per and salt, put in a little water, and cut about 
two ounces of fresh butter into little bits, and lay 
them on the top, cover it close with puff paste. It 
will take about an hour and a half to bake it. The 
yolks of four eggs (boiled hard) ma)' be added; 
and when baked, a table spoonful of good mush- 
room catchup poured in through a funnel. 

For allaifing a troublesome cough and spitting of 
blood. 

Let a peck of the best malt be ground and put 
into an earthen pan; pour 6 quarts of boiling water 
over it, stir it well and cover it up close. Let it 
stand 28 hoiu-s; after which strain it thi'ough a clean 
coarse cloth; then put it into a preserving pan over 
a gentle fire, stirring it and skimming it all the 
while. Let it boil till it comes to a syrup that 
ropes, and is as Uiick as treacle. Put it into gal- 
ley pots, and when cold cover it up close. A tea- 
spoonful of this may be taken in a morning, fast- 
ing, and at night going to bed; and at other times 
when the cough is troublesome. 

General remedy for -worms. 

The essential oil of petroleum, (naphtha,) has 
been employed for upwards of fifty years, in Italy, 
as a remedy for every species of worms lodged in 
the intestinal canal. The oil of turpentine, in its 
chemical properties, is similar to naphtha. Pe- 
troleum is become so abundant in Great Britain, 
in conseqvience of the general adoption of the gas- 
lights in the metropolis, (llie production of it from 
the decomposition of coal being very considerable,) 
that the oil of it, obtained by distillation, is em- 
ployed to adulterate oil of turpentine. As a reme- 
dy for worms it is unquestionably more effectual 
than the latter. 

Remedy for gout, &c. 

The following powder, taken three or four times 
a week, at bed-time, will eftectually destroy the 
predisposition to gout in the constitution. It will 
also remove heartburn, and other symptoms of 
indigestion. Take of dried soda, powdered, ^ oz. 
rhubarb, 11 drachms, powder of cinnamon bark, 
1 ditto, powder of ginger, 1 do. nutmeg, grated, I 
do. colunibo root, 2 do. Mix well together, and 
divide into 36 doses, one to be taken every night 
in a glass of water. 

JV'eru discovery in tlie preparation ofjlax. 

A French paper states that an inhabitant of Cha- 
teau Thierry has discovered a mode of giving to 
prei)ared hemp and flax the fineness, softness, and 
whiteness of cotton, by impregnating these sub- 
stances with oil, and then exposing them, during 
fifteen or twenty days, to the action of frost, be- 
tween two layers of snow. By this means all the 



412 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



inconvenience of the ordinary and tedious pro- 
cess of steeping tliein in stagnant water will be 
avoided. 

Preservation of plants from slugs. 

A gardener recommends for preserving cabbages 
and caulillowers from slugs, the spreading well cut 
diaff round the outside of the glasses. The slugs, 
in their attempts to reach the plants, find them- 
selves enveloped in the chaff, which prevents their 
moving, so that in the morning, hundreds of dis- 
abled slugs may be found round the outside of the 
glasses, and be destroyed. 

To improve dried Jigs. 

These fruits, when they are brought to table, 
are commonly covered widi a scurf, composed of 
a mealy, sugary substance, very disagreeable to the 
teeth. A correspondent says that the way to get 
rid of the scurf, and render the figs as plump and 
clear skinned as when they are newly gathered 
from the tree, is, first .to keep them in a cool and 
rather moist cellar for twenty-four hours before 
using; and, secondly, just before presenting tlieni 
at table, to put them into a receiver, and exhaust 
the air. After remaining there two minutes, they 
should betaken out, and gently brushed, when they 
will be found perfectly plump and clear-skinned. 
Grease spots. 

The following method of removing grease and 
oil spots from silk and other articles, without in- 
jury to the colours, is given in the Journal des 
Connaissanees Usuelles; — Take the yolk of an egg 
and put a little of it on the spot, tlien place over 
it a piece of white linen, and wet it with boiling 
■water; rub the linen witii the hand and repeat the 
process three or four times, at each time applying 
fresh boiling water: the linen is to be then remov- 
ed, and the part thus treated is to be washed with 
clean cold water. 

For botts in horses. 

Take of beeswax, mutton tallow, and loaf sugar, 
each eight ounces, put it into one quart of new 
milk, and warm it until all is melted. Then 
put it into a bottle, and give it just before the 
wax, &c. begins to harden. About two hours af- 
ter give pliysic. The effect is that the bolls 
are discharged in large numbers, each jjiece of 
wax having from one to six or eight of them stick- 
ing to it, some by the head, but most by their legs 
or hooks. 

J)urdble polish for furniture. 

Take your table to the cabinet maker, aad make 
him plane off the wax or varnish, then take some 
very fine sifted brick-dust, mix a little sweet oil 
■with it, just enough to make it stick together like 
flour; rub this mixture on the wood with a pumice 
stone, until it is perfectly smooth; then add some 
spirit of wine or strong old whiskey, and continue 
rubbing until you have the required polish, which 
•will be more beautiful and far more durable than 
varnish. Water may be throv^'n upon it without 
injury, and when by age the polish becomes dim, 
you can in five minutes restore its beauty by rub- 
bing it with a cloth dipped in boiled oil, or by 
using the brick-dust as at first. 

Gum arable cements. 

Gum arable, dissolved in as small a quantity of 
■water as may be, and diluted to a proper consis- 
tence with gin, or any proof spirits, forms a very 
useful cement for all purposes where gum-water is 
commonly used, the spirit preserving it from be- 
coming putrescent. As the spirit evaporates, more 
snv^uld be added. It should be stirred and mixed 
together at the time of using. If plaster of Paris 
be added to gum-water, it makes a cement Uoeful 
to ladies in filligree works. 

Gum-ammoniac added to the solution of gum- 
ai'ubic in proof spirits very much improves the 



cement. It ansvA'ers very well for joinmg broken 
glass and ornamental articles of porcelain. 

Glue of the Laplanders. * 

The bows of the Laplan<iers are composed of 
two pieces of wood, glued together; one of them 
of birch, which is flexible, and the other of fir of 
the marshes, which is stiff, in order that the bow 
when bent may not break, and that when unbent 
it may not bend. When these two pieces of wood 
are bent, all the points of contact endeavour to 
disunite themselves, and to prevent this, the Lap- 
landers employ the following eemenl: — They take 
the skins of the largest perches, (it is probable 
eel-skins would answer llie s;in>e purpose, ) and, 
having dried them, moisten them in cold water, 
until they are so soft that they may be freed from 
the scales, which they throw away. They then 
put four or five of these skins in a rein-deer's blad- 
der, or they wrap them up in the soft bark of the 
birch-tree, in such a manner that water cannot 
touch them, and place them, thus covered, in a 
pot of boiling water, with a stone above them tc 
keep them at the bottom. When they have boiletl 
about an hour, tliey take them from the bladder, or 
bark, and they are then found to be soft and vis- 
cous. In this stale they employ them for glueing 
together the two pieces of their bows, which ihey 
sti'ongly compress and tie up until tlie glue is well 
dried. These pieces never afterwards separate. 
Cement that ■will stand the action of boiling -water 
and steam. 

Take two ounces of sal-ammoniac, one ounce 
of flowers of sulphur, and 10 ounces of cast-iron 
filings or borings. Mix all well together by rub- 
bing them in a mortar, and keep the powder dry. 

AV'^hen the cement is wanted for use, take one 
part of the above powder, and twenty parts of cleaa 
iron borings or filings, and blend them intimately 
by grinding them in a mortar. Wet the compound 
J with water, and, when brought to a convenient cod- 
I sistence, apply it to the joints with a wooden, or 
blunt iron, spatula. 

Another cement c^f the same kind. 

Take two parts of flowers of sulphur and one 
part of sal-ammoniac, and mix them together, with 
a little water, into a stift' paste. 

Take also borings or turnings of cast-iron, in 
the state in which they are commonly found iQ 
works where boring and turning are carried on, 
viz. mixed with sand, and sift them finely to get 
rid of the grosser particles. 

When the cement is wanted for use, dissolve a 
portion of the above paste in urine, or in water 
rendered slightly acidulous, and to the solution add 
a quantity of the sifted borings. This mixture, • 
spread upon or between fianches of iron pipes, or 
put into the interstices of other pai'ts of iron work, 
will, ill a little time, become as hard as a stone. 
A method fur taking an impression from a copper- 
plate on plaster of Paris, -with ink, as in common 

prints. 

Let the plate be filled with ink (made of »lie best 
ivory black, mixed with drying linseed oil, and 
ground very fine on a painter's stone) and the sur- 
face cleaned with the hand and whiting, as in com- 
mon copper-plate printing. Provide yourself with 
a board about half an inch thick, just the size of 
your plate; round the edge of this, wrap s,ome stiff 
paper, raised half an inch above the surface on one 
side, and level on the other, in the form of a trough: 
into ibis put your plate, with the prepared side 
upwards; then mix your Paris plaster with water, 
to a proper consistency, and pour it on tlie plate; 
then lifting up the trough, let it fall flat upon the 
table again, to drive the bubbles of air from the 
plate througli the surface of the plaster; after yoa 
iiave repeated this about 12 times, let it stand au 



TvnSCELLANEOUS. 



413 



hoTTT. Afterwards take the plate out of the trough, 1 
nnd tlie plaster, now hardened, from the plate, and 
you will have a very neat impression on the plas- 
ter, fit to put in a frame, and by far pifeferable to 
the best prints. 

To destroy crickets. 

Put Scotch s\iuft' upon the holes where they 
oonie out. 

To prevent the creaking of a door. 

Rub a Lit of soap on the liiiip;L's. 
A simple barometer. 

Take a common phiid, and cut off the rim and 
part of the neck. Tiiis may be done by a piece of 
V hip-cord, twisted round it, and pulled to and fro 
quickly, in a sawitig position, by two persons; one 
of « hoia holds the pliial firmly in his left band. 
Heated in a few minutes by llie friction of the 
striiip;, and then dljtped suddenly into cold water, 
Uie bottle will be decapitated more easily than by 
any other means. Let the \>\\vA be now nearly 
filled wid) common pump-water, and, applying the 
finjjer to its mouth, turn it quickly upside down: 
on removing the finger it will be found that oidy a 
few drops will escape. Without cork, or stopper 
of any kind, the water will be retained within the 
bottle by the, iiressure of the external air: the 
weight of air without the phial being greater than 
that of tlie small quantity of water within it. Now 
let a bit of tape be tied round the middle of the 
phial, to which the two ends of a string may be at- 
tached, so as to form a loop to hang on a nail: let 
it be tlius suspended, in a perpendicular manner, 
■with the month downwards; and this is the baro- 
meter. — When the weather is clear, and inclined 
to be so, the water will be level with the section of 
the neck, or rather elevated :''.)Ove it, and forming 
a concave surface. W^hen disposed to be wet, a 
drop will appear at the mouth, which will enlarge 
till it falls, and tiien another drop, while the hu- 
midity of the atmosphere continues. 

I'o remove grease spots from paper. 

Scrape finely some pipe clay; the ([uantity will 
Oe easily determined on making the-jj.xperiment; 
on this lay the sheet or leaf, and cover the spot in 
like manner with the clay. Cover tive whole with 
a sheet of ])aper,' and apply, for a few seconds, a 
heated ironing box, or any substitute adopted by 
hinndresses. On using Indian rubber, to remove 
the dust taken up by the grease, the paper will be 
found restored to its original whiteuess and opa- 
city. 

" Toath-ach and anti-rheiimatic embrocation. 

Sal volatile, three parts; laudanum, one part. 
Mix, and rub the part in pain therewith frequent- 
ly. If the tooih which aches is hollow, drop 
some of this on a bit of cotton, and ptit it into the 
tooth; if the pain does not abate within an hour, 
take out the cotton, and put another piece in, 
changing it cveiy hour four or five limes, till the 
pain ceases. 

In a general face-ach, or sore throat, moisten a 
piece of flannel with it and put it to the part af- 
fected; rub any part afflicted with rheumatism 
night and morning, and in the middle of tlie day. 

FIFTY-EIGHT ORIGINAL RECEIPTS IN 
COOKERY AND PASTRY, kc. 

1. Shre^vsbury cake. 

Sift 1 lb. of sugar, some pounded cinnamon, 
and a nutmeg grated, into 3 lbs. of flour. Add a lit- 
tle rose watei to 3 eggs well beaten, mix thera with 
tJie flour, then pour in as much butter melted as 
will make it a good thickness to roll out. 

% Anatlter. — Take 2 lbs. of flour, \ lb. of sugar 
finely pounded; mix Uiem together; (take out a 



quarter of a pound to roll them in;) ^ lb. of but- 
ter, 4 eggs, 4 spoonsful of cream, and 2 of rose 
water, iieat them well together, and mix them 
with the flour into a paste; roll thera into thin 
cakes and bake them in a quick oven. 
3. JMacaroons. 

IJ^inch 4 oz. of almonds, and pound them with 
4 spoonsful of orange flower water; beat the whites 
of 4 eggs to a froth, mix it with a poun<l of sugar, 
sift the almonds into a paste, and lay it in difiereut 
cakes on i)aper to bake. 

4. .'/rto/Aer.— rTakel lb. of almonds, blanch thera 
and throw them into cold water, then rub them dry 
with a cloth, and pound them in a moriar; moisten 
ihem with ofanga flower or rose water, lest they 
ttn-n to oil; then take 1 lb. of fine loaf sugar, whisk 
the whites of 4 eggs; beat all well together, and 
shape them round with a spoon, on paper previ- 
ously buttered and sugared, to prevent their burn- 
ing; bake them in a gentle: oven on tin plates. 
^. Savoy biscuit. 

Take of sugar the weight of 12 eggs, of flour the 
weight of 7 eggs; beat the yellows and whites of Vi 
eggs separate; grate in the rind of 1 lemon; after 
being in the oven a few minutes, grate on some su- 
gar. You may add peach water or lemon juice. 
6. Jumbles. 

Take IJ lbs. of flour, lib. of sugar, | lb. of 
butter, 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs, with a wine- 
glass of rose water, roll them thick with fine pow- 
dered sugar, and bake on tins. 

7. Almond cake. 

Take 1 lb. of almonds blanched and beaten, ten 
eggs well beaten, 1 lb. of sugar, and ^ lb. of 
flour. 

8. French rolls. 

Take a spoonful of lard or butter, 3 pints of 
flour, a cup of j'east, and as much milk as will 
work it tip to tlie stiffness of bread; just before 
you take them from the oven, take a clean towel 
and wipe them over with milk. 
9. Wdjles. 

To a quart of miUc add 5 eggs, IJlbs. of floiu*, 
^ lb. of butter; beat tliem well together; when 
baked, sift sugar and cinnamon on them. If you 
make the waftles before it is time to bake them, 
add a spoonfid of yeast. 

10. Poundcake gingerbread. 

Take 6 eggs, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 pint of molasses, 
a full tea-cup of ginger, a tea-spoonful of pearlash 
dissolved, a little mace, imtmeg, 1 lb. of fresh but- 
ter creamed; after these ingredients are well 
mixed, beat in 2 lbs. of flour. Fruit is an im- 
provement. 

1 1 . Gingercake. 

Take 3 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of but- 
ter rubbed in very fine, 2 oz. of ginger, a little 
luitmeg, a pint of molasses, a gill of cream; mtikii 
ihem warm together, and bake them in a black, 
oven. 

12. Gingerbread. 

Take 1^ lbs. of flour, ^ lb of sugar, ^ lb. of butter, 
well rubbed together; 1 oz. of ginger, a few cara- 
way seeds, 24 allspice, 12 cloves, a little cinDaraon, 
1 pint of molasses. Knead well. 

13. Short giitgerbread. 

Take I lb. sugar, ^ lb. butter, 5 eggs, a little 
cream and pearlash, 1 J lb, flour, rolled hard. To 
be baked on tin sheets, marked ready to eul. 

14. Calves''-feet jelly. 

Take 4 calves' feet well boiled, ^ lb. of sugar, 1 
pint of wine, 2 lemons, the whites of 4 eggs, and 
shells; boil all together about five minutes, then 
pour through a flannel bag to strain. 

15. Apple pudding. 

Take half the whiter and all the yoJks of 10 eggs, 
beat Ihcm vcrj- light, add a pint of apples, uUec 

2X2 



414 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



they are stewed and put through a sifter, stir in a 
|- lb. of butter, the grated peel of 2 large lemons, 
and juice of one, sugar to taste. Mace and nut- 
meg are very good substitutes for lemon juice. 
16. Bilked apple pudding. 
Pare and quarter 4 large apples, boil them ten- 
der with the rind of a lemon in so little water that 
when done no water may remain, beat them quite 
Sne in a mortar, add the crumb of a small roll, ^ 
lb. of butter melted, the yolks of 5 and whites of 

5 eggs, juice of ^ a lemon, sugar to your taste; 
beat all well together, and bake it in a paste. 

17. Lemon blancmange. 

Pour a pint of hot water «ipon I oz. of isinglass, 
■when it is dissolved add the juice of 3 lemons, the 
peel of one grated, six yolks of eggs beaten, half a 
pint of Lisbon wine, sweeten it to your taste, let it 
boil, then strain it, and put it in your moulds. 
18. M's Hoffmanns blancmange. 

Take 2 oz. of isinglass, 1 quart of new milk, 
strain it and sweeten to your taste, add rose or 
peacb water, let it be only milk warm when you 
put it in the moulds; if you wish it particularly 
nice, blanch \ lb. almonds, beat them very fine in 
a mortar and stir in before you boil or strain. 
19. Orange pudding. 

Take 1 lb. of butter creamed, 1 lb. of sugar, 10 
eggs, the juice of 2 oranges; boil the peel, tlien 
pound it fine, and mix it with the juice; add tlie 
juice of one lemon, a wine glass of brandy, wine, 
and rose water. 

20. Homminy pudding. 

Take the homminy and pick the beans from it, 
warm it and mash through a sifter until you get a 
pint, add i lb. of butter, melted, stir a tea-cup of 
cream into it, and let it cool; then add half the 
whites of six eggs; sugar, nutmeg, mace, and wine, 
to your taste. Bake it. 

21. Cocoa nut pudding. 

To 1 large cocoa nut grated add the whites of 
8 eggs, a i lb. of sugar, J lb. of butler, 2 spoonfuls 
of rose water. Bake it in a paste. 
22. Rice pudding. 

Take ^ lb. of rice, tied in a cloth, hoiled well, 
and then put through a sieve; add a quart of milk, 
aud keep stirring until it thickens; then add 6 
ounces of butter stirred into the rice, 12 yolks and 

6 wlytes of eggs well beaten; mace, nutmeg, wine,' 
and sugar, to your taste. This quantity will make 
2 large puddings. If you choose you may add 
currants or any other fniit. 

2J. Another Boil the rice very soft, dry from 

water, stir in a little butter, a pint of milk, and 3 
eggs well beaten, sweeten to your taste, pour it in 
your dish, sprinkle flour on the top, put little bits 
■W butler here and there on the top. Bake slowly. 

24. Aiiotlier, highly approved. — Take 2 spoonsful 
of raw rice, I quart ot new milk, a bit of butter 
the size of an egg, a little cinnamon; sweeten to 
your taste, put the pan in a slack oven after the 
bread is taken out; eat when cold. 

25. Another. — Put in a deep pan ^ lb. of rice wash- 
ed and picked, 2 ounces of butter, 4 ounces of 
sugar, a few allspice pounded, and 2 quarts of milk. 
BaK(j in a slow oven. 

26. Another. — Sweeten rice in milk, strain it off, 
and. having pared and cored apples, put the rice 
around them, tying each in a cloth with a bit of 
lemon peel, a clove, or cinnamon. Boil them 
well. 

27. Ground rice or sago pudding. 

Boil a large spoonful of it heaped, in a pint of 

new milk, with lemon peel and cinnamon; when 

cold, add sugar, nutpieg, and 2 eggs, well beaten. 

28. Siueet potato pudding. 

Take 5 eggs, ^ a lb. of butter, a J of a lb. of 

sugar, add as much sweet potato as will thicken it, 



the juice and grated peel of one lemon, beat it very 
light. 

29. Potato pudding. 

Take half a pound of boiled potatoes, beat well in 
a mortar witii half a pound each of sugar and 
butter, the yolks of 10 eggs, the whites of 4, well 
beaten, 2 Naples biscuit grated, and half a pint of 
cream; mix them well with tlie other ingredients, 
and pour it on a thin paste. Bake for half an hour. 

30. Another. — Take 8 ounces of boiled potatoes, 
2 ounces of butter, 2 eggs, a quarter of a pint of 
cream, 1 spoonful of white wine, a little salt, the 
juice and rind of a lemon, beat the whole to a 
froth, sugar to taste, — a paste or not as you like. If 
you want it richer, put more butter, sweetmeats, 
and almonds, with another esi^. 

31. Citron pudding. 

Take ^ lb. of sugar, ^ lb. of butter creamed, 
the yolks of 9 eggs, a wine glass of brandy, ^ lb. 
of citron chopped very fine. 

32. Cream pudding. 

To 3 eggs beaten very liglit, stir in a pint and a 
half of flour, salt to your taste, mix a little milk, 
then put in 6 ounces of sugar; just before you put 
it in the oven add a pint of thick cream. Bake 
for ^ of an hour. 

33. Custard pudding. 

Take a pint of milk, 3 spoonsful of flour, 6 eggs, 
and salt to your taste. Sugar. 

34. Wedding cake. ' 

Take 3 lbs. flour, 3 lbs. butter, 3 lbs. sugar, 2 
doz. eggs, 3 lbs. raisins, 6 lbs. currants, 1 lb. citrc^n, 
1 oz. mace, 1 oz. cinnamon, 1 oz. nutmegs, ^ oz. 
cloves, ^ pint brandy. Beat tlie butter with your 
hand to cream, then beat the sugar into the butter, 
add the froth of the yolks of the eggs after being 
well beaten, then the froth of the whites; mix 
fruit, spice, and flour together; then add them ia 
with beating. Five or six hours baking will an- 
swer for a large loaf. 

35. Election cake. 

Take 5 lbs. flour, 2 lbs. sugar, § lbs. butter, 5 
eggs, yeast, 1 pint of milk, and spice as you please. 
36. Indian pudding. 

Boll one spoonful of fine Indian flour well, then 
add 1 pint of milk, and let it all boil; when cool, 
beat in 2 esigs. Sweeten and season. 
37. Baked Indian pudding. 

Take 8 ounces of mush, 6 ounces of butter, 6 
ounces of sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, and the white 
of 1; mix the hutter in the mush when hot, beat 
the eggs and sugar together; add to the mush, when 
cool, nutmeg, mace, and wine to your taste; bake. 
38. Apple custard. 

Take apples, pared, cored, and slightly stewed, 
sufficient to cover the dish, 6 eggs, 1 quart of milk; 
spice to yoBr taste. Bake it one-third of an hour. 
39. Black cake. 

Take 1| lbs. of flour, 1^ lbs. of brown sugar, I 
lb. of butter, 1^ lbs. of raisins, 1^ lbs. of currants, 
^ lb. of lard, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1 nutmeg, 
aud mace, 1 tea-spoonful of pearl-ash. Wiue and 
brandy. 

40. Tomatas catsup. 

Cut up the tomatas, and between every layer 
s[)rinkle a layer of salt, let them stand a few hours 
before you boil them, which do very well, then 
strain them through a cullender on some horse 
radish, onions or garlick, mustard seed, beaten 
ginger, pepper and mace; cover it close, let it 
stand a day or two, then bottle and seal it for 
use. 

4t. Puff paste. 

Take 1^ lb. of flour, and 1 lb. of butter; divide 
the butter into 4 equal parts; mix ^ib part of the 
butter with ^ths of the flour; and work the remaiik- 
der of the flour and butter in. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



415 



42. Sponge cake. 

Take 14 eggs, with their weight in sugar, and 
half their weight in flour, the juice and peel of a le- 
mon, and one nutmeg; beat the yolks and wliites 
Separately until stiff, add the sugar to the yolks, 
then add the whites. One minute before the oven 
is ready, dredge in the flour. Bake in a quick 
oven half an hour. 

43. Lemon cake. 

Take 12 eggs, li lb. sugar, ^ lb. flour; grate 
the outside of two lemons, with the inside of one; 
or add 1 glass of wine, with 3 teaspoonstul of the 
essence of lemon. ' 

44. Sugar cake. 

Take 1 lb. flour, | lb. sugar, ^ lb. butter, 5 
eggs. Mix and drop them on tin, and put sugar 
sanded on them, just as you put them into the oven, 
or frost them. 

45. Cvp cake. 

Take 3 cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, 2 tea- 
spoonsful of pearlash, 3 eggs, 5 cups of flour; all 
beaten together with as much spice as you please. 

46. Cider cake. 

Take 2 lbs. flour, 1 lb. sugar, ^ lb. butter, 1 pint 
cider, cloves and cinnamon, with or without fruit, 

3 teaspoonsful of pearlash. 

iT. TVInps. 

Take 2 cups of cream, 1 of white wine, grate 
in the skin of a lemon, sweeten to your taste, the 
whites of 3 eggs; then wliip it with a wiiisk, take 
off tlie froth, as it rises pour ti»e froth into your 
jelly glasses. 

48. To make venison pasty. 

You must bone your venisnu and season it with 
2 oz. of pepper, 1 nutmeg, mixed with salt; then 
min«e ."i lbs. of beef suet; put it in the pan: i-t will 
take 6 hours baking. 

49. To dress a turtle. 

Take a turtle of 8 lbs. cut oif its head, cut it 
open, scald the fins and calipee or under shell, skin 
them; then take out the guts, cut them o\ien and 
cleanse them well; take great care not to break the 
gall. I'hen take for the soup the guts and the 
fins, with a knuckle of veal, some sweet iierbs, 
onions, and cayeime pepper. Season llie rest of 
the meat with the same seasoning, whicli put in 
the calipash or upper shell, snd calipee, with 
some force meat balls, and bake it. AViien it is 
baked, take the yolks of three eggs, to a turtle of 
eigiit pounds, beat them well, pour in a little 
wine, lake some of the soup, and brew it together 
very well, throw in a lump of baiter rolled in 
flour, and put it into the calipash and calipee. 
50. To make -waffles the Dutch tvay. 

Take a quart of new milk, a penny loaf grated 
very fine, 10 eggs beaten witli ^ lb. of sweet but- 
ter melted, a few cloves beaten, a little salt, fine 
flour enough to make a baiter like a [)ancake, and 

4 spoonsful of yeast. Mix them togethei-, and put 
them in an earthen pot covered, before the fire, to 
rise for an hour; having your wafer iron I'eady 
heated and buttered on both sides, put in the batter 
to bake; when done serve them hot, with sugar 
grated over ihem and cinnamon. 

51. A good gravy, to be kept for any vse. 

Burn 1 oz. of butter in the frying pan, but take 
care to do it at such a distance from the fire, that 
as you strew in the flom- to the butler, it may 
brown but not blacken; i>ut to it 2 lbs. coarse lean 
beef, 1 quart water, ^ pint wine red or white, 3 
ancliovies, 2 eschalots, some whole pepper, cloves 
and mace, 3 or 4 mushrooms or as many pickltwl 
walnuts; let it stew gently 1 hour, tiien strain it; 
it will keep some time, and is proper for any sa- 
voury dish. 

52. Federal cake, or bachelor^s loaf. 

In a plateful of floiu- put a piece of butter not 



larger than a walnut, 2 eggs, 1 spoonful yeast; mix 
it either with milk or water, as j'ou please, make 
it into a very stiff batter, so stift' you can scarce 
stir it with a spoon. Put it to rise in the same 
<lish 3-ou wish to bake it in. It will take several 
hours to rise. 

53. Albany cake. 

Take 1^ lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of sugar, ^ lb. of 
butter, a table-spnonful of lard, 2 table-spoonsful 
of rose water, a little cinnamon, 1 egg, a tea-spoon- 
ful of pot-ash dissolved in a tea-cup of cream. 
Cut them nut and bake them on tins. 

54. Black cake that will keep for a year. 

Take 1 lb. of sugar, the same of butterand flour, 
10 eggs; beat tiieni well together, and when light 
add two wine glasses of brandy, nutmeg, mace, 
and cloves, 2 lbs. of raisins, and the same quantity 
of cin'rants. It will take some hours to bake. A 
good deal of spice is necessary. 

55. 'Jo dress cnlf^s head in tmitation of turtle. 

Take the calf's head when well soaked and 
washed, open it and boil it with the entrails until 
it is quite done; take part of the liver out wiiea 
about half done for forced meat balls. When it is 
all done strain the liquor, then cut off small pieces 
of the head in imitation of turtle; the small indif- 
ferent remainder chop up with tiie enti'ails; jjut in 
s])ice to your taste, a little savoury herbs rubbed 
very fine, and a few little onions; some very small 
dumplings; season the force meat balls witii spice 
and herbs to your taste, put a little parsley in them, 
and fry them in lard, and put them iii your soup 
wiien you send it to table. 

56. JMock turtle. 

Take a fine calf's head, cut tiie meat clean from 
the bones, then boil the bones in a quart of water 
until the liquor is reduced to a pint, then season 
it with cayenne, nutmeg, and muce; poiu' into the 
gravy a pint of Madeira wine, a little parsley, 
thyrne. 

57. Beef alamode. 

Choose a thick |)iece of flank of beef; cut some 
fat bacon in long slices, let each slice be near an 
inch thick, dip them m vinegar; then take sea- 
soning of salt and pepper and cloves mixed with 
parsley, thyme, and maijoram: make holes in the 
meat to put in the larding; when you have put it 
in rub it over with the seasoning and bind it up 
with tape and set it in a pot over the fii-e; three or 
four onions must be fri-ed brown and put to the 
beef, with two or three carrots and a head of celery. 
Add a small quantity of water, and let it simmer 
10 or 12 liours, or until it is extremely tender, 
turning the meat twice; put tiie gravy into a pan, 
remove from it the fat; keep the beef covered; 
then put them together, add a glass of wine, re- 
move the tape and send it to table. 
58. Oyster pie. 

Take 100 oysters and clean them well from the 
shell, then put them in a kettle with their own 
liquor to plump them, then put them in a dish, 
and season them with 12 cloves and 3 blades of 
mace pounded fine, pepper to your taste; then 
lay crust round the edge of your dish, take the 
yolks of 4 eggs boiled hard, with a handful of 
grated bread, sprinkle this over the top with a few 
pieces of butter; fill (he dish nearly full; cover tl»e 
pie over wilh a puff paste. 



On the honing and stropping of a razor. 
Let the hone be seldom, and but sparingly re- 
sorted to; and never, unless by frequent and re- 
pealed stropping, the edge of the razor is entirely 
destroyed use the best pale oil, and be careful to 
preserve the hone clean, and free from dust. IVe- 



410 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Tiously to the operation of shaving:, it will be found 
of service, particularly to those who have a strons^ 
beard, and a tender skin, to wash the face well 
•with soap and water; and the more time is spent 
in latiiering, and moistening the beard, the easier 
■will the process of shaving become. Dip the mzor 
in hot water, before applying it to the face; use tlie 
blade nearly tiat, always takino; care to give it a 
cutting, instead of a scraping direction. Strop 
the razor immediately after using it, for the i)ur- 
pose of effectually removing any moisture that may 
remaiii upon the edge; and be careful not to em- 
{doy a coniraon strop, as the composition with 
which they am covered is invariably of a very in- 
ferior quality, and injui-ious to a razor. Tbe strop 
should 'always be of the best manufacture, and 
■when the composition is worn ofT, it will be found 
particularly useful to rub it over, lightly, v/ith a 
little clean tallow, and then put upon it the top 
|)art of the snuff of a candle, which, being a fine 
powder, will admirably supi)ly the place of tlie best 
composition ever used for the purpose. Anotlier 
excellent mode of renovating a razor-stro|), is l)y 
rubbing it well witli pewter, and impregnating the 
leather with the liuest metallic particles. 
Pumpkin pudding. 

Take half a pound of stewed pumpkin, tliree 
eggs, a quarter of a pound of fiesli butter, or a 
pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of ])0wdered 
■white sugar, half a glass of wine and brandy mixed, 
iialf a glass of rose-water, a tea-spoonful of mixed 
Sliice, nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. Stew some 
^>uinpkin witli as little w.^ter as possible. Drain 
n in a cullender, and press it till dry. When cold, 
■weigh half a pound, and i)ass it through a sieve. 
Prepare tbe spice. Stir tngetlier the sugar, and 
butter or cream, till they are perfectly liglu. Add 
«o them, gradually, the spice and liqu;ir. lieat 
three eggs very light, and stir them into the butter 
and sugar slternately with tlie pumpkin. Cover a 
sonp-plHte with puft-paste, and put in the mixture. 
Uake it in a moderate oven about half ait hour. 
Grate sugar over it, when cool. 

Instead of tbe butter, you may boil a pint of milk 
or ci-eani, and when cold, stir into it in turn the 
sugar, eggs, and pumpkin. 

A cure fur sore backs of horses. 

The best metluxl of curing sore backs, is to dis- 
solve half an ounce of blue vitriol in a pint of wa- 
ter, and dab tbe injured parts with it four or five 
times a day. 

,iii infallible lotion for blows, bruises and sprains 
in ho"ses. 

Take of spirit of wine, eight ounces; dissolve 
one ounce of camphor first, in tbe sjiirils of wine, 
liien add one ounce of oil of turpentine, one ounce 
of spirit of sal ammoniac, oil of origanum half an 
ounce, and one large table spoonful of liquid lau- 
dainim. It must bo well rvibbed in with tbe hand, 
for full a PjUarter of an hour, every time it is used; 
wiiicli nnist be four times each day. You will be 
astonished at its efficacy when you try it. 
Chicken salad. 

Take two large cold fowls, either boiled or 
roasted, the yolks of nine bard-boiled eggs, half a 
pint of swoet oil, half a pint of vinegar, a gill of 
mixed mustard, a small tea-spoonful of cayenne 
pe[iper, a small tea-spoonful of salt, two large 
heads, or four small ones, of fine celery. Cut tlie 
meat of the fowls from tbe bones, in jiieces not 
exceeding an inch in size. Cut the white part of 
the celery into pieces about an inch long. Mix 
the chicken and celery well together. Cover them 
and set them away. With the back of a wooden 
spoon, mash the yolks of eggs till they are a per- 
fectly smooth paste. Mix tbeui with the oil, vine- 



gar, mustard, cayenne, and salt. Stir them for w 
long time, till they are thoroughly mixed and 
quite smooth. The lon'ger tliej' are stirred Ihff 
better. When this dressing is sufficiently mixed, 
cover it, and set.it away. P'ive minutes before the 
salad is to be eaten pour the dressing over the 
chicken and celery, and mix all well together. If 
the dressing is put on long before it is wanted, the 
salad will be tough and hard. This salad is very 
excellent n(iade of cold turkey instead of chicken. 
IIo~v to know xohether a horse has a stronsr anOi 
good eije, or.a losak eye and likdy to go blind. 

People in general turn a horse's head to a bright 
light to examine his eyes. You can know veiy 
little, by this method, what sort of an eye the 
horse has, unless it be a very defective one. Yoa 
must examine the eye first, when the horse stands 
with his head to the manger. Look carefully at 
the ])upil of the eye in a horse; it is of an oblong 
form: carry the size of the pupil in your mind, 
then turn the horse about, bi-ing him to a bright 
light, and if, in the bright light, the pupil of the 
eye contracts, and apjiears mucli smaller than it 
was in the darker light, then you may be sure the 
horse has a strotig, good eye; but, provided the 
pupil remains nearly of the same size as it appeared 
in the darker light, the horse has a weak eye; 
tlierefore have nothing to do with him. There are 
contracting and dilating muscles in the eye, which 
will plainly show you in what state the eye is, 
whether it be a strong or a weak one. 
JIoxo to catch ivood-pigeons. 
"Wood-pigeons are very easily caught in hard 
weather, ])articularl)' when snow is on the ground. 
You have but to sweep the snow on one side, for 
about a dozen yards long, and about three feet 
broad. Lay about twenty small eel-hooks, fasten- 
ed by a peg into the ground, with a small bean on 
each: be sure you put the point of the hook only, 
throngli the top of the bean, and the barb standing 
quite out, on the side; otherwise, if tbe hook ba 
totally buried in the bean, when the bird struggles, 
lie will pull the hook out of his throat. 

I think, as good a way as any, is to puncli two 
or three holes in horse-beans, with an iron bod- 
kiji, and then boil them in some common gin: 
many will be so drunk that they cannot fly up; 
others will perch on the adjacent trees; watch 
thera, and you will see them tumble down. 
Jloia to catch ivildfo-wl. 
If yoM have a large pond, or lake, frequented by 
wild-fowl; in the shallow water, about one foot 
deep, where you observe them feed, lay a fnv rab- 
bit-tiaps, with a ft:w beans on the bridge of the 
trap, uuiler the water. This is a sure method of 
catcliing them. Where the water is ai)out two feet 
deep, i)Ut a stick in, about one foot above the wa- 
ter; cut a slit at the top of the stick; tie a strong 
piece of packthread round a brick-but, or to a 
large stone; let the string, after having tied it 
round the stone, be about a foot longer; to the 
other end fasten a small eel-hook, baited with a 
piece of bullock's liglits, shi^ep's paunch, or a 
horse-bean; tlien, about three or four inches from 
the biick-bat, fasten a stick, nearly as big as your 
little finger, and about four inches long, tying the 
siring, with a single knot, exactly to tbe centre of I 
the Slick; then place that pai^t of the string, which 
is between the brick-bat and the short stick, into 
the notch at the top of tbe long stick, which is 
sturk into the bottom of the i)ond. The short 
stick will prevent the weight of the brick-bat from 
drawing the string through the notch, and the 
hook will hang a few inches from the water, and 
tbe brick-bat bang fast by the notch in the top of 
the slick. Whjii the water-fowl takes the baited 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



<I7 



hook, he pulls the stick and hrick-bat down, and 
Ihe brick-bat pulls him under water and drowns 
him. 

Of the best breed of dogs for shooting game. 

"The breed oFdogs wliich 1 prefer, beyond all 
others, are those which are bred between a setter 
» and a pointer; but not bred From those setters 
wl\iuh have no natural point in them; for I have no 
idea of shootin<5 to a dog which does not stop at 
birds the very first day he is taken into the fit-Id. 
I have not had a setter, which was broke by force, 
for above twenty years; nor ever \yill have one. 
Leave them at liome only one week; for the next 
two days you must turn to dog-breaking, and not 
to shooting. I prefer those between a pointer and 
a setter, which take after the setter; for, generally 
speaking, tliey have better feet, which is a gi-eat 
point in a dog: for certain, they have more hair on 
their feet, which is a great pi-eservative to the 
foot, if it be kept clean. I never kept a cocking 
spaniel in my life: I always shoot to pointers, even 
in the strongest covers, with bells round their 
necks. I know, for certain, you will not find so 
much game; but then what you find, you are stu'e 
to shoot at. Here is the great benefit of shooting 
to pointers: you may shoot every day, in a wood, 
ami not drive tlie game away. But if you turn 
cocking spaniels into a woo(l, which quest, when 
they come on the foot of a pheasant, in a very few 
days you will drive every pheasant out of the 
wood. A Newfoundland dog, tutored to keep be- 
hind you in the fields, and not to go above a dozen 
or twenty yards from you in a wood, is of wonder- 
ful utility, in retrieving and bringing wounded 
game. I have had several that were uncommonly 
useful." 

Sporisman''s beef. 

Take a fine i-ound of beef, four ounces of salt- 
petre, three-quarters of an ounce of allspice; rub 
it well on the beef, and let it stand twenty-four 
hours; then rub in as much common salt as will 
salt it. Lay it by twelve days, turning it every 
day; then put it into a pan, such as large pies are 
baked in, with three or four pouii<ls of beef-suet, 
some under, some over. Cover it with a thick 
crust, and bake it for six hours. It will keep for 
two months; and most excellent it is. 

Infallible cure fir the sairvy. 

Take two parts of flower of I)rimstone, and one 
part of cream of tartar; mix them well together: 
lake four large tea-spoonsful, in milk, every morn- 
ing, the first thing you do, wlien you get up, k>e- 
fore your breakfast: milk is only the vuliicle to 
lake it in; you may take it in any thing else. 
To be taken by any one suspected of going into a 
decline. 

Half a pint of milk, warm from the cow, made 
lusciously sweet wiih old conserve of roses, and 
two table-spoonsful of the very best rum. Take it 
the firsit thing in the morning. 

Remember that old pi-rsons, who wish to try 
this, must first boil the milk, and let it get tolera- 
bly cool; for all milk, wjien it has once got cold, 
if not boiled will purge. 

,In efficacious gargle for a sore throat. 

Take a large handful of red sage, (not the com- 
mon garden sage,) boil it in one quart of the best 
white-wine vinegar, to near a pint, then sweeten 
it well with honey. You may, if you please, add 
two small wine-glasses of port wine. 

Tfl make a sick horse drink freely. 

A horse has a very sweet tooth, — when he be 
unwell and wont drink, mix molasses or coarse 
brown sugar in the water: he will then drink freely. 
'J'o prevent boots leaking. 

Take boiled linseed oil, one pint; beeswax, one 
>unce; burgundy pitch, half an ounce; spirit of 
3 U 



turpentine, two ounces: melt the three first in an 
earthen-pot, and then add the turpentine. Lay it 
on when the leather is dry, and warmed before the 
fire. This ointment must be well rubbed in be- 
fore the fire, and when the leather is tolerably dry. 
Hbxa to know the age of a dog until he be six yean 
old. 
A dog has a very visible mark in his teeth, as 
well as a hnrse, which mark does not disappear 
totally until he be very near, or full, six years old. 
Look to the four front teeth, both in the upper and 
lower jaw, but particularly to the teeth in the up- 
per jaw; for, in those four front teeth, the mark 
remains longest: at twelve months old, you will 
observe every one of the four front teeth, both in 
the upper and under jaw, jagged and uneven, 
nearly in the form of a fo-iver de luce, but not 
quite so pointed, at the edges of the jags, as a 
flower de luce is. As the dog advances in age, 
these marks will wear away, gradually decrease, 
and grow smoother and less jagged every year. 
Between three and four years old, these marks will 
be full half worn down; and when you observe all 
the four front teeth, both in the upper and lower 
jaw, quite worn smooth and even, and not in the 
least jagged, then you may conclude that the dog 
is nearly, if not full six years old. When those 
marks are worn quite flat and even, and those teeth 
quite level and even, yovi can no longer judge the 
age of a dog. Many huntsmen and game keep- 
ers ignorantiy look at tlie side and eye teeth of a 
dog; there are many dogs, not two years old, 
which have ha<l the canker in the moulli, with 
hardly one sound tooth in their heads. 
Easy method of preserving meat in the country, 
for a feiv days, without salt and ivithout ice. 
Put the meat into the water running from a 
spring. It will sink — examine it daily — when it 
begii\s to rise from the bottom it must be used; it 
■will be found perfectly sound and tender, and may 
be boiled or roasted. Meat may be preserved in 
this manner three or four days in summer time, 
free from taint. The outside will appear somewhat 
whitened, but the flavour is not injured. It would 
be advisable to have a box or tub, with a cover, 
into and out of which the water shall have free 
passage, which may be put either inside or outside 
of the spring-liouse. 

A method of extracting the juice of the sugar ma- 
ple, for the making of sugar, -without injuring 
the tree. 

It has been customary to cut a gash in the tree, 
from which tiie saccharine liquor flows, or to bore 
a hole, and put in a reed, and, when the liquor 
ceases to flow, plugging up the hole. Both tliese 
methods are injurious, and tend to destroy the tree. 
In the lalter^case, the tree rots round the plug to 
some distance within. The following method is 
pro[)ose(l in lieu of these, and has been success- 
fully practised in Kentucky. At the |)roper sea- 
son for the running of the liquoi", open the ground, 
and select a tender root, about the size of one or 
two fingers; cut oft" the end, and raise the root 
suflFiciently out of the ground to turn the cut end 
into the receiver. It will emit the liquor from the 
wound as freely as by either of the oilier methods. 
When it ceases to flow, bury the root again, and 
the tree will not be hurt. 

'J'o restore fainted beef. 
"In the last fall,-! procured an acquaintance of 
mine in the country to put up a barrel of fat beef 
for my family's use during the winter. The bar- 
rel of beef was sent to me agreeable to contract; 
but before I had used one quarter part of it, I ob- 
served it tainted, and so much so as to smell quite 
offensive. The beef being very fat and fine, I waa 
loath to throw it away. 1 made the following ex- 



418 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



periment: I procured a half bushel of charcoal, 
and after taking; out the beef and throwing away 
the oFensive pickle, I re-packed it in the barrel, 
laying the pieces of charcoal between the pieces; 
and making a new pickle, and adding a little salt- 
petre, 1 covered the beef, and in about six days 
found it as sweet and good as it was when first put 
up." 

To clear houses, barns, &c. of rats and mice. 

Gather the plant dog's tongue, the cynoglossum 
officinale of Linnseus, which grows abundantly in 
every field; at the period when the sap is in its full 
vigour, bruise it with a hammer, or otherwise, and 
lay it in the house, barn, or granary, infested by 
rats or mice, and those troublesome animals will 
immediately shift their quarters. 

To preserve peach trees. 

The following mode of securing peach trees 
from injury, and promoting tbeir bearing fruit 
plentifully, has been practised with uninterrupted 
success for many years. 

As soon as the blossoms appear in the spi'ing, 
fine ashes are scattered over them and the young 
leaves, by means of a tin box, perforated with 
holes, and fixed on tlie end of a pole. The pro- 
cess is easily performed, and is in the power of 
any one. It should be done, if j)OSsiLile, in a 
moist day, and when the wind is still. 
,ln ejffectJtal preventive against files settling upon, 
or biting animals. 

Boil 1 oz. of coloquintida half an liour in 3 pints 
of ■water, dip a spopge in the liquid, and rub the 
animal over the parts liable to be attacked. 
Heady mode of mending cracks in strjves, pipes, 
and iron ove?is, as practised in Germany. 

AVhen a crack is discovered in a stove, through 
■which the fire or smoke penetrates, the aperture 
may be completely closed in a moment with a 
composition consisting of wood ashes and common 
salt, made up into paste with a little water, and 
phistered over tiie crack. The good effect is 
equally certain, whether the stove, &c. be cold or 
hot. 

Bruised oats for horses. 

An individual wlio has tried feeding horses on 
whole and on bruised oats, states, tliat a liorse fed 
on bruised oats will look and work as well as 
one fed on double tiie same quantity of oats not 
bruised. 

Prepaiing quills. 

M. Scholz, of Vienna, has discovered a new 
process for rendering quills more firm and durable 
llian those of Hamburg. The following are the 
means employed: — He suspends, in a copper, a 
certain number of quills, and fills it with water, 
6o as just to touch tlieir nibs. He then closes tiie 
copper, £0 as to render it steam tight; here tlic 
quills experience considerable heat and moisture 
from the steam, by which tl'.e fat they contain is 
melted out. After about four hours' treatment in 
this manner, they attain the proper degree of 
softness and transparency. The next day cut the 
ribs, and (h-aw out the pith, then rub them with a 
piece of clotli, and also expose them to a moderate 
heat. The following day they will have acquired 
the hardness of bone without being brittle, and 
■will be as transparent as glass. 
J\reiv mode of preparing paper, for the use of 
draughtsmen, &c. 

Reduce to a powder, and dissolve quickly in a 
glazed eartlien vessel, containing cold water, some 
gum tragacanth, having been well worked with a 
wooden spatula, to free it from lumps. There 
must be a sufficient quantity of water, to give to 
ttiis diluted gum the consistence of a jelly. Pa- 
per, and some sorts of stufls, upou whicii, if this ; 



composition be smoothly applied, with a pencil 
or a brusi), and dried before a ge^itle fire, will re- 
ceive either water or oil colours; in using water 
colours, they must be mixed witii a solution of the 
above gum. This cloth or paper, so prepared, 
will taiie any colour except ink. When it is in- 
tended to retouch any particular part of the draw- 
ing, it should be washed with a sponge, or clean 
linen, or a pencil, (containing some of the above- 
mentioned liquid;) if the part is only small, it 
will then rise quickly, and appear as if repaint- 
ed. 

A composition to render wood fire-proof. 

Dr Fuchs, member of the Academy of Science 
at Munich, is said to have discovered a composi- 
tion, by which he renders wood incombustible; tlie 
composition is made of granulated eartli, and an 
alkali. To obtain this composition, the inventor 
says, you must dissolve some moist, gravelly earth, 
which has been previously well washed, and 
cleared from any heterogeneous matter, in a solu- 
tion of caustic alkali. This mixture has the pro- 
perty of not becoming decomposed by fire or water. 
Wiien spread upon wood, it forms a vitreous coat, 
and is proof against the two elements. The build- 
ing committee of tiie royal theatre, have twice 
publicly tried the efficacy of the composition on 
two small buildings, of six or eight feet in length, 
and of a jjroportionate height; the one was covered 
with the composition, and the other built in the 
usual maimer. The fire was put equally in the 
two buildings; the one which was not covered with 
tlie composition, was consumed, whilst the other 
remained perfect, and entire. The cost of this 
process is very insignificant, compared to its great 
utilit)-, being about two francs three centimes per 
100 sciuare feet. 

The royal theatre at Munich has undergone this 
process, having about 400,000 square feet; the ex- 
pense of which was about 4000 or .'JOOO francs. 
Luting used in propagating fnut trees, by graft- 
ing them. 

The best luting wherewithal to cover the newly 
grafted scions, is composed of e(jual quantities of 
train oil and rosin, prepared in the following man- 
ner: — First, melt the rosin in an earthen vessel, 
then pour in the oil, and mix them well; to be ap- 
plied when cold, with a painter's brush. Tlie 
composition is used in the noitli-west ]>art of 
France with general success. It has this advan- 
tage, that it never cracks, nor admits rain or wind 
to the grafts, which is the usual cause of their fail- 
ing. It is more expeditiously put on, than the 
common clay covering, and looks much neater; 
but what renders it more useful, is, that the grafts 
covered with the composition, seldom fail. Scions 
laid under earth, or steeped in water, for a few 
days, gi-ow better than those taken fresh from the 
parent tree. Grafting cherry or pear trees should 
not be delayed later than St Patrick's day. 
.4 cure fur poisojied sheep. 

It is a fact veil known to farmers, that sheep are 
fi-equenlly poisoned by eating commcn laurel, 
(calmia latifolia.) When you suspect this to be 
the case, give the sick animal a strong tea made 
of mountain dittany, (cunila mariana,) moderately 
warm. This simple remedy has been known to 
recover slieep in the last stages of the disorder. 

It would be well for farmers whose cattle are ill 
danger of being poisoned, to procure and dry a 
quantity of dittany in the summer, and keep it by 
them through-the winter, as it is in the latter sea- 
son they are most likely to be affected. It may 
also be useful in other disorders incident to cattle 
— so much for the cure — as a prevention, destroy 
all the laurel on your farms. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



419 



APPENDIX. 

ZKSTRUCTIOITS IN THE ART OF CARVING. 



Persons, unaccustomed to serving at table, will, 
witli the help of these cuts, and the instructions 
accompanyiugthera, soon be able to carve well: if, 
at the same time, they will, as occasion oft'ers, 
take notice, how a good carver proceeds, when a 
joint or fowl is before him. 

We will begin with those joints, Sec. that are 
simiile and easy to be carved, and afterwards pro- 
teed to such as are more complicate and difficult. 



Z,e^ of mutton. 




This cut represents a leg orjigot of boiled mut- 
ton; it should be servid up in the dish as it lies, 
lying upon its back; but when roasted, the under 
side, as here represented by thelert;r J, should lie 
uppermost in the dish, as in a liani (which see); 
and in this case, as it will be necessary occasionally 
to turn it, so as to get readily at the uiider side, 
and cut it in the direction of a, l>, the shank, 
which is here broken and bent for the convenience 
of putting it into a less pot or vessel to boil it, is 
not broken or bent in a roasted joint, of course, 
should be wound rouud (after it is taken off the 
spit), with half a sheet of writing paper, and so 
sent up to table, that a person carrying it may take 
liold of it, without greasing his hands. Accord- 
ingly, when he wishes to cut it on the under side, 
it being too heavy a joint to be easily turned with 
a fork, the carver is to take hold of the shank with 
his left hand, and he will thus be able to turn it 
readily, so as to cut it where he pleases with his 
right. 

A leg of wether mutton, which is by far the best 
flavoured, m:iy be readily known when bought, by 
the kernel, or little round lump of fat, just above 
the letters a, e. 

When a leg of mutton is first cut, the person 
carving should turn the joint towards him, as it 
here lies, the shank to the left hand; then holding 
it steady with his fork, he should cut in deep on 
the fleshy part, in the hollow of the thigh, quite to 
the bone, in the direction a, b. Thus will he cut 
right through the kernel of fat, called the papers 
eye, which many are fond of. The most juicy 
I parts of the leg, are in the thick part of it, from 



the line a, b, tipwards, towards e, but many prefer 
the drier part, which is about the shank or 
knuckles; this part is by far the coarser, but, as I 
said, some prefer it, and call it the venison part, 
though it is less like venison than any other part 
of the joint. The fat of this joint lies chiefly on 
the ridge e, e, and is to be cut in the direction e,f. 
In a leg of mutton, there is but one bone readily 
to be got at, and that a small one; this is the cramp 
bone, by some caUed the ffe7Ule7na7i's bone, and is 
to be cut out, by taking hold of the shank-bone with 
the left hand, and, with a knife, cutting down to the 
thigh-bone at the point d, then passing the knife 
under the cramp-bone, in the direction d, c, it 
may easily be cut out. 

.4 shoulder of mtttt07i. — JVb. 1. 




Figure 1 represents a shoulder of mutton, 
which is sometimes salted and boiled by fanciful 
people; but customarily served up roasted, and 
laid in a dish, with the back or upper side upper- 
most, as here represented. 

When not over-roasted it is a joint Tery full of 
gravy, much more so than a leg, and, as such, bv 
many preferred, and jarticularly as having many 
very good, delicate, and savoury parts in it. 

The shank-bone should be wound round with 
writing paper, as pointed out in the leg, that the 
person carving may take hold of it, to turn it as he 
wishes. Now, when it is first cut, it should be in 
the hollow part of it, in the direction a, b, and the 
knife should be passed deep to the bone. The 
gravy tlien runs fast into the dish, and the part cut 
opens wide cnougn to take many slices from it 
readily. 

The best fat, that which is full of kernels and 
best flavoured, lies on the outer edge, and is to be 
cut out in thin slices in the direction e, f. If many 
are at table, and the hollow part, cut in the line 
a, b, is all eaten, some very good and delicate 
slices may be cut out on each side of the ridge of 
the blade-bone, in the direction c, d. The line 
between these two dotted lines is that in the di- 
rection of which the edge or ridge of the blade- 
bone lies, and cannot be cut across. 



420 UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 

A shoxdder of mutton. — ^JVo. 2. 




On the under side of the shoulder, as represent- 
ed in figure 2, there are two parts, very full of 
gravy, and such as many persons prefer to those of 
the ilpper side. One is a deep cut, in the direc- 
tion ^, h, accompanied with fat, and the other all 
lean, in a line from i to k. The parts about the 
shai>k. are coarse and dry, as about the knuckle in 
the leg; but yet some prefer this diy part, as being 
less rich or luscious, and of course less apt to cloy. 

A shoulder of mutton over-roasted is spoiled. 

A leg of pork. 
Whether boiled or roasted, is sent up to table as 
a leg of mutton roasted, and cut up in, the same 
manner; of course I shall refer you to what I have 
said on tliat joint, only that the close firm flesli 
about the knuckle is by many reckoned the best, 
■which is not the case in a leg of mutton. 

A shoulder of pork 
Is never cut or sent to table as such, but the shank- 
bone, with some little meat annexed, is often serv- 
ed up boiled, and called a spring, and is very good 
eatin?. 



Edge bone of beef. 
d 




In carving it, as the outside suffers in its flavour 
fi-oni llie water in which it is boiled, tlie disli 
should be turned towards tlie carver, as it is here 
represented; and a thick slice should be first cut 
off", the wlioie length of the joint, beginning at a, 
and cutting it all the way even and through the 
■wliole surface, from a to b. 

The soft fat, that resembles marrow, lies on the 
back, below the letter d, and the firm fat is to be 
cut in tliin horizontal slices at the point c; but as 
some persons prefer the soft fat and others Uie firm, 
each should be asked what he likes. 

The upper part, as here shown, is certainly the 
handsomest, fullest of gravy, most tender, and is 
encircled with fat; but there J.re still some, who 
prefer a slice on the under side, vhich is quite 
lean. But as it is a heavy joint and very trouble- 
some to turn, that person cannot Lave much good 
manners who requests it. 

The skewer that keeps the meat together when 
boiling, is here shown at a. It should be drawn 
out, bjfiu'c llic lUsh is served up to Uibl.-; or, if it 



be necessary to leave a skewer in, that skewer 
should be a silver one. 

A knuckle of veal. 




A knuckle of veal is always boiled, an( is afl- 
mired for the fat, sinewy tendons about the knuc- 
kle, which, if boiled tender, are much esteemed. 
A lean knuckle is not worth the dressing. 

You cannot cut a handsome slice, but in the di- 
rection a, b. The most delicate fat lies about the 
part d, and if cut in the line d, c, you will divide 
two bones, between which lies plenty of fine mar- 
rowy fat. 

The sever.-il hones about the knuckle may be 
readily separated at the joints, and, as they are co- 
vered with tendons, a bone may be given to those 
who like it. 

A breast of veal, masted. 




This is tlie best end of abreast of veal, with the 
sweet-bread lying on it, and, when carved, should 
be first cut down quite through, in tlie first line on 
the left, </, c; it should next be cut across, in the 
line a, c; from c to the last o, on tlie left, quite 
through divides the gristles from the rib-bones; 
tills done, to those who like fat and gristle, the 
thick or gristly part should be cut into pieces as 
wanted, in the lines a, b. When a breast of veal 
is cut into pieces and stewed, tliese gristles are 
very tender and eatable. To such persons as pre- 
fer a bone, a rib should be cut or separated from 
the rest, in tlie line d, c, and with a part of the 
breast, a slice of the sweet-bread, e, cut across the 
middle. 



APPENDIX. 



421 



Jl saddle of mutton. 




Tliis is by some called a chine of mutton, the 
saddle buina; the two necks, but as the two necks 
are now seklnnj sent to table together, they call the 
two loins a saddle. 

A saddle of mutton is a genteel and handsome 
dish; it consists of the two loins tos^ether, the 
back-l)one running down tlie middle to llie tail. 
Of course, when it is to be carved, you must cut a 
long slice in either of the fleshy parts, on the side 
of the back-bone, in the direction a, b. 

There is seldom aii_v great length of the tail left 
on, but if it is sent up with the tail, many are fond 
of it, and it may readily be divided into several 
pieces, by cutting between the joints of the tail, 
V'hicii are about the distance of one inch apart. 

A spare-rib of pork. 




A spai-e-rib of pork is carved, by cutting out a 
slice from the fleshy part, in the line a, b. This 
joint will afford many good cuts in this direction, 
•with as much fat as people like to eat of such 
strong meat. When the fleshy part is cut away, a 
bone may be easily separated from the next to it, 
in tlie line d, b, c, disjointing it at c. 

Half a caf's head boiled. 




There ai-e many delicate bits about a calf's head, 
and wht-n voungi perfectly wliite, fat, ami well 
dressed, half a liead is a genteel dish, if a small 

When first cut, it should be quite along the 
cheek bone, in the fleshy part, in the direction c, 
b where many handsome slices may be cut. In 
the fleshy part, at the end of the jaw bone, lies 
pai-t of tlie throat sweet-bread, which may be cut 



into, in tlie line,c, d, and which is esteemed the 
best part in the head. Many like tlie eye, which 
is to be cut from its socket a, by forcing the point 
of a carving knife down to the bottom on one edge 
of the socket, and cutting qui'e round, keeping the 
point of liie knife slanting towards the middle, so 
as to separate the meat from the bone. Tliis piece 
is seldom divided, but if you wish to oblige two 
jiersons with it, it may be cut into two parts. The 
palate is also reckoned by some a delicate morsel: 
this is found on tlie under side of the roof of the 
mouih; it is a crinkled, while thick skin, and may 
be easily separated from the lione by the knife, by 
lifting the head up with your left hand. 

There is also some good meat to he met with on 
the under side, covering the under jaw, and some 
nice, gristly fat to be pared oft' about the ear, g: 

There Jire scarce any bones here to be separated: 
but one may be cut off, at the neck, in the liney, 
e, but this is a coarse part. 

There is a tooth in the upper jaw, the last tooth 
behind, wliich, having several cells, and being full 
of jelly, is called tlie sweet toolh. Its delicacy is 
more in the name than in any thing else. It is a 
double tooth, lies firm in its socket, at the further 
end, but if the calf was a young one, may readily 
be taken out with the point of a knife. 

Jt ham. 




A ham is cut two ways, across in the line b, c, 
or, with the point of the carving-knife, in the cir- 
cular line in the middle, taking out a small piece 
as at 0, and cutting thin slices in a circular direc- 
tion, thus enlarging it by degrees. This last 
method of cutting it, is to preserve the gravy and 
keep it moist, wliich is thus prevented from run- 
ning out, 

A hawich of venison. 




In carving a haunch of venison, first cut it across 
down to the bone, in the line d, c, a, then turn tliC 

2 L 



422 



UNHTiRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



dish with the end a towards you, put in the point 
of tlie Icnife at c, and cut it down as deep as you 
can in the direction c, b; thus cut, you may take 
out as many slices as you please, on the right or 
left. As the fat lies deeper on the left, between b, 
and a, to tliose who are fond of fat, as most veni- 
son eaters are, the best flavoured and fattest slices 
ivill be found on the left of the line c, b, supposing 
the end a turned towards you. Slices of venison 
should not be cut thick, nor too thin, and plenty of 
j;ra»y should be given with thera. 



An ox tonjue. 




A tongue is to be cut across, in the line a, b, and 
a slice taken from thence. The most tender and 
juicy slices will be about the middle, or between 
the line a, b, and the root. Towards the tip, the 
meat is closer and dryer. For the fat, and a ker- 
nel with that fat, cut off a slice of the root on the 
right of the letter b, at the bottom next the dish. 
A tongue is generally eaten with white meat, veal, 
chicken, or turkey; and to those whom you serve 
with the latter, you should give of the former. 

A brisket of beef J 




This is a part always boiled, and is to be cut in 
the direction a, b, quite down to the bone, but 
never help any one to the outside slice, which 
should be taken off pretty thick. The fat cut with 
this slice is a firm gristly fat, but a softer fiit will 
be found underneath, for those who prefer it. 

A buttock of beef 
Is always boiled, and requires no print to point 
out how it fihould be carved. A thick slice should 
be cut oft" all round the buttock, that your friends 
may be helped to the juicy and prime part of it. 
This cut into, thin slices may be cut from the top; 
but as it is a dish that is frequently brought to the 
table cold a second day, it should always be cut 
handsome and even. To those to whom a slice all 
round would be too much, a third of the round 
may be given, with a thin slice of fat. XDn one 
side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by some 
called the white muscle. A buttock is generally 
divided, and this white part sold separate as a deli- 
cacy, but it is by no means so, the meat being 
close and dry, whereas the darker coloured parts, 
though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser 
texture, more tender, fuller of gravy, and better 



flavoured; and men of distinguished palates ever 
prefer them. 

A piece of a sirloin of beef. 




Whether the whole sirloin, or part of it only, 
be sent to table, is immaterial, with respect to 
carving it. The figui-e here represents part of the 
joint only, the whole being too large for families 
in general. It is drawn as standing up in the dish, 
in order to show the inside or under part; but 
when sent to table, it is always laid down, so as 
that the part described by the letter c, lies close 
on the dish. The part c, d, then lies upperifiost, 
and the line a, b, underneath. 

The meat on the upper side of the ribs is firmer, 
and of a closer texture, than the fleshy part under- 
neath, which is by far the most tender; of course, 
some prefer one part, and some another. 

To those who like the upper side, and rather 
would not have the first cut or outside slice, that 
outside slice should be first cut oft", quite down to 
the bone, in the direction c, (J. Plenty of soft, 
marrowy fat will be found underneath the ribs. If 
a person wishes to have a slice underneath, the 
joint must be turned up, by taking hold of the end 
of the ribs with the left hand, and raising it, until 
it is in the position as here represented. One slice 
or more may now be cut in the direction of the 
line a, b, passing the knife down to the bone. The 
slices, whether on the upper or under side, should 
be cut thin, but not too much so. 

A fore-quarter of lamb, roasted. 




Before any one is helped to a part of this joint, 
the shoulder should be separated from the bi'east, 
or what is by some called the coast, by passing the 
knife under, in the direction c, ff, d, e. The shoul- 
der being thus removed, a lemon or orange should 
be squeezed upon the part, and then sprinkled 
with salt where the shoulder joined it, and the 



APPENDrX. 



423 



elioulder should be laid on it again. The gristly 
part should next be separated from the ribs, in the 
line f, d. It is now in readiness to be divided 
among the company. The ribs are generally most 
esteemed, and one or two may be separated from 
the rest, in the line a, b; or, to those wlio prefer 
the gristly part, a piece or two, or more, may be 
cut off in the lines A, i, &c. Though all parts of 
young lamb are nice, tlie shoulder of a fore-quar- 
ter is the least thought of; it is not so rich. 

If the fore-quarter is that of a grass lamb and 
large, the shoulder should be put into another dish 
when taken off; and it is carved as a shoulder of 
mutton, which see. 

Jl fillet of veal. 
Which is the thigh part, similar to a buttock of 
beef, is brouglit to table always in the same form, 
but roasted. The outside slice of the fillet is by 
many thought a delicacy, as being most savoury; 
but it does not follow, that every one likes it; each 
person should therefore be asked, wliat part they 
prefer. If not the outside, cut oft" a thin slice, and 
the second cut will be wliite meat, but cut it even 
and close to the bone. A fillet of veal is generally 
stuffed under the skirt or flaj) with a savoury pud- 
ding, called forced-meat. This is to be cut deep 
into, in a line with the surface of the fillet, and a 
thin slice taken out; this, with a little fat cut from 
the skirt, should be given to each person present. 

A roasted pig. 




A roasted pig is seldom sent to table whole, the 
head is cut off by the cook, and the body slit down 
the back and served up as here represented; and 
the dislj garnished with the chaps and ears. 

Before any one is helped, the shoulder should 
be separated from the carcass, by passing the knife 
under it, in the circular direction: and the leg sepa- 
rated in the same manner, in tlie dotted lines c, (I, 
e. The most delicate part in the whole pig, is the 
triangular piece of the neck, which may be cut off 
in the line f,g. The next best parts are the ribs, 
■which may be divided in the line a, b, 8cc. Indeed, 
the bones of a pig of three weekb old are little 
less than gristle, and may be easily cut through; 
next to these, are pieces cut from the leg and 
shoulder. Some are fond of an ear, and others of 
a chap, and those persons may readily be gratified, 

A Rabbit. 




two or three parts, in the lines i, k, without di- 
viding it from tiie belly, but cutting it in the line 
g, h. _ The head may be given to any person who 
likes it, the eurs being removed before tlie i-abbit 
is served up. 

A Goose, 




This is a r.ibbit, as trussed and sent up to table. 
After separating the legs, the shoulders or wings 
(which many prefer), are to be cut off in the cir- 
isular dotted line, e,f,g. The back is divided into \ 



Like a turkey, is seldom quite dissected, unless 
the company is large; but when it is, the following 
is the method Turn the neck towards you, and 
cut two or three long slices, on each side the 
breast, in the lines a, b, quite to the bone. Cut 
these slices from the bone, which done, proceed to 
take off the leg, by turning the goose up on one 
side, putting the fork tlii'ough the small end of the 
leg-bone, pressing it close to the body, which, 
when the knife is entered at d, raises the joint from 
the body. The knife is then to be passed under 
the leg in the direction d, e. If the leg hangs to 
the carcass at the joint e, turn it back with the 
fork, and it will readily separate if the goose is 
young; in old geese, it will require some strength 
to separate it. Wlien the leg is ott", proceed to 
take off the wing, by passing the fork tlu-ough the 
small end of the pinion, pressing it close to tlie 
body, and entering the knife at the notch e, and 
passing it under the wing, in the direction c, d. 
It is a nice thing to hit Ibis notch c, as it is not so 
visible in the bird as in the figure. If the knife is 
put into the notch above it, you cut upon the neck 
bone, and not on the wing joint. A little practice 
will soon teach the difference; and if the goose is 
young the trouble is not great, but very much 
otherwise if the bird is an old one. 

When the leg and wing on one side are taken 
off, take them off on the other side; cut off the 
apron in the line f, e, g, and then take off the 
merry-thought in the line i, h. Tlie neck-bones 
are next to be separated as in a fowl, and all olbei- 
parts divided as there directed, to which 1 refer you. 

The best parts of a goose are in the following 
order: the breast slices; the fleshy part of the 
wing, which may be divided from the pinion; the 
thigh-bone, which may be easily divided in the 
joint from the leg-bone, or drumstick, as it is cal- 
led; the pinion, and next the side-bones. 

A green goose 
Is cut up in the same way, but the most delicate 
part is the breast and the gristle, at the lower part 
of it. 

A pheasant. 




424 



UNIA^RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



The pheasant, as hero represented, is skewered 
and trussed for the spit, with the head tucked un- 
der one of the wings; but when sent to table, the 
fikewers are witiidrawn. 

In carving this bird, the fork should be fixed in 
the breast, in two dots there marked. You have 
then the command of the fowl, and can turn it as 
vou please; slice down tlie l)reast in tiie lines a, /;, 
and then proceed to take off the leg on the outside, 
in the direction cl, e, or in tlie circular dotted line, 
d, d, as see in tlie figure " a boiled fowl," next 
column. Tlien cut oft'ilie wing on the same side in 
the line c, d, in the figure above, and a, h, b, in the 
figure at the bottom of this column, which is lying on 
one side, with its back towards us. Having separated 
the leg and wing on one side, do tlie same on tiie 
other, and then cut off, or separate from the breast- 
bone on each side of tlie breast, the jiarls you be- 
fore sliced or cut down. In taking oft" the wing, 
be attentive to cut it in tlie notch «, as seen in 
the \irint of the fowl; for if you cut too near the 
neck as at _§■, you will find the neck-bone interfere. 
The wing is to be separated from the neck-bone. 
Ne.xt cut oft" the merry-tliought in the line/", g, by 
jiassing the kifife under it towards the neck. The 
i-eniaining ])arts are to be cut up, as is described in 
the fowl, which see. 

.'2 partridge. 




The partridge, like the pheasant, is here trussed 
for tlie spit; when served up, the sktwers are with- 
drawn. It is cut up like a fowl (which see), the 
wings taken off" in the lines a, h, and the merry- 
thought in the line c, d. Of a jiartridge the prime 
parts are tiie white ones, viz. the wings, breast, 
merry-thought. The wing is tliought tlie best, the 
tip being reckoned the most delicate moi'sel of the 
"whole. 



»4 foxol. 



P=^ 




The fowl is here represented as lying on its side, 
■with one of the legs, a wing, and a neck-bone taken 
off. It is cut up the same way, whether it be 
roasted or boiled. A roasted fowl is sent to table, 
trussed like a pheasant, (which see,) except that 
instead of the head being, tucked under one of the 



II wings, it is, in a fowl, cut off before it is dressed. 
A boiled fowl is re\)iesented below, the leg-bones 
of which are bent inwards and tucked in within the 
belly; but the skewers are withdrawn, prior to its 
being sent to the table. In order to cut up a fowl, 
it is best to take it on your plate. 

Having shown how to take dfl' the legs, wings, 
and merry-thought, -when speaking of the j)hea- 
saiit; it remains only to show how the other parts 
are (Ijvided; h, is the wing cut off, i, the leg. 
When the leg, wing, and merry-thought are re- 
moveil, the next thing is to cut oft' the neck-bones 
described at I. This is done by putting in the 
knife at ^, and jiassing it under the lung broad part 
of the bone in the line^'-, h, then lifiing it up and 
breaking oft" the end of the shorter part of the 
bone which cleaves to the breast-bone. All parts 
being thus separated from the carcass, divide the 
breast from the back, by cutting through the ten- 
der-ribs on each side, from tiie neck (piite down 
to the vciil or tail. Then lay the back upwards on 
your plate, fix your fork under the rump, and lay- 
ing the edge of your knife in the line b, e, c, and 
pressing it down, lift up the tail or lower part of 
liie back, and it will readily divide- with the help 
of your knife, in the line 0, e, c. This done, lay 
the croup or lower part of the back n|)ivards in 
your [ilate, with the rump from you, -and with your 
knife cut oft' the side-bones, by forcing the knife 
through the rump-bone, in the lines e,/' and the 
whole fowl is completely carved. 

A boiled fowl. 




Of a fowl, the prime parts are tlie wings, breast, 
and merry-thought, and next to these the neck- 
bones and side-bones; the legs are rather coarse: 
of a boiled fowl the legs are rather more tender, 
but of a chicken every iiart is juicy ahd good, and 
next to the breast, the legs are certainly the fullest 
of gravy and the sweetest; and, as the thigh-bones 
are very tender and easily broken with the teeth, 
the gristles and marrow render them a delicacy. 
Of the leg of a fowl the thigh is abundantly the 
best, anrl when given to any one of your company, 
it should be separated from the drum-stick at the 
joint i, (see the cut, viz. "a fowl," j>receding co- 
lumn) which is easily done, if tiie knife is intro- 
<luced underneath, in the hollow, and the thigh- 
bone turned back from the leg-bone. 

.-? turkey. 
Roasted or boiled, is trussed and sent up to ta- 
ble like 3^ fowl, and cut up in every respect like a 
pheasant. Tiie best parts are the white ones, the 
breast, wings and neck-bones. JNIerry-thonght it 
has none; the neck is taken away, and the hollow 
part under the breast stuR"ed with forced-meat, 
which is to hk cut in thin slices in the direction 
from the rump to the neck, and a slice given with 
each piece of turkey. It is customary not to cut 
up more than the breast of this biril, and, if any 
more is wanted, to take oft' one of the wings. 



APPENDIX. 



421 



^pigeon. 
No. 1. No. 2. 




This is a representation of tlie bacK and breast 
of a pigeon. No. 1, the back; No. 2, the breast. 
It is sometimes cut up as a chicken, but as the 
croup or lower part with the thigh is most pre- 
i'erred, and as a pigeon is a small bird, and half a 
one not too much to serve at once, it is seldom 
carved now, otherwise tlian by fixing the fork at 
the point o, entering the knife just before it, and 
dividing the pigeon into two, cutting awav in the 
lines a, b, and a, c. No. 1; at the same time bring- 
ing the knife out at the back in the direction a, 6, 
and a, c. No. 2. 

A cod's head. 




Fish, in general, requires very little carving; the 
middle or thickest part of the fish is generally es- 
teemed the best, except in a carp, the most deli- 
cate part of which is the palate. This is seldom. 
However, taken out, but tlic wliole head is given 
to those who like it. The thin part about the tail 
of a fish is generally least esteemed. 

A cod's head and shoulders, if large, and in sea- 
son, is a very genteel and handsome dish, if nicely 
Doiled. When cut, it should be done with a spoon 
or fish trowel; the parts about the back-bone, on 
the shoulders, are the most firm and best; take oft" 
a piece quite down to the bone, in the direction a, 
b, d, c, putting in the spoon at a, c, and wi<h each 
slice of fish give a piece of the sound, which lies 
underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat of 
vhich is thin and a little darker coloured than tiie 
body of the fish itself; this may be got b}'^^ passing 
a knife or spoon underneath, in the direction d, s. 

There are a great many delicate parts about the 

head, some firm kernels, and a great deal of the 

jelly kind. The jelly parts lie about the jaw- 

bone, the firm parts within the head, which must 

S D 



be broken into with a spoon. Some like the pal- 
ate and some the tongue, which likewise may be 
got by putting the spoon into Ihe mouth, in the 
direction of the line e, s. The green jelly of the 
eye is never given to any one. 



A piece of boiled salmon. 




Of boiled salmon tlicre is one part more fat and 
rich than the other. The belly ])art is the fiittest 
of tlie two, and it is customary to give to those 
that like both, a thin slice of each; for the one, 
cut it out of the belly part, in the direction d, c; 
the other, out of the back, in the line a, b. Those 
who are fond of salmon generally like the skin; of 
course, the slices are to be cut thin, skin and all. 



There are but few directions necessary for cut- 
ting up and serving fish. In turbot, the fish-knife 
or trowel is to be entered in the centre or middle 
over the back-bone, and a piece of the flesh, as 
much as will lie on the trowel, to be taken off on 
one side close to the bones. The thickest ])artof 
the fish is always most esteemed, but not too near 
tiie head or tail; and when the meat on one side 
of t'lie fish is removed close to the bones, the whole 
back-bone is to be i-aised with the knife and fork, 
and the under side is then to be divided among the 
companj-. Turbot eaters esteem the fins a deli- 
cate part. 

The rock fish and sheepshead are carved like 
the turbot. The latter is considered the most deli- 
cate fish of the Atlantic coast; and the former, 
though common, are highly esteemed, particularly 
those caught in fresh water. 

The hallibut is also frequently brought, to mar- 
ket. The fins and parts lying near them are of a 
delicate texture and flavour; the remaining part of 
the fisii is coarse. 

Soals are generally sent to table two ways, some 
fried, others boiled; tliese are to be cut right 
tliroiigh the middle, bone and all, and a piece of 
the fish, perhaps a third or fourth part, according 
to its size, given to each. The same may be done 
with other fishes, cutting them across, as may be 
seen in the cut of the mackerel, below, d, e, c, b, 

A mackerel. 




A mackerel is to be thus cut. Slit the fish all 
along the back with a knife, in the line a, e, b, and 
takeoff' one whole side as far as the line b, c, not 
too near the head, as the meat about the gills is 

3 JL 3 



426 



UNIVERSAL. RECEIPT BOOK. 



generally black and ill-flavoured. The roe of a 
male fish is Soft like the brain of a calf; the roe of 
the female fish is full of small eggs and hard. 
Some prefer one and some another, and ])art of 
such roc as your friend likes should be given to 
him. 

The meat about the tail of all fish is generally 
thin and less esteemed, and few like the head of a 
fish, except it be that of a carp, the palate of which 
is esteemed the greatest delicacy of the whole. 

Eels are cut into pieces through the bone, and 
the thickest jiart is reckoned the prime piece. 

There is some art in dressing a lobster, but as 
this is seldom sent up to table whole, I will only 
say that the tail is reckoned the prime i)art, and 
next to this the claws. 



THE CHOICE OF ANIMAL FOOD. 



We conclude the foregoing treatise on the Art 
of Carving, by the following instructions, intended 
to aid housekeepers in the purchase of ti»e most 
common descriptions of meat for the table. 

lisef. — If the flesh of ox-beef is young, it will 
have a fine smooth open grain, be of a good red, 
and feel tender. The fat should look white raliier 
than jellow; for when that is of a deep colour, the 
meat is seldom good: beef fed by oil cakes is in 
general so, and the flesh is flabby. The grain of 
cow-beef is closer, and the fat whiter, than that of 
ox-beef; but the lean is not of so bright a-red. The 
grain of bull-beef is closer still, the fit hard and 
skinny, the lean of a deep red, and a stronger 
scent. Ox-beef is the reverse. Ox-beef is the 
richest and largest; but in small families, and to 
some tastes, heifer-beef is better if finely fed. In 
old meat there is a streak of horn in the ribs of 
beef: the harder this is, the older; and the flesh is 
not finely flavoured. 

Veal. — The flesh of a bull calf is firmest, but 
not so white. The fillet of the cow calf is gene- 
rally preferred for the udder. The whitest is not 
the most juicy, having been made so by frequent 
bleeding, and having had whiting to lick. Choose 
the meat of which the kidney is well covered with 
white thick fat. If the bloody vein in the shoulder 
looks blue, or of a bright red, it is newly killed; 
but any other colour shows it stale. The other 
parts should be dry and white: if clammy or spot- 
ted, the meat is stale and bad. The kidney tuins 
first in the loin, and the suet will not then be firm. 

JHutlon. — Choose this by the fineness of its 
grain, good colour, and firm white fat. It is not 
the better for being young; if of a good breed and 
well fed, it is better for age; but this only holds 
with wether mutton: the flesh of the ewe is paler, 
and the texture finer. Ram mutton is very strong 
flavoured, the flesh is of a deep red, and the fat is 
spongy. 

Znm6.— Observe the neck of a fore quarter: if 
the vein is bluish, it is fresh; if it has a green or 
yellow cast, it is stale. In the liind quarter, if 
there is a faint smell under the kidney, and the 
knuckle is limp, the meat is stale. If the eyes are 
sunk, the head is not fresh. Grass-lamb comes 
into season in Jfprll or May, and continues till 
August. House-lamb may be had in great towns 
almost all the year, but is in highest perfection in 
December and January. 

Pork. — Pinch the lean, and if young it will 
break. If the rind is tough, thick, and cannot 
easily be impressed by the finger, it is old. A 
thin rind is a merit in all pork. When fresh, the 
flesh will be smooth and cool; if clammy, it is 



tainted. What is called measly pork is very un- 
wholesome; and may be known by the fat being 
full of kernels, which in good pork is never the 
case. Pork fed at still-houses does not answer for 
curing any way, the fat being spongy. Dairy fed 
pork is the best. 

A Uirkey cock, if young, has a smooth black 
leg, with a short spur. The eyes fidl and bright, 
if fresh, and the feet supple and moist. If stale, 
the eyes will be sunk, and the feet dry. — A hen- 
turkey is known by the same rides; but if old, her 
legs will be red and rough. 

Foivls. — If a cock is young, his spurs will be 
short; but take care to see they have not been cut 
or pared, which is a trick often practised. If 
fresh, the vent will be close and dark. Pullets 
are best just before they begin to lay, and yet are 
full of eggs: if old hens, their combs anil legs will 
be rougi); if young, they will be smooth. A good 
capon has a thick belly and a large rump: there is 
a particular fat at his breast, and the comb is very 
pale. Black-legged fowls are most moist, if for 
roasting. 

Geese. — The bill and feet of a young one will 
be yellow, and there will be but few hairs upon 
them; if old, they will be red: if fresh, the feet 
will be pliable; if stale, dry and stiff. Geese are 
called green till three or four months old. Greea 
geese should be scalded: a stubble-goose should 
be picked dry. 

Ducks. — Choose them hy the same rules, of 
having supple feet, a»id by their being hard and 
thick on the breast and belly. The feet of a tame 
duck are thick, and inclining to dusky yellow; a 
wild one has the feet reddish, and smaller than the 
tame. They should be picked dry. Ducklings 
must be scalded. 



Shad. — If good, they are white and thick. If 
too fresh they eat tough, but must not be kept 
above two da)'s without salting. 

Herrings. — If good, their gills are of a fine red, 
and the eyes bright; as is likewise the whole fish, 
which must be stift" and firm. 

J/obsters. — If they have not been long taken, the 
claws will have a strong motion when you put your 
finger on the eyes and press them. The heaviest 
are tiie best. The cock-lobster is known by the 
narrow back part of his tail, and the two upper- 
most fins within it are stift' and hard; but those of 
the hen are soft, and the tail broader. The male, 
though generally smaller, has the highest flavour, 
the fiesh is firmer, and the colour when boiled is 
a deeper red. 

Crabs. — The heaviest are best, and those of a 
middling size are sweetest. If light they are 
watery; when in perfection the joints of the legs 
are stifle, and the body has a ver}' agreeable smell. 
The eyes look dead and loose when stale. 

Oysters.— There are several kinds. The native 
are finest, being white and fat; but others may be 
made to possess both these qualities in some de- 
gree by proper feeding. When alive and strong 
the shell is close. They should be eaten as soon 
as opened, the flavour becoming poor otherwise. 
The rock-oyster is largest, but usually has a coarse 
flavour if eaten raw. 

The abundance and variety of fishes daily 
brought to market in every seaport town in the 
United States, cannot be equalled in any other part 
of the world. And the general practice of ex- 
hibiting them fijr sale jumping alive, while it pre- 
cludes the possibility of deception, renders farther 
directions for avoiding imposition unnecessaiy. _ 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



427 



INDEX. 



— O©^— 



Abscess . . . 

Accidents in general . 

compound . • 

Acid liquors . . 

pjToligneous, to prepare . 

acetous, to make strong 

acetic, to prepare . 

formic 

marine, or spirits of salt . 
A.corn coffee 

Adulteration in ivine to detect 
\gue, treatment of the 
Air, to purif}', in hospitals, theatres, &c. 

pipes for ventilating ships 

trunk . 

to cool it in summer, German waj 

vitiated, in bed rooms, to correct 

to fumigate foul rooms 

portable apparatus for purifying the 

foul, cautions respecting the 

■ventilation of churches and houses 

burying in churches 

noxious vapours in -wells, to prevent 
the effects of, &c. . 261, 

bath, use of . 

Alcohol, to make, from potatoes 

to discover in wine, beer, bcc. 

to ascertain proportions of, in wine, &c. 
Ale, London, to brew . , 

to brew, in small families . 

on Mr Cobbett's plan . . 

from sugar and malt 

to brew Welsh, Uurton, Ringwood, Not- 
tingham, Dorchester, Essex, Barnsta- 



ble, Edinburgh, ^Vindsor, 

table . 

Yorkshire oat . . 

from pea-shells . 

to fine and preserve 

to give new the flavour of old 

to bottle 

to ripen, if fiat, when bottled 

to manage in the cellar 
Alexeterial waters, simple, to distil 
Alloys, or compound metals 

fusible . . 

metallographical application of 
Alloy for flute-key valves . 

printers' types 

small do. and stereotype plates 

of gold with platinum . 

Almond milk, to make 

oil of 
Amalgam of gold in the largo way 
Ammonia, pure, water of 

acetaled . 

Amputation . . 

Aneurism . . . 

Angina pectoris 

Anti-scorbutic water, to distil . 
Animation, suspended . 



112, 



219 

220 

227" 

153 

155 

156 

241 

156 

ib 

158 

137 

199 

240 

241 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

399 

2G0 

ib 

261 

4or 

408 
143 
392 
392 
108 
109 
110 
111 



113 

no 

114 

ib 

115 

117 

120 

ib 

ib 

150 

9 

10 

11 

10 

ib 

ib 

13 

660 

ib 

17 

253 

ib 

22- 

218 

214 

153 

228 



Anatto for dyeing, to use, &c. . 
Anchovies, artificial, to pickle . 
Animals, noxious, bites and stings of 

to paint, water colours 
Animid food, choice of . 

Anisette de Hourdeaux . 

Aniseed cordial, to make 

oil of, to obtain . , 

compound spirit of 
Anti-attrition, to prepare . 

Antimonial ores, to assay 
Antimony, arseniated, humid assay of 
Anis, acid of, f see formic acid) 
Apiary, to estaolish an 
Apoplexy 
Apples, to preserve . 

to keep for market 
• qualities of 
Apricots, to preserve 

qualities of 
Aqua-mellis, honey water, to make 
Aqua-fortis, double 

common 

simple 
Aqua-regia, to prepare 

common 
Arrack, to make 
Arsenical ores, to assay 
Artichokes 
Ascarides, to destroy 
Asparagus, to cultivate, &c. 

ragout of 

qualities of 
Assay of metallic ores 
Assay of ores, dry way 

weights 

of metallic ores, humid 

iron ores 

humid, of ditto . 

zinc ores 

tin do. . 

lead do. . 

copper do. . 

bismuth do. 

antimonial do. 

humid, of arseniated antimony 

manganese ores 

arsenical do. . 

nickel do. . 

cobalt do. • 

mercurial do . 

humid, of cinnabar 

silver ores 

by cupellatioa 

the value of silver 

double, of silver 

ores and earths containing gold 

humid, of gold, mixed with martial py- 
rites 

plated metals . . 

Asthma .... 
Attrition, ami, to prepare . 



ib 

18 

203 

28 



428 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



. Hacon, qualities of . . 


402 


Badigeon, to distemper in 


40 


Uallooiis, to varnish . 


34 


rarefied air 


ib 


Balsam of turpentine, Dutch drops from 


149 


Tolu, tincture of 


25-2 


Riga, to obtain tlie true 


148 


Godbold's vegetable 


253 


ol lioney 


252 


Barberry marmalade, to make . 


183 


to preserve 


186 


Barley, varieties of . 


330 


t(> prepare the ground for 


ib 


quantity of seed, &cc. &c. . 


ib 


qualities of 


403 


Barns and out-houses, to clear from wevi 


^> 


&c. 


337 


rats and mice 


418 


Barometers, to construct 


383 


to purify the mercury , 


ib 


I)rocess of filling the tube . 


ib 


Troughton's improved marine 


.' ib 


portable 


385 


Bimplc . . 


413 


Bath metal, to prepare 


11 


Batii, cold, use of . . 


259 


shower 


ib 


tepid . . , 


260 


Bathing, cramp in . . 


259 


precautions in 


ib 


general observations on 


ib 


sea . . . 


ib 


Beans, plough for cleaning 


315 


qualities of . . 


303 


to cultivate 


331 


drilling, approved modes of 


ih 


machines 


33-2 


quantity of seeds for • 


ib 


hoeing, he. . • 


ib 


Beds, to warm , . 


391 


Beech wood, to dye mahogany 


. • 93 


Beef, qualities of . . 


402 


leg of, to pot . . 


166 


to salt . . 


186 


en daube . • 


167 


a la mode, to make . 


166 


another 


415 


tongue . . 


167 


sportsman's . . 


M17 


tainted, 'to restore 


ib 


choice of . . 


426 


to carve . . 


420 


Bee-flowers, to cultivate 


365 


Beer, table, to brew from pale malt 


110 


from sugar 


114 


from treacle 


110 


on Mr Cobbett's plan 


Jb 


bran, to brew 


114 


cheap 


ib 


from pea-shells, to brew . . 


114 


ginger 


156 


required time for keeping . 


114 


to give brightness to . . 


115 


amber, or two-penny, to brew . 


in 


molasses, to make 


ib 


to fine . , . 


ib 


musty, to restore 


ib 


dead, to enliven . , 


ib 


to fine and preserve a cask of . 


ib 


flat, to recover . . 


116 


to prevent becoming stale and flat 


ib 


ropy, to restore 


117 


stale or sour, to restoue 


ib 


frosted, to restore . , 


ib 


foxing, to cure, &c. 


114 


to give a rich flavour to . , 


117 



Beer, caution in the use of foreign Ingredients 
table, to bottle • 

bottled, to ripen . 

ginger powders, to make 
Bees, to avoid injury from . 

management of . 

to work in glass hives , 
straw hives . 
box hives 

lieclagon, box and straw ] 
the common hive 
to establish an apiary 
to swarm 
to iiive 

to unite swarms, he. 
to feed ' 

by an improved machine 
to manage generally 
to keep large hives for winter 
to manage on Mr Thorley's plan 
to manage on Mr Cobbett's plan 
Beets, brandy from . 

sugar from . ', 

Bell-metal, to prepare . 

Bergamotte water, to distil . 
Beverages, miscellaneous 
Biles 
Birch oil 

Binding, improved mode of 
Birds, to draw in water colours 
Biscuits, fancy, to make . 

sponge 

Savoy , , 

Bismutli ores, to assay 
Bites and stings of noxious animals, Ssc. 

of reptiles and insects . 

Blacking, to make 
liquid 

cake, Bailey's, to make, 
halls for shoes 
Japan, liquid 
Bladder, inflammation of the 
Blanc-mange, to make, f«c. . 
lemon . . 

Mrs Hoff'man's 
Bleaciiing and scouring 

liquors,, improved to prepare 
sulphuret of lime for 
bleaching, suli)hurous acids for 
to full cloths, woollens, &c. 
to wash chintz . 

to wash fine lace or linen 
to clean black and wiiite sarcenets 
to wasli and stain tiffanies 
to wasli and starch lawns 
to clean buff'-coloured cloth 
to make saponaceous ley for washing 
to clean and starch point lace 
to clean white veils 
black do 
wiiite, satin and flowered silks 
coloured silks of all kinds 
black do 
to dip rusty do 
to clean silk stockings 
to extract grease from coloured silks and 

muslins 
to take stains out of silks 
to take spots of paint from cloth, ha, 
to scour yarn . . , 

thick cotton counterpanes 
undyed woollens 
clothes, coats, pelisses, &c. 
carpets, hearth-rugs, &c. . 
to clean cotton gowns , 

scarlet cloth , 

to dip scarlet cloth 



'Bleaching and scourin», 

' to raise the nap on cloth . 

' to revive faded black cloth 

• to dry clean cloth 

' to take iron mould out of linen 

' to make breeches ball 

clothes do 
' to take grease out of leather breeches 

to prepare a chemical liquor for boot 

to remove oil from feathers 

to cle:<n leather 

to make scouring balls 

to clean marble 

to remove stains from silver plate 

to make plate look like new 

to take out fruit spots from cloth 

to clean gold lace and embroidery 

to remove grease from cloth 
from p;iper 

to take mildew out of linen 

to take out spots of ink 

to take out stains from cloth or silk 

to clean gloves without wetting 

Fuller's purilier for woollens 

to clean all sorts of metal ., 

to remove stains from mahogany 

to take out writing 

to restore whites in old pictures 

to restore hangings, carpels, &c, 

to clean ))aper hangings 
Bleach, to, cloths . _ 

linen, &.C. by oxymuriatic acids 

by osymuriate of lime 

by sulphuret of lime 

by alkalized steam 

cotton 

•wool . 

silk 

prints and printed bocks 

wool, silk, straw hats, &cc. 

shell-lac, way to 
Bleeding at tlie nose, to stop 

from wounds do . 

from the lungs do • 

from the stomach do 

to perform the operation of 
Ulindness, night 
lilotclied face 

Blubber, mode of applying as manure 
lioeihaave's rules for preserving health 
IJoiibons, to make 
LJoue, use of as manure 

to dye different colours 
Bonnets, straw, to bleach 
Hooks, printed, to bleach 
■ method of binding 

to cover with leather 

half bound 
Boots, to render water proof . 
Bool-tops, chemical liquor for 
I Boots and shoes, to clean • 

I to prevent leaking . 

; Bougies, directions for passing 
BouiUi en malelolte , . 

Box- wood, to dye brown . 

' for engraving . . 

jBi'ain, inflammation of the . 

concussion ot the • 

' compression of the • 

i Brass, to prepare . • 

i fine casting of . • 

solder, for iron, to make . 

ornaments, to preserve .. 
( to polish . 

j Brawn, mock, to make . 

j Brandy, British, to make 

to improve . . 



tops 



SO, 



99 
ib 
ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

100 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ibl 

ib 

101 

ib 

ib 

ib ! 

ib 

ib 

ib 

94 

95 

ib 

ib 

ib 

96 

ib 

ib 

97 

99 

97 

202 

221 

204 

205 

230 

201 

217 

324 

260 

181 

824 

92 

99 

97 

393 

ib 

ib 

405 

99 

388 

417 

231 

1G7 

9.3 

78 

201 

221 

ib 

11 

12 

13 

887 

31 

1G9 

141 

142 



INDEX. 429 

Brandy, Cognlac, to imitate . . 141 
from treacle . . , 14'^ 
potatoes . . • ib 
beets . . . lU 
cherry, to make . , 147 
black, to make . . ib 
caraway . , , ib 
lemon . . , ih 
orange . . . ih 
raspberry . . , ib 
Breath, to sweeten . . . 190 
Brew-house, to fit up a small . . 106 
Brewing . , _ . ih 
to choose water for . . ib 
improvement in . .110 
to cool worts in . 108, 394 
Brew, to, porter on the London plan . 108 
on Mr Morris's plau . . 109 
brown stout . . . ib 
London ale . . , ib 
ale in small families . . ib 
table beer from pale malt . 110 
from sugar and treacle . ib 
ale and small beer on Mr Cobbett'splan ib 
porter from sugar and malt . HI 
Barnstable, Burton, Dorchester, Edin- 
burgh, Essex, Nottingham, Ring- 
wood, Welsh, Windsor, ale 112, 113 
Yof-k shire oat . . .114 
with Needham's portable machine . 113 
porter, with table beer after . 114 
bran beer . . . . ih 
cheap do . . . ib 
beer and ale from pea shells . ib 
amber beer . , . 115 
molasses beer . , . ib 
spruce beer . . . 114 
sugar beer . . , ib 
Brewing utensils, to preserve . . 117 
use of sugar in , , 119 
Bread, qualities of . , . 403 
potatoe . . .172 
excellent ... . 361 
with little reast . . ib 
London baker's . . . ib 
household . . . 362 
to produce one-third more from a given 

quantity . . , ib 

French . . . ib 

mixed . . . ib 

bran . . . . . ib 

leaven, to make . . ib 

four quartern loaves . , ib 

clieap, to make . , ib 

of Iceland moss and flour . ib 

on Cobbett's plan . . ib 

adulterated, to detect . . 363 

Breeches ball, to make . . 99 

leather, to remove grease from . ib 

Brimstone, like marble, to make . 70 

Bristles, to dye green . .93 

blue and red . . , ib 

Britannia metal, to make . . 12 

Bfonchocele or goitre . . 213 

Broiize, to prepare . . .12 

to plaster tigures . , 30 

Brushes, choice of, for miniature painting 65 

Budding trees, method of . . 1i37 

shield . . . ib 

by double ligatures . . 238 

Bugs, to prevent, &c. , . 387 

Buns, common, to make ■ . . 179 

cross . . . ib 

Burns and scalds '. . . 230 

liniments for . . , ih 

Burnishing, to gild bj" 1 , . 15 

Butter, qualities oi , . . 402 



430 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Butter, to cure 

to remove the turnip flavour fi«m 
to muke, Dumbarton way . 
Russian way . 

of roses . • 

Bubo . • • 



C. 

Cabbages, qualities of . 

to keep caterpillars from . 

to keep tlie red spider from 

to preserve for sea voyages 
Cajeput oil, to obtain 
Cakes, see pastry 
Calf, or other skins, to tan 
Calico printing, process of 

to dye nankin colour 
various colours 

to mix the tin with indigo 

to dye dove colour and drab 
different colours 

to prepare substitute for gum 
Calves, to rear 

without milk 
Camomile, oil of _ 

Camphor, from essential oils, to obtain 

japan 

mixture, to prepare 
Cancer 

of the yard 
Candlesticks and snuffers, to clean 
Candles, substitute for 

wax, to make 
Canvass, to make water proof 
Caoutchouc varnish, to make 
Capillaire, to make 
Capsicum, to raise 
Carbuncle 

Card work, to varnish 
Cayenne pepper, to make 
Carmine 

for dyeing, to prepare 
Carpels, to scour 

to restore . 

to print 

to choose 
Caraway cordial, to make 

oil, to obtain 
Carrots, qualities of . 

to cultivate 

spirits from . 

Carvin^g, art of 

a leg of mutton 

a shoulder of mutton 

a leg of pork 

a shoulder of pork 

an edge bone of beef 

a knuckle of veal 

a roasted breast of veal 

a saddle of mutton 

a spare rib of pork 

half a calf's head boiled 

a ham 

a haunch of venison 

an ox tongue 

a brisket of beef 

a buttock of beef 

a sirloin of beef 

a fore quarter of lamb 

a fillet of veal 
~ a roast pig 

a rabbit 

a goose 

a pheasant 

a partridge 

a towl . 



360, 407 
3G0 
ib 
394 
148 
210 



403 

305 

ib 

393 

148 

177,413 

280 

89 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

357 

ib 

148 

149 

ib 

200 

213 

211 

339 

359 

396 

41 

34 

182 

305 

219 

25 

305 

43 

91 

99 

101 

91 

394 

146 

148 

404 

a38 

143 

419 

ib 

ib 

420 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

421 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

422 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

423 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

424 

ib 



Carving, art of 

a tin-key • * . 424 

a pigeon . • • 419 

a cod's head . • 425 

boiled salmon . . . ib 

a mackerel . . . ib 

Catheter, directions for passing tlie . 230 

Casks, musty, to sweeten . .117 

foul, to sweeten . . ib 

to sweeten, London cooper's way . 118 

new, to season . . , ib 

match for sweetening , . 137 

empty, to keep sweet . . 118 

to close without bungs . . 119 

Cassia oil, to obtain . . 148 

Casting stereotype plates, mode of . 1 J 

fine, of brass, kc. . . 12 

Casts, metallic, from copper engravings 10 

from fusible metal . . 11 

Catsup, tomatas, to make . 176, 414 

for sea store . • . 176 

Caterpillars on gooseberries, to prevent the 

ravages of . . . 299 

on shrubs, plants, &ic, . . 306 

to drive away . . . 387 

Catarrh, or cold . . .203 

Cattle, diseases of (see Farriery) . 264 

horned, cheap way of rearing . 356 

Cautions, salutary . . . 254 

to painters and glaziers . . 242 

l)reservation of health on ship board 255 
in removing from a liot to a cold situation 262 

purification of water by charcoal . 254 

to seamen on shore . . 255 

in the tropics . . ib 

preservation from drowning, &c. . 256 

in bathing , . . 259 

cleanliness . . . 255 

prevention of dampness and cold . ib 

exercise and amusements . . ib 

effects of climate . . ib 

intoxication . . . ib 

noxious VHjiours . . . 255 

captain Cook's rules for seamen . ib 

to females whose clothes are on fire 408 

prevention of this accident . ib 

10 escape liglitning . . 406 

to prevent the eftects of cold . 223 

food, qualities of, vegetable and animal 402 

general rules for preserving health . 260 

for treating diseases . 197 
SirR. Philips' rules for preserving health 260 

Dr Boerhaave's do do do ib 

exercise . . . 261 

getting wet . . . 262 

to keep the feet dry . . ib 

cold liquors in hot weather . 40S 

clothing . . . 860 

air . . . . ib 

dram-drinking . . . 408 

to procure sleep . . ib 

to relieve headach . . 201 

the air bath . . . 408 

to preserve tlie eye-sight . . 263 

cosmetics . . . 263 

the teeth . . . ib 

warts . . . 234 

accidents in general . . 220 

to detect oxalic acid . • 408 

prevention of and escape from fire . 395 

to extinguish fires in chimneys . 386 

to reiider paper fire proof . 408 

security against fire in manufactories 409 

do do in hay-stacks . ib 

scalds and burns . . 23(» 

to escape from a house on fire . 395 

Cedrat cordial, to make . ^ 14& 



INDEX. 



SI 



Cedrat, essence, to obtain • 


148 


Celery, qualities of • 


404 


Cements, . . 


101 


Cement, bnildinp^ . . 


ib 


Hamelin's . . 


102 


for floors ^ . 


ib 


for canals . , 


103 


Parker's 


ib 


for rock work and reservoirs 


ib 


mortar, to make 


ib 


Tunisian 


ib 


Dutch Terras 


ib 


Tournay . , 


ib 


Roman . . 


ib 


genuine Roman . 


ib 


Maltha or Greek mastich 


ib 


Indian . . 


ib 


impenetrable mortar 


ib 


Wycli's stucco 


ib 


Williams's stucco 


104 


iron, to make . 


ib 


water 


ib 


fire and water-proof 


ib 


Turkish, for joining metal, glass 


ib 


Yates's water-i)roof 


ib 


common, for alabaster, &cc. 


ib 


to make lutes 


ib 


for iron, culinary utensils 


105 


'I'urner's, to make 


ib 


for joinii)!; broken glasses • 


ib 


strong, for electrical uses 


ib 


for glass-grinders 


ib 


for bi'oken glass . 


ib 


for Derbysliire spar, &c. 


ib 


to resist boiling water and steam 


ib 


blood, for coppersmiths 


loe 


Japanese or rice glue 


ib 


royal, to make 


19 


for metals, to make 


385 


mahogany-coloured 


ib 


microscopic 


106 


for entomologists 


ib 


for steam engines, two 


105 


patent . . 


392 


Laplander's 


412 


Cerate, of Spanish flies 


251 


I'urner's 


ib 


Chairs, old leather, to restore blackness to 


32 


to i-estore . . 


101 


Chalk mixture 


2ur 


(Jiialks for drawing 


53 


Chamois, imitation of 


283 


Chancres . . 


210 


Charcoal, to make 


140 


for drawing 


53 


to protect from the effects of 


261 


Clieese, qualities of 


402 


green gooseberry, to make 


172 


Damson 


184 


Cheshire 


361 


Stilton, substitute for 


395 


I'armesan, to imitate . . 


■ b 


cakes, various , . 


180 


Cherries, qualities of . . 


404 


to dry . . . 


186 


Chesiiut, horse, uses of . . 


282 


Chesnuts, to preserve . 


309 


Chest, dropsy of . . . 


204 


wounds in the . . 


223 


Chicken pox . . . 


216 


Chickens, to manage 


358 


pie of . . . 


T63 


10 hatch 


358 


au soleil 


ler 


Chilblains, to remove . ' 


234, 394 


Children, management and diseases of 


216 


infant nursing . . . 


.b 



Children, management and diseases of 




friction . , 


24.e 


position , . 


il 


exercise 


ib 


to prevent distortion . 


Jh 


to render hardy 


il 


cleanliness and bathing 


. ii 


dressing 


ib 


heat and cold , , 


ib 


food and drink . . 


. id 


early rising 


ib 


walking 


i^ 


sleep . , 


ib 


restlessness 


247 


the nursery . , 


ib 


nurses . , 


ib 


external impressions , 


ih 


amusements . , 


ib 


retention of the mecomum 


ih 


the yellow gum . 


ib 


vomiting . , 


ib 


hiccups 


ib 


griping and flatulency , 


ib 


diarrhoea 


ib 


excoriations 


ib 


cutaneous eruptions 


248 


tlie thrush 


ib 


falling of the fundament 


ib 


dentition , , 


ib 


scarifying tiie gums 


ib 


convulsions . , 


ib 


inward fits . , 


ib 


the rickets 


ib 


distorted spine 


249 


ring- worm and scald head 


ib 


I hooping-cough 


ih 


1 croup 


ib 


1 Chinmeys, smoky, to cure . 


385 


1 to clean . . 


ib 


on fire, to extinguish 


386, 408 


China ware, to manufacture . 


369 


to bake . 


370 


Saxon or Dresden 


ib 


English, composition of . 


ib 


glaze for printing blue frit 


3ri 


to prepare 


ib 


for flotts 


ib 


and glass, to clean and pack 


388 


Chinese sheet lead, to make 


18 


Chintz, to wash 


97 


Chlorosis 


243 


Chocolate, qualities of 


404 


to make 


15- 


drops 


182 


Cholera morbus (see Medicine) 


206 


Chowder . , 


172 


Cider, to make 


120 


Devonshire , , 


ib 


Scotch . , , 


121 


to manage 


ib 


cheap, from raisins 


ib 


general rules for making . . 


ib 


CinnabiU', humid assay of . . 


8 


Cinnamon, cordial, to make . 


146 


strong . . 


ib 


oil of, to obtain 


148 


water, to make 


151 


Citron cordial, to make 


146 


Citrons, to obtain the essence of • 


391 


Clay, burning, Mr Craig's method 


323 


Cloth, cotton, to dye black . . 


85 


black, to dye greeu . . 


88 


to bleach . . . 


94 


to full 


95 


to render water-proof . 


29,41 


common waxed . , 


29 


fine printed, varnished . . 


it 



432 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Cloth, buff-coloured, to clean 
to take out fruit stains from 
to take spots of paint from 

jjrease from 
scarlet, to clean and dip 
tlie nap on, to raise 
faded black, lo revive 
to dry clean 
Clothes ball, to make 
Clothes, to brush 
to preserve 
to scour 

to take out grease from 
to perfume 
Clove cordial, to make 

drops, to obtain 
Cloves, oil of 
Coal-tar, to make gas from 
Coats, to scour 
Cobalt ores, to assay . 

oxide of, to prepare 
Cocoa, sassafras . 

substitutes for 
Coflee, qualilies of ■ 
to make 
substitutes for 
acorn 

Arabian method of making 
improvement in 
Parisian metiuid of making 
milk, to make 
drops 

pot, improved 
Coins, easy mode of taking impressions from 
Cold, intense, remedies for 

and dampness, to prevent the eBects of 
liquors, ettects of, lo prevent 
Colds, remedies for 
emulsion for 
gargles for 
Colic 

painter's . 

Colour, to, steel blue 
Coloui's, oil and water 

for house painting, to mix 
black paint, to make 
lamp-black 

black, from ground pit-coal 
wine lees 
ivory and bone 
blue and blue distemper 
paint, (Prussian) 
Saxon 
verditer 
chamois and buff 
chesnut 

crimson or rose . 
green 

cheap 

(sea) for distemper 

varnish and oils 
compound, for rooms 
for carriage wheels 
paint, cheap 
grey, (light) and distemper 
flaxen 
pearl 
jonquil 
olive, for oil and varnish 

for distemper 
fine black ■ 

chesnut 
oak wood 
red, for carriages 
cuftet* . 
bright 
violet . 



97 

100 

98 

100 

99 

ib 

ib 

ib 

100 

390 

387 

94 

390 

190 

146 

18-2 

148 

391 

94 

7 

C9 

157 

158 

404 

159 

157 

ib 

159 

ib 

160 

ib 

18'i 

390 

395 

2'2S 

255 

408 

236 

ib 

ib 

207 

208 

21 

35 

ib 

ib 

36 

ib 

ib 

ib 

38 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

39 

ib 

38 

40 

38 

ib 

39 

ib 

37 

36 

S7 

ib 

ib 

38 

ib 

400 

39 

37 

39 

ib 

ib 

ib 



Colours, oil and water 

walnut wood . • 

white paint 
vhite distemper 

house paint, economical 
yellow, Naples and Montpellier 
golden * . 

artist's oil 

azure, to make an excellent 
blue 

verditer 

Saxon, artificial 
Prussian 
liquid, superb 
cobalt, bleu de Thenard 
carmine, to prepare . 

cochineal, substitute for 
green . . 

Scheele's . . 

Brunswick 

new . , 

paint, to improve . 
lake, from Brazil-wood 
from other matters 
carminated, from madder 
from scarlet cloth . 
improvement in do . 
fine red . . 

beautiful do . 

Florentine • 

from madder 
to give various tones to 
orange and yellow 
pink . . 

fine brown 
Dutch, from woad . 

from yellow berries 
brownish yellow 
for oil painting . 

purple . . 

red . . . 

dark 
rouge . . 

ultra-marine 

to extract the remainder of 
to test • . 

violet, to prepare . 

white, pearl 

durable, for painters 
yellow, lemon 

Chinese . . 

Montpellier . 

Naples 
patent 
flesh, to imitate . , 

used in encaustic painting . 
compound for receiving 
mixed, to prepare . 

directions for using 
to mix mineral substances in linseed oil 
Colouring materials 
Colours, wash, for maps, to prepare 
blue, red, green, yellow, 
water, used in drawing 

im))lements . 

to draw in . 

general or simple 
blacks, blues, browns, crimsons, greens, 
lakes, purples, reds, whites, yellows, 



to prepare 
yellows, from French berries 
mixed, directions for . 

to prevent from cracking . 
solution of gum for . 

to keep oft' flies , 

alum water, to prepare for 
lime water , , 



49, 50, ; 



INDEX. 



433 



Colours, lixivium of pearl-ashes 

decayed, to restore 

to keep from sinking 

for animals, to mix . 

to draw fruits in . 

birds in 
rules for painting landscapes in 

for sketching portraits from lil 
primitive and tiieir combinations 
for painting on velvet 
Com])osts, to i)repare 
for manure 
for moulds 
for plants 

Lord Meadowbank's 
Compression of tlie brain 
Confectionary 
drops 

sugar, to prepare for candying 
to candy , . 

candied, to colour . 
barley, to make . 
cand)', white, do 
loaf, to clarify 
coarse, brown, do 
to improve and increase 
starch, to make 
birch, to make 
pear 
grape 
devices in 
bon-bons, to make 
ginger, to candy , 

iiorehound, do , 

orange-peel, do 
lemon-peel, do . 

Avhipt syllabub, to niake 
solid do do 

snow balls do 

capillaire do . 

chocolate drops do . 

orange flower do do . 

coifee do do . 

peppermint do do . 

clove do do 

ginger do do 

liquorice lozenges do . 

extract of do 
juice of do 
refined do . 

marmalade, orange, to candy 

transparent, to make 
barberry 
quince 
Scotch 
•*^ Jelly, hartshorn . 

currant, and black currant 
calf's foot . 
ivory . 

strawbeny 
gooseberry 
cream, whipt 

pistachio 

ice . • 

raspberry . 

jam,raspberi'y, and strawberry 
paste, raspberiy . 

orgeat . 

patede gui mauve 

jujubes . . 

Damson cheese . 
omelette souffle, (see Culinaiy Arts) 
Conservatoi-y, to make a 
Consumption, (see Medicine) . 
Contagious disorders, (see Small Pox, Putrid 
Fever, iVc.) 
air, to purify, (see Air) . . 

^ E 



53 

ib 

ib 

55 

ib 

56 

ib 

ib 

64 

66 
286 
285 

ib 
286 ! 
S20 
221 
180 
182 
180 

ib 
182 
181 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 
182 
181 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 
182 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 
183 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 
413 
249 
184 

ib 

183 

ib 

ib 

184 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

lb 

ib 

286 

204 



241 



Contagious disorders, 

air, permanent and portable apparatus, 

to purify 
preparation of acetic acid 
aromatic vinegar, two kinds 
balsamic and anti-putrid vinegar 
Concussion of tlie brain 
Contusions 

Convulsions, in pregnancy 
Cookery . , 

to boil meats 

bake do . , 

roast do . . 

fiy do . . 

salt do 
pickle do 
regulate time in 
veal, savoury, to make 
cake, to make 
choice of 
breast of, glacee 
shoulder, en galantine 
ragout of, cold . 

to carve 
fowls, to dress, game fashion 
wild 

choice of 

qualities of ; 

chicken, au soleil . 

en salmis 
aux choux 
eggs and bacon, artificial, to make 
pork, loin of, Portuguese way 
dry deviis 

olio, to make . . 

beefsteak pudding . 

leg of, to pot , 

a la mode . 

en bouilli . , 

en matelotte 
en daube 
tongue, beef 's, aux champigaons 
fish, en matelotte 
flounders . , 

terapins . , 

oysters . , 

eels, to pot 
lobster or crab, do 
duck, olive sauce . 

sausages, Bologna, to make 
Oxfoi'd, do . 

Epping, do , 
savaloys, to make 

French stew of green peas and bacon 
brawn, mock, to make 
fast-day's dish 
omelette, military . 

onion . , 

French , 

frumenty 
raspberry dumplings , 

cream tarts 
pie, pigeon, giblet, rump steak, chick- 
en, rabbit, raised French, raised hamj 
raised pork, eel, raised lamb, peri- 



gord 
pigeons, en compote 
pigeons, aux choux 
puff paste . , 

short crust . , 

paste for large pies , 

lor ta.rls , 

potatoes, to keep , 

to steam . 

herrings, economical use of 
sack posset, to make 
ale do do 



168, 



69—1 



M 



434 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Cookery 

green gooseberry cheese . . 

bread, potatoe, to make . 
potatoes, frosted, to use . . 

broth jelly, to make 
sauces, (see Sauces) . . 

soups, (see Soups) . . 

rnaccaroni, to make . • 

gravy cakes . • • 

catsup, toraata ... 
for sea . . . 

ragouts . . 

Cook's, captain, rules for preserving the 

health of seamen 
Copper, ores, to assay 
test for 

blanched, to prepare 
to detect in pickles or tea . 
for foils . . . 

plated, to separate silver from 
plates, to free from grease 

to secure from corrosion 
to choose for engraving 
to apply varnish to 
plate, to take an impression from, on 
plaster . _ 

Cordials or compound spirits 
general rules for making 
anise-seed, caraway, cedrat, cinnamon, 
strong cinnamon, citron, clove, cori- 
ander, eau de bigarade, gold, lemon, 
lovage, nectar, noyau, orange, pepper- 
mint, ratafia, dry ratafia, whiskey, 146- 
gout do ... 

Corn, Indian, to cultivate 

advantages of reaping, before ripe 
to secure against insects . .' 

mice . . i 

to tread, Virginia manner . 
to clean from chaff, by fanners 
Corns, treatment of 

to prevent ... 

Cosmetics . • 

Costiveness, remedy for . . 

Cotton, to bleach . . 

Coughs and colds, remedies for (see Catarrh) 
candied horehound 
paregoric elixir . 

expectorant pUls . . 

Cough mixture . . 

medicine, Dr Monro's 
simple remedy for . • 

to allay at night 

chronic, remedy for . • 

in aged persons . • 

recent . • • 

emulsions . 

troublesome, and spitting of blood, to 
allay 
Counterpanes, thick cotton, to scour 
Court plaster ' 

Cows, improved mode of feeding . 

Cow feeder, directions to the . « 

milch, to choose • • 

economy of a , . . 

Crabs, to pot ... 

to choose . . . 

Cramp, in the stomach . 

in bathing . . 

Crayons, to paint in . . 

implements . . 

drawing the outlines . . 

painting from life . . 

])0sture and light . . 

features of the face « . 

the neck, k.c. . , . 

draperies, 8ic. . . . 



173 

ib 

ib 

174 

175 

172 

175 

176 

ib 

ib 

ib 

256 
6 

392 
12 

392 
5 

.7 
78 
ib 
79 
77 

412 

146 

ib 



-148 

240 

327 

329 

337 

ib 

316 

317 

234 

ib 

187 

238 

96 

236 

181 

236 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

411 

98 

252 

356 

ib 

357 

ib 

166 

426 

205 

259 

56 

ib 

ib 

ib 

57 

ib 

ib 

58 



Crayons, coloured, to prepare " '• 58 

arrangement of . , 59 

carminated lake, for . .. 54 

for drawing, to make . , ib 

Cream, qualities of . . 402 

whipt, to make . . 183 

pistachio . . . ib 

ice ... ib 

raspberry . . .184 

substitute for . • . . 360 

painter's . • .25 

Creme de Barbades, real . , 144 

noyeau de Martinique . 145 

d'orange . . . ib 

Crickets, to destroy . . .413 

Croup, in children, remedies for . 249 

Crows, to banish from a field . . 338 

Crucibles, to make . . . 371 

Crumpets, do . . . 178 

Cucumbers . . . 301 

to cultivate . . .300 

to pickle . . .185 

to preserve . . . 187 

qualities of . . . 404 

Culinary ai-ts . . . 163 

Currants, qualities of . • 404 

Curry, to make a . . .173 

powder . . . ib 

Curwen's mode of burning surface, soil and clay 322 

Custards, (see Pastry) . . 178 

Cuts . . . .221 

Cuttings, for plants, to choose . 289 

to propagate by . . . ib 

to insert . . . 290 

to manage . ' . . ib 

D. 

Daffy's elixir, to prepare . . 252 

Dairy, to manage a . ^ . 356 

maid, directions to . . ib 

Damsons, to preserve . .186 

Damson cheese, to make . .184 

Dance of St Vitus . . 214 

Daniel's life preserver , . 257 

Deafness in old persons, to cure . 397 

Death, sudden, cautions respecting . 406 

Delft-ware, to make . 370 

Debility, treatment of . . 205 

Decanters, to clean . . 390 

Decline, remedy for , . 4l7 

Devils, drv, to make . ,166 

Diabetes ' ... 209 

Dials, transparent, for clock? . . 396 

Diarrhosa, to check . . 207 

various remedies for . 239 

Diet, substances used in . . 402 

qualities of animal and vegetable . ib 

beef, veal, mutton, lamb, house lamb, 
pork, hams, bacon, goat's flesh, veTii- 
son, blood of animals, milk, cream, 
butter, cheese, fowls, turkeys, wild 
fowls, eggs, fish, oysters, muscles, 
periwinkles, bread, pastry, oats, bar- 
ley, I'ice, potatoes, peas, beans, 
salad, spinach, asparagus, artichokes, 
cabbages, turnips, carrots, parsnips, 
parsley, celery, onions, garlic, &c. ra- 
dishes, apples, pears, cherries, plums, 
peaches and currants, apricots, goose- 
berries, strawberries, cucumbers, tea, 
coft'ee, chocolate, 402—404 

Dietetic composition, uutritious . 15? 

Digestion, to improve . . 239 

Digestive pills . . ib 

Di[)pel's oil, to obtain . . 1*9 

Diseases peculiar to females . . 242 

hysteric fits . . . ib 



Diseases peculiar to females 






hysteric fits, pills for . 


243 


debility 


ib 


fluor albus, or whites 


ib 


regimen, &e. 


ib 


tonic and astringent pills 


ib 


prevention of 


ib 


immoderate flow of the menses 


ib 


astringent fomentations 


ib 


laxative mixture 


ib 


regimen, &c. 


244 


green sickness . 


243 


regimen, &c. 


244 


chalybeate pills and draught for 


ib 


tonic draught 
tincture ot iodine 


ib 


ib 


cessation of the menses 


ib 


regimen, &c. 


ib 


dropsy, remedies for 


244, 401 


vomiting during pregnancy 


ib 


sickness in do 


ib 


heart-burn 


ib 


head-ach . . 


ib 


hysteria 


ib 


costiveness and piles 


ib 


itchings 


ib 


swelling of the feet, &C. 


ib 


cramp 


245 


in the stomach 


ib 


distention and cracking of the skin 


ib 


of the veins 


ib 


incontinency of urine 


ib 


restlessness and want of sleep 


ib 


convulsions 


ib 


the milk fever 


ib 


remedies 


ib 


regimen . . 


ib 


inflamed breasts 


ib 


sore nipples . 


ib 


puerperal fever . 


ib 


remedies . . 


246 


regimen 


ib 


Diseases of children, (see Cliildren) 


ib 


Dislocations, treatment of 


2-25 


of the lower jaw, collarbone, shoulde 


[•, 


elbow, wrist, fingers, &c., thigi 




knee, leg, foot 


226 


Distemper, red, for tiles, to make 


40 


in badigeon, to 


ib 


sea-green, for . • . 


38 


blue, for 


ib 


olive, for . . . 


ib 


to paint ia . . . 


36 


white 


ib 


Distillation . . 


138 


utensils used in . . 


ib 


to preserve flowers for 


150 


of compound spirits . . 


146 


of essential and other oils . 


148 


of compound waters 


151 


Distilleries, fires in, to extinguish 


140 


Dogs, purging ball for 


274 


ointment for the mange 


ib 


best breed of, for shooting game 


417 


to know the age of, to six years 


ib 


liniment for 


274 


mercurial do for red mange , 


ib 


mild ointment for 


ib 


lotion for 




ib 


distemper in . 




ib 


Doses, medicinal 




264 


Domestic economy 




356 


Dover's powders 




250 


Drain, under, to, clay lands 




347 


to, lands 




343 


Dram-drinking, to remedy effects of 


408 


Draining, pit . 


• 


S48 



INDEX. 435 

Draining land, Bailey's plan for , 348 

Drains, main, to construct . . ib 

to fill , . . ib 

Draperies, &c. to paint . .64 

Draw, to, in water colours . , 49 

on glass and on stone . 67, 68 

Drawings, to preserve . .54 

to varnisb . . 

water colours used in 

gloss on, to prevent 

black lead pencil, to preserve 

to copy 

in crayons, to fix 
Drawing pencils, artificial black-lead 
Englishj to make 
crayons 
Dresses, mourning, to free from stains 
Drop, the black, composition of 
Dropsy 

of tlie cliest . , 

of the belly , , 

Drowning, preservation from . 
assistance in 

to extricate from broken ice 
suffocation by 
removal of the body 
free circulation of fresh air 
number of assistants 
inflation of the lungs 
warm fomentations 
fumigations and clysters 
warm bath 
agitation 

administration of cordials 
bleeding, he. 
Duck, olive sauce 
Dum|)lings, raspberry 
Dung l)eds, to form 

to increase, by soiling 
Dutcl) drops, to obtain 
Dyeing, ia all its varieties 
mordants for 
to clioose and apply 
use of alum as a mordant . 
acetite of alumina . 
white oxide of tin . 
red oxide of iron 
tan, &c. 
to determine the effects of various 

dants on colours 
to determine the effects of various waters 

on colours 
to render colours holding . 
chemical blue and green, for, to make 
colours for, to discharge . 
to discharge cinnamons, greys, &c. when 

dyed too full 
materials, to purchase for . 
to make solution of tin in aqua regia 
to make muriate of tin 
to prove the colours of dyed stuffs 
to prepare realgar for 
Dye, to, woollen cloths and wool, blue 
to re-dye the colours of garments 
to alum silks 
to, silk blue 
cotton and linen blue 
yellow 

to, woollens yellow 
silks .' . 

linens and cottons 
to fix a mineral yellow on wool, silk, 

ton, hemp. See. 
red 

woollens red, crimson and scarlet 
to cany the colour into the body of the 
clotli . . S5 



4m 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT nOOK. 



Dye, nilks red, ci'imHon, he. to 

Jiiii-iiHiiixl coUoiis red, scarlet, &c. . 
Muck 

to, woollens l)lack 
silks 

colloiis niid linens . . 

Avool, Sti-.. Iirown 
I compound colours . • 

diiriTcnt shades of p;rc(!n . * 

violet, purple and lilac 
olive, oraii(!;e and cinnamon 
grey, dral) ami <lark brown 
black upon cotton, linen and mixed poods 
olives, boUle-nrcens, purples, browns,ciii- 

nanioiis, or snidl's 
crimson, red, oiauf^c, or yellow 
cotton, wool, and silk, with Prussian blue 
Itayniond blue . 

shades of colour, to graduate from rrua- 

sian blue 
to precipitate acetates of lead and copper 

on wool, silk, and cotton 
cotton cloth, black 
■wool, n [lermmient bhie colour 
to produce tin; Swiss red topical mordants 
silks ftud satins, brown, in the small way 
lawn colour drabs 
silk shawls, crimson 
flilk,lilnc 
thick silks, satins, silk stockings, &c. a 

ilcsli colour 
tilk 8tockin)(s, black 
f.tiaw and chip bonnets, black 
ditto t)onneln, brown 
to remove tlie stain of light colours from 

the hands . . . 

black cloth, green . 

calico printing 
to apply the mordants 
slull's for calico printing 
to, calico, y(tllow 
to, nankeen, yellow 
I red, blue 

lilac, bi-own, gr(!(;n 

to mix the solution of tin with indigo 

calico, dove colour and drub 

diilerent colours 
to prej)are a sulislitule for gum used in 
calico printing 
Ijtycing, calico, process of 

madder, colouring principle, to separate, 

new process for 
anatlo lor, to prepare 
int.: of 
to choose 
litmus for, to prepare . 

bastard satlVon for . . 

utility of sheep's dung for . 

vvoad for, to \)re[)are 
indigo for, to JU'epare . 

carmine for, do . . 

/natter from potato-tops 
carpets . . . 

liats, process of . • 

•wood for, to prepare 
blue turnsole for . • 

luiscellaneous receipts for 
to, red hair black , . 

hair, to change the colour of 
bristles or feathers, green . 

blue and red . 

liorse-hair . , . 

gloves . k • 

■white gloves, purple 
gloves resendiling i/uncrick . 

})(jne and ivory, red 

])\,\di, gvitcn . -. 



ib 



Dyeing, bone, purple, yellow, and blue . 92 

oak, a maliogany colour . . 9.1 

i-l)ony, black . . , ib 

bccidi wr)od, a maliogany colour . ib 

musical instruments, crimson . il> 

purple . ib 

box-wond, brown . . ib 

wood, silver grey . . ib 

bright yellow . . ib 

green . . . ib 

red . . . ilj 

piu'|i1e . . . ib 

line blue . . . ib 

paper, or i)archment, yellow . ib 

crimson, gi'eeu . . ib 

orange, ptu'ple . . ib 

born, tortoisc-sbdl colour . 94 

of dilVerent colours . ib 

Dyspepsia . • . 205 

Dysentery . . . 200 

Ducks, choice of . . . 420 

E. 

Ear, inflammation of the, remedies for . 202 

accumidalion of wax in the . ib 

extraneous bodies in the, to extract . 2,34 

Ear-ache, Indian cure for , . 397 

Earths and ores containing gold, to assay 9 

Eau de Hai-bade . . . 144 

sans ))areil • • . IJI 

divine • • . 144 

debigarade . . . 140 

de luce . . . 25t) 

de cologne . . .187 

de nielisse des carmcs . . ib 

de bouipiet . . .188 

Economy, rural and domestic . , 350 

Edge-tools, from cast iron and steel . 21 

Eels, to pot . . . 10(5 

pie . . . 109 

Eggs, glare of . . . 53 

(uid bacon, artificial . . 105 

to i)reservc . . 300, 394 

qualities of . . . 403 

Ebxirical machinery, cushions of, alloy for H 

Elixir, Daily's . . . 252 

Elenhaiit's milk, to prepare . . 144 

Embroidery, to clean . . 100 

Embrocation, for tooth-ache and rheumatism 413 

l''inissions, involimtary . • 210 

liuamelling, act of . . . 71 

the llux . . .73 

Enamel, to, dial plates . . 72 

purple, used in mosaic . . ib 

while, for i)orcelain . . ib 

for metals and fine work . ib 

new, for porcelain . . ib 

red (lich), black, brown, blue, green, 

olive, purple, rose-coloured, yellow, 73 

mo(bs of application . . ib 

Enamels, opaipie, to prepare . . 72 

materials for . ib 

coloured, cautions in making . 74 

general method of making ib 

black, ■witfi platina, to obtain . ib 

called Niello, to make . . ib 

to paint in . . . il> 

encaustic painting, compound for colours 49 

Engrave, to, on stone . . 00 

on wood . , .79 

on co)>per . . .70 

on cbiar' oscuro • .80 

in aito relievo . . ,70 

in mexzo tinto • . .79 

in aipia tinta . . , ib 

on precious stones . . 80 

on steel . . , ib 



INDEX. 



Engravinn; . , ,-.75 

ditrci-fnt modes of . . il) 

to clioose copper lor . . 7'J 

elcliinj; . . .75 

materials . . . ili 

to lay on the ground . . il) 

to truce liie outlines . . ili 

directions for . . il) 

to ciit in the work . . il) 

on glass . . .80 

tools, lo wjiet and temper the graver 7R 

to liold the graver . . il/ 

to lay the design npon llie ))latc . il) 

licnibrandt's white varnibh tor , 77 

Fallot's soft . . . ih 

Salmon's . . . il) 

Parisian . . . ih 

J.awrt'ni-e's . . . ih 

Lc IJosse's hard . . 78 

to hiacken the varnish . . ih 

soft, to take oil" . . . ih 

hard, do . . . ih 

to prepare box-wood for . . ih 

Engravings on glass, lo transfer . 09 

Epilei)sy . . . .21:) 

Erysipelas . . . .215 

mercurial . . . ih 

EsseiMJC ol' cedrat . . .148 

lavender . . , ih 

ncroli . . . ih 

to ohtnin , . . 391 

Essential oils, (see Oils) . . ih 

Etch, to, upon glass . . 80 

Ether, to make . . .141 

Evil, the king's . . . 212 

Exercise, advantages of . . 201 

i-idiiig and walking . . ih 

alter tncals . . « ih 

dillerent kinds of , . ih 

standing and sitting . . ih 

Eye waters . . . 235 

lids, inflamed, rem(rdy for . ih 

sight, to presei-ve the . . 202 

inllanimalion of the . . 201 

sore, original receipt for . . 405 

F. 

Faintingfits . , ,21.3 

Fallow, to conduct a , . 31 o 

quantity of dung for . .319 

time of spreading do . , ih 

intermediate dunging for , . ih 

Famished j)erson8, to restore . . 4or 

Fans, for cleaning corn . .317 

Fasting day's dish, to make . . 109 

Farriery . . .204 

cattle, wounds in to cure . ih 

adhesive plaster . . 2C5 

bandages . . . ih 

sores and bruises . . ih 

ointment for . . ih 

green . . ih 

treatment of . . 275 

food and regimen . . 205 

abscess . , , ih 

bleeding in general . . 204 

•listemper among . , 274 

cows, far water for . . ih 

garget in, to cure . . ih 

red water in, to cure . . ih 

scouring in, to cure . . ih 

swelled with green food . ih 

treatment of . . 275 

colds of eveiy description in, to cure 278 

])urgmg dritik for . . ih 

neat, to cure the jaiuidice in . 279 

inllumniatiun of llic Lraiu , . ih 



Farriery 

cows, inflammation of brain, method of 
boven, or blown in, to cure 
do cordial <lrink 
swimming in the head, to cure 
sudorilJc drink for 
liorscs, jiurgalive hall for 
do (h'iiiks 
cough di'ink for 
niihuiy or wart 
st!im;(rs 
loss of appetite; 
iiillanied bladder 
blood spavin 
blistering ointment 
bone spavin 
hots 
■worms, symptoms of 

remedies for 
inllammation of the bowels 
broken wind 

knees 
burns or scalds 
ciinker 

liniment for 
capped bocks 
cold 

convulsions 
cough . 

ball for 
corns 
curb 

cracked heels 
the gripes 

draught for 
diabetes 

ball for 
eyes 

eye water 

film or cataract 
farcy 
grease 

foundered, feet 
hoof bound 
]ami)as 
laxity 

inllammation of the lungs 
mallenders 
mange 

molten grease 
poll evil . 
iVoulticc 
(piillor 
ring hone 
sand crack . 

composition for 
sil-fasts 
sallenders 
strains . 

strangury 
strangles . 
thrush 
vives 

•wind galls . 
wounds , 

bleeding 
fulness of blood 
laxative, &c. powder 
purging 

to pi-epare for ^jliysic 
to check over purging 
cough drink 
l)Ui'gative drink for 
fever ball for 
fevers, powerful mixture fop 
inllammatory fever, dritik for 
jaundice, purging ball for 



438 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Farriery 

horses, jaundice, restorative balls after 270 
broken wind, pectoral balls for ib 

surfeit, mange, &c. alterative balls for ib 
profuse staleing, restorative balls for ib 



astringent 


269 


•worms, mercurial balls for 


270 


drink for 


ib 


purging ball for 


ib 


stomach drink after expulsion 


ib 


the staggers, balls for 


ib 


convulsions, clyster for 


ib 


gripes in, to cure 


ib 


further treatment 


271 


surfeit, or bad coat in, to cure 


272 


urine, balls for 


ib 


feet, to cure diseases in 


ib 


prevention 


ib 


lameness in, remedy for 


ib 


thrush in the feet, to cure 


273 


shoeing, in winter 


ib 


to prevent the feet from balling 


with 


snow 


ib 


the mange, ointment for 


ib 


liniment for 


ib 


eye water for 


ib 


inflammation of the lungs 


ib 


sprains, embrocation for ■ 


ib 


bracing mixture for 


ib 


bleeding, paste to stop 


ib 


scratched heels, ointment for 


ib 


greasy do do 


ib 


strains in different parts 


ib 


embrocation for . 


ib 


canker in the mouth, mixture for 


ib 


Feathers, to cleanse from animal oil 


398 


to dye, green, blue, red 


92 


Feet, to keep them dry 


262 


cold, to prevent, at night . 


407 


Feimales, cautions to, whose clothes catch : 


ire 408 


diseases peculiar to 


242 


Fermentation by various means . 


118 


of yeast, to manage 


108 


to accelerate . . , 


ib 


to check a too rapid 


ib 


vinous . , 


123 


spirituous 


ib 


of wine, to stop the 


133 


Fever, simple, inflammatory 


198 


intermittent . , 


199 


remittent . . 


ib 


bilious , . * . 


ib 


typhus . 


200 


putrid . . . 


ib 


hectic . . 


ib 


scarlet . . 


215 


milk . . . 


245 


puerperal 


ib 


Figs, dried, to improve 


412 


Filberts, to preserve 


30<} 


Filtering bag, to make a 


137 


Fining of wines 


423 


spirits 


143 


Finings, to make and apply 


136 


of white wines and spirits, to force dc 


wn 


the . . . 


ib 


Fires, recent, to extinguish . . 


395 


to escape from . . . 


ib 


in distilleries, to extinguisli 


140 


to prevent and escape from 


ib 


to escape from 


395 


in steam-boats . . . 


400 


in theatres 


401 


to extinguish in chimneys 


408 


effectuall)' 


ib 


m manufactories, security against 


409 


in hay stacks . . 


ib 



Fish, qualities of 

Fish bones, remedy on swallowing 

en matelotte, (see Cookery) 
Fistula . . 

Flatulency, remedy for , 

Flax, to cultivate 

to prepare the ground for . 

quantity of seed for 

seed, to save the 

mode of watering 

dressing, Lee's invention for, &c. &c 

new discovery for preparing 
Flies, to remove from rooms 

to prevent from settling on animals 
Flounders, with cream 
Flour, paste, to make 

new seconds, bad, to improve 

to preserve 

moist, to correct • 

chalk in, to detect 

to restore and improve 
Flowers, for distillation, to preserre 

to preserve 

to grow in winter 

to remove in summer 

bulbous, to hasten the blowing of 

faded, to restore 

to dry 

to paint in water colours 
Flower, sun, to cultivate 

to economize the , 

seeds, to preserve , 

Flute key valves, alloy for 
Flux 

remedy for . , 

metallic composition of 

crude or white, black 

Cornish, reducing , 

refining , 

Foils, to prepare . . 

copper, for . . 

to whiten • 

for, crystals, pebbles, &c. to give the 
lustre of diamonds 

to CdlotU' 

liquid for silvering glass globes 
Food, animal and vegetable, to preserve 

animal and vegetable 
qualities of . 
Fowls, treatment of . 

qualities of 

choice of . . 

game fashion 

wild 
do to catch 
Fractures, of the nose, jaw, collar bone, ar 
fore-arm, wrist, ribs, thigh, leg, k 
pan, foot . . ; 

Freezing mixture . 
Fresco, to paint in . 
Friction . . 

Frost-bitten parts, treatment of ' 
Fruits, time for gathering 

orchard, to gather 

green, to preserve . 

ripe . . . 

various sorts of . , 

to store 

to preserve in brandy , fr" 

for carriage, to pack 

to paint, in water colours . 
Frumenty, to make . 
Fuel, cheap, to make , 

Fulling cloths, woollens, &c. 
Fuller's purifier, ike. (see Bleaching) 
Furnace, portable, to use a . 

fixed, to build a 



Fuwace, sand-heaf, to make a 1 
Furniture, varnished, to polish 

paste, to make . . 

oil . 

to clean . . 

Furs, to preserve . . 

G. 



Gall stones, to remove 
Gallipot varnish, to make 

mastic, for grinding colours 
Ganglion . 

Gardeners, practical directions to 
Gardens, to water . 

to choose the best soil for . 

to prepare hot beds, composts and 
nures for . . 

to form dung beds for 

to make composts for manure 

mould 

plants . . 

to prepare composts for 
Gas, to make, from coal tar 
General rules for preserving health 

Sir R. Phillips's rules 

Dr Boerhaave's do 

air 

clothing 

ventilation of churches 
of houses 

burying in churches 

fumigation « 

noxious vapours 

to dissipate do in wells 

to protect artisans from effects of char- 
coal . 

to prevent ill effects from lamps 

to disinfect articles from the plague 

to protect gilders from mercury 
Geneva, English, to make 
Gentian water, compound 
Gild glass and porcelain, to 

leather, to . 

•writings, drawings, &c. on parchment 

edges of paper, to 

silk, satin, ivory, &C. by hydrogen gas 

on wood, with oil, to 

by burnishing, to 

copper, &c. by amalgam, to 

steel, to 

copper, so as to be rolled out into sheets 

in colours, to 

iron, or steel, with a solution of gold 

by dissolving gold in aqua regia, to 

by amalgamation, to 
\jrilding • • • 

gold powders for . 

Grecian « • 

mordant varnish for . 

metal • • 

for common jewellery 
Gin, to prepare, as in Holland . 

rectification, in Holland . 
Ginger beer, to- make 

powders • 

drops . 

bread, plain • . 177, 

to candy • • 

Glass and porcelain, to paint and staltl 

to cement . 

to draw on 

globes, liquid foils for silvering 

to ornament, in imitation of engraving 

to break, in any required way 

to varnish . . 

to etch upon 



139 

31 

ib 

ib 

389 

387 



406 

27 

ib 

219 

310 

291 

2S-i 

ma- 

285 

ib 

ib 

ib 

286 

ib 

391 

260 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

261 

241 

261, 407 

261 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

143 

153 

14 

15 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

16 

ib 

ib 

17 

ib 

ib 

ib 

14 

16 

17 

28 

12 

ib 

142 

ib 

156 

392 

182 

413, &c. 

181 

68 

105 

69 

11 

375 

376 

33 

80 



simple method, as applied to thermometers lo 



INDEX. • 439 

Glass jars, to make them resemble China 395 

to manufacture . . . 376 

for looking-glass plates . , 377 

crown or best window . , jh 

clieaper kind of ditto , . ib 

common or green window . , ib 

best phial • , , ib 

common do . . . ib 

green, or bottle . . ib 

with scoria . . . ib 

the most perfect flint , . ib 

cheajier composition of . . ib 

best German crystal , , ib 

to anneal . . i ib 

to polish and grind . . ib 

to make frit for . . ib 
to bring pearl ashes to the highest degree 

of purity . . . 379 
to purify pearl ashes for the manufacture 

of mirrors . . . ib 

and pastes to imitate precious stones ib 

best and hardest for receiving colour ib 

softer . . . ib 

soft, for receiving colours . . ib 

hard, of a full blue colour , ib 

paste, of do . . . 330 

hard, resembling the sapphire , ib 

cheaper do . . , ib 

paste, resembling the sapphire . ib 

hard do, by means of smalt . ib 

hard, resembling eagle marine . ib 

paste for do . . . ib 

hard, of a gold yellow colour , ib 

paste for do . . ib 

hard, resembling the topaz , ib 

paste do • . . ib 

resembling the chrysolite . . ib 

paste do . . . ib 

hard,1'esembling the emerald . ib 

paste do • . . ib 

hard, of a deep purple colour . ib 

paste do . . . ib 

hard, resembling the amethyst . ib 

paste, do • . . ib 

resembling the diamond , ib 

hard, perfectly bkck . . ib 

paste do . . .381 

white opake . . . ib 

paste of an opake whiteness , ib 

of do, formed by arsenic . . ib 
hard, or paste, formed by calx of tin or 

antimony . . . ib 
semi-transparent white, and paste resem- 
bling the opal . . ib 
fine red, resembling the ruby , ib 
paste do . . . ib 
cheaper do . . . ib 
hard, resembling the garnet . ib 
paste do . . , ib 
iiard, resembling the vinegar garnet . ib 
paste do . . . ib 
fictitious or counterfeit lapis lazuli . ib 
resembling red cornelian ,. . 383 
paste do . . . ib 
hard, resembling white cornelian . ib 
paste do . . . J ib 
hard, or paste, resembling the turquoise 

stone . . . ib 

brown Venetian, with gold spangles ib 

Glands, inflamed . . . 212 

Glasses, optical, to polish . 379 

Glaziers, cautions to . . 243 

Glazings for earthen ware, &c. (see Pottery) 372 

Gleet .... 210 

Gloves, to tan skins in white for . 282 

to cleanse, without we' ting . 100 

to dye, different colours . . 93 



440 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Gloves, to wash gentlemen's . 
Glue, portable, to make 

to resist moisture 

parchment . . 

strong compound . 

•isinglass . • 

Laplander's 
Goat's flesh, qualities of . 

skins in oil, to prepare 
Godfrey's cordial for children . 
Goitre 
Gold, ores and earths to assay . 

mixed with pyrites, humid assay of 

solder, to prepare 

-with platinum, useful alloy of 

ring, to prepare 

from 35s. to 40*. per oz. 

Manheim or similor 

chemical test for i. 

'. powders, for gilding, to prepare 

to dissolve in aqua regia 

amalgam of, in the large way 

yellow, to heighten the colour of 

green, do 

red, do 

to separate from gilt copper and silver 

cordial, to make 

liquid, for vellum painting 

or silver, ground for 

lace, to clean 
Goose, choice of • 

Gout, remedies for . . 211, 

rheumatic 

Chelsea pensioner's remedy for 

cordial, to make 

Portland powder for 

lotion . . 

Pradier's cataplasm for . 
Gonorrhoja . • 

Gooseberries, qualities of 

to preserve . . 

Gooseberry cheese, green, to make 
Grain, to preserve from vermin 

to sow, by ribbing 

damaged, to correct 
Grass, cut for hay, to manage . 
Graft, trees, to 

Grafting materials, clay to prepare, whip, 
cleft, crown, saddle, side, shoul 
root . • 2S8, 

coffee tree 

luting for . . 

Grape house, mode of storing a 
Grapes, to mature 

to prevent their dropping off 

to retard their sap 

to protect from wasps 

to preserve . . 

Gravel walks, to make 

treatment of the • . 

remedies for the • 

Gravy cakes . . 176, 

Grease spots, (see Scouring, &c. ) to remove 
Green house, to make a 
Grind-stones, to make 
Grottoes, to embellish 

coral for, artificial 
Gruel, water, to make 
Gum elastic, to dissolve 

benzoin, oil of, to obtain 
Gun barrels, to brown 

powder, to make 

metal . i 



H. 



Hair, honey water for the 
red, to dye black 



391 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

412 

•402 

282 

252 

213 

9 

ib 

33 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

392 

16 

17 

ib 

18 

ib 

ib 

ib 

146 

53 

ib 

388 

426 

240 

401 

240 

ib 

ib 

212 

ib 

210 

404 

isr 

172 
337 
.526 
361 
340 
288 



289 
298 
418 
296 
297 

ib 

ib 
298 
310 
284 
208 
406 
415 
412 
286 
396 
395 

ib 
254 

S3 
149 

31 
392 

12 



188 
92 



Hair, colour of, to change the . . ib 

horse, to (lye . . . 94 

powders . . . 192 

for wigs, to prepare . . 395 

Hams, mutton . . . 397 

to salt . . .185 

pie, raised . . . 168 

qualities of . . . 402 

Hangings, to restore . . ;, 101 

Harrowing, best method of . 315 

Harrows, to construct , • . ib 

Hartshorn jelly, to make . .183 

Hats, to dye . . .91 

to preserve . . . 391 

Hay making, best mode of . . 344 

Yorkshire way of . . ib 

cut grass for . . . ib 

stacks, to save from fire . 409 

Head-ache, to relieve . . 201 

in bed ... 408 

Health, preservation of . . 260 

exercise, riding and walking, exercise 
after meals, kinds thereof, reading, 
wind i'lstrunicnts, friction, getting wet, 
precautions in removing fi-oin a liot to a 
cold situation, to keep the feet dry, to 
prevent cold feet at night 251, 262 

to prevent the eft'ects of drinking cold li- 
quors when heated, to remedy the effects 
of dram drinking, to procure sleep, the 
air baih . . . 408 

to preserve the eye sight, use of specta- 

clcs . . 262, 263 

cosmetics . . . 263 

the teeth, picking the teeth, tooth pow- 
ders, loose teeth, foul teeth, cleansing 
the teeth, to clean and preserve the 
teeth, diseases of the teeth, 263, 264 

warts . ^ . 234 

to ))! event corns . . . ib 

Heartburn, remedies for . 205, 239 

Heat, excessive, or strokes of the sun, to guard 

against . . . 213 

Heating, to preserve animal and vegetable sub' 

stances by, in well closed vessels . 
Hedges, thorn, to plant 

young, to protect 
Hedge-hog, usefulness of the 
Hemp, to cultivate 

to prepare the ground for . . 

quantity of seed, &c. for . . 

method of sowing . . 

, after culture . . . 

process of grassing . . 

to fix a mineral yellow on . 
Herrings, to use economically . , 

to cure 



Herpes 

Hiccup, to remove the 

Hides, or skins, to tan ■ 

Hip-joint disease 

Hops, to cultivate 

the soil,&cc. for . . 

to plant 

to choose 

seasons for planting 

to form a new plantation of 

ground, to take up 

extra works for . 

manure for the culture of . 



394 

349 

ib 

33r 

339 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

il> 

84 

172 

359 

215 

205 

280. 

212 

341 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

342 

ib 

Jb 

ib 



to pick, dry, bag, dress, pole, tie, gather 343 

gentian root, substitute for . 394 

Honey water for the hair . . 153 

to manage . . • 365 

to take, without destroying the bees ib 

to clarify . . .186 

Horehound, candied to make . . l&l 



INDEX. 



Horn, to dye, various colours 
Horses, diseases of, (see Farriery) 

rules tor feeding with straw- 
sore backs of, to cure 

infallible lotion for bruises in 

sick, to make drink 

to bring out of a stable on fire 
Hotbeds . _ . 

house, plants in . 
Horticulture 
Hortus siccus 
Hooping cough, remedies for 

regimen, &C. 
Hunger and tliirst — to restore famished 

cautions respecting 
Hungary waters . , 

Husbandry . . 

implements of ■ 
Hydrophobia . . 

guaco, in . . 

Hydrometer, Fahrenheit's 
Hysteric fits 



94 

264 
346 
415 

ib 
417 
391 

28 
291 
284 
8S7 
249 

ib 
persons 407 

ib 
152 
311 
314 
222 
398 
384 
242 



Ice, to make . . . 360 

from a powder, to procure . , ib 

cream, to make . .183 

house, portable, to make a . 359 

for culiuaiy purposes, to produce . ib 

Impotency . . .211 

Inclosures, to form . . , ' 349 

Indian shields, to prepare varnish for . 35 

Indigo, for dyeing, to prepare . . 91 

Inflammation, inordinate, to diminish . 231 

various remedies for . . ib 

in the bowels, remedy for . . 206 

Inflammatory diseases, treatment of . 197 

Injuries, external, treatment of . 221 

Indigestion and debility, treatment of . 205 

Gentian wine • . . 238 

chalybeate . . , ib 

stomachic . . . ib 

powerful tonic . . . ib 

for debility of the stomach . ib 

stomachic aperient pills . . ib 

tonic draught, in cases of great debility ib 

Ur Bailey's prescription for . ib 

Dr Abernethy's . . , ib 

Dr Babington's . . .397 

to remove, &c. after eating , ib 

to remedy flatulency . . 238 

nightmare, remedies for . . ib 

hiccup . . . 205 

digestive pills . . . 239 

to improve digestion . , ib 

to restore the appetite . , ib 

aloetic and assafcetida pills . ib 

heartburn . . . ib 

Insects, stings and bites . , 222 

Instruments, musical, to stain . . 93 

Ii\terment, premature . . 405 

Inks, &c, . . .193 

common black . . , ib 

shining ... 194 

the best . . . ib 

indelible, without galls . . ib 

indestructible, for resisting the action 

corrosives . . . ib 

powder, the best . . ib 

for immediate use • . ib 
a fine black, for common use and the 

copying press . . 193 

lithographic . . .67 

exchequer, to make . . 194 

red ... ib 

from vermilion . „ jb 

3 F 



441 

195 
ib 



Ink, red, permanent . . 

green, writing, to make . 

yellow . . . ib 

blue . . ih 

copperplate printer's . .id 

printer's . . . i* 

fine black printing . . ib 

best do . , . ib 

good common do . . ib 

printer's red . . . ib 

blue . . . ib 

perpetual, for writing on tombs, &c, il> 

Indian, to make . . 196 

substitute for . . il) 

for printing linen with types . 393 

permanent, for marking linen . 196 

sympathetic . . 196, 405 

nitro-muriates of gold and tin . 196 

gallate of iron . . , ib 

nitro-muriate of cobalt . . ib 

sympathetic, various . . ib 

to prevent from freezing . . ib 

to prevent mould in . . il> 

to take out spots of . . 197 

to make new writing seem old . ib 

to write on greasy paper or parchment ib 

to restore decayed writings . ib 
to lake impressions from recent manuscripts ib 

to produce a fac-simile of writing . ib 

substitute for copying machines . il> 

to copy writings . . ib 

to take out writings . . 101 

Intestines, inflammation of . . 206 

Iron ores, to assay . . .6 

humid assay of . . ♦. ib 

to plate . . .18 

vessels, to tin . . . ib 

ore, to reduce into malleable . 20 

to shingle and manufacture, new way ib 

to weld, approved method . ib 

common hardening of . . ib 

polished, to preserve from rust . 387 

case hardening of . . 20 

to convert into steel by cementation . ib 

cast, way of softening , . . 399 

Isinglass jelly, to make . . 254 

Itch, ointment for . . 216, 234 

Ivory, to gild . . .15 

to polish and soften . . 32 

and bone black, to make . . 36 

to paint on . . .60 

for miniatures, to prepare . . ib 

to cut and paste . . 61 

to sketch portraits on . .60 

to dye various colours . ,92 

mode of silvering . . 93 



Jam, raspberry, to make 

strawberry 
Japan black 

Jasmin, essence de, to inake 
Jaundice, remedies for 
Jaw, locked 

Jessamine water, to prepare 
Jellies, (see Confectionary) 
Jelly, ismglass 

hartshorn, currant, &c. &c, 

calves-foot 

ivory 

strawbeiTy 
Jumbles 

Juniper, compound spirit of 
Jujubes, pate de 
Joints, cartilage in . 

wounds ot" [. 



184 
ib 
39 
188 
205 
214 
151 
183 
254 
183, 184 
413 
249 
184 
413 
153 
184 
212 
223 



442 



UNIVERSAIi RECEIPT BOOK. 



K. 



Kail, sea, to cultivate 
Kid skin, to prepare 

1 Kidneys, au vin 

inflammation of the 

I Knee-joint, ilropsy of 
Knives and foa'ks, to clean 
Krumholta oil, to procure 
Kustitien's metal for tinning 



Life boat, description of the 
305 safe, and readily constructed 

282 general rules for preserving 

165 j" Lia;ht, to produce instantaneous 
208 '""^" " 
212 
38S 
149 
13 



Liace, to wash . • 

veils, white, to clean • 

black, do 

point, to clean and starch . 

gold and embroidery, to clean 
Lamb, qualities of 

choice of 
Lamps, to prevent being pernicious to astb 
tic persons . 

to trim and clean 

to prevent smoking 
Land, arable, management of 

seven rotations of crops 

to apply manures to 

pismires on grass, to prevent increase of 

to destroy slugs on 
Lands, clay, to underdrain 

to drain 

pit draining 

Bailey's directions for draining 

to construct main drains for 

to fill drains for 
Landscapes, rules for painting in water colours 

to i)repare 

to select the colours for 
Lamp black, to make paints from 
Lead ores, to assay 

in the humid way 

Chinese sheet, to prepare . 

red, to make 

sub-acetate of 
Leaden-tree, to prepare the . 
Lacker for brass, to prepare 

piiilosopiiical instruments 

gold coloured, for brass watch cases, &c 

of a less drying quality 
Lackers of various tints, to make 
Lavender, oil of, (foi'eign) to ob 

spirit 

Avater, to prepare 
second order 
for immediate use 
perfumed 
Lawns, to wash and starch 
Leather, to gild 

to render water proof 

chairs, to restore the blackness of 

sheep, to prepare, by dyeing 

morocco, to manufacture real 

to convert old parchment into 

to preserve from mould 

to curry . . 

morocco and sheep, to dye 

in imitation of morocco, to manufacture 
from South American horse hides 

Russia, to manufacture 
Leeches, application of 
Lemonade, portable « 
Lemon cordial, to make 

juice, preservation of 

peel, to candy . 

water, to prepare 
Leprosy, lotion for 

Leprous affections of the skin, to cure 
Letters, to disinfect, of the plague 
Ley, saponaceous, for washing 



97 
'ib 
ib 
ib 

388 
402 
426 

261 

389 

395 

325 

ib 

319 

3.35 

337 

347 

348 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

56 

ib 

ib 

36 

6 

ib 

18 

40 

392 

18 

27 

ib 

ib 

ib 

28 

148 

153 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

97 

15 

30, 31 

32 

281 

ib 

283 

284 

ib 

ib 

282 

ib 

231 

157 

148 

399 

181 

153 

233 

ib 

261 

97 



Ligiituing, to guard against 
Lime, to burn, without kilns . 

juice, to preserve 
Linen, to render water proof . 

cloth for screens, &c. to thicken 

to remove iron moulds from 

mildew on, to take out 

to bleach 



and cotton, to dye, blue, yellow, red, scar- 



let, and black 
washing and cleaning 
Liniment, compound soap 

of ammonia . . 

Lip salve, rose and white, to make 
Liqueurs, to make 

anisette de Bourdeaux . 

crerae de Barbadoes, real 
noyeau de Martinique 
d'orange of superior flavour 
eau de Barbades 

divine 
elephant's milk 
liuile de Venus . 
liquedilla 
raarasquin de groseilles 

(French) a new liqueur 
. ratafia de angelique 
de cafe . 

cassia 

cerises . 

chocolat . 
grenobl^ , 
noiK (brou) 
noyeau 
d'oranges (ecorces) 

(fleurs) 
a la violette 
usquebaugh 
Liquid paste, with drying oil, to make 
Liquors, cold, to prevent bad efifects of 
Liquorice lozenges, to make . 
extract of, to make 
juice of, to prepare 
I'cfined, to prepare 
Lithograpliy 

to print designs with porcelain plates 
to apply it to wood engraving ' 
to take impressions on paper from 
signs made on stone 
Lithographic pencils, to make 
stone, cheap substitute for 
ink, i'henard and Blainville's 
Litter, straw, as applicable to 
Litmus, for dyeing, to prepare 
Liver, inflammation of the 
Looking glasses, to plate 

Jscc. to clean 
Lobsters and crabs, to pot 

to choose 
Looseness, to check . 
Lovage cordial, to make 
Lozenges, liquorice . 
black pectoral . 
Lumbago . 

Lutes, to make 
Luting, for grafting . 



257 

251 

26C 

393 

406 

323 

399 

29,41 

29 

9'J 

100 

95 



84,85 

390 

250 

ib 

190 

144 

ib 

ib 

145 

ib 

144 

ib 

ib 

145 

ib 

ib 

ib 

144 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

145 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

14G 

145 

29 

408 

182 

ib 

ib 

183 

66 

67 

ib 



de- 



ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 

346 
90 
205 
377 
390 
166 
426 
207 
146 
182 
253 
239 
104 
418 



M. 

Maccaroni, to make a dish of 
Macaroons, different kinds 
Magnesia, liquid 
Ma(lder, to cultivate 
use of . 



175 
179, 413 
157 
343 
344 



INDEX. 



443 



Mahogany, to take stains out of ] 
Malt, to make 

to grind 

to determine qualities of 

to brew four bushels of 

liquor, thick, sour, to recover 

to vamp 

foxing in, to prevent and cure 

to protect from electricity 

to bottle 
Manganese ore, to assay . 

humid assay of . 

Manlieim gold, to prepare . 
Manures 

to prepare 

to manage dung upon light lands 
heavy lands 

to spread dung . 

application of, to turnips . 
to potatoes . 

to clayey soils 

quantity of dung for fallows 

ti.Tie of spreading dung 

intermediate dunging 

to ncrcase the quantity by soiling 

couposts for, to make . 

Lord Meadowbank's .' 

to convert moss into 

use d" lime as 

applitation of marl . 

shelly land 

clayey and stone marls 
alga marina or 'sea weed 

burning the surfoce for 
Mr Curwen's mode 

to bui-n nioss with the ashes 

use of peat and peat ashes 
coal ashes 

to decompose greea vegetables for 

use of bone 
moss 

various substances used as 

use of plaster of Paris 

to apply blubber as . 

application cf, to land . 
Manuscripts, renovation of 
Maps, wash, colours for 
Maple, sugar, juice of, to extract,without 

juring the 'ree 
Marble, to, the edges of paper 

covers of bocks 

to clean 

to colour 

to stain, red, or yellow 

to give, a blue colour 

to prepare brimstone in imitation of 
Vlatting, gold 

Marine spencer, description of 
Marmalade, (see Confectionary) 
Vlastich, Greek, or maltha 
Meadows, to water 
Measles • 

Measure of fluids 
Measuring glasses, for do 
Vleats, &c. to boil 

to bake 

to roftj-t 

to boil . 

to fry 

to salt 

to pickle 

to preserve without salt 

to choose 
Medicines, useful, domestic 

almond milk, to prepare 

ammonia', pure water of 
acetated . 



101 

106 

lor 

ib 

111 

115 

ib 

116 

117 

120 

7 

ib 

13 

317 

ib 

ib 

ib 

318 

ib 

ib 

319 

ib 

ib 

ib 

320 

ib 

ib 

321 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

322 

ib 

ib 

ib 

323 

ib 

ib 

324 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

325 

394 

53 

417 

94 

ib 

100 

70 

ib 

ib 

ib 

16 

257 

183 

103 

348 

215 

264 

ib 

163 

ib 

164 

ib 

ib 

398 

399 

417 

424 

250 

160 

253 

ib 



Medicines, useful, domestic ' 
balsam of Riga . "'. 

Godbold's vegetable . 

of honey . , 

beef tea, to make 
camphor mixture, to prepare 
chalk do 
cerate. Turner's 

of Spanish flies 
cordial, Godfrey's 
drop, the black . 
draught, saline 

extemporaneous effervescing 
eau-de-luce , 

elixir. Daffy's . ^ 

gruel, water, to prepare 
isinglass jelly, &c. . 

liuiment of ammonia *■» 

compound soap f , 

lozenges, black pectoral j . 
white pectoral , 

ointment, simple , 

of hog's lard 

basilicon and yellowresinous 
mercurial 
opodeldoc, cajeput . 

panada, to make . 

pills, aloetic and myrrh 

compound , 

assafoetida . 

Plummer's , 

plaster, adhesive 

court , , 

labdanum, compound . 
pitch, Burgundy 
powders, aloetic, with iron 
Dover's sudorific • 

Seidlitz . . 

salve, lip, to make 
sarsaparilla, dedoction of . 

compound 
soup, for convalescents, transparent 
squills, oxymel of 
syrup of ginger 

poppies . 

squills 
violets 
tar water . . , 

tincture of benzoin, compound 
catechu . , 

ginger 
guaiacum . , 

ammoniated 
Peruvian bark . 

Huxhara's , 

compound . . 

senna . . 

balsam of Tolu 
Medicines, purgative, (see Purgative) 

for worms, (see Worms) . 
Medlars, to preserve 
Melons, irregular growth, to prevent 

to preserve 
Metises, the . , 

Mercurial ores, to assay . 

sulphuretted . . 

Mercurial disease . . 

Mercury, to protect gilders from the injurious 

effects of . . 

Metallurgy . . 

ores, assaying of 
roasting 
fluxes for 
Cornish, reducing flux for 

refining , 

humid assaj' of 
casts from copper engravings 



444 

Metallurgy 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



injection 




11 


for cushions of electrical raachin 


ery ib 


for varnisiiins; figures 


ib 


watering or for bianc moire 


18 


metallographical applicalioa of fus 


ible 


alloys 


11 


Metals, compound or alloys . 


9 


metal, liatli, to prepare . 


11 


brass . • 


ib 


solder for iron 


13 


bell, to prepare , 


12 


bronze • . , 


ib 


co])per, blanched . 


ib 


yellow -dipping 


ib 


fusible alloys 


10 


gilding 


12 


for common jewellery 


ib 


gun, to prepare 


ib 


Kustitien's, for tinning 


13 


liquid foils for glass globes 


11 


pewter, common 


10 


best 




ib 


hard . , 




ib 


plated, to assay 




18 


platina, mock . 




12 


queen's . , 




9 


silver, imitation of 




12 


solder for jeweller 


s 


13 


plating 




ib 


solder, common 




10 


hard 




ib 


soft 




ib 


for steel joints 




13 


specula of telescopes 




12 


• tombac 




10 


red 




ib 


white 




ib 


tutania, or Britannia 




12 


German 




ib 


Spanish 




ib 


Engeslroom 




13 


tutenag 




ib 


type 




ib 


wliite 




10 


gold, (ring) . 




13 


from 35s. to 40s. p 


er oz. 


ib 


to clean all sorts of 




100 


Mezzotint, to engrave in 




79 


Mildew in wheat 




328 


to remove 




ib 


to prevent 




ib 


Milk, qualities of 




402 


and cream, substitutes for 


SOO 


and butter, to free from the turnip flav 


our ib 


to preserve 


383 


Miniature painting 


60 


different articles used in 


ib 


choice of brushes 


ib 


Miniatures, ivory for, to prepare 


ib 


manner of sketching 


ib 


colours to be employed in 


ib 


in sketching a female head 


ib 


use and advantage of body colours 


1 


to cut and paste the ivory for 


ib 


to sketch portraits 


ib 


use of magnifying glass . . 


62 


to execute light hair for 


ib 


to represent velvets and satins 


ib 


white feathers 


ib 


to gild in body colours . , 


63 


linen, lace and gauze 


ib 


pearls on the flesh 


ib 


colours used in sketching from nature 


ib 


to adjust the drapery 


64 


to execute the back ground 


ib 


primitive colours and combii 


lations . 


ib 



Miniatures 

discovery of new substances 

to liiy body colours on the palette 
Mint, oil of, to procure 
Miscellaneous receipts, medicinal 
Morocco, real, to manufactui-e 

red, to prepare . 

imitation of . 

to dye 
Mosaic gold 

to manufacture . 
Moths, to drive away 
Mortars, to prepare , 

impenetrable . 
Mortification 
Mosquetoes, bites of 
Moss, as manure . 
Mucilaginous oils . 
Muffins, to make 
Mum, to make . 

Mushi-ooms, to produce 

to pickle 
Musical instruments, to stain 
IMussels, qualities of 
Mustard, to cultivate 
Mutton, qualities of 
■ shoulder of . 

choice of 

to carve 
Myrtle water, to distil 



Napoleon's pectoral pills 
Nectar to make 

Editor's 

Needham's portable machine, to brew by 
Neroli, essence of, to procure 
Nettle-rash 
Nickel ore, to assay 

in the humid way 
Nightmare, remedies for 

cautions respecting 
Nitre, strong spirit of 

colourless . 

NoyeaUj to make 
Nutmegs, oil of, to procure 



65 
14S 
231 
281 
280 
2Si 
284 
9 

14 
S37 
103 

ib 
230 
222 
324 
160 
178 
1601 
S02 
185 

93- 
403 
359 
402 
165 
426* 
419 
151^ 



235 
146 
122 
113 

148 < 
217 

I' 

233 
238, 400 
156 
ib 
147 < 
US 



o. 

Oaks, to raise, the best method 
to dye, a mahogany colour 
ebony black 
Oats, qualities of 
varieties of 

to prepare the ground for 
quantity of seed for 
to harvest 
for horses, to make them prove doubly 

nutritious 
bruised 
Odours, unpleasant, to remove 
Oil and water colours, (see Colours) 
Oils, essential, kc. 

oil of anise-seed, to obtain 
caraway 
birch . 

cajeput . 
camomile 
cassia . 

cinnamon 
cloves 

gum benzoin 
hartshorn rectified 
Krumholz 
lavender, foreign 
mint . 

uutraegs 



350 , 

93^ 

ib 
403 i 
331 

ib 

ibJ 

ib 

356 
41S 
3i7^ 

35 , 
l4Si 

il> 

ib 
149* 
148 

ibi 

ib 

ib* 
149 

ib i 

ib 
143 

ih 

itt 



INDEX. 



ils, essential, &c 
I oil of peppermint 
; penny-royal 

pimento 
rliodium 
rosemary 
I rue 

; sassafras . 

, tar • 

thyme • 
j turpentine 

rectified 
; wine . 

I wormwood 

I and mucilages 
! oil gilding on wood 
(f j. of linseed, to mix the mineral sub- 
I ; stances in 

! po?pyi to give it a drying quality 

) sic«itive 

; fat . , 

furiiture, to make 
resnons, diying 
for watcli-work, &c. to prepare 32, 
ils, mucihginous, &c. 
I oil of sweet almonds, to make 

jeech-nut 
i hazel-nut 

( mace . . 

by expression . 
from grape stones, to extract 
of olives, salad, or sweet 
castor . 

do mixture 
cruton . 

rape • 

do to purify . 
••J vegetaule, to purify 
pumpkin, to make 
is, animd, and fats, &c. 

hog's iard . 

. oil, trotter or neat's foot 
( to purify 

( . from yolks of eggs 
I sperTiaceti, to refine 

'. Greeidand whale and seal, to refine 

} to extract from stone or marble 

out cf boards 
fisli, to purify, and npply the refuse 
I to iseful pui-poses 

J for naking hard soap, to prepare 

jitment, simple, to prepare 
i of hog's lird 

yellow, resinous 
I mercurial • 

^0, to make m • 

palette, military, to make a 

oniou • 

; French . 

i souiHe • 

'\ions, to cultivate . 

( Portuguese vay of 

to obtain a giod crop of 

qualities of . 

to pickle . 

ii molu . 

lange cordial, to make 



148 

ib 

ib 

ib 

149 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

142 

149 

160 

15 



marmalade 

flower water . 
drops . 
paste for lands 

to candy . 

to preserve . 

(shards, to manage 
l^eat paste, to make 
calic acid, to detect 
(fxatl of squills I 



22 

40 

22 

31 

23 

39r 

160 

ib 

161 

160 

ib 

ib 

161 

160 

ib 

206 

161 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

162 

ib 

391 

ib 

162 

16,5 

251 

ib 

ib 

ib 

166 

169 

ib 

ib 

1S4 

303 

304 

: ib 

404 

184 

9 

147 

183 

151 

182 

189 

181 

187 

293 

184 

40S 

253 



Oyster powder, to make 
Oysters, qualities of 
to stew .' 

roasted, fine • 



445 

137 

403 
167 
- ib 



Painter's cream, to make 
Paint, to, sail-cloth water-proof 
on silks, satins, &cc. . 

in enamel . . 

in varnish, on wood . 

white distemper 
ligbt grey and do 
fi-esco • . 

fire places and hearths 
to slain glass and porcelain 
improved method 
colours, proper to be used for do 
manner of using them 
colour for grounds on glass 
lake, to prepare for do . 
blue, purple, green 
yellow and white 
engraving on glass, to transfer 
metallic calces and precipitates of gold 

to prepare 
oxide of cobalt . 
zaftVe 

purple precipitate of Cassius 
coloured drawings on glass 
glass black . . 

blue, carnation 
green, gold colour . 
black, to make 
from lamp blacky to make . 
pit coal . 
wine lees • . 

white 

economical white, house . 
pearl gvey . . 

liaxen grey . . 

Prussian blue • • 

beautiful green . . 

Painting, house • . 

drier for . . 

encaustic, compound for receiving the 
lours 

on wax, Grecian method 
vellum, liquid gold for . 

silver for 
in crayons . . 

implements . 

drawing the outl>nes 

from life . . 

posture and light 

Jeatures of the face 

tlie neck . 

draperies, &c. 

to prepare coloured crayons, &c. 

arrangement of do 
ivory and miniature, (see Miniature) 
velvet 

materials I'equired 

subjects for • . 

appropriate colours , 

compound 

directions for . 

Palsy, treatment of 
Panada . . 

Paper, to gild the edges cf . 

black do do 
to dye various colours 
to render fire proof 
to remove spots of grease from 
hangings, to clean 

to colour . 

to resist moisture . 



49 
ib 
53 
ib 
6G 
ib 
ib 
ib 
57 
ib 
ib 
58 
ib 
59 
60 
65 
ib 
ib 
ib 
66 
ib 
213 
254 
15 
94 
93 
408 
412 
lOL 
7» 
409 



446 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. ' 



Paper, for draughtsmen , 


418 


Papier mache, to make 


32 


Parchment, old, to convert into leather 


283 


to make 


ib 


to dye, various colours 


93 


Parsley, qualities of 


404 


Parsnips, do 


ib 


mode of cultivating in Guernsey 


338 


Parting, process of . 


19 


by aqua-fortis 


ib 


by cementation . . 


ib 


dry . . , 


520 


Partridge, aux choux 


167 


Paste, liquid, to make 


29 


Chinese, to make . 


385 


flour 


ib 


Ward's, for the piles . 


234 


furniture 


31 


puff 


172 


short . . 


ib 


for tarts, &c. . , 


ib 


Pastry, 8tc. 


177 


qualities of . , 


403 


cakes, good, rich, plum . 


177 


good plain . . 


ib 


iceing for , . 


ib 


rich seed . , 


ib 


plain, pound , 


ib 


ratafia . . 


ib 


wiggs 


ib 


Bath 


ib 


■wedding . , 


414 


election . , 


ib 


blajk 


ib 


to keep for a year 


. 415 


spongg 


ib 


sugar 


ib 


cup , , 


ib 


cider . . 


ib 


federal . . 


ib 


Albany . . 


ib 


Shrewsbury 


177, 413 


Portugal 


177 


ginger, without butter 


177, 413 


Savoy 


177 


pound-cake gingerbread 


413 


gingei-bread 


ib 


short 


ib 


saffron . , 


178 


queen . . 


ib 


rice 


ib 


lemon . 


178, 415 


B»nbury . , 


177 


almond . 


177, 413 


cream . , 


178 


cheese, fine 


ISO 


almond . 


ib 


bread . 


ib 


rice 


Jb 


apple 


ib 


gingerbread, plain 


178 


crumpets 


ib 


mufiins . . . 


ib 


buns, common 


179 


cross . , 


ib 


rusks . . , 


ib 


' custards, orange . 


ib 


buked . . , 


ib 


rico , , , 


ib 


almond 


ib 


lemon , 


ib 


tarts, almond . , . 


ib 


orange . , , 


ib 


orange puffs . , 


b 


English macaroons . 


ib 


biscuit, fancy . 


ib 


sponge , , 


180 



Pastry, &cc. 

biano tnange , . 

clear . . 

Pastes to imitate precious stones 

Paste for receiving colours . 

of a blue colour . 

resembling the sapphire . 

eagle marine . 

for a gold or yellow colour 

resembling the topaz . 

chrysolite . 

emerald , 

for a deep purple colour . 

resembling the amethyst . 

diamond 
for a perfect black . 

of an opake wbiteness 
hard, formed by calx of tin or antimony 
resembling the opal 
ruby 

ruby, a cheaper 
garnet 

vinegar gurnet 
fictitious iapis lazuli 
red cornelian 
■white cornelian 
turquoise . 
Peach, qualities of . . 

trees, to preserve . 

Pears, to preserve . , . 

to keep, for market . 

qualities of . 

Pearl ashes, to make a lixivium' of 
powder for the face . 

bis.muth do . . 

water for the face 
Peas, to raise in autumn . 

to sow, in circles 
early sown, to prevent mice from destroy- 
ing 
qualities of . 

to cultivate 
Peat and peat ashes, use of, as manure 
Peats, to char at the moss 

for family use 
Peccalili, to make, Indian method 
Pelisses, to scour 
Pencil drawings, to preserve 
Pencils, artificial black lead, to make 
English drawing 
lithographic 
Pennj'royal, oil of, to obtain . 

water, simple, to make 
Peppermint, cot-dial, to make . 
drops, do . . 

spirit, do 

oil of, to procure ^ . 

■water, to prepare . 

Pepper, Jamaica, water . 

Perry, to manage . . 

to make 
Perspective, scale- for dividing the vanishing 

lines . . 

Perfumery and cosmetics 

eau de cologne, to make . 
melisse de carmes . 
bouquet . , 

essence de jasmine 
honey water, to make 
ottar of roses . . 

milk of do, English 
French 
cream of roses, to make 
pomatum, cold, for the complexion 
pommade divine, to make . 
pearl water, for the face . 
almond bloom, to prepare . 



55 
187 
ib 
ib 
188 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
18»; 



INDEX. 



Perfumery and cosmetics 
almond paste 
pomatum, orange 
soft 

common . 
hard . • 

I'osemary 
peai'l powder for the face 
bismulh do 

caution in using 
orange flower paste for the hands 
coral tooth powders 
vegetable tooth brushes 
an astringent for the teeth 
excellent opiate for do 
rose lip salve . 
■white do 

to sweeten the breath 
perfumed bags for drawers 
j)erfurae for clothes 
gloves 
tincture of musk 
to prevent pestilential airs, &c. 
for sick rooms 
explosive pastils 
aromatic do 
hair powder 
ambergris 
TDUsk and civet 
orris , 

violet 

rose . 

bergamotte . 
ambergris 
musk and civet do 
violet 
rose 

rouge, Spanish ladles' 
Spanish vermilion 
economical rouge 
Turkish bloom 
■wash for sun-bm-nt faces, &c, 
Alacouba snuft' 
cephalic do 

Spanish do, imitation of 
London imitation of Spanish, &c. 
soap, transparent 

Windsor . 

almond 
balls, marbled 

Naples, imitation of 
iPewter, common, to prepare . 
best 
hard 
Pheasants, to breed 
iPhial, Bologna, to make 
Philips's rules for health 
Philosophical instruments, lacker for 
.Phosphorus, to preserve 
Pictures, to clean 
to preserve 

ancient, to restore the •white of 
to enlarge, or diminish 
Pickling 

saur kraut, to make 
peccalili . • 

Pickle, to, onions . . 

samphire • • 

mushrooms • • 

cucumbers . • 

■walnuts, white . . 

anchovies, artificial . 

salmon . 

Pickles, to detect copper in 
Pie, perigord, to make 

oyster . . 

pigeon . • 





Pie.giblet 


189 


rump steak 


ib 


chicken and rabbit 


ib 


raised, French, ham and pork, &c. 167— 


ib 


Pigeons, en compote . . 


. • ib 


Pilchards, to cure . . . 


ib 


Piles, treatment of . . . 


ib 


ointments for . • . 


ib 


Ward's paste for • 


ib 


Pills, chalybeate . . . 


ib 


compound aloetic . . 


ib 


aloetic and myrrh . 


190 


assafcelida . . . 


ib 


Plummer's . * . 


ib 


compound, colocynth . . 


ib 


aloetic . . , 


ib 


compound rhubarb . 


ib 


croton . , . , 


ib 


expectorant . . . 


ib 


Napoleon's pectoral . . 


ib 


anti-hysteric . . . 


ib 


Pimento, oil of, to procure . . 


ib 


Pinery, to manage a , . 


191 


Pines, mode of cultivating . 


. ib 


the soil . . 


ib 


heat 


ib 


to propagate 


ib 


to separate crowns and suckers 


ib 


treatiment of tlie plants . . 


ib 


ripe, to cut 


ib 


to destroy insects on 


ib 


Pipes, tobacco, to make 


ib 


Piping, a mode of cultivating plants by cuttings 


ib 


T'ippins, new, to render productive 


ib 


Pinchbeck, to prepare 


192 


Pismires, in grass, to prevent . 


ib 


Plague, to disinfect substances of the 


ib 


letters 


ib 


Plant, to, thorn hedges 


ib 


Plants, insects on, to destroy . 


ib 


to preserve from slugs . . 


ib 


Plantation, to form a 


ib 


Plaster figures, to bronze . . 


ib 


of Spanish flies . . 


ib 


compound Burgundy pitch 


c. ib 


labdanum . . 


193 


adhesive 


ib 


court 


b 


of Paris, as manure 


ib 


Plate, to, looking glasses . . 


ib 


iron . » . 


10 


and plated articles . . 


ib 


Plated copper, from, to obtain silver 


ib 


metals, to assay . . 


357 


Platina, mock, to prepare 


375 


Plating, silver solder for 


260 


Pleurisy . . 


27 


Plumbers, painters, and glaziers, cautions to 


392 


Plums, qualities of 


48 


Plant, to, shrubs 


392 


Plants, to accelerate, in hot houses 


101 


to choose 


54 


to preserve from frost 


1S4 


to destroy insects on 


ib 


Plough, Small's improved, description of 


185 


Veilch's do . 


184 


for cleaning beans and turnips 


185 


Poisons, remedies for 


ib 


acids . . • 


ib 


alkalies . . . 


ib 


mercury . . • 


ib 


arsenic . . • 


ib 


copper . • • 


392 


antimony , • . 


I'l 


salts of tin . . _ . 


415 


salts of bismuth, gold, and zino ' . 


1G8 


lunar caustic . . • 



447 

ir>3 
ib 

ib 

-169 
168 
359 
219 
ib 
234 
244 
235 
250 

ib 
ib 

235 

ib 

236 

397 

236 

ib 

243 

148 

294 

29^ 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

295 

370 

290 

298 

U 

335 

261 

ib 

349 

306 

412 

349 

30 

251 

ib 

ih 

252 

ib 

324 

11 

• 18 

389 

17 

18 

13 

204 

242 

404 

290 

291 

293 

294 

306 

314 

ib 

315 

228 

ib 

229 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 



448 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Poisons, remedies for 

saU-petre . . . 229 

sal ammoniac . ■ , , ib 

liver of sulphur . . ib 

phosphorus . . . ib 

Spanish flies . , , ib 

powdered glass . . , il) 

lead . t . ib 

laudanum or opium . , ib 

mushrooms • , , 230 

fish, poisonous . . . ib 

bites of serpents, &c. . .22 

in sheep, to cure . .418 

Polish, to, varnish . . .35 

durable . . .412 

Frencli . , .20 

varnished furniture . ; 31 

■wood . . . ib 

brass ornaments inlaid in wood . ib 

Polygraph, to make . . . 304 
Pomatum, cold cream, for the complexion 1S5 

common , . . .ISO 

hard . . . ib 

rosemary . • . ib 

orange . . , ib 

soft . . . ib 

Pommade divine . . .188 

Porcelain china, to manufacture . SG9 

to gild , . .14 

glass, &c. to paint and stain . fiS 

Pork, qualities of . . , 402 

loin of, Portuguese mode of dressing lOG 

pies . . . IfiS 

to salt . . .186 

choice of . . . 426 

to carve . . , 420 

Porter, to brevr, London system , 108 

three barrels of . . , 109 

on Mr Morrice's plan . . ib 

from sugar and malt . , HI 

with table beer after . .114 

to make a butt of stout . .109 

to bottle . . .120 

to ripen, if flat, when bottled . ib 

Portland powders, the, for the gout 240 

Portugal water, to prepare . . 151 

Posset, sack, and ale, to make . .172 
Potatoes, new, to produce throughout winter 302 

fourteen ways to dress . . 410 

to apply dung to . . 333 

qualities of . . , 403 

for sea provisions, to keep . 1"2 

to ])reserve from frost . . 334 

to remove frost from . . ib 

to steam . , . 172 

bread from, to make .. . ib 

frosted, to I'.se . . 172, 335 

to make starch of . . ib 

to cultivate . . , 333 

to pre])are the ground for . ib 

quantity cf seed for . . ib 

to raise, advantageous methoJ . ib 
mode of taking up and storing the crop ib 

Irisii mctliod of cultivating . ib 
early, to produce, in great quantity . 334 
to grow constantly on the same piece of 

ground . . ib 
to boil, mealy . . , 394 
to preserve . . 334, 394 
Potash, to extract from potatoe tops . 143 
Potass water, to prepare . .157 
Polygraph, an instrument for writing two let- 
ters at once . . . 394 
Polypus . . .202 
Pottery . . .369 
English stone ware, to manufacture . 'b 
yellow, or queen's ware . , ib 



Pottery 

common ware . . 

English porcelain . 

black glazing, to prepare . ' 
porcelain, or china, to make 
delft ware 

Saxon or Dresden china 
Englisii ciiina, composition of 
china ware, to bake 
tobacco pipes, to make 
crucibles, to make 
glaze for . . 

white 

china, for printing blue frit 
cream coloured, to make 
j'ellow, to form 
wliite, to prepare 
mixture for 

for printing blue 
shining black 
purple under 
brown under 
china, to prepare 

for flotts 
green edge 

common, for earthen ware 
to, without lead 
transparent, for do 
musticot, ground for white 
white, for copper vessels 
very line 
yellow 

lemon coloured . 

light yellow 
gold coloured 
green, for white ground 

fine 
blue . . 

violet blue . 
red, fine . . 

china, Chinese mode 
English, for china . 

modification of do 
white, for, to make 
olive, sponge, dip 
white enamel 
fluxes, for blue printing 
black do 
red, to prepare 
black, for printing 
copper black 
red for printing 
umber black 
black 
oil for black printing 
cream colour body, to form 
common body . 

blue printing do 
chalk do . . 

cane colour . . 

china colour . . 

jasper do . . 

drab do . . 

pearl do . ' . 

stone do 
Egyptian black do 
enamel for earthen ware 
ware, varnish for, free from lead 
varnish, for earthen ware 
hard ware, to apply colours on, which pro- 
duce herborizations 
glass, in imitation of eng;raving, to orna- 
ment 
prince Hupert's drops 
glass, to break in any required way 
Poultry, to fatten 
Poultices, various . . 



Powders 






Seidlitz, to make . 


254 


Portland . . 


240 


Dover's . . 


250 


aloetic, with iron 


ib 


for gilding 


IG 


Pradier's cataplasm for gout 


240 


Pregnancy, diseases attendant on 


244 


Preserving 


18G 


preserve, to, fish, by sugar 


ib 


fruits 


ib 


damsons, by bottling . 


ib 


barberries 


ih 


grapes 


ib 


cherries, by dr3'ing 


ib 


candied orange flowers 


ib 


seeds in honey, for vegetation 


187 


fruits in brandy 


ib 


Seville oranges, whole 


ib 


cucumbers and melons 


ib 


sti-awberries, whole 


ib 


apricots 


ib 


gooseberries 


ib 


candied angelica 


ib 


eringo 


ib 


substances, by heating, &c. 


394 


Prince's metal, to prepare 


12 


Printing from stone 


67 


Print, to copy a 


55 


Prints, to bleach 




97 


Printer's types, alloy ft 


)r 


10 


Puerperal fever 




245 


Punch 




122 


Purgative medicines 




235 


powder 




236 


Putrid fever 




200 


Pudding, Dr Kitchener 


's 


169 


Nottingham 




ib 


Yorkshire 




170 


Dutch 




ib 


Windsor 




ib 


Cheshire 


, 


ib 


plain 




ib 


Patna rice 




ib 


potatoe, baked 




170, 414 


maiTow 




170 


Oldbury 




ib 


quince , 




ib 


tansy , 




ib 


lemon . 




ib 


Mrs Goodfellow's 




179 


transparent 




ib 


orange . 


'. ] 


71, 414 


cocoa-nut . 


] 


71, 414 


Boston apple . 


] 


71, 413 


baked , 




414 


"spring fruit , 




171 


olum . 




ib 


batter . 




ib 


Newmarket • 




ib 


cabinet . 




ib 


vermicelli . 




ib 


bread . 




ib 


suet • 




ib 


custard . 




ib 


hominy , 




414 


rice 




ib 


ground rice, or saj 


;o . 


ib 


sweet potatoe 




ib 


citron . 




ib 


'cream , 




ib 


Indian < 




ib 


baked i 




ib 


pumpkin • 




415 


Puffs 




179 


orange < 




ib 


paste . , 




414 


S G 







INDEX. 449 

Pulse, of the . . , 198 

PjToligneous acid, to prepare . . . 155 

Q. 

Quass, to make . . . 155 

Quicksilver, to freeze . . 588 
Queen's metal . , ,9 

ware, to make . . 869 

Quills, to prepare . . . 418 

Quince, marmalade, to make . ,183 

Quinces, to preserve . . , 309 

R. 

Rabbit, pie ... 163 
Welsh . . .173 
Radishes, to cultivate, to have them at all sea- 
sons . . . 305 
qualities of . . . 402 
Ragout of asparagus, to make . .176 
mushrooms, to make . , ib 
artichokes, do . . . ib 
calves' sweet-bread, do . . ib 
with roots, do . . , 177 
Raspberry paste, to make • . . 184 
jam, do . . . ib 
cream, do . , . ib 
Razors, paste for sharpening . . 395 
to hone and strop . . 415 
Realgar, for dyeing, to prepare . 84 
Rheumatic affections, remedy for . 239 
pains in the face, do . . 240 
gout, do . . . 401 
Rheumatism, remedies for . . 212 
chronic . . , ib 
inflammatory . . . ^ ■ ib 
pills for ... 239 j 
liniment for . . . 211 
Chelsea pensioners, remedy for . 240 
Rhodium, oil of, to procure . . 148 
Rhubarb, common garden, to cultivate . 303 
to force . . . ib 
to dry . . , ib 
to cure . . . ib 
Rice, qualities of . . . 403 
Rickets in children, remedy for, regimen, &c. 24S 
jelly from the raspings of ivory, for 249 
Riga balsam, the true . . 148 
Ringworm . . 217, 249 
Roads, M'Adams's system of making . 383 
Rollers, for smoothing the surface of land 315 
Rolls, French . . » 413 
Rooms, to ventilate . . . 387 
Roots, to preserve and pack . . 294 
to dry . . . 307 
to preserve . . . 308 
Roscoe's method of improving moss land 322 
Rose-water, to prepare . . 151 
Roses, butter ot, to prepare . . 148 
ottar of . . .188 
English milk of . , . ib 
French milk of . . . ib 
cream of . . . ib 
to obtain twice in the year . . 401 
Rosemary, oil of . • • 149 
water . . .150 
i Rot, dry, in timber, to cure . . 337 
Rue, oil of, to procure . . 149 
Rubber, to make . . .26 
Rugs, hearth, to scour . .99 
Rum, Jamaica, to make . . 1*2 
to imitate . . . ib 
from molasses, to obtaia • . ib 
Ruptures . , • ^iT 
reducible , . . ro 
irreducible ... 218 
strangulated . • . ib 
Rural economy . . . 356 

2 JV2 



450 

Rupert's, prince, drops, to make 

Rush-lights, to make 

Rusks, to make 

Russia leather, to manufacture . 

Rye, to cultivate 

S. 
Saffron, bastard, for dyeings, to prepare 
Sail-cloth, to paint, water proof 
Salep, and portable soup, properties of 
Saline draught, to prepare 
Salmon, to pickle 
Salads, qualities of • 

chicken 
Salt, spirit of, or marine acid 
dephlogisticated 
to, hams . 

made by evaporation on faggots 
beef and pork, dry 
Salutary cautions (see Cautions) 
Samphire, to pickle 
Sand pot, portable, to make a 
Sanfoin, to cultivate 
Sarsenets, to clean 
Sarsaparilla, decoction of 

compound . 

Sassafras, oil of, to procure 

cocoa, to prepare 
Satins, to paint on . 
to gild . 

white . 

Sauce, common, to make 
sweet . 

miser's • 

pontiff's • 

housewife's • 

parson's • 

nun's • 

admiral's • 

piquante • 

Italienne . 

nonpareil . 

Nivernoise ] . 
general's • 

sailor's • 

queen's • 

carach • 

fish • 

cream, for a hare 
for veal . 

bechamel . 

Kitchener's . 

Saur kraut, to make . 
Sausages, Bologna • 
Oxford 
Epping 
Savaloys, to make . 
Scald head, ointment for 

treatment of • 

Scalds, to heal • 

liniments for • 

extensive ' 4 

and burns, treatment of 

Scalp, wounds of • 

Scarlet fever, treatment of 

malignant, do • 
Sciatica . 

Scions, to choose 
Scirrhus • 

Scorbutic eruptions . 
Scouring, (see Bleaching) 

balls, to make 

Scrofula . 

Scurvy . 

cure for • 

grass, spirit of, to make 

Sea kail, to cultivate 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



375 


Sea weed, as manure . , 


329 


396 


application of, as . . 


ib 


179 


water, to render fit to wash 


256 


282 


to obtain, fresh, from 


ib 


331 


Seamen, cautions to . . 


254 




health of, to preserve 


255 




Seidlitz powders, to prepare 


064. 


91 


Seltzer water 


157 


. 29,41 


Seeds, to sow, with advantage . 


290 


402 


flower, to preserve 


307 


199 


to improve all sorts of 


ib 


185 


to preserve for a long time 


ib 


403 


exotic 


ib 


416 


to pack for transportation . 


405 


156 


Serpents, bites of 


222 


ib 


Shad, choice of . . , 


425 


186 


Shawls, silk, to dye crimson . , 


88 


393 


Sheep, foot-rot in, to cure 


275 


186 


to prevent 


ib 


254 


to prevent catching cold after shearing 


; ib 


185 


scab in, to cure 


275 


138 


to 'prevent 


ib 


337 


maggots in, to destroy 


ib 


97 


water in the heads of, to cure 


ib 


254 


to prevent 


277 


ib 


rules for feeding with straw 


346 


149 


Sheep's leather, elegant, to prepare 


281 


157 


to dye 


284 


66 


dung, utility of, for dyeing 


91 


15 


Sheep, poisoned, to cure 


418 


ib 


Sheep skins, to convert into leather 


281 


175 


to prepare in oil, mock chamois 


283 


ib 


Shepherds, practice of Spanish 


278 


ib 


Ships, health on board of, to preserve 


256 


ib 


provisions 


ib 


ib 


spirits, beer, &c. 1 


ib 


ib 


fresh animal food 


ib 


ib 


biscuit, hour, &c. 


ib 


ib 


water 


ib 


ib 


to purify with charcoal 


254 


ib 


cleanliness in . 


255 


ib 


to prevent damp and cold . 


ib 


ib 


exercise and amusements . 


ib 


176 


diseases 


ib 


ib 


effects of climate, &c. 


ib 


. ib 


cautions, when on shore 


ib 


ib 


in tropical climates . 


ib 


ib 


intoxication . , 


ib 


ib 


noxious vapours 


255 


175 


to obtain fresh water from sea 


ib 


ib 


to wash with sea water 


ib 


ib 


hints, in case of a leak 


. , 258 


184 


temporary nautical pumps 


. * ib 


166 


to render sinking, impossible 


259 


ib 


air-pipes for ventilating , 


241 


ib 


Shipwreck, preservation from 


256 


ib 


when a man falls overboard 


ib 


233 


upsetting of a boat 


257 


217 


cork waistcoats 


ib 


230 


further means of preventing 


ib 


ib 


assistance to a person in danger of dro 


wn- 


232 


ing 


ib 


230 


cork matrasses . 


ib 


223 


the marine spencer 


ib 


215 


bamboo habit 


Jb 


ib 


Daniel's life preserver 


ib 


239 


to extricate persons from broken ice 


ib 


289 


the life boat 


ib 


213 


safe and readily constructed life boat 


5 258 


217 


further methods of preservation in cas 


esof ib 


94 


Shoes, to render water proof . 


30, 405 


100 


Shoots, to preserve, from slugs and ear-w 


igs 305 


212 


Shrubs, brandy, to make 


, 145 


217 


rum and currant 


ib 


417 


to plant them to advantage 


292 


i 153 


to remove superfluous suckers from 


298 


: 305 


to protect from hares . 


29!> 



INDEX. 



461 



Shrubs, to transplant in full growth . 398 

Sick, on visiting the, cautions to be observed 241 

Sight, weak, remedy for . . 235 

dimness of . . . 201 

Silk, to gild . . .15 

varnished, to prepare . . 30, 34 

varnish for, to make . . ib 

to paint on . . .66 

flowered, to clean . . 97 

coloured . . , .98 

black . . . ib 

rusty black, to dip . ''. ib 

to extract grease spots from . ib 

Silk worms, to rear . . . 350 

Silks, to remove stains from . . 98 

spots of paint from . ib 

to alum . . .83 

to dye, blue . . . ib 

yellow . . .84 

red, crimson, &e. . . 85 

black . . . ib 

with Prussian blue . 87 

to precipitate acetates of lead and copper 

on . . . ib 

to dye, brown, in the small way . 88 

of fawn-coloured drabs, to dye . ib 

to dye lilac . . . ib 

flesh colour . . . ib 

to bleach . , .96 

Silver ores, to assay . . . . 8 

by cupellation . , . . ib 

in the humid way . .■ ib 

to assay the value of . ,8 

double assay of . . .9 

imitation of . . ,12 

solder for jewellers . . 13 

plating . . ib 

to separate from plated copper . 1 7 

chemical test for . . 392 

Silvering . . .11 

glass globes, liquid foil for . ib 

copper ingots . . .10 

by heat . . .17 

on gilt work, by amalgamation . ib 

in the cold way . . ib 

Silver tree, to prepare the . 1 8 

liquid, to restore rusted . . 53 

for vellum painting . . ib 

plate, to take stains out of . . 100 

to clean . . ib 

Size, isinglass, to make . . 585 

Sleep, to procure . . . 408 

Small-pox, treatment of . . 216 

vaccination . . . ib 

Smoky chimneys, to cure . . 386 

Snail water, small, to make . . 151 

S^uff, Macouba . . . 192 

cephalic . . , ib 

imitation of Spanish . . ib 

London do . . . ib 

Soap, transparent, to make . . 193 

Windsor . . . ib 

almond . . . ib 

balls, marbled . . , ib 

Naples, to imitate . . ib 

Soda water, to prepare . ,157 

Soil for a garden, to choose the best . 284 

component parts of . . Sll 

clayey, to distinguish . . ib 

to manage . . 285 

sandy, to manure . .311 

gravelly . . ,312 

use of different . . ib 

burning surface . . 322 

Mr Curwen's method . . ib 

Solder, common, to prepare . . 10 

hard . . . ib 



Solder, soft 

for steel joints 

brass, for iron 

silver, for jewellers 
plating 

gold 
Soleil, coup de 
Soups 

Flemish 

portable 

maigre 

mock turtle 

asparagus 

giblet 

white 

charitable 

veal gravy 

beef 

a poor man's 

clieap rice and meat 

another cheap 

herring 

nutritious 

transparent, for convalescents 

chowder 

mullaga-tawny 

hodge-podge 
Sow, to, seeds to advantage 
Sowing machine, description of 

wlieat, method of 

grain, by ribbing 
Spearmint water, simple 
Spectacles, use of 
Specula, or telescopes 
Spleen, enlarged 
Spinach 

Si>irituous water, rules for distilling 
Spirits, to distil, from carrots 

to dulcify 

foreign, to imitate 

spirit of malt, to make 

of wine, do 

proof 

of salt, or marine acid 

to fine 

compound . 

Sprains 
Sprats, to cure 

Spruce beer, brown and white 
S(iuills, vinegar of 
Statues, ancient, composition of 
Starch, from frosted potatoes 
Steel, to gild 

to convert into iron by cementation 

improved mode of hardening 

English cast, to prepare 

to colour blue 

to distinguish from iron 

goods, to preserve 

improved mode of hardening by hammer- 
ing 

to engrave on 
Stereotype plates, alloy for 

mode of casting 
Stews, (see Culinary Arts) 

French, of greens and bacon 
Stencilling 
Still, hot, to make a . 

large do 

operations of the 

new worm for . 
Stings and nites . 

Stomach, inflamed 

cramp in 
Stockings, silk, to clean 

to dye flesh colour 
black . 



452 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Stone ware, English, to make 


369 


Stone in the bladder . 


209 


Stoves, cracks in, to mend 


418 


Stranp;ury 


209 


Strawberry water . 


151 


jelly, to make 


184 


jam 


ib 


Alpine, to cultivate the 


305 


qualities of the 


404 


to preserve the, whole 


18- 


Straw, importance of 


344 


weight of, in different crops 


ib 


value of different kinds of 


S45 


■wheat 


ib 


oat • 


ib 


bean 


ib 


peas 


ib 


tare, or hay 


ib 


in feeding cattle with, rules 


for . ib' 


horses 


346 


sheep 


ib 


miscellaneous consumption 


Df ■ . 34- 


as applicable to litter 


346 


to thatching . 


ib 


Strictures 


?10 


Stucco, Wych's, to make 


103 


Williams's, do * . 


104 


iron, do . . 


ib 


Styes, treatment of 


235 


Sugar, use of, in brewing 


119 


to obtain from beets 


144 


maple, juice of, to extract, w 


thout injuring 


the tree 


417 


SufToeaOion, by noxious vapours 


228 


by hanging 


ib 


drowning 


ib 


Sunflower, the . 


306 


Swelling, white 


. ■ 212 


Swimming, art of . . 


259 


Swine, measles in, to cure 


275 


rupture in 


ib 


Syllabub, wliipt, to make 


182 


solid, do 


ib 


Syrup of ginger, to make . 


253 


poppies . . 


ib 


squills . 


» . ib 


violets . . 


ib 


Syphilis . . 


210 


T. 




Tanning, and the treatment of le 


ather . 2S0 


improvement in 


ib 


new process of 


281 


use of the wood and bark 


of the horse 


chesnut tree for 


232 


Tan, to, hides or skins 


, . 280 


without bark or mineral astr 


lna;ents ib 


calf or other skins 


ib 


hides 


. . ib 


new species of 


401 


Tape worm, specific for the . 


405 


Tar, oil of, to procure . 


149 


water, to prepare 


254 


Tares, to cultivate 


332 


Tarts, raspberry and cream 


iro 


paste for 


1"2 


almond . , 


. 179 


orange, to make . . 


ib 


Tartar, tincture of salt of . . 


144 


Tea, beef, to make 


254 


qualities of . . 


404 


native . . 


157 


substitutes for 


15S 


trays, to clean 


391 


Teeth, extraction of, to check he 


morrhage in 234 


diseases of the, remedies fo 


r . 235 



Teeth, preservation of the 

picking the 

loose, remedy for 

foul 

cle!\ning the 

to clean and preserve 

astringent for the 

to make the, white 

excellent opiate for the 
Telegraph, domestic, to make 
Telescopes, specula for 
Terapin* 

Testicle, diseases of 
Tetanus 

Tiiatching, straw as applicable to 
Thermometer, Fahrenheit's, to construct 

common 

to adjust the fixed points of the 
Thrasiiing machine, description of 
Throat, sore 

g-argle for . . 

])Utri(i 

inflammatory . 

strictui'es in . , 

wounds in 
Thrush in children, remedies for 

gargles for 
Tliunder, inc. . , 

Thyme, oil of, to procure 
Tic doloureux . . 

Tiffanies, to wash and stain 
Tiles, red distemper for, to make 

to preserve 
Tillage, operation of 

best mode of 

to conduct a fallow 

to prepare the ground 

two sets of ploughs required for 
Tincture of Japonica, to prepare 

salt of tartar . 

antimony , 

benzoin . 

catechu 

ginger 

guaiacum 

guaiacum, amraOiiiated 

Peruvian bark 
Hiixham's 

rhubarb 

compound 

senna 

balsam of Tola 
Tin ores, to assay 

in the humid way 

to, co[)per and brass 

iron and copper vessels 

solution oF, in aqua-regia 

muriate of, to make 

tree, to prepare the 
Tinning, Kustiiien's metal for- 
Tobacco pipes, to make 
Tomatas catsup 
Tombac, to prepare 

red . 

wiiite 
Tools, edge, from cast steel and 
Tonsils, swollen 
Tooth ache, to prevent the 
radical cure for the 

brushes, vegetable, to make 

powders 

coral, &:c. . 

remedies for the 
Tortoise shell, to weld 
Travelling, in, to escape the efl'ects of lightning 
Trees, to graft 

to plant, to advantage 



INDEX. 



Trees, to pack for exportation . 


510, 410 


foliage of, to water 


291 


planting, general mode of 


2'J'2 


more expeditious method 


ib 


forcin.y, German way 


ib 


small fruit, to plant 


293 


standard, to clothe the stems of 


ib 


orchard, to prune 


ib 


deforraed, to i-ecover 


ib 


to transplant 


291 


orchard, diseases of 


293 


fruit, to raise and manage . 


292 


to preserve from frost 


'. 294 


Russian way 


ib 


in blossom 


298 


to protect froiri insects 


294 


to propagate, Ciiinese way * 


298 


to clear from worms. Sec. 


398 


peach, to ])reserve 


4ir 


■wall, skreen for protecting 


294 


new way of 


409 


apple, old, to renovate 


298 


treatment of 


ib 


wounds in, &c. 


299 


• exhibiting the, to obtain early fruit b] 


f 298 


coft'ee, to engraft 


ib 


w all fruit, to hasten the ripening of 


ib 


composition for do 


ib 


to prevent the growth of weeds rounc 


I 299 


fruit, nails in, to avoid the effects of 


ib 


moss on, to destroy 


ib 


to protect from hares 


ib 


apple, insect;; on, to prevent the prop 


3ga- 


tion of 


ib 


canker in 


SCO 


the disease in, to cure . 


ib 


canker in 


ib 


elm, ulcers in, to cure 


ib 


orchard, to cleanse, by lime 


ib 


fruit, blight in, to cure 


ib 


mildew on, to prevent 


ib 


peach, do do 


ib 


gumming in, to prevent 


ib 


young, to pack, for exportation 


sto 


Tympany 


210 


Tumours 


2ir 


fleshy, &c. 


218 


Turkeys, qualities of 


403 


dropsy in the crops of 


2/8 


choice of 


42G 


Turner's varnish for box wood 


2fi 


cerate 


251 


Turnips, to cultivate 


■335 


to prepare the ground for . 


ib 


to sow seeds for 


ib 


cleaning process 


336 


yellow, to cultivate 


ib 


Swedish, or ruta-baga 


ib 


fly on, to destroy 


ib 


to prevent . 


ib 


to check the 


ib 


cleaning, plough for . • 


315 


to apply dung to 


318 


qualities of . . • 


404 


Turnsole, blue, for dyeing 


'J3 


Turpentine, oil of, to procure . 


149 


to rectify 


ib 


Turtle, to dress . . . 


415 


calf's head, in imitation of • 


ib 


mock . . a 


ib 


Tutania, or Britannia metal . . 


12 


German . . > 


ib 


Spanisii , , , 


ib 


- Engestroom . . . 


13 


Tutenag, to prepare . . 


10 


Types, printer's, alloy for . « 


ib 


Typhus fever . . 


200 



u. 



Ulcers 

mercurial, in the mouth . 

and pimples on the tongue 

inflamed . . 

fungous . , 

slougliing . , 

indolent . . 

carious 

poultices fer, various . 

lotions for scorlnitie . 
for scrofulous 
Umbrellas, to make pliable varnish for 

Urine, incontinence of . 

suppression of . 

difficulty of ' . . 

Usquebaugh, to make . 

Uvula, enlarged . , 



V. 

Vaccination . . 

signs of a true . . 

Varnisiies . . 

]ioppy oil, for drying , 

fat oils . . 

I'esinous drying oil . 

copa!, various colours * 
Varnish, fat copal ' , 

for plaster figures 
for watch cases, to imitate tortoise shell 
colourless copal , 

white do 
gold coloured do 
campliorated .do . 

ethereal do 

turpentine do . , 

fat amber . . 

amber with turpentine 
Shaw's mastic . . 

for electrical purposes 
fat amber, or copal 
to appl)^ it to opake enamels 
compound mastic 
camphorated do for paintings 
painter's cream . 

caoutchouc . . 

sandarac . , 

compound 

campliorated 
for cut paper works, dressing boxes, 
spirituous sandarac, for wainseotting 
for violins, 8cc. 
coloured, for violins. Sic, plum tree 

hogany, and rose wood 
fat, of a gold colour 

or golden, being a mordant to 
and dai'k colours 
Turner's, for box wood 
to, dressing boxes . 

to, glass 
gallipot 

mastic, for grinding colours 
to, harps and dulcimers 
for boots and shoes . 

lacquer, for brass 

for philosophical instruments 

gold coloured, for brass watch ca 
watch keys. See. 

of a less drying quality 

of various lints 
mordant, for gilding 
others 

composition for making coloured d 
ings and prints resemble oil paint" 
to colour baskets 
to, balloons . 

rarified air do . 



453 



220 

202 

ib 

220 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

232 

"ib 

ib 

34 

209 

ib 

ib 

145 

203 



&c.. 
&c. 



srold 



454 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



bed 



Varnish 

for coloured drawings 

for pales, and coarse wood work 

for wood, which resists the aclioii of boil 
ing water 

black, for old straw or chip hats 

to, drawings and card work 

to make sail cloth water proof 
on wood 

coloured composition for rendering 1 
and cloth water jirouf 

to tiiicken linen clotii for skreensand 
testers 

to make liquid paste with drying oil 

common wax, for cloth 

fine printed cloths, to prepare 

silk, to pvepaie 

for silks, 8cc. 

for umbrellas . . 

for Indian shields 

to, like gold, silver leaf . 

to recover 

to polisii 
- Vaimislies for engraving, (see Engraving] 
Vaults, foreign wine, to manage 
Veal, qualities of 

choice of 

savoury dish of, to make 

cake, to make ' . 

breast, glacee . . 

shoulder, en galantine 

ragout of, cold 

to carve 
Vegetable liquids, to deprive, of their col 
Vegetables, to propagate 

by seed 

by germs or bulbs 

by slips 

by division of the plant 

by runners 

by suckers . • 

by layering . 

by innarcliing . • 

by budding . . 

by shield-budding 

green, for manure, to decompose 

to protect from injuries^ by straw ropes 
by nets 
by canvass skreens 

to gatlier 

to preserve 
Veins, enlarged, spermatic 
Vellum, to make 

to convert into leather 

painting, liquid gold for 
silver 

to stain, green ' 

to restore rusted liquid siKer 

to make glaire of eggs for 

ground, to lay silver or gold upon 
Velvet, to paint on 

materials required 

subjects for painting 

appropriate colours 

compound do 

directions for painting 
Venison, qualities of 

pasty 
Ventilation of churches 

houses 
Vermin, to preserve houses from 

crops from 
Vines, to plant 

composts for 

to choose the plants 

to prune and train 
to advantage 



29,41 
39 



29 



ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

30 

30, Si 

30 

35 

ib 

ib 

it) 

17 

133 

402 

426 

165 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

420 

our 155 

286 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

287 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

323 ' 

291 

ib 

ib 

308 

ib 

211 

283 

ib 

53 

I ib 

, 94 

53 

ib 

ib 

C5 

ib 

ib 

ib 

66 

ib 

402 

415 

260 

ib 

363 

336 

296 

ib 

ib 

ib 

29r 



Vines, to destroy insects on * 
Vinegar, to make . 

common . . 

wine . . 

sugar . . 

gooseberry . . 

currant . . 

primrose . . 

raisin . . 

cider . . 

from the refuse of fruits . 
bee hives 

from orange and elder ilowers, &c. 

to strengthen 

ice, to prepare . 

quass, to make 

distilled 

improved . , 

to deprive of colour 

of squills 

aromatic 

cheap do for purifying manufactories 

balsamic and anti-putrid 
Vinous fermentation 
Vol-au-vent, to make . 

W. 

Waffles 

Dutch way 
Walks, gravel, to make 
Walls, new, to preserve from dampness 
Walnuts, to preserve 

to pickle, white 
Warts, to remove 

to treat 

venereal 
Wasps, &c., stingS of 
Watch cases, mock tortoise shell 

works, oil for 
Wash, for preserving crayon drawings 
Water colours (see Colours) 

for animals, to mix 
Water, fresh, from sea, to obtain 

sea, to render fit for washing 

common, distilled 

casks, to clean 

for brewing, to choose 

to purify, by charcoal 

to, meadows 

to i-aise, in all situations 

warm, for a carriage, or small room 

to walk on the 

to determine if hard or soft 

pipes, to manage in winter 

soda 

Water-proof, composition for making linen, &c. 
sail cloth 
linen and cloth 

boots, to prepare . 

composition for leather or cloth 
for leather, patent 
Waters, simple, rules for distilling 

stills for 

expeditious mode of distilling 

compound distilled 
Wax, painting on, Grecian method 

red sealing, to make 

black 

green . . 

blue . . 

yellow , , 

purple 

uncoloured, soft . 

coloured . . 

bordering for engravers • 

candles, to make . . 

Weeds, to destroy . . 



INDEX. 



«#»: 



Weeds, usefulness of moving . 


338 


W^ines, American honey . 


Wheat, to cultivate 


326 


cowslip, red . . . 


to preserve . . 


361 


white . . . 


metliod of sowing . 


326 


mead . . 


drilling, improved way of 


3-27 


cider, white ... 


to pickle the seed of 


ib 


red ... 


diseases of . 


328 


grape, red . . , 


blight, mildew, rust 


ib 


white . . . 


mildewed, impropriety of using 


ib 


raisin, equal to sherry . , 


to remove . . , 


ib 


another raisin and grape . . 


til prevent 


329 


claret, vine leaf . , 


smut in 


ib 


from frosted potatoes . 


Henderson's method of preventiu 


g ib 


ginger 


harvest, to manage the 


330 


koumiss, tartar . . . 


to destroy slugs upon . 


337 


rhubarb . . . 


to cut, time for 


394 


sage 


Whiskey cordial, to make 


148 


gilliflower . . . 


Whitlow, treatment of 


219 


turnip . . , 


Whites, in women . , 


243 


I'ose . . . 


While-wash, to , . 


395 


barley . , , , 


White swelling . , 


212 


iig, English . . . 


M^gs, to prepare hair for , , 


395 


sycamore . 


Windows, to keep up 


388 


balm . . , 


Wines, British, to make . 


122 


scurvy grass . . , 


gathering the fruit . 


ib 


claret, cheap and wholesome 


pickling 


ib 


.. ^'y .. 


bruising . , 


ib 


Wines, British, management of . 


vatling . . 


123 


to guard against unripe fruit 


vinous fermentation 


ib 


to keep and manage 


flavouring 


ib 


to sweeten a sour cask . . 


drawing the must 


ib 


poor, to improve 


pressing the husk , 


ib 


to impi-ove when lowering . 


casking the must . 


ib 


flat, to restore 


spirituous fermentation . 


ib 


disagreeable taste, to remove 


racking . , 


ib 


ill scent of . 


fining 


ib 


to pass white for cbampaigne , 


bottling and corking 


124 


to make it sparkle like do . 


apparatus for 


ib 


foul or ropy, to clear . , 


gooseberry, red . 


ib 


green or harsh, to correct . . 


and white . 


ib 


sharp, tart, acid 


white, or champagne 


ib 


sour . . . 


champagne, British 


ib 


to fine or clarify 


gooseberry and currant 


124, 401 


to sweeten . . . 


currant, red 


124 


to stop tiie fermentation 


white 


125 


pricked, to restore 


Dutch 


ib 


decanting . . , 


black 


ib 


Wine vaults, foreign, to manage 


mixed berries from small gardens 


ib 


wines and spirits, cellar of, to fit up . 


compound . , 


ib 


foreign, process of making 


other mixed berries 


ib 


port, to make . , 


strawberry . . 


ib 


to manage and improve 


ras])berry 


ib 


to make, French method 


mulberry . . 


ib 


foreign, to rack 


elderberry 


126 


claret, to manage 


Cyprus, imitation of 


ib 


to colour . , 


elder-flower, or Frontiniac ' 


ib 


foul, to restore . 


port, imitation of . 


ib 


and port, to make them rot 


wortle, or bilberry . 


ib 


foreign pricked, to recover 


birch . . 


ib 


Hermitage and Burgundy, to man 


blackberiy 


127 


liisbon 


spruce . . 


iu 


Bucella 


juniper berry . . 


ib 


Sherry, to improve 


damson . . 


ib 


vviiite 


cherry . • 


ib 


to improve by chalk 


morella . . 


ib 


sickj to renovate 


peach . . 


ib 


to nipllow 


and apricot 


ib 


sour, to restore, German method 


apricot • . 


128 


to concentrate, by cold . 


lemon . . 


ib 


white, to fine 


apple, white . « 


ib 


red 


red . . 


ib 


claret, to fine a hogshead of 


quince 


ib 


Siierry, to fine 


orange 


ib 


pale, to fine 


and lemon 


ib 


Madeira 


mead, white 


129 


West India, to improve 


red, or metheglia . 


ib 


'N'^idonia, to fine 


walnut 


ib 


Malmsey and other 



456 



UNIVERSAL RECEII'T BOOK. 



Wines, port, to fine • • 

finings, to make and apply 
to force down 

Avliite, to convert into red 

red into wliite 

new, to preserve against thunder 

to make it settle well 

casks, match For sweetening 

oyster powder for 

filtering bag 

to bottle 

adulterated, to detect 

alum in 

lead and copper in 

corrosive sublimate and antimony in 
detect 

oil of, to procure 
Woad for dyeing, to prepare . 
Wood, to preserve from insects 

for dyeing, to prepare . 

oii gilding on . 

to polish • . 

varnish, to make . 

to render incombustible . 

to dye various colours 

to preserve by charcoal 
Woods, medicinal decoction of the 
Wool, to fix a mineral yellow on 

to dye, Prussian blue 

permanent blue ■ 

to bleach . 

Woollens, und3'ed, to scour . 

Fuller's purifier for . 

. to dye, blue . . 

yellow . 
red, crimson, and scarlet 

to full 

to dye, black . . 

brown . . 

Wormwood, oil of, to procure 
Worms . . 208,237, 

white thead worm, or ascarides 

round woria . 

tape worm • • 



136 
ib 
Jb 
ib 
ib 

137 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 



to 



238, 
208, 



142 
91 

306 
92 
15 
31 
33 

418 
93 

405 

254 
84 

sr 

ib 

S6 

98 

101 

84 

ib 

ib 

96 

85 

ib 

149 

411 

237 

.208 

ib 



ththe 
strength of 
east and apply it to 



Worms, tape worm in children 

long round worm 

male fern . 

worm-seed • 

powder of tin . 

oil of turpentine 

essence of bergamot 

Ching's lozenges 

yellow lozenges 

brown lozenges 

petroleum, a general remedy 
Worts, to boil 

to cool 

to mix the yeast w 

to determine the 

to apportion the y 
Wounds 

incised 

punctured 

contused 

poisoned 

of the ear, &c. 

of the scalp 

of the throat 

of the ciiest 

of the belly 

of the joints 
Writing, to take out 

for the blind • 

Y. 

Yarn, to scour . . 

Yeast, to mix with worts . 

to apportion and apply it to worts 
the fermentation of, to manage 
to preserve • • 

nine substitutes for 
to restore bad 

Yellow, or West India fever 



Zaffre, to prepare 
Zinc ores 

in the humid way 



237 

238 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

238 

ib 

ib 

411 

108 

ib 

ib 

107 

108 

221 

ih 

222 

ib 

ib 

223 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

101 

388 



108 
ib 
ib 

119 
ib 
ib 

199 



69 
6 
lb 



THE END 



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